[go: up one dir, main page]

US1729169A - Manufacture of shoes - Google Patents

Manufacture of shoes Download PDF

Info

Publication number
US1729169A
US1729169A US34838A US3483825A US1729169A US 1729169 A US1729169 A US 1729169A US 34838 A US34838 A US 34838A US 3483825 A US3483825 A US 3483825A US 1729169 A US1729169 A US 1729169A
Authority
US
United States
Prior art keywords
paper
pegs
shoe
heel
fastenings
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US34838A
Inventor
Chapelle Fred N La
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
United Shoe Machinery Corp
Original Assignee
United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by United Shoe Machinery Corp filed Critical United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority to US34838A priority Critical patent/US1729169A/en
Priority to CH120241D priority patent/CH120241A/en
Priority to FR616685D priority patent/FR616685A/en
Priority to BE334479D priority patent/BE334479A/fr
Priority to GB13917/26A priority patent/GB253117A/en
Priority to US222360A priority patent/US1757200A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US1729169A publication Critical patent/US1729169A/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

Links

Images

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/04Welted footwear
    • A43B9/06Welted footwear stitched or nailed through
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43DMACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D15/00Pulling-over or lasting machines for binding the toe end with cord, string, or wire; Machines for lasting with clamps; Lasting machines with sewing devices, also for platform shoes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43DMACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D69/00Shoe-nailing machines
    • A43D69/005Shoe-nailing machines using nails being made from alternative materials, e.g. leather

Definitions

  • This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes and particularly to the fastening together of shoe parts.
  • Tacks, nails and other forms of metallic fastenings have long been commonly used for securing together various parts, both temporarily and permanently, in the manufacture of shoes. While there have beenv a number of objections and disadvantages arising from the use of such-metallic fastenings, these fastenings have been so easy to insert and so generally convenientthatit is probably safe to say that, aside from moccasins and the various types of rubber footwear, shoes have never been made on any considerable scale by any of tlre. usual presv ent day methods Without extensive use of metallic fastenings.
  • the number of needles give it the strength it should have, it must be continuous from end to end.
  • the metallic slugs commonlyinserted in the top lifts of leather heels and the metallic tacks and nails used to secure the top lifts to wood h els are other examples of metallic fastening which are not entirely satisfactory. These tacks, nails and slugs perform a neeessar parts of/ the heels, and, in the case of slugs, also produce an ornamental effect which is not without value as a selling point. Also, they serve to an extent as a reinforcement. On the other hand the use of such fastenings results inthe consumption of an excessive amount of sand paper during the top lift scouring operation, and, when shoes having such heels are worn, results in a great deal of damage to highly-finished floors.
  • the shoe upper is strained to shape it over the last and to position it'in lasted relation to the insole, and is secured in that relation to the insole by inserting paper pegs through the upper into ⁇ the insole, and heading said pegs so as to prevent the comparatively thin upper stock from pulling Off over the ends of the fastenings.
  • This may be done, for example, by using fastenings a little longer than the depth of the holes in the stock into which they are inserted. so ⁇ that their enteringends reach the b0ttoms.
  • the paper twine may be impregnated with sizing material such as glue. This is commonly done in the manufacture of paper twine by passing the aper strip prior to its twisting lthrough a Bath of sizing material or'over a roll which passes through such abath.
  • sizing material such as glue.
  • the paper pegs will be improved for many purposes if the sized twine from which they are eut is given a supplemental coating of sizing material after it has been twisted and dried. This supplemental surface coating of sizing under certain conditions increases the ⁇ holdingpower of the fastenings.
  • the supplemental coating may advantageously be of water-soluble glue lin which case some of the glue will be dissolved and will tend to cement the fastenings into place. If thefastenings are to be driven into dry stock they may be moistened immediately before being driven with the same advantage.
  • a surface coating of a more than ordlnarlly water resistant glue o r sizing may be used, for example a Water-resisting casein glue, animal glue to which j dchyde or a dichroinate, or sliellac.
  • a surface coating of a more than ordlnarlly water resistant glue o r sizing may be used, for example a Water-resisting casein glue, animal glue to which j dchyde or a dichroinate, or sliellac.
  • the invention provides fastenings, such as pegs, of felted fibrous material, for example paper, preferably sized with stilfening material such as glue; a novel method of manufacturing shoes characterized by the securing together of shoe parts by the insertion of separate fastenings of such fibrous ma@- manufacture,
  • shoes as articles of having various parts secured together by such fastenings.
  • the upper nia be secured in pulled over and lasted position relatively to the insoles by these fibre fastenings;
  • ⁇ tlie heel-seat portions of the outsoles may be secured tothe insoles and uppers by such fasteningsQthe fibre fastenings serving in the place of heel-seat nails;
  • the outsoles may be fastened to the in-l soles and shoe uppers in the same way, the
  • fibre fastening either co-operating with. stitching to hold the outsole membersin place, or serving as the entire sole fastening means.
  • the invention contemplates, as articles of manufacture, various of the elements entering into shoes each having its parts secured together by driven fastenhereinafter as a matter'of convenience of felted fibrous mateiial.
  • a wood heel having a leather, rubber or composition top lift secured thereto by felted fibre fastenings driven through the top lift into'tlie Wood heel. This may be done without the prior attachment of the top lift to the wood heel and results in a heel the tread surface of which is entirely free from metal and which will not injure the most highly-finished floor. Moreover, the life of the sandpaper used to scour top lifts attached or slugged'with these fibre fastenyings is markedlylgreater than it is if the lifts are attached with metallic fastentop and the cost of scouring is correspondings, ingly has been added alittle forinaL,
  • Fig. l is a sectional view on an enlarged scale showing a portion of a wood heel having a leather top li lt secured thereto by a paper peg;
  • Fig. 2 is a sectional View, also u-pon an enlarged scale
  • Fig. Sillustrates a shoe upper secured .
  • Figs. 4 and 5 are cross-sectional views on an enlarged scale of a port-ion'of a McKay and a Goodyear welt shoe having the upper secured in lasted relation to the insole by paper pegs;
  • Fig. 7 is a view of the heel portion of a shoe partly together by paper pegs
  • Fig. 8 illustrates a shoe after the perforni- .ance of the heel-seatl fitting operation
  • Fig. 9 illustrates the stitching of an outsole illustrates a stitchdown shoe having broken away and partly in sec-V tion showing certain parts thereof secured to the otheriparts of a McKay shoe the outsole having been secured in place by paper pegs during the sole laying operation;
  • Fig. 10 illustrates the attachment of randing to a heel by paper pegs
  • Fig. 11 illustrates a wood heel having a top lift secured thereto byl a row of paper pegs
  • Figs. 12 and 13 illustrate the attachment of rubber yheel sections to leather or fibre bases by paper pegs
  • Fig. 14 illustrates a shoe with a half-sole attached thereto by paper pegs
  • Fig. 15 is a front elevation of a head of a fastening inserting machine arranged to insert paper pegs;
  • Figs. 16 and 17 illustrate the securing of an outsole to other shoe part-s, as in McKay sole laying, by paper pegs. showing also the driver and nozzle of the machine of Fig. 15 and parts co-operating therewith, on a larger scale than Fig. 15;
  • Fig. 1S illustrates part of a fasteninginserting machine arranged to head paper fastenings as they are inserted:
  • Fig. 19 is a view on a larger seale than Fig. 18 of a part of the work support, the insole and the driver of the machine of Fig. 18, illustrated as fastening4 the upper to the insole during the lasting of a stitehdown shoe;
  • Fig. 20 is an enlarged view ofl a paper peg having its entering end of a lishtail formation so las to facilitate the elenching thereof;
  • Fig. 21 is a cross-sectional View through the nozzle and cleuching cavity of the machine of Fig. 18 on a still larger scale than Fig. 19 and illustrating the heading of a paper-peg;
  • Fig. 22 illustrates the insertion of paper pegs by a fastening inserting machine having a separate awl and driver.
  • Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate, on a much en lai-ged scale, pegs of felted lfibrous material formel1- ⁇ in accordance with the present invention and inserted in shoe parts which are thereby secured together.
  • Fig. 1 shows a paper pcg 30 of cylindrical formv inserted through a leather top lift 32 into a wood hee-l 34. a suitable hole having been punched through the top lift 32 and into the wood heel 34' for the reception of peg 30. It may be noted that under these circumstances, when the peg is driven into comparatively hard material such as the hard leather top lift 32 and the wooden heel member 34, the paper peg retains substantially its original shape.
  • FIG. 2 shows a paper peg 3G driven through upper leather 38, into an insole 4.0 to hold the upper in lasted relation to the insole, the peg 86 beong headed or clenched on the upper leatherat 37 and on the insole at 39. This may be done by mechanism which is hereinafter described. It may be noted, however, at this time, that a peg which is to be headed er clenched is cut of a length somewhat greater than the depth to which it is to be inserted in the steek so that there Will be suiicient peg material to be upset to form the head or heads.
  • the ',lhe driver stroke is regulated so that the distance between the lowest position of the peg engaging end of the driver and the bottom of the hole into which the peg is driven or the abutment or anvil against which the. peg is driven is less than the length of the peg lUnder these conditions thevpeg isl headed at one or both ends. the case may be.
  • the peg In heading a paper peg upon upper leather or other relatively sett steek the peg will be upset through a substantial portion of its length as indicated at 4t2 in Fig. 2.
  • pegs still stiffer and moreover may be utilized as a vehicle for cementing the pegs into the stock in which they are inserted, as is more fully hereinafter explained.
  • other iibres than the cellulose or ligne-cellulose of which paper is ordinarily made may be incorporated in the fastening material.
  • Fig. 3 illustrates the toe portion of al last 50 and an insole 52, with a shoe upper 5ft secured in pulled-over relation to the last and insole by a plurality of paper pegs a6. These fastenings 56 are driven into the insole but of course do not enter the last, the holes punched for their reception extending very nearly but not necessarily quite through the. insole.
  • fastenings 56 may be headedas indicated at 57 so as more securely to hold the shoe upper in place, they are cut long enough so that the entering end of each fastening reaches the bottom of an incident to its insertion before the 'upper end of the fastening and the fastening en gaging end of the driver reach the surface of the shoe upper, and the stroke of the driver is continued to upset and head the endA of the fastening upon'the shoe upper after it reaches that position.
  • Fig. 4 is ⁇ shoWn a cross-section of a portion of a last with a McKay shoe lasted thereon.
  • rlhe shoe upper 62 and the lining 64 4 aresecured to the insole 66 by paper pegs 68, the illustrated peg being headed upon the upper 62 in the manner shown at the upper end of peg 36 in Fig. 2 to prevent the upper from pulling off the perf.
  • the size of the head formed asv described in connection With Fig. 2 may be varied .by suitable variation in the length to Which the peg is cut.
  • Fig? 5 illustrates a cross-section through a part of a last 70, la Goodyear Welt insole 72 and shoe upper and lining 74'secured in lasted 'relation'thereto by a series of paper p egs passing through the shoe upperl and .lining intothe rib 76 of the insole. (')ne of these paper pegs is illustrated at 78 and is headed at both ends, as hereinbefore described.
  • FIGs. 6 and 21 illustrate stitchdown shoe 80 having the margin 82 of its upper secured in lastedrelation to its insole '84 by paper pegs 86 inserted through the margin of the upper into the insole. -These pegs may advantageously be headed at both ends, as illussole is' stitched to theshoe upper and insolev trated pin Figs. 2 and 21.
  • Fig. 7 illustrates the heel portion of a shoe 90having the margin 92 of its upper secured in lasted relation to its insole 94 by a series of paper pegs 96 headed upon the u per leather.
  • Fig. 8 illust-rates a shoe of the/I having its outsole 91 attached to its insole 93 by through-and-through stitching 95 and having its upper 97 held in lasted-.relation to its insole 93-by paper pegs 144, 147, extending throughthe upper into the insole andheaded upon the upper.
  • McKayv sole laying An operation in connection ⁇ With which these paper pegs are particularly useful is McKayv sole laying. After the lasting of a McKay seWed shoe, and preparatoryto the McKavsevving operation by which the outby through-and-through stitching, the outsole is commonly tacked to a lasted upper and insole by.a number of tacks driven in thev portion ofthe sole and'in the chan-n nel inwhich the McKay seam is afterwards to be seWed. These tacks are very trouble' some, since there is always danger of their being struck by the needle ofthe McKay stitcher,in which case the needle is likely to' be broken.
  • Fig.,9 is also illustrated the needle 110 of a McKay stitcher with a portion 112 of the McKay seam which has been inserted thereby. Needle, 110 is about to strike a fastening 114 as illustrated in dotted lines at 115. This is something which will frequently happen and by the present inventionis converted from an annoying accident to an unnoticed and harmless incident.
  • This figure moreover, illustrates the entire elimination of metallic fastenings from the ⁇ heel-seat 4portion ofa 1190 shoe and in that figure not only is the margin of the shoe upper held in lasted relationto the l insole by paper pegs 96 headed upon theshoe upper'and the outsole secured by paper pegs 120 extending about theheel-seat and also all thewvay around the sole and thereby servingr as the outsole attaching 1neans,.but the heel 122 is .attached by paper pegs 124 and is slugged with paper pegs 126. If, during-the heel-seat nailing operation, one of the paper pegs 96 vvhichserve as lasting tacks is struck,
  • the entering peg will not be deiected but Will continue in its intended 4path.
  • a heel-attaching peg 124 strikes one of the heel-seat nailing pegs 120 itl will not be deflected.
  • the heel portion of a shoe thus constructed is substantially lighter than that of a shoein which metallic fastenings are v i lused.
  • y l A I Paper pegs are particularly advantageous ⁇ for securing in' place the heel-seats of thc soles of shoes to which wood heels are'tol he attached, as shown in Fig. 8.
  • the iron nails or tacks heretofore used for this purpose often interfere with the heel-seat fitting operation, the knife or other trimming tool.
  • Figs. 10, 11, 12 and 13, as well as Fig. 7, illustrate a number of different types of heels having their parts secured together by paper pegs.
  • a-heel built up of a series of leather or leather-board lifts 150 is illustrated as in the process of having a piece of randing 152 attached by a roW of paper pegs 154.
  • the pegs are inserted by a d-river 156 .operating through the nozzle 158 orf-a fasteninginserting machine, the randing 152 being guided into attaching position by a rand guide 160.
  • the heel may be compressed as a unit,'and the paperfastenings will compress with the material of'the heel. 1f one of these paper fastenings is'str-uck by a heel-attaching nail the nail will continue in y its intended course without deflection.
  • Fig. 11 illustrates a heel having a body portion 170 of wood and a top lift 172 composed of a rubber or rubber composition portion 174 and a plywood'fastening retaining
  • the paper pegs are cut no element 176.
  • the paper pegs 177 extend through the top lift into the wood heel'and serve oth as ornamental slugs and as retaining means to secure the top lift to the heel.
  • FIG. 12 illustrates the attachment to a leather base 186 of a heel section or lift 180 rovided with a seriesl of washers 182 with tie usual conical openings 184 leading thereto.
  • This rubber section 180 is secured to the leather base 186' by a group of paper pegs 188 driven through the holes in some of the washers.
  • the nozzle"A 190 of a fastening-inserting machine is inserted in a conical opening 184 and a fastening is drivenV by a driver 192 against a suitable anvil or abutment194.
  • ig. 13 illustrates a heel having a rubber lift or section 200 provided with a nail-receiving element 202 of a suitable fabric, the rubber section beingsecured to a base 204 by a plurality of paper pegs 206. These pegs are driven beneath the surface of the rubber section 200. When the driver is withdrawn the rubber closes together over the fastenings thus inserted, the sections thus being blind nailed together. By cutting the paper pegs a little longer than the distance between the lowermost point reached by the driver and the anvil against which the fastenings are driven the fastenings may be somewhat upset and. headed in the rubber.
  • Fig. 14 illustrates a shoe having a halfsole 212 securedthereto by a row ofl paper pegs 214.
  • a whole sole may be attached in the saine manner, as described in connection with Fig. 7.
  • the sole-attaching paper pegs may be inserted in a channel as indicated in Fig. 17. These pegs may be relied upon to hold the sole member in place,
  • the paper pegs herein described may be inserted by fastening-inserting machines of various types.
  • a novel machine adapted for this purpose is illustrated in Figs. 15, 16 and 17 and will now be described.
  • 'lhis machine is provided with a reel 230 containing a supply of fastening material in the form of a strip or string 232 from which the indi- Cil vidual fastenings are cut.
  • a reel 230 containing a supply of fastening material in the form of a strip or string 232 from which the indi- Cil vidual fastenings are cut.
  • Slide block 238 is reciprocated by suitable mechanism to shear individual fastenings from the strip 232 and to transfer the sheared fastenings into alinement with a hole 240 in the guide member 235, the holcf 240 acting ,also as a driver guide for the driver 242 of the machine.
  • the driver 242 is oarried by a driver bar 244 (Fig. 15) provided with a liftingfblock 246 arranged in the path of n'iovement of a rotating cam 248, the
  • a spring 254 is provided to force the driver bar and driver downwardly when A the lifting block 246 escapes from the lifting member 250 or 252 of cam 248. During they first stroke of each cycle of operation of the machine ther drlver acts as an aWl and punches a hole 1n the material. Accordingly,
  • vthe full stroke ofthe driver is such as to project it beyond the nozzle 256 of the machine.
  • the driver operates to insert a fastening which has beenv severed from the strip 232 and moved into alincment with the openingl through nozzle 256 and for this purpose it is necessary that the stroke of the driver shall be shorter than its' punching stroke.
  • lifting block 246 is provided with an'adj ustable stop member 258, and a co-operati'ng stop 260 is arranged for movement into and out of operative relation thereto.
  • Stop 260 is carried by a lever fulcrun'ied at 262 to the head of the machinand provided with an arm 264 carrying a roll 266 held in operative relation to a cam 268 by a spring 270.
  • the form of cam 268 is such that during the iii-st stroke of the driver bar in each cycle of operation stop 2.60 is moved to the right, as viewed in Fig. l5, so that it is inell'ective, the driver bar continuing its downward motion until a block 272 carried by the driver bar contacts with a stop 280.
  • stop 260 is mired to the left beneath stop 258 so that the stroke of the -driver is short, and it moves only far enough to insert the'fastening in the work.
  • the illustrative'machine is provided with a reservoir ⁇ 284 from which liquid may pass through a tube 286 to a piece of felt or other suitable material 288 (Figs. 16 and 17) arranged to moisten the fastenings as they pass through the opening in the nozzle 256.
  • a reservoir ⁇ 284 from which liquid may pass through a tube 286 to a piece of felt or other suitable material 288 (Figs. 16 and 17) arranged to moisten the fastenings as they pass through the opening in the nozzle 256.
  • suitable material 288 Figs. 16 and 17
  • fastenmgs may be nioistened with Water
  • the block 308 is arranged for backward and forward movement so that the opening 310 is moved forward into alinement with driver 242 when the latter is serving as a punch or awl and rearward so as to bring a clenching cavity '312 into alinement with the driver when the latter is 0perated to insert a fastening.
  • the clenching surface 312 which'is formed on the upper end of a lremovable pin 313 clamped in a hole formed in block 308, is shaped to head a fastening having a fishtail point and for this purpose the upper surface of slide block 314 and the co-operating lower surface of guide member 315 are of an angular formation, as illustrated at 310, so as to sever pegs of the shape illustrated in Fig. 20. Pegs cut in this fashion' and of a length a little longer than the thickness of the work may be headed in the manner shown in Fig. 21.
  • Appropriate means -for moving block 308 back and forth between punching and fastening-inserting po-v sition is illustrated in Fig. 18.
  • ⁇ Block 308 is mounted in a slideway 318, a pin 320 carried lby block 308 co-operating with aslot 322 formed in the side of way 318 and limiting the backward and forward movement of block 30S.I
  • a spring 324 (Fig. 10) having a bearing at one end against a shoulder 320 formed in block 308 and at the other end against a pin 328 carried by Way 318 tends to move block 308 to its forward position with hole 310 in alinement with driver 242.
  • a bell .crank lever 330 fulcrumed at 332 to the frame of the machine has a depending arm bearing against a pin 334 carried by the rear of block 308 and moves the latter rearv wardly when rocked in a clockwise direction,
  • the rearwardly extending arm of bell crank lever 330 is connected to a vertically movable rod 336 having a sliding bearing 33,8 in the frame of the machine and carrying at its upper end a cam roll 340 located in the track of a cam 342 carried by the main drive shaft of the machine.
  • Cam 342 is of such a formation that block 308 is permitted to move forward to bring the opening 310 into alinement with driver 242 of the machine during the punching stroke of the latter, vthe chips punched from the workl being ejected through the hole 310, as shown in Fig. 19.
  • lVhile the insertion of paper pegs has been described herein as performed by a 1nachine having'a single'tool which acts both as an awl and a driver, it should be understood ldriver 404 operates through a driver guide 406 and a throatv 408 to insert the paper pegs, the various parts being operated in the manner usual in loose-nailing and slugging machines.
  • Patent of the United States is 1. A peg of felted fibrous material. ⁇ 2. A paper peg. 3. A twisted paper peg. 4. A peg composed of sized paper.
  • Fastening material comprising a strin of felted fibrous AmaterialI through and throughwith stifening mate- (Y impregnated i rial and coated with a supplemental layer of stiil'ening material.
  • Fastening material comprising twisted paper string impregnated through and through with stiifening material and 'coated withla supplemental layer of stiffening materia f 10. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes characterized by-securing together shoe parts in desired relation by driving paper pegslinto said parts. 4,11. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes characterized by ,severing paper pegs from a strip of paper fastening material and securing together shoe parts in desired relation by driving said paper pegs into said parts.
  • That improvement in methods of manufacturinglshoes characterized by forming registering oles in s hoe parts, severing paper pegs from a strip of paper fastening material, and securing together said shoe parts in desired relation by driving said paper pegs into said registering holes -in the shoe parts.
  • That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes characterized by securing to ether shoe parts in desired relation, by driving paper pegs intl said parKts, and heading said paper pegs at east at one end.
  • A' shoe having parts thereof secured together by paper pegs.
  • a shoe having parts thereof secured together by twistedv paper pegs sized with glue.
  • That improvement in methods of lasting shoes which comprises positioning an up er in 'lasted relation to an insole, and, while holdingthe upper'in that relatiom astening it to the insole by inserting paper pegs throughthe upper and into the insole and heading the pegs on the upper.
  • That improvement in methods of lasting shoes whichcomprises subjecting an uplast per to lasting strain to'shape it over a and to position it in lasted relation toan fastening it'to the insole by inserting paper pegs somewhat vless Ythan their entire length through the upper and into the insole and heading the projecting portions of 'l said pegs.
  • That improvement in methods of manto a ⁇ lasted shoe up ⁇ ulacturing shoes which comprises positionj ing an outsole relatively toa lasted shoe upper and insole in the relation which it is to bear in the finished curing the outsole to the insole by a row of twisted paper pegsand ⁇ thereafter stitching y the outsole to the insole and shoe upper with the line of stitching substantially coinciding with the row of paper pegs.
  • That improvement in'methodsoijman ufacturing shoes characterized by securing a channeled outsole to a lasted shoeA upper and plurality of paper pegs shoe, preliminarily semethods of manthrough the outsole in the channel into the upper and insole, and thereafter; additionally securing together the insole the upper and* line of stitching also located in the ⁇ channel. l,
  • a shoe having an outsole securedto an insole by a plurality of pegs of felted fibrous y an insole by a plurality of twisted paper pegs impregnated with water-resisting sizing.
  • Aheel unit having a vpluralityof secpegs locatedY in the channel and extending through t-he outsole into the insole, and additionally secured by a linel of stitching also 44.
  • a shoe l having the heel-scat portion of its outsole secured to its upper by fastenings composed of felted fibrousmaterial.
  • a shoe having aheel secured thereto by a plurality ofl-paper pegs.
  • That improvement in methods of assembling heels characterized by securing a rubber heel section to a heel baseby driving paper pegs through the rubber heel section into the basef 4 J 48.
  • That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes characterized. by securing together a cushioning section and a base y inserting pegsof fel'ted fibrous material through holes in, the cushioning section through which .the heel-attaching nails are later to be driven.
  • That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes characterized by securing together a rubber heel section and a base by inserting paper lpegs through holes in the rubber heel section into the base"and ⁇ tlie1'eafter securing the heel to a shoe by insertl ing heel-attaching nails through said holes.
  • That-1 improvement in methods of manufacturin shoes Which comprises iocating ase section and a cushioning section 1n the relative posltlons Whlch ⁇ they ⁇ are to occupy in the nished shoe,l
  • a heel unit made up of a plurality of parts secured together by fastenings of felted fiber impregnated with sitesmngmaterial.
  • a heel having a top section secured thereto by a series of apor pegs ⁇ impregnate-d with Water-resis'tmg sizing.
  • v 43. A shoe having a channeled outsole se- 56.
  • a heel comprising a rubber section, a base, and a plurality of fastenings of felt'ed fibrous material securing the rubbersection to the base. ⁇ f
  • a heel comprising arubber section, a base, and a plurality ofc paper pegs securing the rubber section to the base.
  • a heel compri-sing a top lift andl a wooden' base :secured together by fastenings of felted fibrous material extending through the top lift into thebase.
  • a heel comprising a Wooden base section and atop lift secured thereto by a row ofpaper pegs extending through the top lift into the base.
  • a heel comprising a Woden Ibase section and a top Alitt secured thereto by a plurality of twisted' paper pegs impregnated the top-lift into the base.' V 1. 61. A heel comprising pli-Wooden base section anda rubber top l1ft .with a tasteningretaining element. at its attaching surface,
  • a heel comprising a base section and a rubber tread section fhaving a fastening-retaining element at its attaching' surface, the base and the tread seetionsbeingsecured to.-
  • tread section into the base
  • a heel comprising a Wooden base sec tion and a rubber top lift with al Wooden fastening-retaining element at its attaching surface, the' top lift and base section being secured together by a rovi7 of Ipaper pegsl extending through the top lift into the base.

Landscapes

  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Description

Sept. 24, 1929. F. N. LA CHAPELLE MANUFAGTURE OF SHOES s sheets-sneer 1 Filed June 4, 1925 Sept. 24, 1929. F, N, LA CHAPELLE 1,729,169
MANUFACTURE oF s'HoEs Filed June 4, 1925 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 @www f f Sept 24, 1929; F. N. LA CHAPELLE MANUFAGTRE oF sHoEs- 5 Sheets-Shet 3' Filed June 4 1925 Patented Sept, 24, 1929 UNITED STA TES P'ATENToFJFicE .r
FRED N. LACHAPELLE, or isnv'iaxmm, MASSACHUSETTS, vAssiduo?, TQUNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, JERSEY Application filed v.Tune 4,
This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes and particularly to the fastening together of shoe parts.
Tacks, nails and other forms of metallic fastenings have long been commonly used for securing together various parts, both temporarily and permanently, in the manufacture of shoes. While there have beenv a number of objections and disadvantages arising from the use of such-metallic fastenings, these fastenings have been so easy to insert and so generally convenientthatit is probably safe to say that, aside from moccasins and the various types of rubber footwear, shoes have never been made on any considerable scale by any of tlre. usual presv ent day methods Without extensive use of metallic fastenings. On the other hand, the various disadvantages arising from the use of metallic fastenings are such lthat their elimination or even a reduction in the num ber of 'such fastenings used, Without the 'introduction at the same time of correspond-v ing disadvantages, is eminently desirable.
Among the more serious disadvantages arising from the use of metallic fastenings inthe manufacture of shoes are the interfer. ence with the performance of subsequent operations by fastenings insert-ed in'connec'- tion with earlier operations, the added weight of the shoe Where any considerablenumber of metallic fastenings are used, the liability of the points of metallic fastenings to injure the stockings or the feet of the wearer, the damage'done to highly finished floor by nails and slugs, particularly those inserted in heels, and the rustingof the fastenings when of iron, as most of them are. An illustration of a serious difficulty in the manufacture of shoes arising out of the interference with the performance of a subsequent operation by previously inserted fastenings is the breakage of needles in Mc- Kay sewing machines used to stitch the outsoles to McKay shoes and the breaking of the thread in the same machines. In the solc-layingoperation in the manufacture of McKay sewcd shoes a number of metallic fastenings are ordinarily driventhrough the outsole into the insole, these fastenings ibc- NEW MANUFACTURE '0E SHOES 1925. -`Seriali Nb. $4,838.
ing located in the channel in Which the outsole attaching seam is later to be made So that they will not be-visible in the completed shoe ,after the channel flap has been closed., There can be no assurance in the stitching of any 'given shoe that the needle of the stitching machine will not be broken by striking a tack or' `that the'thread Will' 4not ,be cut or injured in the'same manner.
As a matterof fact, the number of needles" give it the strength it should have, it must be continuous from end to end. y
Similarly', in the stitching of the outsoles eov :to McKay shoes, lasting'tacks placedv too` near the edge of the insoles are often hit by the needle of the McKay seWin-g machine.
This occurs particularly if the shoe uppersv are cut too short or if they are not pulled up` properly in the lasting operation. Under. normal conditions there is from one-sixteenth to oneheighth of an inch, lmore or less, of leeway between the row of lasting tacks and the outsole-attaching seam in a McKay seWed shoe, but if the laster is atall careless, he is likely to get some of the last! ing tacks out AWhere they will be hit bythe needle of the stitc 1er.
Disadvantages arising from the use of metallic fastenings in shoes are also particularly apparent from a consideration of the manner 4in which the heel-seat portions of shoes have been secured together. In the heel-scat portion of a shoeas heretofore-made are commonly found heel-attaching nails used to attach 'the heel to the shoefheelseat nails used to secure the outsole to tli'e'] insole and upper, and lasting tacksjholding the up- Cil per in lasted relation to the insole. It is not uncommon for a heel-seat nail to be deflected from its course during the heel-Seat nailing operation' and improperly clenched bystrikwise injuring the shoe. Again, the presence of metallic heel-seat nails in the heel-seat portions of the'soles of shoes often interferes with the heel-seat vfitting operation performed preparatory to the attachment of wood heels. This is particularly troublesome when the trimming is done b a machine, for if the trimming cutter str1kes a nail it is likely to be nicked if nothing worse happens. The elimination of these heel-seat nails is thus particularly desirable. Moreover, the large number of nails and tacks clenched on the inner surface of the heel-seat of the insole oftenbecomes a source of annoyance to the wearer, particularly if the heel pod becomesl displaced.
The metallic slugs commonlyinserted in the top lifts of leather heels and the metallic tacks and nails used to secure the top lifts to wood h els are other examples of metallic fastening which are not entirely satisfactory. These tacks, nails and slugs perform a neeessar parts of/ the heels, and, in the case of slugs, also produce an ornamental effect which is not without value as a selling point. Also, they serve to an extent as a reinforcement. On the other hand the use of such fastenings results inthe consumption of an excessive amount of sand paper during the top lift scouring operation, and, when shoes having such heels are worn, results in a great deal of damage to highly-finished floors.
In view ofthe foregoing and other disadvantages arising out of the use. of metallic fastenings, it is an obj eet of the present invention to provide fastenings for securing together shoe parts which will have the advantages of ease of insertion and general convenience commonly associated with the use of metallic fastenings at a cost lower than that of metallic fastenings and which will at the same time obviate the dilliculties and disadvantages inherent in the use of metallic fastenings in the manufacture of shoes. With this in view, theinvention -provides novel fastenings of felted fibrous material for use in securing shoe parts together. I have found thatpaper pegs such as those cut from twisted paper twine or string may be driven into shoe arts in much the same man- .ner as metallic astenings. Such fastenings constltute a 'surprisingly effective means for.
securing together various shoe parts. They .have a holding power comparable with that of metallic fastenings, greater in some in' stances, and will not damage a tool such as an awl, a needle ora trimming cuttcr,"or another and,'of course, are muchlighter than iron or brass nails or slugs. While these fastenings -can be inserted by hand, it is, from a shoe manufacturing point of view, desirable to in-l function in securing together the.
sert them by machinery and this it is entirely practicable to do.
When these felted libre or paper fastenings are used in the lasting operation, the shoe upper is strained to shape it over the last and to position it'in lasted relation to the insole, and is secured in that relation to the insole by inserting paper pegs through the upper into` the insole, and heading said pegs so as to prevent the comparatively thin upper stock from pulling Off over the ends of the fastenings. This may be done, for example, by using fastenings a little longer than the depth of the holes in the stock into which they are inserted. so` that their enteringends reach the b0ttoms. of the holes when the fastenings have been inserted somewhat less than their whole length into the work and regulating the driver stroke so that the projecting ends of the fastenings are upset and headed upon the shoe upper. In lasting some types of shoes it may he desirable to head both ends of these felted fibre fastenings and this also may be done, the entering ends of the fastenings being driven completely through the stock and headed against a suitable clenching surface. It should be noted here that the word lasting is used inconnection with the heading ot' these fastenings in a broad sense, to include also pulling over. While the heading of these felted libre fastenings is of special utility in connection with lasting, it should be understood that it isnot limited thereto but on the contrary may be utilized in other situations where there is danger of the stock pulling oft' over` the end of the fastenings.
In order to stiffen and lend body to the material of these fastenings, the paper twine may be impregnated with sizing material such as glue. This is commonly done in the manufacture of paper twine by passing the aper strip prior to its twisting lthrough a Bath of sizing material or'over a roll which passes through such abath. In addition, the paper pegs will be improved for many purposes if the sized twine from which they are eut is given a supplemental coating of sizing material after it has been twisted and dried. This supplemental surface coating of sizing under certain conditions increases the` holdingpower of the fastenings. If the stock into whichl such fastenings are driven is slightly moist', the supplemental coating may advantageously be of water-soluble glue lin which case some of the glue will be dissolved and will tend to cement the fastenings into place. If thefastenings are to be driven into dry stock they may be moistened immediately before being driven with the same advantage. On the other hand, where the fastenings are used in a situation where they are depended upon permanently to secure together shoe parts and where they may come into contact with moisture, a surface coating of a more than ordlnarlly water resistant glue o r sizing may be used, for example a Water-resisting casein glue, animal glue to which j dchyde or a dichroinate, or sliellac. When fastenings sized With shellac are used, it may be desirable to soften the shellac, for example if the fastenings are to be headed, and this may be done by the application of a gentle heat or a suitable solvent such as alcohol. u It may be noted here that when these fasteningsv are inserted by a machine running at a moderately high speed the heat generated by the action of the awl of the machine in piercing the stock and by the friction as the fastenings are inserted is sufficient to warm the material perceptibly. This/augments the cementing effect of the sizing, whether of glue or shellac, and accordingly increases theholding power of the fastenings.
In some of its different aspects, therefore, the invention provides fastenings, such as pegs, of felted fibrous material, for example paper, preferably sized with stilfening material such as glue; a novel method of manufacturing shoes characterized by the securing together of shoe parts by the insertion of separate fastenings of such fibrous ma@- manufacture,
terial; and shoes, as articles of having various parts secured together by such fastenings. In such shoes, for example, the upper nia be secured in pulled over and lasted position relatively to the insoles by these fibre fastenings;\tlie heel-seat portions of the outsoles may be secured tothe insoles and uppers by such fasteningsQthe fibre fastenings serving in the place of heel-seat nails;
and the outsoles may be fastened to the in-l soles and shoe uppers in the same way, the
fibre fastening either co-operating with. stitching to hold the outsole membersin place, or serving as the entire sole fastening means.
In other aspects the invention contemplates, as articles of manufacture, various of the elements entering into shoes each having its parts secured together by driven fastenhereinafter as a matter'of convenience of felted fibrous mateiial.
ings, spoken of as pegs,
,An example of such a shoe part, in connectionwith which the invention has important advantages, is a wood heel having a leather, rubber or composition top lift secured thereto by felted fibre fastenings driven through the top lift into'tlie Wood heel. This may be done without the prior attachment of the top lift to the wood heel and results in a heel the tread surface of which is entirely free from metal and which will not injure the most highly-finished floor. Moreover, the life of the sandpaper used to scour top lifts attached or slugged'with these fibre fastenyings is markedlylgreater than it is if the lifts are attached with metallic fastentop and the cost of scouring is correspondings, ingly has been added alittle forinaL,
decreased. Another such shoe part inl to heel bases, and the rubber section and' bases can be subsequentlynailed to shoes in a single opration without danger of deflection of or injury to the heel attaching nails. In fact, 'where special nail receiving openings are provided iii rubber heel sections for the heel attaching nails, the rubber sections can -be preliminarily secured to the basesby felted fbre'pegs driven through some of the very openings through which the heel attaching nails are subsequently driven.
While the invention is herein described in connection with the securing together of shoe parts, itshould be understood that in various aspects the invention 'is not so linii'ted but is applicable to the securing together of the parts of other objects.
With the above and other objects and features in view, the invention will now be described in connection with the accompanying drawings a'nd pointedout in the claims. The illustrated'inachines, however, are not claimed herein, since they forni thes'ubject` niatterof my co-pendiiig -application Serial No. 222,360 filed September 27, 1927.
In the drawings,
y Fig. l is a sectional view on an enlarged scale showing a portion of a wood heel having a leather top li lt secured thereto by a paper peg;
Fig. 2 is a sectional View, also u-pon an enlarged scale,
o'f two pieces of leather secured 'together by a paper pcg headed at both ends;
Fig. Sillustrates a shoe upper secured .in
pulled-over relationto a McKay insole by a y number of paper-pegs;
Figs. 4 and 5 are cross-sectional views on an enlarged scale of a port-ion'of a McKay and a Goodyear welt shoe having the upper secured in lasted relation to the insole by paper pegs;
Fig. 6 its upper secured in lasted relation to its insole by paper pegs; l
Fig. 7 is a view of the heel portion of a shoe partly together by paper pegs;
Fig. 8 illustrates a shoe after the perforni- .ance of the heel-seatl fitting operation, the
heel-seat portion of the outsole being secured to the insole by paper pegs; i
Fig. 9 illustrates the stitching of an outsole illustrates a stitchdown shoe having broken away and partly in sec-V tion showing certain parts thereof secured to the otheriparts of a McKay shoe the outsole having been secured in place by paper pegs during the sole laying operation;
Fig. 10 illustrates the attachment of randing to a heel by paper pegs;
Fig. 11 illustrates a wood heel having a top lift secured thereto byl a row of paper pegs;
Figs. 12 and 13 illustrate the attachment of rubber yheel sections to leather or fibre bases by paper pegs;
Fig. 14 illustrates a shoe with a half-sole attached thereto by paper pegs;
Fig. 15 is a front elevation of a head of a fastening inserting machine arranged to insert paper pegs;
Figs. 16 and 17 illustrate the securing of an outsole to other shoe part-s, as in McKay sole laying, by paper pegs. showing also the driver and nozzle of the machine of Fig. 15 and parts co-operating therewith, on a larger scale than Fig. 15;
Fig. 1S illustrates part of a fasteninginserting machine arranged to head paper fastenings as they are inserted:
Fig. 19 is a view on a larger seale than Fig. 18 of a part of the work support, the insole and the driver of the machine of Fig. 18, illustrated as fastening4 the upper to the insole during the lasting of a stitehdown shoe;
Fig. 20 is an enlarged view ofl a paper peg having its entering end of a lishtail formation so las to facilitate the elenching thereof;
Fig. 21 is a cross-sectional View through the nozzle and cleuching cavity of the machine of Fig. 18 on a still larger scale than Fig. 19 and illustrating the heading of a paper-peg; and
Fig. 22 illustrates the insertion of paper pegs by a fastening inserting machine having a separate awl and driver.
Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate, on a much en lai-ged scale, pegs of felted lfibrous material formel1-` in accordance with the present invention and inserted in shoe parts which are thereby secured together. Fig. 1 shows a paper pcg 30 of cylindrical formv inserted through a leather top lift 32 into a wood hee-l 34. a suitable hole having been punched through the top lift 32 and into the wood heel 34' for the reception of peg 30. It may be noted that under these circumstances, when the peg is driven into comparatively hard material such as the hard leather top lift 32 and the wooden heel member 34, the paper peg retains substantially its original shape. Fig. 2 shows a paper peg 3G driven through upper leather 38, into an insole 4.0 to hold the upper in lasted relation to the insole, the peg 86 beong headed or clenched on the upper leatherat 37 and on the insole at 39. This may be done by mechanism which is hereinafter described. It may be noted, however, at this time, that a peg which is to be headed er clenched is cut of a length somewhat greater than the depth to which it is to be inserted in the steek so that there Will be suiicient peg material to be upset to form the head or heads. ',lhe driver stroke is regulated so that the distance between the lowest position of the peg engaging end of the driver and the bottom of the hole into which the peg is driven or the abutment or anvil against which the. peg is driven is less than the length of the peg lUnder these conditions thevpeg isl headed at one or both ends. the case may be. In heading a paper peg upon upper leather or other relatively sett steek the peg will be upset through a substantial portion of its length as indicated at 4t2 in Fig. 2. Such an expansion of the. peg vis highly desirable in lasting, where the upper is relatively thin, or in any place where there is a strain upon the material in a direction tending to pull it oil the end of the pcg.
W'hile the material from which pegs 30 and 36 are made has been spoken of as paper twine or string, it should be understood that it is not essential that this material be made of pure paper pulp. Indeed such would not ordinarily be the case. In order to give rigidity to the pegs the paper vstrip from which the twine is twisted during its manufacture should be sized with an appropriate glue or other stii'ening material. Also, after the twisting of the sized paper strip to form the paper twine, itmay advantageously be passed through a bath of glue or other suitable sizing to deposit a supplementary surface coating of sizingI upon the twine. This makes the pegs still stiffer and moreover may be utilized as a vehicle for cementing the pegs into the stock in which they are inserted, as is more fully hereinafter explained. Moreover, other iibres than the cellulose or ligne-cellulose of which paper is ordinarily made may be incorporated in the fastening material.
Vith the foregoing by way of introduction the invention will new be described with reference to a number of differentillusvtrative applications to shoemaking, following through the different operations in approximately the order in which they are performed in the manufacture of shoes.
Fig. 3 illustrates the toe portion of al last 50 and an insole 52, with a shoe upper 5ft secured in pulled-over relation to the last and insole by a plurality of paper pegs a6. These fastenings 56 are driven into the insole but of course do not enter the last, the holes punched for their reception extending very nearly but not necessarily quite through the. insole. In order that the fastenings 56 may be headedas indicated at 57 so as more securely to hold the shoe upper in place, they are cut long enough so that the entering end of each fastening reaches the bottom of an incident to its insertion before the 'upper end of the fastening and the fastening en gaging end of the driver reach the surface of the shoe upper, and the stroke of the driver is continued to upset and head the endA of the fastening upon'the shoe upper after it reaches that position.
' Applications of the invention to lasting are shown in Figs. 4, 5, 6 and 7. In Fig. 4 is \shoWn a cross-section of a portion of a last with a McKay shoe lasted thereon. rlhe shoe upper 62 and the lining 64 4aresecured to the insole 66 by paper pegs 68, the illustrated peg being headed upon the upper 62 in the manner shown at the upper end of peg 36 in Fig. 2 to prevent the upper from pulling off the perf. In this connection it may be 1remarked that the size of the head formed asv described in connection With Fig. 2 may be varied .by suitable variation in the length to Which the peg is cut.
Fig? 5 illustrates a cross-section through a part of a last 70, la Goodyear Welt insole 72 and shoe upper and lining 74'secured in lasted 'relation'thereto by a series of paper p egs passing through the shoe upperl and .lining intothe rib 76 of the insole. (')ne of these paper pegs is illustrated at 78 and is headed at both ends, as hereinbefore described.
, Figs. 6 and 21 illustrate stitchdown shoe 80 having the margin 82 of its upper secured in lastedrelation to its insole '84 by paper pegs 86 inserted through the margin of the upper into the insole. -These pegs may advantageously be headed at both ends, as illussole is' stitched to theshoe upper and insolev trated pin Figs. 2 and 21. Fig. 7 illustrates the heel portion of a shoe 90having the margin 92 of its upper secured in lasted relation to its insole 94 by a series of paper pegs 96 headed upon the u per leather.
Fig. 8 illust-rates a shoe of the/I having its outsole 91 attached to its insole 93 by through-and-through stitching 95 and having its upper 97 held in lasted-.relation to its insole 93-by paper pegs 144, 147, extending throughthe upper into the insole andheaded upon the upper.
An operation in connection `With which these paper pegs are particularly useful is McKayv sole laying. After the lasting of a McKay seWed shoe, and preparatoryto the McKavsevving operation by which the outby through-and-through stitching, the outsole is commonly tacked to a lasted upper and insole by.a number of tacks driven in thev portion ofthe sole and'in the chan-n nel inwhich the McKay seam is afterwards to be seWed. These tacks are very trouble' some, since there is always danger of their being struck by the needle ofthe McKay stitcher,in which case the needle is likely to' be broken. Moreover, even when the needle does not strike a tack there is danger of the cKay type" thread-being damaged and weakened by a tack a ainst which it is pulled. The paper pegs o the present invention are Well adapt- :ed to use in this McKay sole laying operation shoe upper into the insole. In Fig.,9 is also illustrated the needle 110 of a McKay stitcher with a portion 112 of the McKay seam which has been inserted thereby. Needle, 110 is about to strike a fastening 114 as illustrated in dotted lines at 115. This is something which will frequently happen and by the present inventionis converted from an annoying accident to an unnoticed and harmless incident.
The utility of the supplemental coating or` sizing hereinbefore referred to as of assistance in cementing the vpaper vpegs into the i stock in Which they are inserted should be noted intconnection With the sole laying operation. "When the. paper pegs are`inserted the stock is slightly moist or in temper so that atleast a part of the surface coating of glue tends to dissolve and penetrate the leather, thus cementing the fastenings into the stock. Thus a smallnumber of pegs spaced Well apart are sufficient to hold the sole in place.
After the outsole has been attached to aj shoe, Whether Goodyear Welt or McKay, it is usualrto nail the heel-seat portion of the sole tothe shoe upper and insole. The use of paper pegs for this heelrseat nailing is illustrated at 120 in Fig. 7. This figure, moreover, illustrates the entire elimination of metallic fastenings from the `heel-seat 4portion ofa 1190 shoe and in that figure not only is the margin of the shoe upper held in lasted relationto the l insole by paper pegs 96 headed upon theshoe upper'and the outsole secured by paper pegs 120 extending about theheel-seat and also all thewvay around the sole and thereby servingr as the outsole attaching 1neans,.but the heel 122 is .attached by paper pegs 124 and is slugged with paper pegs 126. If, during-the heel-seat nailing operation, one of the paper pegs 96 vvhichserve as lasting tacks is struck,
the entering peg will not be deiected but Will continue in its intended 4path. -vSimilarly, if a heel-attaching peg 124 strikes one of the heel-seat nailing pegs 120 itl will not be deflected. Moreover, the heel portion of a shoe thus constructed is substantially lighter than that of a shoein which metallic fastenings are v i lused. y l A I Paper pegs are particularly advantageous` for securing in' place the heel-seats of thc soles of shoes to which wood heels are'tol he attached, as shown in Fig. 8. The iron nails or tacks heretofore used for this purpose often interfere with the heel-seat fitting operation, the knife or other trimming tool. used to remove the surplus stock from thc heel-seat portion of the sole often bein" inj ured by striking a tack. The possibility of such injury is eliminated by the use .of paper fastenings, as shown at 130 in Fig. 8, for if one of these paper fastenings is cut, as shown at 132, during the heel-seat fitting operation, no harm is done to the trimming tool. A somewhat similar condition exists in connection withv the trimming of the surplus upper stock from the toe portion after the lasting of shoes having pointed toes. The fullness of the upper under these conditions is pleated or otherwise hunched, being forced into this condition during the lasting operation. The metal tacks commonly used about the toes of McKay shoes interfere with the trimming off of this surplus stock. When paper pegs are used in place of lasting tacks, however, as illustrated at 144 in Fig. 8, this difficulty isovercome and `no harm will be done if the trimming tool used to remove the surplus stock hits one or several of the paper fastenings.
Figs. 10, 11, 12 and 13, as well as Fig. 7, illustrate a number of different types of heels having their parts secured together by paper pegs. Thus, in Fig. 10 a-heel built up of a series of leather or leather-board lifts 150 is illustrated as in the process of having a piece of randing 152 attached by a roW of paper pegs 154. As illustrated, the pegs are inserted by a d-river 156 .operating through the nozzle 158 orf-a fasteninginserting machine, the randing 152 being guided into attaching position by a rand guide 160. Afterthe attachment of the randing the heel may be compressed as a unit,'and the paperfastenings will compress with the material of'the heel. 1f one of these paper fastenings is'str-uck by a heel-attaching nail the nail will continue in y its intended course without deflection.
Fig. 11 illustrates a heel having a body portion 170 of wood and a top lift 172 composed of a rubber or rubber composition portion 174 and a plywood'fastening retaining For thispurpose the paper pegs are cut no element 176. The paper pegs 177 extend through the top lift into the wood heel'and serve oth as ornamental slugs and as retaining means to secure the top lift to the heel.
longer than the depth of the hole punched in the heel during the fastening insertion. Whilethese fastenings are shown as round in cross-section in Fig. 11, it should be understood that they may be of other shapes if desired. While a top lift having a plywodxiail receiving element is well adapted for attachment to wood heels by the paper pegs of the present invention, it should be noted that leather top lifts and top lifts of rubber or rubber composition without the plywood reinforcement may be attached in the same manner with entirely satisfactory results'. 1f desired, the paper twine from which the fastenings are cut may be colored either to match or to contrast with the color of the lift in which the fastenings are inserted.
Since rubber heels have come into extensive use their attachment to shoes as a shoe manufacturing operation (as distinguished fromA shoe`repairing)has presented a number of dif-- ficult problems. Ordinarily the bases upon which the rubber sections are supported have been attached to the shoes prior to the Vattachment of the rubber sections or else the bases and rubber sections have been coated with rubber cement and after the cement has become tacky they 'have been put together manually so that the two might be nailed on at a single operation. The present invention provides a convenient and inexpensive method adapted for use in the attachment of rubber heels which permits the nailing yof the bases and rubber sections to the shoes at a single operation without the use l qf cement. Thus Fig. 12 illustrates the attachment to a leather base 186 of a heel section or lift 180 rovided with a seriesl of washers 182 with tie usual conical openings 184 leading thereto. This rubber section 180 is secured to the leather base 186' by a group of paper pegs 188 driven through the holes in some of the washers. As illustrated, the nozzle"A 190 of a fastening-inserting machine is inserted in a conical opening 184 and a fastening is drivenV by a driver 192 against a suitable anvil or abutment194. When the heel thus assembled is nailed toa shoe the (heel-attaching nails are 4driven through the washers through which the paper pegs have previously been inserted,`v as well as through the other washers, the paper pegs beindisplace'd by the heel-attaching nails.
ig. 13 illustrates a heel having a rubber lift or section 200 provided with a nail-receiving element 202 of a suitable fabric, the rubber section beingsecured to a base 204 by a plurality of paper pegs 206. These pegs are driven beneath the surface of the rubber section 200. When the driver is withdrawn the rubber closes together over the fastenings thus inserted, the sections thus being blind nailed together. By cutting the paper pegs a little longer than the distance between the lowermost point reached by the driver and the anvil against which the fastenings are driven the fastenings may be somewhat upset and. headed in the rubber.
For convenience, the term rubber is used in this specification and the accompanying claims to designate a heel section or lift, but it should be understood that it is used in the sense which is customary. in the heel art,
resilient materials or compounds suitable for use iu the manufacture of cushion heels. l
Fig. 14 illustrates a shoe having a halfsole 212 securedthereto by a row ofl paper pegs 214. A whole sole may be attached in the saine manner, as described in connection with Fig. 7. If desired the sole-attaching paper pegsmay be inserted in a channel as indicated in Fig. 17. These pegs may be relied upon to hold the sole member in place,
Whether the latter is applied in the original manufacture of the shoe or as a shoe repairing job. Similarly these paper pegs may advantageously be used to secure in place the toe of the outsole of a McKay stitched shoe,
as shown in Fig. 9, in place of the nails or vstaples commonly used when the toe is too adverse conditions.
The paper pegs herein described may be inserted by fastening-inserting machines of various types. A novel machine adapted for this purpose is illustrated in Figs. 15, 16 and 17 and will now be described. 'lhis machine is provided with a reel 230 containing a supply of fastening material in the form of a strip or string 232 from which the indi- Cil vidual fastenings are cut. Forthis purpose,
as shown in Figs. 16 and 17, the strip 232v 'passes through a passage 234 formed in a guidemember 235 and 1s thus dlrected into an opening 236 formed in a slide block 238.
Slide block 238 is reciprocated by suitable mechanism to shear individual fastenings from the strip 232 and to transfer the sheared fastenings into alinement with a hole 240 in the guide member 235, the holcf 240 acting ,also as a driver guide for the driver 242 of the machine. The driver 242 is oarried by a driver bar 244 (Fig. 15) provided with a liftingfblock 246 arranged in the path of n'iovement of a rotating cam 248, the
ylatter having tvvo lifting elements 250 and 252 so that thepdriver bar and driver are lifted twice in each 'cycle of operation of the machine. A spring 254 is provided to force the driver bar and driver downwardly when A the lifting block 246 escapes from the lifting member 250 or 252 of cam 248. During they first stroke of each cycle of operation of the machine ther drlver acts as an aWl and punches a hole 1n the material. Accordingly,
vthe full stroke ofthe driver is such as to project it beyond the nozzle 256 of the machine. During the second stroke the driver operates to insert a fastening which has beenv severed from the strip 232 and moved into alincment with the openingl through nozzle 256 and for this purpose it is necessary that the stroke of the driver shall be shorter than its' punching stroke. lAccordingly, lifting block 246 is provided with an'adj ustable stop member 258, and a co-operati'ng stop 260 is arranged for movement into and out of operative relation thereto. Stop 260 is carried by a lever fulcrun'ied at 262 to the head of the machinand provided with an arm 264 carrying a roll 266 held in operative relation to a cam 268 by a spring 270. The form of cam 268 is such that during the iii-st stroke of the driver bar in each cycle of operation stop 2.60 is moved to the right, as viewed in Fig. l5, so that it is inell'ective, the driver bar continuing its downward motion until a block 272 carried by the driver bar contacts with a stop 280. Just prior to the commencement of the second stroke of the driver bar 244, however, stop 260 is mired to the left beneath stop 258 so that the stroke of the -driver is short, and it moves only far enough to insert the'fastening in the work.
.NIeans for operating the slide block 238 to sever fastenings from the strip and to transfer them to the driver passage 240, means for feeding the fastening strip, and means for operating 6am 248 may be provided in accordance with the usual practice inconnection with spring-drive fastening inserting machines of the type which sever fastenings from a wire, for example as disclosed in "United States Letters latent No. 910,147,
granted January 19, 1909, on an application filed in the name of Frederick H. Perry.
Since, in accordance With the present invention, it .may be desired to meisten ythe fastenings immediately before they are inserted, the illustrative'machine is provided with a reservoir`284 from which liquid may pass through a tube 286 to a piece of felt or other suitable material 288 (Figs. 16 and 17) arranged to moisten the fastenings as they pass through the opening in the nozzle 256. The nature of the liquid used for this purpose will depend upon the nature of the.
surface coating of the fastening material. It the fastening material 1s s1zed with glue the fastenmgs may be nioistened with Water,
While if sized-with shellac,l they may be block 308 provided with au opening 310 of a. size to receive the driver 242 of the machine. The block 308 is arranged for backward and forward movement so that the opening 310 is moved forward into alinement with driver 242 when the latter is serving as a punch or awl and rearward so as to bring a clenching cavity '312 into alinement with the driver when the latter is 0perated to insert a fastening. As illustrated, the clenching surface 312, which'is formed on the upper end of a lremovable pin 313 clamped in a hole formed in block 308, is shaped to head a fastening having a fishtail point and for this purpose the upper surface of slide block 314 and the co-operating lower surface of guide member 315 are of an angular formation, as illustrated at 310, so as to sever pegs of the shape illustrated in Fig. 20. Pegs cut in this fashion' and of a length a little longer than the thickness of the work may be headed in the manner shown in Fig. 21. Appropriate means -for moving block 308 back and forth between punching and fastening-inserting po-v sition is illustrated in Fig. 18. `Block 308 is mounted in a slideway 318, a pin 320 carried lby block 308 co-operating with aslot 322 formed in the side of way 318 and limiting the backward and forward movement of block 30S.I A spring 324 (Fig. 10) having a bearing at one end against a shoulder 320 formed in block 308 and at the other end against a pin 328 carried by Way 318 tends to move block 308 to its forward position with hole 310 in alinement with driver 242. A bell .crank lever 330 fulcrumed at 332 to the frame of the machine has a depending arm bearing against a pin 334 carried by the rear of block 308 and moves the latter rearv wardly when rocked in a clockwise direction,
as viewed in Fig. 18. The rearwardly extending arm of bell crank lever 330 is connected to a vertically movable rod 336 having a sliding bearing 33,8 in the frame of the machine and carrying at its upper end a cam roll 340 located in the track of a cam 342 carried by the main drive shaft of the machine. Cam 342 is of such a formation that block 308 is permitted to move forward to bring the opening 310 into alinement with driver 242 of the machine during the punching stroke of the latter, vthe chips punched from the workl being ejected through the hole 310, as shown in Fig. 19. After .the hole has been punched and the driver starts upward block 308 is moved rearwardly to bring clenching cavity-312 into alinement with the driver, as illustrated in Fig. 21, and when 'the fastening is driven it is headed as shown in that figure.
lVhile the insertion of paper pegs has been described herein as performed by a 1nachine having'a single'tool which acts both as an awl and a driver, it should be understood ldriver 404 operates through a driver guide 406 and a throatv 408 to insert the paper pegs, the various parts being operated in the manner usual in loose-nailing and slugging machines.
Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters.
Patent of the United States is 1. A peg of felted fibrous material.` 2. A paper peg. 3. A twisted paper peg. 4. A peg composed of sized paper.
5. A peg composed of twisted, sized paper.`
0. A peg composed of paper impregnated with glue. i
7. A paper peg impregnated with stiftening material and coated on the outside with a supplemental layer of stifening material.
8. Fastening material comprising a strin of felted fibrous AmaterialI through and throughwith stifening mate- (Y impregnated i rial and coated with a supplemental layer of stiil'ening material.
9. Fastening material comprising twisted paper string impregnated through and through with stiifening material and 'coated withla supplemental layer of stiffening materia f 10. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes characterized by-securing together shoe parts in desired relation by driving paper pegslinto said parts. 4,11. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes characterized by ,severing paper pegs from a strip of paper fastening material and securing together shoe parts in desired relation by driving said paper pegs into said parts.
12. That improvement in methods of manufacturinglshoes characterized by forming registering oles in s hoe parts, severing paper pegs from a strip of paper fastening material, and securing together said shoe parts in desired relation by driving said paper pegs into said registering holes -in the shoe parts.
13. An improved method of inserting fasJ tenings. of sized material characterized by softening the sizing at the surface of the fas-` tenings immediately prior to the insertion 'of the fastenings.
14. That improvement invmethods of se- 'I curing together shoe parts which comprises moistening adhesive-coated pegs of felted fibrous material and inserting the moistened pegs into holes forned in the shoe parts.
15. That imp ement in methods of man- 4the sole.
25. rThat improvement in methods of manuacturing shoes which comprises securing shoe parts together by paper fasteningsprovided with a coating of lue and softening the glue on each fastening immediately before that fastening is inserted.
16. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes characterized by securing to ether shoe parts in desired relation, by driving paper pegs intl said parKts, and heading said paper pegs at east at one end.
17. A shoel-iaving p rts thereof secured together by pegs orv felted librous material.
18. A' shoe having parts thereof secured together by paper pegs.
19.'A shoe having parts thereot` secured twisted paper pegs.-
o e having parts thereof secured each headed together by `twisted paper 'pegs7 at least at one end.
21. A shoe having parts thereof secured together by paper pegs impregnated with stiiiening material. l
22. A shoe having parts'thereof secured togetlr'by paper pegs impregnated with wateriresisting glue. I
. 23. A shoe having parts thereof secured together by twistedv paper pegs sized with glue.
24. That. improvement in methods omanu-acturing shoes which comprises securing of a shoe upper to a sole the marginal portion through the upper into by paper pegs driven uiacturing shoes which comprises securing the marginal portion of a/shoe upper to an driventhrou gh the upper u insole by'paper pegs into the insole.
26. rlliat improvement in methods of man" ufacturing shoes which comprises 'shaping a shoe upper over -a last and securing the upper to an insole on the last by paper pegs driven through the upperinto the insole.
27. That improvement in methods of lasting shoes which comprises positioning an up er in 'lasted relation to an insole, and, while holdingthe upper'in that relatiom astening it to the insole by inserting paper pegs throughthe upper and into the insole and heading the pegs on the upper.
28. That improvement in methods of lasting shoes whichcomprises subjecting an uplast per to lasting strain to'shape it over a and to position it in lasted relation toan fastening it'to the insole by inserting paper pegs somewhat vless Ythan their entire length through the upper and into the insole and heading the projecting portions of 'l said pegs.
projecting portions o said pegs. Y
29. curing together shoe through stitching,
.sole, and, while holding the upper under lasting strain,
' insole by driving a .the outsole by a lmateria 31. A shoe having its upper secured in lasted relation toits insole by paper pegs extending through the upper into the lnsole and headed upon the upper.
i 32. A shoe having itsfupper secured in lasted relation to its insole by paper pegs extending througli the upper and the insole and headed upon both the upper and the insole. 33. A shoe of the type in which the outsole is secured to the insole by vthrough-andhaving its upper secured to its insole by permanent lasting 'fastenings' comprising a row of paper pegs extending through the upper and the insole `farther from the edge of the insole than the outsole stitching.
34. A shoe having its upper secured to a sole bytwisted paper pegs.
35. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes .characterized by securing an outsole to an insole andla'sted shoe upper by driving`y paper egs through the outsole and the edge of the lasted upper into the insole. 1
'36. That improvement in methods of maiiufacturing shoes Which comprises 'position. ing an outsolerelatively per and insole in the relation which it is to bear in the `finished shoe, preliminarily securing the outsole to the insole by a plurality of paper pegs,'and thereafter additionally securing the outsole to the insole and shoe xpper 37. That improvement in methods of manto a` lasted shoe up` ulacturing shoes which comprises positionj ing an outsole relatively toa lasted shoe upper and insole in the relation which it is to bear in the finished curing the outsole to the insole by a row of twisted paper pegsand`thereafter stitching y the outsole to the insole and shoe upper with the line of stitching substantially coinciding with the row of paper pegs.
38.- That improvement in ufacturing shoes characterized by securinv a channeled outsole to a lasted shoe upper and insoleby driving a plurality of' paper pegs through the outsole in the channel into the upperand insole. d y
39; That improvement in'methodsoijman ufacturing shoes characterized by securing a channeled outsole to a lasted shoeA upper and plurality of paper pegs shoe, preliminarily semethods of manthrough the outsole in the channel into the upper and insole, and thereafter; additionally securing together the insole the upper and* line of stitching also located in the` channel. l,
40. A shoe having an outsole securedto an insole by a plurality of pegs of felted fibrous y an insole by a plurality of twisted paper pegs impregnated with water-resisting sizing.
,cured to an insole by a plurality of paper located in the channel.
to the shoe by a plurality7 -nails passing throught tion into the sole of the'shoe. l
51. Aheel unit having a vpluralityof secpegs locatedY in the channel and extending through t-he outsole into the insole, and additionally secured by a linel of stitching also 44. A shoe lhaving the heel-scat portion of its outsole secured to its upper by fastenings composed of felted fibrousmaterial.
45. A shoe having the heel-seat portion of its outsole secured to its insole and upper by a series of paper pegs.
46. A shoe having aheel secured thereto by a plurality ofl-paper pegs.
47. That improvement in methods of assembling heels characterized by securing a rubber heel section to a heel baseby driving paper pegs through the rubber heel section into the basef 4 J 48. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes characterized. by securing together a cushioning section and a base y inserting pegsof fel'ted fibrous material through holes in, the cushioning section through which .the heel-attaching nails are later to be driven.
49. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes characterized by securing together a rubber heel section and a base by inserting paper lpegs through holes in the rubber heel section into the base"and`tlie1'eafter securing the heel to a shoe by insertl ing heel-attaching nails through said holes. f50. That-1 improvement .in methods of manufacturin shoes Which comprises iocating ase section and a cushioning section 1n the relative posltlons Whlch `they` are to occupy in the nished shoe,l
driving a pluralityv of paper pegs-through some of the Washers of ythe cushioning section into the base section. to secure the,
two sections together, 1 locating 'the heel thus assembled in the position which it should occupy relatively to a shoe to which it is tobe attached,` and attaching the heel of vheel-attaching e Washers ofv the cushioning section, including the washers through which the paper pegs have beenpreviously inserted, and through the base sections secured to ether by fastenin'gs coml posed of felted fi lrous material.
52.A heel unit made up of a plurality of parts secured together by fastenings of felted fiber impregnated with stiemngmaterial.
Awith .water-resistingglue, inserted throughl v 4vtogether by a row of 54..A heel having a top section secured thereto by a plurality of paper pegs.
55.v A heel having a top section secured thereto by a series of apor pegs` impregnate-d with Water-resis'tmg sizing. v 43. A shoe having a channeled outsole se- 56. A heel comprising a rubber section, a base, and a plurality of fastenings of felt'ed fibrous material securing the rubbersection to the base.` f
" 57. A heel comprising arubber section, a base, and a plurality ofc paper pegs securing the rubber section to the base.`
58.y A heel compri-sing a top lift andl a wooden' base :secured together by fastenings of felted fibrous material extending through the top lift into thebase.
59. A heel comprising a Wooden base section and atop lift secured thereto by a row ofpaper pegs extending through the top lift into the base.
60. A heel comprising a Woden Ibase section and a top Alitt secured thereto by a plurality of twisted' paper pegs impregnated the top-lift into the base.' V 1. 61. A heel comprising pli-Wooden base section anda rubber top l1ft .with a tasteningretaining element. at its attaching surface,
said base section and to lift being secured astenings of .felted fibrous material extending through the top` v lift and' its reinforcing element into the base.-
62. A heel comprising a base section and a rubber tread section fhaving a fastening-retaining element at its attaching' surface, the base and the tread seetionsbeingsecured to.-
get her by paper pegs extendingfthroughl the.
tread section into the base.
y63. A heel comprising a Wooden base sec tion and a rubber top lift with al Wooden fastening-retaining element at its attaching surface, the' top lift and base section being secured together by a rovi7 of Ipaper pegsl extending through the top lift into the base.
64. A heel slugged vvlth pegs-of -felted fibrous material.v l
65. A heel s lugged with aper pegs.
` 66. A' heel slugged @Wit twisted paper pegs impregnated' with Water-resisting sizlng' c 67. Av top lift` slugged with paper pegs.
68..A heel unit' having a rand secured thereto by a plurality of aper pegs.
InV testimony whereof' have signed my name to this specification. i
FRED N. LA CHAPELLE.
A lari parts secured vtogether by paper pegs.
US34838A 1925-06-04 1925-06-04 Manufacture of shoes Expired - Lifetime US1729169A (en)

Priority Applications (6)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US34838A US1729169A (en) 1925-06-04 1925-06-04 Manufacture of shoes
CH120241D CH120241A (en) 1925-06-04 1926-05-25 Footwear and process for its manufacture.
FR616685D FR616685A (en) 1925-06-04 1926-05-26 Improvements in shoe making
BE334479D BE334479A (en) 1925-06-04 1926-05-28
GB13917/26A GB253117A (en) 1925-06-04 1926-06-02 Improvements in or relating to fastening or the like by means of non-metallic material
US222360A US1757200A (en) 1925-06-04 1927-09-27 Fastening-inserting machine

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US34838A US1729169A (en) 1925-06-04 1925-06-04 Manufacture of shoes

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US1729169A true US1729169A (en) 1929-09-24

Family

ID=21878921

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US34838A Expired - Lifetime US1729169A (en) 1925-06-04 1925-06-04 Manufacture of shoes

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US1729169A (en)
BE (1) BE334479A (en)
CH (1) CH120241A (en)
FR (1) FR616685A (en)
GB (1) GB253117A (en)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2454277A (en) * 1946-06-27 1948-11-23 United Shoe Machinery Corp Art of sewing
WO2022040795A1 (en) * 2020-08-25 2022-03-03 9772782 Canada Inc. Improved footwear

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US11289924B2 (en) 2019-08-09 2022-03-29 Techtronic Cordless Gp Battery pack including a high- and low-current discharge terminals

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2454277A (en) * 1946-06-27 1948-11-23 United Shoe Machinery Corp Art of sewing
WO2022040795A1 (en) * 2020-08-25 2022-03-03 9772782 Canada Inc. Improved footwear

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR616685A (en) 1927-02-05
BE334479A (en) 1926-06-30
GB253117A (en) 1927-09-02
CH120241A (en) 1927-05-16

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
US1729169A (en) Manufacture of shoes
US2261734A (en) Shoemaking
US2151020A (en) Shoe and method of making the same
US2380577A (en) Shoe
US2090065A (en) Insole
US2391789A (en) Shoemaking
US2521981A (en) Process of making shoes with molded counter portions
US3345663A (en) Process for making shoe having cross-linked rand insole
US2038672A (en) Attachment of rubber heels to shoes
US2034031A (en) Manufacture of shoes
US2183697A (en) Shoe
US1944805A (en) Welting
US1784940A (en) Art of making shoes
US2036406A (en) Method of making shoes
US2065569A (en) Shoe and shoe manufacture
US2573752A (en) Method of manufacturing welted shoes
US2073025A (en) Shoe bottom unit and method of making the same
US2063186A (en) Manufacture of shoes
US1377329A (en) Method of making shoes
US2018822A (en) Method of making shoes
US2033239A (en) Shoe and method of manufacturing shoes
US2004236A (en) Shoe and the manufacture thereof
US2232804A (en) Art of shoemaking
US2131375A (en) Manufacture of welted footwear
US2012325A (en) Manufacture of shoes