US1736453A - Hemmed seam and process of producing the same - Google Patents

Description

KL NLAIEF? HEMMED SEAM AND PROCESS OF PRODUCING THE SAME Nov.. 19, 1929.

Filed June l3, 1925 2 Sheets-Sheet l Nov. 19, 1929. K. MAIER 1,736,453

HEMMED SEAM AND PROCESS OF PRODUCING THE SAME Filed June 13; 1925 ZSheets-Sheet 2 atented Nov. 19 1929 if UNlTiED STATES @FFICE KARL MAIER, F STUTTGART, GERMANY, ASSIGNOR- TO UNION SPECIAL MASCHINEN- FABRIK, G. M. B. 1-1., 012' STUTTGART, GERMANY HEMMED SEAM AND PROCESS OF PRODUCING THE SAME Application filed June 13, 1925, Serial No. 36,887, and. in Germany June 18, 1924.

This invention relates to new and useful improvements in hemmed seams and the process and machine for making the same, and more particularly to a hemmed seam which is formed at the edge of a fabric for cover ing the edge portion thereof.

Prior to this invention hemmed seams have been formed at the edge of fabric sections wherein a needle thread has been used to penetrate the fabric and this needle is concatenated with upper and lower covering threads. In hemmed seams of the above type the edge of the fabric is often folded and lies within the covering threads and when the hemmed seam is so formed the inturned edge of the material often penetrates or protrudes through the covering threads.

An object of the present invention is to provide a hemmed seam wherein several sets of covering threads are used and secured by the needle thread in such a way that the portions of the fabric within the limits of the covering seam are more completely covered and hidden by said threads.

It has also been found where achemmed seam is made in the well known manner and only one penetrating needle thread used that there is liability of the seam pulling out, and this is particularly true where the portion of the fabric turned within the hemmed seam is,

Very narrow. 1

A further object of the invention is to provide a hemmed seam which has formed there with anchoring covering threads which are tied to the material being formed with the hemmedseam by an inner row of penetrating loopers.

A further object of the invention is to pro-' vide a process for forming a seam wherein the covering threads of the same are laid in groups or nested on one face of the material and are secured to the material by loops passing through the nested loop and through the material and by being interlocked at the edge of the material with the loops which penetrate the material.

A further object of the invention is to provide a process for forming hemmed seams wherein the upper thread carrying looper is provided with a plurality of eyes arranged in groups for independent covering threads so that said looper when cooperating with a single needle will cause the covering threads to be laid side by side in groups which more efficiently cover the portion of the fabric on which such covering threads are laid.

A further object of the invention is to provide a process for forming a hemmed seam of the above type wherein the looper is provided with an additional thread eye adjacent the point thereof with which another needle is adapted to cooperate so as to bind and anchor the covering threads.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine for forming a hemmed seam of the above character with a throat plate which has stitch tongues removably connected to said throat plate in such a manner that said tongues can be adjusted in the direction of the feed.

In the drawings Figure 1 is a perspective view of the upper portion of a hemmed seam containing the invention;

Figure 2 is a similarview of a slightly modified form of hemmed seam;

Figure 3 is a perspective view of a portion of a machine of a well known character having the improved thread carrying looper, throat plate and needle arrangement embodied therein;

Figure 4 is a perspective View of the stitching elements shown in Figure 3 and showing the threadin of said elements and the hemmed seam formed thereby;

Figure 5 is a view similar to Figure 4, but showing a different combination of stitching elements Figure 6 is a perspective view of thejimproved throat plate and stitch fingers carried thereby.

The invention is directed broadly to a hemmed seam for fabrics, a process for making said seam, and certain new machine elements for carrying out said'process. The hemmed seam includes in the broadest aspect of the invention a row of thread loops which are passed through the material which is to have a hemmed seam formed thereon back from the edge of the fabric and parallel with which in infolded as indicated F.

said edge. The fabric is preferably folded between this row of stitches and the edge of the fabric back upon itself, thus forming a hem in the fabric. This hem is secured by upper and lower covering loops which in turn are concatenated with the penetratin thread loops. In order to prevent the edgeof the fabric folded back from protruding or penetrating through the covering threads the upper covering threads which lie on the folded over edge of the fabric are formed in groups laid flat against the fabric so that in effect each covering loop consists of a plurality of flatly nested thread loops. This gives more body to these covering loops which insures the covering of the edge of the fabric and any loose projecting thread ends contained there in. In order to firmly attach the covering threads and the penetrating loops to the material even though the hem is very narrow, it is preferred to lay in the covering loops an additional thread loop which extends further inwardly from the edge of the material and is secured by a separate row of penetrating loops which might be termed anchoring loops. It is understood, of course, that the penetrating loops are secured to the under or lower face of the fabric by a thread loop which extends to the edge of the fabric where it is interlocked with the covering thread loops or said penetrating loops themselves may be carried to the edge of the fabric and there interlocked with the covering threads which form the covering loops for the upper face of the fabric.

Referring to Figure 1 of the drawings, there is shown therein a fabric F, the edge of A. row of thread loops i are passed through the fabric F just inside of the edge of the folded in portion F. In Figure 4 of the drawings, the process and machine for forming the renamed seam shown in Figure 1 are illus trated and possibly the hemmed seam will be better understood by reference to this Figure 4:, and also to Figure 3, in connection with the ClGSCllPtlOHOf the seam. This hemmed seam is preferably made on the sewing machine which is provided with two needles 0 and p.

and the directionof the feed.

These needles are mounted in the usual needle barreciprocated in the usual way. The two needles are set in a plane which is obliquely arranged relative to the edge of the material Thus it is that the needles are staggered so that the penetrating loop formed by one needle will be in rear of the penetrating loop formed by the other needle. Cooperating with these needles 0 and p is a looper Z which is of the thread carrying type. The thread of this looper isin- 'dicated at Z. The looper is so set as to pass into both of the needle thread loops beneath "the material as clearly shown in Figure 4.

Cooperating with this looper Z is a thread carrying looper-a. Said looper a has the ordidrawings.

nary thread guide a at the heel thereof. The looper is also provided with a group of eyes 0 near the front end of the looper. These eyes 0 are arranged one above the other. The cov ering threads 7 pass through the guide a and then through the eyes 0 there being one covering thread for each eye. While there has been shown three thread eyes 0 it will be understood, of course, that the number of thread eyes may be varied. At the extreme forward end of the looper there is another thread eye or group of eyes 6. These eyes Z) and c are set a sufficient distance apart so that the needle 0 will pass into the thread loopsof the threads passing through the thread eyes 0 and also into the thread loop of the covering threads passing through the eyes 6. The needle p, however, will pass into the covering loops formed by the threads passing through the tiread eyes I) of the looper only.

After the looper Zhas passed through the needle thread loops beneath the fabric, it moves to a point where the looper a will pass through the loop formed in the thread Z. This causes the upper and lower covering thread loops to be interlocked at the edge of the fabric as shown in the drawings. The threads carried by the looper a are locked or held by the needle thread loops after the manner thus described. The covering thread loops f'extend over the folded in portion of the material and are secured by the needle thread i. The covering threads, however, passing through the eyes I) of the looper a will pass on through the loops in the needle thread i and will be secured by the loops in the needle thread is. The eyes 0 of the looper a are so arranged that the loops in the covering threads passing through these eyes will lie nested together on the face of the ma terial as clearly shown in Figure '1 of the The covering thread 9 which is the thread passing through the eye 6 of the looper extends to a point where it is secured by'the anchoring thread loops 70. By this nesting of the covering thread loops a very efficient covering is formed for the turned in portion of the material. Even though the edge of the material be a raw cut edge the ends of the thread will be held down and will not protrude above the face of the covering threads. This hemmed seam is especially adapted for theiedging of pocket handkerchiefs or similar goods where it is desired to make the hem or turned in portion very narrow. In the finished article the turned in portion is not only very well covered but the covering thread portions are also anchored and securely fastened to the edge of the fabric.

In the preferred form of the machine there is a throat plate Q having the usual feed slots formed therein. Said throat plate is also provided with a removable section 1" which is secured to the main section of the throat its (ill

plate by means of the screws 8 passing through slots in the section 1" and screwed into the main part of the plate. This section 1', forms one wall of the inner feed slot and also the inner wall of the recess or throat in which the looper operates from beneath the material. It is provided with a stitch finger t which tapers toward the free end thereof and this stitch finger lies outside of the needle so that the covering threads carried by the loopers will be interlocked over this stitch finger and will slide off from the finger when the feed fabric takes place. By adjusting the section a" of the throat plate the stitch finger may be moved further beyond the needle and thus properly positioned for supporting the threads during the interlocking of the covering threads. The section 1 of the throat plate is also provided with a slot to which extends the entire length thereof and is parallel with the edge of the section 4 and parallel with the longitudinal axis of the stitch finger. Located in this slot to is another finger n which extends between the two needles and helps to support the threads and the edge of the fabric during the laying of the covering threads. This stitch. finger u is likewise adjustable in an end-wise direction and is held in the slot and in its adjusted positions by a headed screw '0 threaded into the section 0" and overlying said finger.

This throat plate is provided also with an outwardly extending and inwardly curved lip which in a sense is a part of the stitch finger t. This member, however, operates as a hem folder for turning the edge of the material back onto the body portion thereof as the terial is fed into the machine. This member operates in the well known manner in the connection with the forming of hemmed seams.

In Figure 2 of the drawings there is shown a slightly modified form of the hemmed seam in that the covering thread 9 has been omitted otherwise this hemmed seam is precisely that shown in Figure 1 and is made in the same manner as described above.

In Figure 5 of the drawings there has been shown a slightly modified arrangement of the stitching elements. In this form of the invention the needle 39 is omitted. The lower looper indicated at S is a known thread carrying looper and said looper or spreader merely carries the needle thread loops of the needles above the edge of the fabric sufiiciently so that said loop may be locked by the upper thread carrying looper. thread carrying looper as shown in this figure and indicated at his likewise of a well known type except that it has been changed so as to provide a series of thread eyes 0 for handling the covering threads It is understood, of course, that this looper it passes through the needle thread loop 21 which is carried and The upper held positioned by the spreader S so that said looper k can pass into the same. In this form of the invention there are no anchoring covering threads but the covering threads laid are formed into a series of nested loops lying flat side by side on the hemmed seam.

It will be understood from the above description that not only a new hemmed seam has been formed but a new process of forniing hemmed seams whereby a resulting seam operates to more efiiciently cover and protect the hemmed edge of the material and the threads of the hemmed seam are efiicienth anchored in the material although the turned over portion of the fabric is extremely narrow. It will be understood that from certain aspects of the invention tiie concatenation of the threads and the anchoring of the same which has been described in detail particularly the nesting of the covering threads may he uset for forming an overseam or edge-covering without any hemming or infolding of the material. The inner stitch tongue it is likewise tapered so that the thread loops will readily slip oii' from the end of the same when the feed takes place. These tongues may be independently adjusted and v are adjusted when found necessary in connection with the changing in the length of the stitch and, of course, when said tongues wear away. These tongues may be readily removed and others substituted therefor as they wear while the throat plate is exposed to very much less wear. While the looper for the covering threads has been described as having an eye adjacent the point thereof, it will be understood that a plurality of eyes may be formed at the point and arranged one above the other so as to form nested covering threads which likewise perform the function of anchoring the seam.

Having thus d scribed my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. A" hemmed seam comprising a fabric, two parallel rows of independent thread loops spaced from each other and spaced from the edge of the fabric, covering threads for the edge of the fabric including a series of nested thread loops which are locked by each penerating thread loop in the row adjacent the edge of the fabric, and an independent cover ing thread loop nested about said covering thread loops and extending underneath the thread forming tne outer row of th ead loops and secured by the inner row of thread loops whereby said covering loops are anchored and firmly secured to the fabric.

2. A l emined comprising a fabric,

two parallel rows of independent thread loops thread loops which are locked by each pene trating thread loop in the row adjacent the edge of the fabric, and an independent covering thread loop nested about said covering thread loops and extending underneath the thread forming the outer roW of thread loops and secured by the inner row of thread loops whereby said covering loops are anchored and firmly secured to the fabric, said fabric between the outer row of thread loops and the edge thereof being infolded so as to be covered by said nested thread loops.

3. An overedge seam for fabrics comprising two parallel rows of independent needle thread loops spaced from each other and spaced from the edge of the fabric, covering threads for the edge of the fabric including a series of nested thread loops which are locked by the penetrating thread loops in the row adjacent the edge of the fabric, and an independent covering thread loop nested about the covering thread loops and extending underneath the thread forming the outer row of thread loops and secured by the inner row of thread loops, and a row of under thread loops securing the needle thread loops and secured by the nested covering thread loops.

In testimony whereof, I aihx my signature.

KARL MAIER.

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