US1793516A - Method of and apparatus for making shoes - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 24, 1931. w. D. SHAFFER 1,793,516

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING SHOES Filed Nov: 15, 1928 2. Sheets-Sheet 1 Fig.1

1931- w. D. SHAFFER 1,793,516

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING SHOES Filed Nov. 15, 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Fig. 5

Patented Feb. 24, 1931 entree STATE PATET WALTER'D. SHAFFER, or cnzoeeo, ILLINGIS, ASSIGNGR TO UNITE snon MeoHinEnY conrone rzon, on rernnsolv, NEW JERSEY, a. coerce-Arron or nEw nnsnY ivrnrnozo or Ann arranarns FOB, I/IAKENG snons Application filed November 15,1328. Serial No. 319,590. I

1 This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes and more particularly to methods'of and apparatus for operating on the marginal portions of leather outsoles attached to shoes? 5 The invention is herein exemplified in relamake the production of a. thin edge especially Moreover, welt shoes of the grade'or type'in tion to a welt shoe. i c In womens shoes thin-edged soles are de-.

sired to give a light, dainty appearance.

Certain conditions encountered in welt shoes difficult. For example, the welt makes the I edge of the outsole appear to be thicker than it really is, and the magnitude of the problem 4 of producing thin edges is correspondingly I 15 great for that reason. Again, the outsole stitches in welt shoe necessarily lie in the marginal extension of the sole and so close to the finished edge-thereof that they restrict the ,range'of operation in any attempt to reduce .20 the thickness of the margin by cuttin'g'away some of the stock thereof.

Shoemaking requirements do not permit the removal of anyportion of the tread surface of the outsole, sincethe grain side of the -ztileather is always placed at the bottom and its integrity must be preserved to provide for a uniform bottom finish. Consequently, it is not permissible to produce a thin edge by beveling the grain surface of an an outsole.

which thin edgecl soles are especiallyjdesired are commonly provided with outsoles formed r s ,with stitch-receivin channels and with chanf nel'flap is an additional reason Why the grain nel flaps to cover the stitches and to preserve the grain surface in its .entiretyfor bottomfinishing. Thus, the preservation of a chan surface ofanoutsole may not be beveled to I produce a thin edge.

, of the outsole of some of its strength and establishes'the location ofthe bevel independj ently of the location'of the outsole stitches.

In view of the conditions above described,

1 obj ct efth present ie snt qh is t P vide an improved method of making Welt shoes according to which the margins of channeled outsoles may be advantageously reduced after the soles have been stitched to the Welts. As herein shown this methodma'y 'be practiced by separating the Welt from the margin of the outsoleoutside theline of stitches connecting them, trimming the mar gin of the outsole to reduce its thickness while the welt is separated therefrom and,-' preferably, bracing the" 1nargin of the yoiitsole against the trimming cutter while maintaining the separatlon specified. Thls method not only guards against cutting into the welt but provides for a firmer backing of the margin of the outsole than one in which the Welt itself is utilized. Consequently, uniform thinning of the margin be obtained, since thetrnnmi-ng is not affected by varia- 'tions in the thickness ofthe welt, or by welts of'differ'ent thickness or different degrees of softness. In the practice of the above-described method, a separating element inter posed betweenthe welt and outsole may be utilized to guardagainst cuttingthe outsole stitches and to lead the trimming out along a course parallel to the line of the stitches. Preferably, and as herein shown, the sole-reducing cut bevels the tread side of the margin of the sole to form a feather edge at the flesh side of the sole and reduces thewidth of the trimmed margin'so that the featheredge thus produced'will lie inside'the edge of the welt and be covered by the channel flapwhenthe flap is laid. Moreover, for reasonsthat will appear later, the invention. provides for concaving the beveled margin of the sole.

Another object of the invention isto pro- 5 vide improved apparatus for trimming themargin of the'sole of a welt' shoe, by the aid of which the procedure above described the invention consists in a machine comprising a trimming cutter formed and arranged to reduce the margin of an outsole be practiced. To this end a. feature of that is stitched to the welt of a shoe," an d. a c

thin shield formed and arranged to project between the welt and the margin of the'sole and thereby to prevent the triml'nmg cut fr m e h g the stitches. The. shield; may:

thus be used to guide the shoe so that the trimming cut will run parallel to the line of the outsole stitches and to brace the margin of the outsole against the cutter while maintaining the welt out of contact with the cutter; Preferably. and as illustrated, provision is also madetor maintaining the channel flap out of contact with the cutter.

Another result much desired in womens shoes is closed welt or rand creases in the shank portions. The shank portion of a last 7 is undercutalong both the inner side and the outer side, but more so along the inner side, this condition being due to a marked transverse convexity of the last. Therefore, to obta-in a closed crease, it is necessary to conform the outsole to the transverse convexity of the last. To some extent the leveling operation to which a shoe is commonly subjected after the outsole hasbeen stitched, imparts a transverse curvature to the outsole, but the degree of curvature required to close the creases along the shank is so great that the outsole springs back more or less toward itsoriginal shape when the leveling pressure is removed, with the result that the creases do, not remain closed. In some shoe factories the leveling operation is supplemented by blows of a hammer toclose the creases along the shank, but even this expedient does not cause the creases to remain closed. The conditions adverse to closed creases are worse in welt'shoes because the welt and the margins of the soles are connected bya bond or" adhesive applied prior to the sole-laying operaion, and the bond of adhesive prevents relative creeping of the welt and themargins of the outsole when the levelling pressure is applied. Thus, while boththe welt and the margins of the outsole be tiered hy the leveling pressure their inability to creep relatively one to the other supplements their tendency to remain flat and causes reop of the creases as soon as, or shortly leveling pressure is removed. r

' In viewof the conditionslast described, another object of the invention is to provide an improved method of making welt shoes according to which the outsoles may be conformed more closely than heretofore to the transverse convexity of the lasts in the shank portions, to the end that t 1e welt crease may be closed tightly and retained in that relation. In accordance with this object the invention provides a novel method which consists in rupturing the bond of adhesive I between the mar in of the welt and tie margin of the outsole, conforming both of these of the margins relatively one to the other,

margins to the transverse convexity of the" last and thereby causing relative creeping ahd reestablishing adhesion between the margins in their changed relation brought about by their relative creeping incidental to closing the welt crease, as by a sole leveling opingfaces of the welt and the outsole prior to i the sole-laying operation may be sui'hc-iently' sticky when the leveling operation is performed to cause subsequent adhesion of the two margins after the leveling operation, but it n0t,a freshcoat of adhesive may be applied to these surfaces before the leveling pressure is applied.

It has been stated herein that the invention provides for concaving tne margin of the outsole to produce a thin edge. A concave cut is desirable not only to insure the safety of the outsole stitches but also to provide sharply defined sh ulders on the trimmed margins to receive the leveling pressure and to transmit that pressure to the welt along thejline oi the outsole stitches, to the end that the welt will be pressed firmly against the upper adjacent to the inseam. Such shoulders, lying-as they do adjacent to the outsole stitehes, areinstrumental also in causing the described creeping of the welt and the margins of the outsole whena channeled outsole, and inclu'des'a portion" or" a tool in theact of separating the Welt from the margin of the outsole; I I

Fig. 2 is'a similar view of the sameshoe at a later stage, showing the result of beveling one margin of the outsole in accordance with this invention; i

Fig. 3is asectional view of the same shoe at a still later stage, showing the result of beveling both margins of the outsole and closing theweltcrease as by a leveling operation; y

. Figs. i and 5, the scale magnitude of which is twice that of Figs. 1, 2' and 3, are sectional views corresponding to the upper p01- tions of Figs. 2 and 3, respectively; Fig. 4

tiallyasshown in Fig. 3

Fig. 6' is across-sectional view of the shank portion of a channeled outsole of the type shown in th efother figures, the dotted lines represent-mg thesole margins before being trimmed;

Fig. 7 is a vertical trimming'machine comprising certain novel features by which it is adapted to bevel the margins of an" outsole with the result shown inFigs'. 2 and'G; y 7 Fig. 8, the scale magnitude 0t which is twice that ofFig. 7, is a-duplicate of the elements shown in the lower left part of Fig. 7 and Fig. 9 is a front elevation of a shield shown also in Fig. 7.' i i I The method herelnatterdescr'ibed' oii'trimsection of an improved mingthe margins of an outsole to vproduce thin edges may bepracticednOt only at' the shank portions of welt shoes but also around the foreparts, although present styles require 7 very thin edges at theshanks'only; The invention will, therefore, 7 be described more especially with regard to thinning the edges at the shanks, but 1t 1s to be understood that theappended claims directed to this-part,

of the invention are nottobe construed as limited to any locality. unless so limited in terms or bytheir context. f

For the purpose of describing the present invention, it is to be understood thatthe usual or any well-known procedure for maklngawelt shoe may be followed up to and including the step of stitching a channeledv outsole to the welt of a shoe. Fig.1 illustrates a welt shoe of well known construction, the zm'anufacture' of which has progressed to that stage at which the outsole is stitched to the .1 welt. The elements areas follows: a last 10,

Fig.1.1 form, conjointly, a thick edge which would be still thicker'if the channel flap V22 7 margin. 7

an'upper'l2 which may or may not include and a ma'r inQQ t, outsole stitches 26 forni- .-ing theoutseamby which the margin of the. outsole is connected to the welt ad aQent. to

the inseam, anda steel-shank stiffener 28. It is tobe observed that the-welt 16 and the outsole margin24; as shown at the bottom of were laid against it without reducing said According to commonipractice-in the man- ;ufac'ture of welt shoes the flesh surfacesof outsoles arevcoated with an adhesive prior to the sole-laying operation, zone purpose of the adhesive being .to'maintain the outsole in-the desired relation'to the'shoe until the outsole is connected to the welt by the stitches 26'; .Theadhesive thus applied extends to the edges of the out-sole and results in a bond between: themargin 24 and the welt 16. The adhesion of the welt to the margin' of the outsole insured by cooperative feeding members ofja; rough-rounding andchannel ingmachine by which those] elements ofthe outsole stitching operation has been performed, the welt and the margin 24 adhere one to the other so strongly that itis not'pos-q sible forjth'em to creep relatively one to the 5 herein exemplified, consists in rupturing the bond of adhesion between the welt and the margin 24. This step maybe performed by sented at 30 in Fig; 1. A toolof the type shown may be inserted manually between the welt and the margin 24 and drawn alongthe outseam, or, if desired, a power-operated 1113.

theiuse of any suitableinstrumentality such, forexample, as a. wedge-shaped tool repre-,

chine providedwith a wedge-shaped tool may he nsedfiv For example, in a machine for per forming this operation, the tool 30-may be vibrated edgewise while the shoe is held in the. hands of the operator withthe thin extremity, of the tool between'the elements to be sepa-,

rated. 1

Havingseparatedthe welt from the 0115-".

sole margin 24: wherever it is desired to reduce the thickness of said margin, the marl gin 24 is next beveled to a thin edge sothat the thin edge will beat thetop or flesh side;- of the sole, nonev of thegrain surface of the solerbein g removed. In many casesit is de: .c

sirable toreduce ithe width in additionto bevelingi-the margin 24 (see Fig. 6) so that 1 when the channel flap 22 is subsequently closed upon the beveled margin and'thereafter trimmed, together with the welt, by an 7 edge-trimming operation, it a will completely 1 cover and conceal the margin as shown in Figs. 3, 5*and 6. iIn Fig. .6, the margins of theaoutsole'prior to this beveling operation i el'e'd'isurfaces are indicated at 32. in perare indicated by dotted lines, while;the bevforming this bevelingiope ration it is pref-l erableffor reasons heremafter described, to

concave the beveled surfaceas-illustrated in Figs; 2,4 and 6; Moreover; it isdesirable to reduce the margin 24'without removing any stock from the welt'16.' Accordingly, the invention provides for maintaining the welt out of contact with the marginof the outsole while the' beveling operation-is being per.-

formed. LThcse results may be obtained by the use of thebevelingapparatus niuamtea in Figs. 7 and 8 to be hereinafterdescribed.

Having beveled the margin 24; of the outsole Iwherever thin edge is desired, the

flesh side of the channe1flap22,1the beveled surfaces 32, and the flesh side of the welt1'16' leveling operations heretofore practiced, but,

certain improved results are obtained fromsuch an operation in consequence ofruptun' ing the initial bond of adhesion between the p v This operation need not differ from'the-soleshoe are clamped with considerable pressure 1 soon afterthe adhesive has been applied and "before it has set Consequently, when the .1720

welt and the margin'Q i and in consequence I of concaving the beveled surface i32zofthe margin; l 1

'Commerclal sole-'levehn'g machines now commonly used are provided withrolls that travel back and forth on the tread surface I i of the outsolewhile the last on which the shoe is held is supported by a jack. A suitable leveling' machine is illustrated,- for example, in

United'States Letters Patent No. 1,004,155, granted September 26, 1911, on application of Andrew Eppler. A heavy pressure. is applied to the leveling roll" while thejack is rocked to distribute the. leveling pressure over the entire area of the shank and forepart of the shoe. This operation conforms the outsole and insole to the curvatures of the bottom of the last, and presses the channel flap 22 against the "beveled margin 2 1' and against the outer margin of the welt 16.

-As a result of trimming the margin 2 1 with v a concave bevel, as hereinbefore explained, a

sharply definedshoulder or edge 34 is formed 'on the margin. 'Thus, when the leveling pressure is applied to the shoulder as indicated, for example, by an arrow in Fig. 4, it is concentrated upon that portion of the welt through which the outseam -stitches'26 extend and cause, by their tension, a gaping Oneeifect of the concentration of pressure at this crease between the welt and. the upper.

' point is to close this'crease as shown in Figs.

8 and 5'. Since the welt and the marginof the outsole arenot adhesively connected at this. stage they may readily creep relatively one to the other in consequenceof being conformed by the leveling pressure to the trans- .verse curvature of the last, thus facllitating the closing of the crease. At the sametnne,

the leveling pressure is sufficient to transform the sharply defined shoulder 34 into a convex formation as shown in Fig. 5 Wlbll the result that the. channel flap, the beveled margin 2 1' and the welt are closely compacted.

The fresh adhesive applied to the channel flap, the beveled margin 24 and the welt immediately priort to the leveling operation maintains these elements in their compacted relation as shownin Fig. 5 after the leveling pressure is removed, and the changed relation of the welt and the outsole due to their relative creepingis also 7 maintained by ,"the adhesive. The finishing operations commonly performed subsequently to the leveling operation may be performed as 'hereto- Inbeveling the margins 24: it is, of course, v of primary importance to avoid cutting lnto the outsole stitches 26. At the same tune it is desirable to maintain the beveling out close .tothe stitches, particularly along theshank of the shoe where the marginal sole extension should be relatively narrow. To this end," and to facilitate beveling the margin as above explained, the present invention provides an improvedtrimming machine illustrated in.

Figs. 7:, 8 and 9.. The frameand general organization of the illustrated trimming ma--. chine are similar to the construction shown,

for example, in United States Letters Patent No. 1,235,709, granted August 7, 1917, on

application of O. K. MacDonald; r

In the illustrated trimming machine, a

-poWer-driven cutter shaft 36 is journaled in horizontal bearings one of which is abushing 38 ailixed in a frame 10. The forward end of the shaft 36 is provided with a fru'sto-conical extension 12 that carries an expansible split sleeve 4A of well-known construction. A toothed trimming cutter 46 ismounted on the sleeve. 44; and is secured thereto by a screw 418 and a washer 50, the shaft extension 12 being bored and tapped to receive thescrew. The cuttlng teeth of the cutter 46 are arranged to trim or bevel the bottom of the margin 24 of the outsole, and-they have a convex profile 52 to impart to the trimmed magin 24 the concave bevel 32hereinbefore described. 1

A stationary shield 54, arranged in front of the cutter, is reduced to a thin edge at its lower end to act as a wedging element and is formed and arranged to project between the sole margin- 24 and the welt 16,1

thereby bending the welt away from the sole margin so-that it may run on the outsole stitches 26. When the shield; is suitably adusted according to the size andstyle of'a given'cutter it not'only prevents the cut-Y ter from attacking the outso'le; stitches but also guides the course'of trimming by the crease between the welt and thesole margin and maintains'the bevel 32 at a uniform dis- Inaddition, the.

tance froin the stitches. shield by projecting between the sole margin 24 and the welt, prevents the cutter'from through which the screw extends. The abutment is arranged to engage the upper end of the shield 54 to supplement the holding effect of the clamping screw 58 against upward pressure against the shield. 4 The abutting surfaces of the shield and the abutment 62' are beveled to form a miterjoint 68wl1ereby their adjustments may be coordinated to maintain the lower end. of the shield at the desired level. Provision is also madefor' adjusting the shield i5 i in lines p'arallel to' the axis of the cutter, asmay be required to regulate the out. ,For; this purpose the bracket is provided with a slot70 to receive a clamping bolt 72 screwed into the frame 40. Preferab1ythe seat. formed on the frame for thebracket 56 is grooved to prevent angular movement of the bracket without depending entirely upon thefclamping effectof the bolt.

Dotted lines 74 in Fig. 7 represent. 7 one of two'parallel shoulders formed on the frame 40 to constrain the bracketagainst angular movement. Y I

- preferably mountedsothat it will not par take ofthe rotation of the cutter, but at the illustrated construction also provides for maintaining the channel flap 22out of contact with the cutter. fForthis purpose an? annular, bell mouthed back-guard 76' 1 (Fig. 7) 1s arranged behindbut in contiguous relation to the cutter. This back-guardls same time be capable of turning in consequence of frictional drag of the channel flap. Accordingly, the back-guard is'rotatably mounted on a stationary sleeve 7 8 that surrounds the cutter shaft and has telescopic connection with the bushing 38. A'set-screw 80 having threaded connection with the sup portlng sleeve 78 is arranged to engage the,

bushin 38' to maintain the sleeve in the dcsired position of adjustment, the sleeve being axially adjustable to place the backguard close to the cutter without quite touching it. An annular flange 82at the forward end of the sleeve (Fig. 8) supports the backguard in. concentric relation to the cutter, while a shoulder 84 extending radially from said flange provides an abutment to maintain the back-guard in contiguous relation to the cutter. The rim of the back-guard pro ects slightly beyond the teeth of the cutter to bend is customary to grasp the body of the shoe in r the left hand and to place the fingers of the right hand against the tread face of the out sole. This causes the fore finger of the right hand to lie adjacent to the upper edge of the sole. Accordingly, the right fore finger may conveniently be placed in the angle formed by the tread face of the outsole and the channel flap 22,'that finger thus being effective to press the channel flap against the rim of the back-guard which will have rolling contact therewith and turn relativelyto the sup-1 porting sleeve 7 8.

The bell-mouth formation of" the backguard 76 provides an annularchamber 86 to receive dust and chips from the cutter, and

the back-guard is preferably provided with a series of holes 88 to discharge the dust and chips. Moreover, the supporting sleeve 7 8 is also preferably provided with a series of holes 90 to discharge whatever dust or chips enter it from the chamber circumscribed by theback-guard.

Having thus described myinvention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by 'Let- 'ters Patentof the United States is:

1. Thatimprovement in methods of making welt shoes which consists in separatmgthe welt and the margin of the stitched outsole of a shoe outside the line of theouts ole stitches, and trimming said margin of-the outsole while the welt is separated therefrom.

I 2*. Thatimprovement in methods of making welt shoes which consists in separatingthe. welt and the margin of the stitched outsole;

of a shoe outside the line of the'outsole stitches, trimming said margin-of the outsole while the welt is separated-.therefrom,

and bracing said marginwhile itis being trimmed and while-the welt is separated therefrom.

' 3. That improvement inmethods of making welt shoes which consists in separating the welt and the margin of the stitched outsole of a'shoe outside the line of the outsole stitches, and beveling said marginof the outsolewhile the welt is separated therefrom.

I t. That improvement in methods of making welt shoes which consists in separating the welt'and the marginof the stitched tout-x "sole of a shoe outside the line of the outsole stitches, beveling said margin of the outsole while the welt is seoarated therefrom, and

bracing said margin while it is being beveled.

5. That nnprovement in methods of male ing welt shoes which consists in separating the welt and the margin of the stitched outsole of a shoe outside thejline of the outsole stitches, and trimming said margin of the outs'oleto form a feather edge'atthe flesh side of the outsole while thewelt is separated therefrom.

6. That improvement in methods of making welt shoes which consists in separatingthe welt and the margin of the stitched out sole of shoe outside the line of, the outsole stitches, trimming said marginof the outsole to form a feather edge atthe flesh side of the outsole while the welt is separated therefrom, and bracing said margin while it is belng trimmed as specified. s

7. That improvement inmethods of making welt shoes which consists in separating the welt and the margin of the stitched'outsole of a shoe outside the line of the outsole stitches, beveling the margin of the outsole with a concave cut to form a feather edge at the flesh side of the outsole while the'welt is separated therefrom, andbracing said margin, while it is being beveled as. specified.

8. That improvement in methodsof making welt shoes which consists in separating the Walt and the margin of the stitched outsole of a shoe outside the line ofthe outsole Y stitches, trimming said margin of the outsole,

and guiding thecourse of suchitrimming by i the crease between-the welt. and said mar gin.

sole of a shoe outside the line of the outsolestitches, trimming said margin of the outsole,

and guiding the course of such trimming by 9. That improvement in of malt- 5" 'ing welt shoes which consists inseparating tlie welt and the margin of the stitched outiii 1 the outsole stitches between the'welt and' said margin.

'10. That mg welt shoes whlch consists 1n wedging apart the welt and the stitched outsole of a shoe outside the lineoi the outsoleflstitches,

and trimming said marginot the outsole whlle and where a wedgingfelement 1s between said margin and the welt.

11'. That improvement in methods of inak- 7 ing welt shoes which consists in interposing a thin metal shield between the welt and the margin of the stitched outsole of a shoe outside the line of the outsole stitches, trimweltand said margin while and where such trimming takes place. i

13. That improvement in methods of making welt shoes which consists in separating the welt and the margin oi the stitched outsole of a welt shoe, beveling the bottom side of said margin, and simultaneously bracing the welt side of said margin and maintaining the welt out of contact therewith at the 10- cality where the beveling is performed.

14;. That improvement in methods of making welt shoes which consists in separating the welt and the margin ofthe stitched outsole of a welt shoe, beveling the bottom side of said margin, and controlling the depth of such beveling by the crease between the weltand said margim w 15. That improvement in methods of making welt shoes which consists in separating the welt and the margin of the stitched outsole of a welt shoe as far in as the stitches i that connect them, trimming one side of said margin with a beveling cut, and controlling the location of such cut by said stitches.

. ing the course 16. That improvement in methods of making welt shoes which consists in separating the welt and the margin of the stitched outsole of a welt shoe as far in as the stitches that connect them, trimming said margin while malntaimng thewelt out of contact there-- with at the trimming locality, and controllot suchtrimining by said stitches. l i

17. That improvement in methods of ma ing welt shoes which consists in separating the welt and the margin of the stitched outsole of a welt shoe as far in as the stitches that connect them, trimming the edge and one face, of said margin simultaneously to reduce the thickness and the width thereof, and

improvement in methods of makcontrolling the course of such said stitches. V r

18. That improvement in methods of making welt shoes which consists in separating the welt and themargin ofthe stitched outsole of a welt shoe as farincas the stitches that connect them, reducing the thickness and the width or said margin with a concave cut that forms a feather edge at the welt side of said-margin, and-controlling the progress of such cut by said stitches between the welt and said margin.

19. A trimming machine comprising a trimming cutter formed and arranged to reduce the width of the margin of a channeled outsole stitched to a welt shoe, and a nontrimming by driven shield formed and arranged to pro- 7 ject between the'welt and said margin and to run on the stitches connecting themand thereby prevent the trimming cut from reaching said stitches.

20. A trimming machine comprising cut tin means formed and arranged ,to reduce the thickness and the width of the margin of a channeled outsole stitched to a welt shoe, and a shield formedand arranged to run between the welt and said margin to brace the latter against said cutting means and to control. the course of the trimming cut.

21. A trimming machine comprising cutting means formed and arranged to trim the bottom of the margin of a channeled outsole stitched to a welt shoe, and a shield arranged to project between the welt and said margin to separate them andto brace said margin against the cutting means. i

22. A trimming machine comprising a trimming cutter formed and arranged to trim the'margin of an outsole attached to a welt shoe,-and a stationary member formed and arranged to run between the welt and said margin to control the course of the trimming cut. v

23. A trimming machine comprising a trimming cutter having a convex profile formed and arranged to cut a concave bevel on the margin of an outsole stitched to a welt-shoe, and means arranged to guide the shoe sothat said cutter will trim close to but not into the outsole stitches.

24. A trimming machine comprising cutting means formed and arranged to bevel the bottom side of the margin of an outsole stitched to a welt shoe and thereby form a feather edge at the welt side of the margin, and means arranged to maintain separation ofthe welt and said'marginadj acent to'the against said 1 cutting means.-

25. A trimming ,machine comprising .a trimming cutter having a convex profile cutting locality and to brace said margin formed and arrangedto reduce the width of the margin'of a; channeled outsole attached to a welt shoe by beveling said margin and forming a feather edge at the welt. side theretrimthe margin of a channeled outsole attached to awelt shoe, means arranged to run I of, and means arranged to run between the between the welt and said margin to brace the latter against the cutter and to separate the welt from the cutter, and means arranged to guide the channel-flap so that it will clear said cutter.

27. A trimming machine comprisin a trimming cutter formed and arranged to trim the margin of a channeled outsole attached to a shoe, means for operating said cutterymeans arranged in front of the cutter to brace said margin against the cutter, and means arranged behind the cutter to bend the channel-flap away from said cutter.

28. A trimming machine comprising a trimming cutter formed and arranged to trim the margin of channeled outsole attached to a shoe, means for operating said cutter, an annular guard arranged to maintain the channel-flap out of contact with said 7 cutter, and non-rotary means by which said guard is supported so that it may be turned .wby the frictional effect of the work thereon.

29. A trimming machine comprising a rotary trimming cutter formed and arranged to trim the margin of a channeled outsole attached to a shoe, means for driving said cutter, an annular back-guard contiguous to said cutter and arranged to fend the channelfiap from said cutter, and a stationary'sleeve by which said back-guard is supported.

30. A trimming machine comprising a rotary trimming cutter formed and arranged to trim the margin of a channeled outsole attached to a shoe, meansfor driving said cutter, a bell-mouthed back-guard arranged to fend the channel-flap from said cutter and formed to provide a chamber to receive dust and chips from said cutter, said back-guard having one or more outlets for the discharge of dust and chips.

31. That improvement in methods of male ing welt shoes which consists in rupturing a bond of adhesive connecting the welt'and the margin of the stitched outsole of a shoe on a last, and conforming the welt and the outsole to the transverse convexity of the last and thereby causing relative creeping of the welt and said margin to a relation other than the one in which they were formerly held by said bond of adhesive.

32. That improvement in methods of making welt shoes which consistsin rupturing a bond of adhesive connecting the welt and the margin of the stitched outsole of a shoe on a last, and leveling the sole and thereby causing relative creeping of said margin and the welt to avoid tensioning said margin.

, ing welt shoes which consists in 33. That improvement in methods of ing welt shoes which consists in rupturing a" bond of adhesive connecting the welt and the margin of the stitched outsole of a shoe on a last, bending said margin and the welt to-' ward the last and thereby causing relative creeping of said margin and the' welt. v

3%. That improvement in methods of malting welt shoes which consists in rupturing a bond of adhesive'connecting the welt and the margin of the stitched outsole of a shoe on a last, and thereafter closing the welt-crease and simultaneously causing relative creeping I of the welt and said margin by leveling the outsole.

351 That improvement in methods of making welt shoes which consists in rupturing a bond of adhesive connecting the welt and the margin of the stitched outsole of ashoe in which the outsole has a channel flap for covering the stitches, trimming said margin while said flap is open, coating the trimmed margin with an adhesive, closing said flap, leveling the outsole and thereby causing relative creeping of the welt and said margin to avoid tensioning the latter. 7 f

36. That improvement in methods of makjoining by an adhesive the welt and the margin of a channeled outsole of a shoe, raising a channel flap of the outsole to open the channel,

stitching the outsole to the Welt adjacent to I the inseam, rupturing the bond of adhesive between the outsole and the welt outside the outseam, .beveling the margin of the outsole I with a concave cut to form a thin edge at the top and a sharply defined shoulder at the bottom of said margin,closing the channel flap, leveling the outsole and thereby transforming said shoulder to a convex formation, closing the welt-crease and causing relative creeping of the welt and said margin of the outsole by the leveling pressure. p 37 That improvement in methods of making welt shoes which consists in rupturing a bond of adhesive connecting a shank portion of the welt and the margin of the stitched outsole of a shoe on a last, and reestablishing adhesion of the welt and said margin at said shank portion by bending the margin toward the body of the shoe with pressure sufficient to close the welt-crease and to cause relative creeping of the welt and said margin.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

1 WALTER D. SHAFFER.

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