US2001289A - Shoe sewing machine - Google Patents
Shoe sewing machine Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- US2001289A US2001289A US705404A US70540434A US2001289A US 2001289 A US2001289 A US 2001289A US 705404 A US705404 A US 705404A US 70540434 A US70540434 A US 70540434A US 2001289 A US2001289 A US 2001289A
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- US
- United States
- Prior art keywords
- lever
- sole
- work
- sewing
- presser foot
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
Links
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 title description 50
- 239000011324 bead Substances 0.000 description 20
- 230000006835 compression Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000007906 compression Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000000994 depressogenic effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000011435 rock Substances 0.000 description 2
- 241000906091 Lethrinus miniatus Species 0.000 description 1
- 238000010009 beating Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000881 depressing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006073 displacement reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009499 grossing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012729 immediate-release (IR) formulation Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010985 leather Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000465 moulding Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920000136 polysorbate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000003014 reinforcing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000284 resting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000979 retarding effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B15/00—Machines for sewing leather goods
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B29/00—Pressers; Presser feet
- D05B29/06—Presser feet
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B73/00—Casings
- D05B73/04—Lower casings
- D05B73/12—Slides; Needle plates
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
- D05D2303/00—Applied objects or articles
- D05D2303/02—Tape
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
- D05D2303/00—Applied objects or articles
- D05D2303/08—Cordage
Definitions
- the present invention is concerned with improvenients in or relating to the manufacture of footwear and sewing machines suitable for use therefor.
- the invention has particular reference to means for producing an article of footwear simulating in appearance, and having the qualities of, the so-called Sahara sandal while obvlating the thonging together by a lace or thong, of the upper and sole which has ordinarily characterized that sandal and which has usually been a tedious and slow hand operation and therefore costly and generally objectionable to footwear manufacturers.
- the invention is hereinafter illustratively described with reference to the sewing together by means of a specially organized curved hooked needle lockstitch sewing machine of an upper having a bead around its margin anda sole having an upturned marginal portion having a flange turned outwardly therefrom, the stitching passing through said flange and through the upper adjacent to the bead which serves to conceal it in the finished shoe.
- the special organization of the machine may comprise the provision of a presser foot-which is suitably grooved to receive the bead on the Lipper and a work positioning member adapted to engage the work at the interior of the shoe.
- the presser foot has a substantial degree of extension along the line of work feed and has a slot formed therein through which the needle operates.
- the machine may be provided with suitable stopping andstarting mechanism to Venable the operator accurately to control the sewing operation by sewing, according as he desires, either a succession of stitches or only a single stitch at a time.
- treadle or like means upon actuation of which at the conclusion of a sewing operation the presser foot is raised from the work and only after the presser foot has started to rise, needle thread locking means of the machine, which means is in locking position when sewing stops, is released.
- Figure 1 is a right hand side elevational view of the head portion of a curved hooked needle lockstitch sewing ing-ichinev of the general nature of that disclosed in -U. S. Letters Patent-to French and Meyer No. 473,870 dated April .26, 1892, butrequipped with novel parts to enable it to perform thel sewing of an outwardly directed flange moulded'on the periphery of vthe -rimof a Sahara sandaltype of sole to albeaded upper;
- Figure 2 is a right hand side elevational View of certain parts seenin Figure 1 drawn Vto a larger scale than Figure l and indicating ⁇ a sole and upper in position for being sewn together;
- Figure 3 is aV front elevational Viewv of certain ofthe sewing instrumentalities and work engaging parts of the machine
- Figure 4 is a perspective View of the work table of the machine
- Figure 5v is a perspective View ofthe presser footY of the machine
- Figure 6 is a detail sectional view of engaging roll ofthe machine.
- Figure 7 is a perspective view of a type 'of Sahara sandal for the sewing together ofthe sole and upper of which the machine shown vin- Figure 1 is well adapted, the shoe being shown as it appears immediately after the sewing operation; and v Figure 8 is a cross-sectional View of the shoe shown in Figure 7, taken along -the line rVIII- VIIIin Figure'. y
- a typefof Sahara sandal with'the sewing together ofthe upper and sole of which the present invention is particularly concerned, comprises va sole I having an upstanding rim 3, moulded' all .around it.
- the upperedge of the rim 3 is turned out# wardly (all around the rim) to form a ilange 5 which is substantially parallel to the marginal portion of the sole tread.
- the sole is moulded to the form just mentioned in oneV operation by moulding between suitably shaped co-operating moulds.
- the upper of the sandal is conveniently formed of two separate portions, a toe portion l and a heel portion 9.
- the porL tions 'i and 9 of the upper have each sewn to their lower edges (while the portions 'l rand i! are in the loose state) a bead Il (best shown in Figure 8) which may consist of a thin leather strip folded around a reinforcing cord.
- the two end portions ofthe bead attached to the toe portion 'l of the upper project for some distancebeyond Vthe ends of the por- 5.5'
- VVVof the general character of the machine disclosed in the patentmto French and Meyer above referred to, to which reference may be made for afull description of parts not herein specifically referred to.
- the machine comprises acurved hookf-needle I5, a needle guide l1, an awl, 1B, a looper 2l, a take-up 23, awork table 25 andV a presser foot ,21;
- the machinel is equipped with treadle actuated stopping and starting mechanism (not shown) ofwell known character so that theV operator may ⁇ either, according as he desires, sew a succession of stitches orA when ⁇ proceeding more carefully sew only a single stitch at a time.
- ⁇ 'lhework table 25 of the machine is of usual type except that as seen in Figure 4, the front wall 29 is preferably quite thin. This allows a seam to ,be sewn quite close to the apex of the angle between the flange 5 and the rim 3 when Work is presented to the machine, as is indicated irl-" Figure 2.
- FIG. 5 Its work engaging portion has a substantial degree ofY extension along the line of feed and through this portionthere is formed a slot 3i extending in the direction of feed and corresponding generally to the slot inthe work table ⁇ 25.'
- the needle andv awl Voperate through the slot 3l and the portion 33 ⁇ of the presser foot between the forward wallof the slot andthe front/face of the presser foot acts during sewing as a guard to shield the upper from damage by the needle orawl.
- Y Y j Along the under face of the presser foot with its axisto the rear of the longitudinal median line of the slot 3
- this groove servesto engage the'bead H on the upper to position the bead during sewing. is preferably slightly in excess of that, of the bead.
- the lower face of the portie-11,33 of the presser foot is well below the ⁇ level of the highest part of the groove-35 so'that the portion 33 of the., presser foot enters nwell intothe crease beuniformly at the crease last referred to.
- hornarrangement is of a similar general nature to the horn arrangement disclosed in U. S. Patent, to Ricks and Reid No. 1,695,718 dated December 18, 19:28, 'The horn'arrangement is supported by two arms 31 (one of which is seen in Figure 1) secured by bolts 39v to the frame 4
- the topiends ofthe arms ⁇ 31 support a' horizontal shaft 43.
- a bracket 451s pivotally mounted on the shaft 43 and rigidly securedto a forward face of this bracket is a bearing member 41.
- vA shaft 49 which is inclined at a smallangle to the vertical (its upper end being slightly nearer to the back of the machine than its lowerend) is journalled in the bearing mem- Vbolts 53 a horn 55.
- VThe upper end of the shaft 49 isx'threaded and has upon it a nut 51. This nut is adjusted so that although the .shaft 49 can turn in the bearing member 41 it is not capable of :moving axially with relation thereto.
- thel horn 55 is approximately C-shaped and carries at its lower end a Work positioning member in the form ofa roll 59 which isadapted to engage the work at the interior of the shoe.
- This roll comprises (see Figure 6) a metal hub 6
- a solid rubber tyre S5 about one inch and a quarter in diameter h f hths" f h thick.
- the presser foot 21 is shown particularly in ⁇ and Some t ree elg o an me head of the screw 63 is countersunk into the hub 5l so that a smooth flat lower face is presented by the roll towards the inner face of the sole during sewing.
- the periphery of the rubber tyre B5 ls suitably contoured to cooperate (as shown in Figs ure 2) with the inner face of the sole rim s in holding the outer face of the rim against the front face of the'work table'25 as the sole is fed past the sewing point with its flange 5 resting on the upper surface of the work table 25.
- the height of the roll 59 is such that its area of contact with theV inner surface of the rim 3 of the sole vis about on the samelevel as the area of contact of thelfront face of the work table 25 vwith the outer surface of the rim.
- the bracket 45 has a rearwardly ,extendingV arm 61 on which is trunnioned a block 69 through which passes a rod 1l having', above'the block, an adjusting nut 13 and a lock nut 15 threaded upon it, and below the block acompression Spring 11 mounted upon it and confined between theblock and a collar 19.
- is pivotally connectedA at its lower end to a lever 80 which is oscillated from a cam on the cam shaft 8l of the machine. This causes a swinging motionk of the bracket 45 about the shaft 43 and so of the roll-59 about the same axis.
- the distance between the roll 59 and the shaft 4S is such that since the movement of the'roll between its extreme positions is very small, being conveniently about one sixteenth of an inch, this movement is practically in a straight line towards and away from the work.
- the timing of the cam just mentioned is such that while the roll is maintained in the work clamping position shown in Figure 2 for the major portion of a stitch forming cycle of the machine it is moved forwardly away from the work table 25 while the awl I9 is feeding the work and so cannot exercise a retarding action on the feed.
- AIt has already been mentioned that the machine is tted with a starting and stopping mechanism which is such that the sewing instrumentalities on stopping always come to rest in the same positions, these being such that the needle I is withdrawn upwardly from the work, the awl I9 is withdrawn downwardly from the work, the presser foot 2'I is in engagement with the work and the roll 59 is in its rearward work clamping position. Further at the stopping position the needle thread lock, which is of well known form, is operative to prevent thread being withdrawn from the thread supply.
- the machine is provided with a treadle upon one continued depression of which the presser foot is first unlocked, then it is raised, then after the presser foot has risen slightly the thread lock is released and finally the roll 59 is withdrawn forwardly from the sole enabling the work to be easily removed.
- This treadle is not itself shown in the drawings but it is connected to a treadle rod 83, depression of the treadle causing depression of the treadle rod which is normally spring pressed upwardly.
- the presser foot 27 is carried at the forward end portion of a bent lever 85 pivoted towards its middle upon a stud 81 carried by the frame.
- the rear end portion of the lever 85 has secured to it a rack. S9 and the teeth of this rack are adapted to be engaged by two-three-toothed pawls 9
- the teeth of the pawl 93 are displaced from the teeth of the pawl 9
- the lever 85 has pivoted to it at 95 another lever 97.
- the lever 97 has a lug 99 projecting from it, and through a hole in this lug passes a rod IQI, the lower end of which is pivoted to the lever 85 at IIJ-3.
- the rod ISI has mounted upon it above the lug 99 a sleeve
- the arrangement is euch that the presser foot 2 is continually urged against the work by a compression spring (not shown but corresponding to the spring referred to as 11,6 in patent to French and Meyer No. 474,774) which is usually adjusted to giveonly quite a weak pressure of the foot on thework.
- the spring just referred to is connected to the lever 85 through a frame (not shown but corresponding to the frame referred to as ⁇ f in patent to French and Meyer No. 474,774) which is pivoted on a boss 523 on the lever 85.
- the presser foot 27 sho-uid not be pressed hard against the work during that portion of a stitch forming cycle of the machine in which the awl I 9 is feeding the work, and the cam lever I I'I is so actuated that during work feed, both the pawls 9
- a hand lever I S3 is provided.
- This lever is pivoted at 35 on a fixed arm
- Rigidly connected with the hand lever is an elbow lever I39.
- 39 has ⁇ a forwardly projecting portion Id! which engages a cam face on a lever
- 43 is a fork member I'I.
- 49 of the form member I 47 is slotted at its rearward Yend and the slot embraces a pin I5! on the pawl 9
- 35, etc. has previously been employed on4 sewing machines of the general nature of that disclosed in the patents to French and Meyer above referred to and in itself forms no part of the pres- We have now arranged however that the presser foot is unlocked and raised on depression of the treadle hereinbefore referred to.
- the treadle rod 83 has a collar
- the treadle rod 83 passes through a fork at the forward end of a lever
- 53 has secured to it a portion
- 55 is pivoted at
- the arrangement is such that on depression of the treadle rod 83 the collar
- 11 is pivoted on a horizontal shaft
- 85 is actuated from a cam in the same manner as is described with reference -to corresponding parts 'in the specification of Letters Patent No. 473,870.
- 85 has a lever ISI loosely pivoted thereon.
- is connected by a pivoted link
- when swung clockwise as seen in Figure 1 is adapted to contact with the arm
- the treadle rod 33 has an eye Hill/formed upon it at its top end which ⁇ embraces a pin
- has a lug 283 formed upon it which after the treadle rod has been depressed through some distance (to unlock the presser foot and release the thread lock) is adapted to contact with a lug 255 formed on the rearwardly extenda ing arm 51 of the bracket 435. Further depression of the treadle rod then causes the bracket i5 to be swung clockwise, as seen in Figure l, about the horizontal shaft 53 which results in the roll 59 being withdrawn forwardly from the work.
- depression of the treadle which is connected to the stopping andl starting mechanism will cause the machine to begin sewing a lockstitch seam (indicated at 261 in Figure 8) to unite the sole and upper, the needle entering the upper before it enters the sole.
- the stopping and starting mechanism is such that a depression and immediate release of the treadle last referred to causes the machine to sew one stitch only but if this treadle be ⁇ retained depressed the machine will continue to sew a succession of stitches until the treadle is released.
- a last may be inserted in the shoe and the bead i i on the upper subjected to a smoothing or beating operation whereby it is pressed up closely towards the upper to conceal the sewing 2i?? while the edge of the flange 5 of the sole may be trimmed more closely up to the sewing 2M, preferably to a somewhat rounded form.
- a shoe sewing machine for sewing the lower edge of an upper to the out-turned flange formed on a rim upstanding from the tread portion ofthe sole having, in combination with the stitch forming devices, a work support shaped and arranged to support the outturned iiange of the shoe sole, a presser foot cooperating with the work support to clamp the upper and ange intermittently, a horn extending into the shoe and pressing the rim of the shoe sole against the edge of the work support, and means for moving the horn away from the work support during each stitch forming cycle to facilitate feeding of the work;
- a shoe sewing machine for sewing the lower edge of an upper to the out-turned ange formed on a rim upstanding from the tread portion of the sole having, in combination with the stitch forming devices, a work support shaped and arranged to support the out-turned iiange of the shoe sole, a presser foot cooperating with the work support to clamp the upper and flange intermittently, a horn extending into the shoe provided at its inner end with a roll arranged to pressthe rim of the sole against the edge of the work support, and means for supporting the horn so as to be capable of a movement of rotation about an axis coincident with the axis of the roll.
- a shoe sewing machine for sewing the lower edge of an upper to the out-turned iiange formed on a rim upstanding from the tread portion of the sole having, in combination with the stitch forming devices, a work support shaped and arranged to support the outturned iiange of the shoe sole, a presser foot cooperating with the work support to clamp the upper and flange intermittently, a horn extending into the shoe and pressing the rim of the shoe sole against the edge of the work support, and means operable upon stopping the machine to lift the presser foot and move the horn away from the work support.
- a shoe sewing machine for sewing the lower edge of an upper to the out-turned fiange formed on a rim upstanding from the tread portion of the sole having, in combination with the stitch forming devices, a work support shaped and arranged to support the out-turned nange of the shoe sole, a presser foot cooperating with the work support to clamp the upper and flange intermittently, a horn extending into the shoe and pressing the rim of the shoe .sole against the edge of the work support, and a treadle and suitable connections acting when actuated to lift the presser foot from the work and thereafter continue the lifting movement of the presser foot and move the horn away from the work support.
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
- Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
Description
May 14, 1935. C 'QSHEFFIELD ET A1. 2,001,289
A sHoE SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. 5, 1954 l 3 sheets-sheet 1 sa 101. 171 157l 1.55
141 139 l 55 1 /115 g 1:/ 125 1.15 121 l, r Y.
131 127 Re :F0 1" f n las. Wns 9 143 1.4/6 157 155/1214'l-9/ /1 --129 Y f/c Vm W @9 1 M l and 1 91 y 151 119l @wey/@1 May 14, 1935- c. c. SHEFFIELD ET Al. I 2,001,289
` Y SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. 5, 1954 5 sheets-sheet' 2 mess Ive/mp5 May 14, 1935- c. c. sHEFFlELD ET Al. 2,001,289
` SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. 5, 192,4y s sheets-sheet s #amm @742% Patented May 14,l 1935 rios SHOE SEWING MACHINE New Jersey Application January 5,
1934, serial No. 705,404
In Great Britain January 7, 1933 4 Claims.
The present invention is concerned with improvenients in or relating to the manufacture of footwear and sewing machines suitable for use therefor. The invention has particular reference to means for producing an article of footwear simulating in appearance, and having the qualities of, the so-called Sahara sandal while obvlating the thonging together by a lace or thong, of the upper and sole which has ordinarily characterized that sandal and which has usually been a tedious and slow hand operation and therefore costly and generally objectionable to footwear manufacturers. .The invention is hereinafter illustratively described with reference to the sewing together by means of a specially organized curved hooked needle lockstitch sewing machine of an upper having a bead around its margin anda sole having an upturned marginal portion having a flange turned outwardly therefrom, the stitching passing through said flange and through the upper adjacent to the bead which serves to conceal it in the finished shoe. As hereinafter illustratively described, the special organization of the machine may comprise the provision of a presser foot-which is suitably grooved to receive the bead on the Lipper and a work positioning member adapted to engage the work at the interior of the shoe. Conveniently also the presser foot has a substantial degree of extension along the line of work feed and has a slot formed therein through which the needle operates. Further, the machine may be provided with suitable stopping andstarting mechanism to Venable the operator accurately to control the sewing operation by sewing, according as he desires, either a succession of stitches or only a single stitch at a time. Yet again, it is convenient, as hereinafter explained to provide the machine with treadle or like means upon actuation of which at the conclusion of a sewing operation the presser foot is raised from the work and only after the presser foot has started to rise, needle thread locking means of the machine, which means is in locking position when sewing stops, is released.
The various objects of the invention and the several features thereof will becomes evident to those skilled inthe art from the lfollowing description, given with reference to the accompanying' drawings, of an illustrative organization of a curved hooked needle lockstitch sewing machine to enable it to perform the sewing togather of an upper and a sole of the characters already indicated, while the said features are clearly set out in the appended claims,
In the accompanying drawings:
Figure 1 is a right hand side elevational view of the head portion of a curved hooked needle lockstitch sewing ing-ichinev of the general nature of that disclosed in -U. S. Letters Patent-to French and Meyer No. 473,870 dated April .26, 1892, butrequipped with novel parts to enable it to perform thel sewing of an outwardly directed flange moulded'on the periphery of vthe -rimof a Sahara sandaltype of sole to albeaded upper; l Figure 2 is a right hand side elevational View of certain parts seenin Figure 1 drawn Vto a larger scale than Figure l and indicating `a sole and upper in position for being sewn together;
Figure 3 is aV front elevational Viewv of certain ofthe sewing instrumentalities and work engaging parts of the machine;
Figure 4 is a perspective View of the work table of the machine; Y
Figure 5v is a perspective View ofthe presser footY of the machine;
Figure 6 is a detail sectional view of engaging roll ofthe machine;` l
Figure 7 is a perspective view of a type 'of Sahara sandal for the sewing together ofthe sole and upper of which the machine shown vin- Figure 1 is well adapted, the shoe being shown as it appears immediately after the sewing operation; and v Figure 8 is a cross-sectional View of the shoe shown in Figure 7, taken along -the line rVIII- VIIIinFigure'. y
Referring first to Figures '7 and 8; a typefof Sahara sandal, with'the sewing together ofthe upper and sole of which the present invention is particularly concerned, comprises va sole I having an upstanding rim 3, moulded' all .around it. The upperedge of the rim 3 is turned out# wardly (all around the rim) to form a ilange 5 which is substantially parallel to the marginal portion of the sole tread. Conveniently the sole is moulded to the form just mentioned in oneV operation by moulding between suitably shaped co-operating moulds. The upper of the sandal is conveniently formed of two separate portions, a toe portion l and a heel portion 9.` The porL tions 'i and 9 of the upper have each sewn to their lower edges (while the portions 'l rand i! are in the loose state) a bead Il (best shown in Figure 8) which may consist of a thin leather strip folded around a reinforcing cord. As shown in Figure 8, the two end portions ofthe bead attached to the toe portion 'l of the upper project for some distancebeyond Vthe ends of the por- 5.5'
a Aworl;
Cil
`'lhework table 25 of the machine is of usual type except that as seen in Figure 4, the front wall 29 is preferably quite thin. This allows a seam to ,be sewn quite close to the apex of the angle between the flange 5 and the rim 3 when Work is presented to the machine, as is indicated irl-"Figure 2.
Figure 5. Its work engaging portion has a substantial degree ofY extension along the line of feed and through this portionthere is formed a slot 3i extending in the direction of feed and corresponding generally to the slot inthe work table `25.' The needle andv awl Voperate through the slot 3l and the portion 33` of the presser foot between the forward wallof the slot andthe front/face of the presser foot acts during sewing as a guard to shield the upper from damage by the needle orawl. Y Y j Along the under face of the presser foot with its axisto the rear of the longitudinal median line of the slot 3| there is formed a groove 35 of substantially semi-circular cross-section which extends in the direction of feed from end to end ofthe work engaging face of the presserfoot. As yis shown in Figure 2, this groove servesto engage the'bead H on the upper to position the bead during sewing. is preferably slightly in excess of that, of the bead. The lower face of the portie-11,33 of the presser foot is well below the `level of the highest part of the groove-35 so'that the portion 33 of the., presser foot enters nwell intothe crease beuniformly at the crease last referred to.
In sewing the sole The diameter of the groove tween the bead and the upper proper and holds the upper down towards the flange 5 on the sole at a little distance from the bead held by the groove. Thus a free passage is ensured for the needle and awl between the bead and upper (somewhat tensioned away from the bead by the portion 33 of the presser footyso that the needle and `awl` can penetrate the Aupper reliably and The opposite ends of the groove 35 in the presser foot are conveniently rounded off somewhat'so that there is a smoothed (and not a sharply angled) entry into and exit Yfrom the groove for the bead at the opposite'ends of the presser foot.
To assist in supporting and positioning vthe work during'sewing, the machine is provided with a horn arrangement clearly ShOWn in Figure 1- This. hornarrangement is of a similar general nature to the horn arrangement disclosed in U. S. Patent, to Ricks and Reid No. 1,695,718 dated December 18, 19:28, 'The horn'arrangement is supported by two arms 31 (one of which is seen in Figure 1) secured by bolts 39v to the frame 4| ofthe machine. The topiends ofthe arms `31 support a' horizontal shaft 43. A bracket 451s pivotally mounted on the shaft 43 and rigidly securedto a forward face of this bracket is a bearing member 41. vA shaft 49, which is inclined at a smallangle to the vertical (its upper end being slightly nearer to the back of the machine than its lowerend) is journalled in the bearing mem- Vbolts 53 a horn 55. VThe upper end of the shaft 49 isx'threaded and has upon it a nut 51. This nut is adjusted so that although the .shaft 49 can turn in the bearing member 41 it is not capable of :moving axially with relation thereto. As is seenr in Figure 1, thel horn 55 is approximately C-shaped and carries at its lower end a Work positioning member in the form ofa roll 59 which isadapted to engage the work at the interior of the shoe. This roll comprises (see Figure 6) a metal hub 6| rotatably mounted on a screw 63, the axis of 'which is in line with the axis of the shaft 49, in threaded relation with the lower end of the horn 55. On the hub 6l is carried a solid rubber tyre S5 about one inch and a quarter in diameter h f hths" f h thick. The The presser foot 21 is shown particularly in` and Some t ree elg o an me head of the screw 63 is countersunk into the hub 5l so that a smooth flat lower face is presented by the roll towards the inner face of the sole during sewing. The periphery of the rubber tyre B5 ls suitably contoured to cooperate (as shown in Figs ure 2) with the inner face of the sole rim s in holding the outer face of the rim against the front face of the'work table'25 as the sole is fed past the sewing point with its flange 5 resting on the upper surface of the work table 25. The height of the roll 59 is such that its area of contact with theV inner surface of the rim 3 of the sole vis about on the samelevel as the area of contact of thelfront face of the work table 25 vwith the outer surface of the rim. The bracket 45 has a rearwardly ,extendingV arm 61 on which is trunnioned a block 69 through which passes a rod 1l having', above'the block, an adjusting nut 13 and a lock nut 15 threaded upon it, and below the block acompression Spring 11 mounted upon it and confined between theblock and a collar 19. The rod 1|,is pivotally connectedA at its lower end to a lever 80 which is oscillated from a cam on the cam shaft 8l of the machine. This causes a swinging motionk of the bracket 45 about the shaft 43 and so of the roll-59 about the same axis. The distance between the roll 59 and the shaft 4S is such that since the movement of the'roll between its extreme positions is very small, being conveniently about one sixteenth of an inch, this movement is practically in a straight line towards and away from the work. The timing of the cam just mentioned is such that while the roll is maintained in the work clamping position shown in Figure 2 for the major portion of a stitch forming cycle of the machine it is moved forwardly away from the work table 25 while the awl I9 is feeding the work and so cannot exercise a retarding action on the feed.
AIt has already been mentioned that the machine is tted with a starting and stopping mechanism which is such that the sewing instrumentalities on stopping always come to rest in the same positions, these being such that the needle I is withdrawn upwardly from the work, the awl I9 is withdrawn downwardly from the work, the presser foot 2'I is in engagement with the work and the roll 59 is in its rearward work clamping position. Further at the stopping position the needle thread lock, which is of well known form, is operative to prevent thread being withdrawn from the thread supply. In order that at the conclusion of a sewing operation the work may be readily withdrawn, the machine is provided with a treadle upon one continued depression of which the presser foot is first unlocked, then it is raised, then after the presser foot has risen slightly the thread lock is released and finally the roll 59 is withdrawn forwardly from the sole enabling the work to be easily removed. This treadle is not itself shown in the drawings but it is connected to a treadle rod 83, depression of the treadle causing depression of the treadle rod which is normally spring pressed upwardly.
The arrangement whereby the presser foot is unlocked and then raised upony depression of the treadle rod 83 will now be described. The presser foot 27 is carried at the forward end portion of a bent lever 85 pivoted towards its middle upon a stud 81 carried by the frame. The rear end portion of the lever 85 has secured to it a rack. S9 and the teeth of this rack are adapted to be engaged by two-three-toothed pawls 9|, 93 pivoted about the same axis on the machine fra-me. When a tooth of the rack is engaged by one of the pawls, the presser foot 2'! is locked against upward movement. The teeth of the pawl 93 are displaced from the teeth of the pawl 9| by a distance equal to about half the distance between successive teeth on the rack 89. This arrangement allows the presser foot 27 to be locked in twice the number of positions that it could be if only a single pawl were employed. The lever 85 has pivoted to it at 95 another lever 97. The lever 97 has a lug 99 projecting from it, and through a hole in this lug passes a rod IQI, the lower end of which is pivoted to the lever 85 at IIJ-3. The rod ISI has mounted upon it above the lug 99 a sleeve |95 and confined between the upper end of this sleeve and a nut il? (Figure l) on the rod is a compression spring |09. At its rear end the lever 97 has a rack II I secured to it, the teeth of which rack are adapted to be engaged by a three-toothed pawl H3 which is pivotally mounted o-n a stud H5 carried at the forward end of a cam lever II'I. The arrangement of parts just described is very similar to that disclosed in U. S. patent to French and Meyer No. 47 4,774 dated May 10, 1892. The pawls 9i 93 are normally urged into engagement with the rack 89 by means of springs |I9 while the pawl I I 3 is normally urged into engagement with the rack II I by a Spring-pressed plunger I2I mounted on the cam lever II'I. The arrangement is euch that the presser foot 2 is continually urged against the work by a compression spring (not shown but corresponding to the spring referred to as 11,6 in patent to French and Meyer No. 474,774) which is usually adjusted to giveonly quite a weak pressure of the foot on thework. The spring just referred to is connected to the lever 85 through a frame (not shown but corresponding to the frame referred to as `f in patent to French and Meyer No. 474,774) which is pivoted on a boss 523 on the lever 85. When the pawl IIS is in engagement with therack vI I I the rearward end of the lever 97 is loclred against downward movement and the spring |09 will then act through the rod II to urge the rearward portion of the lever 95 upwardly and so to vurge the presser foot 2l downwardly with an increased pressure. it is obviously desirable that the presser foot 27 sho-uid not be pressed hard against the work during that portion of a stitch forming cycle of the machine in which the awl I 9 is feeding the work, and the cam lever I I'I is so actuated that during work feed, both the pawls 9| and 93 and the pawl IIS are released from their respective racks so that the presser foot isat this time only pressed (comparatively weakly) against thev work by the compression spring above referred to. The release of the pawls results from a downward movement of the forward end of the cam lever III, such a movement/,of the cam lever causing the pawl IIS to Contact with a Xed stop I 25 whereby this pawl is swung away from the rack III. and thereafter a projection |27 on the earn lever Iil engages a tail |29 on the pawl 9| causing the pawl 9| to be swung away from the rack 5I-3. A pin and slot connection I 3| between the pawls 9| and Q3 causes the pau/193 to be swung with the pawl SI. Thus it will be realized that diuing work feeding the spring me is not operative to press the presser foot 2 'on the work. When the work feed has taken place, however, the forward end of the cam lever AI Il moves upwardly and the pawls are allowed to engage their respective racks. After the pawl I I3 has engaged its rack III, the final upward movement of the cani lever i Il causes an upward movement of the lever 97 which, in turn, causes compression of the spring i919 to'urge the presser foot 27 with increased pressure on the work. y
It is of course desirable at the end of a sewingoperation that the presser foot 27 should be readily unlocked and raised from the work to facilitate removal of the work from the machine. For this purpose a hand lever I S3 is provided. This lever is pivoted at 35 on a fixed arm |37. Rigidly connected with the hand lever is an elbow lever I39. The elbow lever |39 has` a forwardly projecting portion Id! which engages a cam face on a lever |43 pivotedv at 95 to the lever 85. Pivotally connected at M5 to the lever |43 is a fork member I'I. OneV arm |49 of the form member I 47 is slotted at its rearward Yend and the slot embraces a pin I5! on the pawl 9|. The other arm |53 of the fork member |47 abuts against a pin |55 on the pawl I I3. The arrangement of the parts just described is suoli that when the hand lever it is pushed rearwardly (that is in a clockwise direction as seen in Figures 1 and 2) the fork member I il will swing the pawls away from their rack to unlock the presser foot 27. Continued rearward movement of thehand lever causes a tail-p-iece I5? on the elbow lever |39 to come into ent invention.
contact with the boss |23 on the lever 85. Then if the hand lever is still pressed rearwardly the lever 85 will be turned in a clockwise direction about the stud 51 and the presser foot raised from the work. V
The presser foot actuating rmechanism as so far described with relation to the parts S5, 89, Si, 93, 91, H3, ||1, HJI, |59, |33, |35, etc., has previously been employed on4 sewing machines of the general nature of that disclosed in the patents to French and Meyer above referred to and in itself forms no part of the pres- We have now arranged however that the presser foot is unlocked and raised on depression of the treadle hereinbefore referred to. The treadle rod 83 has a collar |59 secured thereto by a set screw |6I. The treadle rod 83 passes through a fork at the forward end of a lever |53 which is rigidly secured at its rear end to a horizontal rock-shaft |65 carried by the two fixed arms 31 already referred to. The lever |53 has secured to it a portion |61 and a link |59 is pivoted at its rear end to the portion |51, a slot being provided whereby the position of the pivot may be adjusted. The forward end-of the link |55 is pivoted at |1| to a lug projecting from the elbow lever I 39. The arrangement is such that on depression of the treadle rod 83 the collar |59 swings the lever |53` counter-clockwise as seen in Figure l. This in turn causes the link |53 to turn the elbow lever |39 in a clockwise direction and this is exactly the same way as hereinbefore described with reference to the movement of the hand lever |33 causes the presser foot 21 to be first unlocked and then raised upwardly. Y
It has been mentioned hereinbefore that when at the end of a sewing operation the treadle rod 83 is depressed and after it has started to raise the presser foot 21 the needle thread lock of the machine (which will be in its locked position when the machine stops) is released; The general arrangement of the thread take-up 23 and thread lock is the same as in the machine of Patent No. 473,870. The thread coming from the looper 2| passes around a roll at the end of the take-up lever 23 then around a roll at the end of the auxiliary take-up lever |13 then around a roll |15 against which it may be clamped at suitable times by the thread locking lever |11 and then around a roll on the pull-off lever |19 from which it passes round a tension device to the supply. The thread locking lever |11 is pivoted on a horizontal shaft |8| and its rearward end is engaged by a forked member |83 rigidly secured to a horizontal rock shaft |85. The rock-shaft |85 is actuated from a cam in the same manner as is described with reference -to corresponding parts 'in the specification of Letters Patent No. 473,870.
The rock-shaft |85 has a lever ISI loosely pivoted thereon. The upper endl of the vlever |9| is connected by a pivoted link |93 with an arm |95 rigidly secured to the rock shaft |65. The lever l9| when swung clockwise as seen in Figure 1 is adapted to contact with the arm |81 and swing this arm and so the rock-shaft |85 clockwise as seen in Figure l which in turn will cause the thread locking lever |11 to be swung counterclockwise about its pivot so thatits thread clamping end is swung away from the roll |15. Thus it will be realized that when the treadle rod 83 is depressed and the rock-shaft |65 is rotated in a counterclockwise direction the arm |95 will be moved to cause clockwise motion of the lever |9| and thus to cause release of the lthread lock, The degree of motion permitted to the lever |9| before it' contacts with the arm |81 is such that the thread lock will only be released after the treadle rod 83 has been depressedsuch a distance that the presser foot 21 has started to rise.
It has been mentioned.Y hereinbefore that after the treadle rod 83 has unlocked and raised the presser foot and released the thread lock its final depression is operative to withdraw the roll 59 forwardly from the sole. For this purpose the treadle rod 33 has an eye Hill/formed upon it at its top end which `embraces a pin |95 projecting from a lever 26| which is loosely pivoted on the horizontal shaft 53 already referred to. The lever 23| has a lug 283 formed upon it which after the treadle rod has been depressed through some distance (to unlock the presser foot and release the thread lock) is adapted to contact with a lug 255 formed on the rearwardly extenda ing arm 51 of the bracket 435. Further depression of the treadle rod then causes the bracket i5 to be swung clockwise, as seen in Figure l, about the horizontal shaft 53 which results in the roll 59 being withdrawn forwardly from the work. f f
There isa virtue in the order hereinbefore described in which the various actions take place upon depression of the treadle rod 83. If the machine is stopped (as many frequently occur) before a shoe has been completely sewn the operatorfmay desire to lift the presser foot slightly to position the work correctly should it have become displaced. ,It will be realized that by depressing the treadle rod through a short distance only he can raise the presser foot somewhat without'releasing the thread lock or moving the roll 5e forwardly both of which latter effects would be disadvantageous since release of the thread lock might result in a loosening of the stitches and forward movement of the roll 59 from its sole clamping position might result in displacement of the sole if the operator were not to continue to hold it in position.
It is believed that the operation of the machine described with reference to Figures 1 to 6 will have become clear from the foregoing. Briefly to recapitulate however the operator to sew such a shoe as is shown in Figures 7 and 8 will take the sole i and position thereon say the heel portion 9 of the Vbeaded upper (the sole preferably having had, as hereinbefore mentioned, marks made thereon at the localities I3 at which the heel portion 9 of the upper should end). Then he will depress the treadle connected to the treadle rod 83 until the presser foot 21 is raised and the roll 59 moved forwardly and vwhile the parts are in this position he will present the assembled work with the sole lowermost (at one endof the heel portion S of the upper) to the machine and release the treadle just mentioned so that the presser foot 21 is lowered so that its groove 35 engages the bead on the upper and the roll 59 is moved rearwardly so that the rim 3 of the sole is clamped between it and the work table as is shown in Figure 2. Depression of the treadle which is connected to the stopping andl starting mechanism will cause the machine to begin sewing a lockstitch seam (indicated at 261 in Figure 8) to unite the sole and upper, the needle entering the upper before it enters the sole. As already mentioned hereinbefore the stopping and starting mechanism is such that a depression and immediate release of the treadle last referred to causes the machine to sew one stitch only but if this treadle be `retained depressed the machine will continue to sew a succession of stitches until the treadle is released. This arrangement allows the operator very satisfactorily to control the sewing operation, When the heel portion 9 of the upper has been sewn to the sole, the toe portion i will thereafter be sewn to the sole in corresponding fashion, the sewing being made to extend along the portions of the bead Il attached to the toe portion 'i of the upper which project beyond the toe portion 'i proper up to the localities i3 at which the heel portion S of the upper begins.
It will, of course, be realized that no last is employed in the shoe during the sewing operation.V
Conveniently after the sewing operation has been completed, a last may be inserted in the shoe and the bead i i on the upper subjected to a smoothing or beating operation whereby it is pressed up closely towards the upper to conceal the sewing 2i?? while the edge of the flange 5 of the sole may be trimmed more closely up to the sewing 2M, preferably to a somewhat rounded form.
While the above description of the operation of the machine has been given with relation to the sewing of a sandal in which the upper is composed of two portions, it is, of course, to be realized that the machine may be readily used in a similar manner for the sewing of a beaded upper made in one unit to an outturned iange of a sole such as I.
The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, and a machine embodying the several features of the invention having been specifically described, what is claimed is:
l. A shoe sewing machine for sewing the lower edge of an upper to the out-turned flange formed on a rim upstanding from the tread portion ofthe sole having, in combination with the stitch forming devices, a work support shaped and arranged to support the outturned iiange of the shoe sole, a presser foot cooperating with the work support to clamp the upper and ange intermittently, a horn extending into the shoe and pressing the rim of the shoe sole against the edge of the work support, and means for moving the horn away from the work support during each stitch forming cycle to facilitate feeding of the work;
2. A shoe sewing machine for sewing the lower edge of an upper to the out-turned ange formed on a rim upstanding from the tread portion of the sole having, in combination with the stitch forming devices, a work support shaped and arranged to support the out-turned iiange of the shoe sole, a presser foot cooperating with the work support to clamp the upper and flange intermittently, a horn extending into the shoe provided at its inner end with a roll arranged to pressthe rim of the sole against the edge of the work support, and means for supporting the horn so as to be capable of a movement of rotation about an axis coincident with the axis of the roll.
3. A shoe sewing machine for sewing the lower edge of an upper to the out-turned iiange formed on a rim upstanding from the tread portion of the sole having, in combination with the stitch forming devices, a work support shaped and arranged to support the outturned iiange of the shoe sole, a presser foot cooperating with the work support to clamp the upper and flange intermittently, a horn extending into the shoe and pressing the rim of the shoe sole against the edge of the work support, and means operable upon stopping the machine to lift the presser foot and move the horn away from the work support.
4.. A shoe sewing machine for sewing the lower edge of an upper to the out-turned fiange formed on a rim upstanding from the tread portion of the sole having, in combination with the stitch forming devices, a work support shaped and arranged to support the out-turned nange of the shoe sole, a presser foot cooperating with the work support to clamp the upper and flange intermittently, a horn extending into the shoe and pressing the rim of the shoe .sole against the edge of the work support, and a treadle and suitable connections acting when actuated to lift the presser foot from the work and thereafter continue the lifting movement of the presser foot and move the horn away from the work support.
CYRIL CATLY SHEFFIELD. GEORGE CLARKE-`
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| GB28412/32A GB408631A (en) | 1932-10-12 | 1932-10-12 | Improvements in or relating to the manufacture of footwear and sewing machines suitable for use therefor |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| US2001289A true US2001289A (en) | 1935-05-14 |
Family
ID=10275210
Family Applications (2)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| US690207A Expired - Lifetime US2001308A (en) | 1932-10-12 | 1933-09-20 | Shoe sewing machine |
| US705404A Expired - Lifetime US2001289A (en) | 1932-10-12 | 1934-01-05 | Shoe sewing machine |
Family Applications Before (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| US690207A Expired - Lifetime US2001308A (en) | 1932-10-12 | 1933-09-20 | Shoe sewing machine |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| US (2) | US2001308A (en) |
| GB (1) | GB408631A (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US2600424A (en) * | 1950-10-10 | 1952-06-17 | United Shoe Machinery Corp | Presser foot mechanism for sewing machines |
Families Citing this family (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US3002475A (en) * | 1955-10-28 | 1961-10-03 | United Shoe Machinery Corp | Shoe sewing machines |
-
1932
- 1932-10-12 GB GB28412/32A patent/GB408631A/en not_active Expired
-
1933
- 1933-09-20 US US690207A patent/US2001308A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
-
1934
- 1934-01-05 US US705404A patent/US2001289A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US2600424A (en) * | 1950-10-10 | 1952-06-17 | United Shoe Machinery Corp | Presser foot mechanism for sewing machines |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| GB408631A (en) | 1934-04-12 |
| US2001308A (en) | 1935-05-14 |
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