US1599145A - Garment pattern - Google Patents

Description

Sept. 7, 1926. s. ROBICZEK 1599145 GARMENT PATTERN Filed Jan. 5. 1923 2 Shets-Sheet 1 Should" seam 5! V J 2 Shoulder seam B a a U (,uT awn her I 2 8 3 c I 2 S c l g g -"ZZ M 3 I a S f g; a /Z0 l 24 T "E M 3 n l E l U 2 1* 2 2 F B a ,3 5 1 u I z n K I g r -J in 0-4 l l 3 1 l I I e. s. S.

No.1. 54' inch Tubing maTerial with riqhT side and 52inchee long. No.2. For TucKs.,eT2Tch down each side Zirwhes from folded edge. 4 No.15. Shift mnfer'icll so The) :Tifchinq of fronT TueK will be 8 inchu from lefi side and .sfikhin of has Tue will be afiinehes from riqhT side. No.4. For armhol', slush own each side 7%. inc-hes from upper edge. No.5. Use yufiern for cufiinq FronT nee; Then far shoulder seams ales:- vpyeredqes of 4 Tubing each side of neeK edge. l'lar hem, turn under lower edge of Tubing 5 inches.

No.6. Sew sleeves in armhole: with edges meeting a1 shoulder seams. No.7. FranT and rearof eomplefad dress.

- INVENTOR nSTA/VLEYROB/C'ZE/f.

AT RNEY' Sept. 7 1926.

1,599,145 s. ROBICZEK GARMENT PATTERN Filed Jan. 5. 1923 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 roa mimbri TUBING I INVENTOR Shaky FoZz'c 'wei Y fi i rronnzv Patented Sept. 1926.

v UNITED STATES STANLEY RonIczEir, or New YoRR, N. 'Y., .assrenon To run McCALL COMPANY, new YORK, n. Y., A co PoRArioN on NEW YORK.

PATENT OFFICE.

G RMENT PATTERN.

. Application filed January 3, 1923. Serial No. ei0,4o9.

This invention relates to garment patterns and particularly to a type of pattern adapted to be used as a guide in constructing garments of continuous tubular fabric such I I as knitted jersey, tricollette and similar materials. h H

'My'improved pattern is distinguished from other types ofpatterns in that itdoes not of necessity require a'rnultiplicity of separate pattern pieces to guide'the user in making the garment. In'fact, generally, a single sheet is all that is necessary. Other points of distinction are referred to ;here-' inafter.-'-.

The accompanying drawings illustrate two embodiments of the invention, Fig. '1 being a pattern for a dress and Fig. 2 a'pattern for a blouse. p

Tubular material, for which the present 20 patterns are particularly'intended,.comes in standard widths, generally 52, 54 or 56 inches; which means that when the material is laid flat the doublethickness willlbe onehalf this width. I avail myself of the peculiarities of thiszmateria'l'to make a very simple pattern for garments thereof. Each garment,,or the main or portlon thereof, whenmade of this material is in a single piece and I canuse apattern sheet wh ch s of the width of the double material, either before or aftertaking certain tucks. and can 7 use such a pattern sheet to show where and how thematerial-is to be cut andtucked or otherwise ornamented to get the desired shape, and also-to show how the neck, shoulders, arm holes and the like are to be formed. Byusing the McCallprinted pattern system I can show the above points very clearly and in addition can provide printed directions; in any desired waysuch as diagrams and verbal instructions which will direct the user in performing the successive operations. a L. Q

In ano her application for patent Ser. No. 609,578, filed=Dec. 29, 1922, which I have copending herewith, I have described a particular sort of garment which can be made of tubular material, characterized principally by the provision of certain longitudinally extending tucks which shape the garment and, also use the surplus width for ornamentation and for grading according to the size of the wearer. The patterns of the present invention are designed particularly, though not exclusively, for garments of that sort.

Referring to Fig. 1, the pattern consists of a sheet 10, the wi'dth of which corresponds to the width of the tubular material after the tucks have been allowed for (taken up).

For examplev if 54 inch tubular material is ous points at which the material is to be cut.

The lines 12 and 1e are delineated on the pattern to show the width and location of a front tuck on the completed garment, and a line 16 is printed to show the location of the inner edge of the back tuck on the completed garment. A curved line 18 provides a guide for markingthe material so that it can be cut away to form the neck line. A reference line 20 indicates the center line ofthe pattern and reference dots 22 and 24:

indicate the distances to which the tubular material must be cut or slashed down to provide openings for the arm holes. Darts 26 and 28 are formed in the upper edge of the pattern to show the length of the shoulder seams. 'The shoulder seams on the garment will correspond respectively to the distances between the points 26 and. 30, and the points 28 and 32.

The pattern also contains a printed chart showing full directions for making up a gar- -ment of tubular material.

This chart comprises a series of diagrams showing in sequence different steps. or operations involved in the making. A set of instructions is also printed and these instructions are expressed in the form of concise-statements which are identified with the diagrams. For example the diagrams as shown on the pattern are numbered from 1 to 7 inclusive, and the directions consist of 7 brief directions which are also numbered from 1 to 7.

Diagram 1 shows a piece of tubular material and instruction 1. states that the ma terial is a inch piece of tubing with the right side out, 52 inches long.

ll iagrani 2 shows in dotted lines tucl-cs 34*. and 36 which are to be stitched doveach side of the material from the fold, edge, and instruction 2 expresses this in r in a brief yet concise way.

The next step in making the garment is to shift the material so that the stitching ofthe fronttuck will be, say for example, 8 inches from the leftside and the stitching of the back tuck willbe 8 inches fron the right side.

Diagram 3 shows the tucks and thus shifted and instruction 3 explains the step. The next step is to slash down or cutthe material the required distance from the upper edge to form the arm hole, For the garment shown in the pattern illustrated, this distance is 7 inches. This step illustrated in Diagram 4 and is explained in instruction 4.

The fifth step is to cut away the front neck using line 18 of the pattern as a guide and then sewing the upper edges of the tubing together between the points corresponding with 26 and 30 and 2S and 32 on the pattern in order to form the shoulder seams. This step is shown inDiagram 5 and explained in instruction 5. The sleeves are next sewed'to the edges adjacent the arm holes with the edges meeting at the shoulder seams. These sleeves are each made of a simple rectangular piece of material and do not require any separate pattern for their cutting. One sleeve is indicated in Diagram 6 and the directions for assembling it is given in instruction 6.

Diagram 7 depicts a front and rear view of the finished garment and the legend 7 so states. Diagram 7 and instruction 7 may be omitted from the pattern if desired or it may be printed on the pattern envelope if desired. The construction diagram and instructions are shown printed on the pattern which is preferable. but it is to be understood that if desired I can print these parts on a separate sheet or on the pattern envelope if des red.

' For grading the patterns, that is, making patterns of the same design for persons of ditlerent sizes, changes will be made in the width of the pattern sheet, the width or curve of the neck line 18, the location of the points 22, 24, which regulate the size of the arm hole and the width of the tucks. It will be assumed that all sizes of garments are made from the same. width of material. say 54 inches. and this fact will generally be printed on the pattern. The grading in width will then be secured by simply changing the width of the tucks.

In adapting the pattern to different sizes the printed. material, of course, will be changed in the dimensions given, as far as may be necessary. The diagrams and printed d rections will not have to be changed exccpt in the features referred to For a complete dress such as is shown in 1 it is only necessary to make the pattern correspond to the upper part, the lower part being a mere continuation thereof in a straight tucked tube, and being obvious from the ding am (No. 7). if there were any peculiar Lies in the lower part of the dress the pattern could be made long enough to show them or separate sheets might be used for accessory parts of the garment. i

The pattern of Fig. 1 has its width equal that of the doubled material after the t king of the tucks illustrated. For some garments it is preferable to make the pattern of the width of the doubled material before the taking of such tucks. An example of this is shown in Fig. 2, which is a pattern for a blouse showing a diagonal tuck 33 extending across the front and back, from the shoulder to the waist. Such a blouse is' shown pictorially in the lower part of the figure at In this case the pattern sheet 95 should be of the full length of the garment because the oblique tuck necessitates an offset in the upper edge and another 36 in the lower edge of the material. The printed direct-ions on this pattern are similar in character to those of Fig. 1 and do not need explanation in detail.

The invention is applicable in' various ways, thus in Fig. 1 I have shown a pattern sheet itself of desired width and length. In Fig. 2, however, the dimensions are shown in a tinted field surrounded by a margin 87 which is to be cut away in using the pattern.

Attention may be directed to the instructions and lines to be used. In forming the lower edge of the blouse, the front lower edge 38 is convex, or lower at the center and is indicated by the heavy edge of the tinted held. The back lower edge 89 is concave, 115 or shorter in the center and is indicated by a fine line within the tinted field. he printed direct ons show that both these edges are to be gathered. Directions are also provided for slashing the lower edge at opposite sides to form openings. The center line is offset at the diagonal tuck; the two parts thereof coinciding of course after the tucks have been taken. A seam allowance is indicated at the top and bottom only, remembering that there are no seams at the sides.

lVhile I have described quite specifically a )attern having certain detailed instructions thereon, it is to be understood that the description and the details delineated are to be construed in an illustrative rather than a limiting sense. A

What I claim'isz" a 1. A pattern for guidance in making a garment of tubularmaterial comprising a substantially rectangular single pattern sheet the width of which is substantially equal'to that of the tubular material, said pattern sheet having indicia thereon for guidance in cutting said tubular material.

2. A pattern for guidance in making a garment of tubular material comprising a single sheet having substantially parallel sides adapted to be aligned with the edges of the tubular material, said pattern sheet having markings thereon showing the width and location of certain vertically extending tucks.

3. A pattern for guidance in making a complete garment of tubular material comprising a single sheet having substantially parallel sides, the top of said sheet being substantially perpendicular to said sides, said sheet having marks thereon indicating where the material is to be cut to form the'neck opening and armholes.

In witness whereof, I have hereunto signed my name.

STANLEY ROBIGZEK.

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