US1734203A - Means for fitting lasts and shoes - Google Patents

Description

Nm. 5, wzgf w. J. DE WITT MEANS FOR FITTING LASTS AND SHOES Original Filed April 2l, 1927 2 Sheets-Shem- Wifi/fje Nov. 5, i929 w. J. DE WITT 19734303 MEANS FOR FITTING `LAsTs AND sHoEs Original Filed April 21, 1927 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 jar/eidg?? Patented Nov. 5, 1929 A'Um'rao 'STA WILLIAM J. DE WITT, OF AUBURN, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO THE SHOE FORM CO., INC., OF AUBURN, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK 'MEANS FOR FITTING LASTS AND SHOES Original application led April 21, 1927, Serial No. 185,615. Divided vand this application filed November 14', 1927. SerialN'o. 232,962.

This application is a division of my co-` pending application Serial No. 185,615, filed April 21, 1927.

This invention pertains to a method of litting lasts and footwear and to means suitable for use in practicing this method. Shoe manufacturers are constantly endeavoring to design shoes of novel shape and appearance and for every such new shape a new style of last must be made. The trade demands that all lasts of a given size and width be of certain standard dimensions regardless of style, wand when the last maker is called upon to provide an excess amount of material at one part ofthe last for example, he must do so at the expense of material at some other part. Thus,there is no certainty that a shoe made upon the new last will fit a human foot properly and it becomes necessary to make one or more, usually several, test shoes upon the new last and to try such test shoes upon anormal foot of the proper size.

When such a test shoe has been placed upon the foot, portions of the shoe are cut away,

for example at the toe, heel and shank, to permit inspection of the actual it'of the shoe upon the foot. In accordance with this determination, the lastis modified and, if necessary, another test shoe is made and the process repeated until a reasonably good A'fit and approximation to the desired shape is obtained.

This method is slow and expensive and at best represents only an approximation to the desired result, since the test shoe can only be cut away at a relatively few points (if it is to preserve its shape) and, although the it of the shoe may not be good at intervening points, there is no way of determining this fact.

In accordance with my present invention I provide last-testing means consisting of a thin-Walled transparent form, shell or envelope comprising toe and heelportions and a sole uniting such portions. This shell is first molded over the last to be tested, the molding of such a form or envelope taking but little time and being accomplished, if desired, in accordance with the process and by means of the apparatus disclosed in my Patent No. 50 1,585,284 dated May 18, 1926. The material usual methods,thus resulting in the production of improved lasts and better fitting shoes, while at the same time the cost of production is actually reduced.

While the transparent form, shell oir envelope above described is primarily intended for testing lasts, it has other utilities among whichrmay be mentioned its value in det-ermining the iit of a pair of shoes. In recent years, many so-called health shoes or footfitting shoes have been placed upon the market, such shoes being advertised to con-- form more closely and accurately to the anatomy of the normal foot than ordinary shoes. As these health shoes commonly sell at ahigher price than the ordinary shoe, it is usually essential, in order to make a sale, to convince the prospective purchaser of their superior qualities, but it is a difficult matter for the salesman to prove, except in a more or less general way, those points of superiority which are claimed for the shoe, since the opacity and vinherent stiffness ofthe material of the shoe make it practically impossible for the customer to comprehend the real accuracy of fit.

In accordance with the present invention,

' the salesman may apply to the customers foot jone of the thin-walled transparent testing forms or envelopes herein described, such form, of course, corresponding accurately inl lshape and size to a shoe made upon the same last and, since the foot is clearly visible through the substance of this form, the salesman may readily point out the superior fitting qualities of the particular style of shoe which heis trying to sell.

Further, the dealer in shoes of ordinary type may advantageously provide himself with an assortment of these last-testing shells or forms, representing various styles of last,

and by trying such forms upon the customers foot may determine with the greatest ease 5 and accuracy the style of last most suitable for foot comfort, a method of fitting which is very superior to the present method, which depends largely upon artificial length and width standards.

Moreover, these fitting forms or envelopes may, if desired, be used for holding shoes in properly distended condition during manufacture, while being shipped, on exhibition, or in the intervals between periods of wear, and in some respects are superior. to usual forms for these purposes. Thus, since this fitting form is provided with a sole uniting the forepart and heel portions, it is possible to reduce the depth of the side walls of the form to zero, if desired, at the shank portions, whereby to permit its use with an eX- tremely low cut shoe, but even when so reduced at its shank portion, the form still preserves its true length and the proper relation of the toe and heel.

Ordinarily, it is not necessary to cut the side walls entirely away at the shank, but, in any event, the improved form preferably has a hinge, weakened, or flexible connection between the forepart and rear portion. As herein disclosed, this' line of flexibility is at the forward part of the shank or near the ball of the foot. This flexible connection facilitates the removal of the form or envelope from the last and the insertion of the foot into the form or the introduction of the form into a shoe, and also permits the buyer of a shoe having such a form therein to flexthe shoe sole to demonstrate the quality of such special arch or shank supports as may be provided. v

Although the form is preferably flexible I at the ball 'portion and may have the depth of its side walls greatly reduced at the shank, the bottom or sole of the form so reinforces and strengthens the remaining portion of the side walls at the shank as Well as at the forepart and heel of the form as to provide all the necessary stiffness and durability. y

When used either as a fitting or shoe-distending form, shell or envelope, I may furnish it with a strap support preferably,though not necessarily, hinged or pivoted to the body of the form. When such a strap support is provided in aiitting form, it serves to indicate the location of the instep arch and when used in a display form it supports the strap of the shoe or pump in which itis placed.

Under some circumstances the flexibility at the ball portion of the form or envelope may be eliminated -and the form may be .substantially rigid from end to end, although, as above pointed out, I prefer in most cases to make the form flexible.

65 Othe/r, and minor features of construction and advantages of the herein disclosed method and article will be pointed out here f inafter, reference being made to the accompanying drawings in which:

Fig. 1 1s a side elevation of a transparent form, shell or envelope useful in performing Fig. 4; v

Fig. 6 is a longitudinal section on the line 6 6 of Fig. 5; i

Figs. 7 and 8 are vertical sections on the lines 7 7 and 8 8 respectivelyof Fig. 5;

Fig. 9 is a side elevation of a further modification in which the form is cut awayvat the shank portion and is provided with a strapsupporting bridge; l

Fig. 10 is a section on the line 10 10 of Fig. 9;

Figs. 11, 12 and 13 are sections on the lines l1 11, 12-12 and 13 13 respectively of Fig. 9;

Fig. 14 is a side elevation of a still further modification; and l Fig. 15 is a diagram illustrating the method of measuring a last.

TheV .several component parts of the form are preferably made of transparent Celluloid or equivalent material, and in Figs. 1, 2 and `3, the numeral 1 designates the toe or forepart portion of the form or envelope, such toe or forepart being molded about the toe portion of the last to be tested, or if the form is to be used for fitting shoes such toe portion will be nolded about a last corresponding in style and size to a given shoe. This toe portion may conveniently be molded in ae, cordance with the process and by means of the apparatus disclosed in my Patent No. 1,585,284, dated May 18, 1926, or in any other suitable and convenient way.

The toe portion 1 is open at its rear end as shown at 2 and is provided at its lower edge with an inturned flange 3. The form also comprises a heel portion 4 which, as shown in Flgs. 1, 2 and 3, is permanently closed at its rear end and comprises the side Walls 4 and 5 and has an inturned flange 6 at its lower edge.

The toe and heel portions are united by a sole 7, preferably inserted into the toe and heel portions and united to the upper surfaces of the respective flanges 3 and 6 in` any suitable manner. For example, if, as suggested, the toe, heel and sole are made of Celluloid, the parts may be united by soften*v ing their engaging surfaces by the application of some solvent for Celluloid, such for instance as acetone, and then holding the parts in engagement until the solvent has evaporated, thus producing a substantially integral and homogeneous union. The invention is not limited to the particular mode of securing the parts together, and it is obvious that other attaching means m'ght be employed if desired. Preferably, for strengthening the forepart of the form, I provide a cross bar 3x which is secured at its opposite ends to the flange 3 at the ball portion ofy the form, and which if desired may also be united to the sole 7.

Certain types of'last, particularly those intended for use in making the so-called health shoes, are. provided with humps or elevations in their bottom surfaces, and when the last is provided with a depression corresponding to such a hump in the shoe sole, the sole 7 of the sheet or form will have a corresponding hump 8 in its upper surface.

The toe and heel portions of the form shown in lFigs. 1 to 3 inclusive do not meet but are spaced apart at the shank so that the form is very flexible atvthis point, the toe and heel portions being connected only by the thin sole 7, which is readily flexed. This flexibility of the sole at this point, lparticularly when the form is closed at the rear, is very desirable since its permits the form to be placed over or removed from a last or the foot and also greatly vfacilitates the insertion of the form within a shoe if it be employed as a shoe-distending form.

In Figs. 4 to 8, I have illustrated a modified construction in which the toe part 1a, which is open at the rear as indicated at 2a, is furnished with the inturned bottom flange 3B in the same way as the form above described. This form also comprises a heel portion but in this instance the sole 7a, which is secured to the flange 3a of the toe part 1a, is turned up at its lateral margins to provide integral side Walls 9 and 1() which extend rearwardly Jfrom the toe portion to the heel where they are preferably curved inwardly to overlap as indicated at 9'i and 10n respectively, in the manner disclosed in my Patent No. 1,632,953, dated J une 21. 1927. I also prefer to provide an integral tab `11 at the extreme rear end of the sole 7a, such tab being turned upwardly as indicated in Fig. 8 and being disposed just within the overlapping end portions of the side walls. This tab 11 stiffens the heel endof the form and provides a smooth and rounded surface at the interior of the form at the lower part of the heel. The forward ends 13 and 14 respectively of the side walls 9 and 10 preferably overlap the rear margins 15 and 16 of the toe portion 1"L as shown in Figs. 4 and 5. These forward overlapping potions 13 and.14 are thus supported by the toe portion of the form and prevent the :form from curling inwardly when subjected to pressure during use. The sole 7a of this form is also shown as provided with al hump 8' of the same kind as shown at 8 in Fig. 2. As the parts 13 and 14 are not attached to the underlying parts 15 and 16, they do not interfere with the ability of the form to flex about a transverse axis adjacent to the ball of the foot, so that `the form may be flexed with substantially the same ease as the form shown in Figs. 1 to 3. However the side walls 9 and 10, which extend along the' shank, may

be depended -upon to support the upper of a shoe if the form is inserted therein, while at the same time, as above noted the overlapping engagement of the partspreserves their shape and stifens the form transversely.

When this form is used for testing lasts designed "for use in making extremely low cut shoes or for holding such shoes in shape it may be constructed vlas shown in Figs. 9 to 12 inclusive, the forepart 'la being substantially the same as that just described', such forepart having the inturned flange 3a to which the sole' 7 isl secured. In the same way, as just described, the sole is provided with upturned integral marginal portions 9 and 10 which form the heel end of the form or envelope and which may, if desired, be over- .lapped at the lrear end in the manner above described. rIhe forward ends of the side- Jwalls 9 and 10 may also overlap the rear part of the toe portion as indicated :for example at 95.

v13, but in this instance the side walls 9 and 10.are cut down at the shank portion as indicatedy at 9b and 1()b (Fig. 11) respectively, while the rear margins of thetoe portion are likewise shown as cut down as indicated at 16 in Fig. 9. rlhe form thus comprises the toe portion 1a, which is open'well down along the cone of the last, and a heel portion similar to that disclosed in Fig. 1, but with liow side walls 9b and 10b extending from the heel portion to the toe portion. As these sidewalls are not connected at their overlapping parts to the toe portion,th e form is flexible at the shank or ball portion, but nevertheless the very narrow side Walls 9" and 10b are stiff enough to support the upper of a shoe, since they are integrally united to the sole 7a and the arched form thus providell imparts the necessary strength at this point to prevent inward bending or collapse of the Walls.

In Fig. 9 I have indicated a strap supporting bridge-17 secured to rearv portion of the form. This bridge is of the general type disclosed in my Patent No. 1,585,284, above meng1g@ tioned preferably consisting of outer and inner nested layers of Celluloid or like material, bent to arch form and united except at their ends by means of suitable adhesive or otherwise. .The end portions of the outer and inner layers of this bridge member are separable, and in applying the bridge member to the form its inner and outer plies are straddled over the edges of the Walls 9 and 10 4 as indicated in Fig. 13, and in accordance with the present invention the ends of the bridge are pivotally secured to the form by means of'eyelets i8 and 19, or any other suitable type of pivot member. By pivotally securing the bridge member to the formit may be yis secured to the inner side of the form, overlapping the walls 20 and the rear margins of the toe portion, such plate being united to both parts and holding them rigid. The rear end of this form is preferably provided with overlapping portions 23 which,\in this instance at least are preferably unconnected so as to facilitate removal of a last from the A form or the introduction of the form into a shoe. If after placing theV form in a shoe it be desired to unite the heel portions of this or any other of the above types of form, this may readily be done by moistening the opposite surfaces with a Celluloid solvent so that upon evaporation of the solvent they become integrally united. l

In Fig. 15 I have illustrated diagrammatically the method of measuring a last. The last shown in this figure is size 4B and in this view the standard measurements at the heel,

instep, waist and ball are indicated. As above noted, any change in style of the last must conform to these standard measurements. That is to say, for example, if the cone of the last is to be made higher than shown in this ligure, the last must be Acontracted in width or otherwise further modilied in order to make the measurements at the instep and Waist correspond tothe standard measurements.

In making a last inl accordance with the present process a trial last is dfirst made, such last being as near as possible to the desired style and conforming to the standard measurements. A hollow form of envelope such as herein disclosed is then made upon this last, the toe, heel and sole portions being molded over the last separately, if desired, and then united while yon the last so that they will accurately conform to the outer surface of the last. This transparent thin form, shell or envelope is then removed from the last and tried upon a normal foot of the proper size., Due to the transparency and flexibility of this form it may readily be determined by inspection and without cutting the form or otherwise changing its shape whether it fits the foot or not, and particularly to note those waartoe points where the form istoo full or too scant rllhese points may then be marked upon the form and the original last' correspondingly modified ora new last made in accordance with the determinations thus obtained., If necessary a second shell or form may be made upon this new or modified last and another trial made upon the foot and this process may be continued until an accurate fit is obtained The flexibility of the form at the ballirportion facilitates its removal from the last and the introduction of the foot into the form, while at the same time the form is sufficiently stiftl to retain its shape and thus to give accurate indications from which size determinations maybe made N ot only is the form useful for 'testing lasts as above described, but it is useful in assisting the purchaser of a shoe to determine the exact size or shape which should be Worn. rllhus if a shoe retailer provides himself with a series lof these forms corresponding to the shoes ofthe various styles which he has on sale, the purchaser may slip his foot into successive forms and by visual inspection of the foot through thetransparent walls of the form may determine With the greatest accuracy whether any particular style, shape or size properly fits his foot. Having made this determination by the use of the transparent form itis then simply necessary to Select a shoe of the corresponding size and style With the certainty that such shoe will properly fit vthe foot.A I

These forms comprising toe, heel and sole portions are also found useful in holding shoes distended while on exhibition, during transportation, or in intervals between periods of use. llVhen employed for this purpose the resiliency of the sole insures a snug lit of the toe and heel portions within the shoe, the flexibility of the sole at the ball 4portion facilitates introduction and removal of the form, while the sole, which extends along the shank portion, greatly stiffens the sidewalls at this point no matter how low they may be, so that the side walls do not tend tocurl in as might happen if the sole were omitted.

lWhile as illustrated herein the sole consists of a single piece and in the preferred construction is integral with the side Walls, it is obvious that the sole might be made of several pieces if desired, and suitably united, and also that the side walls might be made independent of the sole and secured thereto in any desired manner.

While I have illustrated certain desirable embodiments of my invention, it is to be understood that the present process is not necessarily restricted to the form herein specifically diselosed but may be varied as may occur to those skilled in the art.

I claim:

l. A fit determining shell titl iso

silient transparent material comprising a bottom, forepart and heel portion, said parts conformin closely in size and contour to the surfaces o corresponding parts of a shoe last,

kthe shell being flexible adjacent to its ball portion to permit relative movement ofthe heel and forepart portions.

2. A hollow shoe-like shell of stiflly resilient material comprising a bottom, forepart and heel portion, the forepart and heel portions having side walls, the shell being flexible adjacent to its ball portion thereby permitting relative movement of the side walls of the forepart and heel portions.

3. A hollow shell of transparent celluloid having a forepart and a heel portion, said parts being spaced apart and conforming closely to the corresponding parts of a shoe last, and a bottom member conforming to the under surface of the last, said bottom member uniting the heel andy forepart of the shell.

4. A hollow shell of sheet material comprising a forepart conforming .closely to the contour of the upper surface of the forepart of a shoe last,'the forepart of the shell having an inturned flange at its lower edge, a heel part conforming to the rear part of the last, and a sole, the sole being attached to the heel part and to the inturned flange of the forepart.

5. A hollow shell of sheet material comprising a forepart conforming closely to the contour of the `upper surface of the forepart of a shoe last, the forepart of the shell having an inturned Hange at its lower edge, a sole attached at its forward part to said inturned Aflange, and a heel portion conforming closely to the heel end of the last, said heel portion of the shell being integrally united to the rear art of the sole.

6. A hollow shell of thin celluloid comprising a forepart conforming 'closely to the contour of the upper surface of the toe end of a shoe last, a sole attached to said forepart, and a heel portion secured to the rear part of the sole, said heel portion of the shell comprising side walls normally overlapping at their rear ends.

7. A hollow shell of thin celluloid comprising a forepart conforming closely to the contour of the upper surface of the toe end of a shoe last, a sole attached to said forepart, said sole having an upturned part at its rear end, a 'heel portion having side walls secured at their lower parts to the sole, said side walls having normally overlapping parts disposed adjacent to the said upturned part of the sole.

8. A hollow shell of thin stiff material comprising a forepart conforming closely to the contour of the upper surface of the toe end of a shoe. last, a sole secured to said forepart. and a heel portion secured to the sole, said heel portion having side walls extending forwardly and terminating adjacent to the forepart of the shell.

9. A hollow shell of thin stii material comprising Va forepart conforming closely to the contour of the upper surface of the toe end of a shoe last, a sole secured to 'said forepart, and a heel portion secured to the sole,lsaid heel portion having side walls extending forn wardly and overlapping the side walls of the forepart of the shell.

10. A hollow shell of thin stiff material comprising a forepart conforming closely to the contour of the upper surface of`the toe end of a shoe last, a sole secured to said forepart, and a heel portion secured to the sole, said heel portion having side walls extending forwardly 'and overlapping the side walls of the forepart of the'shell, said overlapping portions being free from the forepart to permit the sole to beflexed at a point adjacent to the ball of the 4shell.

11. A hollow shell of thin stiff material comprising a forepart conforming closely to the contour of the upper surface of the toe end of a shoe last, a sole secured to said forepart, and a heel portion secured to the sole, said heel portion having side walls forming integral continuations of the sole, said side walls overlapping one another at the rear end of the shell and overlapping the forepart of the shell at their forward ends.

12. A hollow shell of thin stiff material comprising a forepart conforming closely to the contour of the upper surface of the toe end of a shoe last, a sole secured to said fore part, and a heel portion secured to the sole, said heel portion having side walls'united to the sole, said side walls overlapping one another at their rear ends, and an integral tab projecting upwardly from the rear end of the sole. y

13. A hollow shell of thin stiff material having fore and rear portions comprising side walls conforming closely to the fore an rear partsrespectively of a shoe last, and a strap support of inverted U-shape pivotally attached to the side walls of the shell.

14. A `hollow shell of thin transparent celluloid having fore and rear portions and ai sole uniting said portions, the fore and rear portions and the sole conforming closely to the corresponding surfaces of a shoe last, and

a strap support of inverted U-shape pivotally v having aforepart and a heel portion, saidV parts conforming closely to the corresponding parts of a shoe last, a bottom member c0n- 6 Mmmm forming to the unclor sofaoo the os:9 sai bottom uning che hoo and orepar't of the shell, anc' having a raised portion upon. tho upger surface horeof.

igned by me ai: Auburn, N. Y., this Nth day of November, 1927..

J., DE mm.

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