US2488329A - Apparatus for operating on soles - Google Patents

Description

A. R. RIDDERSTROM APPARATUS FOR OPERATING ON SOLES Nov. 15, 1949 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Original Filed ov. 19, 1941 4 Nov, 15, 1949 A. R. RIDDERSTROM 2,488,329

APPARATUS FOR OPERATING 0N SOLE'S Original Filed Nov. 19, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Nov; 15, 1949 A. R. RIDDERSTROM APPARATUS FOR OPERATING 0N SOLE'S Original Filed Nov. 19, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 Patented Nov. 15, 1949 NITED STATES PAT NT OFFICE APFARATUS FOR OPERATING ON SOLES Andrew R. Ridderstrom, Nahant, Mass, assignor to Prime Manufacturing Company, Lynn, Mass, a corporation of Massachusetts Claims.

This invention relates to apparatus for operating upon shoe soles, and in one aspect comprises improved mechanism for reinforcing soles in acordance with the disclosure of my earlier Patents No. 2,343,226 and No. 2,393,566. The present application is a division of the applications for the patents above identified.

One object of my invention is to provide improved mechanism for forming loop stitches by which ribbing or reinforcing fabric may be secured to such material as sole leather. More specifically, the mechanism of my invention is designed to carry out the operations of forming a series of slanting holes extending partially through a piece of sole leather or insole, depositing successive loops of thread in the holes as formed, and then collapsing the material about the holes upon the thread loops and thus permanently anchoring them in place.

An important feature of my invention comprises on awl movable together with a feed foot in a substantially elliptical path in a portion of which the awl is actuated to form a slanting hole in sole leather, and in another portion of which the feed foot engages the Work and advances it. Cooperating with the aWl and feed foot are a needle, a presser foot and a hammer, these elements functioning to deposit a thread loop in each hole and close or collapse the hole by pressing or beating upon the Work in an area adjacent to the hole.

These and other objects and features of the invention will be best understood and appreciated from the following detailed description of a preferred embodiment thereof selected for purposes of illustration and shown in the acompanying drawing in which,

Figs. 1-3 are views in cross section, on an enlarged scale, through a core and associated strips of tape,

' Fig. 3a is a fragmentary view of a coil of ribbing as supplied by the manufacturer.

Fig. 4 is a view in perspective of an insole embodying the sewing rib of my invention,

Figs. 5-9 are views in side elevation showing the movements of a mechanism for securing the flange of the sewing rib to an insole by stab stitching,

Fig. is a plan view of the mechanism shown in Figs, 5-9,

I needle,

Fig. 13 is a diagram showing the path traveled by the awl,

Fig. 14 is a View in cross-section through an insole embodying a modified form of the invention,

Fig. 15 is a view in cross-section through the toe portion of an insole,

Fig. 16 is a fragmentary view in cross section on an enlarged scale through the toe portion of a modified form of insole.

In order that the features are functions of the mechanisms comprising the invention may be better understood, I shall first describe the shoemaking background in terms of the invention claimed in my copending applications above referred to. A relatively stiff core strip It] made of cardboard or similar tough fibrous material forms the inner element of the particular sewing rib herein shown by way of illustration. To the opposite sides of the core In which is shown in Fig. 1 as substantially rectangular in cross section, is attached by stitching or otherwise a pair of tapes i 2 and I l, one of which is preferably but not necessarily, somewhat thicker and heavier than the other. As herein shown a line of stitching l6 secures the upper margins of the tapes to the core slightly below the center of the latter. The upper half of the core I0 is accordingly uncovered, the lower portions of the tapes l2 and it extending considerably below the lower edge of the core id, as shown in Fig. 1. The inner faces of the tapes i2 and Id are coated with cohesive cement ll, that is, cement which will stick to other cemented surfaces but not to unprepared surfaces.

The tape 12 is then turned or folded upwardly and pressed fiat against the side of the core I0 with its cohesive coating facing outwardly. The result is illustrated in Fig. 3. The ribbing thus formed may, as appears in Fig. 3a, be wound upon a reel to form a coil. Since the cohesive cement coating ll of both the tapes [2 and I4 faces in the same outward direction it will, when coiled, come in contact only with uncoated portions of the ribbing, and will not stick. Otherwise the coil would consist of laminations ce 3 mentecl together, and it would be impossible to unroll the tape from it. It will be obvious that cohesive cement must be used, since an adhesive cement would defeat the purpose of the it ivention.

Laying the 'rib When the coiled ribbing is to be used, it is fed through a machine which first directs the core I in upright position to the insole blank, as shown in Fig. 2, also turning the tapes I2 and M to form two opposed base flanges perpendicular to the core i0, and then lays the rib along the margin of the insole 228, which has previously been coated with cohesive cement. The cement ll of the ribbing and the cement on the insole 20 form a firm bond permanently securing the base flanges of the tapes to the insole with the core l0 held between them in upright position. It will be evident that the cement holds the flanges of the tapes to the insole -23, but since no cement is applied to the core it, it is the stitching it which holds the core it, through the medium of the tape, securely to the insole and in upright position. After an upper has been lasted to the insole by lasting tacks, staples, or other means, the upper is sewn to the rib, using the conventional curved needle which forms a seam running along the base of the rib beneath the line of the stitching hi. Subsequently the overlasted edge of the upper and the upper portion of the rib are trimmed off.

It is to be understood that instead of using two separate tapes, a single tape may be used which carries over the top of the core it and extends down on either side of it. However, this is usually a more wasteful process than the preferred process heretofore described in view of the fact that most of the portion of the single tape which extends above the line of stitching is always trimmed off later on in the shoemaking process. Furthermore, when two tapes are used, in manufacturing the ribbing, the upper portion of the core Ill may be received between guide members which register the core with respect to the two pieces of tape and thus ensure that the tapes will be stitched to the core precisely along a predetermined line. Such precision is impossible when a single piece of folded tape is used and experience has shown that it is very diflicult to lay a single piece of tape about a core at high speed and with such accuracy that the width of the base iianges is held to a uniform dimension. There is also the additional advantage when separate tapes are used of being able to employ a tape of greater thickness on the inside of the rib where greater strength is required by the shoemaking process.

Stitching the rib to the sole It has been the practice in shoemaking, when sewing ribs are either applied to an insole or formed by channeled lips, to superpose a rectangular piece of gem duck over the whole insole blank, press the gem duck upon the sole in the area lying within the rib, conform the gem duck to the inside of the rib, and then trim off the large excess of gem duck projecting above the top of the rib. The gem duck reinforces the sole and provides a firm anchorage for the seam joining the upper and the sewing rib, since the upturned edge portion of the gem duck forms another ply of such a rib. I have discovered that the application of gem duck in this fashion can be eliminated entirely without impairing the quality of the product. I accomplish this result either in conjunction with the use of the sewing rib heretofore described or in conjunction with an insole in which a sewing rib has been channeled. In the first instance the inside tape i l is made of heavy duck and the sewing rib is applied to an insole as previously discussed. However, in accordance with my invention, the inside tape Iii may be secured to the insole not only by the cohesive cement described above, but by a process of loop stitching carried on progressively and simultaneously with the application of the sewing rib to a flat sole blank, and which will now be described in detail.

An awl is used to make a slanting cut or stab through the tape 14 and into but not through the material of the body of the insole. Subsequently a forked needle inserts and deposits a loop of thread in the hole formed by the awl, and finally pressure is applied from above tending to close or collapse the sides of the hole about the inserted loop of thread. Preferably the thread is impregnated with an adhesive which sets very quickly under the application of pressure and contributes to form a secure anchorage for the stitch. Since the stitche are not carried through the sole, the opposite surface of the sole which is exposed inside the shoe will be smooth and unbroken.

With the preceding explanation in mind, the features of the mechanism comprising the present invention may be appreciated. Although those skilled in the art will readily appreciate that there may be considerable variation in the forms of the elements shown, I prefer to use the mechanism shown in Figs. 5-12. This may include an awl 39 carried at the end of an arm 38 and set at an acute angle with relation to the surface of an insole 32 as it is fed into the machine. At the bottom of the arm 36 is a feed foot as having a horizontal bottom provided with corrugations or teeth. The motion of the awl 30 and the feed foot 34 is indicated by the diagram in Fig. 13 and is obtained by the use of eccentric mechanism of the general type disclosed in my prior Patent No. 1,794,20 i. In the indicated path the distance A-B is the withdrawal stroke. At B the awl meets the surface of the tape on the sole and the inclined and curved path BC represents a period during which the awl 30 is pressed with increasing force downwardly upon the surface of the tape i i, with very little forward movement. The distance C--D represents the movement of the awl through the tape [4 and into the insole 32. Since the point of the awl projects considerably below the corrugated surface of the feed foot 34, the feed foot does not come into contact with the tape [4 until the point D is reached. From D to A the awl and the feed foot which is then in contact with the tape M, are moved to the left. Since the feed foot 34 is in contact with the tape, the awl is not moved with respect to the sole during its travel along the path D A and the result is that the sole 32 is fed to the left. At the point A the withdrawal begins and the cycle is repeated.

Behind the awl 30 is located a curved needle carried in the end of a short arm 38. As clearly shown in Figs. 11 and 12 the front side of the needle is grooved to provide a thread-carrying slot 42, and the point of the needle is recessed or forked as shown at 44. The rear side of the needle has a short groove or slot 46 extending upwardly a short distance from the point. A supply of thread 54 impregnated with a suitable adhesive, cement or hot wax, for example, is placed above the needle 40. Behind the needle is a hammer 48 which bears on the surface of the work to hold it firm while the awl and the needle enter the material. Integral with the hammer 48 is a blade extension 50 which presses the tape l4 tightly down on the surface of the insole at the edge corner formed by the core l and the insole. A presser foot 52 is arranged between the hammer and the needle and is provided with a pointed lower end.

In Fig. 5 the instrumentalities above described are shown in their relative positions after a stitch has been formed and the awl 30 is about to enter the material at an acute angle to form an oblique pocket for the reception of the next stitch. In Fig. 6 the hammer 4B, the needle 4|] and the presser foot 52 are elevated; the awl hasmade its hole and is at the point represented by D in the diagram of Fig. 13. The feed foot 34 is now in contact with the surface of the tape M and the sole is about to be fed to the left.

In Fig. 7 the feed foot 34 is shown as having fed the sole to the left and the hammer has begun to come down again. The awl is now ready to leave the material. Before the awl leaves the material entirely and before the hammer comes in contact with the material, the insole 32 can be swung around the awl, since that is all which then holds the insole. This allows the operator to swing around a sharp bend, as at the toe end of the insole, without moving the hole formed by the awl from its proper position. In Fig. 8

the hammer 48 is shown as having come in contact with the work to hold it firm, the awl is lifted away and the needle carrying the thread 54 is about to enter the hole made by the awl. In Fig. 9 the needle is shown as having reached the bottom of the hole made by the awl and the presser foot '52 has come down to bear upon the surface of the tape and press the upper side wall of the hole against the thread which has then been looped over the point of the needle and into the slot 46. The result is that when the needle is withdrawn, the presser foot will retain the thread in the awl hole, and after the needle has been withdrawn the pressure of the presser foot will set the adhesive carried by the thread and also close the walls of the hole about the deposited loop of thread. The cycle then begins again, and when the hammer 48 returns to the work, it will flatten out the stitch just formed.

When a suitable quick setting adhesive is used on the thread 54 and the presser feet 52 and 48 have done their work, it will be found that the stitches cannot be pulled out. In fact they are so securely held in place that the material of the insole will tear before the stitches will yield.

The mechanism of my invention may also be utilized for operations upon a channeled insole as illustrated in Fig. 14. A leather insole 60 has formed in its lower margin a rib obtained by channeling in from the edge of the sole to raise a lip 62 and channeling from the inside of the sole 6 3 to form a lip 64. The lips 62 and 64 are raised to vertical position and cemented together. When the lips are turned up elongated zones or bands of reduced thickness are left in the body of the insole. A tape 66 is then laid on the sole so that one portion is upright and in contact with the inside surface of the lip 64 and the remainder of the tape 66 extends along the reduced portion of the insole 60 from which the lip 64 was turned up and up along the ad- 6. jacent margin of the unchanneled interior por tion of the sole 60. With the mechanism described above the loop stitching 68 is formed to secure the tape 66 to the insole 60. The stitching 69 is preferably laid through the tape and the unchanneled portion of the insole 60, since the thickness of the insole adjacent the rib may not be great enough to permit stitching of adequate depth.

I have found that by stitching a tape to an insole in the manner above described either in conjunction with a prepared sewing rib or with a channeled rib, the resulting insole is strong enough to withstand all the stresses encoun tered in shoemaking. The tape is so securely held to the insole that a firm. anchorage is formed for the stitches which later unite the sewing rib and the upper. Accordingly, it becomes =unnecessary to use the large blocks or blanks of gem duck heretofore required and it is noteworthy that the amount of gem duck consumed in forming the tape M or 66, as the case may be, is no more than that which ordinarily has been thrown away as waste material after a block or gem duck has been trimmed to fit an insole. This results in lessening the cost of manufacturing shoes without in any way impairing their quality.

Pleating the toe portion of the tape In the past considerable difficulty has been encountered in laying tape or gem duck around the inside of the sewing rib on an insole because the sharp curves at the toe portion are likely to cause ungainly bunching of the tape in that area, as shown in Fig. 4. This has been particularly troublesome when a heavy tape or duck has been used. As the tape is being laid along the relatively straight portions of the sewing rib it is maintained under tension which helps to lay the tape neatly and tightly along the insole. However, when it comes to turning the corner of the toe this tension necessarily lessens and the slack permits the tape to bulge.

I have discovered that when mechanism of the type illustrated in Figs. 5-10 is used, the inside tape about the toe is very neatly pleated in small, tight pleats, or tucks which do not detract from the appearance of the insole and which are small enough and flat enough to present, no obstacle to the curved needle later used to unite the sewing rib and the upper. Referring again to Fig. 13, the awl during its travel along the path B-C has a slight forward movement before the tape is actually penetrated. In the straight portions of the rib, the awl slides slightly over the surface of the tensioned tape I 4, but when a corner is being turned at the toe and the tension on the tape slacks off, the awl does not slide over the tape but carries the tape along the insole for a short distance before penetrating it. I have found that the short, repeated jabs of the awl form the neat. tight pleats described above and that when the presser foot 52 and the hammer come down upon these pleats, they are still further bound down and flattened out. Accordingly, even though it is not found desirable to form loop stitches with the thread 54, the combination of the awl 30 and the hammer '48 may be used by themselves to considerable advantage in order to pleat the tape whenever the tension on it slacks off. The result is shown in Fig. 15 which is a small section taken through the toe of an insole 10 wherein the tape 72 is secured to the insole only by cement, but

where an awl and hammer have been used to form the pleats 14 as above described.

Having thus disclosed my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In a machine for operating on insoles, a feed foot and awl mounted adjacent to each other, means including a movable arm for moving them simultaneously in an advancing path oblique to the surface of an insole to perforate the latter, then in a path parallel thereto to feed the obliquely perforated insole and then in a retracting path to release it, a needle movable obliquely to enter the awl hole to deposit a loop of thread therein at the end of the feeding step, and a presser member movable at right angles to the surface of the insole to collapse the sides of the awl hole beneath it and about the deposited loop of thread.

2. Apparatus for operating on soles, comprising a reciprocable presser foot, a feed foot, an awl mounted for movement with said feed foot along a substantially elliptical path, the awl being set at an acute angle with respect to the bottom of the feed foot to perforate a sole, and a needle substantially aligned with said presser foot and said awl in the direction of feed and movable along a path intersecting the path of the presser foot at an acute angle to enter the owl hole to deposite a loop of thread therein after operation of the feed foot and before operation of the presser foot.

3. Apparatus for operating on soles, which comprises a feed foot and an awl mounted adjacent to each other and movable simultaneously in an advancing path oblique to the surface of a sole for perforating the sole, then in a path parallel thereto to feed the obliquely perforated sole, and then in a retracting path to release it; a needle movable obliquely to enter the awl hole at the end of the feeding step to deposit a loop of thread therein; a presser foot movable at right angles to the surface of the sole to collapse the sides of the awl hole beneath it and about the deposited loop of thread; and a hammer movable toward and away from the surface of the sole to beat upon the sole after it has been fed past the presser foot, said feed foot, awl, needle, presser foot and hammer beig aligned and arranged to act on the sole in the order recited.

4. Apparatus for operating upon soles, comprising an awl; a feed foot mounted for movement with said awl along a substantially elllptieal path including an advancing portion oblique to the surface of a sole for perforating the sole, a portion parallel thereto to feed the obliquely perforated sole, and an upwardly inclined retracting portion to release said sole; a needle movable in a direction parallel to the oblique portion of the path of said awl and feed foot to deposit a loop of thread in the hole made by the awl; and a reciprocable presser foot movable perpendicularly to the surface of the sole to collapse the awl hole about the deposited loop of thread, said awl, feed foot, needle and presser foot being aligned and arranged to act on the sole in the order recited.

5. Apparatus for forming loop stitches in sole leather and the like, comprising an awl, a feed foot mounted for movement with the awl along a substantially elliptical path, the awl being set at an acute angle with respect to the bottom of the feed foot and being movable first to enter the leather and then with the feed foot to advance it in a straight line path, a needle movable in a direction substantially parallel to a portion of the path of said awl for inserting a thread loop in the hole formed by the awl, and a presser foot aligned with said awl and needle in the direction of feed and reciprocable along a fixed path "extending perpendicularly to the surface or the leather, the paths of movement of said presser foot and needle converging in an acute angle, whereby the presser foot is effective to press the leather in an area above the hole formed by the awl and to collapse it upon the inserted thread loop.

ANDREW R. RIDDERSTROM.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 645,424 Mower Mar. 13, 1900 1,368,059 Schick Feb. 8, 1921

Images