US3048864A - Vamp crimper - Google Patents

Abstract

945,848. Shaping uppers. GEO. KNIGHT & CO. Inc. Dec. 1, 1961 [Jan. 3, 1961], No. 43037/61. Heading A3B. A method of crimping a vamp 82 of a shoe upper comprises clamping the vamp 82 and an underlying protective cover 84, 86 centrally along a line while the edges of the vamp remain unsupported then simultaneously and progressively stretching the vamp 82 along lines on both sides and substantially parallel to the line of clamping. In the construction shown two identical jaw assemblies are carried by horizontal arms 20. An assembly comprises a wooden block 28 mounted between two frame members 24, 26 and resiliently mounted on springs 38 and a horizontal shaft 30, a heater 32 and shaped crimping jaw 34. The distance between the jaws 34 may be adjusted by nuts 46, locking device 48, and rotating cam 40 which also serves to vary the tension of springs 38. A blade 52 is mounted for vertical movement e.g. by pneumatic means above the gap between jaws 34. The shaped clamping edge 54 of blade 52 cooperates with a resiliently mounted clamping shoe 56 pivotally mounted on a support 58 to grip vamp 82 and protective cover 84, 86. The protective cover comprises a layer of leather 86 and a convenient number of rubber layers 84. Downward movement of blade 52 stretches vamp 82 over jaws 34, heat being then applied to the stretched vamp 82. Blade 52 and jaws 34 may have complementary recesses 37, 35 respectively to accommodate thicker parts of a vamp e.g. a vamp with a counter or lining attached. The upper end 57 of recess 55, at the maximum depression of blade 52, lies substantially in the plane of the top edge 36 of jaws 34.

Description

ug. 14, i962 R. K. BROADBENT 3,048,864

VAMP CRIMPER Filed Jan. 5, 1961 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Inven'orf ug- 14, 1962 R. K. BROADBENT 3,048,864

VAMP CRIMPER Filed Jan. 5, 1961 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Iawezzo: Roerifafoadeaa,

Aug. 14, 1962 R. K. BROADBENT 3,048,864

VAMP CRIMPER Filed Jan. 3, 1961 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Aug. 14, 1962 R, K. BROADBENT 3,048,864

VAMP CRIMPER Filed Jan. 5, 1961 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 United States Patent C Massachusetts Filed Jan. 3, 1961, Ser. No. 80,113 Claims. (Cl. i12-54.4)

This invention relates to improvements in shoe machinery, and more particularly to improvements in machinery for crimping an upper, or vamp, preparatory to lasting.

For many years it has been recognized that if the piece of leather which is to be the upper, or vamp, of a shoe is stretched in a particular manner (or crimped, as it is called in the trade) it is more easily fitted to the last and also produces a more attractive shoe. This crimping results in the sides of the vamp being progressively stretched toward the edges thereof, hence providing a fullness in the vamp tending to force the sides of the Vamp downwardly with the longitudinal center line assuming a concave upwardly position.

Vamp crimpers built under the teachings of the prior art suffered from several serious defects, however. One such defect is that the center line of the vamp, which is not stretched in the crimping process, tends to buckle or ride up on itself during the stretching of the side portions. This results from the natural tendency of the leather to squeeze together at those portions of itself which are structurally opposed to the areas being stretched. As it is common to crimp the vamp by forcing it between curved jaws by means of a blade engaging the vamp along its center line, the center line is the portion of the vamp which tends to buckle and ride up on itself. Where this occurs a very unsightly series of wrinkles are the usual result.

yAnother defect in vamp crimpers heretofore made has been their inability to receive more than one thickness of leather without harming the thickened portion. This has meant that the vamp per se had to be crimped before the usual lining and other related parts of the upper could be attached to the Vamp. This sequence of operations makes the attachment of the other parts to the vamp more difficult, as it is necessary to attach them to curved surfaces rather than to a flat piece of leather.

Accordingly, one object of my invention is to provide a vamp crimper which properly stretches the vamp without producing wrinkles caused by buckling or riding up along the center line.

Another object of my invention is to provide a vamp crimper which will crimp a vamp which has other upper portions and lining material attached thereto, such as a tip, a moccasin seam, a decorative effect added to or overlying the toe portion, a saddle, a tongue lining or portions of the quarters or lace stays added to or overlying the Ivamp portion over the instep.

In the practice of my invention, in a preferred embodiment thereof, I utilize a vamp crimper made along the usual lines of construction. Such device comprises a pair of laterally adjustable heated jaws mounted on a base with a crimping blade disposed over and between the jaws for downward travel therebetween. The blade is provided with a special edge for engaging the leather vamp. The blade edge is constructed with a thicker segment in the middle and with thinner segments toward the ends. This construction permits the jaws to receive a vamp with the other attached elements. The blade, being thinner toward its ends, forms pockets in cooperation with the jaws which permit the presence of the additional thicknesses of material without adversely affecting the crimping operation. Additionally, I have found it desirable to LCC provide cooperating pockets in the jaws when crimping is to be done on shoe portions having parts of even greater thickness, as, for example, a full fitted blucher upper after lacing or an upper which includes a metal buckle. The pockets may be provided at both the back and front of the jaws to cope with particular types of work.

Disposed between the jaws and in the line of vertical travel of the blade, I employ a resiliently mounted clamping shoe. The clamping shoe gives substantial resistance to the downward travel of the blade between the jaws. This results in the center line of the Vamp, which is engaged by the blade, being very firmly clamped to the shoe with the result that no buckling or riding up of the leather along the centerline thereof occurs.

These and other objects and features of my invention will appear as the description proceeds with the aid of the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a front elevation of my invention showing the positions of the blade, vamp and clamping shoe prior to actuation of the apparatus;

FIG. 2 is a vertical section taken along the line 2 2 of FIG. l;

FIG. 3 is a front elevation in partial cross-section along the line 3 3 of FIG. 2 showing the blade, vamp and clamping shoe in crimping position;

FIG. 4 is a plan view of a vamp prior to stretching showing the approximate areas where stretching occurs;

FIG. 5 is a side elevation of a vamp after stretching;

FIG. 6 is a section taken on the line 6 6 of FIG. 5;

FIG. 7 is a section taken on the line 7 7 of FIG. 5;

FIG. 8 is a view in perspective showing the blade, jaws and part of a vamp prior to stretching, the vamp having a =set of longitudinal reference lines;

FIG. 9 is a partially cut-away side viewA showing the i vamp in FIG. 8 in fully depressed position between the jaws; and

FIG. l0 is a fragmentary portion of FIG. 1 showing in addition means for actuating the blade.

Having reference to the drawings for a more particular description, I mount two opposed jaw assemblies on horizontal arm segments 20 carried by a suitable standard (not shown). The jaw assemblies are identical in construction, and each comprises a metal base 22 having two upstanding frame members 24, 26. The upper portions of the frame members 24, 26 are rounded from front to rear to provide a smooth surface having no sharp edges. Between the frame members 24, 26 a wooden block 28 is positioned dimensioned slightly larger than the frame members 24, 26 to provide supporting surfaces for'the laterally extending parts of the vamp.

Slidably mounted through the frame members 24, 26 and block 28 is a horizontal shaft 30. Attached to the inner portion of the shaft 30 is an electrically actuated heater '32 having substantially the ysame dimensions as the frame members 24, 26. Each heater 32 abuts and heats its respective crimping jaw 34 which is secured to the inner end of shaft 30. Each crimping jaw 34 is a steel plate having a rounded top edge 36 over which the leather is drawn during operation of the apparatus. Each crimping jaw 34 extends somewhat beyond the heater 32 on all sides. It is to be noted that the heater 32 and associated crimping jaw 34 are Slidably mounted relative to the base 22 of the jaw assembly whereby the opposed crimping jaw 34 may be moved apart or together by proper movement of the horizontal shafts 30.

The two crimping jaws preferably include oppositely disposed matching pockets 35, which are areas cut away on the facing sides of the jaws to provide room to receive thickened parts of the upper adjacent the part being crimped during the crimping operation. Pockets 35, if

used, cooperate with corresponding pockets in the crimping blade, which will be described hereinafter.

In order that the jaws 34 may function most eiciently, a .set of coiled springs 38 are mounted parallel to the horizontal shaft 30, abutting the heater casing 32 at one end and the outer frame member 24 at the other end. The springs pass through aligned openings formed in the inner frame member 26 and block 28. In practice, six springs 3S are employed for each jaw 34,-and they are positioned under compression to urge the heaters 32 and associated jaws 34 toward each other.

The force exerted by the springs 38 may be controlled by means of a cam member 40v which is rotatably mounted on the horizontal shaft 30 exterior of the outer frame member 24. A pin 42 is positioned on the outer face of the outer frame member 24 and engages an inclined annular cam face 44 on the cam member 40'. The cam member 40 is held against the outer face of the frame member 24, and simultaneously means for gross adjustment of the spacing of the jaws 34 is provided by a threaded adjusting nut 46 which engages the threaded exterior end of the horizontal shaft 30. A lock nut assembly indicated generally at 48 and provided with a handle 50 is employed to lock the adjusting nut 46 when proper relative spacing of the jaws 34 is achieved. Adjustment of the cam members V4t) may be made to vary the force required to spread the jaws 34.

Positioned directly above the opening between the jaws 34 is a crimping blade 52. The blade S2 is movable vertically to descend between the jaws 34 by means of a suitable pneu-.rnatic or hydraulic cylinder assembly shown in FIG. in which the cylinder 51 has a piston and piston rod 53 connected to the blade 52. The piston moves up or down in conventional manner under the control of the operator as fluid is introduced to the upper or lower ends of the cylinder through appropriate supply pipes.

Other conventional means for actuating the blade 52 through its up and down movement may be used. For example, according to the prior art, the blade may be supported and actuated in its vertical movement by a rearwardly extending and pivoted arm of such length that the movement of the blade follows substantially a straight line as the crimping operation is performed.

The blade 52 is of slightly less longitudinal dimension than the jaws 34 and has a concave engagement face 54 which is dimensioned to correspond with the convex configuration of the crimping jaws 34. The engagement face 54 is rounded to prevent damage to the upper during crimping.

'Ihe blade 52, which is preferably about 5%; inch thick, is further provided with pockets or indentations S5 formed by partially cutting away the ends thereof on both sides whereby the pockets of the end sections are reduced to a thickness of `about 1A inch. The blade pockets are located so as to cooperate with the jaw pockets 35 to provide extra space for thickened upper parts. The thinning of the blade 52 at its ends at 55 is carried upward from the engagement face 54 to a line 57 which is close to the top faces 36 of the jaws 34 when the blade 52 is at the bottom of its travel between the jaws 34 (see FIGS. 5 and 9). By this novel expedient of thinning the ends of the blade 52 with respect to the center section and the use of the jaw pockets 35, it is possible to use my vamp crimper for the crimping of uppers which already have the lining and other portions of the upper sewn in place. This result is due to the fact that such other parts are located toward the toe and instepto make the upper thicker toward its ends. Since during the crimping operation the upperis positioned longitudinally with respect to the jaws 34, the thinning of the blade 52 and the provision of the jaw pockets '35 permit the added thickness of upper material to move into position between the jaws 34 without harm, while simultaneously the proper stretching force is applied by the thicker mid-portion 54 of blade 52 to the mid-section of the vamp.

In the preferred form of blade used in crimping mens shoes, the horizontal dimension of the blade between the pockets 55 is about 2% to 3 inches. This is suicient to stretch the vamp properly over that area running from the rear of the toes to the instep.

Although the configuration of the blade 52 of my invention permits the crimping of uppers ready for lasting, an operation not practically possible under the teachings of the prior art, it should be noted that I also provide means for preventing the upper from buckling or Wrinkling along the longitudinal center line of the vamp, thereby eliminating a defect often produced by prior art vamp crimpers.

In order to prevent such buckling of the upper, I provide a clamping shoe 56 located between the jaws 34. The clamping shoe 56 is provided with an engagement face 59 which is convex in shape and is dimensioned to correspond with the concave face 54 of the blade 52. It is to be noted that the clamping shoe 56 extends longitudinally between the jaws 34 less than the full length of the blade 52 but more than the length of the center section S4 alone.

The clamping shoe 56 is positioned between the jaws 34 on a vertically movable support memlber S8 which has a rounded upper end 60 which iits into a suitable opening indicated generally at 62 in the bottom of the clamping shoe 56. The clamping shoe 56 and slidable support member 58 are joined by a horizontal pin 64. By providing the opening 62 in the clamping shoe S6 slightly larger than the upper end of support member 58, the clamping shoe 56 is enabled to move slightly relative to the support member 5S to more easily adjust to slight diiterences in positioning of the upper in the apparatus.

The slidable support member 58 has a laterally extending boss 63 into which is screwed the threaded upper end of piston rod 66 which extends vertically from a piston in a suitable pneumatic cylinder 63 carried by bracket 7b positioned beneath the horizontal arm segments 20. If desired, a strong compression spring might be substituted for the pneumatic cylinder 68 to urge the clamping shoe upwardly as required. The bracket 70 is attached to the horizontal arm segments 20 by suitable bolts 72. The support member 58 is held in proper operating position by vertical guide members 74, 76 which are attached to the bracket 70. The guide member 74 is grooved to receive the support member 58, and the guide member 76 is provided with a gib 78 which is .grooved to receive the support member 58. Adjustment screws 80 are provided for the proper positioning of the gib 7S.

The operation of my apparatus is as follows: ning with the blade S2 in its uppermost position, supplied through under suiiicient the downward Beginair is pipe 8,1 to the pneumatic cylinder 68 pressure to create `adequate resistance to movement of the clamping shoe 56. In practice, i-t has been found that with a one-square-inch piston eighty pounds per square inch is a suitable pressure for proper operation. As above noted, the same effect may be obtained by spring means, the upper end of which would engage the member 58 with the lower end supported by the bottom of bracket 70. It is to be noted, as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, that the clamping shoe 56 is normally positioned slightly above the jaws 34.

The leather upper or vamp to be crimped is then positioned on top of the jaws 34 with its longitudinal center line positioned above the clamping shoe 56. FIG. 4 shows a plan View of such a vamp, the shaded areas showing the pytrarn-idally shaped areas in which stretching is desired. Since the leather is usually quite thin, especially in the making of higher quality shoes, and since the movement of the leather over the jaws 34 would tend lto harm its finish, it is customary in the art to employ a resilient leather boot, on top 0f which the Vamp is placed. The boot consist-s of a sheet of %4 inch thick chrome tanned soft upper leather which rests directly against the jaws 34. I have found that best re- 'sults are achieved where uppers of tine leather are to be stretched if in addition to the boot one to three sheets of extremely resilient pure gum live rubber j/16 inch thick are placed between the upper and the boot in a sandwiched relation. FIG. 3 -shows the arrangement for crimping an upper 82 of medium thickness through the use of two sheets of rubber 84 and a boot S6. It the upper to be crimped is of thin leather, then an extra sheet 84 of the pure gum live rubber should be added. if the upper is of thicker leather, then one of the sheets S4 is preferably removed. Thus the novel boot herein disclosed makes it possible, by varying the number of rubber sheets, to crimp with equal success uppers of varying thickness.

ln operation, the blade 52 is brought down to engage the upper, rubber and boot sandwich. The blade 52 engages the upper and presses the several layers against the clamping shoe 56. As there is a resistance of eighty pounds provided by the clamping shoe 56, a iirm engagement is produced. The blade 52 is forced down between the jaws 34 to the desired depth, as shown in FlG. 3, by overcoming the pneumatic or spring resistance of the clamping shoe 56. This causes the upper 82 and the sheets Se and 86 to be progressively drawn downward over the top convex edges of the jaws 34 while at the same time being held smoothly between the blade 52 and the jaws 34. This action crimps or stretches the u-pper progressively toward the sides thereof.

The stretching of the upper or vamp is shown diagrammatically in FIGS. 8 and 9. HG. 8 shows a fragment of an upper 82. resting on the jaws 34 with the blade 52 in position above them. For clarity in these figures, the boot has been omitted. In practice, the boot is always used. A series of equal longitudinal lines A-A, B-B, C-C', D-D and E-E are shown in which the line A-A is the longitudinal center line of the upper. A2, B2, C2, D2 and E2 represent the mid-points of the several lines. The lines A-A also represents the narrow longitudinal area alongwhich the upper 82 is firmly clamped between the blade 52 and the clamping shoe 56. FlG. 9, in which the near jaw 34 has been removed, shows what happens to the upper when the blade 52 has been forced down between the jaws 34, driving the shoe 56 downwardly and dragging the leather over the convex jaws.

It will now be apparent to one skilled in the art that as the upper is drawn over and between the jaws and is prevented from buckling along its center line by clamping shoe 56 and from buckling along its sides by the pressure of jaws 34, the leather must stretch progressively as it descends. FIG. 9 shows this stretching in the area above the clamping shoe 56, where it is most pronounced. The line A-A in FIG. 9 is the same length that it was at the start in FIG. 8, as this area of the upper is held iirrnly between the blade 52 and the clamping shoe 56. The line B-B, which was originally the same length as the line A-A' in FIG. 8, is now slightly longer in FIG. 9. Similarly, the distances along lines CC, D-D and E-E, originally equal in FIG. 8, have progressively increased, as in FIG. 9, as the leather has been stretched.

While the blade 52 is in lowermost position, as shown in FIGS. 3 and 9, the heat radiated from the heater 32 through the jaws 34 causes the leather to set in its stretched or crimped form. When the blade SZ is withdrawn upwardly, the clamping shoe 56 simultaneously returns to its uppermost position, ejecting the stretched or crimped upper and the underlying protective sheets. The upper, after being stretched in this manner, is in proper shape for easier lasting, as is shown in FIGS. S, 6 and 7. The apparatus is then ready for another operating cycle.

It is my intention to claim all modifications and changes of the preferred embodiment of my invention herein chosen for purposes of disclosure which do not constitute departures from the spirit and scope of the invention.

I claim:

l. A vamp crimper comprising a pair of spaced jaws in the form of parallel plates having convex curved upper edges, a depressible clamping shoe between said plates having a convex curved upper edge which is normally positioned above the said jaws, a crimping blade positioned above said jaws and clamping shoe, said blade having a concave curved lower edge of substantially the same curvature as the upper convex curved edge of said clamping shoe, means for causing the descent of said crimping blade to iirst clamp a shoe upper and underlying boot between said blade and said clamping shoe and thereafter for causing further downward movement of said clamping shoe, shoe upper, boot and blade between said jaws, whereby the leather of said shoe upper as it is dragged downwardly by the blade along with said boot over the curved upper edges of said jaws to a vertical position between said blade and jaws is progressively and symmetrically stretched in a direction parallel to the line of clamping of said shoe upper between said blade and clamping shoe.

2. A vamp crimping machine comprising a pair of spaced jaws having their opposed faces parallel, the upper edges of said jaws being convex and parallel, a clamping shoe between said jaws, said clamping shoe supported by resilient means permitting said clamping shoe to be depressed between said jaws, the upper edge of said clamping shoe being convex and normally above the upper edges of said jaws, a crimping blade located above said clamping shoe and parallel to said jaws, the bottom edge of said blade being concave and of substantially the same curvature as the upper edge of said clamping shoe, means for causing the descent of said blade toward said clamping shoe whereby a sheet of material to be stretched and an underlying boot may be iirst clamped between said clamping shoe and blade, and thereafter for causing further downward movement of said blade whereby the material and boot will then be drawn downwardly over the curved upper edges of said jaws to a flat position between said jaws, thereby to longitudinally stretch the said sheet of material on both sides of the line of clamping between said clamping shoe and said blade.

3. A machine for stretching a stretchable sheet of material on both sides of a selected line, said machine comprising a pair of jaws in the form of a pair of spaced vertical plates with their facing sides parallel, the upper edges of said jaws being identically curved convexly, spring means permitting said plates to spread apart upon the application of su'icient spreading force, a clamping shoe positioned between said jaws, said clamping shoe being of less longitudinal dimension than said jaws, the upper edge of said clamping shoe being convex and of substantially the same curvature as the curvature of the top edges of said jaws, the upper edge of said clampingr shoe normally being positioned above the upper edges of said jaws, resilient supporting means for said clamping shoe whereby said clamping shoe may -be forced downwardly between said jaws, a crimping blade located above said clamping jaws and of less thickness than the space between said jaws, said blade being longer than said clamping shoe and having a concave lower edge of the same curvature as said clamping shoe, the lower end portions of said blade being of reduced thickness as compared with the thickness of that portion of said blade immediately above said clamping shoe, and means for causing controlled downward movement of said blade, whereby when a shoe upper is placed on said clamping shoe said blade may be caused to descend to clamp said upper between said shoe and blade, and upon further downward movement of said blade and clamping shoe with the shoe upper clamped therebetween the said upper will be progressively dragged over the convex upper edges of said jaws and progressively stretched in a longitudinal direction, the said portions of said blade that are of reduced thickness, when moved down to a position between said jaws, providing space between said jaws and blade for thicker portions of said shoe upper.

4. Apparatus for crimping a shoe upper comprising a base, a pair of heated opposed jaws each having a substantially convex top face mounted on said base, a convex clamping shoe, resilient means normally supporting said clamping shoe between said jaws at a position slightly higher than the top of said jaws, a vertically movable blade positioned over said clamping shoe and dimensioned to t between said jars, a substantially concave Contact edge on said blade of the same curvature las said jaws and said clamping shoe, and means for moving said blade downwardly to cause said blade to engage a leather upper placed over the said convex top faces of said jaws and to clamp said leather against said shoe, said last mentioned means thereafter arranged to move said blade, leather and shoe downwardly between said jaws stretching said leather upper on both sides of the line of clamping between said blade and shoe.

5. Apparatus as defined in claim 4, said jaws having op positely disposed pockets vertically aligned with the end of said blade.

6. Vamp crimping apparatus comprising a base, a blade mounted on said base for up and down travel relative thereto, a concave lower edge on said blade having a center section thicker than the end sections thereof, a pair of opposed crimping jaws disposed below said blade positioned to allow said blade to pass veitically between them, means lfor heating said jaws, convex top surfaces on said jaws of the same curvature as said blade, a clamping shoe having a convex -top surface of the saine curvature as the lower edge of said blade, said shoe positioned between said jaws in the line of travel of said blade, resilient supporting means positioningsaid clamping shoe top surface normally slightly above the said top faces of said jaws, and means for driving said blade downwardly between said jaws whereby an upper positioned on top of said jaws is engaged by said blade and carried downwardly thereby being progressively stretched as i-t passes over the edge of said jaws, and beingheld in rm engagement with said blade by the upward pressure exerted by said clamping shoe thereby preventing said upper from buckling along the .line of contact with said blade.

7. In a vamp crimper, a blade including a lower engagement edge having a substantially concave configuration, a center segment of said blade thicker than the thinner end segments thereof, said thinner segments of said blade adapted to receive thicker portions of said vamp.

8. A crimping blade for use in a vamp crimper having oppositely disposed jaws, said blade comprising `a vertically disposed rigid sheet of metal about 3A; inch thick, the lower edge of said blade being concave downwardly, the two lower ends of said blade being of reduced thickness in the order of abou 1A inch to leave a center section about 3 inches long of unreduced thickness at the bottom of said blade, the vertical dimension of the areas of reduced thickness being at least substantially equal to the distance said blade is to descend between the said jaws.

9. A vamp crimper comprising a pair of spaced jaws separable under pressure, a crimping blade Valigned with a resiliently mounted clamping shoe which is positioned between said jaws, the bottom of said blade being concave and the tops of said jaws and shoe being convex, said blade having substantially the same curvature as the tops of said jaws and shoe, and means for first moving said blade toward said shoe to clamp a piece of leather therebetween and for thereafter moving said blade, shoe and leather clamped therebetween to a position between said jaws, said jaws maintaining sufficient pressure on the leather against the faces of said blade to stretch said leather smoothly and progressively as it is dragged over the tops of said jaws.

l0. A vamp crimping machine comprising a pair of spaced jaws, a resiliently mounted clamping shoe between said jaws, a crimping blade located above said shoe, and means for moving said blade downwardly to clamp material between said blade and shoe, and for thereafter moving said material and shoe downwardly between said jaws, one end of said blade being of reduced thickness and said jaws 4having oppositely facing pockets vertically aligned with the reduced thickness portion of said blade.

References Cited in the tile of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 5,412 White Jan. l2, 1848 27,561 Nolen et al Mar. 20, 1860 276,408 Holmes Apr. 24, 1883

Images