US2260118A - Art of ornamented knitted wearing apparel manufacture - Google Patents

Description

Oct. 21, 1941. U r MARR 2,260,118

ART OF ORNAMENTED KNITTED WEARING APPAREL MANUFACTURE Filed Dec. 15,1939 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 lll/lill,

ATTORNEY.

Oct. 2l, 1941. u. T. MARR 2,260,118

Amm" ORNAMENTED KNITTED wEARING APPAREL MANUFACTURE 4 Filednec. 15, 1959 2 sheets-sheet 2 ENTOR Patented Oct. 21, 1941 ARTDF ORNAMENTED KNITT'ED WABING APPAREL MANUFACTURE Urban T. Marr, Appleton, Wis., assignor to Zwicker Knitting Mills, Appleton, Wis., a corporation of Wisconsin Application December 1939, seria1N0.3o9,a41

(ci. (s6- 201) 5 Claims.

slow and tedious hand operations in the nature of crocheting.

Aside from the arrangement of producing the ornamented areas by hand work a rather unsatisfactory method was in some instances used wherein the decorated areas were accomplished by machine operations. However, in this particular' method knitting floats on the inside of the blanks always resulted. If these knitting floats are long they are obviously objectionable as fingers may easily catch therein. If the knitting floats are of lesser length an undesirable restriction in the size and extent of the pattern or decorated area unavoidably results.

With these objections and difficulties in mind, the present invention provides for the production of knitted articles having designs or ornamentations incorporated therein entirely by machine knittihg and in a manner so that the knitting floats are interlocked with or laid under certain of the strands of the body fabric with the elimination of long knitting floats and with the lfurther advantagethatthere are no restrictions on the size, shape, or character of the incorporated design ordecorated areas.

While the above object is generally accomplished in the knitted fabric and by the method disclosed in my copending application Serial No.

236,689, filed October 24, 1938, the invention disclosed in said lco-pending application has certain limitations which are overcome by the present invention. For instance, one form of the present invention is applicable to jacquard knitting t which will produce .rib stitch effects which are especially suited for wrist portions of articles of wearing apparel. Another embodiment of the present invention is applicable ,to those forms of knitting commonly employed in body portions of wearing apparel and contemplates the formation of certain design arrangements by the employment of two strands of diiferent colors in the body portion which contrasting color strands also cooperate with t'he third strand in producing special design or pattern areas.

A further object o'f the present invention is to provide an ornamented knitted article and method of producing the same wherein the design is completely fashioned into and interand type and of any selected lcolor combination,

can be knitted into the article.

-A further object of the invention is to provide an ornamented knitted article and method of producingthe same wherein one of two body strands is knitted in pre-determinedwales,with the other of the body strands being also knitted in pre-determined wales and floated across other wales, anl additional design area being accom# plished by floating both of the body strands and utilizing a third strand knit therein in one or more wales and courses, with the third strand overlying the oats of the body strands throughout the design area andbeing held by the floats of the-body strands adjacent the margins of the additional design area.

A further object of the invention is to provide a knitted article with machine fashioned design the purposes disclosed.

With the above and other objects in view, the

' invention consists of the improved knitted article Fig. 2 is a fragmentary view of the `vfabric of the knitted article showing the machine-knit design therein; E.

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary view of an article forming tubular blank of knitted fabricI showing the condition of the same as it is taken from the machinewithparticular reference to the-unfastened -portion of thefdesign threads or` strands before severance, the tubular blank being shown reversed as to its normal condition for use and as to the condition in which it leaves the machine; Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view of the blank turned through half a circle and showing the unfastened portions of the severed strand for the` design, said view also showing the knitting floats which aid in the production of the design;

Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic enlarged vieW of that portion of a knitted article fabric Which includes a modified form of design and knitting arrangement, said view being` of the reverse side of the fabric and showing the body and design strands in knitted relationship;

Fig. 6 isa fragmentary view of the fabric of Fig. 5 showing the design incorporated therein;

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary View of an article forming tubular blank of knitted fabric fashioned according to the stitching arrangement disclosed lin Fig. 5, the blank portion being reversed as to its normal condition for use and as to the condition in which it leaves the machine, the unfastened portions of the design strand being unsevered; and

Fig. 8 isa fragmentary view of the same tubular blank turned through half a circle and showing severance of the unfastened portions of the head, cylinder knitting machine having a plu-v rality of yarn or thread feeds. ,The articles formed from the fabric may be fashionedinto gloves, mittens, scarves or similar articles of`- Wearing apparel. y

The method of knitting the article fabric with the design or pattern therein and With the combination coloring effect obtained in the main form of the invention is subject to ordinaryl variations of machine operation, depending upon the character of the stitch, type of yarn utilized,

vand the size and character of the appliedpattern or design, but essentially the method employed in the several forms of the invention is as follows: During the course of the operation of the machine for knitting the cylindrical blank,

ished article the fabric Will therefore be comat least two of the machine yarn feeds are employed for feeding to the blank forming needles v the yarn for the body fabric. It is also within the contemplation of the invention, and/especially desirable in the lform disclosed in Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive, that the strands fed for forming the body fabric be of contrasting colors, and in some instances they may be of different weights. At a proper time during the knitting of the body fabric a strand of yarn from an additional feed is led into the machine and is operated on Iby proper 4needles in the machine to knit into the fabric, in cooperation with the body forming strands, the stitches for the special design or pattern Whichmay be in any suitable conflguration, of any desired width and size, and in any selected color or colors.

In Fig. l there is depicted semi-diagrammati- V cally and in 'enlarged or magnified form a fragunique design in Which one or both of the body strand in producing the special ornamental ardesignations are followed by the numeral 2, While the yarn strands for the partial design and body fabric, which may be of different contrasting colors and which extend from other feeds (not show n) are indicated in the various courses by the reference letter designations vfollowed by the numerals I and 3 respectively, it being appreciated that the fabric is in a cylinder machine and the strand courses referred 4to are in circular formation.

In the knitting machine utilized, certain selected design forming needles are thrown into andout of operation and these needles, in the exempliflcation of Figs. 1 to4 inclusive, operate on the strands in the manner to be described hereinafter.

The body portion ofthe fabric or blank, in the form shown in Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive is jacquard knitting and the two body strands may, for example, be blue and red respectively. In Fig. 1 the courses in which the letter designations are followed by the numeral I are blue and the courses in which the letter designations are followed by the numeral 3 are red. In the findepicted in Fig.;1, the red and blue body strands may cooperate with the design forming, strand .to produce the special pattern. Referring 'particularly to Fig. 1 the courses areindicated from M to V. inclusive, whereas the Walesare indicated vfrom A to L inclusive. In

the M and N courses a jacquard stitch is formed wherein the No. I yarn knits in alternate wales and floats across the intervening Wales.. and the No. 2 yarn knits in intervening wales and floats across the alternate wales. Coming to the O course, strand O--I is floated across Wale A, knit in Wale B, floatedacro'ss Wale C, knit in Wale D and then floated across Wales E, F, G, H, I, J and K. It then knits in Wale L. The other body strand, 0 3, knits in Wale A, floats across wale B, knits in Wale C, floats across- Wale D, knits in Wales E, F and G, floats across Wales H, I and J, knits in Wale K and floats across Wale L. In this course the design forming strand No. 2 is in tro'4 by CL3 in Wale D, floats over Wales E, F and G,

knits in wales H, I and J, and then iloats'over wales K and L.

In course P strand P-I floats over Wale A, knits in Wale B, floats over Wale C, knits in Wale D, floats over wales E', F, G, H and I, knits in Wale J, floats over Wale K and knits inl WaleL.4` The strand- P3 knits in Wale A, floats over Wale 1 B, knits inV Wale C, floats over Wale D, knits vin wales E, F, and G, floats over wales H, I and J, knits in Wale K and floats over Wale L. Design strand P-Z floats over 'Wale A, passes under the floaty made by P-3 in Wale B, floats over wale'C,

passes back under the float made by strand P--3 in Wale D, floats over wales E, F, and G, knits in Wales H and I, and floats over Wales J, K and L.Y In the Q course strand Q-I floats over Wale A, knits in Wale B, floats over Wale C, knits in Wale D, floats over Wales E, F, G, H and I, knits in Wale J, floats over Wale K and knits in wale L.

Strand Q.3 knits in Wale A, floats over Wale B, knits in Wale C, floats over Wale D, knits in Wales E, F and G, floats over Wale H., knits in Wale I, floats over Wale J, knits in Wale K, and

floats over Wale L. Design strand Q-2 floats.

over Wale A, passes under the float may be Q-3 in Wale B, floats over'wale C, passes back under the float made by Q--3 in'A Wale D, iloatslover Wales E, F and G, knits in Wale H, and floats over Wales I, J, K, and L. y In the R course body strand R--I floats over Wale A, knits in Wale B, floats over Wale C, knits in Wale D, floats over Wale E, knits in Wale F, floats over Wales G, H, I, J and K, and knits in Wale L. The other body strand, R3, knits in Wale A, floats over Wale B, knits in Wale C, floats over Wale D, knits in Wale E, floats over Wale F, knits in Wale G, floats over Wales H and I, knits in Wales J and K, and floats over Wale L. Design strand R-2 floats over Wale A, passes under the float made by R--3 in course B, floats over Wale C, passes back under the float made by Rf-3 in course D, floats over Wales E, F and G, knits in Wale Hand I, and floats over wales J,

In the S course strand S-l floats over Wale'A, knits in Wale B, floats over Wale C, knits in Wale D, floats over Wale E, knits in Wales F and G, floats over Wales H, I, J and K and knits in Wale L. Body strand S- knits inWale A', floats over Wale B, knits in Wale C, floats over Wale D, knits in.wale E, floats over wales F, G, H, I and J, knits in Wale K and floats over Wale L. Design strand S-2 oats over Wale A, passes under the float made by S-S at Wale B, floats over Wale C, passes back under the float made by S-3 at Wale D, floats over Wales E, F and G, knitsin Wales H, I and J, and floats over Wales K and L.

In courses Tto V inclusive the No. l strand knits in alternate Wales and floats across the intervening Wales. The No. 3. strand knits in intervening Wales and floats across the alternatel Wales. This part of the fabric is beyond the special inlaid design so that the design forming strand No. 3 is not here utilized and the body fabric is continued for the desired distance in the same manner. l

It Will be observed that the design forming strand, No. 2,'is secured in the body fabric on both sides of the special inlaid design. As the blank forms and progresses the design forming strand encircles the blank from the last point of fastening in one course'to the first point of fastening or securementin the next course. Consequently the pattern is formed on a full float stitch. In order that the securement ofrthe pattern strand No. 2 may be understood, thefollowing explanation applies: The special inlaid pattern is started by the No. 2 strand Which extends from the proper feed, knitting into and on the fabric With reference to the courses. The design strand is at the proper times held and engaged by The number of such needles is determined by the size of the pattern, With as many needles being used on each side of the pattern as may be desired, these being spaced olf on the desired courses. The. operation of said needles is automatically controlled.

Fig. 3 represents a fragmentary view of a piece of tubular fabric knit according to the method just disclosed wherein an inlaid design formation, indicated at 5 in Figs. 2 and `4, is

K and L.V

so that all Will knit ment of fabric is inside-out relative to its condi tion upon removal from the machine and relative to the position in Which it is normally used in wearing apparel. Upon removal of the blank in the condition shown in Fig. 3, the floats l are connected and extend overa portion of the inverted exposed face of the fabric, as shown. To prepare the fabric for use said floats should be severed and trimmed, and this is accomplished as 'shown in Fig. 4 wherein the float strands 4 are first `severed centrally and are then additionally trimmed relatively close to their points' of securement in the fabric. Fig. 4 shows the blank turned through half a circle relative to the showing in Fig. 3.

A fragmentof the finished fabric, reversed as to Figs. 3 and 4, is shown in Fig. 2 wherein the knitted body fabric 6 has incorporated therein an inlaid design area 5 accomplished in the manner previously described. It Will be observed that the special design strands 2 are knit over lthe floats ofthe body fabric forming strands, and the ends of the design strands are laid under certain floats of the bodyfabric. This absolutely insures against unraveling or dropped stitches'.

Even after the floats 4 of theinlaid design are severed and trimmed, the 'design area is nevertheless tightly secured in the vfabric and the strands of the same Will not pull out. While one type of design has been illustrated and described, it is obvious that the design can be of any type or'pattern and of any incorporated Wherever and the body fabric may rality of independent designs of various characters. It is also to be noted that the contrasting strands i and 3 of the body form a unique and decorative fabric and said body strands also cooperate with the design strand in the formation of a unique and contrasting special inlaid design.

The fabric thus knit may be used for certain forms of knitted Wearing apparel and is particularly Well suited for gloves and mittens. The strands may be of any 'suitable type of yarn, thread, string or-v the like, and the design may be applied by The'entire article is completely knit and finished on the machine and can be produced efficiently and economically and the design areas therein can be formed without limitations and Will simulate the more expensive forms of knitted fabrics desired in the body fabric,

' Which are` subsequently ornamented by hand a mock ribbed formation and is especially suited certain of the needles of the knitting machine.

formed by the particular stitch arrangement of for those portions of garments which preferably have elasticity, such as the Wrist portions of mittens and gloves. As an example the fabric disclosed in Figs. l to 4 inclusive is especially su'ited for the body portion of a mitten, Whereas the'fabric disclosed in Figs. 5 to 8 inclusive is particularly suited for the Wrist and tip'portions of a mitten and deviates from standard practice in the incorporation ofv a special inlaid design area Vin the knitted mock ribbed fabric. The

fabric per se is generally of the type illustrated 1 in U. S.`Patent No. 2,090,982. While particular mention has been made ofthe rib stitch effect in the fabric it 4should be stated thatvthe inlaid design arrangement of the alternative form of the invention. may be associated with the conventional jacquard knitting.

size or Width and can be be formed with a pluany of the .same type of materials. y

. the No. 3 strands light. 'I'he strand for the special inlaid design is represented by the letter designations followed by the numeral 2 and as an example said strand may be of a yellow color so as to contrast With the body fabric.

With particular reference to the showing in y Fig. 5 the courses are indicated vfrom i to o inclusive, Whereas the Wales are indicated from a to h inclusive. In the 7' course body strand j- I knits in Wales a, b and c, floats over Wale d, and knits in Wales e, f, g and h. Body strand 1'-3 knits in Wale a, floats over Wale b, knits in Wale c,

floats over Wale d, knits in Wale e, floats over Walel f, knits in Wale g, and floats over Wale h. 'I'he de-` sign strand, 7`-2, here introduced, floats over Wale a, passes under the float made by :-3 at Wale b, floats over Wale c, knits in Wale d, floats over Wale e, passes under the float made by 7`3 at Wale ffloats over Wale g, and passes back under the float made by j-3 at Wale h.

In the k course. strand Ic--I knits in Wale a and .b, floats over Wales c, d and e, and knits in Wales y vand h. Strand k-3 knits in Wale a, floats over Wales b, c, d, e and knits in Wale g, and floats over Wale h. Designstrand k-2 floats over Wale a, passes under the float made by lc-3 at Wale b, knits in Wales c, d and e, passesunder the float made by k-'IS at Wale f, floats over Wale g, and passes back under the float made-'by liz-3 at Wale h.

Coming to the l course it appears that body strand l-I knits in Wales a and b, floats over wales'c. d and e. and knits in Wales f, y and h. Strand l-3 knits in Wale a, floats over Wales b, c, d, e and f, knits in wale g, and floats over Wale h. Design strand l-2 floats over Wale a, passes under the float made by l-3 at Wale b, knits in Wales c, d and e, passes under the float made by L-3 at Wale f, floats over Wale g, and passes back under the float made by l-3 at Wale h.

In them course body strand m-I knits in Wales a, b, and c, floats over W'ale d, and knits in wales e, f, g and h. Body strand m-3 knits in Wale a, floats over Wale b, knits in Wale c, floats vover Wale d, knits in Wale e, floats over Wale f, knits in 4Wale y, and floats over Wale h. Design strand m-2 floats over Wale a, passes under the floats made by m-3 at Wale b, floats over Wale c,

knits in 'Wale d, floats over Wale e, passes underv ithe float made by m-3 at Wale f, floats over Wale g, and passes back under the float made by m-3 at h.

be seen that body strand n--I knits in all of the Wales Whereas body strand 11-3 knits in Wale a, floats over Wale b, knits in Wale c, floats over Wale d, knits in Wale e, floats over Wale f, knits! in Wale g,and floats over Wale h..

'Ilhe o course is not shown in completed form (but the fabric thereafter Would be continued in the mannei-- described in connection with then course. v s

Fig. '7 represents-a fragmentary view of a piece of tubular fabric knit according to the method the machine and relative to the position in Which The design strand is'notcontinued below nie fn course in the exemplification of Fig. 5 and it Will it is normally used in a garment. Upon removal of the blank in the condition shown in Fig. 7 the floats 4' are connected and extend over a portion of' the inverted exposed face of the fabric as shown. To prepare the fabric for use said floats are of course severed and trimmed, and this is done in the manner shown in Fig. 8 wherein the float strands 4' are flrst severed centrally and are then additionally trimmed relatively close to their points of securement in the fabric. Fig. 8 shows the blank turned through a half circle relative to the showing in Fig. 7.

A fragment of the finished fabric of the modifled form, reversed as to Figs. 7 and 8, is shown in Fig. 6, wherein the knitted body fabric 6' has Wales through Which both of the strands are floated. The design forming strand is knit in the selected wales through which both body strands are floated and the knitted fabric with the design area therein is further characterized by the fact that the design forming strand is held tightly Within the fabric by the floats of one of the body strands at the margins of the design in all of the courses in Which the design strand is knit. In the fabrics of both forms of the invention the design forming strand is absolutely secured under the floats of one or more ofthe body strands adjacentthe margins of the design area and -this is of the utmost importance in obtaining a machine knit design which Will not pull out of the fabric.

It will be understood that numerous changes may be made in the detalls of operation and construction Without departing from the spirit of the invention, as contemplated by the following claims. y

I claim:

l. A machine knitted article, comprising two body strands knit in courses with sections of certain courses of different formation, sections of certain courses having one of the body strands knitted in alternate wales and floated across in' tervening wales and having the other Aof said both of said body strands over certain wales and 'ing knitted in the Wales and stitches in Which bothof-the body strands are floated and being held laterally of said sections by the floats of one vof the body strands only in` the courses in which said third strand is knitted.

2.. A machine knitted article, comprising two contrasting body strands knit in courses With sections of certain courses vof different formation, the first sections of said courses having one of the body strands knitted in alternate Wales and floated across intervening wales and having the other of said body strands floated across the alternate wales and knitted in the intervening Wales, `the next sections of said coursehaving one of the body strands knitted in a plurality of contiguous wales and thereafter floated over a plurality of contiguous Wales with the other of' said said additional strand being held by the floats body strands being floated across the contiguous wales in which the first body strand is knitted to produce part of a predetermined design area, the last sections of the courses completing the design area and being formed by floating bo-th of said body strands over certain wales and introducing a third strand contrasting with both of the body strands, said third strand. being knitted in the wales and stitches inwhich both of the body strands are floated and being held by floats of said body strands laterally of the margins of` said design area only in the courses in which said third strand is knitted.

3. A machine knitted article comprising two body strands, each strand of a different color, one of which is knitted in alternate wales and floated across intervening wales, and the other of which is floated across the' alternate wales and knitted in the intervening wales in part of each course in which they are said courses being constructed by knitting one of said body strands in a plurality of contiguous wales', with` the, same thereafter floated over a plurality of lcontiguous wales, the other of said body strandsbeing floated across the contiguous wales in `which the rst body strand is knitted, thus forming part of the design area, the third and last partof each course being formed by floating both' body strands and an additionalA strand of a different color knit in each .wale and course in which both of the first-mentioned body strands are floated completing the designarea,

knit,the second part of made by one of the body strands in each course in which it is knit ladjacent lthe last-mentioned design area. y

4. A knitted article, comprising two dissimilar body strands, one of which is knitted in alternate wales and iioated across 'intervening wales, and the other of which is knitted in certain wales, both of said body strands being floated across predetermined wales, and` a third contrasting strand associated with portions o f the body strands to form a design area, said third strand being knitted in the Awales in .which both of the body strands are floated and being held laterally Y floated across intervening of the design area by the floats body strands.

5. A knitted article, comprising two body strands differing from one another in thickness, one of which is knitted in alternate wales and wales, and the other of which is knittedin certain wales, both of said body strands being floated across predetermined wales. said body strands prnviding in their knitted relationship a fabric of mock ribbed formation,

of one of said and a third contrasting strand associated with portions of the`body strands'to form a design area, said third strand being knitted in the wales in which both of the body strands are floated and being held laterally of the design area by 'che floats of one of said body strands.

`URsAN T. MARR.

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