US2366703A - Method of and machine for assembling and sewing moccasin type shoes - Google Patents

Description

Jan. 9, 1945. F, ASHWORTH METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR ASSEMBLING AND SEWING MOCCASIN TYPE SHOES Filed March 12, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet l FL .4 4548 44 D94 g 0 4 Inventor A/ Mr 81 Witness 50 35-"56 36 ELK/M 32 @W%' Jan.9,1945. F ASHWORTH 2,366,703

METHOD'OF AND MACHINE FOR ASSEMBLING AND SEWING MOCCASIN TYPE SHOES Filed March 12, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 FZ'yjZ inventor WtRess- I 6 jo' fla w 80 Patented Jan. 9, 1945 UNITED/STATES I memos PATENT OFFICE i METHOD or MACHINE roa ns sam- BLING AND; I SEWING :MDGCASIN 'rr'ra (SHO S y Fred Ashworth; Wenham, :-Mass., assig nor to i United Shoe Machinery Gorporation; lFlemingtpn Ni J a corporation of New Jersey i i Application a 12, 1942; sci-m1 No. 434,365

claims. (01. 112*601 The present invention relates to improvements in methods and lmachines for sewing moccasin Q seams andis herein disclosedlas einbodied in a Present day'commercial practice in moccasin type shoe making includes thesteps of cuttin out suitably shaped pieces of upper stock'and preparing thepieces bybeveling the edges soth at they are assembled with thefaces of the bevelsjin register. The pieces are secured together bycement and then sewed with the stitches passing through the bevel faces at the shoulders formed by-jthe intersection of the .bevel faces with the inner surfaces of jthemoccas'in pieces. To enable the sewing operation: to be performed on a commercial type shoesewingmachine and ito prevent distorting the edges of the pi eces operated upon when the stitches are tightened, the edges of the pieces are beveled at an angle which causes the "outer surfaces of the pieceswhen assembled 'toform an acute angle; However, due to the shape in which the pieces are cut. the s urfaces of the pieces remote'from the sewed edges extend at a comparatively greater or obtuse angle withrelation to each other, oftentimes approach ing a relationship of approximately 180fal-ong some portions of the completed upper. {Thus while securing the pieces bycement, it is 1 necessary to flex the pieces operated uponfroni the greater angular relationship remote from the meeting edges inte'the "smaller angular relationship along the edges, the tenacity of the cement employed acting to retain the faces on the beyels in registeragainst the forces resisting ilexure in the pieces while sewing. To reduce these forces, the top piece frequentlyi's pre-formed fby a separate edge bending operation; The as nt: bling and cementing operations are also surroundformed at thefmeeting edges, as above pointed" during sewing, in spite qementinaop i ,Due, to) the fact that Y thej bevel edged pieces of, a moccasin type shoe, when assembled with the pbevel facesfin contactQdiverge along some portions of the completed upper at a greater anglewithrelation to each other than the angle outy and also vdue to the fact that the extreme outer edges of-the pieces along the bevel faces areextremely thin, it has heretoforebeen necessary to assemble the pieces and secure them temporarily with cement before they are pre:

sentedto a -sh'oezsewing machine of thetype dis closed in the patent above referred to. Machines l of the'type disclosed in the patent are provided with an external work support havi ng work engaging surfaces angularly disposed with relation ed by other practical"difficultieswhich require careful workmanship, particularly when the moccasin pieces are not cutgaccurately tothe, correct shape. Also, due to irregular qualities of coinpressibility and flexibility in the materials em ployed for moccasins or moccasin type shoes the registering faces "on the bevels frequently are pulled apart or displaeed'from proper register to each'other and extending in the line of feed and with a cooperating internalpr'esser having corresponding work engaging-surfaces. When the bevel edged top and v mp pie of a? moo? casin type shoe are presented to such an external work support and internal presserwithout being previously assembled and cemented, it has been found to be impossible'tobring the edges of the pieces-at the "outer edges of the bevel faces into register and maintain them in registerwhile the seam is being inserted displacement ofone piece with relation to the otherbeing occasioned by the stresses produced in the pieces resulting fromflexure necessary to bring the bevel surfaces into contact,-the resistance offered by thethin edges of the pieces as these edges are forced within the apex of the external work support being insuilicient to bringthe edges into register or maintain them in this position; As a result of thestresses in the pieces and the failure of the work support to properlyiguide the thin edges, one piece 'isdisplaced'withrelation to the other sufliciently to cause the seam to present an ir regular appearance and often at some point along y the seamto "run entirely ofi-ofyeither the top piece ;.or the vamp. i s y The objects of the present invention are to obviate the diificulties referred to and to provide a sewingi-ma'chine'in which the pieces of a moccasin or moccasin type shoeupper may be unitedprogres; sively in a reliable and uniform manner without the necessity of'performing separate assembling and cementing operations. A furtherobject is to improvether methods of sewing moccasin seams so as to enable an operator to unite permanently the top and vamp pieces of a moccasin} without the neeessity of exercising as much care and ati of careful assembling and tention in guiding the pieces as have heretofore been required.

- With the above and other objects in View, a feature of the present invention contemplates progressively assembling the bevel edged toe piece and vamp of a moccasin type shoe by guiding the bevel face of one piece independently of the bevel face of the other piece to bring the edges of the pieces into register progressively alongsaid edges and progressively securing the assembled pieces while thus in register. By utilizing the bevel faces of the pieces, the positions to which the pieces are moved during the assembling operation are determined independently of the outer edges of the bevel faces and thus accurate register of the edges can be secured re gardless of the thinness of the outer edges produced in bevelin The present invention also contemplates the provision in a sewing machine operating progressively to unite the'edges of the top and vamp pieces for a moccasin shoe upper in which there are provided an external work support and an internal presser. having work engaging surfaces properly disposedv to cause the moccasin pieces along the edges to be broughttogether, of a.

centering gage for preventing one moccasin piece from displacing the edge of'the other moccasin piece. in advance ofthe sewing point. As hereinafter illustrated, the centering gage consists of a fin extending between the edges on the inoccasin pieces in advance of or opposite to-the point of operation of the sewing instrumentsand' preferably the gage ismouritedwithin. the apex-oi angularly disposed work engaging surfaces on the work support. 1 The .pe'vel faces of the pieces are engaged by the centering-fin and the fin, in addition to preventingdisplacement of one piece bythe other, acts as a guide to determine the posiprovided with a divided tip, the parts of which are movable with relation to each other and which act on the pieces separately. According to this feature, thetip is actuated to urge one of the pieces towards the apexof the work support before the other piece of themoccasin is clamped.v The side piece or vamp of the moccasin, due to its shape, is the most difficult to locate with its edges in accurate registration with those of the top piece and in the embodiment of this feature,

that portion of the presser tip which engages the. side piece or vamp of the moccasin is constructed" to yield after engaging the work. Also to'assist further in urging both moccasin pieces into' the apex of the work support, the tip of the'presser is roughened with projections extending parallel to the line of feed so as not to exert resistance during work feed. 7

The tongue or top piece of a moccasin is more nearly fiat than the side piece or vamp and therefore, is more easily manipulated during assem-- bllng and sewing operations. As a means forin suring that the top piece shall be held substantially fiat so that it may be assembledwiththe. vamp of a moccasin merely by moving the top piece in its own plane as the operation progresses about the curved end of the top piece, a fiat guiding plate is provided, according to a further feature of the invention, for supporting the top piece in a flattened condition throughout a substantial proportion of its area to cause all ofthe fiexure required in bending both moccasin pieces from an acute angle along their edges towards an obtuse angle remote from their edges to be taken up by the vamp during sewing. To facilitate turning the top piece while sewing around the v curved end, in the present form of this feature, the tip of the presser in advance only of the point of operation of the sewing instruments engages the top piece so that the oncoming portion of the edge on the top piece will be crowded into the apex of the work support more firmly than the outgoing sewed portion of the edge. Thus, as the curved toe end of the top piece is reached,

- the action of the presser tends to cause the top piece to turn more or less by itself. By so doing, the operator of the machine is able better to give his full attention to proper manipulation of the vamp and'to lead the bevel face on the vamp more accurately into register with the bevel face on the top piece. I'he vamp of the moccasin is out along its beveled'edge with a concave contour. Accordingly, uniform engagement of the presser tip with the vamp along the seam line at both sides the point of operation of the sewing instrument is best suited to urge the vamp into the apex of the work support without crowding out a the top piece..

1 Another feature of the invention relating to the methodof uniting the pieces of a moccasin upper contemplates a mode of operation consisting in flexing the moccasin vamp while holding the toppiece in flattened condition. This feature. is of special advantage when sewing the pieces together and also in certain aspects is useful where other forms of fastenings are'employed, whether the pieces are united progressivel or in a single operation.

With the parts constructed and operated .in the manner briefly described, not only is it possible to assemble and unite progressively in the same operation the vamp and top pieceof a moccasin or moccasin type shoe upper, but certain features of. the invention such as those relating tothe divided tip on the presser are advantageous inuse when sewin'gpreviously assembled and cemented moccasins according to present commercial practice. When sewing moccasin uppers not previously assembled or those not complete- 1y cemented, the edge guide fin ensures an .ac-.

curate and uniform register ofthe bevel faces on the work pieces operated upon. present machine, a satisfactory seam may thus be sewed with the assurance that the moccasin pieces will be united uniformly in a preferred relationship. I V

, These and other features. of the invention cons'ist in certain devices, combinations and arrangemerits of parts hereinafter described. and claimed, the advantages of which will be obvious from the following description takenin connection with the accompanying drawings, in which.

Fig. l'is a view in side elevation of a portion of the working mechanism for a machine embodying the several features of the invention; Fig. 2

is a sectional view on an enlarged scale of the work. support and presser, together with-a portion of a moccasin illustrating the manner-oi operation of the presser directly after work feed With the escapes Fig." is: asimilar wiewsoiothe same; parts illust'rating the positions assumed when the lwork is clamped; :Fig. *4. is a sectional. plan view. ottthe same parts in lthe ptisitions oi mg. (3; Fig. Isis a detail view inside elevatiun atifurtheren largedsoale ofxthemresser tip; Ei'gi 6'is ran and wiew of the work engaging suriaoesron the :presser tip; Fig. "7- is abottom plan view Sofv-thetip; Fig; '8 is a detail view: in plan lookingrrom above the work supportiand :presser tip illustrating the after being ecured together.

The illustrated machine, in its-construction and mode o'f operation'is similar; except as hereindicating the relation o fthe I I dicated at :l a. roithelvamp-is vcut with a greater radiusthamthe-outer edgeportionlfl of: the top piece all, so: that when .:the edges are brought together, the shape otthe completed upper will approximate more unearlytthe shape into which it=is tolfoe lasted. .uzIn most instances, the curvature of 'the.'flatftened vamp is chosen to cause an obtuse" angle. 22 :to i be donned; as indicated nin 1'3,:lwith the toprpi'ece; particularly at the toe endwheref the greatest stretching and shaping ordinarily occur during lasting operations, althoughwhere the vamp is out to include the heel end ot the uppe1-,it1is usual, for purposes or economyin upper material, to cut the inner concave edge For the vamp with a radius somewhat less than. the radiusor-curvature along the outer edge :of the top piece. In such cases,ywhen the edgesiof the top piece and vamp are brought into register; the surfaces of the pieces may ex-tend.

attanian'gle of approximately 180.

"Wheremachine such as disclosed-in the patents referred to areemployedgthe innerand inaT-ter described, to that of the Ashworth patent above referred to. "The machine is equipped with a curved hook needle 2, a curved work penetrating and :feeding awl 4, a work support 6; a horn 8 having a presser secured thereto; 'a' r'otary hook 1-0 which. carries' loopskof needl'efthread over a locking tlu ead case contained-therein, and other stitch forming and thread hand-ling devicesof are secured forming a part of the machine frame to which the work the usual "form." The needle andawl to carriers mounted' in a bracket l2 support is clamped. Thea-needle and awl "carriers are actuated to cause "the needle to enter the work from above, follow-ing therawl ccloselyas it leaves the work at the opposite side. I When outer edges or the vamp and top iece, which are to be united, are b'eveled at angle approximating BOPJsQthat when the faces 24 and "2B of the respective bevels-are brought into register, the acute angle 2-8 will be '60' betweenfthe outer surfaces along the edges, the stitches passing through the inner shoulder along the bevels and intersecting the bevel races; Before-sewing the edgesdt has heretofore been found necessary to fasten them temporarily together, due to the tendencyofthe edgesto separate as aresu'lt of being flexed "from an obtuse angular relationthe -awlwithdraws from the'work, it isjback fed the length of a stitch and again penetrates the work. "The "awl 'feedsthe'work with awstep-gbystep movement during successive sewing cycles;

During feeding movement or the work, the pres sure 'of the presser'on the work is relieve'dandthe awl and work move in the 'cl-irecti'on of feed to a position with the awl perforation in line with the needle. The work support is formed with a v-n'otch, the inner work engaging surfaces of which are disposed at an acute angle to each other. "The *presserha's a similar acute angle shape and is formed as disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 23041964, granted December 15, 1 942, uponan application filed in the name of Francis R. "Speight, with vertical notches spaced a stitchlengthapart in the work pene-' trat-ing path of the aw; andin .linewith'th'e path of the needle, respectively. When the pressure on the work'is relieved, the presser moves away from'the needle and 'awl sufficiently to enable the and toymove freely from alignment iwithithe first vertical notch in the ,presser to the second vertical notch, the notches being (if-substantially the same shape so that thesame areas of the work about the needle are compressed .by .the presser after each feedingmovement as were compressed about the awl.

The toppiece and .vamp of :a moccasintype upper areindioated at Hand +6 in Fig.

attached to a sole. r wIn order tolprovidez anrea'sily lasted upper, the inner :concaveied-g'e portion in- 10 aresewed together Ibeforelthe vamp is lastedor I supportzand the. top piec'eM A is crowded out of.

ship remote from the edges into an 'acuteangular relationship along the edges. For this purpose, the faces and "26 of the top piece and vamp are temporarily united with cement in the positions at which they are intended to besewed. Due to handlingwhile being carried from one operating'station to another, the piecesmay become uncemen ted and displaced from' each other ,sotha't before sewing operations can :be started,

the correct relative positions of the parts must berestored. Theaction of the ipjresserin clamping. the "118113523150 tends to edges during sewing.

Thefmachine of the patents is provided with a work support and a presser for clamping the moccasin pieces with their cemented bevel faces inth'e path of-operation 0f the stitch forming devices. ll. the moccasin pieces I4 and I6 are displaced along their edges from each other or if the cement bond is of insuiiicient strength to hold separate their beveled the pieces together-properly during sewing, the

tendency is for the edge-of "the vamp to be forced intotheapexi'of the work support 30 as the sewingnperation approaches the portions l8 and 20 of. greatest curvature along the edges of the pieces. When this-"occurs, the edge of the vamp |=6...ent-ersu=too far/within the apex of the work the apex, the. thinness. of the bevel edges aifording insufiicient strength-to enable them. to be r guidedaccurately. 1 This .-action may be so slight as .to escape atcasual inspection of the completed upper, [but in extreme-cases, the seam may run passentirely oli the top piece, the needle andxaw'l ing between the meetingedges. g

The Inachineo'f .the present invention is so;-constructed and arranged that the separated bevelfaces on the top. and vamp pieces for .a, moccasin l type :shoe upper-may "be guided towards eachother and united with *a permanent uniform seam without thednecessi-t-yof any preliminary shaping or temporary cementing operations, the difl'iculties encountered in handling the temporarily cemented piecesthereby being eliminated. Furthermore, the sewing operation, in which the pieces are permanently united, being combined with the assembling operation, it is possible for the machine operator to give his full attention to proper location and direction of the pieces while being sewed, with the assurance that when correctly assembled, the relative positions will be retained. Thus there are beneficial results obtained from their edges in the usual way and are presented in unattached relation to the machine with the starting ends of the bevel faces in alignment. When the machine begins to operate, the vamp I6 is forced by movement of the presser into the apex of the work support to crowd the meeting faces of the bevels on the pieces into register, rather than merely to clamp the temporarily cemented pieces in position as heretofore, the presser and the work support being constructed and arranged to accentuate the crowding action while enabling the operator to guide and control the pieces with little or no efiort.

Another feature of the present method of assembling a moccasin upper, which contributes effectively to an improvement in ease of manipulation of the upper pieces during sewing and in quality of the product resulting, consists, in addition to utilizing the bevel faces of each piece independently to bring the edges into register, of

28 of Fig. 13 into the obtuse relationship indi-' cated by the angle 22. As .a result of holding the top piece in flattened condition at and in advance of the sewing point, all of the flexure required to bring the bevel faces on the pieces into register is taken up at the sewing point by the vamp. The relation of the pieces when the toe is reached is indicated in Fig. 10,

' the sewed portions diverging from an acute angle or tongue piece of the upper is held in substantially flattened condition at and in advance of thesewing point. As soon as the sewing operations are started, the leading end of the notch in the work support acts progressively to bring the beveled edges together along its work engaging surfaces which are disposed at an acute angle to each other, the outer surfaces of the pieces assuming positions at the same angle as that of the notch in the work support, both along and remote from the edges of the pieces, until the toe portion of the seam is reached. Until the toe portion is reached, the seam has insufiicient curvature to produce any displacing effort betweenthe moccasin pieces. As the bevel faces are brought into register aboutthe toe portions of the seam, however, the pattern in which the pieces are cut tends to cause the outer surfaces remote from the edges to assume an obtuse angular relationship instead of acute angle positions, but the portions of the seam already sewn resist the change.

Inovercoming the resistance offered, the pieces themselves are flexed by the presser from the acute angle relationship indicated by the angle atthe edges to an obtuse angle remote from the edges'while the unsewed portions tend to hold their separated and flattened condition. While sewing the toe portion of the seam, the top piece is turned gradually within its own plane and the vamp is bent while being crowded by the presser into the apex of the V-notch in the work support. After leaving the work support, the sewed portions of the pieces are released from engagement by the presser so that the bent vamp tends to straighten out and the flattened top piece takes up the flexure released from the vamp, thus balancing the .forces tending to bend the pieces along the seam line.

Not only is the top piece more easily manipulated while held in flattened condition, but the flexure required to-bring the bevel faces on the pieces into register at the sewing point. For this reason, there is a, greater tendency for the sewed edges to gap in a completed moccasin sewed according to prior methods.

To prevent the force of the presser while acting to crowd the edge of one moccasin piece into the apex of the Work support from displacing the edge of the other piece, the illustrated machine is provided with a centering gage in the form of a fin 30 secured between two separable portions of the work support at the apex of the angle formed by the work engagingsurfaces. At the leading edge of the fin 3i) is an enlarged area 32 to insure entrance between the bevel faces on the pieces with the greatest possible degree of curvature along, the toe. Opposite the point of sewing operations, the fin 30 extends in the direction of feed sufiiciently to enter'a short distance between the edges of the moccasin pieces, theexposed edge 3d of the fin clearing the seam line so as not to interfere with the needle and awl. By this construction, the 10- cations of the edges on the moccasin pieces are correctly maintained at all times.

For purposes of improving visibility and convenience in manipulation of the temporarily cemented moccasin pieces while being sewed, the top piece I4 is usually presented to the lower work engaging surface of the work support and the vamp to the uppermost work engaging sur face, the vamp being narrower than the top piece, thus interfering to a less degree with the operators line of vision. With the construction of the present machines, the separated moccasin pieces are intended to be presented in the same manner as previously.

The presser of the present machine has its work engaging surfaces disposed at the same angle as those within the notch in the work sup port and is provided with a divided tip, the upper section 36 of which acts with a yielding pressure: om-the: ramp;-atwflioth.v sides; ofizthe paths ofxneedle and awlat'o 355181;? in securing" the vamp in position while flexing the edge and crowding it intov conformity'with the an leuof theawork support. against: the; centering fingatgthe apex, of i the angle. The; other ;1cwer,:section;x3&:iofc:the

tip is provided with 'a, surface.- having. araised portion 40; acting: separately. orrthe top-piece. oi the: moccasin atza. location along: thewseamz line with reference -.tothe: direction rot: feed in ad: Vance: onlyiot theneedle and awl pathsasot-that V dition both at the; edge'and. remotetfromsthe as; the presser 1 moves towards the work support in.v clamping "the work, theretis abtendcnc'yr: to urgerthe edge otthe: ton pieceralon mthait pore tion which is, entering-the notch: of; the: work support from r the ymore into 1 the apex of the work; support than .1 along: the; s w d portion of. the; top: piece 1 1 edge which L15 leavin theuworlc support at thee-loft. With sca lion arrangement; when: the: toe; portion of: theumoce casin seam is reached. thcizclamningection oi the presser foot causes a .moveme be: imparted to the 116111 1 6 3 he dircction of the: arrow tzml iight) without requirinsl emt sne ciakefioiit'on'the part ot theoperatort ens sibling; the operator to give a full: att ntionim omaninuiation ofithe-vamp;1 i t The; Mam-p engaging section -fifi oithe; .n csser tip :is a; on wedge shape at i s: forward morn 11 gaging end. and is roughened; tiwith. ;.elonea d protections 44aiextendin rparalleito theline oi feed, for obtaining a hetterlzgrin on the vamp-to cause it. to be-urged moron-deep y :into :the apex T Offlthfiv worksupport: zwhenwthcu presser :ciamns the work. Connecting the forward cnd.rofw.. he Dr e ip section 3815: a semi-circu ar shank shdinolv mounted inrthe. upper-4.11mi ot a round socketAfl in the hornandi hailing ,atthe dentition: posits its. work uengaainglqend tat c il y c rcular seat 145 against which rill-1Q Q nD BSS Il nu fi ing- Meets. The socket 48 is arranged in thethoi n to enable. the vamp engagin tinScctiQncfi .0 slide; in. the .dixcctionz; "of Presser imow mcn t wardsancl fromxrtheWMk.sunpo 'tn ne sprint 50:; is retained. withima passage watthe :unncr end Oflthe hornbla'iiniine twithzthesc ket andg s heldundencompressionw hot n: adjustable set screw 52 threaded into; hey sn neqzreta nins passage.v i t t The lower top piece. engagingsectionwta of the Dresser tin-is rout iaway along its work-{engaging end to sformw-the raised :portionrfll; which 118} on its work engagingface a series .ofelongate gnrow ieictions. similar to :those indicated fiat M :on the vampiengagingzsection of the tips; he shank of: the top pieces-engaging section "38 .SNOf semi-a circular shape fitting withinuathe Jewell; half 1. f the socket 4% in :the chem: 8 and being w secured rigidly; within the :socketaby a clamp -screw id passing through. thesidc walls, of the socket into the shankofkthesection 38a The fully circular end of the vamp engaging tipsectifln ,36 inotlpnly forms theseat 4E iforfthespring ziiiobut overlies thesend of :the section :38 i. to vprovide I-a limiting stop resisting-the forward movement. of ithe sectionflfiunder the influencesof the springJ SO "(see Fig. *2). The two sectionszare so arr nged: that before 'thesworki is clamped during each sewin cycle; the :vampengaging section fifiniproiects towards the corresponding :work engaging 1 surface onothe work? support somewhatiurthfih han the top piece wengaging section 33 :to its 'ccifrer' spending workt'support surface. A the ipressei tip moves towardsthe workrsupportglthcsec on first. engages andscrowds wthev rv lfrmxtirtto the N;

stantial areaoi the tODwDiQQG, as. ill ustrated Figs; 8 and 9'.

The, pressen ttip .acts, with. the plate to flatten the top picce at; thesame time or directly after the vamp is crowded into the apexof the. worksupport. during each-sewing cycle. The toppieceswpporting plateue-xtends akenwp ace T only slightly beyondcthe sewing; .point; in the...di-= rection of feed to enable the moccasimpieces to assume, a. relationship determined; by: the-force's set up in 'thespieces dnringksewing the. sewed portion of the. top pieceheing; unsupported afterleaving the plate; .58.: Afton thento-p. piece leaves. the supporting plate, the .fiexect vamp tends to straighten out and the:flattenedltophpieoettakes up the fiexure releasedfcrom thehvampuntitthe. resilient forces within thei piecessubstantially balance each, othen- When this occurs,, the posit tions of the pieces. will enable lthecseam toash sumc smoothly pro ressing :chansen curvature around the toolportiomwithout irregularitiessore dineril-gresulting from inaccurate register; of:

the .beyelfaces the edges of v the pieces. and

will producea uniformly; tightiointwith a maxi mum; possible pressure shct tecn. theg egzposedi edges of one picces,.-.tendina to hold theiedges eetheriagainst thest ndencyuto. gape The shape of the seamwiththe ztonlpiecc heldnat, Willconform mor 'ec uretel-y to. the ccnfiguration f; th ton ni ce. nd w iiceuse. the. commeted,

occasintc have a hotter shancjion la'S-t nBU-D'Hl:

pos s; than thos moccasin;upperssewedt b men formin the; :t p niece-with an; angular flange around i s ma sn. t

The :mechanismfor actua n thelnress'erto;

wards andtrom the work sup-port during each sewinsfiycle isthc same as employed inthe smart chin ot? the patents above identified This; mec nismconsist briefly; ofrza linkqit connecting the horn -8 abovets. .tulcrumwith a floating lever.

11. a: link 1.62 a connecting the lever ca. with. a Presser foot: actuating spring ;4., a presses foot lock 55 :connected. to the fulcrum the floating lever and actuated a 1 lever 68 iengasinaa m one sewins their; 11!] and i a cam actuated love:

spring it .l Inenthas, A. it the snrih ifit ordii ne ily i ufficient. tQHQKf M the ressure of thc-snrinsifitifcrn ssfiemins cthet the ac. tion oiheoresset vo rs na hs occ w thenetch nature ,t. toq ondiust.thctsetscrewiir i l notcbeesemns ssedsinii yicl in lucnsaacs thermal M i he zprc ser; heats is.-

necessary, in order that the top piece will be clamped securely, to adjust the timing of the lock 66 and the connection between the link 14 along a'slot 16 in the lever I2 so that after the fulcrum for the floating lever is locked in each sewin'g cycle, there will be a positive movement imparted to the horn B.

The fulcrum for the horn 8 consists of an eccentric pivot l'l, the eccentric portion of which is adjustably secured by a set screw I8 within a bracket 80 fast on the machine frame to insure that the section 36 of the presser will engage the moccasin vamp before the presser section 38 engages the top piece. The horn is formed with spaced bearing portions, as indicated in Fig. 11,

surrounding'the' ends of the pivot 11, so that when the pivot is rotated, it will cause the horn to be raised or lowered with respect to the work support. I

' The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, and anembodiment of the invention having been specifically described, what is claimed is: I

'1. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of the bevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper and simultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, the combination with a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle with relation to each other and extending in the direction of feed, a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the pieces into the apex formed by the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work support, and stitch forming devices including a work penetrating instrument operating across the apex of the work support, of guiding means on the work support arranged to engage the bevel faces of the pieces to bring the edges progressively into register with the bevel faces in the path of the stitch forming devices.

2. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of the bevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper and simultaneously inserting a permanent seam alon theedges, the combination with a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at an anglewith relation to each other and extending in the direction of feed, a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the pieces into the apex formed by the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work support, and stitch forming devices including a work penetrating instrument operating across the apex of the work support, of a gage at the apex of the work support arranged to extend between the bevel faces of the pieces and to bring the edges of the pieces into register progressively with the bevel faces in the path of the stitch forming devices.

3. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges-of the bevel edged 'top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper and simultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, the combination with stitch forming devices including a work penetrating instrument, and a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle with relation to each other and extending in the direction of feed and a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edges into the apex formed by the angularly disposed work penetrating instrument,- anda tip on the presser constructed and actuated to clamp the moccasin pieces separately during each sewing cycle.

4. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of the bevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper and simultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, the combination with stitch forming devices including a work penetrating instrument, and a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle with relation to each other and extending in the direction of feed'and a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edges into the apex' formed by the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work support with the bevel faces registering in the path of opera tion of the stitch forming devices, of a centering fin on the work support extending in the direction of feed from the apex of the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work sup port opposite the point of operation of the work penetrating instrument.

5. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of the bevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin .type shoe upper and simultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, the combination with stitch forming devices including a work penetrating instrument, a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle with relation to each other and extending in the direction of feed, a work supporting horn actuated towards and from the apex of the angularly disposed surfaces on the work support, and a presser acting to clam the moc-' casin pieces against said angularly disposed work engaging surfaces, of a divided tip on the presser, the parts of which are relatively movable, for enabling the presser to engage the moccasin pieces and to move the pieces separately towards the apex of the work support while clamping them.

. 6. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of the bevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper and simultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, the combination with stitch forming de-. vices including a work penetrating instrument, a work support having fixed work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle with relation to each other and extending in the direction of feed to form an apex, a work supporting horn actuated" towards and from the apex of the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work support, and a presser acting to clamp the moccasin pieces against the angularly disposed surfaces of the work support, of a yielding tip on the presser having a work engaging surface roughened with elongated projections extending parallel to the line of feed for causing the presser tip to urge the moccasin piece engaged thereby towards the apex of the work support while clamping said piece.

7. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of the bevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper and simultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, the combination with stitchforming devices including a work penetrating instrument, a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle with relation to each other and extending in the direction of feed, a work supporting horn actuated towards and from the apex of the. angularly disposed'surfaces onthe work support, and a presser acting to. clamp th moccasin pieces against said angularly 'dis-L assumes,

posed workengagi ngsurfaces, of a divided tip on the presser, the partsof which are relativelymovable, for enabling the presser to engage the moocasin piecesseparately and tomove towards the apex of the worksupportafter clamping one of said pieces, and a centering gage for preventing one moccasin piece from displacing the edge of the other piece from the apex of the work support while being clamped. *8. In a machine forbringing together progressively theedges of the bevel edgedtop and vamp pieces of a moccasin type,she upper andfsimultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, 'the combination withstitch forming devices including a work penetrating instrument, a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle with relation to each otherv and extending in the direction of feedga work supporting horn actuated towards andfrom the apex of the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work support, of a divided tip having surfaces disposed at an angle to each other correspondingwith the angle of the work engaging surfaces onthe work support and comprising relatively movable sections, one of which is rigidly secured to'the hornand the other of which isrnounted to yield on the hornin the direction of movement of the horn towardsand from the work support to cause" the tipsectionse cured rigidly tothe horn to crowd the moccasin piece engaged thereby into the apex of the work support before the other of 'said moccasin pieces is clamped. 1

9. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of the bevel edged top and vamp pieces ofa moccasin type shoe upper and simultaneously inserting a permanent seamalong' the edges, the combinationwith stitchforming de vi'cesincluding a work penetratinginstrument, a

work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle with relation to each other and extending in the direction of feedand a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edges into the apex formed by the ang'ularlydisposed work engaging surfaces of the work support with the port aduring each sewing ccy'cle before the top piece is clamped. it i 11.;In" a machine: for: bringing. together progressively the edges of the bevel edged? top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper and simultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, the combination with stitch "forming devicesincluding a work penetrating instrument,

a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at anangle with relation to each other andextending in the direction of feed and a presseracting onthe pieces to crowd the edges into the apex formed by the 'angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work support with the bevel faces registering in the path of operation of the stitch forming devices, of a plate onthe worksupport'for supporting the top piece of the upper-in "flattened condition both at the edge and remote from the edge to cause all the flexure atthe sewing point required in bringing the bevel faces into register to be taken up by the vamplofthe assembledmoccasinupper, and

a divided tip on'the presser having a yielding section acting on the vamp and extending closer towards the adjacent surface on the work supportbefore clampingthe moccasinpiecesthan the-other section'to 'its' adjacent work support be'velfaces registering inthe path of operation of the stitch forming devices, of a plate on the work support forfisupporting the top piece of the upper in flattened condition both at the edge and remote from the edge to cause all the flexure at the sewing point required in bringing the bevel faces into register 'tobe taken up bythe vvamp of the assembled moccasin upper. 10. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of t the bevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin typelshoe upper and surface to cause the edge-of the vamp to be crowdedinto the apex of the work supportflbeforethetop piece is' clamped. i

12;In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of the bevel edged top and vamp pieces ofa moccasin type shoe upper and simultaneously insertinga permanent seam along the edges, the combination with stitch forming devices including a work penetrating instrumerit, a Work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at anangle with relation to each other-and extending in the direction of feed and a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edges into the apex formed by the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work suppor'tkwith the bevel faces registering in the pathof operation oi the stitch-forming devices,

of a-plateon the work supportfor supportingth'e top piece4of the upper in flattened condition both at the edge'andremote from the edge to'eause all the "fiexure at the sewing point resimultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, the combination with stitch forming devices including a work penetrating instrument, a work support having work engagin'gsur-;

faces disposed at an angle with relation to each otherand extending in the direction of" feed and a presser acting on the pieces tofcrowd the edges into the apex formed by the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the worksupport with i the bevel faces registering in the path of operation of the stitch forming devices, of a plate on thework support fonsupportingthe top piece of the upper in flattened condition both at the edge and remote from the edge to causeall the flexure at the sewing point required in bringing thebevel faces into register to be taken up by i the vamp of the assembled moccasin upper, and autip on the presser constructed and actuated to crowd the vamp intothe apex of theWork"supwork' support more firmly towards the the sewed portion of the top" piece edge.

l3. In a machine for bringing together pro gressively the edges of the bevel edgedtop and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper and simultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, the combinationwith stitch forming devices" including a work penetrating instrument, a work support having work engaging sur-'" faces disposed at an angle with relation to each other and extending in the direction of feed and a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edgesinto the apex formed by the angularly disposed workengaging surfaces ofthe work support with the'bevel faces registering in the path of operation of the stitch formingdevices,

apex than of a plate onthe' w'or'k' support for supporting the top piece of the upper in flattened condition both at the edge and remote from the edge to cause all the flexure at the sewing point required in bringing the bevel faces into register to be taken up by the vamp of the assembled moccasin upper, and a tip on the presser acting on the moccasin top piece at a location with reference to the direction of work feed in advance only of the pointof operation of the penetrating instrument to cause the presser while crowding the top piece into the apex of the work support to urge the edge of the top piece along that portion which is entering the notch of the work support more firmly towards the apex than the sewed portion of the top piece edge and acting on the moccasinvamp along the seam line at both sides the point of operation of the penetrating instrument to crowd the vamp uniformly into the apex of the work support.

14. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edge of the bevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin type shoe upper and simultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, the combination with stitch forming devices including a work penetrating instrument, a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle with relation to each other V and extending in the direction of feed and a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edges into the apex formed by the angularly disposed work engagin surfaces of the work support with the bevel faces registering in the path of operation of the stitch forming devices, of a tip 'on the presser provided with a first surface having a raised portion acting on the top piece of the moccasin at a location along the seam line in advance only of the point of operation of the penetrating instrument and With a second surface at an angle to the first surface acting on the vamp of the moccasin along the seam line at both sides the point of operation of the penetrating instrument.

15. In a machine for bringing together progressively the edges of the bevel edged top and vamp pieces of a moccasin typeshoe upper and simultaneously inserting a permanent seam along the edges, the combination with stitch forming device including a work penetrating instrument, a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle with relation to each other and extending in the direction of feed and a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edges into the apex formed by the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work support with the bevel faces registering in the path of operation of the stitch forming devices, of a tip on the presser provided with a first surface having a raised portion acting on the top piece of the moccasin at a location along the seam line in advance only of the point of operation of the penetrating instrument and with a second surface at an angle to the first surface acting on the vamp of the moccasin along the seam line at both sides the point of operation of the penetrating instrument, and means for causing the second 1 surface of the presser tip to engage the moccasin vamp before the first surface engages the top piece. I

16. In a machine for sewing the top or tongue and side pieces for an unlasted moccasin shoe upper cut to be assembled with the outer surfaces diverging from each other and the surfaces along the edges disposed at an angle with relation to each other smaller-than the angle more remote from the edges, the combination with stitch forming devices including a work penetrating instrument, a work support having work engagin surfaces disposed at an angle corresponding to that of the outer surfaces along the edges of' the moccasin pieces, and a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edges into the apex of the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work support, of a centering fin on the work support opposite the point of operation of the work penetrating instrument extending in the direction of feed between the edges of the moccasin pieces opposite the operating point of the penetratin instrument with its exposed edge clear of the seam line.

17. In a machine for sewing the top or tongue and side pieces for an unlasted moccasin shoe upper cut to be assembled with the outer surfaces diverging from each other and the surfaces along the edges disposed at an angle with relation to each other smaller than the angle more remote from the edges, the combination with stitch forming devices including a work penetrating instrument, a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle correspondingto that of the outer surfaces along the edges of the moccasin pieces, and a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edges into the apex of the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work support, of a divided tip on the presser the parts of which are relatively movable for causing the presser to cl m the moccasin pieces separately, and mechanism for actuating the presser to urge the side piece within the apex of the angularly disposed surfaces of the work support before the top piece is clamped.

18. In a machine for sewing the top or tongue and side pieces for an unlasted moccasin shoe upper cut to be assembled with the outer surfaces divergin from each other and the surfaces along the edges disposed at an angle with relation to each other smaller than the angle more remote from the edges, the combination with stitch forming devices including a work penetrating instrument, a work support having Work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle, corresponding to that of the outer surfaces along the edges of the moccasin pieces, and a presser acting on the pieces to crowd the edges into the apex of the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work support, of a tip on the presser provided with a first surface acting on the top piece of the moccasin and a second surface at an angle to the first surface acting on the side piece of the moccasin,

,and an adjustable pivot about which the presser is actuated towards and from the work support for changing the position of the presser at right angles to its path of actuation towards and from the work support to cause one of said presser tip surfaces to engage a work piece before the other.

19. The method of progressively assembling the top piece and vamp of a moccasin type shoe having their meeting edges beveled which comprises imparting a step-by-step feeding movement to the pieces lengthwise of their edges into positions determined by guiding means acting along the bevel surfaces of the pieces to bring the edges into register progressively, and separately clamping the pieces in each position while thus registered between successive feeding movements.

20. The method of progressively assembling and securing together the top piece and vamp of a moccasin type shoe having their uncemented' meeting edges beveled which comprises impart- ---ship with the top piece while maintaining the top 21. The method of uniting the edges of the top and vamp pieces for an unlasted moccasin shoe upper cut with a pattern to be assembled with the outer surfaces diverging from each other at an obtuse angle and formed with bevels on the meeting edges to cause the outer surfaces along the edges to assume an acute angular relationship when the faces of the bevels are brought into register including the steps of flexing the vamp along the edge from obtuse angular relationship with the top piece into acute angular relationship with the top piece while maintaining the top piece substantially in flattened condition to bring the bevel faces into register, fastening I theflexed edge of the vamp to the flattened top piece, and thereafter releasing the fastened pieces to enable the flexure in the vamp to be transferred at least partially to the edge of the top piece.

22. The method of uniting the edges of the top and vamp pieces for an unlasted moccasin shoe upper cut with a pattern to be assembled with the outer surfaces diverging from-each other at an obtuse angle and formed with bevels on the meeting edges to cause the outer surfaces along the edges to assume an acute angular relationship when the faces of the bevels are brought into register, including the steps of flexing the vamp along the edge from obtuse angular relationship with the top piece into acute angular relationship with the top piece while maintaining the top piece substantially in flattened condition to bring the bevel faces into register, sewing the flexed edge of the vamp to the flattened top piece with stitches passing through the registering bevel faces, and thereafter releasing the sewed pieces to enable the flexure in the vamp to be transferred, at least partially, to the edge of the top piece.

23. The method of uniting the edges of the top and vamp pieces for an unlasted moccasin shoe upper cut with a pattern to be assembled with the outer surfaces diverging from each other at an obtuse angle and formed with bevels on the meeting edges to cause the outer surfaces along the edges to assume an acute angular relationship when the faces of the bevels are brought into J register, including the steps of flexing the vamp along the edge from obtuse angular relationship with the top piece into acute angular relationpiece substantially in flattened condition to bring the bevel faces into register, sewing the flexed edge of the vamp to the flattened top piece with stitches passing through the registering bevel faces, turning the flattened top piece within its own plane while sewing about the toe portion of the seam, and releasing the sewed pieces to enable the bent edge of the vamp to straighten and the flattened top piece to be bent along its edge by pressure of the bevel face on the vamp.

24. The method of uniting the edges of the top and vamp pieces for an unlasted moccasin shoe upper cut with a pattern to be assembled with the outer surfaces diverging from each other at an obtuse angle and formed with bevels on the meeting edges to cause theouter surfaces along the edges to assume an acute angular relationship when the faces of the bevels are brought into register, including the steps of flexing the vamp progressively along the edge from obtuse angular relationship with the top piece into acute angular relationship with the top piece while maintaining the top piece in flattened condition to bring the bevel faces on both pieces into register, sewing the flexed edge of the vamp to the flattenecl top piece as the bending operation progresses with stitches passing through the registering bevel faces, and releasing the sewed pieces continuously, directly following the sewing operation, to enable at least a portion of the flexure in the vamp to be transferred progressively to the side piece.

25. In a machine for sewing the top or tongue and side pieces for an unlasted moccasin shoe upper cut to be assembled with the outer surfaces diverging from each other and the surfaces along the edges disposed at an angle with re lation to each other smaller than the angle more remote from the edges, the combination with stitch forming devices including a work penetrating instrument, a work support having work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle corresponding to that of vthe outer surfaces along the edges of the moccasin pieces, and a presser acting onthe pieces to crowd the edges into the apex of the angularly disposed work engaging surfaces of the work support, of a centering fln on the work support opposite the point of operation of the work penetrating instrument arranged to engage the pieces and to act with the work support in bringing the edges of the pieces progressively into register in the path of the stitch forming devices.

FRED ASHWORTH.

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