US2088562A - Cutting sole for the attachment of wood heels - Google Patents

Description

A 1937. F. ANDERSON ET AL 2,088,562

CUTTING SOLE FOR THE ATTACHMEN TOF WOOD HEELS Original Filed. April 21, 1954 Patented Aug. 3, 1937 UNITED STATES CUTTING SOLE FORTHE ATTACHMENT OF WOOD HEELS Frederick L. Anderson, Haverhill, Mass, and

Nicolas Crispino, Keene, N. H., assignors to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application ,April 21,"1934,Serial No. 721,668

Renewed December 28, 1936 2 Claims. (01. 12-146) This invention relatesto methods, employed in the preparation of soles to be used in the construction of shoes to which a wood heel, either of the French or Louis type, or the military or Cuban type is to be attached, andwhichwhen attached should have the rim of the base seat firmly against the shoe upper about the heel seat.

As a sufiicient portion of the heel part of the sole must be retained for the attachment of the heel by, inside nailing, it has been customary to cuton the heel by beveling the edge portion ofthe sole with a. hand, knife, which operation may be satisfactorily performed, but which requires a considerable degree of skill in its performance and is slow and expensive, and, also by removing the edge portion of the heel part up to the heel breast by meansof a cutting die, as

in patent Brauner et al. No. 1,606,055, Nov. 9,

The latter method, while it tends greatly to reduce the expense of cutting on the heel is defective on account of, the difliculty in making a satisfactory joint, between the upper and the cor- 25 nets of the heel at the heelbreast.

For example, when a heelof the military or Cuban type is attached to a shoe of the McKay type, the breast edge must bear on the sole surface entirely across the same, and while the edge 30 portion of the sole heel part may be cut away up nearly to the breastedge so as to permit nearly all of the base of, the heel, to bear against the upper, if the sole is left the full thickness directly. beneath thebreast edge of, the heel, the heel ,rim will be prevented from seating against the upper at thispoint leaving an open joint adjacent the breastedge, or if the edge portion of the heel part of the sole is cut away tothe breast edge, so as to permit the heel lip to seat 40 against the upperat this point, an objectionable shoulder will, be left on the sole in front of the heel.

It is also essential that the back portion of the heel should seat on the upper at the back of the 5 ,shoe in a certain position, so that, in cutting on the heel after the sole has been attached, it is customary forthe workman to set the heel in its correct positionon the shoe and mark the position of the heel breast on the sole and'then 50 cut a shoulder in the sole against which the heel breast sets, so that, when the heel is attached, it will be correctly positioned.

This practice necessitates keeping the particular heel, which has been cut on, with the shoe 55' which ithas been out onto until the heel is finally attached, otherwise an open joint is likely to be left at the point where the heel breast is supposed to abut against the shoulder, and, even under these conditions an imperfect joint is liable to be formed at this point. i

This difiiculty has been partly obviated by extending the channel flap over the shoulder, but, unless the shoulder is formed in exactly the correst position with reference to the particular heel which is attached, the results will not be satisfactory, as an unsightly depression is likely to be formed in the sole in front of theheel breast.

In other words uniformly satisfactory results are only secured when the heel is seated firmly on the grain surface of the sole throughout the entire width of both the sole and the heel breast, without having a shoulder formed in the sole and, at the same time, the rim of the heel is seated firmly on the upper at the heel breast, as well as at other points. i 7

In the mass productionof shoes, if the sole can be prepared prior to its attachment to the upper, so that the entire cutting on operation may be eliminated and s o that, when the heel is correctly positioned on the shoe, it will not only seat firmly against the upper entirely about, the sides and back, but will also seat firmly on the sole at its breast edge entirely across the sole to the upper at each side of the shoe, then a considerable savof hand cutting on be avoided, but thetabove noted difficulties incident to making a satisfactory joint between the heel'and the upper at the heel breast will be avoided when the adjacent edge portions of the sole heel part are cut away,

so as to permit theheel to seat against theupper,

wherebythe entire expense-of cutting on the heel may be eliminated and: satisfactory results may be secured.

We accomplish this object, in the production of shoes of the McKay sewed type, which carry heels of the military type, by first channeling the sole and bending back the channel flap onto the middle portion of the grain side of the sole, and

then, by meansof a special machinedesignedfor end portions of the cut at each side of the heel portions of the breast edge thereof will bear di' rectly on the channel flap over the ,beveled edge portion, and, as the flap at this point will be yieldingly supported by the beveled edge beneath it, this portion of the sole will yield sufficiently to permit the rim portion of the' heel adjacent its breast, to be pressed against the upper, while at the same time the end portions of the breast edge will be held in firm engagement with the surface of the channel flap, the necessity of forming a shoulder at each side of the sole at or near the breast line being thus avoided.

In consequence, while the cutting operation will be made, within reasonable limits, with reference to the size of the base of the heel to be attached, yet substantial variation in this respect will be permitted without affecting the closeness with which the heel will be engaged with the upper and sole.

"For a more complete disclosure of the invention reference is now made to thefollowing specification in connection with the accompanying drawing, in" which: I

, Fig. 1 indicates the two members of a simple form of dieing out machine, which is employed.

Fig. 2 is a plan View of the bed member.

Fig. 3 is a sectional view at line 3-3 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 4 is an edge view of the bed plate.

Fig. 15 is a plan view of acutting die which is employed.

Fig. 6 is'a plan view showing the sole in position for cutting.

Figs. '7 and 8 are detail sectional views, at line 1--8 of Fig. 6, illustrating the cutting operation.

Fig. 9 is a sectional View of a sole after cutting.

Figs. 10 and 11 are views of the heel portions of different types of soles after being operated Fig. 12 is a'view of the outer side of the sole shown in Fig. 10 after attachment of the heel.

I In Fig. '1 of the drawing the'twomembers of l a common form of dieingout machine are indicated, the bed member H) being indicated as reciprocally movable'to and from the die carry- "ing member l2, both members being shown as held in an'inclined position, which is the position in which they are normally held when employed in abench machine, to enable the operator better to see that he has the workcorrectly positioned.

' A cutting die ll, of approximately U-form and having divergently curved end portions, as

I shown in Fig. 5, is mounted on the fixed member 12, and a bed plate 15 is mounted on the member IIJ, said plate having a gage plate l6 mountedthereon between guide ways I! and having an adjusting screw l8 threaded thereon and swiveled in the plate l5, whereby the plate l6 may be conveniently adjusted. The gage plate is provided with the usual diverging gage faces l9 at its front end, so that when the heel end of a sole is. held there against, it will be correctly positioned with relation to the cutting die. An

indicator arm 20 is also mounted on the plate l6, which cooperates with graduations 2| on the plate l5 to indicate the correct positioning of t engagement of the edge of the die 14, but as the action in connection with both dies is identical only one is shown.

A presser plate 25 is mounted on the bed plate l5, the thickness of which approximates to the thickness of the soles which are to be shaped --and the side edges 25 of which extend convergently and approximately parallel to, and for -a substantial distance from and within the line 22, this distance also approximating to the thickness of the sole but preferably being slightly greater than said thickness.

Before the operation, now to be described, is

performed, the gage plate I5 is adjusted with its indicator arm in register with one of the marks 2|, which correspond to the type of heel to be attached and, as wood heel bases are, to a large extent, standardized, but comparatively few dif ferent adjustments are necessary.

In performing the operation on a sole which is to be attached by McKay sewing, and to which a military heel-is to be attached, a sole x will first be channeled for McKay sewing in the ordinary manner, the channel. flap 1; being laid over on the grain side, as shown in Fig. '7. The heel end of the sole will then be held against the gage faces l9,'as shown in Fig. 6, with its outer or grain side next the bed plate l5, as shown in Fig. 7, theadjustment of the gage plate bein such that the heel breast line on the sole will be approximately at the dotted line 'l--8 in Fig. 6. As the bed plate moves towards the die, the plate 25 first engages the middle portion of the grainside of the heel part of the sole, before, or at the time the edge of the die engages the opposite side thereof, but as this engagement is opposite points between the end portions of the die, at'a substantial distance therefrom and the portion of the bed directly over the edge of the die has not yet engaged the sole, the presser plate 25 will press the portion of the sole which it engages down within the die before the latter begins to cut, so that the edge portions of the sole are bent upwardby the die to an oblique position, as shown in the dotted line position in Fig. 7, until they become engaged by the bed plate. As a result the out which is then made thru the sole will be at an oblique angle thereto, so that the edge of the sole portionwhich' is opposite the presser plate 25 will be beveled, while the portion between the plate 25 and the rear end of the sole will be cutsquare, as shown in Fig. 10, thereby removing the edge portion of the sole about the heel part, and, at the same time, cutting off the end portions of the channel fiaps y at each side of theheel part, the'end portions 2 of which are left being pointed, as indicated by the dotted line positionof Fig. 10, so that when they are turned out to cover up the channel after sewing on the sole they will project out over the beveled edge, as shown in Fig. 12.

It is to be particularly noted, that the beveled edge, which is formed on the side ed e of the sole, extends for a substantial distance in front of, as well as in the rear of the breast line, so that, when the, heel is attached, which be in approximately the position shown in dotted outline in Fig. 12, the corner portions of the heel at the breast will bear on these end portions of the channel flap, which have then been turned down to cover the stitches, and as the sole edge portions directly beneath the corner portions of the heel have been beveled to a sharp edge, these portions will yield and will not prevent these corner portions at the side of the heel from seating firmly against the shoe upper, and at the same time the corner portions at the heel breast side will seat firmly against the outer surface of the sole, so that a perfect joint between the heel base and the shoe upper and sole will be formed at all points, regardless of variations within certain limits, of the distance from the back of the heel to its breast edge. In consequence, by employing the foregoing method, the cutting on operation may be initially performed on the sole before attachment, and while this operation will be performed with reference to the size of the base of the heel to be attached, variations will be permitted Within certain limits and the necessity of forming .a shoulder or otherwise fitting the heel to the particular shoe to which it is to be attached will be avoided, and, at the same time, the results secured will be much more satisfactory than those secured by prior methods.

In this connection it is to be noted that if the heel margin portion were out off and its edge portion beveled before the sole was channeled and the heel were attached in the position noted, the channeling operation would remove the grain surface at the space w in Fig. 12, leaving at this point, either a notch in the sole, or surface which cannot be finished properly.

The operation on a sole to which a French heel is to be attached is similar, except that the sole is placed in position with its grain side next the die, the split-off tongue being turned back, with the result that the beveled edges are formed on the side of the sole next the tongue, as shown in Fig. 11. In this instance also the beveled edge will bend or yield sufficiently to permit the side portion next the breast edge tobear firmly against the upper.

In performing the latter operation, the other die, having a cutting edge corresponding to the line 23 and a longer presser plate 25, will be employed and the gage plate l5 will be adjusted to a rearward position, so that the part removed will be of a considerably greater length, this being necessary to provide a tongue on the sole of sufilcient length to extend to the top of the breast of a high heel.

It will be noted that as the beveled edge which is formed on the sole in each instance extends for a substantial distance adjacent the breast line, the exact location of the breast edge of the heel is not important, as it will be possible to press the side edge at the breast line against the upper at any point where the sole is beveled.

We claim:

1. The method of preparing soles for the attachment of military type Wood heels for McKay sewed shoes, which consists in first channeling the sole and turning back the channel flap onto the grain surface, then removing the sole heel part margin by a continuous out which extends about its rear end and diverges to the side edges in front of the breast line, the diverging portions of the out being inclined outwardly from the flesh side of the sole to form beveled edge portions which extend past the heel breast line, whereby the end portions of the channel flap may subsequently be bent back over the channel to provide a yieldable seat of substantial length for the corner portions of the heel.

2. The method of preparing soles for the attachment of military type heels to McKay sewed shoes, which consists in removing the sole heel part margin, while the channel flap is turned over the grain surface, by a continuous out which extends about the rear end and diverges to each side edge to points in front of the normal position of the heel breast line, the end portions of the cut for a substantial distance in front and in the rear of said breast line being beveled outwardly from the flesh side of the sole.

FREDERICK L. ANDERSON. NICOLAS CRISPINO.

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