US2164749A - Stocking and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

July 4, 1939. H. c. MARTIN ET AL i STOCKING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed May 19, 1958 4Shee tsSheet 1 I N VEN TOR` Wr M ATTORNEYS' July 4, 1939, H. c. MARTIN Er AL STOCKING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed May 19, 1958 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 7l INVENTORS BY /If/n ATTORNEY;

July 4, 1939. H. c. MARTIN .ET Al.

STOCKING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed May'ls, 1938 4 sheets-sheet s IN VENTORS ATTORNEYS July 4, 1939.

H. C. MARTIN El' AL STOCKING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed May 19, 1958 INVENTORS ATTORNEY` Patented July 4, .1939* UNITED STATES PATENT GFFICE STOCKING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME tion of New York Application May 19, 1938, Serial No. 208,750

13 Claims.

Our invention relates to a new and improved stocking and a new and improved method of making the same.

One of the objects of the invention is to provide an improved stocking having a leg portion made of lace fabric, such as open lace fabric.

Another object of the invention is to make a blank having reinforced sole portions or heel portions or toe portions, or any combination thereof.

Another object of the invention is to provide a method whereby stockings of this kind can be made at relatively low cost.

Other objects of the invention will be set forth in the following description and drawings which illustrate preferred embodiments thereof, it being understood that the above statement of the objects of our invention is intended generally to explain the same Without limiting it in any manner.

Fig. l is a diagrammatic side elevation, partially in section, illustrating the use of the Levers lace machine for making a multiple blank, which includes any desired number of the improved individual blanks.

Fig. 2 is an elevation showing a part of the improved multiple blank, showing reinforcing threads.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged detail view showing a non-reinforced portion and also showing a reinforced portion of the improved blank.

Fig. 4 is an elevation of a part of the multiple blank after loose reinforcing threads have been clipped, illustrating the lines along which the individual blanks are separated from the multiple blanks.

Fig. 5 is an elevation showing one embodiment of the improved individual stocking blank whereby reinforced areas are provided for making the sole portion of the stocking, the toe portion of the stocking, and also for providing reinforcement directly above the heel of the stocking.

Fig. 6 shows a completed stocking made from the blank which is illustrated in Fig. 5.

Fig. '7 shows a modification of Fig. 5. In Fig. '7 the blank has reinforced areas for making the sole portion of the stocking and also for providing reinforcement above the heel of the stocking. However, the blank illustrated in Fig. 'l does not have reinforced portions for forming the toe portion of the stocking.

Fig. 8 is a partial perspective View of a stocking made from the blank illustrated in Fig. '7.

Fig. 9 is an enlarged detail view showing how additional thread is applied to reinforce a portion of the blank.

Fig. 10 is an enlarged detail view showing how the reinforcing threads are applied to the threads of the base fabric.

Fig. l1 is a sectional view on the line II-I I of Fig. 9.

In the well known type of lace-making machine which is exemplified by the Levers machine, the shuttles pass back and forth between the warp threads in the machine, in planes which are perpendicular to the planes of the Warp threads. After the shuttles or bobbins have iinished their strokes, the warp threads are shifted laterally. Hence, during the return stroke, the shuttles will not pass between the same warp threads.

Further detailed description of this well known type oi machine is unnecessary, as it is old and well known per se. The invention is not limited to the use of any particular type of machine.

Referring to Fig. 1, this shows a pair of main Warp beams I and Ia. The beam la is located above the beam I, and the beam Ia is offset relative to the beam I, in the usual manner. Two sets of warp threads 2 and 2a are led off the respective warp beams I and I a in the usual manner. Each said set may include any desired number of warp threads.

Since the Levers type of lace-making machin-e is well-known, the essential parts of said machine are illustrated diagrammatically in Fig. 1. This shows the main warp-threads threaded through or between guide bars 3, which are shifted laterally under the control of jacquard mechanism, so as to produce `the desired pattern, so that the warp-threads are also shifted laterally. The warp threads pass between one of a pair of point-bars 5, 'I to the take-up roll 8, with which the usual friction-roll 9 is associated. The bobbins 4 with their weft-threads T, are reciprocated between guides 5 and 5a. The point-bars pick up and bear the weftthreads in the usual manner.

If the machine is operated with the use of the warps on the Warp beams I and ia, a conventio-nal lace fabric of the type made on the Levers machine is produced.

According to the invention, we employ a suitable number of auxiliary rack beams IIJ. Each of these auxiliary rack beams I0 has a series of auxiliary Warp threads Ta led off therefrom. These auxiliary warp threads Ta pass through the eyes of guide rods II, so that the auxiliary warp threads Ta can be arranged in any desired number of sets or banks and these auxiliary warp threads Ta can be led through or between the guide bars 3 so as to provide reinforcement for predetermined or selected zones cr areas of the multiple blank.

As shown in Figs. 2 and 4, the auxiliary warp threads are applied so as to provide reinforced Zones or areas Z having the shape shown in Fig. 4 so as to provide each individual stocking blank (in this embodiment) with a reinforced Zone or area Z which corresponds to the sole of the stocking, including the toe portion thereof and a reinforcement for the stocking, above the heel thereof. The bobbin-threads are twisted around the auxiliary warp-threads in the Zones Z, but not intermediate said zones. The blank otherwise consists of lace or mesh material of the usual type.

Intermediate the reinforced zones Z and as shown in Fig. 2, the auxiliary warp threads Ta are free from the body of the fabric so that the auxiliary warp threads can be readily removed by cutting or the like intermediate the zones of reinforcement, without cutting the body of the fabric. A large multiple blank may thus be made on the machine.

After the multiple blank has been completed, it can be removed from the machine, and the auxiliary warp threads Ta can be removed, save at the reinforced Zones or areas which are indicated in Fig. 2 and in Fig. 4.

Fig. 3 also illustrates in detail the loose warp threads Ta, extending from the reinforced Zone Z. The shape of the reinforced Zone or Zones Z can be determined automatically by suitable jacquard control.

The base fabric is essentially lace material having closed meshes, as shown for example in Fig. 3.

After the loose warp threads Ta have been removed, the multiple blank is cut along the lines l2 so as to provide individual blanks of the type shown in Fig. 5 or in Fig. '7, depending upon the shape of the Zones Z in the multiple blank.

Referring to Fig. 5, the reinforced zone Z is formed with notches Ill. In order to make it possible to form these notches lil, the Zones Z are formed at portions ida with open stitches or meshes which can be readily cut. These areas Ma also guide the operator in forming the notches i4.

As shown in Fig. 9, the main meshes I6 which are formed by the main warp threads 2 and 2a, and by the bobbin threads T, are of uniform size throughout. The auxiliary Warp threads Ta and the bobbin threads T are interlooped around the walls of the meshes I6, as shown in detail in Figs. 9, l0 and 1l.

The auxiliary warp threads Ta are preferably much thinner than the main warp threads 2 and 2a. The auxiliary warp threads preferably do not pass through more than either three or four of the closed meshes l5. This is clearly shown in Fig. 9 in which the reference numeral l? indicates the starting point of one of the auxiliary warp threads. This auxiliary warp thread crosses the meshes I6 at the consecutive points I8, i9, 20, 2l, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 21, etc.

It will be noted that the distance between the points 22 and 23 corresponds to four main meshes, and this is the preferred maximum distance The claims for the improved article are not limited to any particular method of manufacture.

When the machine is started, the warp threads (including the auxiliary Warp threads), and the bobbin or weft threads are connected to the take-up roll in the usual manner.

The main Warp threads and the auxiliary warp threads may form a single tier in a single plane in the Levers machine, at the Zone where the bobbin threads pass between. said warp threads.

The main warp threads and the auxiliary warp threads are held spaced from each other by the guide bars 3.

When the auxiliary warp threads are to be combined with the meshes of the body of the fabric, said auxiliary Warp threads are shifted laterally by the jacquard control. When the multiple blank is formed intermediate Zones Z, the auxiliary warp threads are not shifted laterally.

As shown in Fig. 2, the Zones Z are of general V-shape, and they are arranged in rows which form staggered series. For example, Fig. 2 shows three complete successive zones Z. Said Zones are successively reversed in direction, in each said series.

The reinforcing threads or auxiliary warp threads are placed in front of the regular warp threads. While the reinforcement or reinforcements are being made, the reinforcing threads (auxiliary warp threads) are moved by the conventional jacquard control to a predetermined position or positions, so that the reinforcing threads are tied into the warp threads by means of the bobbin threads.

When the auxiliary warp threads are not used for making a reinforcement, said auxiliary warp threads are moved to such position that said auxiliary warp threads pass between the bobbins so that the auxiliary warp threads are not tied into the fabric by the bobbin thread. This allows the auxiliary warp threads to'remain loose on the face of the fabric so that the auxiliary warp threads can be clipped readily at the junction or outline of the reinforcement.

We have shown preferred embodiments of our invention but numerous changes and omissions can be made without departure from its spirit.

The claims for the article of manufacture are not to be limited to the method of making the same which is illustrated herein.

The leg of the blank, and any part thereof, may be made of any material,knitted,netted,or woven, using any type of yarn or combination of yarns, including elastic yarn.

The invention also applies generally to all articles of wearing apparel and to piece goods.

Whenever we refer to a single reinforced zone in a claim or claims, this includes a plurality of said Zones. The reinforced Zone in the foot-portion is not limited to any portion or portions thereof. The auxiliary warp threads could be connected to the stocking blank at any Zone or zones thereof, in addition to the foot-portion, without departing from the invention. The part of the stocking blank above the heel may be considered as part of the foot-portion. The blank is preferably of substantially equal thickness throughout, although it may be thicker at the re.- inforced Zone or Zones. The reinforcing auxiliary warp threads are preferably located between the main warp threads.

The meshes of the lace fabric in which the auxiliary warp threads are located may be of the same size or of a different size than the non-reinforced meshes in the main body of the fabric. The meshes in which the auxiliary warp threads are located, are preferably larger than the nonreinforced meshes. The auxiliary warp threads across each other so as to interloop them, as shown in Fig. 10, in addition to being connected with the bobbin threads.

The distance between points Il-l, points i8-l9, etc., may be designated as a run of the auxiliary warp thread or threads.

We claim:

l. In the art of making a lace fabric having a reinforced zone, said fabric having warp threads which are connected by bobbin threads, those steps which consist in making a base fabric from -said warp threads, and said bobbin threads to form closed meshes, interconnecting auxiliary warp threads by means of said bobbin threads to said meshes of said base fabric at said zone during the making of said fabric, while leaving the remaining portions of said auxiliary Warp threads unconnected to said base fabric, and clipping the remaining portions of said auxiliary warp threads from said lace fabric.

2. In the art of making a lace stocking blank having a leg-portion and a foot-portion, said foot-portion having a reinforced Zone, said blank comprising warp threads which are connected by bobbin threads, those steps which consist in making said blank from said warp threads and said bobbin threads to form closed meshes, interconnecting auxiliary warp threads to said meshes of the blank during the making of said meshes at said Zone while leaving the remaining portions of said auxiliary warp threads unconnected to said blank, and clipping the remaining portions of said auxiliary warp threads from said blank.

3. A method of making a plurality of lace stocking blanks, each of which has a leg-portion and a foot-portion, each foot-portion having a reinforced Zone, which consists in making a multiple lace blank having closed meshes from warp threads and bobbin threads interconnecting auxiliary warp threads to said meshes during the making thereof so as to form successively reversed zones arranged in zig-zag relation while leaving the remaining portion of said auxiliary warp threads unconnected to said multiple blank, clipping said remaining portions from the blank, cutting the multiple blank to form a plurality of individual blanks 4. A stocking blank made of lace fabric and having a leg portion and foot portion, said fabric having closed meshes consisting of warp threads interconnected by bobbin threads, said foot-portion having additional auxiliary warp threads interconnected with said bobbin threads at the walls of said closed meshes and forming a reinforced Zone at the sole portion of the blank.

5. A stocking blank made of lace fabric and having a leg portion and foot portion, said fabric having closed meshes consisting of warp threads interconnected by bobbin threads, said foot-portion having additional auxiliary Warp threads interconnected with said bobbin threads at the walls of said closed meshes and forming a reinforced zone at the sole portion of the blank and also at the toe portion of the blank.

6. A stocking blank made of lace fabric and having a leg portion and foot portion, said fabric having closed meshes consisting of warp threads.

interconnected by bobbin threads, said foot-portion having additional auxiliary warp threads interconnected with said bobbin threads at the walls of said meshes and forming a reinforced zone at the sole portion of the blank and also at the toe-portion of the blank and also directly above the heel-portion of the blank.

7. A stocking blank made of lace fabric and having a leg portion and foot portion, said fabric having closed meshes consisting of Warp threads 1 interconnected by bobbin threads, said foot-portion having additional auxiliary warp threads interconnected with said bobbin threads at the walls of said meshes and forming a reinforced zone at the foot-portion of the blank.

8. A method of making a plurality of lace stocking blanks, each of which has a leg-portion and a foot-portion having a reinforced zone, which consists in making a multiple lace blank by moving main Warp threads from main Warp beam-means to a take-up roll, also moving auxiliary warp threads from auxiliary beammeans to said take-up roll, moving shuttles on which bobbin threads are located ack-and-forth between said warp threads and shifting the main warp threads laterally to form a fabric having continuous closed meshes which consist of said main warp threads and said bobbin threads, also shifting the auxiliary warp threads laterally in predetermined relation to the shifting of the main warp threads so as toform said reinforced zones in said multiple blank by connecting said auxiliary warp threads to the walls of said meshes in said zone, thus leaving the auxiliary warp threads free from said meshes intermediate said Zones, clipping the free portions of the auxiliary warp threads from the blank, cutting the multiple blank to form a plurality of individual blanks.

9. A method of making a plurality of lace stocking blanks, each of which has a leg-portion and a foot-portion having a reinforced zone, which consists in making a multiple lace blank by moving main warp threads from main warp beam-means to a take-up roll, also moving auxiliary warp threads from auxiliary beam-means to said take-up roll, moving shuttles on which bobbin threads are located back-and-forth between said warp threads and shifting the main warp threads laterally to form a fabric having continuous closed meshes which consist of said main warp threads and said bobbin threads, also shifting the auxiliary warp threads laterally in predetermined relation to thecshifting of the main Warp threads, so as to form said reinforced zones in said multiple blank by connecting said auxiliary warp threads to the walls of said meshes in said zone, thus leaving the auxiliary warp threads free from said meshes intermediate said zones,

clipping the free portions of the auxiliary warp threads from the blank, cutting the multiple blank to form a plurality of individual blanks, and making said meshes in the reinforced zones larger than the meshes adjacent said reinforced zones.

10. A stocking blank made of lace fabric and having a leg-portion and foot-portion, said fabric having closed meshes consisting of warp threads interconnected by bobbin threads, said foot-portion having additional auxiliary warp foot-portion having additional auxiliary Warp 75 threads interconnected with said bobbin threads at the Walls of said meshes and forming a reinforced Zone at the foot-portion of the blank, said closed meshes being larger in said zone than adjacent thereto` 12. A stocking blank made of lace fabric and having a leg-portion and foot-portion, said fabric having closed meshes consisting of Warp threads interconnected by bobbin threads, said foot-portion having additional auxiliary Warp threads interconnected with said bcbbin threads at the Walls of said meshes and forming a reinforced zone at the foot-portion of the blank, said closed meshes being larger in said zone than adjacent thereto, the auxiliary Warp threads being thinner than the rst-mentioned Warp threads.

13. A stocking blank made of lace fabric and having a leg-portion and a foot-portion, said foot-portion having a reinforced zone, said fabric having closed meshes consisting of warp threads interconnected by bobbin threads, said zone having additional auxiliary Warp threads interconnected with said bobbin threads at the Walls of said closed meshes, said auxiliary Warp threads being crossed and interlooped, in addition to being interconnected with said bobbin threads, said additional Warp threads crossing said meshes in said zone.

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