US3161A - And david x h hummer - Google Patents

Description

(EYRUSiMOREY ANDDAVIDHUMME'R, OIP"MGARTHURSTOWN OHIO.

"EAILOfRtS MEASURE.

"ipeccationf ofiIzettersfPatent No.13,161;datdfJuIyiS1843.

To all whom "concern Be it known that wefGrRUsf-Monnywand 'Dayan zIaIUMMEn,` of f fMcArth-urstown, inl the county ot'Athensand State of @hiowhave invented la anew-aand useful r Improvement: in the 'Mode `of'` Cutting* Clothes for 'Male @and fFema'lef Dresses byi theiUses f thel"Scalerand` 11 Protractor on *a #New :Principle and iwe' do 4hereby declare thati the C following wis fra full anld exact description.

First `procure a thinepiece of brass, iron, wood ycripasteboard inF the form of a square, the `broad Apart i2?, 1.inches wide and eight inches long, on the inside of which; -isulaid ott the protractor, hereinafter described; the

tongue of the square will `be lone sfoot in length, andmust be laid off in inches and quarters the same manner that a carpenters or masons square is laid off; so far the instrument is properly a joiners square, and will be used for marking right angles on the cloth to be cut. Next proceed to construct the protractor for taking angles, which will be done in the following manner: In the center of the broad end of the square, that is four inches from the end, let a line be cut or drawn at right angles cross the blade of the square, this will be known as the center, and the divisions will be right and left from this center line, and all the subdivisions on the blade will be on the inside of the blade and will be engraved or marked a small way back from the edge, after the manner of a common rule.

To construct the subdivisions on the protractor the following distances must be observed, taken from Gunthers scale of equal parts, to wit:` From the center line, toward the tongue or right hand end of the protractor, lay off a division, distant from the center line twenty four `hundredths of an inch by Gunther, this you mark No. 6; then from the center line lay off another division to the right, distant one inch, and thirteen hundredths, this mark No. 7, from the center line lay off a third division to the right, distant two inches and forty eight hundredths, this mark No. 9; now lay oi' a division t0 the left of the centerline, distant thirteen hundredths of an inch, this mark No. 5; then lay oit a division to lett as before distant from the center thirty six hundredths of an inch, this mark No. 4; again lay 0E on same side a division, distant from `the center seventy three hundredths of an inch, this mark 'No yandflay offra` division on the same side, rdistantntrom the center l inch and 33 hundredths,'No. 2; again lay cita division on: the same sifde distantfrom the center, one l winch f and eighty six hundredths, this 1 mark B3 hundredths, No.2 again `lay off a division distantfrom the center, two ainches, and =seventy `seven fhundredths, this `you `will mark No. l2 and and the protractcris com- ;plete, 'will easily beunderstoodby a reference to the accompanying drawing.

. To f construct .ua f Ascale measure, 1` as representeduat M,.Fi'gure"1, take a stripfot paper onenfourth the length of a strap, thatwwill reach round ithe breast of the .person measured; this is thewbase orscale `ot' measure for all garments made to t that person, eX- cept when an unnatural form is presented, for example: Suppose the present measure of the subject to be forty inches, in that case your strip of measuring paper will be ten inches long, fold this paper down in the center, and mark at the fold 7-then fold the scale into three equal parts, and mark at each fold the No. 6, and 8, in their proper order; fold the scale again in two equal parts from O, to 6, and at the fold mark No. 4; fold again from 0 to 4L in two equal parts, and at the fold mark No. 2; fold again in two equal parts from 0 to 2, and at the fold mark No. l; then fold in two equal parts, from 2 to 4, and at the fold mark No. 3; fold again in two equal parts from 4 to 6, and at the told mark No. 5; fold again in two equal parts from 8 to 9, and at the fold mark No. l0, and you have all the scale necessary to cut a garment suitable for a subjectwhose breast measure is 40 inches.

from the protractor by figures, this should i be kept in mind to prevent confusion.

In the drawing, the first line in No. l, marked A is the length of the garment from the collar down the center of the back, to the waist; B, is the line by which the cloth is cut down to the waist, and 5, is the angle of the waist as taken by the protractor, The

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waist-sweep is taken by length of the line B in the usual manner. The line D, No. l is obtained by dropping a line from the point of the sleeve seam A ,on the shoulder-blade perpendicular tothe line A, until it intersects the line B; at the point of intersection, place the center of the protractor, and take the angles 5 and 6. Line F is drawn perpendicular to, and at the end of line B, and from the scale M of measure, is in length, 4f. To strike the curve or sweep line E, you take the length of line C, which on the drawing is marked 9 less 5 (which means the distance on the scale from 9 to 5) and with it strike the sweep line C, pursuing this method throughout all parts of the garment and you will have a perfect fit, where the subject possesses natural proportions, where an unusual form is presented, the workman must of necessity make such change as his judgment may dictate.

By following the example abo-ve, and properly noting the angles, and measures, of every part of the garment as laid down in the chart no difficulty can eXist in fully understanding the descriptions above.

Vhat We claim as our invention, and dei sire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. The graduated scale of measure whereby the measure of each subject is made the base of a scale, which of itself answers for every part of the garment, more simple, and easier to be understood as one scale with 12 sizes will answer for cutting an entire suit, whereas with the usual scales not less than forty or fifty sizes, and at least three different scales are used for every possible difference in measure.

2. We also claim as our invention, and for which we desire to secure Letters Patent, the plane protractor attached to the square, instead of the semi-circular, and the mode of projecting the divisions, from the center, by inches and tenths or hundredths, from the scale of equal parts, to produce the desired effect and a proper adjustment of every portion of the garment.

CYRUS MOREY. DAVID HUMMER. Witnesses:

A. VAN Vonrrns, H. COLE.

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