US2151017A - Tailor's model - Google Patents

Description

March 21, 1939. J. DOR1QER TAILORS MODEL Filed Nov. 24, 1956 f m w e. 0 n D Y r 0 f. a t e A n n. 1! a 7n J Patented Mar. 21, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFIQE Application November 24, 1936, Serial No. 112,565 In Germany July 29, 1935 3 Claims.

This invention relates to a method of producing a tailors model or bust copied from the human body by the application of paper or another suitable material by means of an adhesive, for the purpose of facilitating the fitting of garments by tailors or dressmakers.

The idea of employing in place of the human body itself or in place of standard tailors busts individual busts which are made according to the numerous differences existing in the bodies of different persons does not constitute novel matter per so.

In the known busts, however, the production is not only complicated and tedious but also calls for expensive apparatus, so that very few persons are in a position to acquire busts of this nature. Moreover the known busts do not agree with the exact form of the body or parts of the body or with the exact carriage of the person for whom the bust is intended.

In contradistinction to the known busts the invention consists in a method of producing cheaply and rapidly a strong and durable bust which conforms accurately to the body of the person for whom it is intended, not only as regards the actual form and measurements but also the carriage of such person. For this purpose the bust obtained by securing paper or the like by means of an adhesive to a gauze vest or base has the requisite strength imparted thereto by a reinforcement from the inside, for example by the application of a coating of suitable material.

In order also to impart to the bust thus produced, which agrees in all details to the human body, exactly the same carriage as that possessed by the person concerned, it is mounted on an upright which is furnished with means permitting of secure attachment of the bust to the upright and an adjustment of the bust towards all sides. It is only by means of the new method and the means employed that there may be produced cheaply and with comparatively little trouble a bust of the character referred to which constitutes a complete substitute for the persons own body, for example when garments are made in the home.

Additional features of the invention will become apparent as the description proceeds.

The invention will now be described more fully with reference to the accompanying drawing, the different views of which illustrate the production of a bust in accordance with the invention.

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of the finished bust proper.

Fig. 2 is a longitudinal section through the bust together with a portion of the appertaining upright or support.

Fig. 3 is a cross-section through the support on enlarged scale showing the regulating means.

Fig. a is an enlarged sectional view of a fitting for the neck portion of the bust.

The vest composed of a suitable thin material and placed over the body to be copied has short strips of paper or like material applied thereto in all directions by means of an adhesive, in such fashion that a form is produced which is modelled exactly in accordance with the body of the person concerned. This form is then cut open, removed from the body of the person, and again joined together. This form, which is designated a in Fig. 2, is now coated on the inside with a suitable material, such as prepared chalk (whiting) with glue or flour, which becomes quite hard when dry, so that a hard and durable article is produced, which may be employed, for example, for tailoring operations without danger of the bust being indented under pressure. If desired the reinforcement of the bust may also be performed by applying to the inner faces thereof suitably formed strips or the like of paper or a similar material, which are secured by an adhesive and are adapted to the inner cavities of the basic form. In this way, therefore, the walls of the bust are reinforced without variation of the external dimensions;

In order now to mount the bust thus produced in such fashion that it will exactly agree with the body of the person for whom it is intended both as regards size as well as carriage the bust is fitted on an upright which permits of its adjustment not only towards all sides but also in a vertical direction.

For securely attaching the bust to the. upright there is employed a special fitting h (Fig. 4) which is inserted into the opening in the neck of the bust and possesses itself an opening at the top for the upright. This fitting consists of a hollow member composed of cardboard or the like, which is tapered conically or in other suitable fashion towards the front and in accordance with the opening in the neck of the bust possesses an oval cross-section. In this manner the bust bears with a comparatively large surface and, within the neck portion, in tightly encompassing fashion against the upright, so that the weight of the bust is taken over in reliable fashion. The fitting It may consist of one single piece of papier-mach or a like compressed material or of several parts suitably connected together.

The upright, which is furnished with a foot at the bottom, possesses at the upper end a plurality of apertures, through which there is passed a peg 0 one above and one below the top of the fitting h so as to hold the bust securely in the desired elevated position on the upright. In order also to provide the bust at the bottom with the necessary hold in relation to the upright and at the same time to impart thereto the exact carriage of the person concerned the upright is furnished with a regulating means which is adjustable in height. This regulating means comprises, for example, a disc g composed of wood or the like, which in the embodiment shown in the drawing possesses two horizontal throughgoing borings one above the other adapted to receive the rods b. The borings are oval in cross-section and are of such a width that two rods b are capable of sliding side by side in each boring.

The disc g possesses away from the centre in the angle between the two oval borings a vertical boring for the upright 0 having a diameter which is larger than that of the said upright. In the oval horizontal borings the four rods 1) are so mounted that eachrod is shiftable per se. The rods b each possess at the one end a reinforcement having a curved outer face adapted to bear against the inner face of the bust. 12 is a screw, which contacts at its inner end with the upright c.

The regulating device operates as follows: At first all four rods b are withdrawn to such extent from the disc g that the curved outer faces bear against the inner face of the bust. The rods are then again advanced singly until the bust assumes on the upright a. position corresponding to the carriage or bearing of the person con.- cerned. When the desired position has been attained the screw d is screwed into the disc g until the end thereof bears tightly against the upright. By the tightening of the screw all four rods b, which project beyond the borings and thrust against the upright c, are pressed still more tightly against the latter and thus securely held.

All peculiarities in the anatomy and the carriage of a person, such as smaller left hip, pro- Jecting shoulder blades or rounded shoulders, factors which govern the fit or hang of a garment, i. e., the underlying principle of the tailoring art, may be reproduced perfectly accurately by means of the new bust according to the invention in conjunction with the described regulating means.

As regards the exact bearing or carriage of the person, it is also necessary when the bust is mounted on the upright that its elevated position thereon should exactly coincide with the height of the particular person. In accordance with the invention, consideration is taken to this point in the following manner: On the bust,

when the same is still on the body of the person whose measurements are being copied, a line or other marking e is provided about the perlphery. There is then measured the distance between this marking and the fioor, and the figures are noted on the bust. When now the bust is mounted on the upright in such a position of elevation that the marking thereon is the correct distance from the floor and the necessary lateral regulation has been made, the bust on the upright will agree with the actual person in measurement, form and carriage. Accordingly, for home tailoring purposes, the new bust repre sents in every respect a complete substitute for the living model.

The ends of the shoulders. are preferably made of a flexible material, such as rubber or the like. In this manner when fitting a garment on the bust the garment may be readily slipped over the same by pressing gently on the ends of the shoulders, an operation which is accompanied by considerable difficulty or in some cases is practically impossible without provision of the flexible ends.

The new method described in the above may be employed for producing not only busts but also other articles, shapes or forms, such as hat blocks.

It will be understood that no limitation is made to the specific form of embodiment shown in the drawing, and that numerous modifications are quite possible within. the meaning of the above description and the annexed claims without departing from the spirit of the invention.

What I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In a tailors model or bust, a basic form, a bust-forming material secured by an adhesive to the said form to constitute the bust proper, a

reinforcing material applied to the inside of the bust and constituting an integral part of the bust, an upright on which the said bust is mounted, a fitting in the neck of the said bust adapted to bear with a large surface against the said upright, flexible shoulders on the said bust, and means permitting of the adjustment of the said bust on the said upright on all sides and in all directions.

2. In a tailors model or bust, a basic form, a bust-forming material secured by an adhesive to the said form to constitute the bust proper, a reinforcing material applied to the inside of the bust and constituting an integral part of the bust, an upright on which the said bust is mounted, flexible shoulders on the said bust, and means permitting of the adjustment of the said bust on the said upright on all sides.

3. In a tailors model or bust, a basic form, a bust-forming material secured by an adhesive to the said form to constitute the bust proper, a reinforcing material applied to the inside of the bust and constituting an integral part of the bust, an upright on which the said bust is mounted, flexible shoulders on the said bust, means permitting of the adjustment of the said bust on the said upright on all sides and in all directions, and a peripheral marking on the said bust to mark the correct location of the bust on the upright from the ground.

JOHANNES DGRRER.

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