US2269321A - Twill weave fabric - Google Patents

Description

Jan. 6, 1 942. s. H. SCHEUER 2,269,321

TwILL wEAvE FABRIC l Filed Oct. 8, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 A ORNEY5.

Patented Jan. 6, 1942 UNITED STATES PAT ENT 0 EFILCE rWrLL-WEAVE men-1c v Sidney-R1 Scheuer, 'NewI YorkrxN. Application october` s, 1941,'*scnc1No1414,043 :.2 claims. y 01; 139-4417) o .My ,present invention;relates generallyv to the weaving art, andrhas particular reference toa Anew type of ornamentalwoven fabric.

A general objectof theinvention is to provide .a fabric having avuniquev type of ornamentation consisting of a series of'nely-spa-ced wavy or sinuous lines extending diagonally across the fabric,l in combination with a'series of parallel 1ongitudinal .bands or shadow stripes. .By the term shadow stripes yI referto bandsbetween `whichthere are no clean-cut lines of demarcation, eachband shadinggradually into the bands oneach side of it.

A more specific object of the invention is .to bring about this novel effect as an inherent characteristic of the woven fabric, independent of any extraneous. surfaceprinting or other ornamentation that may subsequently be applied to the fabric,

Shadow stripes are not new inthe art but v unusual effects are produced. when the goods are finished.

By the term swellable yarn I intend to refer to any type of yarn which has the characteristic of expanding or swelling when'it is wetted, e. g., during the usual finishing procedure. Among the yarns which meet this requirement are most of lthe continuousrlament synthetic yarns, such as rayon,cuprammonium;nitrocellulose, acetate, viscose and-similar yarns. On theotherhand, cotton-.and vother spun yarns'are unsuitable for the present' purpose because the twist which'they necessarily possess (which, for example, in the case `oi. spun rayon isjusually between twelve and twenty-four turns per inch depending upon the size of the yarn) prevents the desired ultimate swelling of the yarn from taking place when the goods are nished. Spun yarns,.there fore, whether composed of synthetic'bers .or not, are not intended `to be includ-ed in thev term swellable'yarnl as .that term is used herein.

One ofthe features of the present invention lies in the fact that the weft. threads have a the closely-woven f bands. creation'of unusual obliquetwill lineswhi'ch ex .tendin sinuous .fabric.

y, uniform density, while4 the, warp threads A.areispe- -.cially reeded lto adeline'V inl the., fabric certain; predetermined spaced parallel ibands V,ofv relatively `closely-woven texture,v the intermediate bands U.beingf relatively loosely-woven texture, the interengagement between vthe weft ,and warp threads conformingto the same selectedtwill weave .throughout the traverse of the weft threads .across saidbands. When the fabric, thus woven,

is subjected to' the .usual nishing procedure,.the threads in the loosely-Woven bands and atthe margins of, the closely-woven bands ,become swollen toa `greateruextent. than the.threads in This'results in the fashion diagonally acrossV "the Furthermore, because of. rhcxfact that-the threads. in' the loosely-iwovenibands are .enabled to .swe111to a maximum degree, Whilethe'threads at the :margins of the closelyewoven bands un- Adergoa swelling-only toan intermediate degree, :there `is' :no clean-cut line. of demarcation in the finished" fabric between each two adjacent bands.

f Asl a result,.,each ,band of the inished. fabric shades gradually into. the adjacent ,bands on each sidevof it thus producinga .shadow stripe effect.

This' shadow stripe, coupled with the wavy Aobliquetwill lines,"produces an ,unexpectedly attractive Aornamentation which makes the t fabric usefulj and desirable* for a, large variety of purposes. The. unique effect that is ,produced is ythe combined result of I'the type of' yarn Ywhich is used, the manner `in which 'thewarp threads are reeded in'jthe loonrthe .even density ofthe weft threads, and vthe use of only asingleselected most cases preferred, .orf any other selected twill 'cwi-11' weave across the width ofythc fabric.

'Thetwill weavev that is used may bejthe. ordinary,,so-calledthree-leaf weave, which is in produ-ced ,in the finished fabric.

Similarly, the warp threads'may-be reeded'in a variety of different ways dependingA upon the particular pattern that is-desired vZliorexarnple, '18` ends maylbe arranged^ in 6 dents for 3 ends inl a:,dent)alternating'wi'th 12 ends arranged in 6 dents '.(OrL121endS-insa dent) ,thereby :creating `.a shadow Astripee effectl of "relatively simple i'characterfin which ',the'xstripesaor bands fare; all ofapproximately thefsamerwidth.

Other possible patterns, offered here merely by way of example, could be produced as follows: Pattern 2.-The warp threads are reeded 12 ends in 4 dents (3 ends in a dent), alternating with 8 ends in 4 dents (2 ends in a dent).

Pattern 3.-The warp threads are reeded: 12 ends in 4 dents, (3 ends in a dent); 8 ends in 4 dents, (2 ends in a dent) 12 ends in 4 dents, (3 ends in a dent) 8 ends in 4 dents, (2 ends in a dent); 30 ends in 10 dents, (3 ends in a dent); 20 ends in 10 dents, (2 ends in a dent), and this sequence of reeding is then repeated across the width of the fabric.

I achieve the foregoing objects, and such other objects as may hereinafter appear or be pointed out, in the manner illustratively exemplified in the accompanying drawings in which:

Figure 1 is a diagrammatic View showing one way of producing a fabric of the present character;

Figure 2 is a cross-sectional View taken substantially along the line 2-2 of Figure 1;

Figure 3 is an exaggerated plan view of the fabric produced as indicated in Figures 1 and 2 prior to any finishing procedure;

Figure 4 is a View similar to Figure 3, showing the appearance of the fabric after the finishing procedure; and

Figure 5 is a photographic plan view of a piece of fabric constructed in accordance with the present invention, showing a slightly different pattern from the one that is shown in Figures 1-3.

At I0 I have diagrammatically illustrated the heddles through which the warp threads are threaded as they are drawn from a single wrapbeam at the rear of the loom (not shown). At II I have indicated the reed, and in Figure 1 twenty-two complete dents are illustrated. It will be understood that Figure 1 is of an exaggerated and enlarged nature, and that in actual practice the loom forming the present fabric may use a reed having as'many asforty dents per inch, or more. Obviously, the longitudinal distance between the heddles I!) and the reed II of Figure 1 is greatly foreshortened, as are the other longitudinal relationships illustrated, this gure being intended to be purely diagrammatic.

In the particular pattern illustrated in Figures 1, 2 and 3, the warp threads are alternately reeded twelve Yends in six dents, and eighteen ends in six dents. More particularly, `it will be observed that the twelve threads between those designated I2 and I3 are passed through six dents, two threads to a dent, while the next adjacent eighteen threads, lyingA between those designated I4 and I5, are also passedV through six dents, three threads being reeded through each dent. The latter group of warp threads produces, in the finished fabric, a band of relatively closely-woven texture. The rgroup of .warp threads between those designated I2 and I3 produces, in the finished fabric, an adjacent band of relatively loosely-woven texture. These two bands are illustrative of the `entire series of adjacent parallel bands,lalternately of relatively closely-woven texture and of relatively looselywoven texture.

Notwithstanding the formation of these various groups of warp threads, it will be understood that the threads are worked individually by the harness in the usual manner.

The reference numeral I6 is applied to the filler threads which, as will be understood by those skilled in the art, are successivelyshot across the loom by means of the shuttle and are then beaten down by reciprocal movements of the reed II.

In Figures l, 2 and 3 I have chosen to illustrate the employment of a three-leaf twill weave, i. e., each filler thread passes under two warp threads, then over one warp thread, then again under two and over one, etc. However, it is only every third filler thread that passes under and over exactly the same warp threads, the interengagement of the intermediate filler threads being successively shifted laterally in accordance with well-known procedure. Each filler thread, however, conforms to the same selected twill weave throughout the entire traverse of the ller thread across the bands of compactedand less-compacted warp threads.

The relationship of the weft and warp threads, after the actual weaving procedure but before any nishing procedure, is illustrated in an exaggerated manner in Figure 3. It will be observed that the band I'I is of relatively looselywoven texture, while the band I8 is of relatively closely-woven texture, this being the result of the special reeding of the Warp threads. Because of the twill weave that is employed, a series of oblique twill lines are discernible in each of these bands, but the Obliquity of these twill lines is greater in the denser band I8 than in the looser band I1.

The fabric is ultimately subjected tothe usual finishing treatment during which time sizing and impurities are boiled olf, and at the Sametime such dyeing as may be desired 'is effected. Both the warp and weft threads having been purposely composed of swellable yarn, these threads proceed to swell during the wetting to which they are subjected.` The threads in the loosely-woven bands, such as the band I'I, proceed to swell to a maximum degree, thereby closing all interstices 4and presenting an ultimate appearance as indicated in Figure 4. Both the warp threads and the ller threads now present wider surfaces to View. Also, the diagonal twill lines become wider and more pronounced.

The threads in the relatively closely-woven bands, however, are incapable of swelling or eX- panding to any substantial degree, as a result of which the twill lines remain relatively narrow, and the light-reecting,properties of these bands are different from those of the other bands.

At the `margins of the closely-woven bands, the threads expand or swell to an intermediate degree. This in indicated by the threads designated I9 in Figure 4. 'Ihese threads cannot swell to the maximum degree because they are partially held in relativelyrm interwoven relationship. Nevertheless, their expansion is not completely impeded since there is 'some room for them to expand in the direction of the looserwoven bands on each side. 'Ihe result of this partial swelling is twofold. yIn thel first place, it destroys any clean-cut line of demarcation between the closely-woven band I8 and the relatively loosely-woven band I 'I. In. the second place, the interaction between the threads in the marginal regions I9 brings about a gradual curvilinear merger between the oblique twill lines in the band I'I and the steeperI oblique twill lines in the band I8.

These same effects are produced at the opposite side of the band I8, 'i. e'., between'the band I8 and the next adjacent loosely-woven band' 20. Not onlyvis there a destruction of any clean-cut 1. A'nished ornamental woven fabric in which f line ofdelnarcation between the bands I8 and 20, but there is created a curvilinear juncture between the oblique twill lines of the band I8 and the less-oblique twill lines of the band 20.

The ultimate result is unique and unusually ornamental. Not only is a shadow stripe effect produced, running lengthwise of the fabric, but this striped ornamentation is coupled with a series of wavy oblique twill lines extending in sinuous fashion diagonally across the fabric.

I have illustrated in Figure a piece of nished fabric embodying these novel features, the alternate bands of relatively closely-woven texture 2| contrasting in a pleasing manner with the intermediate bands 22 of relatively looselywoven texture. The unique sinuous or wavy twill lines, extending diagonally across the fabric, are clearly discernible in this figure. The particular pattern shown in Figure 5 is the one hereinbefore described as Pattern 3.

Since the fabric may be produced on a simple loom, using a single weave throughout and employing a single type of yarn, it can be manufactured at relatively small expense. It is eminently suitable for mens wear linings, for womens wearing apparel, for tie materials and scarfs, and for decorative fabrics generally. As a printing medium, the fabric forms an interesting background, and because of the inherent ornamental character of the background, printed effects are vastly enhanced.

In general, it 'will be understood that those skilled in the art may make changes inthe details herein described and illustrated without departing from the spirit and scope of' the invention as expressed in the appended claims. It is, therefore, intended that these detail-s be interpreted as illustrative, and not in a limiting sense.

Having thus described my invention and illustrated its use, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

the warp and weftv threads are composed of swellable continuous-filament yarn having little or no twist, the weft threads having a uniform spacing throughout the fabric but the warp threads being reeded to define in the fabric predetermined spaced paralle] bands of relatively closely woven texture and intermediate bands of relatively loosely woven texture, the interengagement between the weft and warp threads conforming to the same twill weave throughout the traverse of said weft threads across said bands, the threads in said loosely woven bands and at the margins of said closely woven bands being swollen to a greater extent than the threads in the closely woven bands, the oblique twill lines thereby extending in sinuous fashion diagonally across the fabric.

2. Anished ornamental woven fabric in which the warp and weft threads are composed ofr swellable continuous-lament yarn having little o1' no twist, the weft threads having a uniform spacing throughout the fabric but the warp threads being reeded to define in the fabric predetermined spaced parallel bands of relatively closely woven texture and intermediate bands of relatively loosely woven texture, the interengagement between the weft vand warp threads conforming to the same twill weave throughout the traverse of said weft threads across said bands, the threads in said loosely woven bands being swollen to a maximum degree and to a greater extent than the threads in the closely woven bands, the threads at the margins of said closely woven bands being swollen to an intermediate degree, each band of thenished fabric thereby shading gradually into the adjacent bands on each side of it and the oblique twill lines extending in sinuous fashion diagonally across the fabric. SIDNEY H. SCHEUER.

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