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US2431404A - Shoe sewing machine - Google Patents

Shoe sewing machine Download PDF

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US2431404A
US2431404A US624680A US62468045A US2431404A US 2431404 A US2431404 A US 2431404A US 624680 A US624680 A US 624680A US 62468045 A US62468045 A US 62468045A US 2431404 A US2431404 A US 2431404A
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needle
thread
horn
work
loop
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US624680A
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Clyde L Knott
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United Shoe Machinery Corp
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United Shoe Machinery Corp
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B15/00Machines for sewing leather goods
    • D05B15/02Shoe sewing machines
    • D05B15/04Shoe sewing machines for lock-stitch work

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to improvements in McKay shoe sewing machines of the type illustrated and described in United States Letters Patent No. 2,094,030, granted September 28, 1937, upon an application of Laurence E. Topham, and No. 2,159,166, granted May 23, 1939, upon an application of the present inventor, and in an application for United States Letters Patent Serial No. 572,119, filed January 10, 1945, in the name of the present inventor, in which there is employed a straight hook needle and a rotatable shoe supporting horn having a thread finger for measuring the length of thread between the work and the needle during each sewing cycle to insure that the threaded needle will pass easily through the work without causing the thread to slide through the needle hook.
  • the present invention is intended as an improvement of the machines referred to, certain features of the invention are of more general application and may be employed to advantage in sewing machines other than those of the straight needle or McKay types.
  • the horn is not only equipped with a needle threading looper but also with a thread finger rotating with the horn and, in order to prevent improper presentation of the thread to the needle by the looper.
  • the needle is turned in each sewing cycle before looping operations from a position in which the open hook faces away from the completed stitches to a position corresponding to the angular position of the horn.
  • objects of the present invention are to provide a sewing machine of the McKay type in which the open hook of the needle may be positioned angularly in the most desirable relationship with the other stitch forming devices for easy and satisfactory manipulation of the thread during the formation of each stitch and, more generally, an object of the invention is to improve the construction and mode of operation of lockstitch straight hook needle shoe sewing machines whether of the McKay or other types.
  • an important feature of the invention consists in the provision in a McKay type shoe sewing machine having a rotary work supporting horn and the usual stitch forming devices including a loop taker and locking thread supply means, of a straight hook needle arranged to operate with its open hook in a new angular position not according to the usual practice when the needle is disengaged from the work, in which new position, the needle hook faces toward the stitches previously inserted in the seam, so that during feed and action of the loop taker in receiving the loop of thread from the needle, the loop moves away from the needle in the same direction in which the locp'is originally removed from the needle hook.
  • the mechanism for turning the needle brings the needle from the new position during removal of the needle loop int-o uniform angular relation to the thread finger in the horn.
  • the loop taker of the present machine while engaging each loop of needle thread moves it in the direction of work feed while carrying the loop about the locking thread supply and, to facilitate easy removal of each needle loop from the needle hook, the present machine is equipped with a loop spreader having a loop entering point acting in the same direction in which the hook of the needle faces while opening a loop of thread for entry of the loop taker.
  • the machine of the application above identified is provided with locking thread measuring pull-Orr and thread iock devices and suitable mechanism for controlling the amount of locking thread measured in proportion to the lengths of feed and thicknesses of material operated upon.
  • Such an arrangement ordinarily is advantageous for a lockstitch sewing machine of the McKay type having a rotary work supporting horn in which a stitch setting needle thread lock is provided in the horn inasmuch as an extreme1y long length of needle thread is required inside the horn between the thread lock and the work. Consequently, irregularities of stretch in the needle thread between the lock and the work may cause marked imperfections in the stitches.
  • the locking thread pull-off and lock devices of the machine disclosed in the inventor's patent act upon the locking thread close to the surface of the work opposite to the horn, thus preventing substantial variation in the position of each completed stitch in the Work as a result of ii'- regularities in the degree to which the thread may stretch between the pull-off devices and the work.
  • the needle looper and thread finger together with the take-up are actuated through suitable connections with a shaft driven by a set of difierential gears within the rotary work supporting horn of the machine and, according to a further feature of the present invention, a needle thread lock against which each stitch is set is also mounted within the horn closer to the work than heretofore and is actuated from the same shaft as the take-up and other devices, preferably by a cam adjustably secured on the shaft.
  • Fig. 1 is a view in front elevation of the upper portion of a shoe sewing machine embodying the features of the present invention
  • Fig. 2 is a front detail view on a somewhat enlarged scale of the stitch forming devices surrounding the sewing point of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1;
  • Fig. 3 is a plan view on a still further enlarged scale of certain of the operating parts of the machine indicating their relationship to the work operated upon;
  • Fig. 4 is a view in side elevation and in section of the same parts taken along the line IV-IV of Fig. 3;
  • Fig. 5 is a view in rear elevation and in section of the same parts of the machine
  • Fig. 6 is an enlarged view in vertical section of the rotary shoe supporting horn in the machine.
  • Fig. 7 is a detail 'view on the same scale, partly broken away and in section, of a portion of the horn looking from the left of Fig. 6, particularly illustrating the stitch setting thread lock and actuating mechanism.
  • the machine herein disclosed as embodying the features of the present invention is a heavily constructed McKay type shoe sewing machine similar in many respects to that disclosed in the patent to Topharn and in inventors prior patent and applic'ation above referred to.
  • the present machine is not equipped with a shuttle thread measuring mechanism as is the machine of inventors prior application, and in the present machine each stitch is 'set within the substance of the work against the clamping action of a thread lock, to be described hereinafter, con-' tained within a rotary shoe supporting horn, indicated at !0.
  • the stitch forming devices of the machine comprise a straight hook needle l2, a rotating and reciprocating needle bar l3 at the lower end of which the needle is clamped, a rotating and reciprocating looper 14 (see Fig.
  • a thread finger I5 mounted within the horn, a thread finger I5 also within the horn, a loop taker in the form of a shuttle l8, and a locking thread supply case 20 within the shuttle, the work being retained in sewing position on the horn during operation of the machine by a work clamping presser foot 22.
  • the work is fed in the present machine by a work penetrating curved awl 24, actuated by mechanism similar to that disclosed in the prior application. During each feeding movement of the awl, the work is moved to bring the awl perforation formed therein into line with the needle.
  • Prior machines of the present type have been provided with a rotary whirl at the tip of the horn and do not have a thread finger.
  • the sewing operations are performed in such machines with the needle arranged with its open hook facing away from the stitches previously inserted and toward the awl 24.
  • the purpose of arranging the needle with its hook facing in this direction is to assist the whirl in laying the thread within the needle hook during each looping operation.
  • the whirl acts to lay the thread within the hook of the needle the thread is carried directly from a stitch previously formed in the work and around the shank of the needle while its hooked end enters a needle receiving opening similar to that indicated in Fig. 6 at 25 in the tip of the horn.
  • the hooked end of the needle remains inside the horn for a sufiicient length of time for the whirl to carry the thread around the needle shank, a tension being applied to the thread during looping operations to obtain satisfactory results.
  • the application of tension to the thread during rotation of the whirl causes the thread to be tightened between the last formed stitch and the whirl, a U-shaped loop of thread engaging along its bight portion the shank of the needle. If the needle is disposed with its open hook facing away from the stitches previously inserted in the work, the full tension on the thread will act in a direction to cause the thread to be drawn with certainty into the needle hook as the needle begins to retract from the horn.
  • the needle is arranged in a machine not having a thread finger, in a position facing toward the stitches previously formed in a seam, the tension on the thread during looping will not draw the thread into the needle hook. Even if the needle is disposed in an intermediate position with its hook facing approximately 90 to the seam line, ineffective looping operations will result, particularly when the direction of sewing is changed abruptly. If an attempt is made to retain the needle in looping position while the whirl rotates more than 180, the thread will be wound about the needle to such an extent as will cause it to enter the hook twice or to become stranded on the barb of the hook.
  • the needle l2 of the illustrated machine is clamped to the needle bar H3 in the manner indicated previously as comprising a feature of the present invention, with its open hook when disengaged from the work facing in the direction of work feed toward the stitches already inserted and away from the work feeding awl 2:; without detracting from the accuracy and certainty with which the thread is laid in the needle hook during each stitch form ing cycle of operations.
  • the needle is turned during its descending stroke into a uniform position relative to the horn for looping.
  • Such an arrangement of the needle in a machine similar to that in the prior application is advantageous, not only in looping the needle but also in causing the loop of thread withdrawn from the work by the needle to be disengaged from the needle just before the 100p is transferred to the other stitch forming devices, including the loop taker or shuttle.
  • a contributing factor to the success and certainty of looping operations in a machine employing a needle arranged with its open hook, when disengaged from the work, facing toward the stitches already inserted, is the use of the thread finger l6 operating within the horn and a needle which is turned during its reciprocation between the position with its hook facing the previous stitches and a position in proper angular relation to the thread finger in the horn to insure looping,
  • the thread finger, as well as the looper in the present machine maintain the same relationships to each other and to the horn regardless of the rotary position of the horn and the rapidity with which the horn is rotated.
  • the present thread finger IS in the horn moves with the horn about its rotary axis, holding aside a loop of measured thread between each lastformed stitch in the work and the looper.
  • the needle of the illustrated machine is caused to turn as it penetrates the work and enters the tip of the horn at a position with its hook facing away from the thread finger in the horn regardless of the angular position of the horn about its rotary axis.
  • the angular position of the needle is changed to a new position to correspond with that of the thread finger in the horn during looping operations. Since the portion of thread which engages the needle in the present machine is not stretched directly between the last-formed stitch in the work and the needle but is first engaged with the thread finger, the thread finger rotating with the horn about its rotary axis, it is no longer necessary to maintain the needle during looping with its open hook facing in any predetermined relationship to the work.
  • the needle is turned about its longitudinal axis during its reciprocating stroke in one direction or the other from a fixed, neutral angular position in which no turning movement is imparted to the needle to a position removed from the neutral position, the neutral angular position of the needle being determined by a predetermined angular or focus position of the horn, to be referred to hereinafter.
  • the difference in turning movement between the needle and the horn as the needle enters the tip of the horn is not sufficient to prevent proper looping where the looper rotates as in the .later patent. No turning movement is required of the needle in the neutral position of the horn of the prior application when the upper inclined part of the horn is located directly beneath the line of stitches previously inserted.
  • the construction of the horn employed in the present illustrated machine is arranged similar to that of the prior machine but with the parts disposed oppositely as a reflection in a mirror, mere angular rotation of the horn with respect to the rotary driving connections therefor being insufficient to give the desired results.
  • the horn in is arranged as illustrated in Fig. 6 of the drawings so that all of the horn parts in the prior application are in the same relation except for a reversal of position. This is true of all the parts except for a helical driving gear, to be described more fully hereinafter, and a hollow vertical horn drive shaft 2! which, although being of the same construction as in the machine of the application, rotates in the same direction as in that machine rather than in the opposite direction as would be required of a construction forming a true reflection.
  • a helical driving gear to be described more fully hereinafter
  • a hollow vertical horn drive shaft 2! which, although being of the same construction as in the machine of the application, rotates in the same direction as in that machine rather than in the opposite direction as would be required of a construction forming a true reflection.
  • Figs. 3 to 5 the needle is shown in a position fully retracted from the work and in its highest position during transfer of a needle loop to the shuttle. This is the position of the needle when the horn is in its neutral angular or focus position, in which no turning movement is imparted to the needle.
  • the loop carried by the needle when retracted is disengaged by a loop lifter 23 acting with a swinging movement between the sides of the loop beneath the extreme point of the needle.
  • the loop lifter 26 as in the machine of the application, is pointed and of wedge shape to facilitate entry into the loop beneath the needle and is grooved to enable it to surround the point of the needle after entering the loop so that the loop may be disengaged readily from the needle hook and lifted clear of the needle.
  • the lifter swings through an are centered about a horizontal oscillating shaft 28 at the right side of the needle so located that, as the thread engaging end of the lifter passes from below the needle to the position illustrated in Fig. 5, it disengages the loop from the needle and swings it laterally clear of the open needle hook and away from the needle in the direction of Work feed.
  • the time required for disengaging the loop from the needle is shortened and, accordingly, more time may be employed for movements of others of the stitch forming devices with consequent advantage in providing easy motions to the parts without the undesirable effects of rapid accelerations or decelerations.
  • each loop is entered by a loop spreader 39 similar to that of the prior application shaped at its forward end with a point which faces in the same direction as the hook of the needle, to the left of the machine as viewed from the front, or toward the stitches of a seam previously inserted during continued sewing operations.
  • the point of the loop spreader is moved in a circuitous path, entering between the sides of the needle loop supported on the lifter to cause the point to carry the rearward side of the loop into the path of the shuttle where it is picked up by the shuttle during its rotation, and the transfer of the loop from the needle is thus completed.
  • Fig. 2 it is apparent, from a standpoint of the general organization of the machine with the needle acting to enter each awl perforation in the work in alinement with. the opening 25 at the tip of the horn, the awl being arranged to operate a stitch length from the needle at the right side of the needle opposite to the completed stitches in a seam and the shuttle being arranged at the left side of the needle above the completed stitches in the seam, that, during transfer of the loop from the needle to the shuttle, the most effective thread handling can be accomplished by arranging the open hook of the needle facing substantially in the direction of the shuttle and toward the completed stitches. With this location of the needle hook, the loop is readily cleared from the needle hook by the shuttle with the loop moving away from the needle in the same direction at all times, and all possibility of the loop becoming stranded on the hook of the needle is avoided.
  • the thread look within the horn l0 against which each stitch is set comprises a pair of flanged sleeve members 34 and 36 mounted upon a horizontal shaft- 38 passing through an opening 39 in the right side Wall of the horn as viewed in Fig. 7.
  • the flanged member 34 has its sleeve portion surrounding one end of the shaft and, together with the shaft, the sleeve portion is secured in one side wall of the horn by a cap screw 40 passing through an opening in the sleeve portion of the member 34 and the shaft 38.
  • the screw 40 extends into an alined threaded passage in the horn to clamp the parts in fixed relationship.
  • the flanged member 34 carries a pin 4!
  • the member 34 also has a shouldered portion contacting the inner wall of a longitudinal space 42 in the horn and a circular recess to receive a projecting portion 43 of the flange member 36, the thread being clamped by the adjacent faces of the flange members, and the projecting portion 43 preventing the thread from becoming wedged between either flange member and the shaft 38.
  • the sleeve portion of the flange member 36 thus slides on the shaft 38 and carries a collar 4'4 acted upon by a spring 46 compressed between the collar and a nut 48 threaded to one end of the shaft 38.
  • the spring 46 urges the flange member 36 toward the member 34 to clamp and lock the thread against movement, particularly during the application of a stitch settin tension to the thread.
  • the nut 43 is shaped to fit an opening in the left side of the horn as viewed in Fig. 7, thus serving as a support for that end of the shaft 38.
  • each stitch is set by a take-up 50, in the form of an arm, rotatably mounted on the sleeve member 34 and actuated through link-and-crank connections to a continuously rotating shaft 52 mounted in bearings within the side walls of the horn.
  • the crankshaft 52 is rotated through gear-driven connections similar to those described in inventors patent and application, including a differential planetary drive arranged to nullify the effect on the take-up and other devices driven from the shaft 52 from movement of the horn about its rotary axis.
  • the driven member of the planetary drive comprises a helical gear 53 meshing with a similar gear 54 on the crankshaft 52.
  • the teeth on the gear 53 are inclined in the same direction as those on the corresponding gear (6l6 in the application machine) to cause the crankshaft to rotate in the same direction as in the machine of the application.
  • the collar 44 is engaged at either side of the shaft 38 by forked portions on one arm of a lever 55 fulcrumed on a shouldered screw 56 supported within the horn, and the lever carries at its lower end a roll 58 engaging a radial face of a cam disk 63 adjustably secured to the crankshaft 52.
  • the shaft has a flange 62 with a threaded opening for receiving a clamp screw 64 passing through an arcuate slot in the cam 60. The arrangement is such that, when the clamp screw 64 is loosened, the cam may be rotated, with respect to the shaft, through an angle limited by the length of the slot. Thus, the time at which the thread lock grips the thread may be changed with different sewing adjustments of the machine.
  • the shaft 52 at its end adjacent to the cam 68 rotates in a bearing provided in a cup-shaped plate 56 fitted within an opening in the side wall of the horn, of greater diameter than the diameter of the cam 68, so that the shaft together with the cam as a single unit may be introduced within the horn.
  • the plate 58 is perforated at 68 at a location which will be alined with the screw when the machine is brought to rest.
  • a McKay type of lockstitch shoe sewing machine having a rotary work supporting horn and stitch forming devices including a loop taker and locking thread supply means, in combination with a straight hook needle arranged with its open hook when disengaged from the work facing toward the stitches previously inserted in a seam.
  • a McKay type of lockstitch shoe sewing machine having a rotary work supporting horn and stitch forming devices including a loop taker, locking thread supply means, and a work penetrating member acting to feed the work toward the sewing point, in combination with a straight hook needle arranged with its open hook when disengaged from the work facing away from the penetrating and feeding member.
  • a McKay type of lockstitch shoe sewing machine having a rotary work supporting horn, stitch forming devices including a loop taker, locking thread supply means, a needle looper, a thread finger mounted in the horn to rotate with the horn, and a straight hook needle arranged with its open hook when disengaged from the work facing toward the stitches previously inserted in a seam, in combination with mechanism for turning the needle as the needle enters the horn to bring the needle into a uniform angular relation to the thread finger before the looper lays the thread in the needle book.
  • a McKay type of lockstitch shoe sewing machine having a rotary work supporting horn and stitch forming and work feeding devices including locking thread supply means and a loop taker acting to carry loops of thread about the locking thread supply means in the direction of work feed, in combination with a straight hook needle arranged with its open hook when disengaged from the work facing also in the direction of work feed toward the stitches previously inserted in a seam.
  • a McKay type of lockstitch shoe sewing machine having a rotary work supporting horn and stitch forming and work feeding devices including locking thread supply means, a loop taker acting to carry loops of thread about the locking thread supply means in the direction of work feed, and a straight hook needle arranged with its open hook when disengaged from the work facing also in the direction of work feed toward the stitches previously inserted in a seam, in combination with a loop spreader having a loop entering point acting in the same direction in which the hook of the needle faces while entering each loop of thread carried by the needle to open the loop for the loop taker.
  • a lockstitch shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices including a straight hook needle, a work feeding member, a loop taker, and locking thread supply means about which the loop taker passes loops of needle thread in forming successive stitches, the needle, feeding member and loop taker being at the same side of the work, in combination with a needle bar to which the needle is clamped with its open hook facing when disengaged from the work toward the stitches previously inserted in a seam.
  • a lockstitch shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices including a straight hook needle, a work feeding member, a loop taker, locking thread supply means about which the loop taker passes loops of needle thread in forming successive stitches, the needle, feeding member and loop taker being at the same side of the work, and a needle looper, in combination with mechanism for actuating the needle toward and from the work and for causing the needle to be turned about its lengthwise axis to a position, when disengaged from the work, facing the stitches previously inserted in a seam and, during operation of the looper, facing a different angular position.
  • a shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices including a straight hook needle, a shoe supporting horn rotatably mounted in the machine and formed with a needle receiving opening at its tip, other stitch forming devices in the horn including a needle looper at the tip of the horn, a take-up, a thread finger, and a thread lock against which each stitch is set, in combination with mechanism for actuating the take-up, thread finger and thread lock, comprising a shaft within the horn, and connections between the shaft and the thread lock.
  • a shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices including a straight hook needle, a shoe supporting horn rotatably mounted in the machine and formed with a needle receiving opening at its tip, other stitch forming devices in the horn including a needle looper at the tip of the horn, a take-up, a thread finger, and a thread lock against which each stitch is set, in combination with mechanism for actuating the take-up, thread finger and thread lock, comprising a shaft within the horn, a cam on said shaft, and a cam lever engaging the cam for opening the thread look after each stitch is set.
  • a shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices including a straight hook needle, a shoe supporting horn rotatably mounted in the machine and formed with a needle receiving opening at its tip, other stitch forming devices in the horn including a needle looper at the tip of the horn, a take-up, a thread finger, and a thread lock against which each stitch is set, in combination with mechanism for actuating the take-up, thread finger and thread lock, comprising a shaft within the horn, a removable plate having a bearing for the shaft in the horn, a cam on the shaft adjacent to the plate, a lever operated by the cam for opening the thread lock after each stitch is set, and clamping means accessible through said plate for securing the cam adjustably to the shaft to enable the timing of the thread lock to be changed.

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  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

Nov. 25,1947. I c. -L. KNOTT 2,431,404
' snon snwme MACHINE Filed 001;. 26, 1945 s sheets-sheet 1 2&
- 'Nov. 25, 1947. c. L. KNOTT SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed 0ct. 26, 1 945 s Sheets-Sheet 2 Nov. 25, 194-7. 0. L. KNOTT SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 26, 1945 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 llllllll ll IIII Patented Nov. 25, 1947 SHOE SEWING MACHNE Clyde L. Knott, Beverly, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. 5., a corporation of New Jersey Application October 26, 1945, Serial No. 624,680
Claims.
The present invention relates to improvements in McKay shoe sewing machines of the type illustrated and described in United States Letters Patent No. 2,094,030, granted September 28, 1937, upon an application of Laurence E. Topham, and No. 2,159,166, granted May 23, 1939, upon an application of the present inventor, and in an application for United States Letters Patent Serial No. 572,119, filed January 10, 1945, in the name of the present inventor, in which there is employed a straight hook needle and a rotatable shoe supporting horn having a thread finger for measuring the length of thread between the work and the needle during each sewing cycle to insure that the threaded needle will pass easily through the work without causing the thread to slide through the needle hook. Although the present invention is intended as an improvement of the machines referred to, certain features of the invention are of more general application and may be employed to advantage in sewing machines other than those of the straight needle or McKay types.
In the straight needle McKay types of shoe sewing machine having, besides a loop taker and other usual stitch forming devices, a rotatable horn and a needle looper acting at the tip of the horn to lay the thread in the hook of the needle, it has been the practice heretofore to arrange the needle, when disengaged from the work, with its open hook facing along the line of the seam opposite to the side of the completed stitches. For this reason, it is necessary to remove each loop carried by the needle from the needle hook by movement laterally away from the needle hook in a direction opposing the direction of work feed and thereafter to reverse the direction of movement of the needle loop during feed and while the loop is being acted upon by the loop taker or shuttle. This practice cannot be avoided when the usual methods of handling thread are employed by the looper or needle threading whirl and by the other stitch forming devices in removing the loop of needle thread from the needle. As a result of the reversal in direction of movement in each needle loop after being removed from the needle, there obviously is a greater chance for the loop to become entangled or stranded on other parts of the machine than where such reversal of movement does not take place.
In the machines of the patents and application above referred to, the horn is not only equipped with a needle threading looper but also with a thread finger rotating with the horn and, in order to prevent improper presentation of the thread to the needle by the looper. the needle is turned in each sewing cycle before looping operations from a position in which the open hook faces away from the completed stitches to a position corresponding to the angular position of the horn. When the threaded needle has been retracted from the horn and disengaged from the work, it is returned to its original angular position which is fixed with relation to the other stitch forming devices. As a result of the provision of mechanism for turning the needle, it is possible to regulate the relationship between the angular position of the needle hook during looping and when disengaged from the work to suit the best conditions of machine operation. Accordingly, the restrictions in arrangements of the stitch forming devices made in an ordinary prior art type of McKay sewing machine are not the same as those in the type of McKay sewing machine disclosed in the above patents and application.
For the simplest and most efiective operation while removing each loop of thread from the needle in a McKay sewing machine after the needle is disengaged from the work, it has been found that the best results are obtained with the least possible opportunity of entanglement or displacement of the threads, particularly in a lockstitch machine, when the position of the open hook of the needle is not arranged according to the usual McKay type sewing machine practice, and objects of the present invention are to provide a sewing machine of the McKay type in which the open hook of the needle may be positioned angularly in the most desirable relationship with the other stitch forming devices for easy and satisfactory manipulation of the thread during the formation of each stitch and, more generally, an object of the invention is to improve the construction and mode of operation of lockstitch straight hook needle shoe sewing machines whether of the McKay or other types.
With these and other objects in view, an important feature of the invention consists in the provision in a McKay type shoe sewing machine having a rotary work supporting horn and the usual stitch forming devices including a loop taker and locking thread supply means, of a straight hook needle arranged to operate with its open hook in a new angular position not according to the usual practice when the needle is disengaged from the work, in which new position, the needle hook faces toward the stitches previously inserted in the seam, so that during feed and action of the loop taker in receiving the loop of thread from the needle, the loop moves away from the needle in the same direction in which the locp'is originally removed from the needle hook. In this way, there is less opportunity for the loop to become stranded or entangled with the needle or with other parts of the adjacent stitch forming devices than there is when the loop is removed from'the needle in one direction and then its movement reversed in the opposite direction by the loop taker and feed as in prior machines.
The advantages of arranging the needle in this new position with its hook facing toward the 3 completed stitches of the seam during removal of the needle loop are of further benefit when the work feeding means comprises a work penetrating instrument operating at the same side.
of the work with the needle to feed the work toward the needle. If the open hook of the nee= dle in the new position faces toward the completed stitches of a seam, the Work feeding and penetrating instrument is located at the oppo= site side of the needle shank from its hook, the loop thereby being guarded during removal by the shank of the needle from accidental contact with the work feeding instrument. In the illus-'- trated form of this feature, the mechanism for turning the needle brings the needle from the new position during removal of the needle loop int-o uniform angular relation to the thread finger in the horn.
As in prior machines, the loop taker of the present machine while engaging each loop of needle thread moves it in the direction of work feed while carrying the loop about the locking thread supply and, to facilitate easy removal of each needle loop from the needle hook, the present machine is equipped with a loop spreader having a loop entering point acting in the same direction in which the hook of the needle faces while opening a loop of thread for entry of the loop taker. Thus, while the needle loop is being carried about the locking thread by the loop taker, it is readily disengaged from both the needle and the loop spreader.
The machine of the application above identified is provided with locking thread measuring pull-Orr and thread iock devices and suitable mechanism for controlling the amount of locking thread measured in proportion to the lengths of feed and thicknesses of material operated upon. Such an arrangement ordinarily is advantageous for a lockstitch sewing machine of the McKay type having a rotary work supporting horn in which a stitch setting needle thread lock is provided in the horn inasmuch as an extreme1y long length of needle thread is required inside the horn between the thread lock and the work. Consequently, irregularities of stretch in the needle thread between the lock and the work may cause marked imperfections in the stitches. The locking thread pull-off and lock devices of the machine disclosed in the inventor's patent act upon the locking thread close to the surface of the work opposite to the horn, thus preventing substantial variation in the position of each completed stitch in the Work as a result of ii'- regularities in the degree to which the thread may stretch between the pull-off devices and the work.
In the machine of the patents and applications above referred to, the needle looper and thread finger together with the take-up are actuated through suitable connections with a shaft driven by a set of difierential gears within the rotary work supporting horn of the machine and, according to a further feature of the present invention, a needle thread lock against which each stitch is set is also mounted within the horn closer to the work than heretofore and is actuated from the same shaft as the take-up and other devices, preferably by a cam adjustably secured on the shaft. Thus, the use of a com plete separate look actuating mechanism is avoided.
The several features of the present invention and the advantages obtained thereby will be readily understood from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings illustrating one embodiment of the invention.
In the drawings,
Fig. 1 is a view in front elevation of the upper portion of a shoe sewing machine embodying the features of the present invention;
Fig. 2 is a front detail view on a somewhat enlarged scale of the stitch forming devices surrounding the sewing point of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1;
Fig. 3 is a plan view on a still further enlarged scale of certain of the operating parts of the machine indicating their relationship to the work operated upon;
Fig. 4 is a view in side elevation and in section of the same parts taken along the line IV-IV of Fig. 3;
Fig. 5 is a view in rear elevation and in section of the same parts of the machine;
Fig. 6 is an enlarged view in vertical section of the rotary shoe supporting horn in the machine; and
Fig. 7 is a detail 'view on the same scale, partly broken away and in section, of a portion of the horn looking from the left of Fig. 6, particularly illustrating the stitch setting thread lock and actuating mechanism.
The machine herein disclosed as embodying the features of the present invention is a heavily constructed McKay type shoe sewing machine similar in many respects to that disclosed in the patent to Topharn and in inventors prior patent and applic'ation above referred to. The present machine is not equipped with a shuttle thread measuring mechanism as is the machine of inventors prior application, and in the present machine each stitch is 'set within the substance of the work against the clamping action of a thread lock, to be described hereinafter, con-' tained within a rotary shoe supporting horn, indicated at !0. The stitch forming devices of the machine comprise a straight hook needle l2, a rotating and reciprocating needle bar l3 at the lower end of which the needle is clamped, a rotating and reciprocating looper 14 (see Fig. 6) mounted within the horn, a thread finger I5 also within the horn, a loop taker in the form of a shuttle l8, and a locking thread supply case 20 within the shuttle, the work being retained in sewing position on the horn during operation of the machine by a work clamping presser foot 22. The work is fed in the present machine by a work penetrating curved awl 24, actuated by mechanism similar to that disclosed in the prior application. During each feeding movement of the awl, the work is moved to bring the awl perforation formed therein into line with the needle.
Prior machines of the present type have been provided with a rotary whirl at the tip of the horn and do not have a thread finger. The sewing operations are performed in such machines with the needle arranged with its open hook facing away from the stitches previously inserted and toward the awl 24. The purpose of arranging the needle with its hook facing in this direction is to assist the whirl in laying the thread within the needle hook during each looping operation. When the whirl acts to lay the thread within the hook of the needle the thread is carried directly from a stitch previously formed in the work and around the shank of the needle while its hooked end enters a needle receiving opening similar to that indicated in Fig. 6 at 25 in the tip of the horn. The hooked end of the needle remains inside the horn for a sufiicient length of time for the whirl to carry the thread around the needle shank, a tension being applied to the thread during looping operations to obtain satisfactory results. The application of tension to the thread during rotation of the whirl causes the thread to be tightened between the last formed stitch and the whirl, a U-shaped loop of thread engaging along its bight portion the shank of the needle. If the needle is disposed with its open hook facing away from the stitches previously inserted in the work, the full tension on the thread will act in a direction to cause the thread to be drawn with certainty into the needle hook as the needle begins to retract from the horn. If the needle is arranged in a machine not having a thread finger, in a position facing toward the stitches previously formed in a seam, the tension on the thread during looping will not draw the thread into the needle hook. Even if the needle is disposed in an intermediate position with its hook facing approximately 90 to the seam line, ineffective looping operations will result, particularly when the direction of sewing is changed abruptly. If an attempt is made to retain the needle in looping position while the whirl rotates more than 180, the thread will be wound about the needle to such an extent as will cause it to enter the hook twice or to become stranded on the barb of the hook.
According to the present invention, the needle l2 of the illustrated machine is clamped to the needle bar H3 in the manner indicated previously as comprising a feature of the present invention, with its open hook when disengaged from the work facing in the direction of work feed toward the stitches already inserted and away from the work feeding awl 2:; without detracting from the accuracy and certainty with which the thread is laid in the needle hook during each stitch form ing cycle of operations. As in the prior patents and application, the needle is turned during its descending stroke into a uniform position relative to the horn for looping. Such an arrangement of the needle in a machine similar to that in the prior application is advantageous, not only in looping the needle but also in causing the loop of thread withdrawn from the work by the needle to be disengaged from the needle just before the 100p is transferred to the other stitch forming devices, including the loop taker or shuttle.
A contributing factor to the success and certainty of looping operations in a machine employing a needle arranged with its open hook, when disengaged from the work, facing toward the stitches already inserted, is the use of the thread finger l6 operating within the horn and a needle which is turned during its reciprocation between the position with its hook facing the previous stitches and a position in proper angular relation to the thread finger in the horn to insure looping, The thread finger, as well as the looper in the present machine, maintain the same relationships to each other and to the horn regardless of the rotary position of the horn and the rapidity with which the horn is rotated. The present thread finger IS in the horn moves with the horn about its rotary axis, holding aside a loop of measured thread between each lastformed stitch in the work and the looper.
As in the machine of the prior application, the needle of the illustrated machine is caused to turn as it penetrates the work and enters the tip of the horn at a position with its hook facing away from the thread finger in the horn regardless of the angular position of the horn about its rotary axis. Thus, the angular position of the needle is changed to a new position to correspond with that of the thread finger in the horn during looping operations. Since the portion of thread which engages the needle in the present machine is not stretched directly between the last-formed stitch in the work and the needle but is first engaged with the thread finger, the thread finger rotating with the horn about its rotary axis, it is no longer necessary to maintain the needle during looping with its open hook facing in any predetermined relationship to the work. It is therefore only necessary to impart sufiicient rotary movement to the looper in laying the loop in the needle hook to complete a loop about the shank of the needle between the thread finger and the looper, both of which in the illustrated machine are located at the tip of the horn.
In the machine of the prior application, the needle is turned about its longitudinal axis during its reciprocating stroke in one direction or the other from a fixed, neutral angular position in which no turning movement is imparted to the needle to a position removed from the neutral position, the neutral angular position of the needle being determined by a predetermined angular or focus position of the horn, to be referred to hereinafter. The difference in turning movement between the needle and the horn as the needle enters the tip of the horn is not sufficient to prevent proper looping where the looper rotates as in the .later patent. No turning movement is required of the needle in the neutral position of the horn of the prior application when the upper inclined part of the horn is located directly beneath the line of stitches previously inserted. With the hook of the needle when disengaged from the work, in the present machine, facing toward stitches previously inserted rather than in the opposite direction, as in the machine of the application, it is necessary to rearrange the controlling connections between the horn and the mechanism for turning the needle in such a way that, when the upper inclined end of the work supporting horn is disposed at the opposite side of the needle from the stitches previously inserted in the work or directly beneath the work feeding awl, no turning movement will be imparted to the needle. To obtain the proper action of the looper and thread finger under these conditions, it is necessary to rotate the looper in exactly the opposite direction from that in which the looper is rotated in the machine of the prior application. Consequently the construction of the horn employed in the present illustrated machine is arranged similar to that of the prior machine but with the parts disposed oppositely as a reflection in a mirror, mere angular rotation of the horn with respect to the rotary driving connections therefor being insufficient to give the desired results.
The horn in is arranged as illustrated in Fig. 6 of the drawings so that all of the horn parts in the prior application are in the same relation except for a reversal of position. This is true of all the parts except for a helical driving gear, to be described more fully hereinafter, and a hollow vertical horn drive shaft 2! which, although being of the same construction as in the machine of the application, rotates in the same direction as in that machine rather than in the opposite direction as would be required of a construction forming a true reflection. To arrange the horn or the operating connections otherwise would cause unreliable transfer from the needle to the shuttle of each loop of thread after being withdrawn from the work.
An important advantage in the use of a hook needle rotary horn type sewing machine arranged with the open hook of its needle facing toward the stitches previously inserted in the work, will be apparent from a consideration of Figs. 2 to 5. inclusive. In Figs. 3 to 5, the needle is shown in a position fully retracted from the work and in its highest position during transfer of a needle loop to the shuttle. This is the position of the needle when the horn is in its neutral angular or focus position, in which no turning movement is imparted to the needle. The loop carried by the needle when retracted is disengaged by a loop lifter 23 acting with a swinging movement between the sides of the loop beneath the extreme point of the needle.
The loop lifter 26, as in the machine of the application, is pointed and of wedge shape to facilitate entry into the loop beneath the needle and is grooved to enable it to surround the point of the needle after entering the loop so that the loop may be disengaged readily from the needle hook and lifted clear of the needle. The lifter swings through an are centered about a horizontal oscillating shaft 28 at the right side of the needle so located that, as the thread engaging end of the lifter passes from below the needle to the position illustrated in Fig. 5, it disengages the loop from the needle and swings it laterally clear of the open needle hook and away from the needle in the direction of Work feed. Thus, the time required for disengaging the loop from the needle is shortened and, accordingly, more time may be employed for movements of others of the stitch forming devices with consequent advantage in providing easy motions to the parts without the undesirable effects of rapid accelerations or decelerations.
After operation of the lifter 26 to disengage the loop from the needle, each loop is entered by a loop spreader 39 similar to that of the prior application shaped at its forward end with a point which faces in the same direction as the hook of the needle, to the left of the machine as viewed from the front, or toward the stitches of a seam previously inserted during continued sewing operations. The point of the loop spreader is moved in a circuitous path, entering between the sides of the needle loop supported on the lifter to cause the point to carry the rearward side of the loop into the path of the shuttle where it is picked up by the shuttle during its rotation, and the transfer of the loop from the needle is thus completed.
Referring more particularly to Fig. 2, it is apparent, from a standpoint of the general organization of the machine with the needle acting to enter each awl perforation in the work in alinement with. the opening 25 at the tip of the horn, the awl being arranged to operate a stitch length from the needle at the right side of the needle opposite to the completed stitches in a seam and the shuttle being arranged at the left side of the needle above the completed stitches in the seam, that, during transfer of the loop from the needle to the shuttle, the most effective thread handling can be accomplished by arranging the open hook of the needle facing substantially in the direction of the shuttle and toward the completed stitches. With this location of the needle hook, the loop is readily cleared from the needle hook by the shuttle with the loop moving away from the needle in the same direction at all times, and all possibility of the loop becoming stranded on the hook of the needle is avoided.
The thread look within the horn l0 against which each stitch is set comprises a pair of flanged sleeve members 34 and 36 mounted upon a horizontal shaft- 38 passing through an opening 39 in the right side Wall of the horn as viewed in Fig. 7. The flanged member 34 has its sleeve portion surrounding one end of the shaft and, together with the shaft, the sleeve portion is secured in one side wall of the horn by a cap screw 40 passing through an opening in the sleeve portion of the member 34 and the shaft 38. The screw 40 extends into an alined threaded passage in the horn to clamp the parts in fixed relationship. The flanged member 34 carries a pin 4! secured at one edge of its flanged portion, and the member 36 is slotted to receive the pin to prevent rotation of the member 36 on the shaft 38. The member 34 also has a shouldered portion contacting the inner wall of a longitudinal space 42 in the horn and a circular recess to receive a projecting portion 43 of the flange member 36, the thread being clamped by the adjacent faces of the flange members, and the projecting portion 43 preventing the thread from becoming wedged between either flange member and the shaft 38. The sleeve portion of the flange member 36 thus slides on the shaft 38 and carries a collar 4'4 acted upon by a spring 46 compressed between the collar and a nut 48 threaded to one end of the shaft 38. The spring 46 urges the flange member 36 toward the member 34 to clamp and lock the thread against movement, particularly during the application of a stitch settin tension to the thread. The nut 43 is shaped to fit an opening in the left side of the horn as viewed in Fig. 7, thus serving as a support for that end of the shaft 38.
As in the machine of inventors application and patent, each stitch is set by a take-up 50, in the form of an arm, rotatably mounted on the sleeve member 34 and actuated through link-and-crank connections to a continuously rotating shaft 52 mounted in bearings within the side walls of the horn. The crankshaft 52 is rotated through gear-driven connections similar to those described in inventors patent and application, including a differential planetary drive arranged to nullify the effect on the take-up and other devices driven from the shaft 52 from movement of the horn about its rotary axis. The driven member of the planetary drive comprises a helical gear 53 meshing with a similar gear 54 on the crankshaft 52. The teeth on the gear 53 are inclined in the same direction as those on the corresponding gear (6l6 in the application machine) to cause the crankshaft to rotate in the same direction as in the machine of the application.
To actuate the thread lock 34, 36, the collar 44 is engaged at either side of the shaft 38 by forked portions on one arm of a lever 55 fulcrumed on a shouldered screw 56 supported within the horn, and the lever carries at its lower end a roll 58 engaging a radial face of a cam disk 63 adjustably secured to the crankshaft 52. To secure the cam 60 to the crankshaft, the shaft has a flange 62 with a threaded opening for receiving a clamp screw 64 passing through an arcuate slot in the cam 60. The arrangement is such that, when the clamp screw 64 is loosened, the cam may be rotated, with respect to the shaft, through an angle limited by the length of the slot. Thus, the time at which the thread lock grips the thread may be changed with different sewing adjustments of the machine.
For purposes of convenience in assembly and simplicity in construction, the shaft 52 at its end adjacent to the cam 68 rotates in a bearing provided in a cup-shaped plate 56 fitted within an opening in the side wall of the horn, of greater diameter than the diameter of the cam 68, so that the shaft together with the cam as a single unit may be introduced within the horn. To provide access to the wrench receiving end of the clamp screw 64, the plate 58 is perforated at 68 at a location which will be alined with the screw when the machine is brought to rest.
Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is:
1. A McKay type of lockstitch shoe sewing machine having a rotary work supporting horn and stitch forming devices including a loop taker and locking thread supply means, in combination with a straight hook needle arranged with its open hook when disengaged from the work facing toward the stitches previously inserted in a seam.
2. A McKay type of lockstitch shoe sewing machine having a rotary work supporting horn and stitch forming devices including a loop taker, locking thread supply means, and a work penetrating member acting to feed the work toward the sewing point, in combination with a straight hook needle arranged with its open hook when disengaged from the work facing away from the penetrating and feeding member.
3. A McKay type of lockstitch shoe sewing machine having a rotary work supporting horn, stitch forming devices including a loop taker, locking thread supply means, a needle looper, a thread finger mounted in the horn to rotate with the horn, and a straight hook needle arranged with its open hook when disengaged from the work facing toward the stitches previously inserted in a seam, in combination with mechanism for turning the needle as the needle enters the horn to bring the needle into a uniform angular relation to the thread finger before the looper lays the thread in the needle book.
4. A McKay type of lockstitch shoe sewing machine having a rotary work supporting horn and stitch forming and work feeding devices including locking thread supply means and a loop taker acting to carry loops of thread about the locking thread supply means in the direction of work feed, in combination with a straight hook needle arranged with its open hook when disengaged from the work facing also in the direction of work feed toward the stitches previously inserted in a seam.
5. A McKay type of lockstitch shoe sewing machine having a rotary work supporting horn and stitch forming and work feeding devices including locking thread supply means, a loop taker acting to carry loops of thread about the locking thread supply means in the direction of work feed, and a straight hook needle arranged with its open hook when disengaged from the work facing also in the direction of work feed toward the stitches previously inserted in a seam, in combination with a loop spreader having a loop entering point acting in the same direction in which the hook of the needle faces while entering each loop of thread carried by the needle to open the loop for the loop taker.
6. A lockstitch shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices including a straight hook needle, a work feeding member, a loop taker, and locking thread supply means about which the loop taker passes loops of needle thread in forming successive stitches, the needle, feeding member and loop taker being at the same side of the work, in combination with a needle bar to which the needle is clamped with its open hook facing when disengaged from the work toward the stitches previously inserted in a seam.
'7. A lockstitch shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices including a straight hook needle, a work feeding member, a loop taker, locking thread supply means about which the loop taker passes loops of needle thread in forming successive stitches, the needle, feeding member and loop taker being at the same side of the work, and a needle looper, in combination with mechanism for actuating the needle toward and from the work and for causing the needle to be turned about its lengthwise axis to a position, when disengaged from the work, facing the stitches previously inserted in a seam and, during operation of the looper, facing a different angular position.
8. A shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices including a straight hook needle, a shoe supporting horn rotatably mounted in the machine and formed with a needle receiving opening at its tip, other stitch forming devices in the horn including a needle looper at the tip of the horn, a take-up, a thread finger, and a thread lock against which each stitch is set, in combination with mechanism for actuating the take-up, thread finger and thread lock, comprising a shaft within the horn, and connections between the shaft and the thread lock.
9. A shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices including a straight hook needle, a shoe supporting horn rotatably mounted in the machine and formed with a needle receiving opening at its tip, other stitch forming devices in the horn including a needle looper at the tip of the horn, a take-up, a thread finger, and a thread lock against which each stitch is set, in combination with mechanism for actuating the take-up, thread finger and thread lock, comprising a shaft within the horn, a cam on said shaft, and a cam lever engaging the cam for opening the thread look after each stitch is set.
10. A shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices including a straight hook needle, a shoe supporting horn rotatably mounted in the machine and formed with a needle receiving opening at its tip, other stitch forming devices in the horn including a needle looper at the tip of the horn, a take-up, a thread finger, and a thread lock against which each stitch is set, in combination with mechanism for actuating the take-up, thread finger and thread lock, comprising a shaft within the horn, a removable plate having a bearing for the shaft in the horn, a cam on the shaft adjacent to the plate, a lever operated by the cam for opening the thread lock after each stitch is set, and clamping means accessible through said plate for securing the cam adjustably to the shaft to enable the timing of the thread lock to be changed.
CLYDE L. KNOTT.
REFERENCES CITED UNITED STATES PATENTS Name Date Keats July 11, 1882 Number
US624680A 1945-10-26 1945-10-26 Shoe sewing machine Expired - Lifetime US2431404A (en)

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Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US260990A (en) * 1882-07-11 Boots and shoes

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US260990A (en) * 1882-07-11 Boots and shoes

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