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US20060003668A1 - System and method for not-sew manufacturing - Google Patents

System and method for not-sew manufacturing Download PDF

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Publication number
US20060003668A1
US20060003668A1 US10/668,462 US66846203A US2006003668A1 US 20060003668 A1 US20060003668 A1 US 20060003668A1 US 66846203 A US66846203 A US 66846203A US 2006003668 A1 US2006003668 A1 US 2006003668A1
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United States
Prior art keywords
fabric
laminated
layer
lamination
temperature
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US10/668,462
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English (en)
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Eric Aerts
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G22 Altesse Co Ltd
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Individual
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Priority claimed from US10/001,286 external-priority patent/US20020151239A1/en
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to US10/668,462 priority Critical patent/US20060003668A1/en
Assigned to G22 ALTESSE CO., LTD. reassignment G22 ALTESSE CO., LTD. ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: AERTS, ERIC
Publication of US20060003668A1 publication Critical patent/US20060003668A1/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/0007—Brassieres with stay means
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/0014—Brassieres made from one piece with one or several layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C5/00—Machines, appliances, or methods for manufacturing corsets or brassieres
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C5/00—Machines, appliances, or methods for manufacturing corsets or brassieres
    • A41C5/005—Machines, appliances, or methods for manufacturing corsets or brassieres by moulding
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/18—Elastic
    • A41D31/185—Elastic using layered materials
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B37/00—Methods or apparatus for laminating, e.g. by curing or by ultrasonic bonding
    • B32B37/12—Methods or apparatus for laminating, e.g. by curing or by ultrasonic bonding characterised by using adhesives
    • B32B37/1207—Heat-activated adhesive
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/22—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed
    • B32B5/24—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/26—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer another layer next to it also being fibrous or filamentary
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B7/00—Layered products characterised by the relation between layers; Layered products characterised by the relative orientation of features between layers, or by the relative values of a measurable parameter between layers, i.e. products comprising layers having different physical, chemical or physicochemical properties; Layered products characterised by the interconnection of layers
    • B32B7/04—Interconnection of layers
    • B32B7/12—Interconnection of layers using interposed adhesives or interposed materials with bonding properties
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2305/00—Condition, form or state of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2305/10—Fibres of continuous length
    • B32B2305/18—Fabrics, textiles
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2309/00—Parameters for the laminating or treatment process; Apparatus details
    • B32B2309/02—Temperature
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2309/00—Parameters for the laminating or treatment process; Apparatus details
    • B32B2309/12—Pressure
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2101/00—Inorganic fibres
    • D10B2101/20—Metallic fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/062—Load-responsive characteristics stiff, shape retention
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/02—Underwear

Definitions

  • the present invention relates generally to manufacturing of garments via fabric lamination and an intermediate pre-laminating step and without requiring stitching. More specifically, the laminate fabric has particular utility in conjunction with women's undergarments, such as panties and brasssieres as well as undergarments in general by providing cost effecient construction of reinforced garments with desired texture, function and porosity.
  • Brassieres present additional manufacturing challenges due to issues related to comfort, appearance and marketing.
  • brassieres may be sheer, lined, or padded for reasons of appearance and comfort.
  • lined or padded bras There are essentially two varieties of lined or padded bras—cut-and-sew, and molded.
  • the cut-and-sew variety creates the shape of its cup and padding by assembling pre-cut components while molded brassieres are provided cups by heat or pressure based shaping of materials and pads.
  • Sheer or unlined brassieres have no lining whatsoever often resulting in nipples showing through, a quality that is often regarded with disfavor by many, but not all, customers.
  • Lined brassieres are both more comfortable than sheer brassieres and are better at concealing nipples while retaining a more realistic look when worn.
  • lined brassieres contain an additional layer that is one eighth to a quarter inch thick.
  • Padded brassieres are heavier than lined brassieres and are often designed to enhance the apparent size of the bust or provide increased comfort to the wearer. Padded brassieres are almost always sewn with the undesirable feel of sewn edges and inserts.
  • hanger appeal refers to the customer's first impression when they see the garment on the hanger at retail.
  • a lightly lined brassiere has greater hanger appeal than an unlined version specifically because the unlined bras droop in the breast due to the lack of support, whereas the lined version is better at holding its shape.
  • the consumer can immediately envision how it will look when worn without having to try it on.
  • a manufacturing challenge is to make a lined brassiere without uncomfortable seams that is economical to make, perspiration resistant, does not discolor with use or light and still provide a good hand and hanger appeal. To this end lamination has been attempted unsuccessfully for both lined and padded brasseires.
  • U.S. Pat. No. 4,372,321 provides a brassiere having a unitary molded breast cup including an intermediate lower cup support panel adhesively bonded to the cup by a polyester hot melt adhesive typically applied through a screen that allows dotted coverage of the surface. Such an adhesive pattern makes the orientation of the adhesive a factor in controlling the overall laminate elongation characteristics.
  • U.S. Pat. No. 3,317,645 discloses another method for forming a laminate or molded article such as brassiere cups with an intermediate plastic layer while U.S. Pat. Nos.
  • 4,375,445 and 4,419,997 are directed to molded cup brassiere in which the cup is formed of a laminate consisting of two layers of stretchable material which include a non-stretchable crown portion, a substantially non-stretchable longitudinal cup portion and a unitary multi-directional stretchable periphery portion.
  • Lining or padding is typically made from either fiber or foam that simply lack the stretch needed to bubble mold. Therefore, when making a padded, seamless bra, manufacturers have historically turned to form molding.
  • Form molding does not require much stretch at all; instead, male and female molds are heated and pressed together to essentially melt the foam or fiber padding into the desired shape.
  • This method is however, not suitable for providing cups in a completed bra since the pads are molded first, and then assembled into the garment later.
  • the reason for this limitation is that once the underwire has been placed into the bra, e.g., as channeling, it is almost impossible to place the bra within the male and female molds in a manner that will not damage the garment by placing stress on the underwire. The molds tend to press against the wires in a manner that unacceptably increases the likelihood of tearing the outer fabric.
  • U.S. Pat. No. 3,383,263 is directed to a method for preparing a fabric laminate by laminating two fabrics by means of regularly recurring spaced geometric units of substantially dry adhesive film sandwiched between the outer fabric surfaces, with the result laminate having a raised pattern portion as determined by the adhesive pattern.
  • U.S. Pat. No. 3,497,415 forms a laminate including fabrics of different elasticity secured together with a conventional adhesive, such that the laminate characteristics are primarily determined by the elasticity of the two fabric layers and U.S. Pat. No. 4,135,025 teaches varying the stretch characteristics of a fabric by selective insertion of different warp and weft threads into the fabric.
  • the adhesive comprises an integral adhesive, web which has differential elongation characteristics, characterized as offering different magnitudes of resistance to elongation when subjected to distortion in its different directions.
  • the adhesive web is confined to between the fabric layers without any appreciable penetration into the individual fabrics forming the laminate. The use of such an adhesive web is undesirable from the perspective of low-cost, high quality manufacturing due to the required handling during manufacturing, the desired stability of the adhesive upon repeated exposure to moisture and perspiration and introduction of pores without employing excessively thick adhesive layers.
  • laminated garments typically including laminated support panels, e.g., panties and brassieres and other undergarments, with better adhesives, inserts and manufacturing procedures to resist damage due to garment wear and tear caused by exposure to moisture, heat and perspiration while providing superior feel and comfort to a person wearing the garment.
  • laminated support panels e.g., panties and brassieres and other undergarments
  • Not-SewTM technology makes possible several advantages properties. For instance, a seamless garment finish is more comfortable than a finish having seams and other imperfections due to the need to tuck/sew edges and joints. Seamless undergarments are less apparent under close fitting outer clothing, thus, creating a more pleasant appearance and greater aesthetic appeal.
  • lamination allows for the edges of a garment to remain unsewn by providing a fraying resistant seamless finish due to the presence of the adhesive. This results in even displacement of pressure against the skin of the wearer and greater comfort than other seamless garments.
  • Not-SewTM manufacturing techniques are more efficient and less costly than traditional sewing techniques.
  • the Not-SewTM technology employs a film of adhesive that is preferably an ether-based polyurethane although other adhesives are acceptable. This adhesive is prelaminated and laminated under conditions to control adhesion, stretch, breathability, and longevity of the garment.
  • the disclosed invention further encompasses efficient manufacturing techniques for manufacturing of laminated garments. These techniques include continuous production from rolls, including “slit” roles, of material rather than a “sheeted” method using small pieces of fabric and material. Such techniques reduce or eliminate the time for repeated loading and unloading of sheets. Continuous production techniques include cutting of patterns to yield a greater number of garments and/or undergarments from a given amount of material by reducing wastage. In addition, the invention encompasses the manufacturing of brassieres with large cup sizes, such as cup sizes greater than 38 C, and even cup sizes as large as 44 DD.
  • the larger cup sizes are believed to be made possible, without intending to be bound by any theory, by the providing of a lining that also acts as a heat buffer, extra support and an extra layer of adhesives by the method and system disclosed by the invention.
  • the invention also encompasses brassieres with inserts to make push-up brassieres for an improved appearance.
  • the invention also encompasses universal tooling for manufacturing stabilizers with channeling with low tolerances. Pieces so manufactured may have sealing and other operations performed, if desired, in a single operation/machine stage.
  • FIG. 1 illustrates a brassiere with an insert, shown in both inserted into a pocket and partially withdrawn positions, to provide an uplift in appearance
  • FIG. 2 is an illustration of a pre-lamination machine with fabric and adhesive roles loaded thereon and suitable for continuous manufacturing that seamlessly incorporates the batch procedure;
  • FIG. 3 is a view of a cutting arrangement for preparing rolls of a desired width for prelamination
  • FIG. 4 provides an illustrative view of a prelamination setup showing the adhesive and fabric feeds
  • FIG. 5 illustrates an example universal tool for making center-front stabilizers
  • FIG. 6 illustrates feeding of fabric and prelaminated fabric in a lamination machine suited for continuous production line with alignment of pieces with the aid of lasers in the course of a production line based manufacturing set-up;
  • FIG. 7 shows an illustrative pattern placement for reducing wastage by interleaving patterns in continuous manufacturing using rolls, including slit roles
  • FIG. 8 shows a bubble molding apparatus and process for creating a cup in a brassiere
  • FIG. 9 shows an example brassier with a cup size of 44 double D manufactured in accordance with the invention.
  • Lamination based manufacturing of garments although known in the art, is not as widely used as might be expected in view of the labor intensive nature of standard sewing techniques.
  • One of the reasons is that the nature of the known adhesives was not suitable to provide long-lasting comfortable garments. Plastic does not allow for ready exchange of gases resulting in excessive buildup of moisture, odors and provides a less than desirable feel for the wearer.
  • Other adhesives are susceptible to hydrolysis, particularly in undergarments, upon exposure to sweat, and other bodily fluids.
  • Applicants have also determined that adhesives in the form of films are preferable to adhesives in the form of webs for laminating fabrics together. This is due to, in part, the improved consistency in adhesion following lamination made possible by films.
  • lamination makes possible easy construction of reinforced garments such that the reinforcement is in areas in need of reinforcement. Such reinforcement does not make the garment excessively bulky while providing desirable fabric feel close to the skin.
  • the outer layer of an exemplary laminated garment can be selected for other properties such as removing moisture, appearance and the like without compromising on the feel of the garment or its durability.
  • the glue that holds this all together is the adhesive used to laminate the plurality of layers together.
  • the thickness of the thin film is at least 0.5 mils and less than 20 mils. and ranges there between. More preferably the thickness of the film is from 0.5 mils to 2.0 mils. Even more preferably the thickness of the film is from 1.0 mils to 5.0 mils and most preferably the thickness of the film is from 1.0 mils to 1.5 mils.
  • the use of a thin film enables pre-lamination, as described later, and adhesion while maintaining porosity, stretch, softness of hand, and avoiding imparting a bulky feel to the laminated garment.
  • Suitable films and webs of adhesives for practicing various embodiments of the invention exhibit high resistance to moisture and perspiration, in addition to possessing elastomeric and thermoplastic properties.
  • An example film comprises ether-based polyurethane, and suitable lubricants, if any. The proportion of lubricants in such films is typically less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% and even more preferably less than 0.1%. The preferred lubricant resists discoloration caused by exposure to UV or moisture/perspiration without intending to be bound by theory.
  • An example film comprising a suitable lubricant is the “NOT-SEW ADHESIVE FILM” manufactured and supplied by JPS Elastomerics of Holyoke, Mass. (also supplied as item #1310).
  • Additional exemplary films comprise treated ester-based polyurethane and suitable lubricants, if any.
  • the films can be composites of various thermoplastic materials.
  • the adhesive film comprises at least 50% ether-based polyurethane, even more preferably 90% ether-based polyurethane and most preferably at least 99% ether-based polyurethane.
  • Polyurethanes are a thermoplastic material that exhibit elastomeric properties although they do not have internal cross-links to any appreciable degree. This makes them suitable for use as adhesives in lamination, especially in view of the tackiness of ether-based polyurethanes at suitable temperatures below their melt points, or glass transition temperatures. Typical glass transition temperatures are greater than or about 200 oF and may often be as high as 375 oF.
  • FIG. 1 illustrates insert 100 half inserted in pocket 105 in a brassiere manufactured by the lamination techniques of the invention.
  • FIG. 1 also illustrates the brassiere with insert 110 fully placed in pocket 115 .
  • the pocket may be manufactured by various methods including those described next.
  • a slit in a laminated sheet provides a pocket in an embodiment of the invention.
  • another prelaminated sheet is laminated in area where the slit is made to provide the requisite edge finish and prevent fraying with age.
  • the Not-SewTM technology enables construction of a variety of different garments, including complex garments requiring inserts, supports and wires, with a simple procedure that interfaces well with traditional manufacturing techniques.
  • one of the layers is prelaminated with the adhesive layer by first heating the adhesive to a softness sufficient for tacking it to the fabric layer.
  • This tacking helps in ease of handling thin films since often the fabric layer itself is quite thin and the tacking step allows the adhesive and fabric to reinforce each other.
  • the tacking temperature is preferably below the temperature for melting the adhesive, even more preferably at least 2 oF below the melt temperature for the adhesive film.
  • the other layer is placed as desired on the prelaminated layer followed by application of additional heat and pressure for a defined amount of time, often termed cycle time to complete the lamination process.
  • the temperature for lamination is dependent on the particular adhesive film employed.
  • the lamination temperature is about 300° F., more preferably the lamination temperature is about 350° F., and even more preferably the lamination temperature is about 375° F. These temperatures are accurate to about 20° F. It should be noted that the respective times for application of heat and pressure need not be the same.
  • FIG. 2 illustrates a pre-lamination machine in operation with re-winding machine 305 shown.
  • FIG. 3 shows roll-slitter 310 for preparing rolls of a desired width.
  • Pre-lamination machine of FIG. 2 also shows fabric 315 and adhesive 320 roles as they are fed into it.
  • Support for undergarments like brassieres includes padding, providing wires in sleeves known as channeling, contoured cups for imparting a desired shape and support, and the like.
  • Providing wires for supporting breasts for increased comfort is done by inserting wires in a pair of sleeves to hold the wire securely placing it relative to the other wire accurately and firmly as well as provide padding of wire for comfort of the wearer.
  • This requires construction of sleeves, typically by stitching resulting in significant expense due to the need for accuracy and extensive positioning, sewing, and insertion of wires. The entire process is termed “channeling.” Similar operational details are encountered in making stiff collars for shirts and other garment shape imparting components.
  • FIG. 4 illustrates pre-lamination of channeling material with a heating source 505 , which may be radio frequency (RF) as shown or other methods of providing heat, and input adhesive 610 , and fabric 605 in an continuous process of pre-lamination to produce a pre-laminated channeling with an adhesive having desirable resistance to hydrolysis.
  • RF radio frequency
  • FIG. 5 illustrates a universal tool for further producing center-front stabilizers.
  • Stops 705 for instance, prepared from foam, provide aids for positioning the center-front stabilizer assembly. Stops 705 are adjustable in many ways to allow production of various center-front stabilizers using the same tooling. For instance, pitch canal 710 allows adjustment of their relative pitch with a selected position maintained by pitch canal clamp 715 .
  • FIG. 5 also shows the universal tool with further adjustments including compensating seal pitch adjuster 810 held by diameter adjustment clamp 815 in diameter adjustment canal 820 . Also shown for positioning the center of the center-front stabilizer is center-front spacing adjuster 825 held by center-front spacing clamp 805 .
  • FIG. 5 also shows a center-front stabilizer held in the universal tool.
  • Channeling 905 is held with center 915 of the center-front stabilizer and other end 910 of the center-front stabilizer stabilized with suitable stops, the entire assembly placed on bed 920 to carry out lamination operations and sealing of the ends of the channeling to hold the wires held therein.
  • the surface (not shown) that presses on the assembly also may carry one or more stops to support various parts of the center-front stabilizer.
  • FIG. 6 shows a lamination machine with top fabric roll 1005 and pre-laminated fabric roll 1010 being fed into the lamination machine.
  • FIG. 6 further shows the use of lasers 1105 to help accurately, reproducibly and speedily place inserts, such as center-front stabilizers, on the spots 1110 formed by the lasers for continuous manufacturing. Following placement the lamination process produces a composite that may be cut to prepare a plurality of brassieres after adding one or more of buckles, clamps, hooks, and/or straps.
  • FIG. 8 illustrates an advantage of continuous production in reducing wastage.
  • Traditional manufacturing by the sheet fed method typically prepares a composite sheet.
  • Continuous manufacturing allows placement of interleaved brassiere blanks 1210 as shown with reduced wastage due to the eventual recovery of blanks that fall outside the boundaries of the sheet in the next cycle of lamination.
  • the interleaved pattern may be varied, and need not be periodic only (quasi-crystalline placement patterns are also intended to be included).
  • a typical production procedure allows side feeding of material corresponding to the size of the lamination platten in a cycle rather than the traditional front-loading of individual sheets.
  • rolls and slit rolls of material are advantageously combined with the need to place inserts and other structures that preclude the use of rollers for providing the lamination heat and pressure.
  • FIG. 6 also shows a typical lamination machine with its platten that may be raised or lowered.
  • FIG. 6 further illustrates an example feeding mechanism in a lamination machine. Shown is pneumatic piston drive 1505 for pulling a specified length of material for lamination.
  • the lamination machine in FIG. 6 further shows feed clamp 1605 for holding the material being pulled in by the pneumatic piston drive 1505 .
  • Feed clamp 1605 for holding the material is, in turn, controlled and driven by one or more synchronized pneumatic feed clamp pistons 1610 .
  • initial loading/release toggle 1615 facilitates the start or stopping of a production run.
  • FIG. 8 illustrates some steps in the bubble molding process for creating a cup, including large cup sizes, in a brassiere by application of heat and pressure.
  • Bubble molding is a method typically used for unlined bras and is ideal for what is known as “post molding.” Post molding is basically molding a completed bra as the final stage of its production, when it has been fully assembled.
  • a typical bubble molding machine 1700 has a top plate 1705 and bottom plate 1710 (these hold the flat bra in place clamped between the top plate 1705 and bottom plate 1710 ) with matching holes 1715 , a “bullet” shaped heated mold 1720 , driven, e.g.
  • the inside surfaces 1735 of the top plate 1705 and bottom plate 1710 are padded.
  • the top and bottom plates are aligned and guided through any one of many possible mechanisms such as the depicted pins 1740 .
  • Alternative embodiments may include lasers beams, precision machined gears and other mechanisms known in the art to ensure proper alignment between the top plate 1705 and bottom plate 1710 , along with a workpiece clamped between them.
  • bubble molding has not worked well with lined or padded bras. The reason for this is that bubble molding requires a great deal of stretch and give from the fabrics used, and whereas it is easy enough to find fabrics that will do this, it is not so easy to find lining or padding that will fit this criteria.
  • a woven moldable stretch fabric allows production of a lined bra using the bubble molding method.
  • a woven spacer fabric that, although a moldable stretch fabric, also has the thickness, and stiffness needed to meet the definition of a lined bra. Accordingly, the lining is first pre-laminated on one side with the adhesive film, cut to the desired cup shape, placed according to the garment's pattern within the “sandwich.” Since the plates on a bubble-molding machine are padded and not heated, there is no stress on the fabric around the underwires, if any, that are provided for supporting breasts encased in the cups when the brassier is being worn.
  • the invention encompasses the manufacturing of brassieres with large cup sizes, such as cup sizes greater than 38 C, and even cup sizes as large as 44 DD.
  • the larger cup sizes are believed to be made possible, without intending to be bound by any theory, by the providing of a lining that also acts as a heat buffer, extra support and an extra layer of adhesive(s) by the method and system disclosed by the invention.
  • the invention also encompasses brassieres with inserts to make push-up brassieres for an improved appearance.
  • bubble molding apparatus and method disclosed herein admits of various variations including temperature, number of molds, making of intermediate sized cups and adding material/adhesives in the course of making larger cups, providing inserts, and other push-up elements to the brassiere, and the like.
  • FIG. 9 illustrates an example lined brassiere with bubble molded cups of size 44 DD (pronounced as double D), the brassier having a desired soft feeling and hanger appeal, adequate support as well as unsewn edges 1805 that resist fraying.
  • the invention can be utilized to make a variety of different garments of greater or lesser complexity, the general method and applications remain the same. That is, two or more layers of fabrics (or other components, such as underwires) are laminated together with layer(s) of adhesive in between, using heat and pressure to soften the adhesive and press it into the fibers of the material. Different shaped panels can be pre-cut and positioned to provide greater support or stability to needed areas, or the entire garment may simply consist of two or more layers which are first laminated and then cut to the desired shape.
  • garments may be modified further by molding (such as with bra cups), by using ultrasonic or radio-frequency seals (such as for attaching straps), or even by sewing (for joining ends).
  • Fabrics are selected that a) have two-way stretch, b) are moldable, c) are not treated with dyes or softeners that will inhibit the adhesive, and d) fabrics to be laminated together have like physical properties compatible with being laminated together.
  • the ‘like physical properties’ is not a limitation on the scope of the invention but merely a detail in this embodiment so that when the fabrics are stretched, molded, etc., they will act together and not put unnecessary strain on the adhesive.
  • Tests are then run to determine the optimum thickness and melt-point of the film, in order to create the best bond and least strain (from heat of the laminating process) for said fabric(s).
  • the main components of the N-S bra are the inner and outer layers of fabric; these act as a kind of sandwich for the majority of the other components (such as underwires, channeling, padding, stabilizing, and support fabrics, etc.).
  • the inner side of one of these fabrics, as well as one side of all components to be placed within the “sandwich, is pre-laminated with the desired adhesive.”
  • Pre-lamination is a process whereby the N-S film adhesive, typically an ether-based polyurethane film, preferably 1 to 1.5 mils (thousandths of an inch) thick is tacked to the fabrics to be used.
  • the tacking is accomplished by using a lower temperature and less pressure than that of the actual laminating to avoid loss of the adhesive in the fibers of the fabric while allowing for easier handling of both adhesive and fabrics.
  • Many fabrics are thin and susceptible to damage by excessive heat.
  • tacking a thin adhesive film results in the combination being stronger and easier to handle in addition to providing better control over the subsequent lamination process itself.
  • adhesives lack a well defined melting point since they are similar to glasses and tend to soften progressively with increasing temperature. Consequently, the temperature for pre-laminating can be advantageously empirically determined to suit a particular fabric and production setup within the scope of the invention.
  • any components (pads, stabilizers, channeling) to be placed within the “sandwich” are die-cut or slit to the proper size/shape.
  • underwires are inserted into the channels and sealed.
  • the outer fabrics both the pre-laminated and the non-laminated
  • the bottom sheet (pre-laminated) is placed (adhesive side up) on the bed of the laminating press (a pressurized press with both top and bottom heated plates) using a system of pins and holes, which have been pre-located on the comers of the sheets.
  • the internal components are placed upon the sheet (adhesive side up as well).
  • the top sheet is placed on top using the same system of pins and holes.
  • the “sandwich” is then laminated corresponding to the temperature, cycle-time, and pressure designated by the previous testing.
  • a “bubble molding” machine the cups of the bra are molded to the proper circumference to complete the manufacturing process.
  • the invention provides a practical and cost effective method and system to manufacture laminated garments with a comfortable seamless finish and reduced visibility under tight-fitting clothing.
  • the unfinished edges do not exhibit fraying resulting in even displacement of pressure against the skin of the wearer and even greater comfort than other seamless garments.
  • the disclosed manufacturing techniques are more efficient and less costly than traditional sewing techniques.
  • use of sewing to add loops, belts, straps and other additions to a laminated garment or portion thereof prepared in accordance with the invention allows the invention to synergistically extend the range of methods and technologies for manufacturing garments.
  • an adhesive made in the form of a film provides more consistent physical properties than webs, powders, or liquid adhesives. This, naturally, is of significance in imparting resistance to delamination and fraying, the peeling apart of laminated surfaces.
  • an adhesive made from ether-based polyurethane (versus the known untreated ester-based polyurethane resins) is superior to previously employed adhesives.
  • the disclosed cycle-time, temperature and pressure engineered processes (both adhesive and machinery) optimize adhesion, stretch, breathability, and longevity of garment manufactured in accordance therewith.
  • the disclosed method and system teach producing garments without, or with reduced amounts of, traditional sewing techniques. In lieu of sewing, fabrics are joined using a laminating process that is superior due to its unique adhesive and manufacturing process. It is particularly applicable to the manufacturing of intimate apparel (bras, panties), shapewear, and activewear, which because of their complex construction—that often need to withstand much more stretch than other garments—typically requires a great deal of bulky and expensive stitching.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
US10/668,462 2001-10-16 2003-09-22 System and method for not-sew manufacturing Abandoned US20060003668A1 (en)

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US10/668,462 US20060003668A1 (en) 2001-10-16 2003-09-22 System and method for not-sew manufacturing

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

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US33011901P 2001-10-16 2001-10-16
US10/001,286 US20020151239A1 (en) 2000-05-11 2001-11-30 Not-sew seamless technology
US10/668,462 US20060003668A1 (en) 2001-10-16 2003-09-22 System and method for not-sew manufacturing

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US09/328,918 Division US6666108B1 (en) 1995-08-07 1999-06-09 Vibration control by confinement of vibration energy
US10/001,286 Continuation-In-Part US20020151239A1 (en) 2000-05-11 2001-11-30 Not-sew seamless technology

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US11/053,248 Division US20060106500A1 (en) 1995-08-07 2005-02-08 Vibration control by confinement of vibration energy

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Cited By (6)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20060213094A1 (en) * 2005-03-24 2006-09-28 Nisshinbo Industries, Inc. Sewn products and method for preventing seam puckering on sewn products
CN110214984A (zh) * 2016-05-16 2019-09-10 玛斯特工业（远东）有限公司 用于胸罩的前布块以及胸罩
US20190366675A1 (en) * 2018-05-31 2019-12-05 Nike, Inc. Multilayer textile having printed layer
US11425941B1 (en) * 2019-11-08 2022-08-30 MaryMac Revisions, LLC Comfort fit natural breast shaping nipple concealer
US12193525B2 (en) * 2020-07-13 2025-01-14 Retail Royalty Company Folded-wing brassiere and method of construction
US20250261706A1 (en) * 2022-05-09 2025-08-21 Thuasne Deutschland Gmbh Compression bra for decongestion care

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KR100418224B1 (ko) * 2002-02-28 2004-02-11 주식회사 반포텍 텐트 플라이의 웨빙부 방수 처리방법 및 그 구조
AU2003265151A1 (en) * 2003-08-28 2005-03-16 Grit Kundler Seymour Method of making a seamless garment
ITMI20070299A1 (it) * 2007-02-16 2008-08-17 Macpi Pressing Div Macchina per applicare senza cuciture alle coppe di un reggiseno o ad un reggiseno intero un astuccio in cui puo'essere inserito un ferretto di sostegno
FR2912611B1 (fr) * 2007-02-21 2009-11-20 Dbapparel Operations Stratifie textile comportant une premiere couche textile attachee a une couche de matiere a deux faces de textiles.
CN115105298A (zh) * 2021-03-22 2022-09-27 常州爱丽葆康护理用品股份有限公司 一种防止高分子吸水树脂颗粒泄漏的乳垫

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US3383263A (en) * 1966-04-26 1968-05-14 Rohm & Haas Method for preparing fabric laminate
US4372321A (en) * 1980-04-18 1983-02-08 The Lovable Company Molded reinforced breast cup and method for making same
US4627427A (en) * 1984-10-17 1986-12-09 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Universal medical cover sheet and process for draping
CA1326442C (fr) * 1988-06-15 1994-01-25 Setsumi Tanase Materiel en feuilles pour traitement medical par contact cutane
US5447462A (en) * 1993-04-13 1995-09-05 Playtex Apparel, Inc. Fabric laminate and garments incorporating same

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20060213094A1 (en) * 2005-03-24 2006-09-28 Nisshinbo Industries, Inc. Sewn products and method for preventing seam puckering on sewn products
CN110214984A (zh) * 2016-05-16 2019-09-10 玛斯特工业（远东）有限公司 用于胸罩的前布块以及胸罩
US20190366675A1 (en) * 2018-05-31 2019-12-05 Nike, Inc. Multilayer textile having printed layer
US11425941B1 (en) * 2019-11-08 2022-08-30 MaryMac Revisions, LLC Comfort fit natural breast shaping nipple concealer
US12193525B2 (en) * 2020-07-13 2025-01-14 Retail Royalty Company Folded-wing brassiere and method of construction
US20250261706A1 (en) * 2022-05-09 2025-08-21 Thuasne Deutschland Gmbh Compression bra for decongestion care

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