US2327125A - Shoe sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 17, 1943. QUINN 2,3u' 7,l25

172 1 Z y. Z- 30 24 54 Z 20 J 35 0 0 3 F7 9. 3 m n L a 36 Inventor I 30/ VIE/Utes;

184 $641M, v 172/ r Aug. 17, 1943.

Filed March 12, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 196 I I @Ezaa a 180 Fig.5

20 Inventor Aug. 17, 19430 E. QUINN 2,327,

SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed March 12, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Fig 6 114 11,5

Witness fl/m u 7 am Patented Aug. 17, 1943 UNiTED STATES PATENT OFFICE I 7 2,327,125 I V 1 v .SHOE SEWING MACHINE Edward Quinn, Maiden, Massg assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. 3.,

a corporation of New Jersey Application March 12, 1941, Serial No. 382,94?!

1*} Claims.

The present invention relates to shoe sewing machines; and is herein disclosed as embodied in an inseam sewing machine of thegeneral type having a curved hook needle and cooperating instrumentalities for forming a chainstitch, and adapted for sewing together the insole, upper and welt of a welt shoe. The illustrated machine is provided also with means for making a series of slashingcuts passing through the sewing rib comprised between the oppositely disposed stretches of thread forming the stitches of the seam.

It is a principal object of the invention to provide in a machine ofthis general description having a curved hook needle, 'a looper and a thread finger movable to supply slack thread to the needle, 9. novel means for guiding and positioning the thread which will cooperate with the needle, looper and thread finger in such a manner-as will insure'the proper functioning of the stitch forming mechanism during operation upon all classes of work, and will'markedly improve the quality of the stitching produced with respect to uniformity, tightness and proper location along" the margin of the shoe.

It is a further object of the invention to provide an inseam sewing machine of the general type described, and having mechanism for slashing the sewing'rib, of which the stitch forming mechanism is particularly constructed and arranged to support and to control the thread during the forming of successivestitches in such a manner as to preclude any possibility that the thread may become caught inthe slashed portions of the sewing rib.

Gther objects of the invention are to improve the construction and arrangement of certain oper ting instrumentalities of an inseam sewing "tha 'ine of this description, with particular 'reference to improvements in the mechanism for slashing the sewing rib. a

With these 'and other objects in view as'may hereinafter appear, a principal feature of the invention consists in the provision in a machine of the general type described having a'curved hook needle, a looper and a thread finger'nibvable to supply slack thread to the needle; of a stationary thread fingerhavin'g a thread engaging surface extending substantially parallel to the sewing rib and substantially :below'theedge thereof, and crossing the plane of movement of the needle sufficiently above the path taken by the needle to avoid interference of the'parts. Theiseveral features of. the invention consist also in the devices, combinations zand.. -arrange ment of parts hereinafter described and claimed, which together with the advantages to be obtained thereby will be readily understood by one skilled in the art from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. l is a view in right side elevation illustrating .a portion of the sewing head of an inseam shoe sewing machine, only so much of the machine having been disclosed as is; believed necessary to illustrate'the connection of the present invention therewith; Fig. 2 i an enlarged detail View in front elevation illustrating the relative positions of the channel guide,.looper, needle and the movable and stationary thread'fingers at the limit of the loop drawing stroke of the movable thread finger; Fig. '3 is a plan View of the parts shown in Fig. 2; Fig. i is a detail View in right side elevation partly in section, illustrating particularly the construction and arrangement of applicants stationary thread finger; Fig. ,5 is a view in front elevation partly in section-of the parts shown in Fig. 4; Fig. 6 is a View in right side elevation illustrating particularly an improved construction andarrangement of the mechanism for operating the slashing knife and the associated welt supporting member; Fig. 7 is an enlarged detail view of the welt slashing knife and welt supporting element shown in Fig. 6; Fig. 8 is a view in front elevation of the parts shown in Fig. '7; Fig; 9 is a sectional plan view taken on the line 99 of Fig. 7; and Fig. 10 is a sectional plan View taken on the line Iii-l9 of Fig. 7.

. The machine disclosed in the drawings as i1- lustrating in a preferred form the several features of the present invention, comprises a Welt sewing machine for attaching the welt to the insole and associated upper, and is substantially identical in its construction and mode of operation. with themachine disclosed in the patent to Eppler'No. 1,103,560. The shoe operating devices of the machine include a curved hook needle 20, a needle guide 22, a looper 24, a take-up 25, an auxiliary take-up 2'8, and a thread finger 39 movable to supply slack thread to the needle, together with the work supporting-and guiding devices including a backrest 32, a welt'guide 34, and a channel guide 35. The present machine is also provided with a rib slashing knife 38 and an anvil support 43 cooperating therewith adapted for" making" a series of slashing cuts passing through the sewing rib and forming segmental portions thereof which, are held together by the stitches of the seam. The rib slashing mecha- 'nismekcept as herein described is similar tothat illustrated in applicants Patent No. 2,247,691, dated July 1, 1941, for machines for operating upon shoes.

In accordance with the present invention,applicant provides a stationary thread finger 42 which cooperates with the movable thread finger, as hereinafter more fully pointed out, to maintain a more accurate control of the thread during the stitch forming'operation.

In accordance with the usual construction of these machines, the needle 20 is mounted on a needle segment 44 mounted to turn on a stationary bearing and externally supported in a raceway 46 on the machine frame. chine, the awl has been omitted. The channel guide 35 is movable in the line of feed to feed the work, and to this end is mounted on a feed slide generally indicated at 68 which is reciprocated in the line of feed by means of a cam actuated feed lever 5B. The feed lever 59 is supported at its forward end to turn about a fixed pivot' and is connected to 'move' the feed slide through connections including a block "52 adjustably supported in a slotted portion of the lever 56 and arranged to engage in a guideway 54 formed in the bottom side of the feed slide .8. The needle segment 44' is actuatedfrom the reciprocable needle'lever generally indicated at 6!) (Fig. 1) which is connected by means ofa curved link 62 to a pivot pin 64 on the needle segment M. The needle guide 22 is mounted on a pivot pin G5 to turn coaxially with the needle segment 44, and is positively actuated through connections which include a gear segment 56 rigidly secured to the pin 65, and a cam actuated lever 68 supported 1 to turn on a pivot 19, and having formed at its forwardend a' gear segment I2 which meshes with'the segment 66.

to the work, and then forwardly to give up the In the illustrated ma- 7 slack thread thus provided-to the needle during 7 its retracting stroke. The main take-up of the machine'is of usual construction consisting of the take-uplever 25 which is cam actuated and has mounted thereon a thread truck 15. The auxiliary'take-up consists of the. auxiliary take-up lever 28 having'a thread truck 18 mounted there; on. The auxiliary take-up lever 28 is pressed upon by a spring-actuated plunger '80. This plunger is mounted in a vertical guideway in the frame of the machine, and its upper end is acted upon by a coil spring 82 seated in a recess in the machine frame. The auxiliary take-up .is thus spring-pressed, its upward movement being. resisted by thetension of the spring 82. The thread indicated at 34, after passing over the tension wheel at the rear ofthe machine, passes over a guide truck 86, then under the truck I8 of the auxiliary take-up, and then over the truck 16 of the main take-up. The arrangement of these trucks is such that during the rising movement of the main take-up, the auxiliary take-up is moved upward, and during the falling movement of the main take-up, the auxiliary take-up is allowed to fall and maintain'a tension on the thread determined by the stren th of the spring 82 and th'efrelative positions of the three trucks. The main take-up falls during th thread pulling movement to the thread finger, during the looping movements of the looper, and during the retra'cting stroke of the needle. .In accordance with the usual practice to prevent the auxiliary takeup frorn stealing thread 'from the thread finger 38 during its loop delivery or forward stroke, and while the needle is making the first part of its retracting stroke, a stop 88 is provided to limit the forward movement of the auxiliary take-up, which stop is engaged by an adjustable abutment screw 90 mounted in the auxiliary take-up lever 28. The stop 83 and abutment screw 98 are so arranged with relation to the falling. movement of the main take-up and the thread delivering stroke of the thread finger, that the falling movement of the auxiliary take-up must stop before the thread finger 3'3 begins its thread delivering stroke.

Inasmuch as the construction and arrangement of the thread handling instrumentalities thus far described, is substantially that illustrated in the Eppler patent above referred to, no further description or illustration thereof is believed necessary.

The rib slashing mechanism of the illustrated machine is generally similar to that illustrated and described in applicants patent above referred to, comprising the rib slashing knife 38 which is mounted on a knife segment 92 supported to turn on a pivot 96 which is formed integrally with the needle guide 22 and is. eccentric with relation to the needle guide pivot pin 65, and a cooperating anvil support 49 which is arranged to engage withand force the sewing rib outwardly against the thrust of the knife 38 which enters from thechannel side of the work. The knife is fixed in the line of feed, and is spaced a predetermined distance from that side of the needle remote from the completed stitches of the seam, so that the slashing cut will always be spaced a'predetermined distanc from the point of operation upon the shoe at which the needle is operated to engage with and draw a newloop of thread through the work; The knife is located to form its slashing cut close to the point at which the needle is operating through the work, so that when the work is fed, the out will be transferred to'the other side of the needle a maximum pos sible distance for any given stitch length adjustment of the feed mechanism. The operation of the knife 38 is timed with relation to the operationof the needle 29 and needle guide 22, so that the downward movement of the knife takes place during the retracting movement of the needle guide 22 and while the eccentric pivot is moving rearwardly about the axis of rotation of the needle guide on the pivot pin 65.

In-the illustrated construction, the knife 38 is mounted on the knife segment 92 in such a manner as to permit of adjustment which will compensate for wear and successive sharpenings of both the outer and anvil engaging knife edges. To this end the knife is slidably supported-in a guideway 91 which is disposed at such an angle with respect to the pivot 65 that adjustment of the knife outwardly in the guideway will serve to locate both knife edges simultaneously in their proper operating positions. A clamping screw 98 threaded to the knife member 38 and arranged to extend through a slot 99 in the knife segment 92 serves to hold the knife 33 rigidly in adjusted position. I r

The anvil support 4!] is constructed and arranged to move in timed relation to the knife, acting as the knife moves downwardly, first to move downwardly and rearwardly, and then forwardly, forcing the sewing rib outwardly against the thrust of the knife. During retracting movement of, the knife, the anvil support-40 is again moved rearwardly and up tolits raised inoperative position as shown, for example, in Fig. 1

port for the sewing rib atboth 'sides'ot the'knife 38, being formed for this purpose with a rela- "tively long supporting surface. extending lengthwise of the sewing'ribat each side of the point of application of the "knife. 'Asfcle'arly shown, for example, in Fig. 6of 'the'drawings, theanvil support'w moves downwardly betweenthe work and the welt guide and engages the sewing 'rib above the welt-guide 34, 'andalso above the welt. A slot I00 is formed in thefaceof theianvil '49 to receivc'the knife38 to insure the proper operation of the knife to cut completelythrough the sewing rib.

As in applicants patentabove referred to, 'the rib slashing knife 38 and anvil support 40 are positively driven from the main camshaft of the machine by means of a cam lever l'ozsupported to turn on a pivot pin I94 and arranged for imparting an oscillatory driving movement to a knife actuating lever I56 supported on the shaft I 04. The lever I 06 is urged in a clockwise direction by means of a tension spring I08toward a limiting position with respect to the cam lever "I02 in which 2. lug Moon the lever I05 is engaged against a lug II2 on the cam lever I02. During operation of the slashing knife, the actuating lever I05 is positively connected to move with the lever I02 by means of a latch connection comprising a latch I'I'4 carried on a pivot pin I I5 on the lever I96 for engagement with a pin IIS on the forward end'of the cam lever I 62. A

small torsion spring II 8 coiled about the pivot pin I I5 for the latch I I4 tends normally to main- 'tain'the latch in looking position.

In order to disconnect the knife actuating lever I66 from active operation, mechanism is provided which comprises a control lever I29 supported to 7 turn on a stationary pivot I22, and provided at its upper endwith'a'right angle slot I 24 to receive a cam roller I26 mountedon one end of the pivot pin for the latch I I4. For the rearward operative position'of the control lever I28, the cam roll I-26will ride in the vertical portion of the slot I24,

so that the knife actuating lever I95 is free to reciprocate with the cam lever I02 as shown, for example, in Fig. 6 of the drawings. Forward movement of the control lever "I22 as the cam lever I02 and knife actuating ,Ie'ver I05 reach their limiting down position, will cause the cam "r011 I26 to ride rearwardl'y in the horizontal portion of the slot I24 to lock the knife actuating lever I65 in a locked inoperative position. The forward movement of the control lever I20 is arranged also to disconnect the latch H4 from the latch pin H6. The disengagement of th latch H4 is effected by the engagement o f'a pin I28 on the control lever 29 with the downwardly extendin arm of the latch lever H4 which acts to swing the latch lever rearwardly to the discon- In'e'cted position shown in Fig. 1, against the pressure of its spring I13; The operation of the control lever I20 is controlled through connections whiehmay be assumedto include a knee lever (not shown), and a vertical link I35 which is connected at its upper end to a rearwardly extendarm I32 of the control lever I20. h

The actuating lever IE5 is connected to impart oscillatory movements to the knifeiSS through a link :34 connected at its lower'end'by means of a pivot pin I35 to the knife segment, and at its upper end by Iheansof a pin I38 to the actuating lever 166-. In order'to provide a convenient aderal support for the rod I42. The rod I42 is pivotallygonnected at its upper end to one end of a lever I 48 SuppbrLtedjto turn on'a'iixed pivot I55. lhe 'lever'arin I48 isfconnected by means of a link I52 to the adjustable pivot pin I 38 on the kn fe actuating lever I06. An extensiblecoupling I54 in the link I52 provides means of adjustmer t/of the limiting down position taken by the anvil s'uthtrtae. 7 h

Int-he i'r'nprovedforin of the rib slashing mechin here n illustrated, V applicant provides for "effecting an additional adjustment of vie limiting down position taken by the anvil agains the sewing rib to adapt the mechaham for operation upon extreme types of work in which'heavy s'tock is'ernployed, which necessiates a considerably higher location of the anvil support 4Q against the upper portionof the sewing rib. To this end the lever I43 is provided with two slot I56 and 'lfidwhich are adapted alternatively to receive ajpivot pin rec mounted on the lower end of the link I52. From an irfspe'ct'ionof Fig. 1, it will readily be seen that the location or the pivot pin for the 11111; I552 in'the slot I58 will cause the anvil ldtorbe located in a relatively higher pos'ition with relation to the sewing rib at the limit of it down movement. The contour of the cam surface I 52 engaging the knuckle I44 "is such as to provide a orrespohdmg compensation or" the forward and back position of the anvil support at the limit of its down stroke for, each position of adjustment; I

In the operation oi 1th inseam sewing machine of the geheiartype. described, provided with ng rib; difiiculty has e n eheohhteree with the operation of the stitch formir'ig rnecha'ni sm to produce the uniform tight hht1aecurate1y 1ac1 stitch required for inseam sewing. 'This ulty is believed to be duein large part to the'novel conditions encountered,

in whicli thje sewing rib is weakened bythe slashing operation, and therefore doe not provide the customary support tor the thread during the operation of the movable thread finger to supply slack thread to, the needle. It has been found also that there'is some tendency for the thread when bent rearwardly across the sewing rib by the movement of the thread finger, to

caught in th slashed portion of ,the rib, with resulting injury to the work. In accordance with a fea'ture oi the present invention, a p-li'cant provides stationary thread finger which-is located the stitch receiving channel formed betweenthe sewing rib and the solaand cooperates with the several stitch forming 'ihstrume'ntaliti'e including the curvedthook needle, themovable thread finger and the looper to guide the thread clear of the work, to accurately measure the amount of thread taken-and subsequently given up by the movable thread aware that secondary thread fingers have previously been employed whichcooperate Withthe usual thread finger to more accurately measure. the amount of slack thread supplied to the neerile, applicant in the present instance provides a new and more efdcient cooperation of the stitch forming instrumentalities by virtue of the usev of a stationary thread finger which is rigidly and permanently positioned within the stitch receiving channel.

The stationary thread finger 42 provided in accordance with the present invention, comprises a curved element which projects into the stitch receiving channel, and has the shank portion thereof located at'that side of the sewing point toward the completed stitches of the seam. The finger 42 is provided with a thread engaging surface I79 which extends lengthwise of the channel and across the plane of movement of the curved hook needle 20, and sufficiently above the same to avoid, interference with the needle.

In order that the thread finger 42 may be properly located for operation of the machine upon all classes of work which may be presented thereto, provision is made for adjustment of the thread finger 42 transversely, vertically and longitudinally with respect to the stitch receiving channel at the sewing point. The thread engaging surface HI) take the form of a curve so shaped as to engage at its lowest point with the thread portion extending from the work and to support the thread in a continued substantially straight line as it is drawn from the stitch receiving perforation through the work by the thread drawing movement of the thread finger 30.

As best shown in Figs. and 5 of the drawings, the stationary thread finger 42 is secured by means of screws I12 to a support I'I i which is mounted. for forward and back adjustment upon a slideway I16 formed inthe under side of a U-shaped bracket I18. A clamping screw I80 which extends through a slot I82 in the support I I4, and is screw-threaded into the bracket I18, serves to secure the support I'M to the bracket H8 in the desired position of adjustment. The U-shaped bracket I18 is pivotally mounted on a bushing I84, and is rigidly clamped in the desired position of angular adjustment with relation thereto, by means of a clamping screw I86 which passes through the two arms of the U-shaped bracket and through an axial bore in the bushing I84. The bushing I84 is carried in a bearing formed in a bracket I88 which is secured by means of screws 90 to the front side of the sewing head I92. In order to provide an additional adjustment of the stationary thread finger 42 lengthwise of the stitch receiving channel, the bushing I84 is arranged for axial adjustment in its bearing, and is clamped rigidly in position by means of a clamping pin I94 having one side thereof flattened at I96 for engagement with a corresponding fiat I88 in the bushing I534. The engaging flattened portions I95, I98 serve to key the bushing I84 against rotational movement in its bearing while permitting axial adjustment thereof. A nut 28%] screw-threaded to the clamping pin I84 serves to clamp the bushing I84 rigidly in adjusted position.

The operation of nism including specifically applicants stationary thread finger 42 will be described as follows: After the needle has reached the limit of its loop drawing stroke, and again starts downwardly through the Work, the take-up 28' moves upthe stitch forming mechawardly to its limiting raised position to pull in the previously formed loop against the shank of the needle and to draw off additional'thread from the supply. The auxiliary take-up 28 is simultaneously moved upwardly by the tension on the thread against the pressure of its spring. As the take-up starts its downward movement, the movable thread finger 30 starts to move rearwardly from the dot-and-dash position shown in 3, to draw in a bight of slack thread, both legs thereof being bent over the thread engaging surface I '56 of the stationary thread finger 42. The take-up continues to fall as the thread finger pulls in its bight of. thread, and continues this movement during the operation of the looper 24 to thread the needle, and during the subsequent [retracting or loop drawing movement of the needle through the work. The thread finger 30 retains control of its bightof thread during the operation of the looper 26, and thereafter up thread to the needle during its retracting movement. It will be noted :that both legs of the bight of thread held by the thread finger 30, are at all times engaged against and controlled Toy the thread engaging surface I'EO of the stationary thread finger 2, insuring an extremely accurate control of the thread during his portion of the stitch forming operation. As the needle approaches the limit of its loop drawing stroke, the thread finger 38 will have been returned to the dot-and-dash position of 3, so that the thread is released therefrom, and while still guided by the thread engaging surface iii) of the stationary thread finger =32, is drawn down tightly into the base ofthc stitch receiving channel.

From the foregoing description, it will readily be seen thatv the thread engaging surface I'lil of applicants stationary thread finger 42 operates at all times as aguide support for the thread extending from. the work during the operation of the movable thread finger 3i) and looper 24, and also during the retracting stroke of the needle 29 to cause the thread while manipulated by these instrumentalities to be positively supported away fromthe work, and finally, to be positioned accurately in the base of the stitch receiving channel. In this manner, an extremely accurate handling of the thread by the stit a forming mechanism is insured which is entirely unaffected by such variables as thickness or strength of the work portions to be held together by the stitching. Any tendency of the thread to become caught in the slashing cuts formed in the sewing rib which might otherwise result from the bending of the thread over the sewing rib by the operation of the thread finger 39 is entirely eliminated. It will be noted that the thread engaging surface i'iG of the stationary thread finger 42 supports the thread while being acted upon by the movable thread finger 36 and looper 24 substantially in line with the needle perforations through which the thread is drawn, so that no lateral strains'may be exerted by these elements upon the work. This feature is of advantage in that it permits of the formation of tight stitching in work composed of weak or inferior materialswithout danger of tearing or otherwise injuring the same. The operation of the stitch forming mechanism is improved also in other respects, in that the support for the thread provided by the thread en,-

gaging surface Ill), permits the thread portion thethread finger 30 during its rearwardistrokev needle and above the path taken by the needle, tosupply slackthread for the needle. The more i and means for supporting 'the'stationary'thread accurate control of thearnount'of threadj'tak'en finger rigidly'in position.

and subsequently given up by the movablej'thread 4. In an inseam chainstitch shoe sewingma finger 30 acting in cooperation-With the"sta 5 chine, the "combination of a curved hookn'eedle, tionary thread'finger. 42, has; been found'al'soto" a looper, a thread finger movable to supply" slack result in an improvement inthe operation'of the thread to the needle,a stationary thread finger auxiliary take-up cooperating "with the thread for guiding the" thread portions extending from finger 30; and looper 24, ll'l, that"the auxiliary the work to the looper and needlewh'ile engaged take up does not seatagainstits stopyxbutwpe' 10,,by ,the'inovablethreadfinger, andhavingthe erates at 'all times against its'springten'sion; thread engaging surface thereo'f'located substan thus providing amore "uniform oontrol of the tiallv:irr'lirjie"withthe stitchreceiVingperfora tensioning, strains exerted upon the thread by tions through the work, means for'supporting'the the stitch formingimechanism; and-also making"; stationary threadfingerrigidly in po'sition,"in'-' for a muoh more q t Ope at of the 1 80 1 6 1 "15 oludirig'adjusting'means arranged to permitad While applicants improved"construction a m tjustme'nt" ofsaid "position" of the 'threadffinger" arrangement of the stitch fojrming mech'anisnr" freelyin" a' plane parallel to the planeof needle" including, particularly the: stationary thread) movement? fingern has beenfound"of-particularadvantage-- 5; In-anin'se'am' chainstitch 'sh'oesewing maiin nconnection 'with an insteam sewing-machine 20 chine, "the combinatiorr'of a "curved hook needle having rnechanisrn for slashing the sewing-rib? arrange'd to enter the Workfrom theoutsideand it will he understood that' the-invention-is;not t emerge ithin af titch receiving h nnel-f ed to a machine hav a rib-slas ing e h channel guidefa'looper, athread' finger movable i but s proved 'itself tobe equ y d to "supplyslaolr'thread to the needle, a stationary v se as ppl ed't i am w srthread 'fingerffor guidrng the threadportions" nes o q pped? tis also-to "beund engagedhy'the movable thread'finger"and ha' stood that the invention isnot limited" to" the ing thethieadengagingsurface thereof located spe fic uct onand arr :Ofiparts Within the'stitch receiving channel substantially pted f r sewing so-calledoutside'flhain, below the edg'eof' the sewingjrib'; and imeans for in Whi'ch't e needle enters w om=- supporting the stationary thread'finger Irigidlyf outside, but; may also :bewith advantageap- :f pes'itionr H plied to a machin adapt d f r s w sa o- 611 an inseam" chainstitch shoe sewing reverse chain, in which 1:he-need1e'-entersthe chinefthe cornbinatiomofa curved hook'needl'e work -fromthe inside, and emergesu arranged toenterthe work from the outside and pperq r' S p e W 1 to emerge within a stitch receiving channel, a The'invention having be desclibedrwhatiw channel-guideya loope'r, a thread'fingerrnovabie' claimed is: r f a to supply slack'thr'e'ad'to the needle, a stationary 1.-In an inseam chainstitch'shoesewing ma-- thread. finger f "guiding t gr a ons fi, Combination a cuwfidhookfineedler" engaged bytheknovable thread firig'er'and having a 1001 6 a thread finger movabletosupp1y-s1aok-40 the thread "engaging surfaoe"'the"reof located thread t a i nary-threadfinger"" withirrthestitch'rec'eiving'channelsubstantially for u d th thread p d g-f o belowth'e'edge of the'sewing'ribfand'means for the W Q 9 d needle while engageid supportingahe" stationarythread finger rigidly by the. mova l t a fi and having in positionnricluding"adjusting means arranged threadengaging surface thereof located'substane to permitadju'stment ofthestatidnary thread tiallyin line with; the stitch receivi "p t fingerlongitudinallyofand in a plane tiansverse tions through the work; and -means* forsup to the stitch-receiving;channel at the sewing portingihe. stationary'thread finger "rigidly in point.- pgsifi'gn 7. In' an"inseamwhainstitoh shoe sewing 2. ;'In,an insearn"chainstitch 'shoesewing'-mae chine;-thecornbination of a curved hook'needu chine, the combination otacurved hook'needle; arranged to enter the work fromthe outside and a looper,, a thread-finger movable'to' supply slack to emerge-within a stitch"receivingchannel; a thread tojthe needle, a stationary-thread finger" channelguide, a looper, a thread finger'movahie' for guiding thethreadpportions extending from" to supply slack 'thr'eadt'o'the needle, a stationary the work to the looper and needle while eng ged"'f55 thread finger for guiding the 0 thread por'ti'onsf by the; movable; thread finger, of which "the"" engaged by the movable thread finger andhav-" thread engagingsurface is located substantially ing'the'threa-d engaging surfacethereof located in line with. the stitch receiving..perforationsfl Within the stitch receiving channel substanti 11y throu h the W011; and extendsin a directiongenbelow the edge of the sewing rib, and means for erally parallel to'the searn at the' point of operasupporting the stationary thread finger rigidly tioniand across the plane of'movementof'the". in position comprisingta stationary support, a needle, and meansforlsupportin'g thestationar'y "j bracket'niounted thereon for adjustment a thread finge; rigidly i p0 siti0n, 1 planesubstantiaily parallel to the planefof needle" 3. :In an inseam .chainstitch shoe sewingmav movement, and' 'athread finger supporting mern chine, thepcombination of a curved hook needle, per vmountedon the bra'eketfor adjustment; in a loope athread fingermovable .to supply slack; relation'to' the 'bracket'insaid' plane; I thread toxtheneedleja' stationary thread fingerj" S. Inan-inseam'chainstitch shoe ma for guiding the'thread portionsextending from chine, the combinationofa curvedhookheedIe" the work to the looper and needlelwhile engaged arranged to enterfthe'workfronithe outside-and oy the movablei'thread finger, otyvlfighfthef-e to emerge within a stitcnreceivin'g"channel; a thread engagingsurfacezis located substantiallyj'f chann'erguide; a looper,'a threadfirgigirjm gm in line with the stitch receiving perforations to supply slack'thre ad' to'the'n'eedle', a statiohary l throughthe work,,. and, extends in a direction threadfinger' forjguitlingfithe thread'isortionygenerally parallel'to the seam at the point of engagedbythe movable'.thread'fingerand'hav operation across the plane of movement of the ing the thread engaging surface thereof located within the stitch receiving channel substantially below the-edge of the sewing rib, and means for supporting the stationary'thread finger rigidgr in position including a bracket pivoted for swinging adjustment in a plane substantially parallel to the plane of movement/of the needle, and a thread finger supporting arm adjustably supported on the bracket.

9. In an inseam chainstitch shoe sewing machine, the combination of a curved hook needle arranged'to enter the work fromthe' outside'and to emerge within a stitch receiving channel, a channel'guide, a looper, a thread finger movable to supply slack thread to the needle, a stationary thread finger for guiding the thread portions engaged by the movable thread finger and having the thread engaging surface thereof located with in the stitch receiving channel substantially below the edge of the sewing rib, and mean for supporting the stationary thread finger rigidly in position including a bracket pivoted for swinging adjustment in a plane substantially parallel to the plane of movement of the needle, an axially adjustable pivotal support for said bracket, and a thread finger supporting arm slidably mounted on the bracket for further adjustment of the stationary thread finger in said plane.

10. Ina chainstitch shoe sewing machine, the

thread finger movable to supply slack thread to the needle, and a stationary thread finger located within the stitch receiving channel for guiding the thread acted upon by the movable'thread finger clear of the slashed sewing rib.

14. In an inseam shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices and slashing mean acting in timed relation thereto for forming slashing combination of a curved hook needle arranged to:

enter the Work from the outside and to emerge within a stitch receiving channel, a looper, a thread finger-movable to supply slack thread to the needle, and a stationary thread finger for guiding the thread portions engaged by the movable thread finger, having the thread engaging surface thereof located within the stitch receiving channel substantially below the edge of the sewi-ng' rib, and above the path taken by the needle, and crossing the planeof movement of the needle.

11. In an inseam chainstitch 'shoe sewing machine, the combination of a curved hook needle arranged to enter the work from the outside and to emerge within a stitch receiving channel, a channel guide arranged on that side of the needle remote from the completed stitches of the seam,

a looper, a thread finger movable to supply slack thread to the needle, and a stationary thread finger cooperating therewith including a support ing shank located at that side of the needle opposite the channel guide, and having the thread engaging surface thereof located within the stitch receiving channel substantially below the edge of the sewing rib and above the path taken by the needle, and crossing the plane of movement of the needle.

12. In an inseam chainstitch shoe sewing machine, the combination .of a curved hook needle arranged to enter the work from the outside and to emerge within a stitch receiving channeLa channel guide, a slashing knife arranged for making transverse cuts through the sewin rib, a looper, a thread finger movable to supply slack t read to theneedle', and a stationary thread.

finger having the thread engaging surface thereof located within the stitch receiving channel substantially below the edge of the sewing rib.

13. In an inseam shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices and slashing means acting in timed relation thereto for forming slashing cuts extending through the sewing rib, thecombination of a curved hook needle arranged to enter the work from'the outside and toemerge Within a stitch receiving channel, a looper, a

cuts through the sewing rib, the combination of' a curved hook needle arranged to enter the work: from the outside and to emerge within a stitch. receiving channel, a knife arranged to operate at. that side of theneedle remote from the completed stitches of the seam for forming slashing; cuts inthe sewing rib, a looper, a thread, finger movable to upply slack thread to the needle, andi a stationary thread finger located within the: stitch receiving channel substantially at that side: of the needle opposite from th knife for guiding. the thread acted upon by the movable thread; finger clear of the slashed sewing rib.

15. In an inseam shoe sewing machine, the; combination of a curved hook needl arranged to. enter the work from the outside and to emerge:

within a stitch receiving channel, a channel guide,

a looper, a thread finger movable to supply slack thread to the needle, a slashing. knife arranged for making transverse cuts through the sewing rib, an anvil support having a knife receiving notch and substantial supporting surfaces at each side thereof to support portions of the sewing rib at both sides of the path of movement of the, knife against the cutting stroke, actuating means.

for positioning the anvil support against the sewplane of the needle.

16. In an inseam sewing machine having stitcha forming and work feeding-devices, the combina-- tion of a slashing knife arranged for making:

transverse cuts through the sewing rib, and an; anvil support having a knife receiving notch and: substantial supporting surfaces at each side thereof for engagement with the sewing rib substantially above the path followed by the needle in its work piercing stroke for supporting the sewing rib against the cutting stroke of the knife.

17. In an inseam sewing machine having stitch forming and work feeding devices, the combination of a slashing knife arranged for making transverse cuts through the sewing rib, an anvil support having a knife receiving notch and substantial supporting surfaces at each side thereof for engagement with the sewin rib substantially abovethe path followed by the needle in its work piercing stroke for supporting the sewing ribv 7 EDWARD QUINN.

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