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US2364031A - Brilliant type diamond and method of cutting the same - Google Patents

Brilliant type diamond and method of cutting the same Download PDF

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US2364031A
US2364031A US545968A US54596844A US2364031A US 2364031 A US2364031 A US 2364031A US 545968 A US545968 A US 545968A US 54596844 A US54596844 A US 54596844A US 2364031 A US2364031 A US 2364031A
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facets
blocking
diamond
pavilion
bezel
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Suderov Max
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PATENTED DIAMOND Inc
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/001Faceting gems

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  • This invention relates to a method of cutting and polishing diamonds; more particularly, to a method of cutting and polishing the briliiant type of diamonds. and the resuitant product.
  • the diamond most commercialiy available'in the trade today is the brilliant type. Whether such diamonds are in sizes varying from twenty to the carat to one or two carats, they have found greatest favor commercially. Because of their symmetrical proportions. they lend themselves readily to brillianteeing operations conducive, to a certain extent, to quantity production methods, as distinguished from Odd shapes, which may be characterized as custom made, where the labor of brillianteering or facetting formation is of no material consequence.
  • the experienced diamond cutter takes ad- Vantage of the crystallographic axes of the diamond crystal for securing the optimum polishing effects v'hich, based upon the fact that the crystallographic axes are at right angles to each other, determine the division or blocking for the grinding operation to form the facets. other than the table and culet, by a series of symmetrical i'acets most nearly nemal to the growth lines or .grain, and that with this as a guide, to thereupon polish perpendicular to the grain. This has resulted in a group of iacets based, first.
  • the former system operating on the basis of the four main blocking cuts, places a limitation upon the faceting operation; the triangulation system, being concerned with peculiar shapes oi' facetsI requires unusual skill, in view of the unsymmetrical characteristics of the basic facets and their relation to the crystallographic structure of the diamond.
  • the triangulation system therefore, requires unusual skill and patience of the so-called worker who performs the blocking work and of the brillianteerer. The judgment of these workers must be precise, with constant observation as to "the effect of their work, if at all feasible.
  • the triangulation system therefore, does not lend itself readily to a commercial production of a brillianteered diamond.
  • the brilliance of the diamonds may be increased and the briliianteering operation proceed with a higher degree of unifolmity to the touch of the brillianteerer.
  • the beauty of the brilliant type of diamond is enhanced and the speed of production increased out of proportion to the increased number of facets.
  • Figure 1 is a top plan view of a diamond showing the basic facets. in accordance with one embodiment of my invention.
  • Figure 2 is a bottom view of the diamond shown in Figure l, in which the basic or blocking facets for the crown are shown;
  • Figure ZA is a side eievation view of Figure 1;
  • Figure 3 is a top plan view of adiamond cut from Figure 1, with the brillianteering facets;
  • Figure 4 is a bottom view showing the completedbrillianteering fa'cets on the pavilion
  • Figure 5 is a side eleva'tional view of the diamond, showing the complete crownland pavilion facets
  • Figure 6 is a plan view of a diamond cut in accordance with my invention, to embody a socalled Swiss cut;
  • Figure 'l is a bottom view of the diamond shown in Figure 6, to display the pavilion facets;
  • Figure 8 is a side elevational view of the diamond in accordance with my invention as shown in Figures 6 and 7;
  • Figure 9 is a side elevational view of a diamond cut in accordance with another embodiment of my invention.
  • Figure 10 is a side elevational view of a diamond in accordance with a still further embodiment of my invention.
  • Figure ll is a top view oi' another elnbodiment of my invention, viewed from the direction of the table of the diamond;
  • Figure 12 is a view of the dialnond in accordance with Figure 11, viewed from the pavilion of the diamond;
  • Figure 13 is a side elevational view of the diamond shown in Figures 11 and 12;
  • Figures 14, 15 and 16 are, respectively, the table, pavilion and side views of a diamond formed with the blocking cuts by conventional methods.
  • Figure 1A ⁇ I have diagrammatically shown the natural octahedral crystal from which the upper i'acet T and the lower facet C are formed, to provide the table and cuiet. respectively. These cuts are shown in dotted line, superimposed upon an iliustration of a form the natural octahedral crystal.
  • the difl'erence in hardness in the diamond is frequently explained by the fact that the grain runs in difl'erent directions.
  • the faces h are Parallel to two crystallographic axes which are shaded to indicate the optimum poiishing directions by the arrow heads.
  • Faces d indicated by the direction of the arrow, are also paraliel to a crystaliographic axis.
  • Faces O are inclined to three crystaliographic axes.
  • I provide in one embodiment, twelve basic or blocking cuts, more particuiarly shown in Figure 1, for the bezel portion of the diarnond, providing the table 20, the sides 2! and the blocking or basic facets 22.
  • These basic or blocking facets 22, while symmetricai about the axis pel'pendicular to the table 20, are, in the main, non-coincident or angularly disposed to the three main crystallographic axes of the crystal shown in Figure iA, with reference 'to which the faces h, d and O have been described.
  • the pavilion portion 21 in this embodlment is provided with twelve basic or blocking facets, numbered 28, and with a culet 28a-see Figures 2A and 5, thus outlining the basic or blocking facets shown in Figures 1, 2 and ZA, which includes a relativeiy thick girdle forming portion 29.
  • the twelve basic or biocking facets 22 and 28 for the bezel and paviiion, respectively are constituted by the portions of four cross-worked blocking facets, with two blocking facets intermediate between two of each of the adjacent cross-worked biocking facets.
  • the right angularly directed planar intersecting axes are shown in Figure iA to run midway between the remnants of the four crossworked blocking facets with each of the two intermediate blocking facets therebetween, giving a total of twelve basic facets 22 in the bezel portion and twelve basic facets 28 in the pavilion portion, each subtending an angle of 30. Thereafter, the brillianteering facets are applied.
  • a series of triangular facets 23 are formed by brillianteering to take down a portion of the rib 24, and the corner 25 to form a new table terminating side 26 extending halfway into each of the sides 2! previously described. Repeating these facets twelve times will form a. table of twelve sides, or outline a dodecagon, each side of which table is defined by an edge 26. Thereafter, facets 21a are formed to each side of' the rib line 24 below the apex 28b adjacent the bruted girdle forming portion 29, to form a girdle 29a of half normal thickness at this stage and ieaving twelve polygonal facets 24a. This provides the bezel portion with forty eight brillianteering facets, exclusive of the table.
  • the pavilion facets are formed by superimposing two iacets 32, terminating adjacent the girdle to complete the girdle 29a approximately half the original thickness of the bruted girdle 29. These facets 32 are formed to each side of every rib forming portion 3
  • FIGs 6 to 8 another form of the invention has been disclosed in which the diamond is of Swiss cut, but constructed in accordance with this invention.
  • Figures 6 and '7 show basic or blocking cuts taken.
  • the diamond already has the dodecagon shaped table 32a.
  • This table is formed with twelve sldes 33 which have been formed by taking down the rib as 25 after blocking, as in Figure 1 according to the dodacagon blocking.
  • These twelve sides 33 outline substantially triangular facets 34 which extend compietely with their apices adjacent the girdle 35 of the diamond.
  • In between the Swiss cut facets il there are the blocking or main polished facets IB.
  • Reference numerals 31 illustrate the completed faceted bezei of the diamond.
  • the diamond also is provided with a faceted base or pavilion 38 which consists of twelve radlating polygonal blocking or main facets 39 generally diamond shaped and twenty four smaller outer facets lil generally triangular adjacent the girdl' 35 as provided by taking down a portion oi the rib line Sl (see Figure 2A) of the blocked diamond.
  • a modined form of diamond is disclosed which is made by a combination of the steps used in making the diamond shown in Figi ures and 8.
  • the faceted bezel or crown of the diamond shown in Figure 5 is provided with the facets thereof in combination with the method of forming the faceted pavillon 38 of the diamond shown in Figure 8.
  • the various faceted portions of the crown and of the pavilion have been identved by like reference numerals.
  • FIG. 13 still another design of diamond is shown which we may call a sestodecagon i'or a sixteen blocking cut diamond.
  • This diamont has a table ll i'ormed with sixteen Straight sides ll.
  • the diamond hasa faceted bezel or crown ll which is formed from slxteen triangular inner facets lil adjacent the table ll.
  • the sextodecagon blocking system derives the sixteen bloclring cuts from the remnants of the (our cross-worked blocking facets with three blocking facets intermediate two of each of the adjacent cross-worked blocking facets.
  • the basic or blocking i'acets subtend an angle less than 22.5 and no more than 30 as compared with a subtended angle'of by conventional procedure. While by my invention syrnmetry of the basic or blocklng facets is secured, the shifting of the diamond to present the most efi'ective cross grain of the diamond perpendlcular to the line of rotation of the skeif is minimized.
  • the main facets in the bezel or crown such as the facets 22 in the embodiment Illustrated in Figures 1 to 5. lying between the table and the girdle. and the main pavilion facets lying between the culet and girdle, have their widest dimensions subtend an angle no greater than 30.
  • the central or main facets 49 of the bezei H lying between the table and the girdle Si, and the main facets 53 lying between the culet and the girdle likewise subtend an angle, at their greatest dimension, no greater than 22.5".
  • the principal facets as Well as' the facets adjacent the girdle and table, each subtend an angle no more than 30l and. in instances, no more than 22.5, providing a relatlonship of the surfaces faceted to the grain of the gem which simplifles the rate of brillianteering.
  • the basic or blocking facets likewise are formed to subtend an angle less than 30 and, in instances, 22.5, to carry out the same relationship of grain lines to the line of rotation of the skeif. greatly simplifying the blccking as well as the brillianteering operation.
  • the symmetry of the formation of the blockin facets or the brillianteering operation provides uniformity of touch to the brillianteer. increasing the speed of production.
  • the polygonal facets appearing on the crown or bezel and on the pavilion are elongate and at no timeflsubtend an angle greater than 40 A iacets where the facets are preferably iormed to subtend an angle of 30, though 22.5 is contemplated for a diamond based uponsixteen blocking or basic cuts. Symmetry of 4facets, to form an V ⁇ even number, is preferred and, accordingly.
  • subtended angle may be less than 22.5 within these prescriptions as to symmetry of location.
  • the brilliant-cut type diamond in accordance with one embodiment of my invention will be reierred to as to dodecagon blocking system, which is applicable to the bezel portion, the pavilion portion or to both of these portions.
  • the brilliant-cut type diamond will be rei'erred to as the sextodecagon blocking system, which is likewise applicable to the bezel portion, the pavilion portion ,or to both of these portions.
  • the bezel portion may be made in accordance with my invention under the dodecagon blocking system or the sextodecagon blocking system and the pavilion portion oi such a type diamond may be made under the ootason blocking system.
  • the bezel portion may be made under the Octagon blocking system' and the pavilion portion made under the dodecagon or sextodecagon blocking system. The combination may be foundvexpedient due to a condition oi' the bruted stock and the grain condition of the diamond in the bruted stock employed.
  • l'dodecagon blocking system and the sextodecagon blocking system
  • l'. mean to include the formation o! the basic 'blocking cuts of tour cross-worked blocking cuts with two and three intermediate blocking cuts respectively between two o! each oi' adjacent cross-worked blocking cuts, providing, respectively, twelve and Six-- teen blocking cui's which are each of substantially the same magnitude.
  • I mean to include thereby the polishing operation for dlamonds i'or the i'ormation of a triangular iacet by polishing the intersectine corners of two blocking iacets and the table o r girdle. as distinguished from a blocking facet which extends the full length between th gil'dle to either the table or culet.
  • crown portlons thereof blocking cuts directed by cross-working to provide four cross-worked blocking faoets with at least two intermediate blocklng tacets between two oi' each of the adjacent crossworked blocking facets each of which subtend an angle less than 40, extending between at least the table and culet axially and the'girdle peripherally, and imposing brlllianteering facets on the block .ing cuts thus formed.
  • the steps which include torming the table and culet, providing symmetrically directed biocking facets by crossworking with at least two intermediate blocking iacets between two of each of the adjacent crossworked blocking facets and extending in the crown and pavllion axially'from the table and culet, respectively, to the girdle portion, and circumi'erentially extended symmetrically to subtend an angle in each blocking facetl less than 40.
  • the steps which include i'orming the table and culet and blocking i'acets on the crown and pavilion portions, respectively, by cross-working with no less than two and no more than three Intermediate blocking facets between two of each of the adjacent cross-worked blocking iacets and extending axially from the table and culet, respectively, to the girdle portion perpherally, each blocking facet being substantially equal and subtending an angle oi' the magnitude no greater than 30 and no smaller than 22.5 to provide no less than twelve and no more than sixteen blocking facets on the crown and pavilion, respectively, leaving a girdle portion.
  • magnltude no greater than 30" and no smller than 22.5 to provide no less than twelve an nomore than sixteen blocking facets on the crown and pavilion, respectively, leaving a girdle portionf; and then brillianteering the ridges cut into the table, culet and girdle to provide brilli'anteered i'acets o! polysonai contour, and substantially triangular facets intermediately spaced between the polygonal tacets adjacent the girdle. including the tormation oi substantially triangulari'acets adjacent the table.
  • the intermediate tacets extendingl between'the table and the girdle in the bezel portion and i'rom the culet to the girdle in the pavilion portion, the facets extending between the table and the irdle on the bezel portion beingV tho brillianteered intermediate facets adjacent the table and girdle being substantially triangular.
  • the blocking facets are twelve in number on each of the bezel and pavilion portions and with twelve substantially triangular intermediate brillianteered facets adjacent the table and twenty four intermediate, substantialiy triangular facets adjacent the girdle on the bezel portion, there being formed twenty four substantially triangular intermediate facets on the pavilion portion adjacent the girdle.
  • the blocking facets are sixteen in number on each of the bezel and pavilion portions and with sixteen substantially triangular intermediate brillianteered facets adjacent the table and thirty two interrnediate, substantially triangula facets adjacent the girdle on the bezel portion, there being formed thirty two substantially trianguiar intermediate facets on the pavilion portion adjacent the girdle.
  • a brilliant-cut type diamond having a table and eulet including a faceted bezel and pavilion to each side of the girdle portion, symmetrically disposed main facets on said bezel and pavilion extending to the table and cuiet, outlining symmetrically on said table the corners of at least a twelve straight sided polygon after brillianteering and including between each main facet, brillianteered facets terminating adjacent the girdle.
  • a brilliant-cut type diamond having a table portion, a culet portion and a girdie portion defining the bezel and paviiion of the diamond. having symmetrically disposed main bezel and pavilion facets extended to each side of the girdle axially toward the table and eulet, respectively, of the order of an even number of twelve or greater, with intermediate briilianteered facets adjacent the girdie in the bezel and pavilion portion, the main facets outlining the oorners of a polygon of at least twelve sides on the table.
  • a brilliant-eut type diamond including a table, a eulet disposed to either side of a zil-dle defining a bezel portion and pavilion portion. at least twelve symmetricaliy disposed main facets extending in the bezel and pavilion portion from the table and culet. respectively. to the girdie, Intermediate brillianteered i'acets adjacent the table and intermediate brillianteered facetsbetween each of the main facets adjacent the girdle in the bezel and paviiion portions.
  • a brilliant-cut type diamond including a faceted bezel portion and a pavilion portion to each side ot the girdle portion, and a' table on said bezel portion, at least one of said bezel'and pavilion portions having symmetrically disposed thereon and extending on said bezel and paviiion portions, symmetricaliy disposed main facets based upon the dodecagon blocking system and including to each side of the main facets based upon the dodecagon blocking system, briilianteered facets terminating adjacent the girdle.
  • a brilliant-cut type diamond including a faceted bezel portion and a pavilion portion to each side of the girdle portion and a table on said bezel portion. at least one of said bezel and pavilion portions having symmetrically disposed thereon and extending on said bezel and pavilion portions, symmetrically disposed main facets facets based upon the sextodeeagon blocking system and including to each side of the main facets based upon the sextodecagon blocking system. briliianteered facets terminating 'adjacent the girdle.
  • a bl'illiant-cut type diamond including a table, a culet disposed to either side oi' a girdle defining a bezel portion and a pavilion portion. at least one of said portions having basic facets founded upon the sextodecagon blocking system.
  • facets adjacent the table and girdle being substantially triangular.
  • the blocking facets are twelve in number on each of the bezel and pavilion portions and with twelve substantially triangular intermediate brillianteered facets adjacent the table and twenty four intermediate, substantialiy triangular facets adjacent the girdle on the bezel portion, there being formed twenty four substantially triangular intermediate facets on the pavilion portion adjacent the girdle.
  • the blocking facets are sixteen in number on each of the bezel and pavilion portions and with sixteen substantially triangular intermediate brillianteered facets adjacent the table and thirty two interrnediate, substantially triangula facets adjacent the girdle on the bezel portion, there being formed thirty two substantially trianguiar intermediate facets on the pavilion portion adjacent the girdle.
  • a brilliant-cut type diamond having a table and eulet including a faceted bezel and pavilion to each side of the girdle portion, symmetrically disposed main facets on said bezel and pavilion extending to the table and cuiet, outlining symmetrically on said table the corners of at least a twelve straight sided polygon after brillianteering and including between each main facet, brillianteered facets terminating adjacent the girdle.
  • a brilliant-cut type diamond having a table portion, a culet portion and a girdie portion defining the bezel and paviiion of the diamond. having symmetrically disposed main bezel and pavilion facets extended to each side of the girdle axially toward the table and eulet, respectively, of the order of an even number of twelve or greater, with intermediate briilianteered facets adjacent the girdie in the bezel and pavilion portion, the main facets outlining the oorners of a polygon of at least twelve sides on the table.
  • a brilliant-eut type diamond including a table, a eulet disposed to either side of a zil-dle defining a bezel portion and pavilion portion. at least twelve symmetricaliy disposed main facets extending in the bezel and pavilion portion from the table and culet. respectively. to the girdie, Intermediate brillianteered i'acets adjacent the table and intermediate brillianteered facetsbetween each of the main facets adjacent the girdle in the bezel and paviiion portions.
  • a brilliant-cut type diamond including a faceted bezel portion and a pavilion portion to each side ot the girdle portion, and a' table on said bezel portion, at least one of said bezel'and pavilion portions having symmetrically disposed thereon and extending on said bezel and paviiion portions, symmetricaliy disposed main facets based upon the dodecagon blocking system and including to each side of the main facets based upon the dodecagon blocking system, briilianteered facets terminating adjacent the girdle.
  • a brilliant-cut type diamond including a faceted bezel portion and a pavilion portion to each side of the girdle portion and a table on said bezel portion. at least one of said bezel and pavilion portions having symmetrically disposed thereon and extending on said bezel and pavilion portions, symmetrically disposed main facets facets based upon the sextodeeagon blocking system and including to each side of the main facets based upon the sextodecagon blocking system. briliianteered facets terminating 'adjacent the girdle.
  • a bl'illiant-cut type diamond including a table, a culet disposed to either side oi' a girdle defining a bezel portion and a pavilion portion. at least one of said portions having basic facets founded upon the sextodecagon blocking system.

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Nov. 28, l1944. M. suDERov' 2,364,031
Nov. 28, 1944. M suDERQv 2,364,031
BRILLIANT TYPE DIAMOND AND METHOD OF CUTTING THE SAME Filed July 21, 1944 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 i INVENTOR Max Saderoz/ Nov.4 28, 1944. M. su DEROV 2,364,031
BR I LLI ANT Patented Nov. 28, 1944 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE BRILLIANT TYPE DIAMND AND METHOD OF CUTTYING THE SAME Continuatlon of application Serial No. 527,737, March 23, 1944. This application July 21. 1944,
Serial No. 545,968
New York. N. Y., a.
v 14 Chims. (Cl. 63-32) This invention relates to a method of cutting and polishing diamonds; more particularly, to a method of cutting and polishing the briliiant type of diamonds. and the resuitant product.
This application is a continuation of my application Serial No. 527,737, filed March 23, 1944.
The diamond most commercialiy available'in the trade today is the brilliant type. Whether such diamonds are in sizes varying from twenty to the carat to one or two carats, they have found greatest favor commercially. Because of their symmetrical proportions. they lend themselves readily to brillianteeing operations conducive, to a certain extent, to quantity production methods, as distinguished from Odd shapes, which may be characterized as custom made, where the labor of brillianteering or facetting formation is of no material consequence.
In the production of the brilliant type of diamond, the experienced diamond cutter takes ad- Vantage of the crystallographic axes of the diamond crystal for securing the optimum polishing effects v'hich, based upon the fact that the crystallographic axes are at right angles to each other, determine the division or blocking for the grinding operation to form the facets. other than the table and culet, by a series of symmetrical i'acets most nearly nemal to the growth lines or .grain, and that with this as a guide, to thereupon polish perpendicular to the grain. This has resulted in a group of iacets based, first. upon the cross work of four cuts, and upon an Octagon working, with intermediate briilianteering facets thereupon being formed which are small multiples of the Octagon, in order to secure, exclusive of the table and culet. thirty two facets on the bezel or erown and twenty four facets on the pavilion or base.
Efforts have been made,` as known to me, to provide pentagonal facets by dividing the arran'zement of the facets in both the crown and pavilion on the basis of triangulation, thrice repeated. thereby using nine basic or biocking facets.
Thus, by the prior method based upon making four blocking cuts or cross work and the Octagon work, only four main phases of the crystallographic formation of the; diamond have been taken into account, whereas in the triangulation system, the crystallographie construction of the diamod has been disregarded in an eiort to give particular lcontour 'to a number of facets in the pavilion and crown, respectively.
The former system. operating on the basis of the four main blocking cuts, places a limitation upon the faceting operation; the triangulation system, being concerned with peculiar shapes oi' facetsI requires unusual skill, in view of the unsymmetrical characteristics of the basic facets and their relation to the crystallographic structure of the diamond. The triangulation system, therefore, requires unusual skill and patience of the so-called worker who performs the blocking work and of the brillianteerer. The judgment of these workers must be precise, with constant observation as to "the effect of their work, if at all feasible. The triangulation system, therefore, does not lend itself readily to a commercial production of a brillianteered diamond.
I have discovered that symmetry of division of the blocking cuts, tending towards an augmenting of the beauty of the diamond and an increased number of facets, `may be secured by departing both from the Octagon blocking system and the tiangulation biocking system. by a division of the basic blocking facets both for the crown and the pavilion, using either twelve or sixteen basic or blocking facets. which may thereafter be divided into multiples of twelve or sixteen, thus securing simpler. even though increased brillianteering facets. As a consequence.
the brilliance of the diamonds may be increased and the briliianteering operation proceed with a higher degree of unifolmity to the touch of the brillianteerer. As a consequence, also, the beauty of the brilliant type of diamond is enhanced and the speed of production increased out of proportion to the increased number of facets.
Accordingly, it is an Object of my invention to provide a method for briilianteering diamonds to provide a diamond of the brilliant type, in which both the crown and the pavilion or base have their facets formed on the basis of symmetrically arranged basic or blocking facets, which are sy'mmetrical with the crystallographic axes in excess of eight, thus departing from the number of primary blocking euts formed on the ordinary type heretofore commercially produced in forming the briiiiant type of diamond, whereby simplicity of blocking and briliianteering is made available.
It is also contemplated by my invention to proyide a cut or faceted diamond of enhanced beauty, as to contour and brilliance, heretofore not acquired.
To attain these objects and such further objects as may appear herein or be hereinafter pointed out,l I make reference to the accompanying drawings. forming a part hereof. in which- Figure IA discloses diagramm'aticaily. in perspective, the octahedron crystal, showing generally the crystallographic axes and grain direction of the diamond crystal; also showing superimposed thereon the basic facets in relation to the crystaiiographic axes, in accordance with one embodiment of my invention;
Figure 1 is a top plan view of a diamond showing the basic facets. in accordance with one embodiment of my invention;
Figure 2 is a bottom view of the diamond shown in Figure l, in which the basic or blocking facets for the crown are shown;
Figure ZA is a side eievation view of Figure 1;
Figure 3 is a top plan view of adiamond cut from Figure 1, with the brillianteering facets;
Figure 4 is a bottom view showing the completedbrillianteering fa'cets on the pavilion;
Figure 5 is a side eleva'tional view of the diamond, showing the complete crownland pavilion facets;
Figure 6 is a plan view of a diamond cut in accordance with my invention, to embody a socalled Swiss cut;
Figure 'l is a bottom view of the diamond shown in Figure 6, to display the pavilion facets;
Figure 8 is a side elevational view of the diamond in accordance with my invention as shown in Figures 6 and 7;
Figure 9 is a side elevational view of a diamond cut in accordance with another embodiment of my invention;
Figure 10 is a side elevational view of a diamond in accordance with a still further embodiment of my invention;
Figure ll is a top view oi' another elnbodiment of my invention, viewed from the direction of the table of the diamond;
Figure 12 is a view of the dialnond in accordance with Figure 11, viewed from the pavilion of the diamond;
Figure 13 is a side elevational view of the diamond shown in Figures 11 and 12;
Figures 14, 15 and 16, are, respectively, the table, pavilion and side views of a diamond formed with the blocking cuts by conventional methods.
Making reference to the drawings, in Figure 1A`I have diagrammatically shown the natural octahedral crystal from which the upper i'acet T and the lower facet C are formed, to provide the table and cuiet. respectively. These cuts are shown in dotted line, superimposed upon an iliustration of a form the natural octahedral crystal. The difl'erence in hardness in the diamond is frequently explained by the fact that the grain runs in difl'erent directions. In the illustrated crystal the faces h are Parallel to two crystallographic axes which are shaded to indicate the optimum poiishing directions by the arrow heads. Faces d, indicated by the direction of the arrow, are also paraliel to a crystaliographic axis. Faces O are inclined to three crystaliographic axes.
In accordance with my invention, I provide in one embodiment, twelve basic or blocking cuts, more particuiarly shown in Figure 1, for the bezel portion of the diarnond, providing the table 20, the sides 2! and the blocking or basic facets 22. These basic or blocking facets 22, while symmetricai about the axis pel'pendicular to the table 20, are, in the main, non-coincident or angularly disposed to the three main crystallographic axes of the crystal shown in Figure iA, with reference 'to which the faces h, d and O have been described.
The pavilion portion 21 in this embodlment is provided with twelve basic or blocking facets, numbered 28, and with a culet 28a-see Figures 2A and 5, thus outlining the basic or blocking facets shown in Figures 1, 2 and ZA, which includes a relativeiy thick girdle forming portion 29. From a comparison of Figure 2A and this same figure superimposed in dotted lines in Figure IA, it willv be seen that the twelve basic or biocking facets 22 and 28 for the bezel and paviiion, respectively, are constituted by the portions of four cross-worked blocking facets, with two blocking facets intermediate between two of each of the adjacent cross-worked biocking facets. The right angularly directed planar intersecting axes are shown in Figure iA to run midway between the remnants of the four crossworked blocking facets with each of the two intermediate blocking facets therebetween, giving a total of twelve basic facets 22 in the bezel portion and twelve basic facets 28 in the pavilion portion, each subtending an angle of 30. Thereafter, the brillianteering facets are applied.
For the bezel portion, a series of triangular facets 23 are formed by brillianteering to take down a portion of the rib 24, and the corner 25 to form a new table terminating side 26 extending halfway into each of the sides 2! previously described. Repeating these facets twelve times will form a. table of twelve sides, or outline a dodecagon, each side of which table is defined by an edge 26. Thereafter, facets 21a are formed to each side of' the rib line 24 below the apex 28b adjacent the bruted girdle forming portion 29, to form a girdle 29a of half normal thickness at this stage and ieaving twelve polygonal facets 24a. This provides the bezel portion with forty eight brillianteering facets, exclusive of the table.
The pavilion facets are formed by superimposing two iacets 32, terminating adjacent the girdle to complete the girdle 29a approximately half the original thickness of the bruted girdle 29. These facets 32 are formed to each side of every rib forming portion 3|,-cutting a little further into the girdle, leaving the polygonal diamond shaped facet 30 and resulting in twenty four facets 32, which termnate adjacent the girdle, when repeated about each pavilion rib .'H, thus providing a total of thirty six pavilion facets, exclusive' of the culet.
The eompleted diamond, as shown in Figure 5,
ltherefore has formed thereon forty eight bezel eration in proportion to the number of facets.
due to the angular Vobli'riueness of faceting action to the normal grain surface of the diamond. The skilled brillianteerer experiences a new touch, in accordance with my method, speeding up the production, even though the number oi iacets is disproportionately increased.
Apparent brilliancy is increased and beauty of contour' is enhanced over the old brillianteering methods known to me. especially in regard to polygonal shaped facets formed on the bezel and Pavilion. Symmetry o! formation o! thel brillianteering i'acets assures uniformity of operation as each series of brillianteering facets is imposed upon the blocked or basic facets.
The departure from prior brillianteering for the old brilliant type of diamond will be appreciated by reference to Figures 14, 15 and 16. where the conventional Octagon work, after cross work, is illustrated. and precedlng the conventional brillianteerlng which has heretoi'ore resulted in flfty six brillianteering facets-that is, in forming thlrty two facets in the bezel forming portion and twenty four facets in the pavilion forming portion.
Under the Octagon working system, there is greater llkellhood oi' coincidence in polishing in parailelism with the grain of the natural crystal. requiring conslderable shiiting of the diamond in order to dispose the diamond with its grain perpendicular to the line of rotation of the skeif. By my method. which relics upon a displacement of the plane of the blocking of basic facets 22 and 28 of the bezel and pavilion, respectively,` to a fraction of the angles between the normal crystallographic axes of the diamond, increased blocking and brillianteering speed is achieved, with less likelihood of encountering a parallelism of the grain with the line of rotation of the skeif,
In Figures 6 to 8 another form of the invention has been disclosed in which the diamond is of Swiss cut, but constructed in accordance with this invention. Figures 6 and '7 show basic or blocking cuts taken. In this i'lgure the diamond already has the dodecagon shaped table 32a. This table is formed with twelve sldes 33 which have been formed by taking down the rib as 25 after blocking, as in Figure 1 according to the dodacagon blocking. These twelve sides 33 outline substantially triangular facets 34 which extend compietely with their apices adjacent the girdle 35 of the diamond. In between the Swiss cut facets il there are the blocking or main polished facets IB. Reference numerals 31 (see Figure 6) illustrate the completed faceted bezei of the diamond.
The diamond also is provided with a faceted base or pavilion 38 which consists of twelve radlating polygonal blocking or main facets 39 generally diamond shaped and twenty four smaller outer facets lil generally triangular adjacent the girdl' 35 as provided by taking down a portion oi the rib line Sl (see Figure 2A) of the blocked diamond.
In Figure 9 a modined form of diamond is disclosed which is made by a combination of the steps used in making the diamond shown in Figi ures and 8. The faceted bezel or crown of the diamond shown in Figure 5 is provided with the facets thereof in combination with the method of forming the faceted pavillon 38 of the diamond shown in Figure 8. The various faceted portions of the crown and of the pavilion have been identiiled by like reference numerals.
In Figure still another modified form of diamond has been disclosed in which another combination is shown. In this diamond. the faceted crown S1 of the diamond shown in Figure 8 has been used in combination with the faceted pavilion 'I'I disclosed in Figure 2A. Like iaceted surfaces have been identifled by like reference numerals.
In Figure-s ll to 13, still another design of diamond is shown which we may call a sestodecagon i'or a sixteen blocking cut diamond. This diamont has a table ll i'ormed with sixteen Straight sides ll. The diamond hasa faceted bezel or crown ll which is formed from slxteen triangular inner facets lil adjacent the table ll. sixteen diamond shaped blocking or main facets IB, and thirty two triangular outer facets Adjacent the girdle il a faceted pavillon 62 is provided and is formed with sixteen diamond shaped radiating blocking or main facets B3 and thirty two smaller outer triang'ular faceted portions 54 adjacent the girdle ii As distinguished from the embodiment described in connection with the dodecagon blocking system, the sextodecagon blocking system derives the sixteen bloclring cuts from the remnants of the (our cross-worked blocking facets with three blocking facets intermediate two of each of the adjacent cross-worked blocking facets.
In Figures 14 to 16, the standard Octagon blocking diamond procedure as heretofore practiced ls shown, so that the new design may be easily understood and recognized. This old procedure is shown as based upon the usual table 55 with eight Straight sides 56 defining eight main fiat polished facets 51, forrning the Octagon work for the blocking facets. It is provided with the usual girdle 58 and the blocked Pavilion 59 having eight basic or blocking facets 68.
In general under iny procedure in accordance with the embodiments illustrated. the basic or blocking i'acets subtend an angle less than 22.5 and no more than 30 as compared with a subtended angle'of by conventional procedure. While by my invention syrnmetry of the basic or blocklng facets is secured, the shifting of the diamond to present the most efi'ective cross grain of the diamond perpendlcular to the line of rotation of the skeif is minimized.
Thus, also. by my invention, the main facets in the bezel or crown, such as the facets 22 in the embodiment Illustrated in Figures 1 to 5. lying between the table and the girdle. and the main pavilion facets lying between the culet and girdle, have their widest dimensions subtend an angle no greater than 30. Thus, also, in the embodiment Illustrated in Figures 12 and 13, the central or main facets 49 of the bezei H lying between the table and the girdle Si, and the main facets 53 lying between the culet and the girdle likewise subtend an angle, at their greatest dimension, no greater than 22.5".
In the embodiment illustrated in Figures 6 and '7, the main facets 36 and 38. respectively, on the V bezel and pavilion. at their widest portion subtend an angle no greater than 30.
Accordingly. in accordance with my invention, the principal facets, as Well as' the facets adjacent the girdle and table, each subtend an angle no more than 30l and. in instances, no more than 22.5, providing a relatlonship of the surfaces faceted to the grain of the gem which simplifles the rate of brillianteering.
The basic or blocking facets likewise are formed to subtend an angle less than 30 and, in instances, 22.5, to carry out the same relationship of grain lines to the line of rotation of the skeif. greatly simplifying the blccking as well as the brillianteering operation.
The symmetry of the formation of the blockin facets or the brillianteering operation provides uniformity of touch to the brillianteer. increasing the speed of production. Coordlnately, also. in accordance with some of the embodiments illustrated. the polygonal facets appearing on the crown or bezel and on the pavilion are elongate and at no timeflsubtend an angle greater than 40 A iacets where the facets are preferably iormed to subtend an angle of 30, though 22.5 is contemplated for a diamond based uponsixteen blocking or basic cuts. Symmetry of 4facets, to form an V`even number, is preferred and, accordingly. the
subtended angle may be less than 22.5 within these prescriptions as to symmetry of location.
For convenient of reference, the brilliant-cut type diamond in accordance with one embodiment of my invention, as described and. disclosed, will be reierred to as to dodecagon blocking system, which is applicable to the bezel portion, the pavilion portion or to both of these portions. In another embodiment o! my invention, as descrlbed and disclosed, the brilliant-cut type diamond will be rei'erred to as the sextodecagon blocking system, which is likewise applicable to the bezel portion, the pavilion portion ,or to both of these portions.
It is to be understood, however, that I contemplate within the spirit of my invention to combine in one diamond, on either the bezel portion or the pavilion portion, faceted portions on the basis o! the dodecagon blocking system or the sextodecagon blocking system alternatively, comblned with the Octagon blocking system on the remaining portion. Thus, the bezel portion may be made in accordance with my invention under the dodecagon blocking system or the sextodecagon blocking system and the pavilion portion oi such a type diamond may be made under the ootason blocking system. Conversely, the bezel portion may be made under the Octagon blocking system' and the pavilion portion made under the dodecagon or sextodecagon blocking system. The combination may be foundvexpedient due to a condition oi' the bruted stock and the grain condition of the diamond in the bruted stock employed.
By the l'dodecagon blocking system" and the sextodecagon blocking system," l'. mean to include the formation o! the basic 'blocking cuts of tour cross-worked blocking cuts with two and three intermediate blocking cuts respectively between two o! each oi' adjacent cross-worked blocking cuts, providing, respectively, twelve and Six-- teen blocking cui's which are each of substantially the same magnitude.
It is understood, however, that while I have provided an explanatlon or theory of operation for my invention. predicated upon experience in practicing the same, which may serve as a guide to secure optimum results. I do not intend toV be limited thereby, and further scientlflc study or those skilled in the art may provide other explanations for the beneflcial results secured by my invention.
In the specincation and claims where I refer to "brlll'anteering," I mean to include thereby the polishing operation for dlamonds i'or the i'ormation of a triangular iacet by polishing the intersectine corners of two blocking iacets and the table o r girdle. as distinguished from a blocking facet which extends the full length between th gil'dle to either the table or culet.
Having thus descrlbed my invention and illustrated its use, what I elaim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is: A l
1. In the method o! iorming diamonds into brilliants i'rom the bruted stock, the steps which include iorming on at least one of the bezel and volyaonal, wi
crown portlons thereof blocking cuts directed by cross-working to provide four cross-worked blocking faoets with at least two intermediate blocklng tacets between two oi' each of the adjacent crossworked blocking facets each of which subtend an angle less than 40, extending between at least the table and culet axially and the'girdle peripherally, and imposing brlllianteering facets on the block .ing cuts thus formed.
2. `In the method of forming diamonds into brilliants from the bruted stock, the steps which include torming the table and culet, providing symmetrically directed biocking facets by crossworking with at least two intermediate blocking iacets between two of each of the adjacent crossworked blocking facets and extending in the crown and pavllion axially'from the table and culet, respectively, to the girdle portion, and circumi'erentially extended symmetrically to subtend an angle in each blocking facetl less than 40.
3. In the method oi forming diamonds into brilliants trom the bruted stock, the steps which include i'orming the table and culet and blocking i'acets on the crown and pavilion portions, respectively, by cross-working with no less than two and no more than three Intermediate blocking facets between two of each of the adjacent cross-worked blocking iacets and extending axially from the table and culet, respectively, to the girdle portion perpherally, each blocking facet being substantially equal and subtending an angle oi' the magnitude no greater than 30 and no smaller than 22.5 to provide no less than twelve and no more than sixteen blocking facets on the crown and pavilion, respectively, leaving a girdle portion.
4. In the -method of i'crming diamonds into brilliants from the bruted stock, the steps which include forming the table and culet and blocking i'acets on the crown and pavilion portions. respectively, by cross-working with no less than two and no more than three intermediate blocking facets between two of each o! the adjacent crossworked blocking facets and extending axially from the table and culet, respectively, to the girdle portion perlpherally, each. blocking facet being substantially equal and subtending an angle o! the magnltude no greater than 30" and no smller than 22.5 to provide no less than twelve an nomore than sixteen blocking facets on the crown and pavilion, respectively, leaving a girdle portionf; and then brillianteering the ridges cut into the table, culet and girdle to provide brilli'anteered i'acets o! polysonai contour, and substantially triangular facets intermediately spaced between the polygonal tacets adjacent the girdle. including the tormation oi substantially triangulari'acets adjacent the table.
5. In the method'of tormlng diamonds into brilliants iromthe bruted stock, the steps which include providing the bruted stock with syminetrically arranged blocking facets oi' eqiial magnitude on the crown and pavilion, respectively, of an even: number in excess of eight by crossworking. with at least two lntermediate blocking 'i'acets between two of each oi' the' adjacent crossworked blocking iacets, and brillianteering the ridaes so tormed to provide brillianteered intermediate tacets; the intermediate tacets extendingl between'the table and the girdle in the bezel portion and i'rom the culet to the girdle in the pavilion portion, the facets extending between the table and the irdle on the bezel portion beingV tho brillianteered intermediate facets adjacent the table and girdle being substantially triangular.
6. In the method of forming diamonds into briiliants from the bruted stock in accordance with claim wherein the blocking facets are twelve in number on each of the bezel and pavilion portions and with twelve substantially triangular intermediate brillianteered facets adjacent the table and twenty four intermediate, substantialiy triangular facets adjacent the girdle on the bezel portion, there being formed twenty four substantially triangular intermediate facets on the pavilion portion adjacent the girdle.
7. In the method of forming diamonds into brilliants from the bruted stock in accordance with claim 5 wherein the blocking facets are sixteen in number on each of the bezel and pavilion portions and with sixteen substantially triangular intermediate brillianteered facets adjacent the table and thirty two interrnediate, substantially triangula facets adjacent the girdle on the bezel portion, there being formed thirty two substantially trianguiar intermediate facets on the pavilion portion adjacent the girdle.
8. A brilliant-cut type diamond having a table and eulet including a faceted bezel and pavilion to each side of the girdle portion, symmetrically disposed main facets on said bezel and pavilion extending to the table and cuiet, outlining symmetrically on said table the corners of at least a twelve straight sided polygon after brillianteering and including between each main facet, brillianteered facets terminating adjacent the girdle.
9. A brilliant-cut type diamond having a table portion, a culet portion and a girdie portion defining the bezel and paviiion of the diamond. having symmetrically disposed main bezel and pavilion facets extended to each side of the girdle axially toward the table and eulet, respectively, of the order of an even number of twelve or greater, with intermediate briilianteered facets adjacent the girdie in the bezel and pavilion portion, the main facets outlining the oorners of a polygon of at least twelve sides on the table.
10. A brilliant-eut type diamond including a table, a eulet disposed to either side of a zil-dle defining a bezel portion and pavilion portion. at least twelve symmetricaliy disposed main facets extending in the bezel and pavilion portion from the table and culet. respectively. to the girdie, Intermediate brillianteered i'acets adjacent the table and intermediate brillianteered facetsbetween each of the main facets adjacent the girdle in the bezel and paviiion portions.
11. A brilliant-cut type diamond including a faceted bezel portion and a pavilion portion to each side ot the girdle portion, and a' table on said bezel portion, at least one of said bezel'and pavilion portions having symmetrically disposed thereon and extending on said bezel and paviiion portions, symmetricaliy disposed main facets based upon the dodecagon blocking system and including to each side of the main facets based upon the dodecagon blocking system, briilianteered facets terminating adjacent the girdle.
12. A brilliant-cut type diamond including a faceted bezel portion and a pavilion portion to each side of the girdle portion and a table on said bezel portion. at least one of said bezel and pavilion portions having symmetrically disposed thereon and extending on said bezel and pavilion portions, symmetrically disposed main facets facets based upon the sextodeeagon blocking system and including to each side of the main facets based upon the sextodecagon blocking system. briliianteered facets terminating 'adjacent the girdle.
13. A brilliant-cut' type diamond-including a table, a eulet disposed to either side of a girdle deflning a bezel portion and a pavilion portion, at least one of said portions having basic facets founded upon the dodecagon blocking system.
14. A bl'illiant-cut type diamond including a table, a culet disposed to either side oi' a girdle defining a bezel portion and a pavilion portion. at least one of said portions having basic facets founded upon the sextodecagon blocking system.
MAX SUDEROV.
CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION.
Patent Na. 2,36%051.
November 28, 19ml.
MAX SUDERUV.
It is her-aby certified that error appears in the printed specification of the above numbered patent requiring correction as follows: Page 5, first column, line 22, for "blocking of" read --blocking or--;
line 714., for diamont" read --diamond--; page h, first column, line 11, for "convenient" read --oo'nvenience--; page 5,
second column,
11nel29, claim 12, strike' out "facets"; and that the said Lottez's Patent should be read with this correction therein that the same ma'y conform to the record of the case i'n the Patent Office signed and aaled this zlu-.h day of April, A. D. 1915.
(Seal) Leslie Frazer Acting Commissioner of Patents.
facets adjacent the table and girdle being substantially triangular.
6. In the method of forming diamonds into briiliants from the bruted stock in accordance with claim wherein the blocking facets are twelve in number on each of the bezel and pavilion portions and with twelve substantially triangular intermediate brillianteered facets adjacent the table and twenty four intermediate, substantialiy triangular facets adjacent the girdle on the bezel portion, there being formed twenty four substantially triangular intermediate facets on the pavilion portion adjacent the girdle.
7. In the method of forming diamonds into brilliants from the bruted stock in accordance with claim 5 wherein the blocking facets are sixteen in number on each of the bezel and pavilion portions and with sixteen substantially triangular intermediate brillianteered facets adjacent the table and thirty two interrnediate, substantially triangula facets adjacent the girdle on the bezel portion, there being formed thirty two substantially trianguiar intermediate facets on the pavilion portion adjacent the girdle.
8. A brilliant-cut type diamond having a table and eulet including a faceted bezel and pavilion to each side of the girdle portion, symmetrically disposed main facets on said bezel and pavilion extending to the table and cuiet, outlining symmetrically on said table the corners of at least a twelve straight sided polygon after brillianteering and including between each main facet, brillianteered facets terminating adjacent the girdle.
9. A brilliant-cut type diamond having a table portion, a culet portion and a girdie portion defining the bezel and paviiion of the diamond. having symmetrically disposed main bezel and pavilion facets extended to each side of the girdle axially toward the table and eulet, respectively, of the order of an even number of twelve or greater, with intermediate briilianteered facets adjacent the girdie in the bezel and pavilion portion, the main facets outlining the oorners of a polygon of at least twelve sides on the table.
10. A brilliant-eut type diamond including a table, a eulet disposed to either side of a zil-dle defining a bezel portion and pavilion portion. at least twelve symmetricaliy disposed main facets extending in the bezel and pavilion portion from the table and culet. respectively. to the girdie, Intermediate brillianteered i'acets adjacent the table and intermediate brillianteered facetsbetween each of the main facets adjacent the girdle in the bezel and paviiion portions.
11. A brilliant-cut type diamond including a faceted bezel portion and a pavilion portion to each side ot the girdle portion, and a' table on said bezel portion, at least one of said bezel'and pavilion portions having symmetrically disposed thereon and extending on said bezel and paviiion portions, symmetricaliy disposed main facets based upon the dodecagon blocking system and including to each side of the main facets based upon the dodecagon blocking system, briilianteered facets terminating adjacent the girdle.
12. A brilliant-cut type diamond including a faceted bezel portion and a pavilion portion to each side of the girdle portion and a table on said bezel portion. at least one of said bezel and pavilion portions having symmetrically disposed thereon and extending on said bezel and pavilion portions, symmetrically disposed main facets facets based upon the sextodeeagon blocking system and including to each side of the main facets based upon the sextodecagon blocking system. briliianteered facets terminating 'adjacent the girdle.
13. A brilliant-cut' type diamond-including a table, a eulet disposed to either side of a girdle deflning a bezel portion and a pavilion portion, at least one of said portions having basic facets founded upon the dodecagon blocking system.
14. A bl'illiant-cut type diamond including a table, a culet disposed to either side oi' a girdle defining a bezel portion and a pavilion portion. at least one of said portions having basic facets founded upon the sextodecagon blocking system.
MAX SUDEROV.
CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION.
Patent Na. 2,36%051.
November 28, 19ml.
MAX SUDERUV.
It is her-aby certified that error appears in the printed specification of the above numbered patent requiring correction as follows: Page 5, first column, line 22, for "blocking of" read --blocking or--;
line 714., for diamont" read --diamond--; page h, first column, line 11, for "convenient" read --oo'nvenience--; page 5,
second column,
11nel29, claim 12, strike' out "facets"; and that the said Lottez's Patent should be read with this correction therein that the same ma'y conform to the record of the case i'n the Patent Office signed and aaled this zlu-.h day of April, A. D. 1915.
(Seal) Leslie Frazer Acting Commissioner of Patents.
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US3585764A (en) * 1969-06-10 1971-06-22 James Huisman Diamond cutting method
USD286387S (en) 1984-03-21 1986-10-28 Mitsugi Ishida Diamond
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US5072549A (en) * 1986-09-22 1991-12-17 Harold Johnston Method of cutting gemstones and product
US5713219A (en) * 1996-01-18 1998-02-03 Ambar Diamonds, Inc. Invisible setting for precious stones for jewelry
US5761929A (en) * 1996-09-12 1998-06-09 M. Fabrikant & Sons, Ltd. Facet cut structure for colored stones to enhance brilliance
USD425816S (en) * 1997-04-04 2000-05-30 Preciosa, A.S. Cut stone
USD435477S (en) 1997-04-04 2000-12-26 Preciosa A.S. Cut stone
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US6698239B2 (en) 2001-02-23 2004-03-02 Samuel Aaron, Inc. Brilliant cut diamond
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US20110000259A1 (en) * 2007-12-14 2011-01-06 Strnad Iii Leonard J Gemstone and method for cutting the same
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US3585764A (en) * 1969-06-10 1971-06-22 James Huisman Diamond cutting method
USD286387S (en) 1984-03-21 1986-10-28 Mitsugi Ishida Diamond
US5072549A (en) * 1986-09-22 1991-12-17 Harold Johnston Method of cutting gemstones and product
WO1991015132A1 (en) * 1990-04-10 1991-10-17 D. Swarovski & Co. Gemstone suitable for use in the production of mounted-gem chains
US5713219A (en) * 1996-01-18 1998-02-03 Ambar Diamonds, Inc. Invisible setting for precious stones for jewelry
US5761929A (en) * 1996-09-12 1998-06-09 M. Fabrikant & Sons, Ltd. Facet cut structure for colored stones to enhance brilliance
USD434341S (en) * 1997-04-04 2000-11-28 Preciosa, A.S. Cut stone
USD428355S (en) * 1997-04-04 2000-07-18 Preciosa, A.S. Cut stone
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