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US2515038A - Garment edge, more particularly for men's coats - Google Patents

Garment edge, more particularly for men's coats Download PDF

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Publication number
US2515038A
US2515038A US29717A US2971748A US2515038A US 2515038 A US2515038 A US 2515038A US 29717 A US29717 A US 29717A US 2971748 A US2971748 A US 2971748A US 2515038 A US2515038 A US 2515038A
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Prior art keywords
edge
stitch
canvas
suiting
coats
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US29717A
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Arthur J C Harper
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/24Hems; Seams

Definitions

  • IThis invention relates to an improved garment edge, more particularly for mens coats, and, among other objects, aims to provide improved expedients for producing same.
  • the edge of my present invention hasl marked advantages of appearance, simplicity, and economy.
  • Figure l is a section through parts in apreliminary stage in the production of the edge
  • FIGS -2 to 4 inclusive are similar views of successive steps therein;
  • FIG. 4 is a fragmentary plan View of the parts shown in Fig. 4 after the inclusion of expedients to which the present invention is directed, and being a view taken on the line 5-5 of Fig. 6;
  • Figure v6 is an enlarged sectional View similar 'to Fig. 4, but including the expedients shown in Fig. 5 and being a section taken on the line 6 6 of Fig. 5;
  • Figure 7 is a sectional view on the scale of Fig. 6 showing the completed edge Aembodying the practice of the present invention
  • Figure 8 is a View, similar to Fig. 3, preliminary to a modiiied practice following the present invention.
  • Figure 9 is a fragmentary plan view of the parts shown in Fig. 8 after the inclusion of modilied expedients following the present invention, and being a view taken on the line 9-9 of Fig. l0;
  • Figure 10 is an enlarged sectional view somewhat similar to Fig. 8 but including the expedients shown in Fig. 9 and being a section taken on the line Ill-Ill of Fig. 9; and
  • Figure 1l is a sectional view on the scale of Fig. 10 showing the completed edge embodying the practice of the modied form of the invention.
  • I have shown a piece of outside material Il which may be any suiting fabric and which may be superimposed on an interior coat front or canvas-like element I2 and basted thereto as at I 3, the basting I3 being later removed. lin accordance with the better tailoring practice the margin of the canvas-like material l2 is cut away or trimmed back leaving an overhanging edge portion I4 of the material II.
  • outside material I5 which is usually of the same suiting fabric as the material II and is substantially coterminous therewith.
  • the layers of outside material I I and I5 may be machine-stitched together as at I6, the latter stitch catching the edge Id of the material II and a corresponding edge Il of the material I5, but being spaced outwardly of the edge of the canvas-like element I2.
  • the canvas-like element I2 instead of being sewn to the body of the suiting material I I, is sewn to the edge margin I4 thereof, which edge margin is finally brought to the inside of the garment edge and concealed from view. Since it is immaterial whether or not the thread so used passes completely through the concealed inner edge margin Id of the suiting material, an easier and quicker operation ensues and one which positively insures that the stitch attaching the canvas-like element I2 to the suiting material shall be concealed from view no matter how light weight the suiting material may be.
  • the outer suiting material I I and facing suiting material I5 may be spread apart about the stitch I6 securing them together and their inner edges I4 and I1 spread apart and pressed down onto the materials respectively to enhance the sharpness of the ultimate edge.
  • the edge I8 of the canvas-like element I2 will lie between the suiting material II and its inner pressedclown edge HI.
  • a felling or cross stitch I9 is now taken through the inner edge margin III of the suiting material I I and the lapping edge I 8 of the canvas-like element I2. It will be seen that the stitch I9 is free of the stitch I6 and of all other parts. It may catch the element I2 at Ilia and the inner edge margin I4 at I9b.
  • felling or cross stitch 2I may be taken from the edge I8 of the vcanvas-like element I2 across the stitch I6 to the inner edge I4 of the suiting material I I, ⁇ the stitch 2I being independent of the stitch I6 and not engaging the materials immediately thereat but rather bridging the latter.
  • like the stitch I6, is free of all other parts except the canvas-like element I2 and the material inner edge I 4.' It may catch the element I2 at Zia' and the inner edge I 4 at 2lb.
  • the facing material I5 and with it its inner edge I'I may be rotated about the edge I6 and superimposed on the canvas-like element I2, in this instance carrying with it the inner edge I4 of the material II, and the parts may then be pressed down to produce substantially the same completed edge as shown in Fig. 7 which again may, if desired, be finished with an edge stitch such as shown at in Fig. 7.
  • the Velement I2 in each case is desirably dat and unfolded.
  • the basting stitch I3 is removed and also that commonly the inner edge I'I may be trimmedoff as at 22 so as to be somewhat shorter than the inner edge I4 to minimize thickening of the edge.
  • An important advantage is that it makes unnecessary the use of edge tape for attaching the canvas-like element to the materials While at the same time providing enhanced economy and a thinner and smoother edge. In each instance, only ve layers of material, including the inner margins, occur in the finished edge, that is, the two material outside portions, the two inner margins, and the single interior element or coat front member.
  • a garment edge consisting of two layers of material stitched together by a rst stitch and folded upon themselves and upon each other to provide outside portions and inner edge margins thereof, a single interior unfolded garment front element between said materials, and a second stitch extending from the interior element to one of the said inner edge margins, said second stitch being free of the outside portions and being free of the first mentioned stitch, whereby only the said materials are'folded in said edge and the said second stitch extends directly from said interior element to an inner edge margin and is free of all other parts.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)

Description

Juy M, i950 A. J. c. HARPER- GARMENT EDGE, MORE PARTICULARLY FOR MENS COATS Filed May 28, 1948 fnvenloff @rf/fau* J C. Harfe# Patented July 11, 1950 UNITED STATES PATENTv OFFICE GARMENT EDGE, MORE PARTICULAR/LY FOR MEN S COATS Arthury J. C. Harper, Chicago, Ill. Application' May 2s, 194s, serial No. 29,717
1 Claim.
IThis invention relates to an improved garment edge, more particularly for mens coats, and, among other objects, aims to provide improved expedients for producing same.
The edge of my present invention hasl marked advantages of appearance, simplicity, and economy.
The invention may be understood by reference to the following description, taken together with the accompanying drawings, of an illustrative embodiment thereof, and in which drawings:
Figure l is a section through parts in apreliminary stage in the production of the edge;
Figures -2 to 4 inclusive are similar views of successive steps therein;
Figure is a fragmentary plan View of the parts shown in Fig. 4 after the inclusion of expedients to which the present invention is directed, and being a view taken on the line 5-5 of Fig. 6;
Figure v6 is an enlarged sectional View similar 'to Fig. 4, but including the expedients shown in Fig. 5 and being a section taken on the line 6 6 of Fig. 5;
Figure 7 is a sectional view on the scale of Fig. 6 showing the completed edge Aembodying the practice of the present invention;
Figure 8 is a View, similar to Fig. 3, preliminary to a modiiied practice following the present invention;
Figure 9 is a fragmentary plan view of the parts shown in Fig. 8 after the inclusion of modilied expedients following the present invention, and being a view taken on the line 9-9 of Fig. l0;
Figure 10 is an enlarged sectional view somewhat similar to Fig. 8 but including the expedients shown in Fig. 9 and being a section taken on the line Ill-Ill of Fig. 9; and
Figure 1l is a sectional view on the scale of Fig. 10 showing the completed edge embodying the practice of the modied form of the invention.
Referring in detail to the illustrative construction shown in the drawings, I have shown a piece of outside material Il which may be any suiting fabric and which may be superimposed on an interior coat front or canvas-like element I2 and basted thereto as at I 3, the basting I3 being later removed. lin accordance with the better tailoring practice the margin of the canvas-like material l2 is cut away or trimmed back leaving an overhanging edge portion I4 of the material II.
The parts just described may be inverted and superposed on a facing outside material I5 which is usually of the same suiting fabric as the material II and is substantially coterminous therewith. Next, the layers of outside material I I and I5 may be machine-stitched together as at I6, the latter stitch catching the edge Id of the material II and a corresponding edge Il of the material I5, but being spaced outwardly of the edge of the canvas-like element I2.
Heretofore, in conventional practice, at or about the stage last described, it has been customary to sew the edge of the canvas-like element. I2 to the suiting material II after which the basting stitch I3 would be removed. An objection to this practice has been that such sewing of the canvas-like element to the suiting material II is a diicult and delicate operation in that great care must be taken to avoid having the thread so used pass completely through the suiting material and be seen on the outer surface of the material. This is particularly true when light weight spring or summer material is being worked with. f
In accordance with the present'in'vention, the canvas-like element I2, instead of being sewn to the body of the suiting material I I, is sewn to the edge margin I4 thereof, which edge margin is finally brought to the inside of the garment edge and concealed from view. Since it is immaterial whether or not the thread so used passes completely through the concealed inner edge margin Id of the suiting material, an easier and quicker operation ensues and one which positively insures that the stitch attaching the canvas-like element I2 to the suiting material shall be concealed from view no matter how light weight the suiting material may be.
In one practice of the present invention and as shown in Fig. 4, the outer suiting material I I and facing suiting material I5 may be spread apart about the stitch I6 securing them together and their inner edges I4 and I1 spread apart and pressed down onto the materials respectively to enhance the sharpness of the ultimate edge. As seen in the drawings, when this is done the edge I8 of the canvas-like element I2 will lie between the suiting material II and its inner pressedclown edge HI.
Following the present invention, and as seen in Figs. 5 and 6, a felling or cross stitch I9 is now taken through the inner edge margin III of the suiting material I I and the lapping edge I 8 of the canvas-like element I2. It will be seen that the stitch I9 is free of the stitch I6 and of all other parts. It may catch the element I2 at Ilia and the inner edge margin I4 at I9b.
Finally, as shown in Fig. 7, the facing mate- I8 of the canvas-like element I2 to the inner edge 1 I4 of the suiting material I I may take place while the parts are still in the positions shown in Fig. 3 and shown again in Fig. 8.
At this time, in accordance with the present invention, as shown in Figs 9 and 10 a, felling or cross stitch 2I may be taken from the edge I8 of the vcanvas-like element I2 across the stitch I6 to the inner edge I4 of the suiting material I I,`the stitch 2I being independent of the stitch I6 and not engaging the materials immediately thereat but rather bridging the latter. It will be seen that the stitch 2|, like the stitch I6, is free of all other parts except the canvas-like element I2 and the material inner edge I 4.' It may catch the element I2 at Zia' and the inner edge I 4 at 2lb.
Finally, here again, as shown in Fig. 1l, the facing material I5 and with it its inner edge I'I may be rotated about the edge I6 and superimposed on the canvas-like element I2, in this instance carrying with it the inner edge I4 of the material II, and the parts may then be pressed down to produce substantially the same completed edge as shown in Fig. 7 which again may, if desired, be finished with an edge stitch such as shown at in Fig. 7. It will be noted that the Velement I2 in each case is desirably dat and unfolded.
It will be understood that at some time prior to the completion of the edge the basting stitch I3 is removed and also that commonly the inner edge I'I may be trimmedoff as at 22 so as to be somewhat shorter than the inner edge I4 to minimize thickening of the edge.
In either practice of the invention hereinbefore described the canvas-like coat iront element I2 is finally attached only to the inner concealed edge I4 and is unfolded and unattached to the outside portions of the suiting material thus assuring that the thread effecting this securement is completely concealed within the edge and will not show on the outer surface of the garment,
An important advantage is that it makes unnecessary the use of edge tape for attaching the canvas-like element to the materials While at the same time providing enhanced economy and a thinner and smoother edge. In each instance, only ve layers of material, including the inner margins, occur in the finished edge, that is, the two material outside portions, the two inner margins, and the single interior element or coat front member.
Such changes may be made as fall within the scope of the appended claim without departing therefrom.
The invention having been described, what is here claimed is:
As an article of manufacture, a garment edge consisting of two layers of material stitched together by a rst stitch and folded upon themselves and upon each other to provide outside portions and inner edge margins thereof, a single interior unfolded garment front element between said materials, and a second stitch extending from the interior element to one of the said inner edge margins, said second stitch being free of the outside portions and being free of the first mentioned stitch, whereby only the said materials are'folded in said edge and the said second stitch extends directly from said interior element to an inner edge margin and is free of all other parts.
ARTHUR J. C. HARPER.
REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the
US29717A 1948-05-28 1948-05-28 Garment edge, more particularly for men's coats Expired - Lifetime US2515038A (en)

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1074377B (en) * 1960-01-28 Durkoppwerke Aktiengesellschaft Bielefeld Close and edge trimming machines for the production of \ collapse seams
US2990554A (en) * 1959-01-21 1961-07-04 Nelson Jack Method of finishing a garment edge
US2993210A (en) * 1959-10-12 1961-07-25 Bubes Samuel Lining structure for lightweight jackets
US5383414A (en) * 1993-05-17 1995-01-24 Union Special Corporation Apparatus for making a three needle stitch with cover thread
US6308648B1 (en) * 1998-10-06 2001-10-30 Perry E. Burton Method of making lined fabric products with an open hem

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1574405A (en) * 1922-06-09 1926-02-23 Lewis Invisible Stitch Machine Garment and like article of manufacture
US1720771A (en) * 1928-04-03 1929-07-16 Frederic H Taber Collar or like garment part and method of making the same
US1862377A (en) * 1929-10-26 1932-06-07 Arthur J C Harper Garment edge
GB479374A (en) * 1936-10-13 1938-02-04 Benjamin Liebowitz Improvements in or relating to seamed fabrics, more particularly articles of wearing apparel

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1574405A (en) * 1922-06-09 1926-02-23 Lewis Invisible Stitch Machine Garment and like article of manufacture
US1720771A (en) * 1928-04-03 1929-07-16 Frederic H Taber Collar or like garment part and method of making the same
US1862377A (en) * 1929-10-26 1932-06-07 Arthur J C Harper Garment edge
GB479374A (en) * 1936-10-13 1938-02-04 Benjamin Liebowitz Improvements in or relating to seamed fabrics, more particularly articles of wearing apparel

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1074377B (en) * 1960-01-28 Durkoppwerke Aktiengesellschaft Bielefeld Close and edge trimming machines for the production of \ collapse seams
US2990554A (en) * 1959-01-21 1961-07-04 Nelson Jack Method of finishing a garment edge
US2993210A (en) * 1959-10-12 1961-07-25 Bubes Samuel Lining structure for lightweight jackets
US5383414A (en) * 1993-05-17 1995-01-24 Union Special Corporation Apparatus for making a three needle stitch with cover thread
US5544604A (en) * 1993-05-17 1996-08-13 Union Special Corporation Three needle stitch with cover thread
US6308648B1 (en) * 1998-10-06 2001-10-30 Perry E. Burton Method of making lined fabric products with an open hem

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