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US20090012155A1 - Composition Of Skin External Application For Anti-Aging - Google Patents

Composition Of Skin External Application For Anti-Aging Download PDF

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Publication number
US20090012155A1
US20090012155A1 US12/064,887 US6488706A US2009012155A1 US 20090012155 A1 US20090012155 A1 US 20090012155A1 US 6488706 A US6488706 A US 6488706A US 2009012155 A1 US2009012155 A1 US 2009012155A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
skin
green tea
catechin
theanine
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US12/064,887
Inventor
Jeong Ki Kim
Hyun Jung Shin
Su Nam Kim
Byeong Gon Lee
Ih Seop Chang
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Amorepacific Corp
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Amorepacific Corp
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Priority claimed from KR1020050083665A external-priority patent/KR101219293B1/en
Priority claimed from KR1020050083667A external-priority patent/KR101219296B1/en
Priority claimed from KR1020060021797A external-priority patent/KR20070091964A/en
Application filed by Amorepacific Corp filed Critical Amorepacific Corp
Assigned to AMOREPACIFIC CORPORATION reassignment AMOREPACIFIC CORPORATION ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: CHANG, IH SEOP, KIM, JEONG KI, KIM, SU NAM, LEE, BYEONG GON, SHIN, HYUN JUNG
Publication of US20090012155A1 publication Critical patent/US20090012155A1/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16—Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P29/00—Non-central analgesic, antipyretic or antiinflammatory agents, e.g. antirheumatic agents; Non-steroidal antiinflammatory drugs [NSAID]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P43/00—Drugs for specific purposes, not provided for in groups A61P1/00-A61P41/00
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an anti-aging composition for external use on skin, and more particularly, to an anti-aging composition for external use on skin comprising at least one of catechins and flavonols as an active ingredient to inhibit decomposition and promote generation or protection at the dermis-epidermis junction.
  • the skin which is a primary barrier of the human body protects organs in the body from change of temperature and humidity and stimulation from the outer environment such as UV rays and pollutants and plays an important role for homeostasis such as regulation of body temperature.
  • excessive physical and chemical stimulation from the outside, UV rays, stress and malnutrition may deteriorate normal functions of the skin and promote skin aging such as elasticity loss, keratinization and wrinkle formation.
  • the dermis-epidermis junction is severely damaged by UV irradiation.
  • Gelatinase (MMP-2, MMP-9) is an enzyme to decompose type IV collagen, type VII collagen and other extracellular matrix which are components of the dermis-epidermis junction.
  • MMP-2 and MMP-9 are detected in the UV-exposed epidermis.
  • the activity of gelatinase in the skin is detected near epidermal stratum basalis and stratum spinosum in the chilled forehead skin.
  • gelatinase is detected in the epidermis of the UV-exposed skin such as the face.
  • UV rays induce formation of gelatinase in the epidermal stratum basalis, a part of them participates in destruction of the dermis-epidermis junction and the rest stays in the epidermis and reaches the epidermis.
  • the dermis-epidermis junction When the dermis-epidermis junction is damaged, wrinkle is formed by flattering of the junction, multiplication and heat insulation, and the skin is sagged and is apt to be damaged. Also, by the loss of the characteristic barrier function, the dermis-epidermis junction fails to filter pollutants from the outer environment, whereby noxious materials can readily infiltrate to the dermis and the skin can be damaged. In order to recover the damaged dermis-epidermis junction or maintain it at the healthy state, its components should be maintained as they are. The components which is known that whose biosynthesis is decreased, as the age increases, are type IV collagen, type VII collagen and laminin 10/11.
  • Laminin 5 does not shown change while the components whose biosynthesis is increased are gelatinase (MMP-2 and MMP-9) which is known to be associated with decomposition (Lavker et. Al. J. Invest. Derm. 1979, 73:59-65, Pouliot et. Al. Exp. Dermatol. 2002, 11:387-397).
  • the present inventors have searched a method for effectively controlling various factors affecting skin aging and found that various change of the junction between the dermis and epidermis caused by natural aging and photo-aging, including degeneration, heat insulation and multiplication, can be prevented or recovered by using a composition for external use on skin comprising at least one of catechins and flavonols which are extracted from green tea.
  • a composition for external use on skin comprising at least one of catechins and flavonols which are extracted from green tea.
  • catechins or flavonols from the green tea extract can inhibit the decomposition and promote the generation at the dermis-epidermis junction, thereby strengthening the bonding between the dermis and the epidermis, whereby they can be used in cosmetic preparations and pharmaceutical compositions for anti-aging.
  • composition for external use on skin with excellent anti-aging effect comprising at least one of catechins and flavonols as an active ingredient.
  • composition for external use on skin with excellent anti-aging effect comprising theanine in addition to the above-described components from the green tea extract as an active ingredient.
  • composition for external use on skin comprising at least one of catechins and flavonols of the green tea extract as an active ingredient can reduce biosynthesis of gelatinase (MMP-2, MMP-9) and increase biosynthesis of type IV collagen, type VII collagen and laminin 10/11 to inhibit the decomposition and promote the generation at the dermis-epidermis junction, thereby protect the dermis-epidermis junction.
  • MMP-2 gelatinase
  • MMP-9 type IV collagen, type VII collagen and laminin 10/11 to inhibit the decomposition and promote the generation at the dermis-epidermis junction, thereby protect the dermis-epidermis junction.
  • FIG. 1 is a graph showing the result of the measurement of MMP-1 biosynthesis by various test samples.
  • composition for external use on skin comprises at least one of catechins and flavonols from the green tea extract as an active ingredient.
  • the catechins used according to the present invention is extracted from green tea and includes epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate (GCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG), catechin gallate (CG), epigallocatechin (EGC), gallocatechin (GC), ( ⁇ )epicatechin (EC), (+)epicatechin (EC), ( ⁇ )catechin (CA) and (+)catechin (CA), with preference being epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate (GCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG) and catechin gallate (CG) expressed by the following formulae 1 to 4.
  • the flavonols used according to the present invention is extracted from green tea and includes quercetin, kaempferol and myricetin, with preference being kaempferol and myricetin, more preference being myricetin.
  • the composition for external use according to the present invention comprises 0.001 to 10 wt %, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt % of the active ingredient, based on the total weight of the composition. If the content is less than 0.001 wt %, it is difficult to expect significant effects, while if the content excesses 10 wt %, it is impossible to formulate the composition.
  • composition for external use on skin further comprising theanine as an active ingredient, in addition to the component from the green tea extract.
  • Theanine is one of amino acids giving savory taste of green tea and has effect of inhibiting excitation caused by caffeine. In fact, it has been observed that human bodies intaking theanine shows increase in a wave appearance showing stabilized and tranquil state of mind (Nippon Nogeikagaku Kaishi, 1998, 72 (2): 153-157).
  • the theanine used according to the present invention may be one selected from L-form which is extracted from green tea, and L-theanine, D-theanine and DL-theanine which are chemically synthesized, or may be prepared other methods.
  • the composition for external use on skin comprises theanine in combination with at least one of catechins and flavonols from the green tea extract
  • the content of at least one of catechins and flavonols from the green tea extract in the composition is determined from the result of in vitro experiments and in vivo experiments and is preferably 0.0004 to 0.025 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the content is less than 0.0004 wt % the component cannot act as an effective ingredient, while if the content excesses 0.025 wt % the improvement of the symptoms is rather deteriorated.
  • the content of theanine is determined from the result of in vitro experiments and in vivo experiments and is preferably 0.008 to 2.5 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the content is less than 0.008 wt %, the component cannot act as an effective ingredient, while if the content excesses 2.5 wt % the improvement of the symptoms is rather deteriorated.
  • composition for external use on skin comprises the green tea extract and theanine in a predetermined mixing ratio.
  • catechin to theanine is 1:20 to 1:100 for optimal anti-aging effect of skin.
  • composition for external use on skin prevent and improve skin aging through promotion of collagen synthesis, improvement skin elasticity and improvement of skin wrinkles.
  • composition for external use on skin activates peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-alpha (PPAR- ⁇ ) to inhibit tumor necrosis factor ⁇ (TNF- ⁇ ) and biosynthesis of MMP-1, thereby inhibiting skin aging.
  • PPAR- ⁇ peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-alpha
  • Peroxisome is one of organelles providing causes of abnormal metabolic functions leading hyperlipidemia, diabetes and obesity. For a long time, this organelle has been considered to play a tiny role in the cell. However, according to many recent studies, it has been reported that it plays very important role in control of cell multiplication/differentiation, control of inflammatory mediators and the like and widely affects metabolism of oxygen, glucose, lipid and hormones. It has been found that peroxisome affects the formation of the cell membrane and adipocyte as well as insulin sensitivity, through lipid metabolism and glucose metabolism and plays an important role in aging and tumorigenesis through action on oxidative stress (J Cutan Med Sirg 5 (3):231-43, 2001, J Cutan Med Sirg 5 (4):315-22, 2001).
  • PPARs peroxisome proliferator-activated receptos
  • PPAR- ⁇ peroxisome proliferator-activated receptos
  • the present inventors have exams general information on biology of these PPARs and effects and working mechanism of PPAR- ⁇ on skin, particularly relation with skin aging to find a ligand capable of inducing activation.
  • the composition for external use on skin according to the present invention it is possible to inhibit inflammation induced by natural aging and photo-aging, thereby preventing or recovering skin aging.
  • the composition for external use according to the present invention can inhibit expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1, an enzyme to decompose the dermis by inflammation inhibiting mechanism through activation of PPAR- ⁇ .
  • composition for external use according to the present invention is not particularly limited in its formulation but may be cosmetic compositions including, for example, skin softener, skin lotion, massage cream, nourishing cream, pack, gel or skin adhesive type cosmetic formulations, or transdermal formulations such as lotion, ointment, gel, cream, patch or spray.
  • cosmetic compositions including, for example, skin softener, skin lotion, massage cream, nourishing cream, pack, gel or skin adhesive type cosmetic formulations, or transdermal formulations such as lotion, ointment, gel, cream, patch or spray.
  • composition for external use in various formulation types may comprise the above-described essential components in combination with other components which may be selected by the workers in the art without any difficulty according to the formulation type or the purpose of use.
  • Human keratinocytes were cultured in a 24-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 10 4 . After 24 hours, the plate was irradiated by UV-B at 30 mJ/cm 2 . The media were exchanged with new medium containing 10 ppm of each test substance. After 2 days of cultivation, each supernatant was harvested and subjected to the zymography using gelatine gel to obtain produced MMP-2 and MMP-9, quantities of which were then measured by a densitometer. The data were calculated as comparative values, referred to 100 of UV control and the result is shown in Table 1.
  • the active ingredient used as an active ingredient in the present invention myricetin, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate (GCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG), catechin gallate (CG), green tea catechin extract and green tea extract reduced biosynthesis of MMP-2 and MMP-9, enzymes to decompose type IV collagen and type VII collagen of dermal matrix, thereby preventing decomposition of the dermis-epidermis junction.
  • EGCG epigallocatechin gallate
  • GCG gallocatechin gallate
  • ECG epicatechin gallate
  • CG catechin gallate
  • green tea catechin extract and green tea extract reduced biosynthesis of MMP-2 and MMP-9, enzymes to decompose type IV collagen and type VII collagen of dermal matrix, thereby preventing decomposition of the dermis-epidermis junction.
  • Human keratinocytes were cultured in a 24-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 5 ⁇ 10 4 .
  • the media were exchanged with new medium containing 10 ppm of each test substance. After 24 hours of cultivation, each supernatant was harvested and subjected to the Dot Blot method to measure the amount of produced type IV collagen.
  • the data were calculated as comparative values, referred to 100 of UV control and the result is shown in Table 2.
  • the active ingredient used as an active ingredient in the present invention myricetin, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate (GCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG), catechin gallate (CG), green tea catechin extract and green tea extract increased biosynthesis of type IV collagen.
  • Human fibroblasts were cultured in a 24-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 10 4 .
  • the media were exchanged with new medium containing 10 ppm of each test substance.
  • each supernatant was harvested and subjected to the Dot Blot method to measure the amount of produced type VII collagen.
  • the data were calculated as comparative values, referred to 100 of UV control and the result is shown in Table 3.
  • the active ingredient used as an active ingredient in the present invention myricetin, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate (GCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG), catechin gallate (CG), green tea catechin extract and green tea extract increased biosynthesis of type VII collagen.
  • Human keratinocytes were cultured in a 24-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 5 ⁇ 10 4 .
  • the media were exchanged with new medium containing 10 ppm of each test substance. After 24 hours of cultivation, each supernatant was harvested and subjected to the Western Blot method to measure the amount of produced laminin 10/11.
  • the data were calculated as comparative values, referred to 100 of UV control and the result is shown in Table 4.
  • Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative example 1 were prepared in a nourishing cream formulation as shown in Table 5 and applied on the back of a nude mouse 5 times per week for 2 weeks. Then, the formulations were applied 5 times on the back while the back was irradiated with UV 3 times per week for 12 weeks. Through biopsy, the change at the dermis-epidermis junction was examined using an electron microscope.
  • myricetin when myricetin is used in combination with epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate (GCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG), catechin gallate (CG), green tea catechin extract and green tea extract, the effect was better, as compared to the case when myricetin is used alone. Also, it was more preferable to use myricetin at a low concentration in combination with catechin, as compared to the case when it is used alone at a high concentration.
  • EGCG epigallocatechin gallate
  • GCG gallocatechin gallate
  • ECG epicatechin gallate
  • green tea catechin extract green tea extract
  • Human fibroblasts were cultured in a 48-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 10 4 .
  • the media were exchanged with new medium (theanine: 1, 10, 100 um) containing each test substance of Table 7 at a concentration of 0.001 ⁇ M, 0.01 ⁇ M, 0.1 ⁇ M, 0.5 ⁇ M and 2 ⁇ M.
  • new medium theanine: 1, 10, 100 um
  • each supernatant was harvested and subjected to ELISA (Takara MK101) to measure the amount of produced pro-collagen.
  • the data were calculated as comparative values, referred to 100 of untreated control and the result is shown in Table 7.
  • compositions for external use comprising catechin and theanine in a predetermined mixing ratio according to Examples 10 to 13 showed excellent effect of improving skin wrinkle.
  • Nourishing creams prepared according to the compositions of Table 9 were examined for their effect to improve skin elastic.
  • 100 healthy women over 30 years old were divided into 10 groups.
  • Each group applied one of the nourishing cream of Comparative examples 2 to 7 and Examples 10 to 13 on the face twice per day at a temperature of 24-26° C. and a humidity of 75% for cream for 12 weeks and was examined for skin elasticity using Cutometer SEM 575, (C+K Electronic Co., Germany).
  • Cutometer SEM 575 (C+K Electronic Co., Germany).
  • the result is shown in Table 11.
  • the data of Table 11 are described as R8 (R8 (left)-R8 (right)) of the Cutometer SEM 575, in which RS means skin viscoelasticity.
  • Monkey kidney epithelial cell line CV-1 (ATCC CCL 70) was subcultured in a DMEM medium containing 10% fetal bovine serum treated with charcol/dextran, which was a phenol red-free medium to remove the effect by estrogen of phenol red.
  • Three different plasmids each comprising a universal promoter capable of being expressed in a general culturing conditions and having PPAR- ⁇ gene in the down stream, a universal promoter having PPRE (PPARs Response Element), which is activated by bonding to PPAR- ⁇ of ligand bonding type, and firefly luciferase gene, which functions as a reporter and a universal promoter with Renilla luciferase gene attached as a reference were used.
  • PPRE PPARs Response Element
  • CV-1 cells were distributed in a 24-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 5 ⁇ 10 4 . After 24 hours cultivation, the 3 different plasmids were transient transfected. After 24 hours cultivation, the plate was washed with 1 ⁇ PBS (Phosphate Buffered Saline) and treated with ligand candidates at various concentrations. After 24 hours cultivation, the plate was washed with 1 ⁇ PBS and the cells were lyzed with 1 ⁇ PLB (Passive Lysis Buffer) and measured for luciferase activity using Dual-Luciferase R Reporter Assay System kit.
  • 1 ⁇ PBS Phosphate Buffered Saline
  • ligand candidates at various concentrations.
  • 1 ⁇ PLB Passive Lysis Buffer
  • the positive control was Wy-14,643 which was known to be most powerful PPAR- ⁇ ligand and the negative control was ethanol which was used to dissolve the samples and non-treated group.
  • the result is shown in Table 13, with the data as comparative values referred to as 1.0 of the negative control and the non-treated group.
  • Human keratinocytes were cultured in a 12-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 10 4 .
  • the plate was irradiated by UV-B at 30 mJ/cm 2 .
  • the media were exchanged with new medium containing 10 ⁇ M of each test substance (10 ppm of extract).
  • the cells were harvested and subjected to ELISA (Pharmingen 555212) to determine the amount of produced tumor necrosis factor ⁇ (TNF- ⁇ ).
  • ELISA Pharmingen 555212
  • Wy-14,643 was used as comparative values, referred to 100 of UV control.
  • Human fibroblasts isolated from the skin of new born baby were cultured in a 48-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 10 4 . after 24 hours, the plate was irradiated by UV-A at 15 J/cm 2 and antibody against tumor necrosis factor alpha was added thereto in a concentration of 1 ug/ml. At the second day of cultivation, the supernatants were harvested and subjected to ELISA (AP biotech RPN2610) to determine the amount of produced type I collagenase. The result is shown in Table 15 as comparative values, referred to 100 of control which was not treated.
  • composition for external use on skin according to the present invention is not limited thereto.
  • composition for external use on skin comprises at least one of catechins and flavonols which are components of green tea as an active ingredient to reduce biosynthesis of gelatinase (MMP-2, MMP-9) and increase biosynthesis of type IV collagen, type VII collagen and laminin 10/11 thereby inhibiting decomposition and promoting generation of the dermis-epidermis junction and protecting the dermis-epidermis junction.
  • catechins and flavonols which are components of green tea as an active ingredient to reduce biosynthesis of gelatinase (MMP-2, MMP-9) and increase biosynthesis of type IV collagen, type VII collagen and laminin 10/11 thereby inhibiting decomposition and promoting generation of the dermis-epidermis junction and protecting the dermis-epidermis junction.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to an anti-aging composition for external use on skin, and more particularly, to an anti-aging composition for external use on skin comprising at least one of catechins and flavonols as an active ingredient to inhibit decomposition and promote generation or protection at the dermis-epidermis junction.

Description

    TECHNICAL FIELD
  • The present invention relates to an anti-aging composition for external use on skin, and more particularly, to an anti-aging composition for external use on skin comprising at least one of catechins and flavonols as an active ingredient to inhibit decomposition and promote generation or protection at the dermis-epidermis junction.
  • Also, it is possible to obtain synergy effect on anti-aging by using the green tea extract in combination with theanine.
    • BACKGROUND ART
  • The skin which is a primary barrier of the human body protects organs in the body from change of temperature and humidity and stimulation from the outer environment such as UV rays and pollutants and plays an important role for homeostasis such as regulation of body temperature. However, excessive physical and chemical stimulation from the outside, UV rays, stress and malnutrition may deteriorate normal functions of the skin and promote skin aging such as elasticity loss, keratinization and wrinkle formation. Particularly, the dermis-epidermis junction is severely damaged by UV irradiation.
  • As a result of the observation of change in the skin by aging, it has been found that the change in the structure of the dermis-epidermis junction such as multiplication and heat insulation already begins in the skin exposed to UV rays from late twenties. Therefore, it can be expected that generation of gelatinase (MMP-2, MMP-9) is induced at the epidermis of the human skin exposed to UV rays and associated with the damage of the dermis-epidermis junction. Further, in the research using mouse wrinkle model induced by UV-B irradiation for a long period of time, it has been found that gelatinase formed in the epidermis by UV-B irradiation may cause damage of the dermis-epidermis junction, damage of dermis and wrinkle formation. Meanwhile, the skin which has been seldom exposed to UV rays does not show such multiplication and heat insulation even at the advanced age.
  • Gelatinase (MMP-2, MMP-9) is an enzyme to decompose type IV collagen, type VII collagen and other extracellular matrix which are components of the dermis-epidermis junction. According to the analysis according to Gelatine zymography and Enzyme Linked Immunosorbent Assay (ELISA), MMP-2 and MMP-9 are detected in the UV-exposed epidermis. The activity of gelatinase in the skin is detected near epidermal stratum basalis and stratum spinosum in the chilled forehead skin. Moreover, gelatinase is detected in the epidermis of the UV-exposed skin such as the face. Therefore, it is believed that UV rays induce formation of gelatinase in the epidermal stratum basalis, a part of them participates in destruction of the dermis-epidermis junction and the rest stays in the epidermis and reaches the epidermis.
  • Upon examination of the wrinkle formation mechanism in the wrinkle model produced by irradiating UV rays to a mouse for a long period of time, gelatinase activity is detected throughout the epidermis in the skin exposed to UV-B for a long period of time. The damage of the dermis-epidermis junction is observed from the fifth week of UV-B irradiation and becomes severe upon the seventh and tenth week. Upon the tenth week, heat insulation is observed in the dermis barrier and multiplication is observed in a part. Upon examination of collagen fiber of the dermal mammillary portion, reduction of fiber density is observed by UV-B irradiation for a long period of time. Therefore, it has been provided that the induced gelatinase is involved in damage of the dermis-epidermis junction and collagen decomposition of the mammillary dermis.
  • When the dermis-epidermis junction is damaged, wrinkle is formed by flattering of the junction, multiplication and heat insulation, and the skin is sagged and is apt to be damaged. Also, by the loss of the characteristic barrier function, the dermis-epidermis junction fails to filter pollutants from the outer environment, whereby noxious materials can readily infiltrate to the dermis and the skin can be damaged. In order to recover the damaged dermis-epidermis junction or maintain it at the healthy state, its components should be maintained as they are. The components which is known that whose biosynthesis is decreased, as the age increases, are type IV collagen, type VII collagen and laminin 10/11. Laminin 5 does not shown change while the components whose biosynthesis is increased are gelatinase (MMP-2 and MMP-9) which is known to be associated with decomposition (Lavker et. Al. J. Invest. Derm. 1979, 73:59-65, Pouliot et. Al. Exp. Dermatol. 2002, 11:387-397).
  • In order to prevent the skin aging by UV irradiation and outer stress and maintain healthy and elastic skin, there have been efforts to maintain peculiar function of the skin and activate skin cells to effectively inhibit the skin aging by using cosmetic composition supplemented with physiological activating materials obtained from animals, plants and microorganisms.
    • DISCLOSURE Technical Problem
  • Accordingly, the present inventors have searched a method for effectively controlling various factors affecting skin aging and found that various change of the junction between the dermis and epidermis caused by natural aging and photo-aging, including degeneration, heat insulation and multiplication, can be prevented or recovered by using a composition for external use on skin comprising at least one of catechins and flavonols which are extracted from green tea. Thus, it has been confirmed that catechins or flavonols from the green tea extract can inhibit the decomposition and promote the generation at the dermis-epidermis junction, thereby strengthening the bonding between the dermis and the epidermis, whereby they can be used in cosmetic preparations and pharmaceutical compositions for anti-aging.
  • Also, it has been found that if theanine is combined into the components from the green tea extract, even when the green tea extract is mixed with theanine at a low concentration, the combination can show high anti-aging effect without side effects on the skin. On the basis of the above findings, the present invention has been completed.
  • Therefore, it is an object of the present invention to provide a composition for external use on skin with excellent anti-aging effect.
    • Technical Solution
  • To accomplish the above objects of the present invention, according to the present invention, there is provided a composition for external use on skin with excellent anti-aging effect comprising at least one of catechins and flavonols as an active ingredient.
  • Also, in another embodiment of the present invention, there is provided a composition for external use on skin with excellent anti-aging effect comprising theanine in addition to the above-described components from the green tea extract as an active ingredient.
    • ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS
  • The composition for external use on skin according to the present invention comprising at least one of catechins and flavonols of the green tea extract as an active ingredient can reduce biosynthesis of gelatinase (MMP-2, MMP-9) and increase biosynthesis of type IV collagen, type VII collagen and laminin 10/11 to inhibit the decomposition and promote the generation at the dermis-epidermis junction, thereby protect the dermis-epidermis junction.
    • DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS
  • Further objects and advantages of the invention can be more fully understood from the following detailed description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawing, in which:
  • FIG. 1 is a graph showing the result of the measurement of MMP-1 biosynthesis by various test samples.
    •  BEST MODE
  • The composition for external use on skin according to the present invention comprises at least one of catechins and flavonols from the green tea extract as an active ingredient.
  • The catechins used according to the present invention is extracted from green tea and includes epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate (GCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG), catechin gallate (CG), epigallocatechin (EGC), gallocatechin (GC), (−)epicatechin (EC), (+)epicatechin (EC), (−)catechin (CA) and (+)catechin (CA), with preference being epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate (GCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG) and catechin gallate (CG) expressed by the following formulae 1 to 4.
  • Figure US20090012155A1-20090108-C00001
  • Also, the flavonols used according to the present invention is extracted from green tea and includes quercetin, kaempferol and myricetin, with preference being kaempferol and myricetin, more preference being myricetin.
  • The composition for external use according to the present invention comprises 0.001 to 10 wt %, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt % of the active ingredient, based on the total weight of the composition. If the content is less than 0.001 wt %, it is difficult to expect significant effects, while if the content excesses 10 wt %, it is impossible to formulate the composition.
  • According to another aspect, there is provided a composition for external use on skin further comprising theanine as an active ingredient, in addition to the component from the green tea extract.
  • Theanine is one of amino acids giving savory taste of green tea and has effect of inhibiting excitation caused by caffeine. In fact, it has been observed that human bodies intaking theanine shows increase in a wave appearance showing stabilized and tranquil state of mind (Nippon Nogeikagaku Kaishi, 1998, 72 (2): 153-157). The theanine used according to the present invention may be one selected from L-form which is extracted from green tea, and L-theanine, D-theanine and DL-theanine which are chemically synthesized, or may be prepared other methods.
  • When the composition for external use on skin according to the present invention comprises theanine in combination with at least one of catechins and flavonols from the green tea extract, it is possible to effectively and generally improve several symptoms such as wrinkle and sagging. Particularly, the content of at least one of catechins and flavonols from the green tea extract in the composition is determined from the result of in vitro experiments and in vivo experiments and is preferably 0.0004 to 0.025 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition. Here, if the content is less than 0.0004 wt % the component cannot act as an effective ingredient, while if the content excesses 0.025 wt % the improvement of the symptoms is rather deteriorated.
  • Also, the content of theanine is determined from the result of in vitro experiments and in vivo experiments and is preferably 0.008 to 2.5 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition. Here, if the content is less than 0.008 wt %, the component cannot act as an effective ingredient, while if the content excesses 2.5 wt % the improvement of the symptoms is rather deteriorated.
  • Further, the composition for external use on skin according to the present invention comprises the green tea extract and theanine in a predetermined mixing ratio. Thus, when the composition contains 0.0004 to 0.025 wt % of the green tea extract, catechin to theanine is 1:20 to 1:100 for optimal anti-aging effect of skin.
  • The composition for external use on skin according to the present invention prevent and improve skin aging through promotion of collagen synthesis, improvement skin elasticity and improvement of skin wrinkles.
  • Also, the composition for external use on skin according to the present invention activates peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-alpha (PPAR-α) to inhibit tumor necrosis factor α (TNF-α) and biosynthesis of MMP-1, thereby inhibiting skin aging.
  • Peroxisome is one of organelles providing causes of abnormal metabolic functions leading hyperlipidemia, diabetes and obesity. For a long time, this organelle has been considered to play a tiny role in the cell. However, according to many recent studies, it has been reported that it plays very important role in control of cell multiplication/differentiation, control of inflammatory mediators and the like and widely affects metabolism of oxygen, glucose, lipid and hormones. It has been found that peroxisome affects the formation of the cell membrane and adipocyte as well as insulin sensitivity, through lipid metabolism and glucose metabolism and plays an important role in aging and tumorigenesis through action on oxidative stress (J Cutan Med Sirg 5 (3):231-43, 2001, J Cutan Med Sirg 5 (4):315-22, 2001).
  • The intensive research on the above-described part for the last 10 years has presented several evidences that peroxisome proliferator-activated receptos (PPARs), hereinafter referred to as ‘PPAR’), a nuclear hormone receptor would be a good target for pharmacological approach for above-described diseases. According to the resent studies, PPARs, particularly PPAR-α, a one of subtypes, play critical roles in promotion of differentiation/inhibition of multiplication of keratinocyte, promotion of dermal barriers through lipid metabolism and inhibition of inflammation at epidermis of skin and inhibit inflammatory mediators formation of PPAR-α and erythema formation by UV irradiation (JID 117 (6):1430-6, 2001).
  • The present inventors have exams general information on biology of these PPARs and effects and working mechanism of PPAR-α on skin, particularly relation with skin aging to find a ligand capable of inducing activation. As a result, it has been found that by using the composition for external use on skin according to the present invention, it is possible to inhibit inflammation induced by natural aging and photo-aging, thereby preventing or recovering skin aging. Thus, it has been proved that the composition for external use according to the present invention can inhibit expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1, an enzyme to decompose the dermis by inflammation inhibiting mechanism through activation of PPAR-α.
  • The composition for external use according to the present invention is not particularly limited in its formulation but may be cosmetic compositions including, for example, skin softener, skin lotion, massage cream, nourishing cream, pack, gel or skin adhesive type cosmetic formulations, or transdermal formulations such as lotion, ointment, gel, cream, patch or spray.
  • Also, the composition for external use in various formulation types may comprise the above-described essential components in combination with other components which may be selected by the workers in the art without any difficulty according to the formulation type or the purpose of use.
    • MODE FOR INVENTION
  • Now, the construction and effect of the present invention will be explained in detail by Examples and Experimental examples. However, it should be understood that these examples are only for explanation and the present invention is not limited thereto.
    • REFERENCE EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of Green Tea Extract 1
  • 100 g of dried green tea leaves was taken into 10 times ethanol for 12 to 15 hours at ambient temperature for extraction, followed by filtration through filter paper. The filtrate was concentrated at 50° C. at reduced pressure.
    • REFERENCE EXAMPLE 2 Preparation of Green Tea Extract 2
  • 100 g of dried green tea leaves was taken into 10 times ethanol for 12 to 15 hours at ambient temperature for extraction, followed by filtration through filter paper. The filtrate was concentrated at 50° C. at reduced pressure.
    • EXPERIMENTAL EXAMPLE 1 Measurement of Inhibiting Effect on Biosynthesis of Gelatinase A (MMP-9) and Gelatinase B (MMP-2) by UV Irradiation
  • Human keratinocytes were cultured in a 24-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 104. After 24 hours, the plate was irradiated by UV-B at 30 mJ/cm2. The media were exchanged with new medium containing 10 ppm of each test substance. After 2 days of cultivation, each supernatant was harvested and subjected to the zymography using gelatine gel to obtain produced MMP-2 and MMP-9, quantities of which were then measured by a densitometer. The data were calculated as comparative values, referred to 100 of UV control and the result is shown in Table 1.
  • TABLE 1
    Ingredients MMP-2 (%) MMP-9 (%)
    Myricetin 51 55
    EGCG 52 56
    GCG 53 56
    CG 53 55
    Green tea extract 1 48 49
    Green tea extract 2 61 62
    Green tea catechin extract 1 55 59
    Green tea catechin extract 2 62 60
    Control 100 100
  • From the result of Table 1, it was confirmed that the active ingredient used as an active ingredient in the present invention, myricetin, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate (GCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG), catechin gallate (CG), green tea catechin extract and green tea extract reduced biosynthesis of MMP-2 and MMP-9, enzymes to decompose type IV collagen and type VII collagen of dermal matrix, thereby preventing decomposition of the dermis-epidermis junction.
    • EXPERIMENTAL EXAMPLE 2 Measurement of Effect on Biosynthesis of Type IV Collagen in Dermal Cell
  • Human keratinocytes were cultured in a 24-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 5×104. The media were exchanged with new medium containing 10 ppm of each test substance. After 24 hours of cultivation, each supernatant was harvested and subjected to the Dot Blot method to measure the amount of produced type IV collagen. The data were calculated as comparative values, referred to 100 of UV control and the result is shown in Table 2.
  • TABLE 2
    Type IV collagen
    biosynthesis
    Ingredients (%)
    Myricetin 139
    EGCG 138
    GCG 135
    CG 134
    Green tea extract 1 140
    Green tea extract 2 139
    Green tea catechin extract 1 145
    Green tea catechin extract 2 143
    Control 100
  • From the result of Table 2, it was confirmed that the active ingredient used as an active ingredient in the present invention, myricetin, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate (GCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG), catechin gallate (CG), green tea catechin extract and green tea extract increased biosynthesis of type IV collagen.
    • EXPERIMENTAL EXAMPLE 3 Measurement of Effect on Biosynthesis of Type VII Collagen in Dermal Cell
  • Human fibroblasts were cultured in a 24-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 104. The media were exchanged with new medium containing 10 ppm of each test substance. After 24 hours of cultivation, each supernatant was harvested and subjected to the Dot Blot method to measure the amount of produced type VII collagen. The data were calculated as comparative values, referred to 100 of UV control and the result is shown in Table 3.
  • TABLE 3
    type VII collagen
    Ingredients biosynthesis (%)
    Myricetin 125
    EGCG 127
    GCG 121
    CG 124
    Green tea extract 1 132
    Green tea extract 2 128
    Green tea catechin extract 1 131
    Green tea catechin extract 2 127
    Control 100
  • From the result of Table 3, it was confirmed that the active ingredient used as an active ingredient in the present invention, myricetin, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate (GCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG), catechin gallate (CG), green tea catechin extract and green tea extract increased biosynthesis of type VII collagen.
    • EXPERIMENTAL EXAMPLE 4 Measurement of Effect on Biosynthesis of Laminin 10/11 in Dermal Cell
  • Human keratinocytes were cultured in a 24-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 5×104. The media were exchanged with new medium containing 10 ppm of each test substance. After 24 hours of cultivation, each supernatant was harvested and subjected to the Western Blot method to measure the amount of produced laminin 10/11. The data were calculated as comparative values, referred to 100 of UV control and the result is shown in Table 4.
  • TABLE 4
    laminin 10/11
    Ingredients biosynthesis (%)
    Myricetin 132
    EGCG 137
    GCG 131
    CG 129
    Green tea extract 1 137
    Green tea extract 2 133
    Green tea catechin extract 1 139
    Green tea catechin extract 2 142
    Control 100
  • From the result of Table 4, it was confirmed that the active ingredient used as an active ingredient in the present invention, myricetin, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate (GCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG), catechin gallate (CG), green tea catechin extract and green tea extract increased biosynthesis of laminin 10/11.
    • EXPERIMENTAL EXAMPLE 5 Measurement of Change at Dermis-Epidermis Junction in Nude Mouse
  • In order to confirm the change at the dermis-epidermis junction by UV irradiation after use of the composition according to the present invention, Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative example 1 were prepared in a nourishing cream formulation as shown in Table 5 and applied on the back of a nude mouse 5 times per week for 2 weeks. Then, the formulations were applied 5 times on the back while the back was irradiated with UV 3 times per week for 12 weeks. Through biopsy, the change at the dermis-epidermis junction was examined using an electron microscope.
  • TABLE 5
    Com.
    Example Ex.
    Ingredients (wt %) 1 1-1 1-2 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1
    Purified water Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal.
    Myricetin 0.1 0.2 0.5 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 —
    EGCG — — — 0.1 — — — — — — 0.1 —
    GCG — — — — 0.1 — — — — — 0.1 —
    CG — — — — — 0.1 — — — — — —
    Green tea extract 1 — — — — — — 0.1 — — — — —
    Green tea extract 2 — — — — — — — 0.1 — — — —
    Green tea catechin extract 1 — — — — — — — — 0.1 — — —
    Green tea catechin extract 2 — — — — — — — — — 0.1 — —
    Hydrogenated vegetable oil 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50
    Stearic acid 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60
    Glycerol stearate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
    Steary alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
    Polyglyceril-10/penta 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
    stearate/behenyl alcohol/
    sodium stearoyl lactylate
    Arakidyl behenyl alcohol/ 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
    arakidyl glucoside
    Cetylaryl alcohol/cetelaryl 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
    glucoside
    PEG-100 stearate/ 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50
    glycerololate/propylene
    glycol
    Caprylic and capric 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00
    triglyceride
    Cyclomedicone 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00
    Preservative, flavor * * * * * * * * * * * *
    Triethanol amine 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
    Bal.: balance,
    *: suitable amount
  • As a result, when the cosmetic formulations of Examples 1-9 were applied along with UV irradiation, there was hardly observed deformation, separation, isolation and multiplication at the dermis-epidermis junction, as compared to Comparative example. From the result, it was confirmed that the active ingredient used as an active ingredient in the present invention, myricetin, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate (GCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG), catechin gallate (CG), green tea catechin extract and green tea extract reduce wrinkles on skin and strengthen elasticity and the result is shown in Table 6.
  • Particularly, when myricetin is used in combination with epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate (GCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG), catechin gallate (CG), green tea catechin extract and green tea extract, the effect was better, as compared to the case when myricetin is used alone. Also, it was more preferable to use myricetin at a low concentration in combination with catechin, as compared to the case when it is used alone at a high concentration.
  • TABLE 6
    Change at the dermis-epidermis junction
    Example Com. Ex.
    1 1-1 1-2 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1
    Multiplication + + + + +/− +/− +/− +/− +/− +/− +/− ++++
    Heat insulation + + + + +/− +/− +/− +/− +/− +/− +/− ++++
    +/−: no change,
    +: little,
    ++: mild,
    +++: significant,
    ++++: very significant
    • EXPERIMENTAL EXAMPLE 6 Measurement of Effect on Biosynthesis of Collagen in Dermal Cell
  • Human fibroblasts were cultured in a 48-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 104. The media were exchanged with new medium (theanine: 1, 10, 100 um) containing each test substance of Table 7 at a concentration of 0.001 μM, 0.01 μM, 0.1 μM, 0.5 μM and 2 μM. After 48 hours of cultivation, each supernatant was harvested and subjected to ELISA (Takara MK101) to measure the amount of produced pro-collagen. The data were calculated as comparative values, referred to 100 of untreated control and the result is shown in Table 7.
  • TABLE 7
    Collagen
    Concentration biosynthesis
    (−) EGCG 0.001 μM 101.4
    0.01 μM 154.6
    0.1 μM 133.8
    0.5 μM 155.8
    2 μM 78.4
    (−) GCG 0.001 μM 98.9
    0.01 μM 138.3
    0.1 μM 147.0
    0.5 μM 157.1
    2 μM 75.2
    (−) ECG 0.001 μM 100.5
    0.01 μM 181.7
    0.1 μM 165.3
    0.5 μM 124.5
    2 μM 77.8
    (−) CG 0.001 μM 104.3
    0.01 μM 118.5
    0.1 μM 124.9
    0.5 μM 118.9
    2 μM 80.3
    Theanine 1 μM 13.5
    10 μM 132.1
    100 μM 167.5
  • From the result of Table 7, it was confirmed that catechin or theanine increased biosynthesis of collagen even at a low concentration.
  • Also, in order to examine the synergic effect of theanine on collagen biosynthesis, theanine 10 μM was added to catechin at different 4 concentrations and the result is shown in Table 8.
  • TABLE 8
    Catechin Collagen
    concentration biosynthesis
    (−)EGCG + theanine 10 μM 0.01 μM 157.1
    0.1 μM 164.6
    0.5 μM 168.1
    1 μM 132.4
    (−)GCG + theanine 10 μM 0.01 μM 158.0
    0.1 μM 167.5
    0.5 μM 165.8
    1 μM 142.3
    (−) ECG + theanine 10 μM 0.01 μM 166.3
    0.1 μM 180.4
    0.5 μM 178.2
    1 μM 122.4
    (−)CG + theanine 10 μM 0.01 μM 120.7
    0.1 μM 144.7
    0.5 μM 148.0
    1 μM 113.2
  • From the result of Table 8, it was confirmed that the optimal concentration of catechin to theanine 10 μM was 0.1 to 0.5 μM and thus, the optimal content ratio of catechin to theanine was 1:20 to 1:100.
    • EXPERIMENTAL EXAMPLE 7 Improvement of Wrinkles in Human
  • In order to confirm the improvement effect of nourishing cream prepared according to the compositions of Comparative examples 2 to 7 and Examples 10 to 13 in Table 9, the following procedures were performed. 100 women in thirties were classified into 10 groups of 10 members and each was treated with the formulations of Comparative examples 2 to 7 and Examples 10 to 13. Replicas were taken using silicone and the wrinkle state was assayed on a visiometer (SV600, Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany). The result is shown in Table 10. The values of Table 10 are averages of the difference between parameters of after application for 8 weeks and before application.
  • TABLE 9
    Ingredients Com. Com. Com. Com. Com. Com.
    (content; wt %) Ex. 10 Ex. 11 Ex. 12 Ex. 13 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7
    Purified water Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal.
    (−)EGCG 0.0025 — — — 0.1 — — — 0.5 —
    (−)GCG — 0.0004 — — — 0.5 — — — 1
    (−)ECG — — 0.002 — — — 0.1 — —
    (−)CG — — — 0.025 — — — 0.1 —
    theanine 0.01 0.01 0.1 2.5 0.01 0.01 0.1 5.0 5.0 5.0
    Hydrogenated 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50
    vegetable oil
    Stearic acid 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60
    Glycerol stearate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
    Stearyl alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
    Polyglyceril- 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
    10/penta stearate/
    behenyl alcohol/
    sodium stearoyl
    lactylate
    Arakidyl behenyl 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
    alcohol/
    arakidyl glucoside
    Cetylaryl 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
    alcohol/cetelaryl
    glucoside
    PEG-100 stearate/ 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50
    glycerololate/
    propylene glycol
    Caprylic and capric 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00 11.00
    triglyceride
    Cyclomedicone 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00
    Preservative, flavor * * * * * * * * * *
    Triethanol amine 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
    Bal.: balance,
    *: suitable amount
  • TABLE 10
    Result after
    application for 8
    weeks R1 R2 R3 R4 R5
    Ex. 10 −0.23 −0.24 −0.16 −0.06 −0.04
    Ex. 11 −0.22 −0.23 −0.15 −0.04 −0.05
    Ex. 12 −0.24 −0.25 −0.18 −0.06 −0.04
    Ex. 13 −0.25 −0.24 −0.18 −0.05 −0.03
    Com. Ex. 2 −0.16 −0.18 −0.13 −0.04 −0.03
    Com. Ex. 3 −0.16 −0.17 −0.12 −0.06 −0.03
    Com. Ex. 4 −0.15 −0.15 −0.13 −0.02 −0.04
    Com. Ex. 5 −0.16 −0.16 −0.12 −0.04 −0.03
    Com. Ex. 6 −0.05 −0.08 −0.12 −0.06 −0.04
    Com. Ex. 7 −0.08 −0.10 −0.11 −0.05 −0.03
    * R1: difference between the highest value and the lowest value of the wrinkle contour line,
    R2: average of 5 R1 values of the wrinkle contour line randomly divided into 5 portions,
    R3: the highest value of the 5 R1 values,
    R4: average of the difference between the peak and the valley on the baseline of the wrinkle contour line,
    R5: difference between the baseline of the wrinkle contour line and the wrinkle contour
  • As shown in Table 10, it was confirmed that the compositions for external use comprising catechin and theanine in a predetermined mixing ratio according to Examples 10 to 13 showed excellent effect of improving skin wrinkle.
    • EXPERIMENTAL EXAMPLE 8 Improvement of Skin Elasticity in the Human Body
  • Nourishing creams prepared according to the compositions of Table 9 were examined for their effect to improve skin elastic. 100 healthy women over 30 years old were divided into 10 groups. Each group applied one of the nourishing cream of Comparative examples 2 to 7 and Examples 10 to 13 on the face twice per day at a temperature of 24-26° C. and a humidity of 75% for cream for 12 weeks and was examined for skin elasticity using Cutometer SEM 575, (C+K Electronic Co., Germany). The result is shown in Table 11. The data of Table 11 are described as R8 (R8 (left)-R8 (right)) of the Cutometer SEM 575, in which RS means skin viscoelasticity.
  • Separately, the members of the groups were asked to answer a questionnaire for subjective estimation in addition to the mechanical evaluation. The result is shown in Table 12.
  • TABLE 11
    Tested
    composition Skin elasticity
    Example 10 0.38
    Example 11 0.44
    Example 12 0.42
    Example 13 0.44
    Com. Ex. 2 0.35
    Com. Ex. 3 0.33
    Com. Ex. 4 0.32
    Com. Ex. 5 0.36
    Com. Ex. 6 0.29
    Com. Ex. 7 0.30
  • TABLE 12
    Number of respondents
    Test group Very good Good Fair Poor
    Example 10 4 3 2 1
    Example 11 4 4 1 1
    Example 12 4 3 3 0
    Example 13 3 5 1 1
    Com. Ex. 2 1 1 6 2
    Com. Ex. 3 1 2 4 3
    Com. Ex. 4 0 3 4 3
    Com. Ex. 5 1 2 5 2
    Com. Ex. 6 1 1 4 3
    Com. Ex. 7 1 1 5 3
  • As shown in Table 11, the groups treated with the compositions of Examples 10 to 13 comprising catechin and theanine at a low concentration showed more increase in the skin elasticity, as compared to the group treated with the composition of Comparative example.
  • Meanwhile, it was confirmed through the questionnaire that the skin elasticity was improved by application of the compositions of Examples 10 to 13 according to the present invention.
    • EXPERIMENTAL EXAMPLE 9 Test of Activation of PPAR-α (Peroxisome Proliferator Activated Receptor-Alpha) Playing a Role in Promotion of Differentiation/Inhibition of Multiplication of Dermal Cells and Promotion of Lipid Biosynthesis and Prevention of Inflammation
  • Monkey kidney epithelial cell line CV-1 (ATCC CCL 70) was subcultured in a DMEM medium containing 10% fetal bovine serum treated with charcol/dextran, which was a phenol red-free medium to remove the effect by estrogen of phenol red. Three different plasmids, each comprising a universal promoter capable of being expressed in a general culturing conditions and having PPAR-α gene in the down stream, a universal promoter having PPRE (PPARs Response Element), which is activated by bonding to PPAR-α of ligand bonding type, and firefly luciferase gene, which functions as a reporter and a universal promoter with Renilla luciferase gene attached as a reference were used.
  • CV-1 cells were distributed in a 24-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 5×104. After 24 hours cultivation, the 3 different plasmids were transient transfected. After 24 hours cultivation, the plate was washed with 1×PBS (Phosphate Buffered Saline) and treated with ligand candidates at various concentrations. After 24 hours cultivation, the plate was washed with 1×PBS and the cells were lyzed with 1×PLB (Passive Lysis Buffer) and measured for luciferase activity using Dual-LuciferaseR Reporter Assay System kit.
  • In this experiment, the positive control was Wy-14,643 which was known to be most powerful PPAR-α ligand and the negative control was ethanol which was used to dissolve the samples and non-treated group. The result is shown in Table 13, with the data as comparative values referred to as 1.0 of the negative control and the non-treated group.
  • TABLE 13
    Activity of PPAR-α
    PPAR-α activity
    Test substances 10 μM 100 μM
    (−) EGCG 1.0 1.5
    (−) GCG 1.1 2.3
    (−) ECG 1.1 1.6
    (−) CG 1.2 1.6
    (−) EGC 1.3 1.0
    (−) GC 1.1 1.0
    (−) EC 1.2 1.2
    (+) EC 1.3 1.2
    (−) C 1.4 1.2
    (+) C 1.5 1.4
    Gallic acid 1.3 1.7
    Caffeine 1.3 1.6
    Quercetin 1.7 2.3
    Kaempferol 1.7 1.4
    Theobromine 2.2 4.5
    Theophylline 1.4 1.7
    Theanine 1.8 1.9
    Rutin hydrate 1.6 1.3
    Quinic acid 1.3 1.7
    Myricetin 1.7 1.6
    Green tea extract 1 1.7 3.2
    Green tea extract 2 1.7 2.3
    Catechin extract 1 1.7 4.6
    Catechin extract 2 1.9 4.8
    Positive control 0.1 μM 1 μM 10 μM
    1.5 2.6 3.8
  • From the above result, among the various components of green tea, green tea extract 1, green tea extract 2, catechin extract 1, catechin extract 2, gallocatechin gallate ((−) GCG), theobromine and quercetin showed significant activation of PPAR-α. (−)EGCG, (−)ECG, (−)CG, (+)C, gallic acid, caffeine, kaempferol, theophylline, theanine, quinic acid and myricetin were followed.
    • EXPERIMENTAL EXAMPLE 10 Measurement of Inhibition Effect on Biosynthesis of Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha (TNF-α) by UV Irradiation
  • Human keratinocytes were cultured in a 12-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 104. The plate was irradiated by UV-B at 30 mJ/cm2. The media were exchanged with new medium containing 10 μM of each test substance (10 ppm of extract). After 6 to 24 hours of cultivation, the cells were harvested and subjected to ELISA (Pharmingen 555212) to determine the amount of produced tumor necrosis factor α (TNF-α). As the positive control, Wy-14,643 was used. The result is shown in Table 14 as comparative values, referred to 100 of UV control.
  • TABLE 14
    TNF-α
    Test substances biosynthesis
    (10 μM) (%)
    (−) EGCG 35
    (−) GCG 27
    (−) ECG 32
    (−) CG 37
    (+) C 40
    Gallic acid 36
    Caffeine 39
    Quercetin 27
    Kaempferol 41
    Theobromine 25
    Theophylline 36
    Theanine 30
    Quinic acid 35
    Myricetin 36
    Positive control 30
    Green tea extract 1 25
    Green tea extract 2 30
    Catechin extract 1 15
    Catechin extract 2 12
  • From the result of Table 14, it was confirmed that the green tea extract, the catechin extract and each component of green tea reduced biosynthesis of tumor necrosis factor alpha by UV irradiation, thereby effectively preventing or improving dermal inflammation, reduction of dermal matrix material, deterioration of elasticity and wrinkle formation which may caused by UV irradiation.
    • EXPERIMENTAL EXAMPLE 11 Measurement of Inhibition Effect on Biosynthesis of Type I Collagenase (MMP-1) by UV Irradiation
  • Human fibroblasts isolated from the skin of new born baby were cultured in a 48-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 104. after 24 hours, the plate was irradiated by UV-A at 15 J/cm2 and antibody against tumor necrosis factor alpha was added thereto in a concentration of 1 ug/ml. At the second day of cultivation, the supernatants were harvested and subjected to ELISA (AP biotech RPN2610) to determine the amount of produced type I collagenase. The result is shown in Table 15 as comparative values, referred to 100 of control which was not treated.
  • TABLE 15
    Treatment group No-Antibody treated group TNF-α treated group
    UV-A irradiated 210 134
    group
    TNF-α treated 250 —
    group
    Control 100 100
  • From the result of Table 15, it was confirmed that biosynthesis of type I collagenase was increased upon treatment of UV-A and the inflammatory mediator TNF-α and the increase of type I collagenase by UV irradiation was decreased upon treatment of antibody against TNF-α. Thus, it was confirmed when the inflammatory mediator TNF-α was increased by UV-A irradiation, type I collagenase was increased, while when the inflammatory mediator was blocked, the biosynthesis of type I collagenase was decreased.
  • When fibroblasts from a new born baby were treated with the following test substances, PPAR-α activators, the biosynthesis of type I collagenase was decreased, which was recovered upon treatment of the inflammatory mediator TNF-α.
  • To describe the experiment method in detail, human fibroblasts isolated from the skin of a new born baby were cultured in a 48-well plate type incubator at a concentration of 104. After 24 hours, the plate was irradiated by UV-A at 15 J/cm2. The media were exchanged with new medium containing 10 μM or 10 ppm of each test substance and TNF-α was added thereto in an amount of 10 ng/mL. At the second day of cultivation, the supernatants were harvested and subjected to ELISA (AP biotech RPN2610) to determine the amount of produced type I collagenase. As the positive control, Wy-14,643 and retinoic acid (RA) were used. The result is shown in Table 16 as comparative values, referred to 100 of negative control irradiated with UV.
  • TABLE 16
    Type I collagenase
    Test substances biosynthesis (%)
    (10 ppm) UV-A irradiated group UV-A + TNF-α treated group
    (−) EGCG 42 88
    (−) GCG 43 86
    (−) ECG 45 87
    (−) CG 53 89
    (+) C 45 86
    Gallic acid 52 89
    Caffeine 58 91
    Quercetin 35 91
    Kaempferol 48 94
    Theobromine 32 90
    Theophylline 40 92
    Theanine 60 95
    Quinic acid 75 98
    Myricetin 52 97
    RA 48 86
    Wy14643 60 92
    Green tea extract1 39 88
    Green tea extract2 44 89
    Catechin 1 38 87
    Catechin 2 40 89
    Negative control 100 124
  • From the result of Table 16 and FIG. 1, it was confirmed that the green tea extract and each component of green tea reduced biosynthesis of type IV collagenase by UV irradiation, which was caused by decrease of biosynthesis of inflammatory mediators by activation of PPAR-α.
  • Now, concrete formulations of the anti-aging composition for external use on skin according to the present invention will be described. However, the composition for external use on skin according to the present invention is not limited thereto.
  • [Formulation 1] Skin Softener (Skin Lotion)
  • TABLE 17
    Ingredients wt %
    Purified water Balance
    Myricetin 0.1
    Butylene glycol 2.0
    Propylene glycol 2.0
    Carboxyvinylpolymer 0.1
    PEG-12 nonylphenyl ether 0.2
    Polysorbate 80 0.4
    Ethanol 10.0 
    Triethanol amine 0.1
    Preservative, pigment, flavor Suitable amount
  • [Formulation 2] Skin Lotion (Milk Lotion)
  • TABLE 18
    Ingredients wt %
    Purified water Balance
    Myricetin 0.1
    Green tea extract 0.1
    Beeswax 4.0
    Polysorbate 60 1.5
    Sorbitan Sesquiolate 1.5
    Liquid paraffin 0.5
    Caprylic and capric triglyceride 5.0
    Glycerine 3.0
    Butylene glycol 3.0
    Propylene glycol 3.0
    Carboxyvinylpolymer 0.1
    Triethanol amine 0.2
    Preservative, pigment, flavor Suitable amount
  • [Formulation 3] Nourishing Cream
  • TABLE 19
    Ingredients wt %
    Purified water Balance
    Myricetin 0.1
    Green tea catechin 0.1
    Beeswax 10.0 
    Polysorbate 60 1.5
    PEG 60 hydrogenated castor oil 2.0
    Sorbitan Sesquiolate 0.5
    Liquid paraffin 10.0 
    Squalane 5.0
    Caprylic and capric triglyceride 5.0
    Glycerine 5.0
    Putylene glycol 3.0
    Propylene glycol 3.0
    Triethanol amine 0.2
    Preservative, pigment, flavor Suitable amount
  • [Formulation 4] Massage Cream
  • TABLE 20
    Ingredients wt %
    Purified water Balance
    Myricetin 0.1
    epicatechin gallate (ECG) 0.1
    Beeswax 10.0 
    Polysorbate 60 1.5
    PEG 60 hydrogenated castor oil 2.0
    Sorbitan Sesquiolate 0.8
    Liquid paraffin 40.0 
    Squalane 5.0
    Caprylic and capric triglyceride 4.0
    Glycerine 5.0
    Butylene glycol 3.0
    Propylene glycol 3.0
    Triethanol amine 0.2
    Preservative, pigment, flavor Suitable amount
  • [Formulation 5] Pack
  • TABLE 21
    Ingredients wt %
    Purified water Balance
    Myricetin 0.1
    Catechin gallate (CG) 0.1
    Polyvinyl alcohol 13.0 
    Sodium carboxymethyl cellulose 0.2
    Glycerine 5.0
    Allantoin 0.1
    Ethanol 6.0
    PEG-12 nonylphenyl ether 0.3
    Polysorbate 60 0.3
    Preservative, pigment, flavor Suitable amount
  • [Formulation 6] Skin Softener (Skin Lotion)
  • TABLE 22
    Ingredients Content (wt %)
    Purified water To 100
    Green tea catechin 0.0025
    Theanine 1
    Butylene glycol 2.0
    Propylene glycol 2.0
    Carboxyvinylpolymer 0.1
    PEG-12 nonylphenyl ether 0.2
    Polysorbate 80 0.4
    Ethanol 10.0
    Triethanol amine 0.1
    Preservative, pigment, flavor Suitable amount
  • [Formulation 7] Skin Lotion (Milk Lotion)
  • TABLE 23
    Ingredients Content (wt %)
    Purified water To 100
    Green teacatechin 0.0025
    Theanine 1
    Beeswax 4.0
    Polysorbate 60 1.5
    Sorbitan Sesquiolate 1.5
    Liquid paraffin 0.5
    Caprylic and capric triglyceride 5.0
    Glycerine 3.0
    Butylene glycol 3.0
    Propylene glycol 3.0
    Carboxyvinylpolymer 0.1
    Triethanol amine 0.2
    Preservative, pigment, flavor Suitable amount
  • [Formulation 8] Nourishing Cream
  • TABLE 24
    Ingredients Content (wt %)
    Purified water To 100
    Green tea catechin 0.0025
    Theanine 1
    Beeswax 10.0
    Polysorbate 60 1.5
    PEG 60 hydrogenated castor oil 2.0
    Sorbitan Sesquiolate 0.5
    Liquid paraffin 10.0
    Squalane 5.0
    Caprylic and capric triglyceride 5.0
    Glycerine 5.0
    Butylene glycol 3.0
    Propylene glycol 3.0
    Triethanol amine 0.2
    Preservative, pigment, flavor Suitable amount
  • [Formulation 9] Massage Cream
  • TABLE 25
    Ingredients Content (wt %)
    Purified water To 100
    Green tea catechin 0.0025
    Theanine 1
    Beeswax 10.0
    Polysorbate 60 1.5
    PEG 60 hydrogenated castor oil 2.0
    Sorbitan Sesquiolate 0.8
    Liquid paraffin 40.0
    Squalane 5.0
    Caprylic and capric triglyceride 4.0
    Glycerine 5.0
    Butylene glycol 3.0
    Propylene glycol 3.0
    Triethanol amine 0.2
    Preservative, pigment, flavor Suitable amount
  • [Formulation 10] Pack
  • TABLE 26
    Ingredients Content (wt %)
    Purified water To 100
    Green tea catechin 0.0025
    Theanine 1
    Polyvinyl alcohol 13.0
    Sodium carboxymethyl cellulose 0.2
    Glycerine 5.0
    Allantoin 0.1
    Ethanol 6.0
    PEG-12 nonylphenyl ether 0.3
    Polysorbate 60 0.3
    Preservative, pigment, flavor Suitable amount
  • [Formulation 11] Skin Softener (Skin Lotion)
  • TABLE 27
    Ingredients wt %
    Purified water Balance
    Epigallocatechin (EGCG) 0.1
    Butylene glycol 2.0
    Propylene glycol 2.0
    Carboxyvinylpolymer 0.1
    PEG-12 nonylphenyl ether 0.2
    Polysorbate 80 0.4
    Ethanol 10.0 
    Triethanol amine 0.1
    Preservative, pigment, flavor Suitable amount
  • [Formulation 12] Skin Lotion (Milk Lotion)
  • TABLE 28
    Ingredients wt %
    Purified water Balance
    Green tea extract 0.1
    Beeswax 4.0
    Polysorbate 60 1.5
    Sorbitan Sesquiolate 1.5
    Liquid paraffin 0.5
    Caprylic and capric triglyceride Suitable amount
  • [Formulation 13] Nourishing Cream
  • TABLE 29
    Ingredients wt %
    Purified water Balance
    Kaempferol 0.1
    Beeswax 10.0 
    Polysorbate 60 1.5
    PEG 60 hydrogenated castor oil 2.0
    Sorbitan Sesquiolate 0.5
    Liquid paraffin 10.0 
    Squalane 5.0
    Caprylic and capric triglyceride 5.0
    Glycerine 5.0
    Putylene glycol 3.0
    Propylene glycol 3.0
    Triethanol amine 0.2
    Preservative, pigment, flavor Suitable amount
    • INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY
  • The composition for external use on skin according to the present invention comprises at least one of catechins and flavonols which are components of green tea as an active ingredient to reduce biosynthesis of gelatinase (MMP-2, MMP-9) and increase biosynthesis of type IV collagen, type VII collagen and laminin 10/11 thereby inhibiting decomposition and promoting generation of the dermis-epidermis junction and protecting the dermis-epidermis junction.

Claims (13)

1. An anti-aging composition for external use on skin comprising at least one of catechins and flavonols as an active ingredient.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the catechins are selected from the group consisting of (−)EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate), (−)GCG (gallocatechin gallate), (−)ECG (epicatechin gallate), (−)CG (catechin gallate), (−)EGC (epigallocatechin), (−)GC (gallocatechin), (−)EC (epicatechin), (+)EC (epicatechin), (−)CA (catechin) and (+)CA (catechin).
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the flavonols are selected from the group consisting of quercetin, kaempferol and myricetin.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the active ingredient is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 10 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition according to claim 1, which further comprises theanine as an active ingredient.
6. The composition according to claim 5, which comprises 0.004 to 0.025 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one of catechins and flavonols and 0.008 to 2.5 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition, of theanine, in which the content ratio of the at least one of catechins and flavonols to theanine is 1:20 to 1:100.
7. A method of promoting biosynthesis of collagen comprising administering to a subject the composition of claim 1.
8. A method of reducing wrinkles comprising administering to a subject the composition of claim 1.
9. A method of improving skin elasticity comprising administering to a subject the composition of claim 1.
10. A method of activating peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors-alpha (PPAR-α) comprising administering to a subject the composition of claim 1.
11. A method of inhibiting inflammation comprising administering to a subject the composition of claim 1.
12. A method of inhibiting expression of MMP-1 comprising administering to a subject the composition of claim 1.
13. A method of inhibiting tumor necrosis factor α (TNF-α) comprising administering to a subject the composition of claim 1.
US12/064,887 2005-09-08 2006-09-08 Composition Of Skin External Application For Anti-Aging Abandoned US20090012155A1 (en)

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KR10-2005-0083665 2005-09-08
KR10-2005-0083667 2005-09-08
KR1020060021797A KR20070091964A (en) 2006-03-08 2006-03-08 Skin external composition for peroxysome proliferator activator receptor alpha activation
KR10-2006-0021797 2006-03-08
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US10568939B2 (en) 2016-07-20 2020-02-25 Board Of Supervisors Of Louisiana State University And Agricultural And Mechanical College Composition and method for improving sleep duration and quality
US10980735B2 (en) 2016-09-30 2021-04-20 Amorepacific Corporation Externally-applied dermal preparation composition containing extract of green tea cultivated under extreme shading

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US10092493B2 (en) 2018-10-09
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JP5192380B2 (en) 2013-05-08
JP2009507826A (en) 2009-02-26

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