US2505460A - Method of and apparatus for shaping and sizing hatbrims - Google Patents

Description

April 25, 1950 G, CIPR|AN0 2,505,460

METHOD 0F' AND APPARATUS FOR SHAPING AND SIZING HAT BRIMS Filed Oct. 9, 1947 4 Shets-Sheet l Aprll 25, 1950 G. lPRlANo 2,505,460

METHOD AN PPARATUS FOR SHAPING SIZING HAT BRIMS Filed Oct.- 9, 1947 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 l 3 @l l April 25, 195oV G. CIPRIANO METHOD OF' AND APPARATUS FOR SHAPING AND SIZING HAT BRIMS Filed Odi. 9, 1947 4 Sheets-Sheet. 3

April 25, 1950 2,505,460

G. clPRlANo" METHOD 0F AND APPARATUS FOR SHAPING AND SIZING HAT BRIMS Filed Oct. 9, 1947' 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 lil 6A D04/fo CADe/ANO ATTORNEYS Patented pr. 25, 1950 UNITED STATES PATENT OFF-ICE METHODDF AND APPARATUS ,FOR SHA1/ING AND SIZING HATBRIMS Gandolfo Cipriano, Dongan Hills, N. Y.

Application October 9, 1947,1Seral No. 778,935

9 Claims.

The present invention `relates to a `method of and apparatus for shaping and sizing hatbrims. In lthe hat making industry, particularly that portion thereof which manufactures hats of felt, straw, or thelike, large scaleproduction and sale of hats having certain types `or styles of brim have been retarded because. of the excessive cost, duein large measure to the fact-that, heretofore, brims of these types -couldbe sized yand shaped only by expensive `hand operations. In making a Homburg style.hat,vfor example, .of felt or straw, Vthe lhat blank is l.formed ,by ,known procedures. vThe briinmayvary in width; and its outer edge Aportions area-oiled or bent to `overlie intermediate'po-rtions. According to presently known practice,r thisrollingorbending of the Vedge and establishing yof thennal sizeand-appearance of the brim are accomplished ,only by a series of hand operations performedby skilled and highly paid craftsmen in thehat ironingand finishing art.

j-Amongethe objects .of my .inventionare the following: 4to .provide la method wherebyucertain steps offthe brimshaping andsizing procedure in making stra-wand felt hatsfmay beperformed atleast in partmechanically Yandlthereby reduce the timeand -theicost of the, operation; to enable hat finishers to standardize o certain t brim shapes and sizes; to facilitate the .sizing .and shaping dof the-brims of hat blanksfmadefromgarious materials, las .different` kindsV ofstraw, felts and the like; and `to provide procedurerand v apparatus whereby the .briins l`oil-hat blanks of .felt straw, orxthe like, n iaybefaccuratey sized andkshaped to presenti inwardly rolled or jbent v'edele o portions. In this speciication A,and the accompanying drawings ,l have shown and .described a `-pref erred @embodimentof my invention and suggested variousmodications thereo o but it. iS, t ,be urlderstood .that thesear not intended to be. exhausti-vemr limitnaofthe invention ,but Q11 the cntrary, are given for .purposes i-Millesimtion-in4 order ,that others Qskilledin theart fully understandthe invention and theprincipies thereof and the manner piapplyingitiin various forms each f as maybe .best suited to theyfccnditions .of-a particular use.

Other objects of .andlcontemplated*beneficial results :flowing from the present invention Awill more clearly iappearrfrom, the following description andthe ,drawings appended thereto illus- 2 and shaping v.machine with portions thereof broken away andotherportions shown in vertical section;

Figure 2, an enlarged fragmentary View in verticalsection illustrating the relative positionsof certain operating parts of the-apparatus shown in Figure lbut at a phase of-operation subsequent to that-there shownandearly in the sizing and shaping of a roll edge brim;

yFigure 3, an enlarged fragmentary View in vertical section of the parts shown in Figure 2, illustrating their .relative ypositions at a later or intermediate size rdetermining stage of the roll edge brim sizing andshapingprocedure;

Figurel, an enlarged fragmentary view in Ver.- ticalsection of .the parts shownin Figures 2 and 3, illustrating their relative positions atthe nal phase .of therOIledge brim sizing and shaping operation;

Figure 5, .an'enlarlged fragmentary view in vertical section offmodifiedbrimsizing and shaping parts in relative positions .priortoinitiating .certainFportions of thesizing and shaping procedure wherein'avforniof brimedge differing from those f; shown -inF-igures lmtoA, inclusive-is produced;

vli'igu-re'f, a View illustrating the nal phase vof the sizing and shaping procedure as performed by the parts shown in'Figure 5 Figure 7, an enlarged vfragmentary view in .vertical-.section of further Imovdiiied brim sizing and shaping parts in relative positions prior to initiating certain portions of the sizing and shaping procedure for producing .a type of welted brim edge withgthe ,Welt v or-.edge portion bent inwardly toward .the top surface of thebrim;

Figure .8, ra view illustrating thev nal phase. vor stage of the :sizing vvand shaping procedure as performed .bythe parts-shown inFigure 7 rl'i-gure 9, anenlarged fragmentary viewvin Vertical section of a further .modification wherein brim sizing and shapingparts are shown inrelative positionsobtaining at an early phase ofthe brim sizing and shaping procedure applied to produceagweltledge br-ifm of .the type with thev paratusv forfiianginghats, as by applying pressure or heat and pressure to hat brims of the so-called nished edge or flat (not rolled) type. According to the present invention, the brim edge of felt or straw hats, or the like, when complete, takes the form of a roll, bend, or curve inwardly toward the crown by a procedure which includes the steps of applying pressure to portions of the brim between the crown and the peripheral edge, applying pressure to edge portions while the latter are in inwardly rolled or bent position, and applying to said edge and said intermediate portions of the brim greater pressure than that employed in said preceding steps. The foregoing operations, which are conveniently and advantageously, though not necessarily, performed by the mechanical means, hereinafter described, or equivalent means, follow a preparatory step wherein the brim is initially rolled or bent and edge portions thereoi are simultaneously shrunk to less than the ultimate or nished maximum peripheral extent of the brim, thus producing an edge roll approximating the form indicated, for example, in Figure 5.

It will be understood that this pre-rolling of the brim will be applied to straw as well as to felt hat blanks and to blanks with untrimmed brim edges as well as to blanks, e. g., of the Panama type, with finished brim edges. Whether the brim of the blank be of the finished or unnished type, the desired initial brim roll and edge shrink may be imparted thereto by any suitable means, as by the use of a curl or roll forming hand tool, known in the trade as a shackle At this stage, a hat is practically complete, except for the sizing and shaping of the brim and the application of trimmings, if any, as ribbons, hat bands, sweat bands, etc.

Where the brim, after pre-rolling, is brought to nal size and shape according to my invention, the several steps of method involved are advantageously performed, at least in part, with the aid of devices to be described. One form of apparatus for the purpose includes a frame such, for example, as that shown in Figures 1 and 2 of said U. S. Patent No. 1,991,921, having uprights, tie members, a cross head sliding on said uprights, and devices for moving the cross head up and down, for example, a hand lever operatively connected to said cross head. n

As seen in Figure 1 of the drawings appended hereto, a cross head I9 slides between predetermined up and down positions on uprights |I and may be actuated by any suitable means, as a lever I2 which rotates shaft I2 so as to operate a toggle including arms I3 (one of which is shown) connected to shaft l2 and links I4 (one of which is shown) pivotally connecting said arms to cross head I0. Thus, cross head IU is raised to up or inoperative position to insert or remove various interchangeable shape and size determining forms herein conveniently termed irons carried thereby and to permit the effective positioning of other irons adapted to cooperate therewith. Cross head II! is moved to down position to bring said several irons into effective ironing or heating and pressing operation.

The irons carried by cross head v||1I in a manner to be described are adjustable toward and from said cross head. For this purpose, a portion of cross head I is interiorly threaded to provide a nut It which receives the threaded boss Ita of a hand wheel IT. A central longitudinal hole I'Ia extends through boss Ita and hand wheel il. An iron supporting plate I5 has Ia stem |5a which extends through said longitudinal hole IIa and is provided at its upper end with a nut I5b. The under surface of nut |5b rides on a washer |50 Which in turn rests on a portion of the top surface of hand wheel 4|'|.

The arrangement is such that when said hand wheel Il is turned in one direction, its boss ld moves upwardly in nut It. This lifts plate I5 and all parts supported thereon. Turning hand wheel 'I in the opposite direction lowers said plate i5 and the parts supported thereon.

A pin Mib extending upwardly from plate i5 engages the slot of a slotted detent arm i60 extending laterally from nut I6. Thus, when hand wheel is rotated, the tendency, if any, of plate i5 to like rotation is prevented by said pin |617 bea-ring against said iixed detent |60.

A top iron I8, the uppermost of the several irons as they appear in Figures l to 4, inclusive, of the drawings, is releasably supported on a ring shaped frame I9, which is suspended from an intermediate ring @l2 detachably secured to plate i5 by studs 2li and cotter pins 2i. Hooks 22 and wing nuts 23 detachably hold the iron in position in the carrier and heater frame I9. Counterparts of this structure are shown and more fully described in said Patent 1,991,921.

An electrical resistance heater element, as coil 24, or other suitable heating means with thermostatic and/or other suitable controls, such for example as the three stage (low, medium and high) control switches shown in my said patent, supplies heat to said carrier ring 42, frame ring I9 and iron i8. Thus, when plate i5 is adiusted vertically by turning hand wheel equivalent adjustment of the position of iron i8 in relation to cross head I0 and other cooperating parts takes place. The above and other devices to be described, enable the operator to control the extent of pressure and heat to be applied to a hat brim at different stages in the sizing and shaping thereof.

Apparatus for holding a hat blank in a position relative to iron |8, and other previously described parts, such that the brim may be sized and shaped according to the present invention includes a frame 25 having a handle 25 at one end, said frame being mounted to slide inwardly on table 21 from its outer position, as seen in Figure 1, to its inner, or operative position below iron I8. This table 21 is accurately positioned on, or constitutes the bed of the toggle press which includes the parts le to I4, inclusive, above described. Below this table is shown a cabinet with shelves for holding hats, irons, etc., which is a convenient arrangement and use for this space below the bed of the press.

A bottom iron 28, the lowermost of the several irons as they appear in Figures 1 to 4, inclusive, of the drawings, and which is supported on said slidable frame 25, has an ironing surface, including a peripheral grooved portion 29. Said iron 28 is heated by suitable means such as a resistance element 39, or the like, with appropriate thermostatic and/or other controls such, for example, as the three stage switch control shown in my said patent and which provides low, medium or high heat at the will of the operator.

A middle or intermediate iron 3| is supported in heat receiving relation to a ring 32 which is mounted to slide vertically and in telescoping relation to said bottom iron 28. Portions of the outer surface of iron 3| are normally in heat receiving relation to inner surface portions of iron 28. With the parts arranged as shown in Figure 4, i. e., during the final pressing stage, this heat transferring area .of :contact.is ncreasedand iron 3 i. also.engages and .receivesheat from frame 25.

.To produce Athe desired sizing and shaping 4of brims `of -the .rollvor =curl edge type, as in the Homburg -style of hat,according to my invention, said irons .18., .28 and 3 I are .brought into operation rin a predeterminedvxordei-.and under controlledconditions `whereby .they impartto the brim .different .degrees .of pressure at different stages or phases of the method. This .mode of operation is `facilitatedin the vnillustratedstructuresv by the provision of springs of) different compressive .characteristics .interposed respectively .betweenvarious parts of the apparatus which .are disposedwbetween .the .cross head rIll and thefslidable 'frame'S `when the` parts are .in operative/position.

seen -irfiigure `1, .relatively .heavy or .stiil sprngs34lifour-being employed inthe 'illustrated embodiment, areintc'rposed between the .plate I5 andthe ring 42 which carries frame I9 .and iron I8. v"Relativly'.light or .yielzlingsprings '35 (also four in number) areinterposer'lI between portions o'f frame I9-andiron TIB. These springs35 are arranged and adapted to accommodate upward movement f the ironlB inrlation .to frame I9 against gradually increasing resistance of said springs `as they 'are shortened from extended condition, 'Figure 2,- to compressed condition, Figures 3 Vand 4. `Four medium heavy or stili springs 35 are interposed between'frameZE. and the iron lc'arying and 'heating ring 32 to .yieldin'gly resist downward movement of said Aringf32 andsa'id iron 3l 'toward'the frame `25 under circumstances, i. e., Yfrom their relative positions, Figure' 2, to their relative positions, Figure 1., 'for a ,purpose to be described.

".The extent of downward movement 'f iron I8 inrelation Sto "frame "I9 by pressure .of ysprings 35 Ais limited by Apins 40 extending outwardly from said iron Aandfinto slots 4.I 1in rthe wall. o f frame VI3 and normally bearing. against lower end prtins of said slots. Thus,. iron '.I8 is..movable upwardly in-relation to frame I 9.'.against vtherelatively `1ight'resistance"of` springs 35; and iron .3| is 'movable downwardly in relation to. ringQZ'I and fratrie' 25 'against the relatively greater .resistance of the medium `springs`3'6.

. The extent Vof upward movement of .ringf32 and hence of...iron`V 3| dueto springs 36 is limited by'pins 31' extending' inwardly yfrom. a portion oi iron V28Linto slots '3'8 in ring"'32. .'These slots 38 are 'closed at "their 1ower.ends, as by a` stop l,plate 39,' which also .L normally A,engages 'said .extended If "it"is "desired to Varytlie *iiective' vresistance rati'between springs 3j4,.`35,"an'd` 3Bto conform to yaryi'ng requirements oi 'differentma'terials dium springs 36 are lconveniently 2% 'inches lnor-- mal .or fopenilength. 'When..ifullyflcompressed.l or closed, 4they farei` rinehflong anaffexerta .counterpressure 'of 54:punds. '."Thefheavyorl stiff springs 34care -convenintly Iiisinches 11 normalafor v.lopen i.:

length. When vfully compressed or closed, pthey are inch elongland exerta counterpressure of ;p^ounds.

When employing-.apparatus as above described to lcarry"out.steps of themethod included in the present invention, -a hat, e. jg., of straw, felt,.or other material, and with its brim edge 43 prerolled orcurled inwardly toward its crown 44, as )previously described, is'mounted, for example, as shown in `Figures l and 2. In this case, the hat .is to .have a brim of predetermined nal width withfa permanent rolled or curled edge.

Ordinarily, 1in vcommercial operations, hat blanks of .similar .material :andistyle will be processed in batches after the .operator determines, in the case of each batch, approximately .what pressure.andtemperature'` conditions are most-effective to iriroduce the idesired result. .In many casesthe experienced operator will 'make the necessary Aadjustments `without preliminary trial. In 'other zcases, oneormore hats may be ironed experiment-ally under -different pressure and heat conditions. In general, iiironing a felt blank produces a shiny surface, -the pressure is too great-` As previously indicated, thepressures here referred to are adjustably controllable -by turning hand wheel I'I.

Having determined 'the approximately correct pressure andtempera'ture conditions 'for'iblanks havingthe particular :characteristics ofthe illustrative example, and with carrier'25'in out position, `tlfie "brim oi each blankis 'initially positioned on iron 3|, Figure 1,with1its outer .edge curledraround aportion .of the 'roundedrim of said iron 3I. Framev 25 is then. moved intopositionso'th'at 'iron 3l, with the brim disposed as indicated, comes into alignment'A below iron I8.

By pulling down on lever l2, the operator brings iron I8 first tothe position shown in Figure 2 where'said iro'n comesyinto engagement withthe Yhat brim supported on iron 3|. At this point, ir'ons I8 and `3I .press relatively gently. that portion '45 of the brim extending approximately spreadv or .iextended smoothly-fand regularly lbetween-said irons I8 and 3l where it is held Vunder yielding. pressure :without wrinkles or :creases becanseA fof. the application of gradually increasing pressure-which allows undesirediullness to be pressed out. Eigure shows the relative positions of `parts :of the apparatus at the end of this phase of the operation and ready lfor thenext phase, which. comes :with additional downward swing Vof Alever I2.

Further'actuatin'g' movementnof .lever I2 fcauses further :downward .travel of .frame I9.l and' iron I8. Sinfcecthe springs-.35 are now'compressedto maximuni'.extent,1thisA further downward move- :mentof frame I9 and iron I8` imparts. like rmove-- mentV tdiron 3| .against yielding.resistance of springs; Swhicnras .previouslyrstated,.rare stiffer than` springs .35; and ,withaincreasing' compressionafofcsaidrsprings. 36";thel parts .'arei brought" to the .relative positions.;indicated.z in; Figure'.f4,;aat

which stage, springs A36 are compressed fully or -to a predetermined maximum extent. g

In moving downwardly from the positions shown in Figure 3 to those shown in Figure 4, the irons I8 and 3| carry the curled edge portion '43 of the hat blank downwardly and into engagement with the groove 29 of bottom iron 28.v Since the stiffer springs 36 are progressively compressed during this movement, pressure on the brim portion 45 is correspondingly increased in the second stage or phase just described; and the curled edge portion 43 is pressed between the rounded or curved under surface of the rim of iron 3| and the correspondingly curved surface of groove 29 in iron 28.

fn the third phase, starting with the parts in substantially the positions shown in Figure 4, the final increment of=actuating movement of lever I2 causesi downward movement of plate I5 toward the intermediate plate 42 against resistance of the strong springs 34 which have yielded little, if any, in the steps previously described. However, in this nal stage, as springs 34 are compressed, they impart increasing pressure to plate 42 and hence to the hat brim now engaged and pressed by the three irons I8, 3| and 28, Figure 4.

The amount of final pressure, the time during which it is applied and the concurrent heat and/'or moisture conditions are likely to vary widely for different kinds of hats, depending upon such variable factors as the material, its thickness, its manner of fabrication, etc. With a given set of springs 34, 35, and 36 this final pressure will be controlled by adjusting plate I in relation to cross head I6. For example, if plate I5 is raised by turning hand wheel I'I, the compressive effect of stiff springs 3d in the nal step is diminished. Adjustment of plate I5 in the opposite direction, i. e., downward, produces increased nal pressure.

Where circumstances require that the final pressure be applied and held for a measurable time, it will be convenient to swing lever I2 down to such extent that the toggle arms I3 (one shown) and the links I4 (one shown) come into substantially vertical alignment or just past that position, so that the cross head IIJ, the plate I5 and the irons i8 and 3| will in eifect be releasably held in down position. Thus, the maximum required pressure may be maintained on the hat brim for any desired or necessary period of time. As seen in Figure ll, when the irons reach their nal pressing position, there is a space between portions of the lower face of iron 3| and the upper face of iron 28 to accommodate the thickness of the material of the hat blank brim and permit application of the desired pressure thereto. If the peripheral edge of the brim, as finally sized and shaped, is irregular, the Vexcess portions thereof will extend into this space and may be cut off in a later trimming operation after the hat has been removed from the machine.

In the modification shown in Figures 5 and 6, the hat to be processed is brought into operative position under iron |8a with its brim portion 45 supported on iron 3|a. The brim curl or roll portion 43, pre-formed as previously explained, is then conveniently bent downwardly by hand to bring the free edge thereof into position between the under surface 3|b of iron 3|a and the upper surface 28h of iron 28a and engaging or lying opposite said surface 3|b, or substantially as shown in dotted lines in Figure 5. As shown in Figures 2, 5 and 6, iron 3|a, Figures 5 and 6, is

narrower than iron 3| -of Figure 2'; its top surface is more convex than the top surface of said iron 3|; and the under surface 3|b is fiat as comparedrto the rounded under surface of rim portions ofiron 3|. These differences with others when utilized in accordance with the present invention produce a Homburg type brim quite different in appearance from that produced by operation of the irons in Figure 2, for example, although the sizing and shaping procedures are quite similar.

Considering further the modification shown in Figures 5 and 6 and its manner of use, it will be apparent that in the initial or preliminary shaping of brims of aA given width the direction and extent of curvature Vof the brim and of its roll edge may vary considerably from that shown and with consequent greater or less initial conformity to the contours of the pressing surfaces of irons 18a and 3Ia. Nevertheless, when, in the first stage, iron Ia is moved down on a hat brim supported on iron 3m as shown in dotted lines, Figure 5, the material of intermediate portions 45 of the brim is pressed without creases or wrinkles between said irons I8a and 3Ia to approximately its nal size and shape, commonly known as the Homburg."

It is noted in connection with the parts shown only fragmentarily in Figures 2 to 6 inclusive, that the springs 34, 35 and 36, shown in Figure l, are similarly disposed and perform the same functions in relation to the parts shown in said Figures 2 to 6 as they do in relation to corresponding parts shown more extensively in Figure 1.

In the modification shown in Figures 7 and 8, the iron |8b cooperates with an iron 3|c which presents a somewhat sharply tapered peripheral edge as compared to the edges of the corresponding irons 3| and Bla previously described and as shown in Figures 2 and 5, for example. Iron 3|c cooperates with an iron 28C having a flat upper surface which is substantially parallel to the flat lower surface of iron 3|c.

This modied form of apparatus is employed to produce a welt edge brim with the rim portion bent back toward the hat body and overlying adjacent intermediate portions 45 of the brim.

As inthe previously described procedures, the edge of the brim of the hat blank is pre-rolled or curled, as at 43, and when initially positioned` on ironv 3|c for processing, overlaps and curls under the relatively sharp or attenuated outer rim of said iron. As the frame I9 is moved downwardly with plate I5, ring 42 and springs 34, it carries iron |8b into engagement with said brim portion 45 and causes that portion to be pressed against iron 3Ic without creases or wrinkles, the positions of the parts at this initial stage being approximately as shown in Figure '7. Inasmuch as the springs 36, Figure. 8, are stiffer than the springs 35, continued downward movement of frame I9 will cause its lower rim portion |9a, Figure 7, to move downwardly past the outer edge of iron 3|c and the rim portion thereon, there being suiicient clearance to accommodate the thickness of the brim material which overlaps said edge. As said lower rim portion |9a of frame I9 passes said edge of iron 3Ic, it wipes across the curl or roll edge 43 of the brim, causing said edge to bend inwardly so that portions thereof are brought between the bottom surface of iron 3|c and the top surface of iron 28e. The edges of said lower-rim l9a, of said iron 3|,c, and of iron 28e engage said curl or rollk 43" in operation` and are preferably relieved or slightly rounded to facilitate operation and' avoid injury to the hat blanks. AfterV full or,r predetermined compression of springs 35" and'` after said lower rim I'Qa of frameA it' has bent. the roll'edge 43' inwardly,V further downward movement' of frame R'S'carries said lower rigm E9n thereof downwardly past the upper face of iron 28e and moves iron 3io toward said upper face of iron 28,0 against resistance of lthe stronger springs 36j and to the relative positonsshown in .Figure 8.V Here, the curl or roll edge d3. is, fiattenedas indicated, and is. iixed in said flattened condition in the nal phasev by pressure of springs 3.4 and the heated irons. If the inturned, brim edge .is irregular or does not satisfactorily conform to the outer brim contour, as established.. by the several irons, portions may be trimmed away after removal of the hat from the sizing and shaping devices.

A. further modiiication, as in Figures 9- and 10., illustrates devices moreA particularly adapted to forminga` hat brim with a relatively flat welt edge turned or bent inwardly toward or against the under surface of thebrim. (referring here to the normal position of a hat when worn) For this purpose, the iron-28d is mounted for limited vertical sliding movement in a recessed block 46, Figures 9 and 10, supported on table 25. Light springs 35a interposed between said iron 28d and said block 45 hold said iron in the normal or extended position, asv seen in Figure 9, and wherein edge portions of the upper face of iron Zad extend above the top. edge or rim. 46a of said block. This extended or normal position is determined by the stop. pins. 3l, inner endportions of whichy project into slots. 318 and are engaged by a suitable detent, such as astop plate 39 on said iron 23d extending across slot 3B. Cooperating with iron 28d is` an unattachedlor readily inserta-ble and removable .iron 31d having a collar portion which fits intol the opening of the hat crown when the parts are assembled for opera.- tion.

As.A in` the previous examples, it is assumed that the brim edge 43a of the hat blank is curled or rolled by a prior hand operation, but in thisv case preferably in the direction shown in Figure 9, Although one advantage of the method according to the present invention is that a con-.- siderable` variety of brim shapes and styles m-ay be preduced in the herein` described sizing and shaping procedure from hat blanks wherein the pre-roll is directed upwardly and inwardly by reference to the position of a hat when worn, the hat blank, as shown in Figure 9., more conveniently has its edgepre-curleddownwardly and inwardly by referencey to4 the position of the hat when worn. The hat blank is therefore initially with its'buirnY portion d5 in position over the iron 28d and with itspre-curled edge 43a extending upwardly and inwardly. The loose iron 31d is'then set inposition between a ring 41 and said iron 28d and with its under or curved Figure 10;- however,` ring 4T is slidably movable vertically inrelation to frame |912 against the pressure 0f' springs 36a which areV stiffer or Stronger than springs 35a and bears yieldingly againstv inner. portions ofthe upper natV surface ofi iron 31d; Sjaid iron lc has a downwardly exposed flat pressing surface adapted in operation to cooperate with outer portions of` said upwardly exposed flat surface of` iron 31d; Pins40 extending through portions of iron IcA have their inner ends projecting into vertical slots 48` in ring 41T. Stop plates 49 close the upper ends of Slots418; and byengaging the inner ends of pins 43 limit the extent of downward movement of ring 4T in relation to frame l9b and iron, I8c caused. by springs 36a.

In utilizing the parts shown in Figures 9A and 10 for the purpose indicated; frame |`9b is moved downwardly by operating lever I2 inthe manner previously described. Initial downward movement brings the pressure of' ring Minto operation against iron 3Id to start the pressing of brim portion 45, Figure 9. Inasmuoh as springs 35a are lighter or weaker than springsl 36a, continued downward movement of frame |.9b causesirons 28d, and Sid to move. downwardly against yielding resistance of` said weaker springs 35a. This carries theoutwardly exposed curl or roll4 portion 43a of the brim downwardly past. rim 46a' of block 46 causing said curl or roll to be bent Vupwardly and inwardly into a position between irons l8c and 3ld. Further downward, movement` of frame leb continues. until both sets of springs 35a andl 36m are. compressed fully or to a predetermined extent, or with the parts relatively positioned as shown in Figure 10. In this position, the heavy springs 34 and the heated, irons exert fixing pressure on the now attened portion of 43a, in` a procedure analogous tothat previously` described. in connection with Figure. 4, for example.

Inthe forms of apparatus shown in Figures 9 and 10, the edges of the irons I8c and 3|d, and of rim4v 46a of block 46, are preferably relievedv or slightly rounded to facilitate operation and to avoid injury to the hat blanks. It will beunderstood that the several types of irons and iron assemblies, hereinabove described as modiiications, will conveniently be operatedfrom lever lf2 and cross head In in substantially the manner previously explainedY in connection with` thev types of irons shown in,- Figure 1; and morecverthat theparticular toggle press shown is not necessary tothevinvention bums-representative of thenum.- erous devicesv for applying pressure,` including crank. presses, screw presses, pneumatic presses, hydraulic presses, impact presses,v etc.

As, various embodiments maybe.v made of the above invention and as changes might be made in the. embodiments above set forth, it is to be understoodv that all matter hereinbefore set forth or shown in the accompanying drawings is tol be interpreted as illustrative and. not in a.4 limiting sensei.

I claim zV 1.f The method of shaping and sizing. thebrim of aghat which includes the steps of bending: an edge portion; of the brim toward the haterown to. form a turned-in rim, applying heat and pressi-ireatpr theY brim between saidrim and the, hat crown, pressing saidV edgeportion of saidinwardly toward another portion of the brim while maintaining pressure on portions of the brim between the rim and the hat crown, and applying heat and pressure to said inturned rim vwhile in saidy inwardly pressed position to hold .saidrrim edge in said inturned position.

2.- The method of shaping and s zing the brim of a'hat which includes the steps of bending an edge portion of the brim toward the hat crown V`to form a turned-in rim, applying yielding pressure to the intermediate portion of the brim between said rim and the hat crown, pressing an edge -portion of said rim inwardly toward said intermediate portion of the brim while maintaining pressure thereon, applying yielding pressure to said inwardly pressed portion of said rim while increasing the pressure on said intermediate portion, and applying greater yielding pressure to said rim and said intermediate portions of the brim.

Y. 3..'Ihe method of shaping and sizing the brim of a hat having a turned-in rim which includes the steps ofapplying initially light pressure to intermediate portions of the brim between said rim and the crown, pressuring said rim inwardly toward the hat crown while maintaining pressure on portions of the brim between the rim and the crown, applying increasing pressure to said intermediate portions, applying initial pressure to` said rim portions greater than the initial pressure applied to the intermediate portions, and 'applying increased pressure simultaneously to said rim and said intermediate portions.

4. Apparatus for shaping and sizing hat brims having turned-in rims comprising in combination a first iron arranged and adapted to engage and press one face of those portions of a hat brim intermediate its rim and the crown, a second iron mounted to cooperate with said first iron and arranged and adapted to engage and press theopposite face of said portions, a third iron mounted to cooperate with said second iron and arranged and adapted to engage and press said turned-inrim portion of said brim inwardly, a brim perimeter size determining member mounted to cooperate with said irons and arranged and adapted to engage said turned-in rim portion when said intermediate portion of the brim is engaged between said first iron and said second iron, relatively yielding spring means operatively interposed between said rst iron and said brim perimeter size determining member, spring means relatively stiffer than said yielding spring means operatively interposed between said second iron and said third iron, and means arranged and adapted to effect movement of said irons into effective pressing engagement with a hat brim. 5.V lApparatus for shaping and sizing hat brims having turned-in rims comprising in combination a first-iron arranged and adapted to engage and press one face of those portions of a hat brim intermediate its rim Vand the crownV a brim perimeter size determining member mounted in sliding engagement withA said first iron, spring means operatively interposed between said first iron and said size determining member, a secondironarranged and adapted to engage and press the opposite face of said brim portions, a tliird iron arranged and adapted to engage and press said turned-in rim inwardly andv` mounted slidingeng'agernent with said second iron, spring means operatively interposed between said 'second iron and said third iron, and iron moving means arranged and adapted to effect brim' and rim engaging and pressing relative movement between said irons.

6. Apparatus for shaping and sizing hat brims having turned-in rims comprising in combination, a first iron having a brim engaging surface, a second iron having a brim engaging surface spaced from and disposed opposite said first mentioned brim engaging surface, one of said irons having a rim engaging surface, a brim size determining member mounted in operative relation to peripheral portions of said first and second irons and movable in a direction across the space between said irons, a third iron mounted in operative relation to one of said rst mentioned irons and having a rim engaging surface spaced from and disposed opposite said rim engaging surface of said other iron, and means arranged and adapted to actuate said irons and said brim size determining member to bring said member and said opposed surfaces of said irons into and out of brim and rim engaging relation.

7. Apparatus according to claim 6 and wherein spring means are interposed between said rst and second irons and between one of said first and second irons and said brim size determiningmember.

8. Apparatus according to claim 6 and including spring means arranged and adapted to nor- -mally bias said third iron from one of said nrst and second irons, and spring means arranged and adapted to normally bias said brim size determining member from the other of said first and second irons, said actuating means including spring means operatively interposed between a movable portion thereof and said irons.

9. Apparatus for shaping and sizing hat brims having turned-in rims comprising in combina* tion, a brim size determining member having a hollow portion, a rst iron slidably mounted in telescoping relation thereto and adapted to be moved between extended and retracted positions therein, said iron having `an exposed brim engaging surface, spring means positioned to nor mally bias said iron in extended position in said hollow portion, a second iron having a brim engaging surface exposed in one direction and a rim engaging surface exposed inV a different direction, a third iron having a rim engaging surface exposed opposite said rim engaging surface of the second iron and mounted in telescoping sliding relation to a portion of said second iron, one of said second and third irons beingrmovable in relation to the other to move one of saidl rim engaging surfaces toward and from `the other, spring means positioned and adapted to bias said second and third irons in a direction tending to bring one of said rim engaging surface of the other, and actuating means for bringing said irons and said member into effective hat brim and rim engaging relation.

GANDOLEO CIPRIANO.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the le of this patent:

" UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,99l,921 Cipriano Feb. 19, 1935

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