US1695969A - Reverse welting and method of making - Google Patents

Description

Dea. 18, 1928 H. LYON REVERSE WELTING AND METHOD OF MAKING Filed Oct. 7, 1925 Patented Dec. 18, 1928.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.'

HARRY LYON, OF HOLBROOK, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO PERLEY E. BARBOUR,

- F QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS.

REVERSE WELTING AND METHOD OF MAKING.

Application filed October 7, 1925. Serial No. 61,065.

This invention relates to welting of that general type which is provided with a bead arranged to lie againstthe shoe upper in the crease between the upper and the sole, this head being formed, according to the present invention, by bending the inner edge portion of the welt strip upwardly, this construction being called for convenience reverse welting, in contra-distinction to the well known construction where the upper edge is bent downwardly to receive and be attached to the outer sole. As

this action exposes the inner, edge of the welt, provision is made acfording to this invention for so forming this portion of the strip when made of leather that it presents over the surface exposed when the welt is in use, grain surfacing material similar to that presented outwardly of the bead. F urthermore, the welt is so constructed that the stitch line at which the welt is fixed to the shoe forms a natural fold line so that the strip is fixed to the shoe in flat condition and when its outer edge is brought into a plane for attachment to the outer sole, this folding of the strip is effected.

For a more complete understanding of this invention reference may be had to the accompanying drawings in which Figure 1 is a cross section through the blank strip from which the welt is formed.

Figure 2 is a similar section showing the manner in which the blank strip is cut.

Figure 3 is a similar section showing por tions of the cut strip folded to final position, the strip being then ready for attachment to a shoe. Figure 4 is a fragmentary cross section through a shoe showing the welt in position therein. i

Referring to these drawings, the blank from which the welt is made is substantially rectangular in cross section, as shown at 1 in Figure 1. A portion of one edge of the strip is then cut away as shown at 2 in Figure 2, leaving a thin layer 3, from the grain face of the strip when leather is used, ex-

tending beyond the surface left by the cut away portion which. surface, however, is somewhat longer than the flap and terminates toward the opposite edge of the blank in a shoulder 1. Between this shoulder and the strip 3 an incision is made at 5 in the opposite face of the welt, and a portion of general segmental shape is cut therefrom,

defining a rounded groove 6 overwhich extends a flap 7. This flap is then pressed downwardly against the base of the groove 6, as shown in Figure 3, and is fixed thereto, so as to form a somewhat smaller longitudinally extending groove 8 in the upper face of the welt, surfaced entirely by grain stock. The flap 3 is then bent downwardly against the surface formed by the cut away portion 2 and may be cemented in position thereon as shown in Figure 3, the edge of the flap as at 9 terminating somewhat short of the shoulder 4, leaving a recessed portion 10 in the lower-face of the welt substantially opposite. to the groove 8, this recessed portion and the groove thus defining a thin portion of the stock through which the inseam stitches 12 pass when the welt is in position on the shoe as shown in Figure 4 and also defining a weakened fold line for the welt. The welt in flat condition is attached to the inner sole with the upper materials 21 and 22 interposed therebetween and lying in the recess 10 by the stitching 12 extending through'the apex of the fold angle, the finished edge portion 23 of the flat welt strip surfaced. by the flap 3 extending upwardly against the outer face of the upper materials at substantially right angles to the plane of the innersole.

After the welt has been stitched in position as just described its lower edge is bent outwardly, as shown in Figure 4, to form an outwardly directed flange portion 25 substantially in the plane of the inner-sole and to this flange portion the outer sole 26 is then attached by the out sole stitches 27. It will thus be seen that the longitudinally extending rib lying against the upper materials is formed by the inner edge of the welt strip upwardly turned, the welt being in flat condition when fed through thesewing. machine in' position to be attached by the inseam stitches to the innersole and upper material and that this head presents over its entire exposed portion represented by side and edge faces the grain surface of the stock where leather is used, vthis surface being a continuation of that presented by the upper face of the welt outwardly of the bead.

Having thus described an embodiment of his invention, it should be evident to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications might be made therein without departing from its spirit or scope as defined by the appended claims.

I claim: 1. A welt haying inner and outer marginal areas ofv unreduced thickness and a substantially central weakened longitudinal portion to receive attaching, stitches and at which it islaterally folded to present upwardly. and outwardly extending" edges when in position in a shoe.

2. A leather welt constructed to be folded laterally when in position in a shoe, the inner edge portion lying in the crease against the shoe upper, said inner edge portion presenting over its side and edge faces a grain 5. A leather reverse welt having a longitudinal stitch-receiving recess substantially centrally of its grain side defining also a fold line, and a grain covering layer'about its inner edge.

6. A leather reverse welt having a central longitudinal weakened area defininga fold line, said weakened area on the grain side forming a stitch-receiving groove, and a grain covering in said groove and about the inner ed e of the welt.

7. A shoe having a welt bent laterally to form an upstanding inner portion resting 1n the crease against the shoe upper and an outwardly extending outer portion to which the outer sole is attached, the inseam stitching of the shoe passing through said welt and lying within the angle formed by bending said inner and outer portions, said welt hav ing a stitch-receiving groove in its upper face at the apexof said angle. I

8. A shoe .having a welt bent laterally to form an upstanding inner portion resting in the crease against the shoe upper and an outwardly extending outer portion to which the inseam stitchthe outer sole is attached,- I ing of the shoe passing through said welt and lying within the angle formed by head ing said inner and outer portions, said welt having astich-receiving groove in its upper said groove,

face at the apex of' said angle, and "alsp being recessed on its inner side opposite to the adjacent upper materials lying in said recess. Q A

9. The method of forming a stitch-receiving groove. which comprises cutting inwardly from. one face of the stock and removing a strip of material from beneath said face through said out to leave a surface flap extending over a channel formed by the removal ofsaid strip from one side, and

v channel.

portion of by the adjacent then pressing said flap to the base of said 10. The method of forming a welt which comprises cutting away the stock from one edge portion of a blankstrip to leave a thin layer forming a continuation of the surface the-remainder of, said strip on one side and a depression on the opposite side, bending saidthin layer over said cutaway portion and into the depression whereby the adjacent edge of the strip is surfaced by said layer, and forming a stitch-receiving I groove on the opposite face of said strip.

11. The method of forming a welt which comprises cutting away the stock from one edge-portion ofa blank strip to leave a thin layer forming a continuation of the surface portion of the remainder of said strip on one side and a depression on the opposite side, bending said thin layer over said cut away portion and into the depression whereedge of the strip is surfaced by said layer, and forming a stitch-receiving groove on the opposite face of said strip, said surface layer being of such-length as to leave an unfilled portion of the depression substantially opposite to said groove, said groove and unfilled portion defining a fold line extending longitudinally of the welt.

12,.The method of making welt shoes which comprises forming a longitudinal groove in that face of a welt strip to be exposed in the.finished shoe, fixing said strip to an innersole and upper materials by an exposed line of stitching lying in said groove, bending up the lower edge portion of the welt along the groove into substantially the plane of the innersole, ing an outer sole-thereto.

13. The method of making welt shoes which comprises feeding and attaching a welt strip to the margin of an innersole and interposed upper material while held in a plane substantially perpendicular to the plane of said innersole, bending the lower portion of the welt outwardly into substantiallyv the plane of said innersole, and fixing the marginal portions of an outer sole thereto. I

14. A leather reversewelt characterized and attachl by a body having a thin layer extending from its inner edge on the grain side and adapted to be folded to lie against said inner edge of the body, and a stitch-receiving gr(pove substantially centrally of its grain s1 e.

15. A leather reverse welt characterized by a body having a longitudinal weakened area intermediate its edges to permit folding, and a grain surface covering its inner edgecomprlsing a portion of the grain side of the welt body.

In testimony whereof Ihave affixed my signature. J

. HARRY LYON.

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