US1666291A - Shirt-making system - Google Patents

Description

M. L. KAPLAN SHIRT MAKING SYSTEM Filed May 13. 1927 2 Sheets-Sheet l A ril 17, 192s. 1,666,291

M. .L. KAPLAN SHIRT MAKING SYSTEM Filed Mayls. 192v 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 [1513* L J 1 s fikmws L 1127 1. fl/Y Patented Apr. 17, 1928.

PATENT OFFICE.

MQRRIS L. KAPLA N, OF HAZLETON, PENNSYLVANIA.

SHIRT-MAKING sYs'rEM.

Application filed May 13, 1927. Serial No. 191,180.

My present invention relates to an improved shlrt making system for use in the manufacture of mens shirts with collars at-' tached as well as with detachable collars. The primary object of my invention is the provision of a detachable collar or an attached collar, for use with a shirt, that will not shrink after being laundered and prepared for the market, and will not shrink when laundered by the wearer of the shirt. By the utilization of the system of my in: vention in the manufacture of shirts and their collars, whether attached or detachable, the collar is shrunken to its minimum size before the garment is placed on the market, and therefore further shrinking of the collar is prevented. The goods, or material, from which the collar is made is shrunk to the required degree, before the pattern of the collar is laid out on the material, and the material of the shirt need not be shrunk at this time. In carrying out my invention the'pattern for the various arts of the shirt, except the collar and colar bands, .is laid out on the material, and from this material, a block or section of sufticient size to furnish the collar, is out, then shrunk, and then marked with the pattern of the collar, and further treated, as will hereinafter be more fully pointed out and claimed.

In the accompanying drawings I have illustrated a lay out for a shirt (except for the collar) and a lay out or pattern for the collar, together with appliances or machines utilized in the shirt making system.

Figure 1 is a plan view showing a portion of a pattern for the various parts of a shirt,

the pattern being laid on the goods ormaterial from which the shirt is to be made, and a dotted section or blank is designated thereon for the collar pattern.

Figure 2 is a plan View of the section of material cut from the shirt pattern or lay.

Figure 2 is plan viewof the collar pat-- tern laid out on the piece of material previously cut from the main piece and shrunken.

Figure 3 is a perspective view of a rotary washing machine which may be used in the process of washing and shrinking the collar material, as 3.

Figure t is a perspective view of a drier or rotary extractor which may be used for extracting the moisture from the collarnaterial after it has left the washer,

Figure is a perspective view showing a press and the manner of pressing the collarmaterial before the collar pattern is laid out on the material.

While I have shown in the drawings only one lay for the shirt and a lay for the collar, it will be understood that the pattern for the shirt is usually cut in stacks or niles, and the pattern for the collar is also 'cut in stacks or piles. Thus Figure 2 shows a single piece of material with the lay for the collar on it, while Figure 5 shows a larger piece with space for a group of collar-patterns.

' In Figure 1 the strip or piece of goods 1, from which the shirt is to be cut, is shown with the back, two fronts, cuiis etc. marked thereon. In marking the pattern on the strip of goods a space indicated by dotted lines 2 is provided, and this material is later cut from the strip into a blank 3 which is of sufficient size to permit it to be shrunken, and yet remain of proper dimensions to receive the collar pattern. This collar-section 3 is first shrunk to a smaller length as indicated by the section 4 in Figure 2 and the top and bottom parts of the collar as 5 and 6, and bands 7 are then laid out on this section as a collar pattern;

In carrying out my system of manufacturing the shirts and collars, I employ a rotary washer, as 8 into which the section 3, or a larger section 3, is introduced and laundered a period of time suflicientto shrink the material to the desired degree. After the material is removed from the washer,' it is placed in a rotary drier or extractor 9 from which the moisture is extracted, and then the shrunken and dried section is ready to be pressed in a presser or pressing machine 10. After leaving the pressing machine the section 3 or 3f is ready to have the collar pattern applied thereto for guidance in cutting outthe parts of the collar.

It will be understood that the lining material of the collar is also shrunk before being cutand incoporatedin the collar, to preventwrinkling and insure a smooth outer face or' surface for the collar.

\Vhen the collar-material is placed in the press the material is fitted lengthwise, in the machine and flat with the width of the goods between the two thumbs in Figure 5. Then as the material is laid fiat on the press it is slightly stretched between the thumbs, and as a result the length of the material is shrunk or shortened, and the press, when applied to the goods, maintains this shrunken condition. The goods are thus shrunk as they are laundered in the Washer 8, and are manually shrunk also, as they are placed in the press for smoothing, and as a result the goods have been shrunk to the minimum condition and thereafter the collar maintains its designated and exact size.

When colored goods or material is .used, it will be apparent that the colored blank 3 or 3 may become bleached or washed out by being submitted to the washing process, in which event the collar would present a shade of color different than the unlaundered c01- ored shirt. To restore the original color and luster of the shrunken collar-blank, the lat-- ter is immersed in a liquid color-restoring material, which mixture may be a solution of water, salt, and ink-blue. This mixture is thoroughly commingled to provide a liquid solution and the collar-material is immersed in and remains in this solution for the proper and correct time to restore the color or shade, in order that the collar may present the same color and shade as the of the shirt.

Before the collar material is pressed, in order that a luster-may be applied thereto, after the color hasbeen restored, the material is placed in a mixture of water and ricematerial starch and agitated while in a washing machine for a time, after which it is removed and partially dried, and the damp material is spread on the press, and smoothed out or spread out flat for the press. Before the press is operated a liquid solution of water, borax and wax is applied to the material, and then when the latter is pressed the original color, luster, and appearance of the collar is proiiided'like that of the shirt.

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is-,

1. A system of shirt making comprising the steps of first laying out a pattern of the parts in a piece of material, then cutting out a blank section of the material, subjecting said blank section to a shrinking treatment, and finally laying out a pattern for the collar or the neck band of the shirt on said section.

:2. A system of shirt making comprising l) laying out a pattern of the parts in a piece of material with the exception of the collar parts and (2) leaving a blank sect-ion in the piece of material (3) subjecting said-- blank sectiononly to a shrinking treatment and (4:) laying out a pattern for the collar of the shirt on said section.

In testimony whereof I have atfixcd my signature.

' MORRIS L. KAPLAN.

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