US1692533A - Welting - Google Patents

Description

Patented Nov. 20, 1928.

umren STATE EDWARD W. ABNoLn,-, or-noarn .Anineroiv, messnonn'snrrs.

Application filed September {20, 192e, Serial ar 135,457

The invention to be hereinafter described relates to welt-ingfor use in the manufacture of shoes, and a method of making the welt ng The usual ,Welting consists of a leather strip having flesh and grain faces, and edges perpendicular to said faces, a groove or channel for the inseam stitching being formed in the flesh side of the body of the welting adj acent the inner edge thereof. The grain face is beveled at the'inner edge to increase the flexibility of the welting and in Order that the bevel and inner edge may fit snuglyi'n the anglehetween the ifeathr and lip at edge he, insole.

.Welting lsh'ould be 'made of high grade leather'having the toughness andstrength necessary to hold the inseam and outsam stitching. This leatheris expensive and therefore it is important that strict economy I should be practiced in the ain ountoif material used in making the welting. Even a slight saving in the widthof the leather strip used in inaking the welting is very important to the manufacturer who makes andsells many I thousand yards of welting perday- V The present invention provides simple, strong, eflicient welting which can be easily and cheaply manufactured with desirable econoniy of material. I

' The character ofthe'invention may be best understood by reference to the following description of the method of making one good form .of'the welting shown in the .accompa y in drawing,'wherein: i'g. 1 on an enlarged scale is a transverse section throughthe strip of leather from which thewelting is formed; a f 1 Fig. 2 is a transverse section through the strip showing the incision made through the flesh face of the body ofthe strip and inclined toward an edge of the strip; I

Fig.3 is a transverse section through the strip. showing the body-portion between the incision and the inner edge- 0f the strip pressed outward to final forin;

t Fig. 4 is an actual size tranfi erse section through welting made by the niet hod Fig. 5 is atra-nsyerse section throngh a portion of a shoe having a welt embodying" the invention; and a v i Fig. 6 is a transverse section through the shoeand showing the outer sole applied.

In the method 'ofinaking the welting a strip 1 1) of leather iSfO ITlTlQd by slitting the strip from stock so than the present instance .it is of substantially rectangular perpendicular to the flesh face 7 and the grain face!) of the body of the strip. I

' An incision 11 2) is made in the body of the strip through the flesh face near its inner edge, and in the present instance it is inclined toward the, inner edge 5 and is of a de ,th sufficient to-"extend substantially half way through the thickness of the strip.

lVhile fthe incision shown is formed by a straight cut, it will be understood that it might be otherwise formed; 1

Next the body portion 13 between the incisi'on .11 and-the inner edge oithe strip is bent or pressedor set outward to open-"the incisionjand form the roove o1: channel 15 (Fig. 3) which-is adapted to receive the illseam stitching, as more fully hereinafter described. In pressingthe body portion outward the inneredge3 forms ahe'vel' 17 at an obtuse angle with respectto thegrainface of the strip, and in the presentjinstance the edgei19 of the body portion is brought outward to 'a positionwhere 'itis opposite-to'the line of juncture of the inner edge with the cross section with edges 3 and 5 substantially gr ain'face'ofthestrip, while the edge 2 1 oi the body portion is brought outward a sub formed in Zoneoperation;v

stated, in the old wetting the inner-edge I a is beveled toenab le' itto be seatedsnngly into the angle, formed by the insole feather lip, an'd--lie' in proper position to receive the inseam'stitching. By the present method the bevel of the inner edge is inherent to pressing outhofthe bodiy material .atthe' inner'side 0f the incision 'as described, so

that it tis not necessary to reniove material from the welti ng in producing the beveled edge, and at the same time welting of the same overall width as the old welting can be made from a strip which is narrower than the strip used in making the old welting. As a consequence the present method enables an important saving in material. For example, it maybe supposed that the ordinary welting is made from a leather strip having 'a widthof of an inch and that of an inch of the grain face is removedby thebevel. In the practice-of the present method a narrower stitching 39.

strip maybe employed, such, for example, as one having a width of of an inch. By

making the incisionin this narrower strlp and pressing outward the body material be-.

tween the incision and the inner edge as de-H the port-ion of the strip between the incision scribed, the original overall width of the strip may be increased of an inch, thereby I roducin an i of an inch widthweltin lVhenit is considered that the output of the welting manufacturer is thousands of-yards per day, it will be readily appreciated that welting madeby the present method effects very substantial economy.

l'lavingdescribed the method and the Weltingproduced by'the practice thereof, next will be described the application of the welt to a shoe. Referringto Fig. 5, 25 designates an inner sole having a feather 27,a lip 29 and stitching receiving rib 31. A welt 30 embodying the invention has itsinner bevel edge fitted snugly intothe angle between the featherand lip of the inner sole, the marginal portions of. theupper 35 and its lining 37 being interposed between the adjacent edges of the inner sole and the1welt, and said parts being secured together by the inseam Edge portions of the welt,

inner sole, upper and lining are then trimmed off along the line (Fig. .5). After beating outthe .weltiin the usual manner the filler 41 is laid on'the inner solewithin the boundary of thewelt, andthe welt. and the outer sole 48 are secured together by the outseam stitching 45, as shownin Fig. 6.

.i There are important advantages in making welting by the 1 method set forth herein. VVelting of the same width'as the previous welting can beproduced from a strip of less width, or starting with a strip of the same width as heretofore, .wider welting can be obtained, and ineither case the bevel of the inneredge is obtained without skiving and removal of stock and consequentwaste. The

full width of the grain: face of the strip is retained and there is no unfinished surface of the welt exposed in the finished shoe. The

channel is located so that the inseam stitch-f" ing willpass through the inner margin of the grain faceof the welt, and the marginal orbody portion pressed outward and formed as above described presents a strong, substantial ridge effective to resist the tearingstrain of the stitching. This ridge with its beveled edge increases thepliability of the'welt and facilitates its bending around the toe of the shoe. The welting is simpleandstrong in 1 construction, and can beeasily and cheaply manufactured.-; i

It will be understood that the invention is not limitedto the specific embodiment of the welting and the method of making the same disclosed herein, and that various deviations. can be made therefrom without departing from the spirit andscope of the appended claims.

\Vhat is claimed is zj A 1 A 'method of manufacturing welting for shoes characterized by making a longitudinal incision in the body of a leather strip near an edge thereof, and pressing outward edge of the body of leather strip which is perpendicular to-the flesh and grain faces of the str p, and pressing outward a v portion of the body between the incis on and said perpendi cular edge to form a groove for receivingstitching, and to set the inner edge of the strip out to beoblique to the grain. face.

3. A method of manufacturing welting for shoes characterized by making a longitudi nal incision partway through a strip of welt-' ing material near an edge thereof, setting outward the portion of the body between said incision andedge to open the incision, forin a channel and cause the inner edgeof "the strip to be oblique to the grain face, and pressing said portion to finalform.

4. :A method of manufacturing welting for shoes characterized by cutting inwardly from the flesh'face of a- ,bla ik strip of-stibstan tially rectangular cross section longitudinally thereofand adj acent to one edge of the stri to partially sever a marginal portion, and bending'said marginal portionin'a manner to openfup the incisionto form a stitch receiving groove, set out the outer edge of said portion to be oblique to the grain face, and widen the strip." 1 Z 5. As anfarticle of manufacture,welting for, use in making welt shoes comprising strip of welting material having an'incision adjacent anedge of the strip andextending longitudinally thereof, a .marginal portion between said incision and edge being bent outwardly, and the outer edge of said portion and the grain face forming an obtuse angle.

6. As an article of manufacture, welting" for use in making welt' shoes, comprising a strip of leather having flesh and grain faces and "inner and outeredges, an incision through the flesh face extending into the strip transversely tos aid faces, a marginal portion betweenthe' ineision and the inner edge being pressed outwardfrom the line of juncture of the grain face with the inner edge of the strip, and the outer edge of said portion being oblique to the grain face of the strip. l l

way through the strip, a marginal portion between the incision and inner edge being bent outward and toward the grain face, said portion being pressed and providing a substantial stitch resisting ridge and the outer edge of said portion and the grain face'forming an obtuse angle.

8. Welting comprising a strip of substantially rectangular cross-section having the portion along one edge thereof partly severed therefrom by an incision extending inwardly from the flesh face, said partly severed portion being bent back from the flesh face toward the grain face, and the outer edge of said portion being oblique to the grain face.

9. Welting comprising a leatherstri of substantially rectangular cross section aving a portion partly severed therefrom by an incision extending longitudinally of the strip I adjacent to one edge thereof and extending toward said edge, said partially severed portion being bent back from the flesh face toward the grain face of the strip presenting formed from an outward displacement of said inner edge and of the stock which Was in said groove.

EDWARD W. ARNOLD.

edgeand a bevel at the inner edge of the strip

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