US2639434A - Collar and like garment parts - Google Patents

Description

B. LIEBowrrz COLLAR AND LIKE GRMENT PARTS May 26, 1953 4 Sheets-Sheet l Filed July 21. 1950 TT/P/VEVS B. LIEBOWITZ COLLAR AND LIKE GARMENT PARTS May 26, 1953 4; Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed July 21', 195o INVENToR. 55m/Aww Z/[on//TZ 4 lSheets-Sheet 5 yMay 26, 1953 Filed July 21, 195o May 26, 1953 B. LIEBown-z COLLAR AND LIKE GARMENT PARTS 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed July 2l, 1950 INVEN TOR.

BY Wl- Arrow/5K5 Patented May 26, 1953 COLLAR AND LIKE GARMENT PARTS Benjamin Liebowitz, Lewisboro, N. Y., assigner to Trubenizing Process Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application July 21, 1950, Serial No. 175,269

This invention relates to collars and like garment parts. It vrelates particularly to collars 'for mens and boys shirts; and is a continuation-inpart of inventions disclosed in my application SerialNo. 79,757, filed March 5, 1949 (now abandoned) and in my application Serial No. 153,050, led March 31, 1950.

'As such collars are conventionally produced today, they almost invariably consist of two parts, viz., collar-top or cape portion and the collarband portion, each of which comprises threeplies of fabric. Where these two parts are joined along the collarbanding seam there are nine `plies of fabric which require fairly heavy tensions'in sewing. The result is a structure which not merely tends to shrink unduly but, also toshrink' unpredictably. Thus, for example, there is usually a very substantial difference between such-collars when hand-laundered on the one hand. and when commercially laundered :on the other. This difculty can be overcome by cutting the cape and band portions in one piece instead of "in two pieces. This, however, introduces two problems. One is the greater difficulty of manufacture, and the second is the problem of determining the foldline (collars for so-called sport shirts are not included in this discussion; they are usually made one-piece but large manufacturing tolerances are permitted and moreover they do not demand a predetermined foldline) A This invention concerns the latter, i. e., the matter of the foldline, with particular reference to so-called fused collars.

, Such collars usually are `made of three plies which will becalled herein the face ply, lthe lining ply and the back. ply. The lining plybears the adhesive material in the ilorm of yarns soluble in certain organic solvents or in the form of a coating. Io form a foldline in such fused co1*- lars, it has heretofore been proposed to place a resist or alternatively a thin strip of tissue on ,the side of the lining facing the back ply, along a narrow zone which will prevent adhesion between the back ply and the lining along that zone, thereby creating a zone of greater flexibility than the rest of the collar, along which the collar will naturally fold because of that greater flexibility, all as disclosed in my Patent No. 2,118,407. This invention relates to a foldline produced in `that manner, i. e., by means of a resist or tissue, and has for its object ease of manufacture and the production of an improved foldline, and has other objectivesy that will hereinafter appear.

' When a foldline is produced merely by means of resist or tissue, as in Patent No. 2,118,407, the collar may be more msy than is desired. To

zrclaims. (c1. 2-131) 2 overcome this, extra stiffening in the band portion adjacent the foldline is highly desirable.v Furthermore, a foldline produced by resisty ori tissue alone tends to hug the neck too closely with the result that it soils more readily than in the case of conventional collars. I overcome this tendency at least to a substantial degree not only by the extra stiffening inthe lband `but also by so producing the foldline that it has something of a `roll.

When a resist or tissue is applied directly onto an adhesive-bearing lining fabric cut to the shape of a collar ply, as disclosed in Patent No. 2,118,407, there is considerable loss of production time not only because of the method by which the resist or tissue must be 'applied in order to be accurately located, but also because of the drying time necessary for such application. One of the primary objectsfof this invention is to overcome this pro` duction delay by applying the resist or weaving the tissue along one edge of a tape, which in turn is subsequently located with desired precision on the lining ply. Where resist is used it can be applied to a tape in a continuous manner by passing the edge of the tape continuously overfa roll or between rolls wetted `with the resist'material; drying can be done also more or less automatil cally by passing the tape through a drying oven before it emerges into the atmosphere. Or instead of resist a thin tissue can .be incorporated in the tape in the Weaving process. In any event, the operation :of applying resist or -integrallyv weaving a tissue alongan edge of a tape is Very fast compared with applying the resist along an accurately located-predetermined zone on a lining. By 'methods described in my application Serial No. 79,758, filed March 5*, 1949, for Method and Apparatus for Making Collars sor the Like, I have shown how the tape can-be applied to the lining in a Very rapid and highly accurate manner. All told, then, the use of a tape with resist vapplied. or tissue woven along one edge provides not only a better collar but a collar which can be produced more speedily and hence more economically.

The tissue referred to in Patent No. 2,118,407 is theredescribed as. made of cellophane or similar thin material whereas in this present invention I use a woven tissue which is preferably integrally woven in artape. In this connection, when a woven tissue is thus used for the purpose here intended, its weave preferably is substantially rnore flexible than the fabric of theback ply of the collar so that the foldline zone not only shall be more flexible `than rthe collarband but also vmore exible than the portion of the collartop adjacent to the foldline zone in the case of that embodiment of my invention wherein the tissue that is integrally woven with the tape v is used without added resist to prevent its adhesion to the collar lining. I have found that a woven tissue can be produced suiiiciently thin and exible for the purposes here intended by using fewer and lighter warp yarn in said tissue Zone, and| in particular by using rayon warpfya-rn, e. g., Bemberg, in said zone. lected warp yarns and spacing thereof in said tissue zone, the weft yarns can. be .the sameasin the body portion of the tape Without und'uly impairing the liexibility of said, tissue zone. such case the tissue zone can bereadily wovenintegrally with the body portion of said tape. On the other hand, the tissue. portiony canv be woven separately with lighter weft yarns and subsequently attached to the body portion' oii the tape, e. g. by stitching, but this procedure is much less convenientand economical. thanI weaving' both portion-s ofI the tape integrally with each. other.

The net effect of using the ioldlineeiorming means of this invention is to produce a softening effect. on the foldline zone of. the collar and a stiiiening. eiiect on `the collarband in the zone adjacent the folelliney zone. It is a charactern istie of this invention thaty these. dual eigectsz-are achieved by unitary means independent oi'. the lining.

This invention will be better understood by reference to the drawings in which,

Fig'. 1 is a` plan view of a one-piece collar embody-ing one. form of this invention with the colIar unfolded andv with a portion of' the: face piy and the lining p'ly broken away;

Fig; 2 is a cross-section on the line, 2-2 of Fig; 1;

Fig; 3` isi the same? asv Fig. 2 but with the ccliar folded' down;

Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic showing ofV a tape which may be employedk in the practice of my invention to i'orm theA i'oldline and to put extra stiffness in the band;l

Fig. 5- is a cross-section on the line 5-5 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a cross-section ofv a modified tape;

Fig. 7 is a cross-section of a strip cut from a larger piece to serve the purpose of' the tape;

Fig. 8' is a cross-section of another form oi strip cut from a large piece;

Figs. 9, 10 and 11 are cross-sections of alternatve tape constructions' similar to Fig. 8 but omitting certain of the elements thereof as shown in Fig. 8;.

Fig. 12 is a fragmentary' section similar to the central portion oi Fig. 2' showing the collar plies vin combination with the fabric strips shown in Figs. 7', 8' and 9;

Fig. 13 is a fragmentary section similar to the upper portion of' Fig. 3y when the combination shown in Fig. 12 is employed;

Fig. 14 is a diagrammatic showing of a modified tape which` employs a more flexible fabric construction in the foldline zone;

Fig. 15 is a cross-section on the. line I.5i5 of Fig., 14;.

Fig. 16 is a cross-section similar to Fig. 3 but comprising. the tape shown in Figs. 14 and 15; and

17 is across-section showing the strip of Fig. 15 when employed with resist material along the edge portion thereof.

It will be understood, that thedrawings are With properly sei terial either in the form of yarns or coating.

rEhe collar is-shcwn as made according to usual running and turning procedures in which the runningstitclm is: shown at I1 and the external "l stitch" at F8; TheI collar plies are shown attached to` the shirt I3 in a conventional manneni. e.,.by stitching I9 and 26. If conventional practices were followed in making the collar, unduly large variations would result in collar dimensions and in the location of the foldline. lin. my aforesaid application, Serial Nor.v7-9;'7'58 I have disclosed newtechnidues for manufacturingv such. collars whereby these unduly' iarge variations v are eliminated.

Ar characteristic feature oi the form of my'irk vention shown-in Figs; 1` no3 is the use. of a strip of fabric I0 which has an edge portion ma; Such that thel main body' the strip lil; fused. to: the lining and" also preferably to the back:` ply'- t5, the edge portion ifm? fused neither: to the lining Irn-or the baci:I ply Iii. The uniused sone on each'side or theedge portion; Md results in having only twor fused pliesin saidzone,` viz., the face: ply Mi and the lining ply tix.. Thisl zone will therefore be a aime e'greaterirlexibility than" the rest of the coliar along which the. collar will automatically fold ai er iaundering; The"un' fused zone along Athe:` edge its is indicated in'Fig. 1 by the reference character me and itisthis Zone which is occupied by the selvage or edge lportion ma of' the strip I'e'shown in Figs. 2f, 3,1'2 1'3 and` likewise in Figs. 4,' 6,'7, 8, 9; 16;111, I5, 15. and i7'. In Fig. 1 a portion ofthe face-ply Il! and ci' the lining ply i5r has been brokenv away and where this has been done the stippling indi- Cates the adhesive by which the'lining ply ISIf-is fused both to the back ply 1"5- and to theA strip 'I' except along the' edge portion Iiia where the resist t is applied. Of course, the lining ply VI5 may also be fused to the'iace' ply It, and pref'- erably the strip Il) is fused to thfelback ply except 'alongthe edge-portion Illa. A Y When resist is employed,-` as in Figs. l, 2 and 3', the strip Hl' may vtake, any' of several'. possible forms and may be made up either as a tape-o1' may be cut. from a larger piece as a tape-like strip. If desired the edge portion Iiia of the' strip I'U may be of increased thickness; as by the einployznent of a oordA or the equivalent along this edge. One forni oi strip wherein the edge por'- tion 56u' is of increased thickness is' illustrated in Figs. 4 and 5.

In these figures 2l represents a corded edge; 22 represents ordinary Warp cotton yarns; 2.3 represents an ordinary cotton tillen, and 24 represents yarns oi cellulose derivative.. In prac,- tic'e.. the entire width of such tape may convenf ie'ntly be made about 37g of an inch, the. total number of ends oi cotton may be, for instance, 24, and the total number of ends. oicellulose dee rivative yarns may be 12,1. e., 2 cotton warp yarns to each cellulose derivative warp yarn. To prevent fusion of the. tape to thev adhesive-bearing lining in the collar in order to form the Zone lI (le, the region of the tape in the neighborhood of .the initial temporary adhesion.

of the type indicated in Fig. 6, although when the strip shown in Figs. 4 and 5 is used in com'- bination withthe collar plies the showing there-y of on the smaller scale of Figs. 2 and 3 is essentially the same as that of Figs. 2 and 3,

`While a tape Aspecially woven for the purpose affordsV a very convenient means for making they;l foldline accordingto this invention, it is not nec'- essary to use a specially woven tape. Fig'. '7 shows a cross-section lthrough a strip of lining mates` rial such asis customarily used inthe manufacture of fusedffcollars, i. e., a strip containing cel--l lulose derivative yarns as indicated at 24 as Well as the cotton'yarns 22 and filler 23. This strip is cut from 'such yard goods to appropriate width and the edge -portion IIJa is treated with resist as shown at 9a on one side and at 9b on the oppoposite side. On account of the presence of cellulose derivative yarns in the 'edge of such a strip, itis'very` desirable to treat both sides of the edge with the resist as shown. .If only one side were treated' fusion would take place between the j back ply and the strip in the folding zone and this would tend to stiien said folding zone. '.1 Fig. 8 is across-section of a so-called coated fabric used inthe manufacture of fuse'dcollars inwhich an ordinary fabric is shown at that 1 mayconsist of warp'cotton yarns 22 and filling cotton yarns'23. The fabric 25 carries a coating of adhesive material on each sidel as shown at. 2B and 26a.; -Fabricof this sort may be cut! into strips in accordance with my invention and onel edge treated on both sides inthe region of the edge portion Ia witnresist 'as shown at 9a andb. I n the'case of a; coated fabric such .asl that shown in Fig. 8 the coating 26'which faces the adhesive-carrying lining I5 in the completed 'collar may,if desired, be omitted as shown in Fig. 9 because the 'adhesive carried iby the lining will cause'the strip Il) to become fused with the lining'except where the resist 9a.v is applied alongv the edge Illa, when the adhesive carried bythe lining is activated during-the' fusing of the coli#y lar plies. However, for the purpose of more readily Veffecting temporary "adhesiono'f the strip III to the lining ply during collar manufacturee'it is preferable that the strip Illpresent an adhe' 'sive as a coating or 'otherwise' on thesurface to be adhered to the liningso that it can be ,plasticized'to a certain extent, thereby facilitating ;`It is preferredv that strip I0 carry material asl a coating or'otherwise on the sur#v Vface thereof which faces the back ply so thaty the strip I0 and the back ply will be fused'tc-A gether in thecompleted collar except where the resist is 'applied along the edge portion I0'a I-Iowever,l some of the advantages herein "described can be obtained when the strip I0 does not carry Aadhesive on this surface. `For exeA ample, in the case of a coated fabric such asthat shown in Fig. .8, theadhesive coating 26a,

may be omittedas shownfin Fig. 10, in which case. the'resist l9b would not be necessary and" 6,. couldbe omittedas likewise shown in Fig. 10:y In'theproduction of a collar of this type it is also the case that a strip of ordinary fabric may be employedwhich does not present an adhesive surface on either side, as by omitting both of the coatings 26 and 26a of-Fig. 8 as shown in Fig. 11. In such case the resist 9a.' would be employed in the region of the edge portion Ia and the strip III-would ultimately become fused to the adhesive-carrying lining ply except where the resist 9a. is applied to the edge portion IIIa of the strip I0, but in this case the backing ply would be unadhered to the strip Il). When the strip ID has resist material applied tor both surfaces thereof in the region of the edge portion'la as shown in Figs. 7, 8 and 9' the disposition of the strip I0 in the finished collarwill be that illustrated in Figs. 12 and 13. However, when the resist material is applied to theedge portion IOa. on that surface only which` opposes the lining. ply in the finished collar; as shown `in Figs. 5, 6, 10 and 11, then the disposition of 'the strip in the finished collar will be as illustrated in Figs.l 2 and 3. In Figs. 2, 3, 12 and 13 no attempt has been made to show thel adhesive for during the fusion operation the adhesive merges with the fabric plies and is not apparent in the collar as a Well defined layer. While the resist material 9, 9a and 9b has been shown Where it occurs in Figs. '2, 3, 12 and 13 it' isto be understood that when the resist material is water soluble, asis usually the case, the resist vmaterial is removed upon the first washing of the collar after it has served its function during the'fusing operation of preventing fusion in the region or regions where it is applied so that .the opposing layers of fabric in these "regions will remain free and unadhered with respect to each other.

While the strip I Il is permanently held in place in the finished collar by virtue of its fusion with the lining ply or with the lining ply and the back ply except along the edge portion Illa where it is unadhered, one may, if desired, reinforce the fixation of the strip III in the finished collar as by one or more rows of stitching 21 as shown in Figs; 2 and 3.

The strip I0 may run the entire length of the collar or may stop short of the ends as indicated in'Fig'. 1. Desirable effects are sometimes obtained by omitting the tape in the neighborhood of the ends of the collar. In this manner no softeningis produced at the foldline in the neighborhood of the ends, thereby creating a roll effect. A' convenient resist material to use is a water soluble `cellulose ether, which creates a thin strong nlm which prevents fusion and which is eliminated on the rst washing. It isto be understood that it is only after the elimination of resist by Washing that the real softening effect is obtained. -v i The strip I0 must be placed with the edge I Ua thereof positioned with respect to the contours of the collar. In order to achieve this result I have developed special manufacturing techniques which are disclosed in my aforesaid application Serial No. 79,758. According to this technique the strip III is preferably plasticized so that it may be temporarily adhered t0 the lining ply I5 in the process of ymanufacture by the mere application of heat and pressure Without resorting to the use of solvents. Subsequent permanent fusion of the strip I0 to the lining I5 and also to the back ply I5 is achieved when the collar is fused as a Whole in the nal fusing lthat of- .adjacent 'portions of the collar. Where resist is used it will be understood that the softening effect thus defined is not. necessarily achieved vuntil after the resist is removed by washing.'l n

While the embodiment of. this invention where- :in'a' tape-like strip is 'preformed so `as tohave a .marginal portionv which is ofmore exible vfabric construction as compared with the `fabric construction of thev body portion of. the strip `has been exemplified in connection with a strip presenting latent activatable adhesive in the form; ofn yarns that are woven into the body portion ofthe strip as shownin Figs. 14 and 15, itis apparent that corresponding differences in vthe` :flexibility offthe fabric construction likewise can T,be. availed ofaccording to'this invention when the latent activatable adhesive, instead of being fwovenvinto the fabric in the formof yarns, is

carried the form of a coating as described,

=hereinabove in connection withFigs. 8 to 10.

'I claimr y '1 l. A one-piece fused collar having acollartop portion and a collarband portion and comprisging at least two plies fused together in face to.

ifaCCv4 .relation substantiallythroughout and a strip .of-fabricin the collarband portion of the collan. one. surfaceof whichis fused-toene of s a id `plies except for, Aa narrow zone adjacent .one edge of said strip thatis disposed in the collar foldline and theopposite Surface of which isfused to a third'ply except lin said narrow .zone adjacent said edge of said strip, said third ply and the ply on the opposite side of said strip being fusedtogether in face-to-face relation substantially through except wheresaid. strip isgainterposed therebetweemthereby providing at .least twoplies fused together in the region of the foldlinevwhich impart substantial stiffness -.in said region, two additional plies of vfabric fused therewith and to eachother in the `collar- -bandportion of the collar which impartsubstantially increased stiffness in-. the region of said collarband portion i immediately adjacent said- ,foldline and: 9H? additional ply of -fabricfuse'd ytherewithnin, the collartopportion of the collar .Which'iinparts .greater stiffness than that in said `foldline reg-ion, `the discontinuity inr stiffness between said foldline region and thebordering collarbandjand collartopgportions of the collar.

being produced by said strip and being located byline-border .between saidv unadhered zon-e of vsaid strip which is disposed in the 4collar foldline and 'the portion of said strip in` the collarbandfwhich is fused to the collar plies' inf'con- -fta-ct with the surfaces thereof.

2. -A one-piecel -fused collar shaving a collarlt'op port-ion and-a collarband. portion and comprising a plurality of fabric tplies, said collar comprising a foldline-forming .posed/'between two ofwsaidfplies, saidfstrip of "fjbricl having an' elongated bodyv portionA which is located in said collarband portion of the collar and having a marginal zone of narrow but vsubstantial width extending into and disposed along the foldline between the collarband and collartop portions of the collar, at least one of the surfaces of said strip of fabric being fused to a collar ply in contact therewith except in the region of said zone leaving said region of said surface free and unadhered with respect to said ply, and said two plies being fused together substantially throughout except where said strip of fabric is interposed therebetween.

3. A one-piece fused collar according to claim 2 wherein said collar comprises a face ply, a

strip of fabric dis- .lining ply and aback ply, wherein said strip of fabric is interposed between said lining ply and said backply, and wherein said lining ply presents adhesive material on the opposite surfaces thereof to which said face ply and said back` ply are fused substantially throughout except Where .said strip is interposedbetween said lining ply .and said back ply.

4. A one-piece fused collar according to claim 2 wherein the opposite surface of said strip in .the region of. said Zone is free and unadhered with respect to the other of said two'plies.

5. A one-piece fused collar according to. claim ."2 wherein therabric of said' strip in the region of said zone is composedfoffabric having substantially greater inherent flexibility as compared with the fabric of said strip in the region which is interposed between two of said plies and which'has an elongated body portion disposed in and along the collarband portion of the collar and an elongated zone lof narrow but'substantial width adjacent one edge of said strip and extending into and disposed along the'k fold- Aline between the collartop and collarband portions of the collar, said two plies being .fused "together substantially throughout except where .said strip is interposed therebetween and'said strip being fused to each of said two plies ex- .cept on at least one surface thereof 'in theregioriv of said zone leaving said surface of" said strip 1n said region of said zone freeand 'unadhered. with respect to the ply in contact therewith thereby providing in said collar a stiifened zonejwhere said body portion of said strip.` is

fused to the plies in contact therewith inthe collarband portion of the collar and anadjacent narrow, elongated, more flexible zone alon'g and defining the foldline between the collarband and collartop portions of the collar where said Zone of said strip is free and unadhered with respect to at least one of the plies in contact there- '7."A`one-piece'fused collar having acollarltop Aportion and a collarband portion and comprising a plurality of plies and a Atape-like stri'p "offabric interposed between two of said plies.

said` two plies being fused together in face-t- `face relation substantiallythroughout 'except where said tape-likestrip of fabric isinterposed therebetween ,said'tape-like strip of fabric having an elongated body portion disposed in and andextending vinto 'and disposed along the'foldy-line'between the collartop and collarband portions of^the collar, said strip of fabric .being l fused to each of said two plies, except 'inthe rregionof said-zone, thereby providing in'said collar a stiffened zone where said body portion of said strip is fused to the plies in contact therewith in the collarband portion of the collar and an adjacent narrow, elongated, more flexible zone along and defining the foldline between the collarband and collartop portions of the collar where said zone of said strip is free and unadhered with respect to the said plies in contact therewith.

8. A one-piece fused collar having a collartop portion and a collarband portion and comprising a plurality of plies and a tape-like strip of fabric interposed between two of said plies, said two amen,

'foff said strip in the region of fsaid'o'o'yvportion, 'said strip being 'iuse to 'eaeh 'of saidV 'tw-o rvplies except on at V'-least one surface thereof in the y 'ifegon 'of :sa-id Zone e'avi-ng sa-id-fsurface of *said strip in said region o'f '"said tiene r 'fir'eevand ifma-dhered With respect to the 'ply in tentant-therewith.

9. A ene-'piece fused vcollar *aecordngto claim 8 'vherein the more fiexibie construe-tifonet 'the abiicof said strip' the region Aof sa'ci zone -Co'm- 'prises 'greater 'spacing fof the ivwaifipv yarnsn the legion-of said zone as Aooia'oparefd with the 'spacing fabric' of "said strip "inthe reg-ion 'of said'zone Ycomprises wai'pyams 'of lesse-ij'cisi'mreteras oom- 1 -Uared with the 'iaireter I01E the 'warp yarns in 'the tbody Vportion lof F'said strip.

`11. A xizrrie=pi =fce fused zcollar taccording to ola'im 8 wherein the more fi'exibl'e constiu'dtion of lthe fabric 4of said stop in the region lof Vsaizifzoiie zo.,

toidline-rfermmg imanes-'trip 'elllongitudi- 'n loirithorei f, said snip of fomit when vuispod Ain contact with an adhesive-carrying fabric-,heilig adapted to ytremantefused therewith atleast inf-fthe re'gion of said body kportion te stitenfsmdffahc insaid region "ani-:asso ni'selL @tb .'-pi'oviterdiseon- -tnuity of y'stiiiiess falling the edge of :between said yzzoItor-i and said zum 416. Afs .an articlenif ze. field-line-fcxrmng strip of having nmlitudinally extendingfbouy spurton and :a 5f narrowibut substantial alongvnnd 'e 'longituminai "marfgm ywhich is v.mbf'stantifaliy more iiexibte euhm-notion :as 'with the v'of Said 'strip inthelr'egien-u "botiy pbrtioh.

,151.. an emol@ of mai-meeting opnermed timeline-forming strip of 'fabric :laocordizw in claim ift-wherein et ieast-oneasuirffaeefof-saidfs'txp of fabric presents exposed latent activsbledv-nesive only :in the region of .soia fboay portion thereof.

1-8. an article of manufacture, ya-prefcnlawd fold-linefomning istrip 'ef faerie 1ttcwo'o'rz-irigI "to lclaim lwherelinonefsurfacefofsaid :s'trip'fcam'es resist` materiailonly 3in1-the :region 'of said -19. A's ian'aitieeaof# manmaoture, a meterme `rlmin'gstrip ei fabric having tenvg'ituiiiimTry dsposed-lboxiy "portion mad-fa-szon'f-ef namow ibut' sbstanftiai width 1alongl and aacent ya ion'gitudinal V1in-argini me'redf, tit-Tenet messie face of said istrip o teltarif: fypresaenting i

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