US2168868A - Plain knit ornamented fabric - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 8, 1939 J. L, GETAZ 2,168,868

PLAIN KNIT ORNMENTED FABRIC Filed April 17, 1937 4 sheets-sheet 1 1 f ATTORNEY 1 u www l" HIL" rimJl EGB 5 gLkINvENToR J. L. GETAZ PLAIN KNIT ORNAMENTED FABRIC Aug. ze.,A 1939 Filed April 17, 1937 4 Sheets-Sheet 2\ l `aNvl--zNToR l ATTORNEY Aug. 8, 1939 J. L. GETAZ 2,168,868

PLAIN KNIT ORNAMENTED FABRIC Sez-s;

"Las PM EV 8 ATTORNEY A N ENTOR n m- BY Patented Aug. 8, 1939 UNITEDy STATES PATENT OFFICE 5 Claims.

My invention consists in the novel features hereinafter described, reference being had to the accompanying drawings which illustrate several rembodiments of my invention and so much of the apparatus for carrying out the process of makingv the same as is necessary for the purpose of explaining them, and said invention is fully disclosed in the following description and claims. My present invention consists in an ornamented plain knit, preferably circular seamless fabric, having an elastic thread incorporated under tension in certain courses (or in all of the courses) and secured to the fabric at separated wales in each course in which the elastic thread is knitted, without being drawn in a loop or loops at any point in the fabric, so that the elastic thread, preferably of rubber or the well known latex, lies in substantially undistorted lines around the circular fabric and with sumcient tension to draw the fabric together into vertically disposed riblike ridges, simulating rib knitting. The process for the manufacture of such ornamented fabric is not herein claimed as it forms the subject matter of a divisional application filed by me on April 12, 1938, and given Serial No. 201,473. In carrying out my present invention, I feed the elastic thread under tension to the needles in advance of the knitting wave in such manner that it passes on the front side of certain needles, usually every alternate needle, below the latches thereof 'and behind the intermediate needles, so that it will not be drawn into a loop by either set of needles. The needles are then divided into f separate groups, and a backing or body thread is floated. Either the body thread or the plating thread, or both, may be thrown out of action and substituted by another thread according to the number of colors to be produced in thefabric. It will be understood that the selection of the needles which receive the elastic thread in the two ways mentioned, the further selection of the needles into desired and preferablyalternating groups and the manipulation of the thread guides for introducing and withdrawing the body thread, or the plating thread, or both, and substituting a different thread, will all be controlled by the usual pattern mechanism with which the knitting machine is or may be provided, the particular patterns produced by the various threads which are knitted to form the fabric itself, to wit, the body thread or threads, and the plating Y thread or threads, will ordinarily be of contrasting colors, and widely varied patterns of such colors as are selected for the purpose may be produced under the control of the pattern mechanism. It will also be understood that during the knitting of the ornamented fabric, the elastic thread will be continuously incorporated under tension in the Aselected courses and firmly locked in the selected wales of said courses in the manner previously described, preferably in the corresion of the elastic thread will preferably be such that the wales formed by the needles which receive the elastic thread beneath the latches thereof, will be forced to and form the front face of the fabric, while thewales formedby the intermediate needles will be forced to and form the inner face of the fabric which will be drawn together by the tension of the elastic thread into verticalrib-like ridges, closely resembling rib-knit fabric.

By reason of the incorporation of the elastic thread in the fabric in the manner described, the plain knit fabric will have imparted to it form fitting characteristics similar to those of rib knitting, while at the same time the oated portions of the elastic thread on the inner face of the fabric will form a series of horizontally disposed beads to engage the skin of the wearer Vdrens half hose and anklets, and the fabric per se without ornamentation is fully disclosed i'n my former application for Letters Patent of the -United States, Serial Number 53,824, filed December l0, 1935. My present invention permits `of themanufacture of sucharticles of hosiery and particularly those intended for use by women and children, in which the tops of the socks or anklets are ornamented so as to present a more attractive appearance when displayed for sale and when actually worn in the distended condition on the leg of the wearer, without interfering `with the introduction of the elastic thread, and

fully preserving both the form tting and selfsuporting characteristics of the fabric. In this connection, it will be readily understood that as the hereinafter described ornamented fabric is distended in use the body thread which is used in all the stitches of the plain knit fabric will permit all necessary stretch of the fabric to machine and will with the elasticity of the intervening stitches in which the plating thread is knit, provideample elasticity to the fabric without undue strain on the plating thread.

I have found that my invention may be conveniently carried into effect by means of the well known4 Scott and Williams spiral knitting machine, such asis illustrated for example in United States Letters Patent to Ernest W. Marshall and Lawrence B. Holt, No. 2,040,946, dated May 19, 1936, and in the accompanying drawings I have illustrated so much of that machine as is necessary for the purpose of explaining my invention.

In the accompanying drawings:

Figure 1 is a diagrammatic view illustrating an arrangement of needles, thread guides and cooperating parts in a known type or circular knitting machine for carrying my invention into effect. l

Figure 2 is a vertical sectional view of a portion of the knitting cylinder on the line 2-2 of Figure 1, showing a needle with its co-acting needle jack, selecting jack, and co-operating cams, the needle being in the lowered position.

Figure 3 is a similar view on the line 3-3 of Figure 1. y

Figure 4 is a View similar to Figure 2, on the line 4-4 of Figure l, and showing a series of secondary selector cam levers, or reader cam levers, as they are sometimes termed.

Figure 5 is a view similar to Figure 2 on the line 5-5 of Figure l.

Figure 6 represents a perspective view of a series of needles arranged in a straight line for purposes of illustration, and illustrating the manner of feeding the elastic thread thereto.

Figure 7 is a similar view showing the manner in which the body or backing thread is fed to hooks of all of the needles, while the plating thread is fed to the hooks of certain groups of needles and floated in rear of other groups of needles.

Figure Sis a view similar to Figures 6 and '1, showing loops drawn by both groups of needles, while the elastic thread passes in a straight line through the fabric and is locked in selected wales without forming any loops in the elastic thread.

Figure 9 is a diagrammatic view of the inner face of my improved ornamented fabric in distended position showing the arrangement of stitches to form a particular pattern.

Figure l0 is a similar View illustrating the exterior face of the fabric.

Figure 1l is a partial view similar to Figure 9, showing the inner face of the fabric with the tension of the fabric partially released and the float portions of the plating threads relaxed.

Figure 12 represents the upper portion of a sock or anklet, provided with a top composed of my improved ornamented fabric, showing a particular design.

Figure 13 shows a sock or anklet top formed of my improved, ornamented fabric, and provided with a different design.

Figure 14 shows a similar top for sock or anklet illustrating another design.

Referring to the drawings:

Figures 1-6 inclusive, the needle cylinder indicated at I is provided with a circular series of needles, alternate needles being indicated at 2 and being the needles which receive the elastic thread below the latches thereof,the intervening needles of the series being indicated at 2*, each needle being provided with the usual knitting butt or nib 3, for engaging the usual knitting cams shown at 4, 5 and 6. The cam I is operated only in connection with reciprocating work and is shown in dotted lines in Figure 1. Below each needle is a needle jack 'l provided with a cam engaging butt or nib 8, below which is a selecting jack 9 having portions of its inner edge .disposed angularly to other portions so as to permit it to rock against the action of an encircling spring 25, engaging said selecting jacks adjacent to their upper ends. Each selecting jack 9 is provided adjacent to its lower end with aplurality of selecting butts indicated at II, IIb, IIC, etc., preferably twenty-five in number, below which is an operating butt I2 for normally engaging a selector cam indicated at I3, when the selecting jack is in the position in which' it is normally held by the spring 25. This selecting cam I3, is intended to elevate the alternate needles 2 which are to receive the elastic thread e (from a suitable thread guide e') below the latches thereof. In order that only the selected needles 2, which are in this instance alternate needles, shall be raised by the selecting cam I3, I provide means for knocking downthe selecting jacks 9 for the intervening needles 2*, that is to say, the lower ends of the jacks for the intervening needles 2 are forced inward so as to carry their butts I2 out of engagement with the cam I3, as shown at the left in Figure 2. Any suitable means may be employed for this purpose, and in this instance I have shown a stationary auxiliary selector cam I6 for engaging one of the butts or nibs II of the jacks for the needles 2, the corresponding butts or nibs of the needles 2 being broken off so that the jacks for the needles 2 will not be knocked down. As a result of this selection, all of the needles 2 will be elevated by the selecting vcam I3 to such a height that they will receive the elastic thread e below the latches thereof. This is accomplished in the present instance by giving the selecting cam I3 suflicient height to carry the latches of needles 2 above the point at which the thread guide e delivers the elastic thread, but obviously the elastic thread could be fed on the latches of the needles and the needles thereafter elevated suiiiciently to carry their latches above the elastic thread, if desired. The thread guide e' for the elastic thread, is preferably arranged to swing horizontally into and out of operative position, so that the elastic thread can be fed in every course of knitting, or in selected courses, under the control of suitable 4pattern mechanism, and the elastic thread will be fed under predetermined tension, all as fully disclosed in my former application for Letters Patent of the UnitedStates, Serial Number 53,824, led December l0, 1935. 'I'hese specific constructions form no part of my present invention, and need not be more particularly referred to.

'I'he selecting jacks 9 of the intervening needles 2" which are knocked down by the selector cam I3, pass alongside of and within the selecting cam I3, and are not raised. The selecting jacks 9 for the needles 2, will be returned to normal position by a cam I8 which engages the butts 8 of the needle jacks 1. In Figure 3, a needle 2 is shown elevated high enough to receive the elastic thread e below the latch, while the needle 2 is in its lowest position as indicated at 3--3 in Figure 1. The intervening needles 2a, are meanwhile raised by a. shedding cam I1 to the same height as the alternate needles 2, as shown in Figure 1. As the intervening needles 2a rise, they pass in front of the elastic thread e as shown in Figure l, so that as they reach the shedding point the elastic thread is interlaced in front of and behind'adjacent needles, that is to say, in front of the alternate needles 2 below the latches thereof, and in rear of the intervening needles 2B. I

' of the needles into alternating groups.

It is now necessary to make a second selection By the term group, I wish it to be understood that I may include one or more needles, although as a matter of fact each of the alternating groups will ordinarily contain a plurality of needles in order to produce an effective part of the pattern. In this instance, and for purposes of explanation, I have shown the needles divided into alternate groups of three needles each. This secondary selection can be readily effected by a well known form of selecting means with which the Scott and Williams spiral machine referred tois provided. This selecting mechanism comprises a series of horizontally disposed pivotedselecting cam levers, or reader cam levers as they are sometimes termed, 208, 20", 20, etc., as shown in Figure '4, usually twenty-five in number, to accommodate a wide range of patterns. These levers are selectively operated by a series of butts or bits, somewhat similar to the butts II, and arranged vertically on a trick wheel which is moved intermittently in a rotary direction by suitable connections with the pattern mechanism. This mechanism is well known and specifically forms no part of my invention, and it therefore will not be further illustrated nor described. It will be understood that one or more of the reader cam levers will be operated at the proper times to knock down certain of the selecting jacks, so as to prevent their operating butts lI2 from engaging a group selecting cam I3, the apex of which indicated at I3b is higher than the apex of the selecting cam I3, as shown in Figure l.

In this instance, I have shown only the selecting cam lever 2|]a moved inward by the trick wheel into position to engage the first butt Ill on groups of three needles successively, the intervening groups of three needles having the butts IIa of their selecting jacks broken off so that, as previously stated, all of the needles will have been raised to a height indicated by the dotted line z, in Figure 1, after the first selection, previously described, the needles 2 having been raised by the cam I3 and their selecting jacks 9, preferably to the shedding point, and the intervening needles 2EL having been raised independently of their jacks by the cam I1 engaging the butts 3 of said needles. All of the needles will, therefore, be at the same height (indicated by dotted line z), and as the jacks of the selected needle groups a: approach the apex I3b of the cam I3, carrying with them the needle jacks 1, the

needle jacks 1 will engage lthe needles of thedown the knitting Wave by cams 5 and 6, engag- -all of the groups :c of the needles will take both the plating thread and the body thread, while the needles of groups y will take only the body thread. As the needles engage knitting cams 5 and 6, the groups of jacks which have been raised by the selecting cam I3, will be carried downward to their normal positions by the cam I8, Figure 1, which engages the butts 8 of the needle jacks 1.

As previously stated, I prefer to provide a plurality of thread feed guides for feeding alternately plating threads of different colors, and likewise I prefer to provide a plurality of thread in Figure l, an auxiliary thread feed guide f2 for feeding a different face or plating thread f3, and

. I have also shown in the same figure an addi-` tional thread feed guide b2 for feeding a different body thread b3, but I do not limit myself to the use of any particular number of plating threads or body threads. It will be understood that only one thread guide for a plating thread, and one thread guide for a body thread, are ordinarily in the feeding position at the same time, the other or others, being held in inoperative position. While I have, for convenience of reference, indicated the two inelastic threads of which the fabric is composed as body thread and plating thread, respectively, it will be understood that both of these threads are in fact body threads which form the body of the fabric, and are not to be confused with wrap threads used for ornamenting a body fabric, and which do not ente into the structure of the fabric itself.

In Figure 6, I have illustrated in a straight line for convenience of description, a series of consecutlve needles 2 and 2, after the elastic thread e has been fed thereto, and it will be noted that the elastic thread is interlaced with the needles as previously described, and passes under the latches ofthe alternating needles 2, and behind the intervening needles 2B.

In Figure 7, I have illustrated in a similar manner, the same `needles after they have been selected into groups a: and y, respectively, and have passed the feeding points for the face or plating thread f and the body thread b. It will be noted that the needles of the groups 1:, receive both the plating thread ,f and the body thread b' within their hooks, while the needles in groups y receive only the body thread b, while the plating thread f is floated behind these needles as indicated at f4, in Figure 7.

In Figure 8, I have illustrated the same needles in their lowered positions after passing the knitting wave, and drawing their loops. It will be seen in this gure, that the needles of groups 1: will draw composite loops or stitches containing both the body thread b and plating thread f, it being understood that the plating or face thread f will be fed under slightly greater tension than the body thread, so as to cause it to appear on the face of the fabric. The needles of the groups y will draw single loops of the body thread b only, while the plating thread will be floated as indicated at f4 on the back of the fabric in rear of those needles. It will also be seen that as the needles descend, whether of one group or another, the needles 2 which have the elastic thread e below their latches, will permit the elastic thread to pass up over the closed latches and be cast off over the tops of said needles. The intermediate `needles 2l, however, will draw their loops over the elastic thread, as indicated at e2 in Figure 8, and lock the elastic thread in the fabric whether the loops so drawn are single loops or composite loops at the wales formed by the needles 2*.

In Figure 12, I have shown a sock or anklet L provided with a top T of my improved plain knit rubber incorporated fabric containing a design selected by me for purpose of illustration, and capable of being produced by the arrangement of selected needles operating in the manner which I have just described, it being understood that this is merely for purposes of explanation and that any desired pattern can be carried out in any desired colors in the manner previously described.

Referring to the top T, t represents the usual selvage or welt, which is preferably formed of a plurality of courses of stitches containing both the body thread as b, and a plating thread as j, knit continuously and preferably containing in each course, or in certain selected courses, (the elastic thread e, incorporated as previously described.) to form continuous plating. It is only necessary to rotate the trick wheel so that the selecting cam lever 20* will be returned to normal position and the selecting jacks 9 for all of the needles will then be carried up by the group selecting cam Ill to the level indicated by the dotted line z', when all of the needles will take both the plating thread and the body thread. 'I'he trick wheel is then rotated to throw the selecting cam lever 2li* into the position shown in Figure 4, when a series of courses indicated at t in Figure 12, may be knit in the manner previously described. This will result, in the pattern herein shown in Figure l2, in a transverse row of rectangular figures. ts and t", of which t represents stitches produced by the needle groups :r containing both the body thread and plating thread in plated relation with the plating thread on the face of the fabric, while the rectangles t7 represent stitches of the body thread only, produced by the needle groups y.

t2 represents a series of courses of stitches containing a body thread and plating thread throughout, in plated relation, again accompiished by shifting the trick wheel so that none of the needles will be knocked down, and all will be raised by the cam I3". 1

t3 represents a series of courses of stitches containing alternating rectangles t", f7, in which the pattern is varied by causing the plated stitches in the rectangles t*i containing both the body and plating threads to be knit by theI groups y of the needles, while the intervening groups of stitches forming the blocks t7 are 'knit by the groups :c of the needles. This is conveniently effected by a shift of the trick wheel in a well known way to bring another of the selecting cam levers, as 20h, into position to engage butts Hh of the groups y of the needles, the butts Ilb of the groups :i: of the needles, being broken off, in accordance with the well known operation of the Scott and Williams spiral machine, above referred to.

t* represents a series of courses of continuous plating. t5 represents a series of courses corresponding exactly to the courses t', and in this instance, a series of courses indicated at ti and corresponding with the series of courses t of continuous plating, completes this particular design.

It will be understood that the figures indicated at t7 of the design, in this instance, rectangles will appear in solid color formed of the body thread with the plating thread floated on the inner face of the fabric, while the intervening spaces or figures, will present the color of the plating thread. The intervening courses as t2, t4, may also present the plating thread of the same or a different color. on the surface of the fabric. It will also be understood that 'either the body thread or lthe plating thread, or both, may be changed by shifting the thread feed guides so that a variety of colors may appear in the pattern, or they may be confined to two colors, as desired. It will also be understood that when my improved fabric, as the fabric T for example, is removed from the knitting machine, the tension of the elastic threads e in the several courses, (or all vthe courses,) will draw the fabric into vertically disposed rib-like ridges resembling ribwork. The wales in which the elastic thread is locked at e2 (Figure 8), will be drawn to the inner face of the fabric. while the intervening wales will be drawn to the outer face of the fabric. 'I'his lateral contraction of the fabric relieves the float threads, indicated at f, and provides slack therein, which permits thereafter the normal stretch of the fabric as in pulling a stocking over the heel and upon the leg without unduly restricting the fabric.

In Figure 9, have shown diagrammatically a portion of the inner face of my improved fabric, showing the alternating groups of plain stitches and plated stitches in several courses, and the position of the elastic threads here shown in every other course.

Figure 10 is a similar view showing the outer face of the same fabric illustrated in Figure 9. In both of these figures the fabric is shown aslit is knitted, that is, in distended condition, in which the floats f4 of the plating thread f, are shown straightened out and .the elastic threads e are in a state of considerable tension.

vFigure 11 is a partial view of the inside of the fabric with the tension somewhat relaxed, showing the slack in the floats j* of the plating thread,

the elastic threads being still in a state of tension which in the actual fabric holds the oppositely facing alternating wales close together, thus producing a smooth faced fabric comprising the alternate wales which project tothe outer face, the intermediate wales being substantially concealed when the fabric is not distended. Obviously, when the fabric is stretched to a greater or lesser extent, as it is when it is worn on the leg of the wearer, the submerged intermediate wales will be brought to the outer surface of the fabric by the separation of the alternate wales forming the outer face in the undistended condition of the fabric and the units of the pattern will be slightly extended transversely of the top, and will ordinarily show to even better advantage than they do in the undistended condition of the fabric and without any breaks in the pattern units. Thus, the square pattern units shown in Fig. 12 will become oblongs, and the square pattern units with their diagonals disposed vertically and horizontally will become diamond shaped.

As before stated, a wide variety of 4-patterns can be produced in a wide variety of colors, and in Figures 13 and 14, I have illustrated diagrammatically and suggestively, two additional patterns which can readily be produced by proper manipulation of the pattern mechanism previously described.

Where in the following claims I have referred to the plating thread and a contrasting body thread, or vice versa, I intend to indicate either contrast of color or contrast of material, or finish, or any other type of contrast which will cause one of said threads to be easily distinguishable from the other in the fabric.

In an ordinary float plated fabric the presence of floats tends to increase the width of the fabric and to materially limit and reduce the extent to which it may be stretched. Such fabric is, therefore, not commercially usable in any part of the stocking except the legl and foot. By the incorporation of the elastic thread, as herein described, it is particularly adaptable for use for the top of a stocking, `by knitting it so as to provide the necessary width when stretched, while the elastic threads draw the fabric together to reduce the diameter to form-fitting size, both at and between the elastic carrying courses, and producing slack in the oats of the body thread on the inner face of the fabric to permit the fabric to be expanded as necessary when drawn on the foot and leg, in addition to providing the transverse beads on the inner face of the fabric to indent the leg and support the stocking thereon. l

What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is: v

1. An ornamented plain knit form fitting and self-supporting fabric, containing courses formed of two contrasting inelastic body threads, one of which appears at certain portions of the outer face of the fabric in single thread stitches in front of floats of the other thread, said other thread being knit in plated relation with the first mentioned thread, and appearing on the face of other portions of the fabric, said body threads constituting the body of the finished fabric, certain of said courses containing an elasticthread under tension united to the fabric at spaced wales of said courses, the tension of the elastic thread being sufllcient to draw the wales of said plain knit fabric together to reduce its diameter and form vertically disposed rib like ridges therein, and hold said floats of the second mentioned thread in slackened condition to permit stretching of the fabric.

2. An ornamented plain knit form fitting and self-supporting fabric, containing courses formed v of two contrasting inelastic body threads, one of which appears at certainy portions of the outer face of the fabric in single thread stitches in 'front of fioats of the other thread, said other thread being knit in plated relation with the first mentioned thread, and appearing on the face of other portions of the fabric said body threads constituting the body of the finished fabric, certain of said courses containing an elastic thread under tension united to the fabric at vertically corresponding spaced wales of said courses, the tension of the elastic thread being sufficient t'o draw the plain knit fabric together laterally and form parallel rib like ridges therein, and to submerge portions of the wales of the fabric, the stretch of the fabric bringing said submerged wales to the outer surface of the fabric,

and preventing the formation of gaps in the ornamental pattern formed by courses containing stitches of said contrasting inelastic threads.

3. An ornamented plain knit form-fitting and self-supporting top for an article of hosiery, consecutive courses ofy which are formed of two contrasting inelastic body threads, one of which appears at certain portions of the outer face of the fabric in single thread stitches in front of floats portions of said courses, other courses of the fabric comprising the two threads throughout in plated relation said body threads constituting the body of the finished fabric, certain of the courses of said fabric containing an elastic thread incorporated therein under tension, and united to the fabric at vertically aligned spaced wales of said courses without being drawn into loops, the tension of said elastic thread drawing the fabric into parallel vertical rib' like ridges, and submerging certain wales of the fabric, and holding the floats` in slackened condition to permit the stretch of the fabric to bring said submerged wales to the outer surface and avoid the formation of gaps in the ornamental pattern formed by said contrasting inelastic threads.

4. An ornamented plain knit form-fitting and self-supporting fabric, containing courses formed of two contrasting inelastic body threads, one of which appears at certain portions ofthe outer face of the fabric in single thread stitches in front of floats of the other thread, said other thread being knit in plated relation with the first mentioned thread and appearing on the face of the other portions of the fabric said body threads constituting the body of the finished fabric, certain of said courses containing an elastic thread incorporated therein under tension Without being knit, and united to the fabric at spa/ced wales of the courses containing it by portions of one of said inelastic threads in the single thread stitches and portions of both the inelastic threads in the plated stitches, the tension of the elastic thread being sufficient to draw the wales of the plain knit fabric together to reduce its diameter to form parallel vertically disposed rib like ridges therein, and submerged portions of thel wales between the points of union of the elastic thread to the fabric, the stretch of the fabric bringing said submerged wales to the outer face of the fabric and preventing the formation of gaps in the ornamental patterns formed by said contrasting inelastic threads.

5. An ornamented plain knit form-fitting and self-supporting fabric, containing courses formed of two contrasting inelastic body threads, one of which appears at certain portions `of the outer face of the fabric in single thread stitches in front .of fioats of the other thread, said other thread being knit in plated relation with the rst mentioned thread, and appearing on the face of other portions of the fabric said body threads constituting the body of the finished fabric, certain of said courses containing an elastic thread incorporated therein under tension and united to the fabric at corresponding alternate wales of said courses by portions of one of the inelastic threads in the single thread stitches, and by both of the inelastic threads in the plated stitches, and oated on the inner face of the fabric between the points of attachment thereto, the tension of the elastic thread being sufcient to draw

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