US2467389A - Force-lasted shoe and method of making it - Google Patents

Description

April 19, 194 J. s. KAMBORIAN FORCELASTED SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING IT Original Filed Sept. 22, 1943 0,; amo al;

Patented Apr. 19, 1949 FORCE-LASTED SHOE AND METHOD-OF MAKING IT Jacob Simon Kamborian, Wst'N'ewton," Mass! Original application September 22, 1943, Serial No. 503,336." Divided andthisapplicationMa'y 1; 1947, Serial No. 745,285

5 Claims.

Thisinventionrelates to the manufacture offeotwear, the present application being a division of my application ofLetters Patent, Serial No. 563,336; filed September 22, 1943, for Manufacture of' footwear, now Patent No. 2,446,286, ranted August3, 1948. While in certain aspects the invention is'ofbroad'er utility, it is more particularly concerned With the manufacture of the so called slip lasted, California, platform or force-lasted type. In this type of shoe the usual stiff inner sole is omitted and replaced by a thin, soft"and-flexible sole element (commonly termedthe sock-lining in this type of shoe) customarily of textile fabric and which is stitched directly to the upper prior to lasting. A middle or platform sole, usually-comprising a thick, soft and cushion like elements, semi-sole or platform is cemented to the under side of the sock lining, and an outer sole iscemented to the Imdersurface of the middle sole. provided with a skirt portion, extension, platform or wrapper of flexible material which continues downwardly from approximately the" level of thesock lining, and which covers and protectstlie edges of the middle sole, the lower margin of the wrapperbeing interposed between the middle and outer soles.

One object of the invention is to provide a wrapper constitute respectively a lasting a1low-' ance and a-platform cover. A' further object is to provide a method of making force-lasted shoes wherein the upper material, after assembly with the sock lining and wrapper, and after the introdiiiction of-the last, is subjected to lasting stress. These and other objects and advantages of the invention will be pointed out more fully in the following, more detailed description and by referenceto the accompanying drawings wherein Fig. 1 is a perspective View of a shoe upper comprising a wrapper of novel construction and having the sock lining secured to the Wrapper;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary transverse section through the forepart portion of the upper of Fig. 1, showing the arrangement of the sock lining, upper and wrapper during the formation of the uniting seam, a portion of the sock lining being broken away to show the last; and

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary transverse section, to larger scale, through the forepart portion of a The upper is A" furtherobject is to providelasted shoe of the-ki n'd' shown in Fig. 1, themiddl'' and outer soles being'attached.

Referring to the drawingsthe numeral I 1 desig'-- nates the upper o'f'a shoe' which, in" Fig. 2; is shown mounted'upon' a last2. This upper comprises an outer element l which" may be of leather, fabric or the like, and a lining-l The lining l is cutwith blitflittle lasting'allowan'ce and is secured by the stitched inseam B to the 1 margin of a sock lining5- The sock lining may be of any Suitable material but is usually-quite thin; as compared'with the conventional insole? Usu-- ally this sock lining or thin fie xible insoleis'of textile fabric or thelike;

The wrapper strip l may be of any suit'ablei material, for example'likethat of the outerele ment I of the upper, or of'adiiferent'material: For'example if the outer memberl be of'leathei' the wrapper strip 1 maybe of textile fabric or vice versa;

. In uniting the upperwrapper and socklining they are disposed'as'illustrated in Fig. 2' so that the marginal portion of the uppersurface ofthe insole orsock' lining'and'the outer surface ofthe wrapper or platform cover 'Flienext to the inner and outer surfaces respectivelyof the upper com prising the parts P ano! l The inseam stitching 6 may unite the wrapper to the upper but ashere illustrated a separate seam t unites the wrapper to the upper; the row of stitches con stituting the seam 6 extending along the wrapper intermediate and'substantially midway between the opposite edges of the'latter, thereby defining two fiaps 'I and I of substantiallyequal width;- The upper flap l functions like the usual wrapper or: platformcover while the'lower flap 1 extends down below the in'seam fi and constitutes, in effect} an extension ofthe upper, functioning as the cus: tomary lasting allowance provided in' making shoes of conventional type.

After the upper, sock lining, and'wrapp'er have been stitched togeth'erjthe flap I is employed like the lasting allowaii'ce'in" conventional shoes in applying stress to the upper material, this stress being so directed as to tend to draw the seam 6 over the bottom of the last. This flap i or lasting allowance is then secured by adhesive to the under surface of the insole or sock lining 5. The middle or platform sole l l is now put in place and cemented to the bottom of the sock lining and the other flap I of the wrapper is drawn down about the edges of the middle or platform sole and its free margin is secured to the under side of the middle or platform sole, for example by adhesive. The outer soles S is then attached in any desired manner.

While the single inseam 6 may, as suggested, constitute the sole means for uniting the sock lining, upper and wrapper, it is preferred, as above described, to employ a, plurality of seams.

While the term force-lasted" has herein been adopted as an accurate and complete designation, it is to be understood that this term describes any article of footwear of the so-called California, platform, slip-lasted or similar type.

It is to be understood that the invention is not necessarily limited to the precise arrangement or procedure above disclosed but is to be regarded as broadly inclusive of any and all modifications falling within the scope of the appended claims.

I claim:

1. The method of making a shoe which comprises stitching together a sock lining, an upper and a wrapper strip, the stitches which unites the wrapper strip and upper extending lengthwise of the wrapper strip intermediate the edges of the latter, thereby defining a lower Wrapper flap designed to constitute a lasting allowance, and an upper wrapper flap designed to constitute a platform cover, inserting a last into the upper, lasting-in the lower fiap of the wrapper strip over the bottom of the sock lining and adhesively securing it in place, applying a platform sole to the bottom of the sock lining, drawing the cover flap of the wrapper down about the edge of the platform sole, and uniting its margin to the under surface of the platform sole.

2. The method of making a shoe which comprises stitching together a sock lining, an upper and a Wrapper strip by an inseam which extends lengthwise of the wrapper strip intermediate the edges of the latter, thereby defining upper and lower wrapper flaps, inserting a last into the upper, applying stress to the lower wrapper flap such as to draw the inseam inwardly over the bottom of the last, securing said lower flap to the under surface of the sock lining, applying a middle sole to the under surface of the sock lining, drawing the upper flap of the wrapper downwardly about the edge of the middle sole and securing its margin to the under surface of the middle sole, and applying an outer sole.

3. The method of making a shoe which comprises stitching together a sock lining and an upper, securing a wrapper strip to the upper by a row of stitches passing through the upper and wrapper strip, said row of stitches extending longitudinally of the wrapper strip substantially midway between its edges, thereby defining two wrapper flaps, the wrapper strip being so assembled with the upper, prior to uniting them, that the outer surface of the wrapper strip contacts the outer surface of the upper and so that one of the flaps of the wrapper extends downwardly beyond the seam which unites the upper and sock lining, introducing a last into the upper, applying stress to that flap of the wrapper which extends down below the seam uniting the upper 4 and sock lining so as to draw the latter seam inwardly over the bottom of the last, adhesively securing the last-named wrapper flap to the under surface of the sock lining, securing a middle sole to the under surface of the sock lining, drawing the other flap of the wrapper downwardly and about the edge of the middle sole and securing its margin to the under surface of the middle sole, and applying an outer sole.

4. A shoe having an upper and a sock lining, the upper comprising an outer element and a lining, a seam uniting the lining and sock lining, a flexible wrapper strip secured to the upper by fastening elements extending longitudinally of the wrapper strip substantially midway between its edges so as to define marginal flaps extending in opposite directions from said row of fastening elements, the marginal portion of the upper surface of the sock lining and the outer surface of the wrapper being next to the lining and outer element, respectively, of the upper, one of said marginal fiaps of the wrapper underlying and being adhesively secured to the sock lining, a middle sole having its upper surface, intermediate the edges of said latter flap, contacting and adhesively attached to the sock lining, the other flap of the wrapper strip embracing the edge of the middle sole and having its free margin undenying the middle sole, and an outer sole united to the middle sole.

5. A shoe comprising an upper and a sock lining, the margin of the sock lining being folded under to provide two plies, the lower edge portion of the upper underlying and contacting the lower ply .of the margin of the sock lining, a strip of flexible material having its midportion underlying and contacting the under-surface of the edge portion of the upper, a row of fastener elements extending longitudinally of the flexible strip substantially midway between its edges so as to define marginal flaps extending in opposite directions from the row of fastener elements, said fastener elements uniting the strip to the edge portion of the upper, a second row of fastener elements uniting the edge portion of the upper to the lower ply only of the margin of the sock lining, one flap of the strip extending inwardly beyond the edges of the upper and of the lower ply of the margin of the sock lining and being anchored to the upper ply of the sock lining, a sole member underlying said inwardly extending flap, the outer flap embracing the edge of the sole member, and means connecting said latter flap to the sole member.

JACOB SIMON KAMBORIAN.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 739,356 France Oct. 25, 1932

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