US2450666A - Footwear and method of making it - Google Patents

Description

Oct. 5, 1948. J. 5. KAMBORIAN 2,450,665

FOOTWEAR AND METHOD OF MAKING IT Filed March 18, 1944 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 M45 iikmam n19? .Zijyz git C4...

Def. 5, 1948. J. 5. KAMBORIAN 2,450,666

' FOOTWEAR AND METHOD OF MAKING IT File'dMax-ch 18, 1944 I 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 n I 14 @45 imam y 3 @fi w Patented Oct. 5, 1948 ear EN?! ol -Free;

This;inventionv relates to footwear: andymore particularlyrto .a novel shoe of the;we1"t type and toriatmetlrodinf-making-it;v While-ofgeneral util ity the. present invention. is especially-="valuahle when, and is herein specifically illustrated; mere 13*. by way of? example; as: e bodied-in childrensr footwear;- When. made im accordance with-- oils-- tomarw prior procedures; ohildrenis= shoes are of en badlv shaped and have foot-supporting surfaces: which: are: sow rough: and uneven that they would: not be tolerated by: adults; and arethus: rightly blam'ed for many. of the: foot detects Qfraften years; A princlpaliiobjectiof the pre'sent invention is: to; provide a shoe having a level; smcothmnd resilient footssupporting surface endwhich: has a.v properlyshaped lasted upper: and" bottom to; provide a shoe; particularlyax child s; shoe; of. good; appearance and. ofzgood durability; andito provide a novel method" of making welt shoes: whereby shoes having thecharacteristios above. suggested. maybeamad'e cheaply and ex peditiously and by. relatively unskllledlworkers;

Heretoiorei it: has not: been; deemedi practical to make a shoe of the Californiafnwmrce laste'd type having: atoe. on heel stifiener:v A further bject of: the present; invention is to; providea method? whereby a: shoeofizthis general type'may be; provided: with: a .toeiorheel stiffener; or both.

Qtherand; iurthenobiects and: advantages: of theirwention' will ,bexpointed'; out fi1'1:.th.e following-:- more; detailed descripti-onandhy reference to the annexed. drawing: wherein;

Rig; his-a plam view of a: shoe :vamp, especially' thew/amp:oiawohilds shoe;

Fig! zlisxa perspectiveviewofi the vamp of. Rig. 1, preshaned inracoordance witha: preferred: pm;- cedure;

Big. 3 is a fragmentary'transverse-section show theeompletion of; the, step of. assemblingstheupr pen witha sockv liningior insole;-

Fig; 4 1s a-similarview showingaza ,welt strips-ass sembleduwithands united to-the upperxandxsoela; linin -L Fig 5 isa similar:fragmentarytransverse 56.0ftion: showing a last: arrangedwithin, the upper andishowing the welt strinturnedoutwardlyand,- also: showing the cushion-sole inplace;

Fig. 6 is awiew similar: to.Eig ,5 but-: showing": the outer sole assembled with and united-1 to-zther other parts;

Fig 7, isyafragmentaryfront elevation of..thea

vampof Fig, 2 illustrating themode of. crimping;

the .vamp to impart, prelasted shape: thereto;

Fig, 8 is. a side elevation: of; a. completed shoe; made: mlaccordance-with the presentinrocess;

Figs Eris-1a: pl an. view; partly broken away; of; a vamp ifOrfllSe'l'n making ashoezin accordance-with: thepresentzinventions the vampsincluding a; toe stiffener;

51 Fig. 1.0:is-rasviewesimilari'toiFig. 9ibutishowingr' the-vamp inzreadinessifor assembly-with the-sock. linin Fig: 1.1i isa fragmentary 'sectlonz.similar'"t'oiFig? 3 but showing the toe portion of the shoexupperii L0, as comprising-azstifiener elementy Fig-r 12 is. a; fragmentary, diagrammatic VIEW? showing the forepart of:,-a shoe in sectionrandil lustrating: means :useful ainqrsoftening the toe; stif fen'ery showlngra .preferreolz-formv of sock? lining; and? Fig 1.4 isa longitudinaitsection through asshoer upper. assembled with; a sock? lining :show1ng the: upper providedzwithz both .toeand heelt'stiifeners.

20,. Referring to the: drawings the numeral I: indicatesthe vampzof' azshoe, for example aschilds shoe; while thenumeral: 2.5(Fig. v8):- designates the:- rean'portion: of v the-shoe." upper, the: parts: I and 2: being shownvasgunited'xby usual seams-at- 3; .a While:

25 onainrm: of 'upner'is: here illustrated; by waywf; example; it; is: to; he; understood: that the upper: may be;.-ofiany usual ype including: as: fewor: manyrpartscasz' are usual toi-theaparticular type ofi: shoe helngrmadei Inaceordancewith the; present-invention: itzzis: pneierred although not essential, to? impart to.-

contraetion. of1 the edgea-maw be concomitanta to the. formatiom of: stitches; or result from: th&i11-r a troductionz of a gatheringstring or; the like,- a'1- though for simplicityit. is preferred; to produce: this; effect by ai. crimping; operation .in.,which::the material ofthe-upperis indented at .closely spaced: intervals, so as in; effect: to. shorten. the:v edge; or? the upper: andthus cause it; to; take: a concave:

form;

In accordance with-this inventiomthereriszproa vided laminsole 'memberz 6i which-fies preferably by" ver 't-hinmaterial, .for:examp1e:teXtfle ,fahria-and":

as: whichiisirnoraaptly:termed;aa socleliningi since! the ply may be waterproof or moisture impervious. Whether or not the vamp is preshaped as above described, the lower margin of the upper (which may include a lining member l Fig. 3) is permanently united to the margin of the insole or sock lining 6. In thus uniting these parts, the margin 1 of the sock lining is turned downwardly (Fig. 3) and disposed against the inner surface of the lower margin of the upper and then these parts are united by suitable fastening means, for example adhesive, metallic fasteners or preferably by stitches of a seam 9 (Fig. 3). The union of these parts in this manner forms a rib I0 projecting beyond the'plane of the socklining ii and defining a shallow cavity l I, the exposed edges of the united sock lining and upper being directed downwardly in the completed shoe.

While toe oricounter stifieners are not ordinarily used in childrens shoes, they are desirable in many styles of shoe for adult wear. In ac-' cordance with the present invention, it is readily possible to introduce a toe or counter stiifener into awelt shoe of the herein described modified California or force-lasted shoe. Thus, as illustrated in Fig. 9, the vamp is shown as comprising a lining it, an outer member I for example of leather, and a toe stiffener element I of a thermoplastic material and which is interposed between the lining and outer member of the up-- per. 'I'he'margin ofthe stiffener is skived or otherwise reduced to a thin edge, :andthe several plies are adhesively bonded together. The margins of the parts'l and is extend beyond the edge of the stiffener, and the projecting margins are crimped'as shown at 5 (Fig. 10) in the same way as above described with reference tothe vamp shown in Fig. 2. The vamp including the stiffener is now assembled with the sock lining and united thereto as illustrated in Fig. 11. Before lasting, the toe stiffener is softened by the application of steam; As illustrated byway of example in Fig. 12, apparatus suitable for this purpose may include a steam conduit S provided with an upwardly directed hollow perforated post P over which the assembled upper and sock lining are drawn. The steam escaping from the perforations in the post P softens the thermoplastic stiffner element l and while it is still soft the lasting operation is performed.

If the shoe is to have a counter, the counter stifiener 2 (Fig. 14) is introduced between the quarter 2 and the quarter lining-2 before these parts are assembled with the sock lining, and the parts 2, 2 and 2" are then subjected to heat and moulding pressure to impart to the rear of the quarter a prelasted shape. j The moulded quarter is then assembled with the sock lining and with the other parts of the upper before lasting.

The present invention contemplates the provision of a welt strip i2 which may be of any suitable flexible material, for example textile fabric, leather, or one of the synthetic materials which are now commonly used,- for example making the ornamental welt strips used in stitchdown shoes. This welt strip may be of a width generally similar to that of the welt strip used in a Goodyear welt shoe and would usually have one finished surface. In assembling this welt strip with the sock lining and upper, the finished surface of the welt strip is disposed in contact with the outer surface of the upper, with one edge of the welt strip flush with the edge of the rib ill. The welt'strip is then united to the upper material, preferably by fastener elements, for instance metallic fasteners or stitches, as indicated at (4, which pass into and preferably through the entire thickness of the rib material.

The last L is now introduced into the upper. thus distending the upper material and stretching the insole or sock lining 6 tautly in a substantially horizontal plane, as shown in Fig. 5. Either before or after the introduction of the last, the welt strip is turned downwardly and outwardly, as indicated at E5 (Fig. 5). so that the free marginal portion 16 of the welt strip is disposed to lie in the substantially horizontal plane defined by the edge of the rib l0. Within the cavity ii, defined by the sock lining 6 and the marginal rib Thus for example a cushion or middle sole I! may be provided, this cushion or middle sole preferably being of' a soft, resilient material, for example felt, and this cushion sole islciitx to'shap'co.

and is of such thickness os substantially exactly to fill the cavity H, the exposed surface I8 of thecushion sole, when thus thus providing a substantially fiat, level exposed bottom surface. While the cushion sole i! may be cut from sheet material of suitable thickness and to the proper shape to fill the cavity, it is provided and is laid-onto the exposed surface it of the shoe bottom to which it may be united by cement 19* or the like, if desired. This outer sole l9 may, if desired, be provided with a channel 20 to receive sewing stitches 2! by means of which the outer sole is secured to the portion iii of the welt strip. The channel 20 is not necessary, although it may be preferred in making the more finished types of shoe, but if not provided, the stitches 2i willpass through the entire thickness of the outer sole and be exposed at its under surface. If the shoe is to have a heel, a heel wedge 22- may be secured to the rear part of the outer sole 19 after the outer sole has thus been stitched to the Walt, in which event the heel member 22 may be secured to the sole member either by} adhesive or by suitable fasteners, for instance nails or pegs.

member by adhesive, before the sole member is secured to the welt strip, and then the sewing stitches 2| will extend not only through the sole proper but also through the heel wedge 22.

While as above specifically described the invention is of particular utility in making childrens shoes, it is to be understood that it is not limited to shoes of this kind but may be embodied in the manufactureof' shoes of any desired size and of other types, for example slippers.-

IU, suitable filler material is'placedfi disposed in position lying substantially in the same plane as the:un-- der surface of the portion iii of the weltv strip,

If preferred the heel member 22 I may be first attached to' the rear part of the sole It is' further to be understood that while a desirable sequence of steps has been indicated, this sequence may be varied if desired and equivalent steps substituted for those specifically suggested. It is also to be understood that any desired materials may be employed for the shoe; that the lining I sired; and that the welt strip may if desired be suitably shaped or treated before attachment to the shoe upper to facilitate disposal of its outer margin in the plane of the shoe bottom after its attachment to the upper.

I claim:

1. That method of making shoes which comprises as steps providing an upper and a sock lining, turning the margin of the sock lining downwardly and disposing it in contact with the inner surface of the lower margin of the upper, and uniting said margins by stitches to form a rib, providing a welt strip, sewing one margin per, providing a cushion sole of a contour and thickness such as to fill the cavity defined by the sock lining and rib, disposing the cushion sole in said cavity thereby to provide a level bottom surface, turning the welt strip downwardly and then outwardly so that the under surface of its free margin is substantially in the plane of said level bottom surface, providing an outer sole, cementing the outer sole to the cushion sole, and sewing the margin of the outer sole to the welt strip.

3. That method of making shoes which comprises as steps providing an upper, shaping the toe portion of the lower margin of the upper thereby to conform it generally to the shape of the toe portion of the last on which the shoe is to be lasted, providing a sock lining, turning the margin of the sock lining downwardly, and disposing it in contact with the inner surface of the lower margin of the upper, and permantly uniting said margins thereby to form an inseam, providing a welt strip having a finished surface, placing one margin of the finished surface of the welt strip in contact with the outer surface of the lower margin of the upper, and permanently uniting the welt strip to the upper, introducing a last into the upper, turning the welt strip downwardly and outwardly so that its free marginal portion is substantially in the plane of the edge of the inseam, filling the cavity defined by the sock lining and inseam, arranging an outer sole to contact the edge of the inseam, and uniting the margin of the outer sole and Welt strip by permanent fastener elements.

4. That method of making shoes which comprises as steps providing an upper and a sock lining, turning the margin of the sock lining downwardly and disposing it in contact with the inner surface of the lower margin of the upper and uniting said margins by stitches to form a rib, providing a welt strip, sewing one margin of the welt strip against the outer surface of the lower margin of the upper by stitches which pass through the rib, introducing a last into the upper, providing filler material to fill the cavity defined by the sock lining and rib, disposing the filler material in said cavity thereby to provide a level bottom surface, turning the welt strip downwardly and then outwardly so that the under surface of its free margin is substantially in the plane of said level bottom surface, providing an outer sole, cementing the outer sole to the filler material, and sewing the margin of the outer sole to the welt strip.

JACOB S. KAMBORIAN.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS

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