US2021636A - Sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

J. H. PlKUL.

SEWING MACHINE Nov. 19, 1935.

4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Oct. 27, 1954 lnvenTo'r.

\Jo'seph'H. Pi Kui WMJIW ATTys.

Nov. 19, 1935. J..H. PIKUL 2,021,636

SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 27, 1934 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 InvenTor.

Joseph H. PiKul WWMJIW AUys Nov. 19, 1935. J. H. PIKUL SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 27, 1954 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 lnvenTor. Joseph H.| iKu| 1 m MkW I A1 Tys.

Nov. 19, 1935. J, u 2,021,636

SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 2'7, 1934 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Fig.4.

i nvnTor. U oseph H. PiKul b igmwwkf Patented Nov. 19, 1935 PATENT OFFICE SEWING MACHINE Joseph H. Pikul, Boston, Mass, 'assignor to The.

Reece Button Hole Machine Company, Boston, Mass., a corporation of Maine Application October 27, 1934, Serial No. 750,335

11 Claims.

This invention relates to sewing machines of the buttonhole type and especially to a sewing machine designed to sew imitation buttonholes.

In making some garments it is customary to sew buttons on the garments at some points, such for instance as on the sleeve of a coat, for the purpose of ornamenting or dressing up the garment, and sometimes it is desirable to sew an imitation buttonhole (that is, a line of buttonhole stitching simulating the stitching of a buttonhole but without the buttonhole slit) on the garment at the point where the button is fastened, thereby to give the garment the appearance of being buttoned together at this point. Such imitation buttonholes are usually placed on the garment adjacent a seam, and in making the garment the imitation buttonhole is usually sewed in the fabric of the garment adjacent an edge thereof which subsequently is seamed up.

The sewing machine herein shown for sewing imitation buttonholes is in some respects similar to an ordinary buttonhole sewing machine, but it has this difference, that while in a sewing machine for sewing regular buttonholes the stitching usually begins at the end of the buttonhole furthest from the edge of the fabric and proceeds along one side of the buttonhole toward the edge of the fabric and then around the end of the buttonhole adjacent the edge and then back to the starting point, in the device of the present application the machine is arranged so that the stitching begins at the .endsof the imitation buttonhole adjacent the edge of the fabric and then proceeds along one side of the imitation buttonhole in a direction away from the edge of the fabric and around the end of the imitation buttonhole furthest from the edge of the fabric and then proceeds back to the starting point.

The machine herein shown is also similar to a buttonhole machine for sewing regular buttonholes in that in both cases the fabric isplaced in the sewing machine with the edge thereof adjacent which the buttonhole is tobe sewed directed away from the operator or toward the back of the machine, but there is this further difference that while in sewing a regular buttonhole the relative feeding movement between the stitchforming mechanism and work-holding means is first away from the operator toward the rear of the machine and toward the edge of the fabric while sewing on the first side of the buttonhole and then is toward the operator and toward the front of the machine and away from the edge of the fabric during the sewing .on the second side of the buttonhole, in sewing the imitation buttonhole by the machine embodying the present invention the relative feeding movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means is first in a direction away from the edgeor toward the operator and the front of the ma- 5 chine for sewing the stitches on the first side of the imitation buttonhole, and after the stitching has been carried around the end of the imitation buttonhole adjacent the operator the relative feeding movement is then in a reverse direction 10 away from the operator and toward the rear of the machine to carry the stitches along thesecond side of the imitation buttonhole to the starting point.

The sewing machine herein illustrated is similar 15 to that type of buttonhole-sewing machine in which the under thread mechanism is in the form of oscillatory loopers and with this type of sewing machine the stitch-forming mechanism comes to rest at the end of the sewing operation 20 on a buttonhole with the needle raised and with a loop of needle thread caught on the loopers.

In the machine of this application a construction is employed by which after the stitch-forming mechanism comes to rest at the end of a 25 sewing operation, said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means are given a relative movement in a direction away from the edge of the fabric, or in the same direction as the feeding movement during the sewing on the first side 30 of the imitation buttonhole, of suificient extent to cause the upper thread to be broken at the last stitch, and after the thread has been broken the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means are given a reverse relative movement toward the edge of the fabric or in the same direction as the feeding movement during the sewing on the second side of the buttonhole thereby to bring the parts to stopping position.

In order to give an understanding of the invention I have illustrated in the drawings a selected embodiment thereof which will now be described after which the novel features will be pointed out in the appended claims.

Fig. 1 is a side View of a sewing machine embodying the invention;

Fig. 2 is a view of said machine looking from the opposite side from that shown in Fig. 1 and with the parts broken out;

Fig. 3 is a section on the line 33, Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a view of a portion of a fabric showing the imitation buttonhole sewed therein;

Fig. 5 is a view of an imitation buttonhole and also showing the path of the needle in forming 55 the stitches and in breaking the thread at the end of the sewing;

Fig. 6 is a diagrammatic view illustrating the needle path;

Fig. '7 is a fragmentary view showing the operation of the upper thread pull-off;

- Fig. 8 is a fragmentary plan view of the upper thread pull-off;

Fig. 9 is a fragmentary View of the clutchcontrolling lever;

Before describing the machine herein illustrated I will refer to Figs. 4, 5 and 6 which show the character of the stitching which is made by the machine.

In Fig. 4, 2 indicates a piece of fabric which may be the portion of the sleeve of a coat, in which is formed two imitation buttonholes shown at 13, each buttonhole having a line of stitching 10 along one side and a second line of stitching H along the other side thereof, the stitching ex tending around the end 76 of the buttonhole furthest from the edge 12 of the fabric. This imitation buttonhole has the square end 15 nearest the edge !2 and the rounded end 76 furthest from said edge. 14 indicate the buttons which are sewed to the garment at the imitation buttonhole, and said buttons are usually sewed to the square ends 75 thereof. Fig. 4 shows one button in full lines with the corresponding buttonhole partly hidden and the other button in dotted lines with the imitation buttonhole shown in full.

The sewing machine herein shown is similar to that type of buttonhole sewing machine in which the work is held on a stationary work frame and the stitch-forming mechanism is carried in a stitch frame movably mounted on the work frame.

In the drawings 1 indicates the bed frame or work frame to which the work 2 is clamped by means of suitable Work clamps 3 pivoted to the bed frame at 4.

The stitch-forming mechanism is carried by a stitch frame indicated at 5. This frame is formed with the usual overhanging arm 6 in which reciprocates a needle bar '5 carrying the needle 8 which controls the upper thread 9, and said stitch frame is also provided with the under portion ID in Which is rotatably mounted a turret II that carries under thread mechanism, preferably in the form of oscillatory loopers, and which also supports the usual throat plate l2.

The stitch-forming mechanism is operated in usual manner by the stitch shaft l3 which is carried by the stitch frame 5 and is driven by a driving pulley 4|. The stitch frame is moved back and forth on the bed frame or work frame I by means of a main cam I4 which is received in a cam housing 15 formed in the lower portion I!) of the stitch frame.

The connections by which the rotation of the cam [4 produces the back and forth feeding movement of the stitch frame are similar to that usually found in buttonhole sewing machines of this type in that it comprises a stud l6 rigid with and depending from the stationary bed frame I and operating in a cam groove l1 formed in the cam I l.

The movements given to the stitch frame by the cam I4 comprise first a movement from starting position to stitching position and then a feeding movement lengthwise of the imitation buttonhole first in one direction and then in the other to form the stitches along opposite sides of said imitation buttonhole and to bring the stitch frame back to the position where the stitching began, at which point the stitch-forming mechanism comes to rest, and then a reverse movement from stitching position, during which the upper thread is broken at the last stitch, and 5 finally a movement back to starting position.

The stitch-forming mechanism is turnable about a vertical axis to provide for sewing around the end of the buttonhole and the usual means are provided for giving such turning movement, 10 such means comprising a rock shaft l8 which is actuated by the main cam l4, and which has fast thereon gear segments I9, 20 meshing with gears 2|, 22 formed on the turret and on the needle bar mechanism respectively. 15

The usual means are provided for rotating the main cam, such means being a shaft 23 having a worm 24 thereon meshing with worm teeth formed on the periphery of the cam I4.

The shaft 23 has loose thereon a combined 20 driving pulley and clutch member 25 by which the shaft is rotated when the machine is set in operation and while the parts are moving from starting position to stitching position. When the stitching position has been reached the stitch 25 shaft I3 is set in operation thereby actuating the stitching mechanism and the rotation of the shaft 23 is then derived from the stitch shaft I3. After the stitching has been completed the stitch shaft comes to rest and the pulley 25 is again 30 clutched to the shaft 23 to rotate the shaft and give the cam [4 the necessary movement to carry the parts from stitching position to threadbreaking position and then back to starting posi tion. 35 The means for clutching the pulley 25 to the shaft 23 is such as is usually found in buttonhole sewing machines of this type. This pulley is mounted on a sleeve 26 which is slidable on the shaft 23 and is provided .with a clutch dog 21 4 the stitch frame at 3| 0 and which has an arm 45 32 that is connected to a collar 33 operating in a groove in the sleeve 26. This clutch-controlling member 30 is acted on by the spring 3| which tends to move it in a counter-clockwise direction Fig. 3, which movement will shift the sleeve up- 50 wardly, Fig. 3, thereby clutching the pulley to the shaft 23. The clutch-controlling lever 30 is held in the position shown in Fig. 3 by engagement with a projection 34 carried by a lever 35 pivoted at 35 on the under side of the bed frame I. 55 The outer end of this lever is provided with an extension 31 which is adapted to be engaged by the tail 38 of the usual starting lever 39, the latter being pivoted to the bed frame at 40.

When the starting lever is depressed the tail 50 38 is disengaged from the extension 3'! thereby freeing the lever 35 and the spring 3| then acts to swing the clutch-controlling lever 30 into the dotted line position Fig. 3 and cause the pulley 25 to be clutched to the shaft 23. This is the 5 construction usually found in buttonhole sewing machines of this type.

The sewing machine herein shown is also provided with the usual means for disconnecting the pulley 25 from the shaft 23 and setting the stitch shaft l3 in operation when the parts have been shifted from starting position to stitching position. The stitch shaft I 3 is driven by the usual driving pulley 4| which is clutched to the stitch shaft at the proper time by means of the 75 -2,o21';e3e

1 usual :cmtch do azi pivoted-st ls onedisk"- 44' fast on the shaft l3.

Ffg. --2 showsthe clutchdisengaged and with the tail 45 of the clutch dog engaging the-"stop 'proj'e'ction 46. When thence-projection "46 is moved to the right into'the 'dotte'dline position Fig. 2' therebYto' disengage -it fiom the tail of the clutch dog, the-"latter will be thrown into operative position by the usual spring thereby clutching the pulley 4 l to "the Shaft l3 in the usual -way. This"stop'projection 46 isca'rried f by"='a' rocking member '48, such as is commonly employed in sewing 'machines of this type, and which is.pivotallymountedo-n the stitch frame at *49 and is formed 1 with the depending arm '50 'andwivith a laterally-extending arm 5 l'. The lat- ""eral arm*5| is engaged by a thrust'pin 52 which extends through a slot in the bed frame I and co=operates with a stitch'cam53'carried' by the main cam l4.

' When' the stitch-formingmechanism is at rest the thrust 'pin 52 rests on'the face'54 of'the main When the machine is started and =while the parts are moving from" starting position to stitching position the main cam 14 is turned in a clockwise-direction Fig. 3 and'when stitching po- 5 sitio'n is reached the inclined face 55 of the cam 53 engages the underside of the th'rust'pin 52 and forces the pin upwardly thereby rocking the lever 48 clockwisean'd disengaging the stop projection 46 from the clutch dog 45. This will start the stitch-forming mechanism in operation as will be understood by those familiar with buttonhole sewing machines of this type.

Thestitch cam'53 is acurved cam whichfollows the peripheral shape of themain cam l4arid isof sufficient length to maintain the thrust pin 52' raised during the entire time that the stitching operationis being performed.

When the end 56 of the stitch cam passes out from under the thrust-pin 52 the rocking'memloer '48 will'be given a counter-clockwise move- "end of the depending arm 50 is received.

When the starting lever is operated thereby releasing the clutch-controlling lever 30 and the latter is-shifted under the influence of the spring 3! into the dotted line position Fig. 3, which shifting movement causes the driving'pulley' 25 to be clutched to the shaft -23 as above described,

the edge 60 of the opening 59 will be brought 'sub stantially into engagement withthe lower end of the arm 50.

When the stitch cam 53 raises the thrust pin 52 and thereby rocks the rocking member 48 to release the clutch dog 45 the correspondingswinging movement of the arm 50 will by its engagement with the edge 60 of the opening 59 swing the clutch-controlling lever 30 into the position shown in Fig. 3 thereby disconnectingthe pulley 25 from the shaft. When the stitching'has been completed and thestitch mm 53 has passed out from under the thrust pin 52 thecounter-clo'ckstopping position.

"wisembv en'ient of the rocking-membe smile the arm' fill bywhich the clutchdog 45 is dis- '-en'gaged allows the clutch-controlling lever '30 to 'svving into the dotted line position Fig. 3*under the influence of the'spring 3i thereby "again clutching the pulley 25 to the shaft 23 softhajt the main cam will be'driven bythis rapid feed drive to'-'1nove the parts from stitching position to thread-breaking position and then back into Figs. 1, Z'and 3 show the parts in' the position they take when the machine is brought to rest and 'just before it is started, the needle atsuch time having the position indicated at a (see Figs. 1,2, '7 and 8) "and the follower l6 occupying the po- "sition'in the cam groove I'I shown in full lines The stitch frame 5 is then in itsrear- Fig. 3. most position.

The cam 14 rotates in a clockwise"vililrec'tion Fig. 3 andwhen the machine is startedhnd the clutch wheel 25 is clutched to the shaft '23, thereby to-g'ive said tam its initial'high fspeed movement, the'camwill, by itsfrotatio'n, shift the stitch "frame 5 forwardly tobriri'g the needle from the position shown at 'a to the dotted line position b in Figs. 1 and 2, and to the bposition in Figs. 5 and 6, which is'the position 'at "which the stitching starts. During this interval f'the cam M has turned sufficiently so that the follower [6 has travelled from the starting'po'sition a to approximately the position indicated at -b"in'Fig. 3. As the cam continues its'rotation the follower it travels through the'portion of the cam groove from the point i) to c thereby-moving the stitch "frame '5 forwardly to carry the needle from the bposition to the 0 position during which time the stitches 19 along the first side of the imitation buttonhole are formed. When :the "0 position has been reached the turret/and the stitch-forming mechanism are turned to sew around the end 15 of the imitation buttonhole and duringthe further continuedjurning movement of the cam the follower I5 is caused to travel from the point c tothe -pOint-D thereby giving the stitch frame a backward movement to bring theneedle back from the 0 position to the b-position againjdu'ri ng which'lrno'vement "the line of stitching H on the other side of'the'imitation buttonhole is formed.

When the cam has turned so thatthe follower has travelled to the'point b inthe groove l1 and the needle is in the 1) position the stitchir'fg has been completed and the stitch-forming mechanism is brought to rest. At this time the-clutch wheel 25 is again clutched to the shaft 23 to produce a rapid rotation of the'c'am M for the remainder of the buttonhole cycle. 'During the further rotation of the cam the follower I5 is caused to travel through the portion of the cam groove between the point 17 in Fig. 3 and the point d, during which movement the stitch frame is given a second forward movement to carry the needle from the 12 position to the d position. During this forward movement the upper thread is broken at the last stitch and this takes place becaus when the stitch-forming I mechanism "comes to "rest the needle will b'eraise'd and a-lo'o p of needle thread will be caught on the looper mechanism. As the stitch frame moves for"- wardly while the work is still clamped the strain o-n'the loop of upper thread will be sufficient to cause said thread to break where'it is bound into the last stitch.

The s ape of the can; giddt 11 between the points b and d is such that'the forward thread- Kit) ?breaking movement of the stitch frame is less than the forward sewing movement but is, however, sufiicient to cause the upper thread 9 to be broken. As the cam M completes its rotative movement and the follower passes from the point d to the starting point a, the stitch frame will be moved backwardiy again to carry the needle from the d position through the b position, which is the position at which the stitching starts and stops, to the stopping position indicated at a, 'and shown by full lines Fig. 3, at which time the machine is brought to rest by the disengagement of the clutch wheel 25 from the shaft 23. This final disengagement of the clutch wheel from the shaft to bring the machine to rest is produced by the co-operation of a cam surface 6| on the clutclncontrolling lever 3% with the projection 34.

It will be understood that the clutch-controlling lever 38 is mounted on the stitch frame and during the final backward movement of the stitch frame to bring the parts into the position shown in Figs. 1 and 2 this cam surface 6! engages the projection 34 and thereby causes the lever 38 to swing from the dotted to the full line position Fig. 3, such movement disengaging the clutch wheel 25 from the shaft 23.

The breaking of the needle thread 9 at the last stitch leaves beneath the work the length of thread which constituted the loop that was caught on the looper mechanism when the stitching mechanism was brought to rest. The present invention provides an improved means for engaging the needle thread between the needle and the work and withdrawing this end of needle thread from the work and holding it until the first stitch is formed on the next succeeding imitation buttonhole.

Buttonhole sewing machines are usually provided with buttonhole-cutting mechanism including a cutter lever pivoted to the stitch frame and actuated by a cam projection formed on the main cam M thereby to cut the buttonhole after the stitching has been completed. In the machine embodying the present invention the buttonhole cutter is omitted since it is desired not to out the buttonhole slit but the cutter lever on which the cutter element of the regular buttonhole sewing machine is mounted is made use of in the present invention as a means for mounting and operating a thread pull-off for the upper thread.

In the drawings 62 indicates a lever pivoted to the stitch frame 5 at 63, said lever having a tail portion 64 adapted to be actuated by a cam pro- ,iection 65 that is carried by the main cam I4. This cam projection operates to rock the lever 62 from its raised inoperative position shown in Figs. 1 and 2 to its operative position shown in Fig. 7 and then to release the lever and allow the spring 9! to return it to its inoperative raised position between the time that the stitch frame is moving from the position in which the stitching stops and the stopping position shown in full lines in the drawings. This movement of the lever 62 is made use of to pull the end of the needle thread back through the work as stated above. For this purpose the lever arm 62 has a short lever 66 pivoted thereto at 61, one end of said lever being pivoted at 68 to one end of a link 69, the other end of which is pivoted to the stitch frame at 99. The outer end of the lever 66 is provided with a lateral extension to which is pivoted at 8| a pull-off finger 82, the latter having the hooked end portion 83. This pull-off finger normally rests against a laterally-extending rest 84 with which the lever arm 62 is provided and it is acted on by a spring 85 which holds it yieldingly against the rest.

86 indicates a piece of felt which is secured to 5 the inner face of the finger.

When the lever 62 is in its normal raised position shown in Figs. 1 and 2 the pull-off finger 82 will be situated in the rear of the needle as shown in Fig. 1. When the lever arm 62 swings clock- 10 wise Fig. 1 into the position shown in Fig. 7 the short lever 66 will be turned from the position shown in Fig. 1 to that shown in Fig. '7 by the action of the link 69 and this turning movement will throw the pull-01f finger 82 forwardly a sufii- 15 cient distance to bring the hooked portion 83 thereof in front of the thread 9. During this forward movement of the pull-oiT finger the hooked end-83 will wipe by the length of upper thread leading from the needle 8 to the work 2 2 thus bringing the thread into the position relative to the pull-off finger shown in Figs. '7 and 8. es the lever arm 62 swings back into its raised position the pull-off arm 82 will be given a backward movement during which the needle thread 25 is caught by the hook 83 with the result that the end of the thread will be pulled free from the fabric. During this operation the thread becomes wedged between the felt pad 86 and the hook as so that the end of the thread will be 30 fiictionally held as shown in Fig. 1.

I claim:

1. A sewing machine adapted to sew a short seam and then come to rest, said sewing machine having work-holding means, stitch-form- 35 ing mechanism including a needle, feeding means to give the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism a relative feeding movement first in one direction and then in the opposite direction thereby to form two parallel lines of stitches, and means to bring the stitch-forming mechanism to rest at the end of the movement in said opposite direction, said feeding means operating after the stitch-forming mechanism has come to rest to give the work-holding means and stitch-forming 45 mechanism a suincient relative movement in the first-named direction to break the thread extending from the needle to the work, and then a return relative movement to starting position.

2. A sewing machine adapted to sew a short seam and then come to rest, said sewing machine comprising work-holding means, stitchforming mechanism including a needle, feeding mechanism to give the stitch-forming mechanism a feeding movement relative to the workholding means first in one direction and then in the opposite direction, thereby to form two parallel lines of stitches, and means to bring the stitch-forming mechanism to rest at the end of the movement in said opposite direction, said feeding means operating after the stitch-form ing mechanism has come to rest to give the stitchforming mechanism a sufficient movement in the first-named direction to break the thread extending from the needle to the work and then a 65 return movement to starting position.

3. A sewing machine adapted to sew a short seam and then come to rest, said sewing machine comprising a bed frame, work-holding means mounted thereon, a stitch frame, stitchforming 7O mechanism carriedthereby, means to give the stitch frame a feeding movement first in one direction and then in a reverse direction thereby to form two parallel lines of stitches, means to bring the stitch-forming mechanism to rest at the end of the reverse movement, said firstnamed means operating after the stitch-forming mechanism has come to rest to give the stitch frame a second movement in the first-named direction of sufficient extent to break the thread at the last stitch, and then a reverse movement to starting position.

4. A sewing machine for sewing an imitation buttonhole comprising a bed frame, work-holding means mounted thereon, a stitch frame movable on the bed frame, stitch-forming mechanism carried thereby, a main cam, connections between the main cam and the stitch frame by which during each complete buttonhole cycle the stitch frame is moved first in one direction and then in theopposite direction, and then is moved a second time in the first-named direction and back to the starting point, and means to bring the stitch-forming mechanism to rest at the end of the first reverse movement.

5. A sewing machine for sewing imitation buttonholes comprising a bed frame, work-holding means mounted thereon, a stitch frame movable forwardly and rearwardly on the bed frame for movement toward and from the front of the machine, stitch-forming mechanism carried by the stitch frame, means to give the stitch frame a forward movement from starting position to stitching position and then a further forward movement and a return movement to stitching position, means to start the stitch-forming mechanism in operation when the stitch frame first reaches stitching position and to bring the stitch-forming mechanism to rest when the stitch frame returns to stitching position, said firstnamed means operating after the stitch-forming mechanism has come torest to give the stitch frame a second forward movement sufficient to break the thread and then a return movement to starting position.

6. A sewing machine for sewing imitation button holes, said machine comprising a work frame, work-clamping means mounted thereon and adapted to clamp the work in position with an edge directed away from the front of the machine, a stitch frame, a stitch-forming mechanism mounted thereon, means to give the stitch frame and work frame a relative movement toward the front of the machine and away from said edge of the work and subsequently a return relative movement away from the front of the machine and toward said edge of the work, thereby to form two parallel lines of stitching in the work, and means to bring the stitch-forming mechanism to rest at the end of the return relative movement.

'7. A sewing machine for sewing imitation buttonholes, said machine comprising a work frame, work-clamping means mounted thereon and adapted to clamp the work in position with an edge directed away from the front of the machine, a stitch frame, a stitch-forming mechanism mounted thereon, means to give the stitch frame and work frame a relative movement toward the front of the machine and away from said edge of the work and subsequently a return relative movement away from the front of the machine and toward said edge of the work, means to rotate the stitch-forming mechanism between the forward and return relative movements,

thereby to form two parallel lines of stitching in v the work connected by a curved line and means the front of the machine and toward said edge of the work, thereby to form two parallel lines of stitching in the work, and means to bring the stitch-forming mechanism to rest at the end of the rearward movement.

9. A sewing machine for sewing imitation buttonholes, said machine comprising a work frame, work-clamping means mounted thereon and adapted to clamp the work in position with an edge directed away from the front of the machine, a stitch frame, stitch-forming mechanism mounted thereon, means to move the stitch frame on the work frame forwardly toward the front of the machine and away from said edge of the work and subsequently rearwardly away from the front of the machine and toward said edge of the work, thereby to form two parallel lines of stitching in the work, and means to bring the stitchforming mechanism to rest at the end of the rearward movement, said first-named means acting after the stitch-forming mechanism has come to rest to move the stitch frame again forwardly toward the front of the machine a sufficient distance to break the thread at the last stitch, and then rearwardly to starting position.

10. In a sewing machine for sewing two approximately parallel rows of stitches connected at one end by a curved row of stitches the combination with work-clamping means arranged to clamp the work adjacent the edge thereof, of stitch-forming mechanism, means to give the stitch-forming mechanism and the work a relative movement away from the edge of the Work and then a return relative movement toward the edge of the work, and means to give the stitchforming mechanism a partial rotation between said relative movements whereby the curved connecting row of stitches is at the end of the parallel rows furthest from the edge of the work and said rows extend from the curved row toward the edge of the work.

11. In a sewing'machine, the combination with work-clamping means for clamping material adjacent an edge thereof, of stitch-forming mechanism, means to give the stitch-forming mechanism and the material a relative feeding movement first inwardly away from the edge of the material and then outwardly toward the edge of the material, means to rotate the stitch-forming mechanism at the end of the inward relative movement and means to bring the stitch-forming mechanism to rest at the end of the outward relative movement.

JOSEPH H. PIKUL.

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