US194086A - Improvement in instruments for drafting patterns - Google Patents

Description

Z Sheets-Sheetl. C. H; GRIFFIN.

` INSTRUMENTS FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS. N0` 194,086, Patented Aug.14,1877.

N. PETERS. PHOT0LITHOG|2APHER. WASHINGTON. D C.

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,c. H. GRIFFIN. INSTRUMENTS FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS. Nofmaoae.

Patented Aug.14,1877.

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N.PETERS, PHoTn-LITHOGRAFHER. wASHlNGYoN, D C.

UNITED: @STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CALEB H. lrRI`B`IIN` 0F LYNN, ASSIGNOR-OF ONE-HALF HIS RIGHT T0 DAVID KNOX, 0F SAUGUS, AND ONE-FOURTH HIS RIGHT TOv ELIZABETH ELLEN DURGIN, 0F MALDEN CENTRE, MASSACHUSETTS.

lINIPRVEIVFIENT IN INSTRUMENTS FOR DRAFTING PATTEN'S.

Spcification forming part of Letters Patent No. l94,086, dated August 14, 1877 application led December 5, 1873. Y

provided,'as hereinafter mentioned, with slides to vary their relative positions, and also of two devices in the shape of patterns, whose bounding-lines are partly in the i'orm of peculiar curves, these patterns being also furnished with scales and indicating characters.

The object :of any invention .is to furnish the means whereby (the dimensions Aof the human `body being V.taken byactual measurement) a pattern `is produced for the cutting out of' garments.

Figure .-1 isa viewo' .a pattern with lines, iigures, andV perforations used in cutting the darts or ygores. Eig. 2 is a view fof a combina tionof adjustable scales for marking ont the pattern oi' lthe back of the dress. Fig.` 3, is a viewof acurved ypattern for cutting out the darts, arm-size, &c. Fig. 4 .is a view of a combination of adjustable scales for marking out the front lof the dress.

Fig.` 2 represents a strip of wood yor metal, marked Back N 0.8 7 in the drawing,with three scales thereon. Two of these scales, one on eitheredge of the strip, are divided by `lines marked from 171to50,1orsometimesfrom asmaller to a greater number. One is marked No 5 and the-other No 6. There isalso a third scale, with 4figures running from 7 to24. There is a metallic .loopon the strip at `theiend,bear ing `scale No. 5. There are three slides on the piece marked Back N o. 8, with two cross or axial slides attached to two of them, 4running :at `:right angles `with piece Back No.8. The other strips or pieces included in Fig. 2

Drafting y arel thus described Onepiece marked Back neck No. l, with scale thereon running from 17 t0 50, and connected with piece Back No. 8V by the metallic loop ImentOned, in' which it slides at right angles to Back No. 8; one piece marked Back shoulder, with scale thereon, numbered from 17 to 50, passing through a cross-slide, and Working therein ata right angle with piece marked Back No. 8; one piece marked Back No. 3, with scale thereon divided into parts, and numbered from l to l2,andoperated by means of a cross-slide, which holds it at a right angle with piece .marked Back No. 8; one

piece marked Back waist No. 4, with scalel thereon divided into tl1irtyi`our parts, and numbered .from 17 to 50, attached by a pin or rivet, on which it partiallyr rotates, to aslide or piece marked Back No. 8; one piece marked Shoulder No. 7, with scale thereon divided into twenty-two parts, (more or less.)

numbered from l to l1, with `a slot through the center of .said piece from No. 1 to l1, or thereabout, `and connected with scale marked Back shoulder No. 2 by a pin in said slot, and connected withscale marked Back neck No. l by ra pin, on which it partially rotates. This constitutes what I term the back instrw ment.

The front instrument, to `be used in connection 'with `the back instrument above described,

is shown in Fig. 4, andcons-ists of several pieces of strips, thus described: One Apiece marked Back-neck-scale No. 2, withscale thereon divided into thirtyfour partsyand numbered from 171:0 50; one .piece marked Front-chest scale, with scale thereon divided into inches and parts of inches, and numbered from lv upward. The edges ofthis piece form a dovetail, on which slides the: Front-arm-size scale N 0.3, whichisa triangle composed of four pieces, `tivo of which formV the slide work-ing on the Front-chest scale,

and two pieces, `one at either end of saidslide,

connected by rivets with it, and extending therefrom at an acute angle 1till their ends Q remesa which is fastened, with rivets, the piecel marked Back-neck scale No. 2, atanohtuse angle with piece marked Front piece No. S. There is a scale on the piece marked Front piece No. 8, marked Front-neck scale No. l. l This is divided into thirty-four parts, and numbered from I7 to 5U. f

'Accompanying the back and front instruments, and essential to the operation thereof, is a piece in the shape of a pattern, marked dart-scale, (see Fig. 1,) with three longl sides and one short side, one of the long sides being in' o'gee form; The side opposite to the ogee side is divided into thirty-four parts, numA beredfrom 17 to 50,and marked Nd l at the base.A lThe device bears thirty-four lines, running horizontally in .the drawing, and crossing the main part ofthe figure at right angles to and extending` to the ogee side. The drawing shows circular perforations on these lines. One row of perforations is marked (on the base-linev of the figure) No 2. The divisions made by' the lines commence at the base-line and'extend'to the top or short side. One row ofiperforations is marked Nd 3, and extends from the base to the top or short side. One row of perforations, marked No.' 4, extends froml the base to the top or short side. One. row of perforations, marked No. 5, extends similarly. Between the row of lines marked 'No. l and',`v the row of perforations marked Nd E is a V-shaped opening.

' Also accompanying back land front instruments, and essential to the operation thereof', is a piece inl the shape of a pattern, with its sides cut in-peculiar curves,-as seen in Fig. 3, marked in vthe drawing` Scale No. 0, on which are marked Dart No. 7,"Back form t No. 9, Arm'size No. 3, and Neck No. l,

and a short separating-line, Z, Fig, 3, horizontal in the drawing, at junction of the portion marked in the drawing Dart No.` 7 and the upper portion, in the drawing, of the scale No. 0. This scale No. (lis also providedwith a perforation or dent, P, Fig. 3, at the top in the drawing. I sometimes have twov or more of these perforations, and sometimes vary the lol cation by placing it or them an inch (more or less) to the right or left'of the point-shown in the drawing. s The use of this perforation is to indicate the amount of cloth to be taken out in front for the arm-size.

Operation of theinvention: I now proceed to give a practical illustration of the operation of 'of the slide in which it works.

the instruments by rst assuming that a ladys breast-measure is thirty-fiveinches. Ithen set scale marked Back neck No.1 with figure 35 even with straight edge of loop at end of piece marked Back No. 8; then place figure 35 on scale marked Back shoulder No.2even with the outer orl right-hand end ofthe slide in which it works; then slide the back-shoulder scale on scale marked No, 5 to ligure 35. Assuming that the width of back is fifteen inches, l set scale marked Back No. 3, at figure 35011 scale No. 6, even with the outer or right-hand end I then slide the scale back No. 3 in a direction at right vangles to piece back No. 8, until the line at T on the scale comes even with the outer edge ofthe piece marked Back No. 8. This gives halfot' the width of back and lowerpoint of back-arm size. Assuming that the length ot' waistis sixteen inches, I place scale marked Back waist No. 4 on back No. 8, at 16 inches; then, assuming the waist measure around the body to be twenty-six inches, I draw a line at right angles with the piece marked Back No. 8 to No. 26011 scale marked Back waist No. 4. The scale marked Shoulder No. 77 indicates elevation, slope, and length of shoulder. This completes the setting of .the back instrument.

I now place the instrument on the material to be drafted, with the piece back No. 8 even withthe folded edge thereof, and draw a line from the straight edge of loop at end of back No. 8 around vthe outer side of scale-marked Back neck No. l, extendingv said line down the edge oi' scale marked Shoulder No. 7 to the number of inches indicated by the length of shoulder-measure. This gives half of the back section of the neck and the length of the shoulder-seam, also the upper point of backarm size.

I then draw a line from shoulder No. 7, on the upper edge of piece marked Back shoulder N o. 2, to outer edge of piece marked Ba-ck No. 8, I and number said line 35. Then I draw a line on upper edge of piece lmarked Back No. v3 to extreme left-hand end'thereof. I then lay the back instrument aside. v

I then place scale N o. 0, with the separating- -line mentioned, Z, Fig. 3, at base of dart No.

7, on upper point of back-arm size, and, using that part of s caler No. 0 as a guide, draw a curved line to lower point of back-arm size; then divide Asaid curved line into three equal parts; then dot on waist-line one inch from edge ot' material or line of back No. 8; then place acute point of scale No. 0 on lower dot in arm-size, and draw aline aroundedge of back form No.V 9 to dot on waist-line for curved seam to side body.\ This completes the draft of the back. I f

Having drafted the back, I now commence to draft the front portion of the garment by first taking the chest-measure,which,for this illustration, I assume to be thirty-eight inches around the largest part of the breast. Ithen subtract the width of back (fifteen inches) from the chest-measure (thirty-eight inches) and the remainder (twenty-three inches) I divide by two, giving eleven and one-haltl inches, which is one-half ot' the width ofthe front on chest-scale, at which point I set the inside end of slide on chestscale, the inside edge or' which rests at 11% inches. I now cut out the back and place No. 35 on line No. 2 on inner edge ot' piece marked Back neck No. 2 opposite the corresponding number, theneck and shoulder pointing toward front piece N o. 3. Inext set the rounding side of pointer attached to slide on front-arm-size scale No. 3 at No. 35 on said scale.

I then place the inner edge of obtuse point of scale No. 0 at No. 35 on front-neck scale No. 1, bringing edge of said scale even with the nether edge of the scale marked Back neck No. 2, and draw a line, which indicates one-half of the size of the neck, or, in other words, the distance fromvthe center of the backbone to the center ot' the hollow of the throat.

I then pass the tape around the arm at the point where the sleeve and the shoulder unite, and, for illustration, call it fifteen inches. I then (the breast measure being thirty-five inches) slide up the pointer Q, Fig. 4, till the upper edge of the same reaches the line 35 on the front-arm-size scale No. 3. I then place the scale No. (l with the projecting pin Q", Fig. 4, entering the perforation P, Fig. 3 5 tht-n pass the tape from the point of junction of line 35 with the pointer Q around the edge ofthe scale No. 0 to a distance of iifteen inches, which fixes the place of the lower point ot' back-arm size. The scale No. 0, when put in position ou the pin Q", gives bottom and front of arm-size and top of side seam.

Front-neck scale N o. 1 on piece marked Front piece No. 8 gives height of neck on the front.

To form the darts I use the piece termed Dart-scale, Fig. 1, with V slot therein, the righthand side of which is used to give relative position of top of the back dart to the front dart, when thelongest straight edge ofthe dart-scale is placed against line No. 8 in Fig. 4. W hen the breast-measureis thirty-five inchesI use holes on 1ine35 in lines ofholes marked No. 3 and Nd 5, for top otf trst and second darts. When the Waist-measure is twenty-six inches I use holes on line 26, in lines of holes marked No. 2, Nd 3, No. 4, and Nd 5, for base of darts and space between them. I then place the side of dart-scale which is opposite the ogee side against line No. 8, and dot in rst hole on line 26. This gives space between front edges of dress and lirst line of irst dart. I then move side of dart'scale from line No. 8 to said dot and dot in third and fourth holes on said lines. I then move front edge of dart-scale to last dot and dot in hole 4 on line 26. This gives size and position of darts and spaces between them. I

then place the acute point of ogee'on upperl dot 35, and draw' a line to frontdot on waist, andV repeatl tor second dart, and use stra-ight side for back side of' darts. When less curve for darts is'desircd, l use dart form on scale No. 0.

I claim in dress-makers measuresi 1. The device shown in Fig. 1, being the pattern called the dart-scale,`as provided with lines, holes, and figures, or other indicating characters, and the curved right-hand side marked dart, all when combined and arranged to operate substantially as described and shown.

2. The scale-piece marked Back shoulder in Fig. 2, with its slide 2 at one end and pin at the other, and the subsidiary cross-slide seen, in combination with the sliding scale-piece marked Back neck No. l, and the loop bearing it, the slotted scale-piece marked Shoulder No. 7 also the scale-piece No. 5, and the piece marked Back No. 8, and bearing scalepiece entitled fSeale No. 5, all when constructed and arranged to operate substantially as described and shown.

3. The scale-piece marked Back No. 3 in Fig. 2, in combination with its slide 3, the cross-slide, and the piece marked Back No. 8, and the scale-piece entitled Scale No. 6, all when constructed and arranged to operate substantially` as described and shown.

4. The scale-piece marked Back-Waist scale No. 4 iu Fig. 2, in combination with the pin on which it partially rotates, its slide 4, and the piece marked Back No. 8, all when constructed and arranged to operate substan tially as described and shown.

5. The combination of the piece marked Back No. 8, with its scale and scale-piece entitled Scale No. 5, and the end loop, and the pieces marked, respectively, Back neck, Shoulder No. 7 ,77 with its slot, Back shoulder scale N o. 2, with its pin, Back No. 3, and Back-Waist scale N o. 4, with its pin, with their slides and indicating characters, all when constructed and arranged to operate substantially as described and shown.

6. The scale-piece marked Back neck No. 2 in Fig. 4, in combination with the piece marked Front-neck scale No. 1, 0r other strip of wood or metal or other material. when the two strips are fastened together at an obtuse angle, all substantially as described and shown.

7. The scalepiece marked Frontchest scale in Fig. 4, in combination with the sliding triangle formed by the piece marked Front-arm-size scale No. 3, the piece forming the opposite long side of triangle, and the pointer Q, all when constructed and arranged to operate substantially as described and shown.

8. The scale-piece marked Front-arm-size scale N o. 3 in Fig. 4, with its pointer Q and pin Q2 their slide, and the support for the same, in combination with the Front-chest .Neck No. 1, and the perforation P, all con- I, scale, and the scale-piece entitled Scale No. structed and arranged 4to operate substan- 0, of Fig. 3, with its perforation or dent P, tially asdescribed 'and shown.

all when constructed and arranged to operate CALEB HENRY GRIFFIN. substantially as described andshown. I Witnesses:

9. The scale-piece No. 0, of the congurae WILLIS GRIFFIN,

tion shown, .and provided with scale marked DAVID T. KNOX.

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