US2003879A - Sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

June 4, 1935. 'r. H. DE SPAIN 2,003,879

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presser foot is intermittently raised to relieve pressure on the goods each time the needle pene-" Patented June 4, 1935 UNITED. STATES PATENT OFFICE 2,003,879 SEWING MACHINE David and, Samuel Lewis Application September 11, 1933, Serial bio. 689,033

9 Claims. Cl. 112-159) sides of said support, with a presser foot for This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines and particularly to a sewing machine for uniting braided fabrics or materials.

In stitching together pieces of braided material, it is desirable, in a great many instances, to so form the seam that the individual stitches will not be very noticeable, in other words, will appear to be substantially continuations of the threads or ends of which the braided material is 10 made. For this reason the primary object of the invention is to provide a machine which will produce stitches in such fashion that they will lie substantially parallel with, or in the same planes or lines as the threads or ends constituting the braided material, as distinguished from a seam formed of stitches that extend at substantial angles to said threads or ends.

More specifically, the invention contemplates a machine wherein the needle is not only actuated to penetrate the goods operated upon, but is also manipulated automatically so as to move it transversely and longitudinally of the seam each time it penetrates the goods, with the result that what might be termed a zig-zag stitch is formed, the

35 several stitches forming continuations of, or lying in substantially the same lines as, the threads or ends constituting the braided material. conjunction with this transverse and longitudinal movement of the needle, means are also provided 30 for shifting the shuttle of the sewing machine transversely of the seam. being formed.

Another object is to provide actuating mechanism which will efiect the foregoing movements of the needle and shuttle in proper timed rela- 55 tion to each other and which mechanism is capaole of a single adjustment for varying the throw or extent of movement imparted to theneedle and shuttle transversely of the seam being formed.

A still further object is the provision of a presser foot yieldingly urged toward work passing under the needle, said presser foot being provided with actuating mechanism which will relieve pressure I of the presser'foot on the work when the needle trates the goods. This is highly desirable, for instance, where the operator is working on braided material in the formation of a hat body, it

being necessary to turn the fabric when making what is known as the button in the crown of av hat. g

Described more in detail, there is a work sup- 55 portand a shuttle and sewing needle at opposite In other words, the

holding the work in proper position on said support. As is customary, the needle passes through the presser foot but, in the present instance, the presse foot is formed with an elongated arcuate slot extending diagonally of the seam formed in ated from the main drive shaft by means which will intermittently rotate it in proper timed relation to the withdrawal of the needle from the goods, in order to advance or feed the goods to and from the needle.

With these and other objects in view, the invention consists in certain details of construction and combinations and arrangements of parts, all as will hereinafter be'more fully described and the novel features thereof particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

In the accompanying drawings:

Figure 1 is a side elevation of a machine embodying the present invention;

Fig. 2' is a view, partly in elevation and partly in vertical section, taken longitudinally of the machine;

Fig. 3 is an end view of the machine with the cover plate of the frame removed to show a por tion of the driving connections;

Fig. 4 is an end view of the opposite end of the machine illustrating the needle and with the cover for the shuttle housing opened to illustrate the shuttle;

Fig. 5 is a transverse vertical sectional view on the line 55 oi Fig. 2; r

Fig. 6 isa substantially horizontal sectional Figs. .10 and 11 are views to Figs. 8 and 9, but illustrating the needle in theposition at the opposite side of the seam;

Fig. 12 is a plan view of the work support illustrating also the feed roller and the guide means for the goods being fed along the work support Fig. 13 is a similar view, but showing the presser foot superposed above the feed roller;

Fig. 14 is a sectional view on the line |4-|4 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 15 is a detailed perspective view illustrating the pivotal support for the needle;

Fig. 16 is a transverse sectional'view on the line |6|6 of Fig. 12, illustrating the driving connections for the feed roller;

Fig. 17 is a vertical sectional view taken longitudinally of the structure illustrated in Fig. 16; Fig. 18 is a vertical sectional view 'on the line |8|8 of Fig. 17;

Fig. 19 is a similar view on the line |9'l9.of Fig. 17;

Fig. 20 is a vertical view,-partly in section, illustrating the actuating mechanism for relieving tension on the presser foot when the needle is engaged in the goods;

Fig. 21 is a sectional view on the line 2 |--2| of Fi 20;

Fig. 22 is a detailed perspective view of the hub portion of the rocker arm for imparting the sewing movement to the needle;

Fig; 23 is a vertical sectional view through the presser foot rod, said view being taken at right angles to Fig. 20; and

Figs. 24 and 25 illustrate specimens of the seam formed by the present machine.

Preferably, a goodly portion of the driving connections for the several instrumentalities are enclosed in a housing or frame 30, which is provided at its base portion with apertured lugs' 3| for mounting the machine on a suitable support. At its upper portion, housing 30 is provided with a projecting or over-hanging arm 32 and at its outer extremity, said arm is formed with a vertically extending portion 33 substantially U-shaped in cross-section. Journaled in the main frame is the driving shaft 34 having mounted thereon the grooved pulley 35, whereby power from any suitable source may be transmitted to said shaft. At its base portion, the frame 30 is also formed with a projecting portion 36 extending beneath, but spaced from, the over-hanging arm 32. This portion 36 constitutes the housing for the shuttle, being open at its end and bottom, although the end is adapted to be closed by a hinged cover 31. The upper or exterior surface of said portion 36 is constituted. in part by metal having a smooth finish which serves as the. work support 38. slidably mounted in bearings 39, within the lower portion of the main frame and extension 36, is a shaft 40 carrying the shuttle 4|. The said shuttle is of the usual rotating shuttle construction and need not bedescribed in detail. Rotary motion isimparted to shaft 240 from a crank 4| on the main drive shaft 34, said crank being corinected by a pitman 42 to the shaft, by means of a roller 43 engaging in a slot 44 in a block 45 mounted on the end of shaft 40, said slot extending radially with respect to the axis of shaft 40. Pitm'an 42 has a slot extending longitudinally thereof (see Fig. 3) and projecting through said slot is a stub shaft 46 mounted in the end plate of the frame. Journaled on shaft 46 for rocking motion, is a block 41 which engages the side walls of the slot in said pitman. In this way, movement of the upper end of pitman 42 by crank 4| causes the roller 43 to move radially of shaft 40 so as to vary the speed of rotation of the latter shaft, whereby a dwell in the rotary'movement of the shuttle 4| will occur at the proper predetermined times for the purposes of permitting the shuttle to-properly cooperate with the needle when the latter is caused to penetrate the goods in the making of a stitch.

The needle, indicated at 48, is detachably mounted on a bar 49 slidable in bearings 50, of what, for convenience, will be termed the needle support, said support being pivoted on a pivot pin 5|, carried by a plate 52 mounted in the depending portion 33 of the frame. At its upper end, the needle bar 49 carries an enlargement 53 provided with a laterally projecting pin 54 which slidably engages in a bearing 55 carried at the extremity of the rocker arm 56. Rocker arm 56 is pivoted intermediate its ends on the overhanging arm 32 and at its opposite end it is connected by a pitman 58 to a crank 59 on the main drive shaft 34. By means of this connection with the main drive shaft, rotary motion of said shaft will impart a reciprocatory motion to the needle 48, the needle rod 49 reciprocating vertically in its bearings 50. This reciprocatory motion of the needle causes it to periodically penetrate the goods for the purpose of forming stitches,

as will be readily understood, the thread carried by the needle being interlocked, so to speak, with the thread carried by the shuttle 4|.

Usually, in the formation of stitches, the needle thread simply goes back and forth across the seam, but in sewing or stitching braided material, it is desirable to manipulate the needle in such fashion that the needle thread in the finished seam will lie parallel, and substantially in line with, the ends or threads constituting the braided fabric. To accomplish this, it is necessary, therefore, to move the needle in such fashion that each time it penetrates the goods, it will be positioned both transversely and longitudinally of the seam from the previous point at which it penetrated the goods. Hence, the mounting of the reciprocating needle arm 49 in the pivoted bearing members 50. In other words, the needle is pivoted in such fashion that it is capable of being needle arm 49, between the two bearings 50, is

asleeve 60, and said sleeve carries a post 6| on .which is journaled one end of a link 62, the opposite end of said link being pivotally attached to one arm of a lever 63. Lever 63 is pivoted intermediate its ends at I64 and its opposite arm 63a is pivotally attached to a connecting rod 64 which carries a pin 65 having a T-shaped head 66 engaging in an arcuate slot 61 of T-shaped crosssection formed in "a block '68 pivoted at 69 in the main frame. Block 68 is pivoted at its upper end and at its lower end it carries a pin 10 which projects into a cam slot in a cam H in the interior of the machine frame. The inner extremity of pin 10 carries a roller which engages the walls of a cam slot in cam II and said cam is mounted on a shaft 12 carrying a gear 13 which meshes with a gear I4 on the main drive shaft 34. In other words, the crank portion 59 of the main aooaevo i 3 drive shaft 34, through the pitman 58 and rock lever 58 reciprocates the needle so as to cause it to penetrate the goods while the rotation of shaft I2 and gears I3, I4, causes the needle to be rocked back and forth about the pivot pin 5| through the instrumentalities just described, the timing of the several parts being such that this rocking motion is imparted to the'needle during the time it is disengaged from the goods.

It is, of course, necessary that the shuttle should also move transversely of the seam being formed, in order that it shall always be in operative associationwith the needle. For this purpose, the pin 85 extends through a bushing I5 on which the link 64 is journaled and also journaled on said bushing is a second link I6 whose opposite end has attached thereto one arm 11 of a lever pivoted at 1.8, the other arm I9 of said lever projecting through an opening 88 in the main frame and having at its extremity a roller 8I which engages between stops 82 on the shuttle shaft 48, whereby rocking motion of sfild levers 11, I8, will cause said shuttle shaft to be reciprocated in its bearings, it beingunderstood, of course, that this reciprocatory motion of the shuttle shaft is properly timed with respect to the rocking motion imparted to the needle 48, as just described.

One use to which the present machine is especially adapted is the production of ladies hats which are made from a continuous strip of braided material laid in spirals or convolutions with adjacent convolutions attached to each other by stitching. In forming these hat bodies, it is quite difficult to form what is called the button" in the crown of the hat, unless the operator can turn the fabric or material during the sewing operation. For this reason, the present machine 1 comprises means for automatically relieving the tension on the presser foot during the intervals when the needle is in engagement inthe goods. In the preferred construction, the presser foot 83 is mounted on the lowerextremity of a bar 84, slidably mounted in the depending portion 33 of the frame, the upper extremity of said bar projecting somewhat above the frame and having mounted thereon a block 85, on which there is pivoted a cam member 86, adapted to engage the upper surface of the frame, so as to elevate the presser foot when desired. That is, the cam member 86 can be turned on its pivot so that the caniming action will raise the presser foot out of its operative position. This, however, is simply for the purpose of elevating the presser foot only when the latter is to be temporarily rendered totally inoperative. Normally, the presser foot is urged downwardly into operative engagement with goods on the work support by a spring 8'I positioned between a stop 88 on 'the presser foot bar 84 and the inner surface of the frame 33. The presser foot is provided with a slot 48a through which the needle may be projected. To intermittently relieve the tensionon the presser foot, there is slidably mounted in the frame 33 a pin 89 engageable by one arm of a lever 98 pivoted on a post QI in the end closure 33a of the frame portion 33. The other arm of said lever 98 is pivotally attached to a link 82, and the latter, in turn, is pivoted, at 93, to an arm 94 journaled on the hub 56a of the rock lever 56. Said hub is provided with a recess 58b adapted to be engaged by a pin 95 slidably mounted'in the arm 94 and yieldingly urged toward said hub by a spring 96. The pin 95 is provided with a knurled head 91 and with projections, or lugs, in the form of a cross-pin 98 capable of engaging in a slot 99 in the end of arm 84, so that, if desired, the arm 94 may be disconnected from the bushing 56a by withdrawing the pin and turning it so that the cross-pin 88 is out of registry with slot 99. However, so long as the pin 85 is entered in the recess 58b in the hub of the rock lever 58, the rocking motion of the rock lever will cause lever 98 to be rocked, so that each time that arm of lever 98 which is in engagement with pin 89 is raised, said pin will be pushed upwardly into engagement with the under face of block 85 on the upper extremity of presser foot bar 84, thereby elevating the presser foot temporarily. This upward motion of the operative arm of lever'98 to elevate the presser foot willbe effected by link 92, when the left-hand end (as viewed in Fig. 2) of rocker arm 56 is depressed, or, in other words, when the needle is depressed into engagement with the goods on the work support. Therefore, each time the needle penetrates the goods, the presser foot is raised, or the tension thereon relieved, so that the operator is free to turn the goods as he wishes. As mentioned thisis important in the formation of the so-called button in the crown of a hat.

The work is adapted to be fed along the work supporting surface 38 by a feed roller I88 intermittently rotated by mechanism which will be later described. Referring to Figs. 12 and 13,

the work support is provided with suitable guides for the work to be fed under the presser foot. Preferably, these guide means consist of a comparatively thin strip of metal arranged on its edge, as indicated at I8I, said guide or strip being pivoted at I82, whereby it may be raised or swung away from the work surface. A second guide member I83, which yieldingly urges work toward the guide member I8I by meansof spring I84 mounted thereon, is also positioned on the work surface. This guide member I83 is provided with a lateral extension I85 in which there is an elongated slot I86 for reception of a guide block I81, the guide block being secured to the frame by a screw I88. Guide I83 is also formed with a projection I 89, through which extends a guide bar II8 mounted in the guide block I81. The lower edge of the lateral extension I85 is formed with a rack III adapted to engage with a pinion II2 on the sleeve-like hub II3 of a knurled roller II 4 journaled on a stub shaft H5 projecting outwardly from the frame. The latera1 extension I85 is adapted to slide on its guide block, so that by turning the knurled roller H4 in one direction or the other, the guide member I83 may be adjusted toward or away from the guide member IIlI to accommodate goods of various widths.

For intermittently rotating the feed roller I88, there is mounted on the shuttle shaft 48 a cam member H6, which is engaged by the bifurcated end of a lever III, pivoted on a shaft II8 journaled in a bracket I I 9 at the side of the machine. Adjustably secured in a slot I28 in lever III is connecting link I2I, which is pivotally attached, at I22, to a lever I23 adapted to actuate an overrunning clutch arrangement for driving the shaft which carries the feed roller. Thisclutch arrangement consists of a clutch member I24 mounted on a shaft I25, and having associated with it a series of frictional driving elements, preferably in the form of ball bearings I26, said clutch member and its frictional drive elements being received in ,circular recesses in lever I23 and casting I35. Also mounted on shaft I25 is a pinion I21, which engages a gear I28, and the latter engages a pinion I29 mounted on the shaft I30 of the feed roller I00. The disposition of the balls I26 in the cavity in lever I23 is such that a gripping action will be exerted by the lever on the clutch member when said lever is moved in one direction so as to rotate shaft I25, but, when the lever is moved in the opposite directioni it will slip or ride over the balls I26. In other words, as the end of lever I23, to which link I2I is connected, is elevated, it will slide over the balls I26, the latter being cushioned against springs I3I, and no motion will be imparted to shaft' I25, but, as that end of the lever is de-' pressed, the balls I26 will be wedged between the wall of the recess in the lever and the inclined surfaces I32 of clutch member I24, so-as to rotate shaft I25 and pinion I21 in the direction of the arrow in Fig. 16. This motion of shaft I25 and pinion I21 will impart motion to gears I28, I29, and shaft I30, as also indicated by the arrows in Fig. 16. By adjusting link I2I in slot I20 of lever II 1, the extent to which the work is fed each time may 'be varied to .alter the inclination of each pair of juxtaposed stitches. It must not, however, be possible for the feed roller I00 to be rotated in the opposite direction. For this purpose, clutch member I24 is provided with a second series of balls I33 interposed between inclined surfaces I34 on the clutch member and the wall of the circular recess in the portion I35 of the frame; It will be seen how this second series of balls prevent backward motion, so to speak, of shaft I21. That is, if there is any tendency on the part of the clutch member I24 to rotate when the end of lever I23 which is connected to link I2I is elevated, the balls I33 will bind between their inclined surfaces I34 and the inner; surface of a casting I35, and thus prevent such backward motion of the clutch mem-- ber I24 and shaft I25. Consequently, the feed roller I00 will be intermittently rotated only in the direction in which the material is to be fed across the working surface. it will be observed that with the feed roller shaft I30 journaled in fixed bearings there is no movement of the feed roller I00'toward and'away from the work as in the case of the usual type of feed dog used in sewing machines. This results in a more positive feeding of the material so that the material can be fed a very short distance each time the feed roller is turned. A very advantageous feature of such a construction is that the individual stitches can be formed very close to each other. In fact, each successive stitch can be made to abut each preceding stitch. While this is very important in working on closely braided fabrics, it will be appreciated that the arrangement is applicable under other conditions where a maximum number of. stitches is desired in a minimum imit of length of material.

To assist in feeding the thread to the tension roller I36, there is mounted on the main drive shaft a cam I31, having a cam slot I38 therein, which receives a cam roller I 33, said cam roller being join'naled on a pin at the lower extremity of a lever I40, pivoted at the side of the machine. Pivotally attached to said lever I40 isa connecting link I which also isattached to one arm of abell crank lever I42,'pivoted at I43, and

whose other arm is provided at its extremity I44 with an eye, which serves as a guide for the thread. Rocking motion imparted to the end I44 aooas'ze of the bell crank lever by the connections just described, intermittently feeds the thread to the tensioning roller I36 from whence it passes to the eye of the needle .48.

Assuming the machine to be threaded up and the guide members IM and I 03 properly positioned with respect to the work support and presser foot, a cycle of operations of the machine will now be described. Starting with the needle and shuttle in the positions in which they are shown in Figs. 1 and 2, and referring particularly to Fig. 2, continuation of the rotary motion of the main drive shaft 34 in a clockwise direction, as-indicated by the arrow in Fig. 2, will result in the continued rotation of cam H in a counter-clockwise direction, with the result that the slotted member 68 towhich connecting rods 64 and 16 are attached will be rocked to the right. This movement of said connecting rods will rock levers 63 and 11, so as to move the shuttle to the left, or to what will be termedthe left-hand side of the seam being formed, and will also rock the needle supporting bearings 50 to also carry the needle to the left-hand side of the seam. At the same time, rocker arm 56 is rocked, so that the needle 48 is depressed downwardly through the arcuate needle slots 48a, 48b, in the presser foot and work supporting surface. As the needle 48 approaches the lower extremity of its movement, the link 92 will rock the bell crank lever to relieve the tension on the presser foot. The several parts-are shown in this position in Figs. 8 and 9, the needle 48 being shown at the lefthand end of slot 48a. At this time, the position of the rocker arm 56 will be reversed-from that shownin Fig. 2, but, upon continued rotation of the drive shaft 34, the rocker arm will be restored to the position shown in Fig. 2, so as to fully elevate the needle but the ratio of gears 13,

14, is such that cam 1I will have made only a half revolution, so that, during the next complete revolution of gear 14, cam 1I will cause the levers 63 and 11 to be rocked in the opposite direction whereupon the shuttle shaft will be restricted to position the shuttle under the right-hand side of the seam being formed and to position the needle 48 in registry with the opposite end of the arcuate slot 48a in the presser foot, as shown in Figs. 10 and 11, so that, by the time it engages the goods,

it will penetrate the goods at the right-hand side of the seam. As previously pointed out, this movement of the needle from the left-hand side of the seam to the right-hand side of the seam will also effect a movement of the needle longitudinally of the seam, so that the stitch thereupon formed across the seam will extend diagonally of the seam and substantially iri line with the ends, of threads, of the braided fabric. This result is clearly shown in Figs. 24 and 25, Fig. 24 illustrating a series of convolutions-of braided material stitched together, as in the case.of forming a hat, and Fig. 25 illustrating aseam between two pieces of braided material. As previously pointed out, it will also be understood that the pin and 'slot connectionabetween pitman 42 and slot 44in the enlargement 45 of the shuttle shaft 40 and the pivotal mounting of pitman 42, at 46, is such that timing of the shuttle shaft will insure the proper dwell in the rotary motion of the shuttle at the time the needle penetrates the goods. It might be shaft, a shuttle mounted on said shaft, means The pivot pin for the guide bearings 50 is carried by the plate 52 and the latter is provided with a curved surface bearing against a similarly curved surface on the depending portion 33 of the frame, the plate being held in any desired position on the curved surface of the frame by means of screw bolt I45. By relieving the clamping action of the bolt I45, the plate 52 may be adjusted on the cruved surface of the frame 33 so as to vary the inclination of the stitch formed in the goods. Referring to Fig. 14, for instance, if the plate 52 is adjusted to move pivot pin to the left, or toward the line in which the seam in. the goods is formed, a flatter stitch will be made, as shown in Fig. 25. On the other hand, if the plate is adjusted to move the pivot pin toward the right,

' or away from, the line of the seam being formed, a

greater angle is given to the stitch, as shown in Fig. 24.

The article produced on the present machine is not claimed herein, having been made the subjectmatter of a separate application.

What I claim is:

1. In a sewing machine, the combination of a support on which work is fed, a sewing needle, a presser foot having a slot thereon, means for projecting and retracting said needle through said slot and work, means for advancing the work each time the needle is retracted, said slot extending diagonally of the line of movement of work fed along said support, and means for reciprocating said needle longitudinally of said slot.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work support, a sewing needle, a bobbin, means for actuating said needle to penetrate work on said support, means for advancing the Work each time the needle is withdrawn therefrom, means for movingsaid needle transversely and longitudinally of the seam formed by the needle in the work, a rotatable shuttle, and means for reciprocatingsaid shuttle transversely of the seam in timed relation to the transverse movement of the needle.

3. In a sewing machine, a pivoted needle support, a needle, means for reciprocating said needle in its support, a presser foot having a slot therein, said slot extending diagonally of the seam formed by the reciprocating needle, and means for rocking the needle support to move the needle longitudinally of said slot.

4. In a sewing machine, a, work support, a needle, means for actuating said needle to penetrate work on said support and form a seam therein, means for advancing the work each time the needle is withdrawn therefrom, a rotatable shuttle for reciprocating said shaft transversely of a seam formed'in the work, and means for moving said needle transversely'and longitudinally of said seam in timed relation to the reciprocation of said shuttle shaft.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination of a drive shaft, a pivoted needle support, a needle in said support, a shuttle, a feed roller, means operable by said shaft for rocking said support to move the needle transversely and longitudinally I operable bysaid shaft for intermittently rotating said feed roller.

6. In a sewing machine, the combination of a drive shaft, a needle, a shuttle, a pair of levers, connections between one of said levers and said needle, connections between the other of said levers and said shuttle, and means on said shaft for rocking said levers to move said needle transversely and longitudinally of a seam formed thereby and to move said shuttle transversely of said seam.

7. In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle, a shuttle, a pair of levers, connections between one lever and said needle, connections between'the other lever and said shuttle, and means for rocking said levers to move said needle transversely and longitudinally'of a seam formed thereby and for reciprocating said shuttle transversely of said seam.

8. In a sewing machine, the combination of a sewing needle, meansfor reciprocating said needle to penetrate the work, means for moving said.

needle to successive positions at opposite sides of a seam formed in the work and spaced longitudinally of said seam independently of any movement of the work, and means for advancing the work each time the needle is retracted from the work.

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