US2099539A - Stocking - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 16, 1937. H'. sH ELY. 2,099,539

STOCKING Filed Nov. 7, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 I i Ewen/i017 @Ma m $072 Nov. 16, 1937. H, SHNELY 2,099,539

STOCKING Filed Nov. 7, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Nov. 16, 1937' UNITED STATES;

PATENT omce s'rocnma Holly ll; Shively, Chicago, ml; n. ApplicationNovember v, 1935, Serial No. 48ers Y 1a Claims.

This invention relates to hosiery and more particularly to an improved construction and design of the upper portion of the stocking commonly called the welt. As is well known, the body of a woman is small I at the waist and broad at the hips, as a result of which the increase in size of the leg of the k average woman from a point just above the knee up to the thigh is very pronounced. Stockings 0 are supported by clasps pendant from a body ar-- ment such as a corset, girdle or foundationgarment. As a result of the movements of the body, stockings are subjected to such extreme strain at points where clasps are attached that it has been necessary to make the top portion or section of the stocking, known as the welt, of much heavier fabric. To stand the strain of the supporter clasps, the welt is not only made of much ,1

heavier fabric but it is also doubled over, thus jg making it of double thickness. The heavier the fabric the less elasticity it will have.

In women's stockings the accepted standard length in the industryis thirty inches and over,

3'5 and men's socks.

Among theobjects of my invention is to so form the upper portion, or welt,'of a stocking that the elasticity thereof is greatest at the top.

A further object is to provide a stocking hav- 40 ing a welt in which the elasticity progressively decreases from a maximum at the top to a mini-- mum at the bottom to adapt the elasticity to the natural variation; in thickness of the large part of the leg of the wearer.

5 Another object is to provide a stocking having a welt in which' if desired and by reversing the arrangement of the heavier and lighter parts, the elasticity can be made to progressively increase from a minimum at the top to a maximum 50 at the bottom to adapt the same to below-knee length of ladies stockings, and childrens and men's socks, for use without garters.

A still further object is to so form the welt of a stocking that the desired distribution of elasticity can be eflected during manlifg llll'g by the alternate arrangement and location of heavier and lighter portions of the fabric.

Another object is the provision of a guide mark at the middle front of the top of the welt to serve as an index to insure the stocking, when put on, being straight on the leg of the wearer.

A further object is to provide for the correct positioning of the heavier portions of the welt fabric to act as a garter block of greater strength and thickness to -hold the supporter clasps with- 9 out tearing or breaking the threads of the welt.

A still further object is to increase the possibility for use of decorative colors, or knitting designs, to produce greater appeal to the eye.

Another object is the provision of a stocking, sock or the like having greater comfort for the ,wearer, selling appeal in the trade, and to more correctly, snugly and pleasingly fit the leg of the wearer without the presence of wrinkles.

A further object is the provision of a stocking having a welt portion so formed that ample elasticity is provided circumferentially, resulting in the shock of garter strain being distributed and absorbed by elasticity in the entire length of the stocking,,thus reducing to a minimum the danger of runs.

A still further object is the provision of a stocking having the improvements of .the present invention and adapted to manufacture on the present standard types of stocking-making machines with the minimum of change therein.-

Other objects, advantages and-capabilities will later more fully appear.

My invention further resides in the combiner tion, construction and arrangement of parts illustrated in the accompanying drawings, and while I have shown therein preferred embodiments I wish it understood that the same is susceptible of modification and change without departing from the spirit of my invention. 40

In the drawings:- a i Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a lady's stocking embodying my invention, and shown 'as applied to the leg of the wearer.

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary development of the upper portion of a stocking made in accordance with my invention, and showing the same laid out flat prior to formation of the rear seam, and for the sake of convenience showing the welt opened up flatw ise of single thickness prior to being doubled upon itself to form a double thickness.

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary development of the upper portion of my improved stocking prior to iq ation of the rear seam and showing the welt of Fig. 2 after it has been folded into double thickness.

Fig. 4: is a view similar to Fig. 2, but showing a reversal of the arrangement of the heavy and light portions of the. welt to position the wide part of the heavy portion at the top of the welt after being doubled over, and showing a greater.

number of alternate light and heavy portions in the welt;

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4 but showing the welt after it has been folded into double thickness and with the position of the triangles reversed.

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary view of openwork knitting of lace or other effect that may constitute the lighter fabric of the welt.

Fig. '7 is a fragmentary view showing the threads of the heavier and lighter portions of the welt enlarged and showing only portions of the contiguous triangles. Referring in detail to the drawings, Fig. 1 shows in full length a stocking, preferably made of silk, applied to the leg of the wearer and comprising a leg portion I, a foot portion 2, and a welt portion 3. and the leg portion I is the usual after welt or shadow welt 4, which serves to minimize the visual effect of the quick transition from the doubled over welt 3 tothe lighter weight leg portion I. The welt portion 3 is doubled in thickness and comprises alternately arrangedtriangles, one set or series 5 of these triangles (see Fig. 1) being formed of light weight fabric, and the alternate set or series 6 being formed of heavier weight fabric. These triangles of alternately different weight fabric are shown more in detail in Fig. 2, in which the material of the welt portion, for the sake of clearness, is shown opened up flat (in development) instead of in double thickness as in Figs. 1 and 3.

It is to be understood that in knitting my im proved stocking the knitting is started at the top (Fig. 2) and the knitting progressed, according to the pattern or arrangement desired, down to the bottom line] of the'welt 3, when the material forming the welt is doubled upon itself along its central line 8--8 to bring the top edge 3 into alignment with the bottom line I, and thethreads pickedup and incorporated with the main threads advancing into the shadow welt of the stocking. This doubling over of the portion of the welt shown in Fig. 2 above the central line 8-8, causes the triangles 5 of lighter material in the upper half of the welt to fall into reglstry'with the triangles 5 of lighter material in the lower half of the welt. In a similar manner this doubling over process causes the triangles B of heavier material in the upper half of the welt to fall into registry-with the tri angles 6 of heavier material'in the lower half of the welt. 'Fig. 3 shows the welt 3 after this doubling over step has been completed, resulting in the lighter weight triangles 5 and the heavier weighttriangles 8, shown in Fig. 3, being of double thickness. As will be understood, after the knitting of .the stocking has been completed the longitudinal side edges will be brought together and the rear seam formed in the usual manner.

In the welt construction shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, the triangles 5 of lighter fabric are arranged so that after the upper half of the welt is doubled over upon the lower half of the welt, the base of the triangles 5 will be at the top edge of the welt 3. A glance at Fig. 3 will show that with this arrangement the horizontal line W Between the welt portion 3' aoea'sse the top edge of the welt will fall within a practically continuous region of the lighter fabric. To put it another way, the bases of the triangles5 of lighter fabric substantially touch each other at the top of the doubled over welt shown in Fig. 3; so that this'lighter fabric at the top of the finished stocking will extend substantially continuously entirely around the top of the stocking. Thematerial of triangles 5 being of lighter fabric than the material of triangles 6, will consequently have greater elasticity, thus resulting in maximum elasticity-at the top of the stocking which, due to the arrangement of the triangles, will proportionately decrease toward the bottom or apex of the triangles 5. In'other words, the elasticity in the welt 3 shown in Fig.

3 will be such as to adapt itself to the decrease -in thickness of this portion of the leg of the wearer, which thickness, as pointed out earlier herein, increases rapidly from the knee to the thigh.

This construction of welt thus makes possible the manufacture of a stocking affording maximum comfort to the wearer without being too tight at the top. The apices of the triangles 6 of heavier fabric being at the top do not interfere with this maximum elasticity at the top, but due to the triangles 6 increasing in horizontal width toward their bases the triangles 6 thus proportionately diminish this elasticity toward the bottom of the welt, consequently providing less elasticity proportionately as the thickness of the leg of the wearer decreases. The apex of that triangle at the front of the welt (whether of light fabric or heavy fabric, depending on whether applied to full length stockings, or below-knee length stockings-or socks) falling at the middle of the front of the welt at the top, forms an index or guide mark to enable the wearer to quickly and easily place the stocking or sock straight upon the leg and free from a twisted condition.

When the upper half of the welt 3 is doubled over upon the lower half, this results in a picot edge III at the top of the stocking as shown in Fig. 3, this being due to the picot loops I l formed during the knitting of the welt along the central line 8-8. This adds to the ornamental appearance of the stocking.

The relative weight of the fabric in the triangles 5 and 6 may be chosen to give the desired eflect in elasticity as well as ornamentation, including variations in color, design or the like. For. example, by the use of indentine dye the fabric of the different triangles can be made of different colors, various designs may be knitted in the various triangles or, if desired, the triangles of lighter weight may bev given a lace or net effect, thus adding to the elasticity as well as to the ornamentation. In other words, this general arrangement of triangles of fabric of different weights lends itself with great facility to wide possibilities in ornamental designs as well as control of elasticity in the welt.

Any number of triangles within reasonable limits oi. proportion may be used throughout the circumference of the welt. In the form shown in Figs, 1, 2 and 3 there are illustrated six of these triangles throughout the circumference of the welt, this being the form in which the maximum elasticity is at the top, in full length stockings.

In the case of. below-knee length stockings and childrens and mens socks, where the change in thickness of the leg of the wearer is not so pronounced and where the necessity for comfort is aoeasso not quite so acute, the welt may bemade with the relative position of the triangles of heavier and lighter material reversed. This is shown in Fig. 4 in which the heavier triangles 6 are ar- 5 Lranged so that when the upper half of the welt is. doubled over upon the lower half of the welt the base or greatest width of these triangles of heavier fabric will be at the top instead of as in Fig. 2 having the greatest width at the top of the lighter fabrics. This in the form shown in Fig,' 4 results in the top edge of the finished ,stocking being of minimum elasticity, which in the case of below-knee length stockings, and childrens and mens socks, gives a more substantial gripping action upon-the leg of thewearer and eliminates the nece ssityof incorporating in the fabric, rubber or other elastic material that would in time rot or otherwise deteriorate. This will eliminate in mens socks'the necessity of supporters. p

In Fig. 4 the triangles of lighter fabric are indicated at 5', and they arezcorrespondingly reversed in position over those shown in Fig. 2. In other words, these triangles 5' of lighter fabric after the upper half of the welt is doubled over the lower half of the welt, have their bases 01' widest portion at the bottom of the welt instead of at the top as, in Fig. 2. From "this it'will be readily understood that the relative arrangement of the heavier fabric triangles 6, and the lighter fabric'triangles 5' in Fig. 4, willgive .a maximum gripping action at the top of the stocking or sock, this gripping action proportionately decreasing in a downward direction. It'should be kept in mind that one of the differences in the requirements of a a full-length stocking having .a welt such as shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3 over the requirements of. the below-knee length stocking or socks illustrated in Fig. 4 is that in the fulllength stocking the major requirement is comfort V at a larger and' more sensitive part of the leg" of the wearer, which part has a more rapid change 'in thickness longitudinally of the leg, thefull-length stocking being held up by supporter clasps. while in the below -knee length stockings and socks, the top of which encircle the leg of the wearer at a portion'where supporter clasps are not available, the major requirement is a suf-- ficient. tightness or gripping action around the" leg of the wearer to take the place of a garterto holdthe short stockings or soc'ks up. As is apparent, this placing of the maximum width of the heavier fabric ftriangles at the top of. the

- stocking in Fig. 4 produces this-gripping garter socks having a welt such as is shown in Fig. 4 and 1 eifect. In the below-knee length stockings and described above, a greater number of triangles will 'preferablybe used throughout the circumference of the weltin order to increase the gripping or garter action. I

In Figs. 4 and 5 a total of twelve triangles of both light and heavy fabric are shown in each of the, two thicknesses of the double thickness throughout the circumference of the stocking, but it is understood that any other properly proportioned number may be used. In the belowknee length stockings and socks the standard vertical width of the welt after being doubled over, is from one and one-half to two inches, while in the full length stockings it is three and one-half inches for a doubled welt. I

In the various forms of stocking shown in the drawings, the after welt or shadow welt is indicated at 4 and, as is well known, the purpose of this after or shadow welt is to minimize the visualefiect of the quick transition from the doubled over, weltto the lighter-weight stocking leg.

As will be understood, Fig. 4 shows the welt before being doubled over. Fig. 5 shows the welt after it has been doubled over into double thickness and with the position of the triangles re- In Fig. dis a fragmentary suggestion of an openwork lace or net effect that may, if desired,

beused in the triangles 5 and 5' of lighter weight material. -Qther designs may be used in such triangles in accordance with the wishes of the .designer. A InFig. 7 is shown in fragmentary enlargement one form of adjacent portions of the material forming the heavier weight triangles and the lighter Weight triangles,'this view showing the heavier threads of the-heavier weight triangles and the lighter threads of the lighter weight triangles.

My invention is also applicable to a single thickness welt iri which the relative arrangement of the. portions of'lighter weight fabric and the portions of heavier weight fabric may be either of-the type shown in Fig. 3 or of the type shown in Fig. 5, and any si ze and number of triangles used as desired; it being understood that in thecase of full length stockings with either a single or double thickness welt the base or great-- est width of the triangles of lighter weight fabric will be at' the top of the welt as inFigs.-3 and 5,

while in below-knee length stockings, and socks,

the? base or greatest width of the triangles of v heavier weight fabric will be at the top of the welt, asin 'Fig. 4 after the welt has been doubled over. While I have illustrated the lighter weight fabric portions. of the welt, and the heavier weight fabric portions of the welt as each being of triangular shape, it is to be understood that the strict configuration of a triangle might be departed from without departing from the spirit, 'of my invention-which includes in full length stockings the provision of maximum elasticity at the top of the welt with the gradual diminishing oisuch elasticity downwardly toward the bottom of the welt, and in the case of below-knee length stockings and children's and mens socks, the

provision of minimum elasticity at the top of the welt with the gradual increasing of such elasticity downwardly toward the bottom of the welt, which welt in both cases may be. of either-double or single thickness, as desired.

Having now described my invention I claim:

lighter weight fabric, the base of the triangle being at the top of thewelt and the apex there of pointing downwardly, there also being knitted in said welt a triangular"portion of heavier weight fabric, the base of the triangle of the 1 heavier weight triangular portion being positioned downwardly and its apex at the top of the welt, whereby to provide in said welt an elasticity that is maximum at the top of the welt and progressively decreases downwardly to comfortably acco'minodate the vertical change in thiclmess of the wearers leg above the knee.

3. In astocking, a welt havingone or more triangles of lighter weight fabric with the base at the top of the welt and the apex' pointing downwardly, and onelor more triangles of heavier weight fabric with the apex pointing upwardly,

whereby the lighter weight triangles will produce an elasticity greatest atthe top of thewelt and progressively diminishing downwardly, while the heavier weight triangles will provide stronger supporter-clasp receiving areas.

- the triangles of one series being reversely posi-' toned with relation to the triangles of the other series and of lighter weight fabric, the-lighter weight triangles having their bases at the top of the welt and their apices at the' bottom of the welt, the heavier weight triangles having their apices at the top of the welt and theirbases at the bottom of the welt.

6. In a'stocking, a legportion having at its upper end a welt having two series of triangles, the triangles of one series being reversely positioned with relation to the triangles of the other series-and of lighter weight fabric, the lighter weight triangles having their bases at the top of the welt and their apices at the bottom of thewelt, the heavier weight triangles having their apices at the top of the welt and their bases at the bottom of the welt, the light weight triangles being alternately positioned with relation to the heavier weight triangles.

'7. In a stocking, a'leg,portion having at. its upper end a welt having two series of triangles, the triangles of one series being reversely positioned with relation to the triangles of the other series and of lighter weight fabric, the lighter weight triangles having their. bases at the top of the welt and their apices at the bottom of the welt, the heavier weight triangles having their apices at the top of the welt and their bases at the bottom of the welt, the light weight triangles being alternately positioned with relation to the heavier weight triangles, and contiguous therewith, to provide an elasticity in the welt that is maximum at the top 'of the welt and progressively decreases downwardly to the bottom of the welt, whereby to comfortably accommodate the enlarging thicknessof the wearers leg above the knee. v

8. In a stocking a' welt havinga plurality of portions of lighter weight fabric and a'plurality of portions of heavier weight fabric, each of the lighter weight portions being of greatest circumferential dimension at the, top,' of the welt and decreasing in said dimension downwardly throughout the vertical extent of the welt, and

each of said portions of heavier weight fabric being positioned reversely to thelighter weight portions, whereby to cause the welt to progressively increase in circumferential elasticity from the bottom to the top, to give greatest elasticity at the larger portion of the leg contacted by the stocking, the elasticity progressively decreasing downwardly in proportion to the, decreasing thickness of the wearers leg above the knee.

9. In a stocking, a welt having a plurality of I lighter weight portions and a plurality of heavier weight portions, each of said light weight portions extending throughout the vertical extent of the one end to the other in one direction, and each of the heavier weight portions extending throughout the vertical extent of the welt and increasing in circumferential width from one end to the r other in the opposite direction, whereby to produce a progressive change in the degree of circumferential elasticity.

, HOLLY I. \SHIVELY.

,. welt and increasing in circumferential width from l

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