US1733375A - Manufacture of stitch-down shoes - Google Patents

Description

Oct. 29, 1929. w. KAUT 1,733,375

MANUFACTURE OF STITCH DOWN SHOES Filed May 22, 1929 2 Sheets-Sheet l .Zra. 4 5,, 1 54 5/ 5/ 54 mwwrae W/m/KAUT By j f ATTORNEY 1929- w. KAUT ,733,375

MANUFACTURE OF STITCH DOWN SHOES Filed May 22, 1929 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 lxvvewroe WM. My 7' Arron/wa Patented Oct. 29, 1929 PATENT GFFECE WILLIAM KAUT, OF UNIVERSITY CITY, MISSOURI MANUFACTURE OF STITCHJDOWN SHOES Application filed May 22,

This invention relates to an improved article of manufacture and a novel method of producing the same, and has for an important object thereof the provision of an improved stitch-down shoe, the toe of which is molded in a novel manner. 1t may be considered that the instant application forms a continuation in part of my co-pending application for Letters Patent of the United 19 States, relating to toe molding machines,

Serial No. 118,786, filed June 26, 1926.

Fig. 1 illustrates a fragmentary vertical section of a machine of the type employed in carrying out my improved method of making stitch-down shoes.

Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig. 1, but showing certain of the movable parts of the structure in moved positions.

Fig. 3 is a fragment of the structure shown in Figs. 1 and 2, but illustrating certain parts in positions different from those in which they are shown in Figs. 1 and 2.

Fig. 4 is a front elevation of a fragment of the mechanism illustrated in Fig. 1.

Fig. 5 is a perspective of the toe-molding means of the machine.

Fig. 6 illustrates a fragment of a shoe being manufactured in accordance with my improved method, said shoe fragment being 30 mounted on a last.

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary perspective of a shoe being manufactured in accordance with my improved method, looking at the upper portion thereof.

Fig. 8 is a perspective of the shoe fragment shown in Fig. 7, but viewed from the bottom thereof.

Referring now to the drawings, 48 designates a member mounted at the upper end of a suitable base portion (not shown) of the machine, said member 418 including a pair of spaced apart upright wall portions 49, each of which is provided with a guideway 50. 51 designates a carrier provided with outwardly extended flanges 52 which extend into the guideways 50, whereby said carrier may be. moved with relation to said wall portions in a direction parallel with the guideways 50. By referring to Figs. 1 and def the drawings the more or less irregular shape- 1929. Serial No. 365,007.

of the carrier will be apparent. In these views the body portion 51 is shown as being extended transversely of the space between the pair of wall portions 49 with the opposite side edges thereof terminating just c short of said wall portions (Fig. 4). Projected forwardly from the front edge of the body portion 51 and extended outwardly in a transverse direction from the opposite side edges thereof is a pair of bars 53 on to which the guides 52 are formed, said bars preferably being formed integral with said body portion 51. In like manner, the bars 53 extend a slight distance upwardly above the top of the body portion 51, and said bars are provided with notches 54 which extend longitudinally thereof.

Formed in the top face of the body portion 51 of the carrier 51 is a channel 55 which extends from the front edge of said body portion to a point slightly in advance of the rear edge thereof, and mounted immediately above said cnannel is a flat spring or other resilient member 56. The flat spring is secured to the body portion 51 at the rear thereof, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, and at its forward end said spring is provided with an upstanding projection 57 which has an inclined face. 58 desi nates the toe-molding plate of my improved machine, said plate eing more or less U-shaped as shown in Fig. 5, and being of such width and thickness that its opposite edge portions may be introduced into the notches 54 in the bars 53 at the forward ends of said notches and 3 slid longitudinally of the notches. The plate 58 is provided with an aperture 59 adjacent to its rear edge, and at its approximate transverse center, and when the plate is slid longitudinally of the notches 54: as described, the rear edge of said plate will contact with the inclined face of the projection 57, whereby the flat spring on which said projection is arranged will be cammed downwardly in a manner to cause the plate to pass over said projection until the aperture 59 moves into vertical registration therewith, when said incline faced projection will snap into said aperture 59. When the incline faced projection is located within the aperture 59 as described, the straight face thereof will be in contact with the rear wall of said aperture and the forward faces of the projections 58 formed on the body portion 51 will contact with the rear edge of the plate 58. In this manner the plate 58 will be attached to the carrier 51 and will move with it when motion is imparted thereto,

designates a cross member which is secured to the body portionol of the carrier 51 at the rear thereof (Figs. 1 and 2), and 61 designates a pair of downwardly extended lugs which preferably are formed integral with the body portion 51 at the forward edge thereof. 62 designates a member, the opposite edge portions of which are extended into oppositely disposed guideways 63 at the lower portion of the body portion 51', which guideways extend from front to rear of said body portion. The member 62 is in contact with the lower face of the body portion 51 of the carrier 51 and is interposed between the cross, member and the downwardly extended lugs 61, and said member is in turn provided with downwardly extended lugs (34: which are alined with the lugs 61. The lugs (51 and 6d are provided with spring seats, and interposed between each cooperating pair of lugs and seated in the spring seats thereof is a coil spring (35. It is plain that as a result of the expansion of the coil spring 65, the member 2 is forced rearwardly until the rear edge thereof contacts with the forward edge of the cross member (30.

(56 designates a bar which is carried by the carrier and extends transversely with respect thereto, and 67 designates upstanding lugs which are arranged adjacent to the opposite ends of said member. Pivotally supported by the lugs (37 is a weight (58, said weight being in the form of a U-shaped bar, and being capable of being moved about it pivots (59 from the position in which it is shown in Fig. 1 to a position where it rests upon the last L. The weight 68 is provided with a handle 70 to facilitate handling thereof.

71 designates a toggle comprising a pair of arms pivotally connected together at their inner ends, the outer end of the rearmost of said arms being pivotally attached to a stationary part of the machine at 72, and the outer end of the forward arm being pivot-ally atta-l it at 73 to :1 lug 74 extended downwart, y from the member 62. The inner ends of the anus-which are pivotaily attached together have pivotally secured to them at the point of zttachment a downwardly extended rod 75, at the lower end of which said rod is pivotally attached to, the inner end of a foot pedal 76, which foot pedal is in turn pivoted at 77 to a fixed member 7 8. 79 designates a coil spring one end of which is attached to the toggle 71 at the point where the two arms coin sing same are attached together, and the other end, at said spring is attached to a stationary part of the machine, so that the inner attached ends of said arms will be drawn downwardly.

It is obvious that in the operation of the machine pressure on the outer end of the foot pedal 76 will move the inner ends of the arms comprising the toggle 71 upwardly, and as the real-most arm of said toggle is fired to the machine frame, the forward arm of the toggle will be moved forwardly of the machine, carrying the carrier 51 with it, which carrier will slide longitudinally of the guideways 50. The downward movement of the foot pedal will be continued until the pivotally attached inner ends of the arms comprising the toggle 71 pass dead center, or, in other wor s, move to a position where they are inclined upwardly toward their inner ends, where upward movement of said pivotally attached inner ends will stop. 'hen the to le is in the position described,

will be maintained in a locked condition and the carrier will be maintained in a forwa d or advanced position.

80 de gnates a toggle trip lever which is pivoted at 81 to suitable brackets fixed to the machine, said trip lever being arranged in vertical alineinent with the toggle 71 and having a portion which contacts with the inner portions of the arms comprising the tog.- gle when said trip lever is swung on its pivot in a manner to force said pivotally attached inner ends of said arms downwardly to break 1 i toggle a n d permit the spring 79 to return it to the position in which it is shown in Fig.

l. .he trip lerer is provided with a handle portion 83 and a weighted portion 8% to re to the position in which it is shown in Fig. 1 after said lever has been operated.

Pivotally attached to the base of the machine at the point indicated by the reference character 85 is a second foot pedal 86 to which a vertically attached rod 87 is pivotally attached at the point indicated by the reference character 88. T he upper end of the rod 87 is pivotally attached at 89 to a member 90, which member is provided with a tubular portion 91. posed rod which is arranged for vertical movement in suitable bearings 93, and said rod extends through the tubular portion 91 of the member and is rigidly fixed thereto by a set screw 9 f. Fixed to the rod 92 adjacent to the upper end thereof is a collar 9.. and mounted on said rod above said collar is a member 96 having a vertically disposed tubular portion 96 and a horizontally disposed tubular portion 96". The vertically disposed tubular portion 96" surrounds the upper nortion of the rod 92, the'lower face thereor resting on the collar 95, and suitable means such as the nut 96 and washer 97 is employed to prevent upward displacement of the member 96 with respect to the upper end portion of the rod 92. The member 96 is 92 designates a vertically discapable of swinging in an arc of a circle about the rod 92.

Extended into the tubular portion 96 is a horizontally disposed rod 98, said tubular portion being provided with an elongated slot 99, through which a set screw or similar element 100 is passed, which set screw is rigidly associated at its inner end with the rod 98. Fixed to the rod 98 at the forward end thereof is a handle 101, and pivotally at tached to the lower end of said handle at the point designated by the reference character 102 is a heating and pressing iron 103. The heating and pressing iron 103 is provided with a flat lower pressing face, and said iron is provided with an opening formed therein into which a suitable electrical heating unit 104: is extended, to which electrical energy is conducted by means of conductors 105. 106 designates a coil spring, one end of which is attached to the upper end of the rod 87, the other end thereof being secured to a stationary part of the machine. The function of the spring 106 is to return the heating and pressing iron 103 and its associated parts to their elevated positions after they have been drawn downwardly by depression of the forward end of the lever 86.

In the operation of the machine illustrated in the drawings, the last L shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3 is mounted in any convenient manner. The last L will, of course, have the upper, lining and box toe material of ashoe mounted on it, and the lasting allowance or the portions of the shoe elements which are subsequently shaped to provide an outwardly extended flange on the shoe are extended upwardly, as shown in Fig. 1. When the shoe has been properly positioned with respect to the cooperating parts of the machine, the foot pedal 76 will be engaged by the operator and the forward end thereof depressed. This will result in the carrier 51, which supports the toemolding plate 58, being moved forwardly, and said toe-molding plate will engage the shoe upper in such manner that the top face of said. plate will be approximately alined horizontally with the top face of the last L. When the toe molding plate has been positioned as described, the toe portion of the last with the shoe upper arranged thereon will extend into the cut-out portion of the plate 58. whereby the side portions of said plate will engage the side portions of the last. This will result in the outer leather, box toe material, and lining (if lining be used) being drawn closely about the toe portion of the last so that the shoe is provided with a smooth toe portion. The toe-molding plate moves into contact with the shoe parts on the last just as the toggle 71 passes over dead center, hence said toe-molding plate will remain locked in its advanced position until the toggle is broken by operating the trip lever 80. The function of the coil springs is to permit the carrier 51 and the plate 58 to yield slightly, if this-be necessary, to prevent injuring the shoe. However, these springs are of sufficient strength to cause the outer leather, box toe material, and the lining to be drawn closely about the toe portion of the last.

After the toe portion of the shoe has been molded as described, and while the toe-molding plate is in contact therewith, the outer end of the foot pedal 86 is depressed to draw the heating and pressing iron 103 down wardly into contact with the upper face of the last, and as said heating and pressing iron reaches the top of the last the handle 101 is grasped and said heating and pressing iron is moved laterally and forward y in contact with the top face of the last to press the last ing allowance of the shoe parts (which until this time was extended upwardly) horizontally and outwardly to provide the shoe with an outwardly extended flange portion at the toe portion thereof, said flange being pressed the top face of the toe-molding plate 58. hen the heated iron 103 is applied to the box toe material, said material will be softened and the tar-like substance with which it is treated will become sticky or tacky enough to cause the box toe material and the other shoe parts to stick together; that is to say, the flange portions of the leather of the upper, the margin of the box toe, and the margin of the lining, if one is used, will all be molded together and cemented or vulcanized in that condition by reason of the fact that the heat causes the substance with which the box toe is impregnated to exude on both sides of the box, and the pressure brings about the cementing action between the parts.

After the outwardly extended flange has been shaped as described, the heating and pressing iron 103 is permitted to move upwardly and the weight 68 is moved about its pivot to a position where it rests upon the outwardly turned flange of the shoei Also. the toe-molding plate 58 is maintained in contact with the toe portion of the shoe upper, as already described. The machine parts are allowed to remain in these positions until the flange on the shoe has cooled and thus has taken on a permanent set, when the weight will be returned to its normal position and the carrier 51 and the toe-molding plate 58 will be returned to their rearward positions by breaking the toggle with the aid of the trip lever 80, whereupon the last and shoe are ready for removal from the machine.

Due to the fact that the shoe parts illustrated in Figs. 1, 2 and 3 are quite small. I have not attempted to show in these views the precise elements making up the shoe upper. However, in Figs. 6, 7 and 8 larger views of a shoe being manufactured in accordance with my improved method are illustrated, and in these views A designates the outer leather of the shoe upper, B the looX toe material thereof, and Cthe lining. Also, in Fig. 7 the reference character D designates a crease *hich is formed at the point where the operative edge of the toe forming plate 58 contacts with the shoe upper when said toe forming plate is moved forwardly by operation of the toggle associated therewith.

Now, in disclosing the practice of the novel method that involves the use of a machine of the type described, it is to be observed at the outset that there are, generally speaking, three different kinds of stitch-down shoes: First, the one which is unlined and does not include an insole; second, the one which is liner and does not include an insole; and third, the one which is lined and has the lining lasted to an insole. The improved method may be practiced with equal facility and. success in the manufacture of all three types of these shoes, but for the sake of clarity the following paragraphs will describe first the making of the shoes without insoles, and next the making of those with insoles.

So, speaking of lined and unlined stitchdown shoes without insoles, the upper is assembled in the ordinary manner on the last and submitted to a common pulling over operation during which the bottom edge of the forepart, at spaced localities, is grasped and pulled to draw the forepart smoothly over the toe of the last, in which state the forepart is secured by means of suitable fastenin gs. Next, the heel seat of the shoe is lasted in and anchored, following which the toe portion of the lasted upper is softened, or ten'ipercd, as for example, by steaming it until the leather of. the toe, and also a box toe lying adjacent to the leather, are soft and pliable. In this connection it should be stated that since box toes are impregnated with a substance such as creosote, latex, etc., which becomes tacky or sticky upon being heated to a certain temperature, it is always advisable to have a lining interposed between the box toe and the last, and hence, even in making unlined stitch-downs, it is expedient to employ a tip lining to prevent the box from stickin to the last and also to protect the foot or the one who subsequently wears the shoe.

When the portion of the assembled upper has been sufliciently softened, the machine which is illust 'atcd in the drawings may be employed to perform the toe molding operation. In the performance of this ope 'ation the pulled over upper is held against slipping while the toe end fastening (which was inserted during the pulling-over operation) is removed. Any wrinkles appearing in that portion of the upper covering the toe of the last are next pulled out, and the smoothed toe is placed in engagement with the toe forming means, the top of which lies approximately flush with the bottom plane of the last, the side pulling-over fastenings are removed, and the toe is formed to assume a smooth and hard formation, as already .described.

Turning now to the manner of making a stitch-down shoe in which the lining is lasted to the insole, one satisfactory method of practicing the process comprises temporarily fastening the insole to the last bottom, pulling over, and heel seat lasting the upper, (as already described), to the insole and last. Then, without removing the pulling-over fastenings, applying a coat of cement around the exposed margin of the insole, and the inner margin of the lining, as is customary in this process. Still without removing the pulling-over fastenings, the cement coated margin of the lining is bent over and pressed, or lasted, firmly against the cement coated margin of the insole. lVhen this has been done, the shoe is ready for the toe forming operation and the process is completed exactly as described above, except that the cemented margin of the lining is left turned in, and only the marginalportions of the box toe and of the upper are turned out and molded together to form the'stiff flange. Y

It is another feature of the invention to form the toe and the lateral marginal flange in such a fashion that a small, but clearly defined and well formed, crease D will mark the junction between the toe and the flange, whereby the lining, box-toe and leather of the molded upper are anchored against relative movement by means of the crease alone, regardless of the welding action. It is also to be realized, however, that the invention contemplates applying heat along the line of crease only, whereby the lining, box-toe and upper are welded very tightly together along that line only.

In forming the outwardly turned flange, the box-toe margin may, if desired, be turned in over the insole, and the upper only turned out, to eliminate the edge of the margin of the box-toe from appearing in the edge of the finished shoe.

Still another feature of the invention consists in performing the above described toe forming operation in such manner that, upon completion, the forepart, or toe, of the upper is rigidly secured to the last, notwithstanding the absence of all solid fastenings. This feature is accomplished by beveling the bottom edge of the forepart of a last from the tip line on one side a)- the tip line on the other, as shown at E in Fig. 6, and in molding the shoe in such a manner that the crease is located within the bevel, below the bulge of the side walls of the last. Thus, when the shoe has cooled, it may be removed and handled freely without danger of the molded toe becoming disarranged, notwithstanding the absence of fastenings of any sort. The beveled edge also presents a uniformly shaped surface for receiving the pressure that is applied in molding the crease.

After the toes have been formed it will be found a comparatively simple matter to finish lasting in the shoe by any of the usual methods practiced in the manufacture of stitch-down shoes. The toe has been formed efliciently and facilely, there are no metal fastenings subsequently to interfere with the stitching operations, etc., and the molded flange serves-as a reinforcing rib in supporting the shoe in position while cement lasting, staple lasting, or stitching the remainder of the upper to the insole, or to the sole in the event that an insole is not employed.

iVhile the invention has been discussed with particular reference to the method, it

- is to be appreciated that one of its objects resides in the provision of a shoe, as an improved article of manufacture, provided with a mole ed toe, flange, or both, of the character above described.

I claim:

1. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises moving a heated element relative to and in contact with one of a plurality of shoe parts, one of which is impregnated with a substance which becomes tacky upon the application thereto of heat, for the purpose of simultaneously ap plying heat and pressure to said plurality of shoe parts, removing said heated element from said shoe parts, and applying additional pressure thereto while the shoe parts are allowed to cool, whereby they are adhesively molded together.

2. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises bending the bottom edge portions of a lasted upper, including a box toe having a sticky substance associated. therewith, into a position in which hey are disposed in a plane extending subtantially parallel to the last bottom, applyin heat and pressure to said edge portions, wl ereby one of them becomes tacky and the others are adhesively molded thereto, discontinuing the application of heat and pressure to said edge portions, and cooling the heated edge portions while applying additional pressure thereto.

3. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises bending the bottom edge portions of the forepart of a lasted upper, including a box toe having tacky substance associated therewith, into a plane lying substantially parallel to the plane of the last bottom. applying heat and pressure to the bent edge portions by moving a heated element in a plurality of directions, including 'ansversely with respect to the major axis of the shoe, while said heated element is in contact with said bent edge portions, whereby the tacky substance with which the box toe of the upper is impregnated is caused to soften and exude, removing said heated element from said bent edge portions, applying additional pressure to said bent edge portions while cooling said portions, whereupon the bent edge portions assume the. form of a stiff flange disposed approximately in the plane of the last bottom.

That improvement in methods of manufacturing stitch-down shoes, which comprises assembling the upper on a last, applying heat and pressure to mold the toe of the upper and simultaneously molding the edge portions of the upper which project beyond the bottom of the last into an outwardly projecting flange lying substantially within the plane of the last bottom, and forming a crease at the joint of the molded flange and toe, the crease being formed below the bulge of the side walls of the molded toe, whereby the portions of the u per forming the toe are held by means of the crease and flange against movement relative to each other, discontinuing the application of heat and pressure to the upper, and cooling the shoe while applying additional pressure to the outwardly pro ecting flange.

5. That improvement in methods of manufacturing stitch-down shoes which comprises assembling the upper, including a box toe having a tacky substance associated therewith, on a last, bending outwardly the bottom edge portions of the upper that project beyond the last bottom, softening the forepart of the uper by steam, molding the toe of the forepart and simultaneously molding the flange by means of heat and pressure, whereby the substance with which the box toe is impregnated exudes and the leather of the upper, the portion of the box toe, and the margin of the lining, all of which comprise the flange, are adhesively molded together, discontinuing the application of heat and pressure to the upper, and then cooling the shoe while applying additional pressure to the flange.

That improvement in methods of manufacturing stitch-down shoes which comprises assembling the upper, including a box toe, on a last, smoothing the. toe portion of the upper over the toe portion of the last, securing in place the smoothed out ortion of the upper, forming an outwardly extending lateral flange out of the surplus upper material that projects beyond the last bottom, applying heat and pressure to the line of break between the portion of the upper covering the toe of the last and the flange, whereby the box toe is broken down along that line, and cooling the shoe while continuing to apply pressure to the line of break, whereby the cooled shoe is provided with a rigid rib marking the line of break between the toe and the flange.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing I hereunto aiiix my signature.

IVILLIAM KAUT.

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