US1329221A - Sewing-machine - Google Patents

Description

J. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED DEC-2. mm.

1,329,221. Patented Jan. 27, 1920.

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Wbbmzooeo J. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION man DEC. 2. m4.

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' J. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATIQN FILED DEC.2. 1914.

1,329,221 Patented Jan. 27, 1920.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

J. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 2, 1914.

'1 ,329,221 Patented J an. 27, 192k 6 SHEETSSHEET 4- 5] 5g??? 6 a 9; E 5-? 2 v 0 Z5 2 a W G H L-Z i 52 v 53 20 22 J. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED 0110.2, 19x4.

' 1,329,221, Patented Jan.27,1920.

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J. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED DEC. 2. 1914.

Patented Jan. 27, 1920.

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UNITED STATES, PATENT OFFICE.

JOSEPH BERGER, OF UTICA, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Jan. 27, 1920.

Application filed December 2, 1914. Serial No. 875,109.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOSEPH BERGER, a citizen of the United States, residing at Utica, in the county of Oneida, State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompanying drawing and to the figures of reference marked thereon.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines, and more particularly to the stitch forming mechanism and the thread laying devices, whereby loops of thread are formed on the upper face of the material and stitched thereto by the needle threads.

An object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of the above character, wherein the loops laid on the upper face of the fabric are formed by a thread guiding member movable back and forth at one side of spaced needles and in a direction substantially parallel to the line of feed, and a thread carrying hook or the like which engages the thread of the thread guiding member and forms the same into a loop which is positioned for the entrance of one of the needles.

A further object of the invention is to provide a stitch forming mechanism of the above character, which may be used for uniting an edging to a body fabric, with a third needle set at some distance from the needles for joining the edging to the body fabric, whereby a lining or facing strip may be simultaneously stitched to said body fabric.

A further object of the invention isto provide an improved mechanism for supporting and operating the thread carrying hook, whereby it may be positively moved back and forth, and whereby the position of the same may be readily adjusted or varied to facilitate the setting of the hook relative to the needles.

A still further object of the invention is to provide means for supporting the thread guiding member beneath the work support and for positively oscillating the same back and forth in a direction substantially parallel with the line of feed.

These and other objects will in part be obvious and will in part be hereinafter more fully described.

In. the drawings which show by way of illustration one embodiment of the invention,

Figure 1 is a front view of a sewing machine embodying my improvements;

Fig. 2 is an end View of the same;

Fig. 3 is a view partly in plan and partly in section, taken on the line 33 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of certain of the parts beneath the work support;

Fig. 5 is a vertical sectional view through a portion of the looper support and showing the means for supporting and operating the thread guiding member;

Fig. 6 is a sectional view on the line 66 of Fig. 5;

Fig. 7 is a view partly in plan and partly in section, showing more or less diagrammatically, the loopers, the connection therefor, the thread guiding member and the thread carrying hook and the operating member for said thread carrying hook;

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 7, showing the thread carrying hook at the other end of its stroke.

Fig. 9 is a perspective view, showing the thread guiding member and the support therefor; V

Fig. 10 is a sectional view on the line 1010 of Fig. 7

Fig. 11 is a sectional view through the end of the carrier for the thread carrying hook, showing the manner of mounting the same therein;

Fig. 12 is a diagrammatic view, showing the position of the fabric, the facing strip and edging relative to the needles, the loopers, the thread guide and the thread carrying hook;

Fig. 13 is a diagrammatic view, showing the thread guide at the forward end of its stroke and the thread carrying hook at the rear end of its stroke and the position of the needles relative thereto;

Fig. 14 is a similar view, showing the hook as moved forward sufiiciently to engage the thread carried by the thread guiding member;

Fig. 15 is a similar view, showing the thread carrying hook at the forward end of its stroke and the loop formed for the entrance of the needle on its next descent;

Fig. 16 is a diagrammatic view in side elevation showing the position of the needle, the thread guiding member and the thread ca rying 11 01; h n the h ok is e gaging the thread carried by said thread guiding member; and

F ig.'17 is a plan view of the presser foot. My improved machine, asshown in the drawings, consists of a supporting bed 1 carrying a work support 2. ing arm 3 is mounted on said supporting bed and a need e bar 4- is reciprocated in said overhanging arm by a needle lever 5, which 15 operated by a link 6 cooperating with an eccentric on the main shaftf. Said needle lever 5 is provided with the usual needle lever extension 8. Also mounted in the overhanging arm is a presser bar 9, carrying a presser foot 10. This presser bar may be lifted bya hand lever 11 or by a lever 12, which is adapted to be connected to a tread e in the well known manner.

At the lower end of the needle bar t there is a needle head 13, in which are mounted three needles 11, 15 and 16. The needles 15 and 16 are grouped together and cooperate 1n securing an edging to a body fabric. The

, body fabric is guided to the stitch forming mechanism by a suitable edge guide 17, which may be adjusted so that the edge of the body fabric will pass between the me dies 15 and 16 so that the stitches formed by the needle 15 are laid just over the edge of the body fabric and cover the same. The needle 14 enters the body fabric we l back from the edge thereof. In Fig. 12 of the drawing, I have shown the body fabric in sleeve is journa ed in the bearings 22 and 23. A. fork 24 engages the sleeve between said bearings and this fork cooperates with an eccentric on the main shaft 7. As the main shaft rotates the looper support 20 will be given an oscillation and this oscillation provides the usual needle avoiding movement for the looper. The loopers are moved into and out of their respective needle loops by a link 25, which cooperates with the needle le er extension 8. The looper 18 cooperates with both of the needles 15 and 16 and therefore the looper thread not only looks each needle oop of this pair of needles, but

.also forms connecting threads between the pairs of needle loops.

My improved machine is especially adapted for, joining an edging to a body fabric and also for stitching a facing strip to the underface of said body fabric. In Fig. of the drawing, 1 have indicated the edging at E. and thefacingstrip at L. The edging An overhang is guided so that the needle 16 passes through the edging, the edge of which may aline with or be slightly overlapped by the body fabric. The lining or facing strip L is entered at one edge by the needle 15 and at the other edge by the needle l t. The looper thread beneath the work support, which is interlocked with the needle loops of the needles 15 and 16, joins the st to the body fabric through the connecting threads passing from one needle loop to the other.

The edging is joined to the body fabric above the material by thread laying devices which form loops which are entered by the needles 15 and 16 and stitched to the body fabric and edging. The lining strip is guided underneath the work support by a guide 26. This guide delivers the lining strip directly in front of the presser foot.

through aslot'in the work support. The edging is guided to the stitching mechanism by a suitable guide 27, which also is located beneath the work support and delivers the edging through a slot directly in front of the prcsser foot, said guide for the facing strip being formed with a slot 28, while the guide for the edging is for ned with a slot These slots are for the purpose of facilitating the insertion of the facing strip and edging into their respective guides.

lvfy improved machine is also especially adapted for stitching an elastic body fabric 7 and joining a non-elastic facing strip there- Beneath the work support is a main to. feeding mechanism which includes a series of feed dogsBO, each of which is carried by a feed bar 31, which is moved back and forth by a feed rocker 32 in the usual manner in this type of machine, and said feed bar is raised and lowered by an eccentric 33 carried by the main shaft 7. This main feeding mechanisi cooperates with the underface of the presser foot and feeds the facing strip and edging to the stitch forming mechanism and also the body fabric with the lining and edging stitches thereto away from the stitch forming mechanism. Cooperating with this feeding mechanism is an auxiliary feeding member 34, which is in the form of a gathering blade. The body fabric B passes over a separating plate 35 underneath which the facing strip is guided V and this gathering blade 34 engages the body fabric as it rests on this separating plate and feeds the same forward underneath the presser foot. An elastic body fabric is liable to be stretched and to overcome this stretching of the body fabric the gathering blade 34 maybe given a slightly faster feeding movement than the main feeding mechanism, as is well known in this art. "This gathering blade is carried by a supporting bar 37., which is pivoted at its upper end to a. lever 38 and the lever 38 is connected.

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by links 39' to an 'arm- 40 carried by a rock shaft 41 mounted in suitable bearings at the rear of the overhanging arm. This rock shaft 41 is oscillated by a link 42, which cooperates with suitable devices actuated by the main shaft beneath the work support. The links 39 carry an arm 48 which has a roller running in a slot 44 in a controlling plate 45. This controlling plate is freely mounted on the rock shaft 41 and is connected by a link 46 with an arm 47 mounted at the upper end of the presser bar 9. The bar 37 passes through a sleeve 48, which is pivoted to an arm 49 fixed to the needle bar 4. As the needle bar moves up and down the sleeve 48 is carried up and down on the bar 37. The pivotal connection between the bar 37 and the lever 38 may be so disposed that as the sleeve moves up and down on the bar 37 it will cause the bar to oscillate about its pivotal connection. The oscillation of the shaft 41, through the lever 38, will raise and lower the bar, the toggles being held in substantially fixed relation to each other by the slot 44 in the controlling plate 45. Through these devices, the gathering blade is not only moved back and forth but is positively raised and lowered so as to engage the fabric and feed it forward and to move backward when out of engagement with the fabric. lVhen the presser bar is lifted to raise the presser foot from the fabric the controlling plate is swung through the link 46. The cam slot 44 in this controlling plate is so shaped that this upward movement of the plate buckles the toggles which swings the lever 38 and raises the gathering blade from the fabric. This facilitates the insertion of the fabric underneath the presser foot as the gathering blade is raised by the mecha nism which lifts the presser foot.

The gathering lade is preferably spring pressed against the fabric by a suitable spring 50 and the downward movement of the blade is limited by a suitable stop 51. This enables the blace to be raised from the fabric during its return movement and during the lifting of the press-er foot and leaves the blade free to be yieldingly pressed against the fabric during its feeding action;

This gathering blade and the operating mechanism therefor form no part of the present invention, except as said gathering blade serves partly as an auxiliary feed to f ed the body fabric in stitching a facing strip and an edging thereto by my improved stitching mechanism. 7

The thread laying mechanism for forming loops which join the threads carried by the needles 14 15 includes a thread guiding member This thread guiding member 52. as shown in Fig.9, consists of supporting shank which is fixed to support 54. The support 54 is in the form of a sleeve adapted to engage the free end of a shaft 55 passing through the sleeve 21 which carries the looper support. This shaft 55 carries a fork 56 at its opposite end. The fork 56 is clamped to the shaft by suitable screws 57. This fork also cotiperates with an eccentric 59 on the main shaft 7. As the main shaft '7 rotates, the shaft 55 will be oscillated and this will oscillate the thread guiding member back and forth in a direction substantially parallel to the line of feed. The guiding eye 60 for the thread moves in a line entirely at one side of the needles. Cotiperating with this thread guiding eye 60 is a thread laying hook 61. The thread laying hook 61 has a notch 62 formed in its outer end and this hook is carried by a supporting shank 63 which is adjustably clamped in a sleeve 64 carried adjacent the outer end of an arm 65. The arm 65 is adjustably secured to an oscillating support 66. Said support 66 has a recess 67 in its underface in which said arm is seated and a screw 68 passing through a slot 69 in said support 66 holds the arm in its seat and clamps the same in adjusted positions. The support 66 is carried by a pivot stud 70, which is mounted in suitable bearings 71 carried by the head of the machine. At the extrem end of the outer end of the arm 65 is a ball stud. 72. A link 73 engages said ball stud at one end and the other end of the link is attached to a ball stud 74 carried by the needle lever extension 8. This link 73 has right and left hand threads at its opposite ends, so that by turning the link the orcillating position of the arm 65 may be varied and by turning the shank which supports the hook 61 in its supporting sleeve the position of the hook relative to the needles may be slightly varied. Also, by adjusting the length of the arm 65, the oscillating po sition of the hook relative to the needles may be varied. These adjustments provide for a setting of the hook. so that it will pass close in front of the needles 15 and 16.

The operation of the thread laying devices will be obvious from Figs. 12 to 16. inclusive. of the drawings, wherein the position. of the parts is diagrammatically illustrated. As above noted, the edging and the body fabric are fed to the stitching mechanism so that the needle 16 preferably passes outside of the edge of the body fabric and through the inner edge of the edging. The thread of the looper 18 not only locks each needle loon, but joins said needle loops so that cross threads are laid back and forth on the under face of the fabric. Above the fabric the thread guided through the thread guide 52 is formed in loops which are locked by the threads of the needles. In Fig. 13 of the drawings. I have shown the needles completing their downward movement; the thread guide 52 at the forward end of its stroke and the thread hook 61 at the rear end of its"str'oke'and 'about'to'move forward to engage in the notch 62 of said hook the thread carried by said thread guide. In Fig. 14 said hook 61 is moved forward sufficiently to engage the thread carried by the said thread guide 52 and said thread guide 52 is slightly retracted. In Fig. 15, the thread carrying hook has reached the forward end of its stroke, the needles have been withdrawn from the fabric and the fabricfed for a new stitch. As the needles descend, the needle 15 passes into the loop formed in the thread of the thread guide by the hook 61, While the needle 16 passes in front of the thread, so that when the thread guide again moves forward its thread will be looped about this needle. In Fig. 16, the parts are positioned as shown in plan view in Fig. 13; that is, the thread hook is about to engage the thread of the thread guide leading from the eye thereof around the needle 16 which is,

at this time near the end of its downward stroke. In Fig. 17 of the drawings, I have shown in detail the presser foot 10, which consists of a main section 72 whichis fixed to the presser bar 9 and a yielding section 73 which is carried by the main section, so that it may yield to accommodate itself to the varying thickness of the material passing underneath said section of the foot. The section 7 3 is formed with a stitch tongue 74. over which the cross thread carried by the thread guide is laid.

From the above, it is apparent that the thread guide is mounted beneath the work support and is positively moved back and forth in a direction substantially parallel with the line of feed, while the thread laying hook moves back and forth in a direction substantially at right angles to the line of feed and in front of the needles. The loops formed by the threads carried by said thread guide join the needle threads of the needles 15 and 16 above the fabric and thus unite the edging to the body fabric and also anchor the overedge stitches formed by the needle 16, so that the edge of the body fabric is encircled by the stitching threads. One edge of the facing strip is secured to the body fabric by the needle 15, while the other edge is simultaneously secured to the body fabric by the needle 14.

It is obvious that minor changes in the detail of construction and arrangement of parts may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention, as set forth in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:

1. The combination of a work support, an overhanging arm, feeding mechanism, and stitch forming mechanism including a plurality of needles, a thread guiding member movable back and forth in a line substantially parallel with the line of feed, means mounted beneath the work support for supporting and operating said thread guiding member, a thread engaging hook having a shoulder adapted to engage the thread on the forward movement of the hook, means for moving said hook into engagement with the thread extending through said thread guiding member, and then across the line of feed and in front of the needles for forming and holding a loop in said thread for the needle farthest from said thread guiding member, and means carried by the overhanging arm for supporting the hook.

2. The combination of a work support, an overhanging arm, stitch forming mechanism including spaced needles, a feeding mechanism and a thread laying mechanism for said needles including a thread guiding member movableback and forth in a line sub stantially parallel with the line of feed, means mounted beneath the work support for supporting and operating said thread guiding member, a loop forming member for engaging the threadof said thread guide, an arm carried by the overhanging arm of the machme and supporting said loop forming member, means for oscillating said arm,

and means for adjusting said armlongitudr nally for varying the position of the loop forming member relative to the needles.

3. The combination with a work support and stitch forming mechanism including spaced needles and a looper cooperating with said spaced needles beneath the work support, a looper support on which said looper is pivotally mounted, a sleeve carrying one end of said looper support, a thread laying mechanism including a thread guiding member, a'shaft extending through said sleeve and supporting said thread guiding member, and means for oscillating said shaft.

1. The combination with a work support and stitch forming mechanism including spaced needles and a looper cooperating with said spaced needles beneath the work support, a looper support on which said looper is pivotally mounted, a sleeve carrying one end of said looper support, a thread laying mechanism including a thread guiding member. a shaft extending through said sleeve and supporting said thread guiding member, means for oscillating said shaft, and a thread la ing hook coiiperating with said thread guiding member and movable ina direction substantially at right angles to the path of oscillation of said thread guiding member.

5. The combination with a work support, an overhanging arm, stitch forming mechanism including a needle bar, spaced needles carried by the needle bar, a needle lever for reciprocating said needle bar, a looper cooperating with the needles bene th the work support, and a link for oscillating said looper from said needle lever, of a thread laying mechanism including a thread guide, and a cooperating thread laying hook, means for supporting said thread laying hook, whereby the same may be moved back and forth in front of the needles, and a,link connecting said supporting means with the needle lever for oscillating said supporting means.

6. The combination with a work support, an overhanging arm and stitch ,forming mechanism, of a thread laying mechanism cooperating with said stitch forming mechanism above the work support. said thread laying mechanism including a thread carrying member, a support pivoted to the overhanging arm, an arm attached to said support 011 which said thread carrying member is mounted, and means for oscillating said arm, said arm being adjustably attached to said support whereby the same may be moved longitudinally for adjusting the position of the thread carrying member relative to the stitching mechanism.

7. The combination of a work support, feeding mechanism, stitch forming mechanism including a pair of needles and a third needle widely spaced from said pair of needles, a looper cooperating with said pair of needles beneath the work support, a looper cooperating with the other needle, a thread laying mechanism cooperating with said pair of needles above the work support for joining the lines of stitching formed by said needles, means for guidin a bodv fabric, wherebv the edge thereof passes between the needles, means for guiding a facing strip underneath the body fabric whereby the same is engaged by the inner needle of the pair and the widely spaced needle, and means for guiding an edging, whereby the same is engaged by the outer needle of one of said pair, so that said edging is secured to the body fabric and to the lining by the cross threads joining the lines of stitching by said pair of needles.

8. The combination with a work support, an overhanging arm, stitch forming mechanism including a needle bar, spaced needles carried by the needle bar, a needle lever for reciprocating said needle bar, a looper cooperating with the needles beneath the work support, and a link for oscillating said looper from said needle lever, of a thread laying mechanism including a thread guide, and a cooperating thread laying hook, means for supporting said thread laying hook, whereby the same may be moved back and forth in front of the needles, and a link connecting said supporting means with the needle lever for oscillating said supporting means, said second mentioned link being connected to the lever at a point above the first mentioned link to give said supporting means a shorter travel than the travel of the looper.

9. The combination with a work support and stitch forming mechanism including spaced needles and a looper cooperating with said spaced needles beneath the work support, a looper support on which said looper is pivotally mounted, a sleeve carrying one end of said looper support, a thread laying mechanism including a thread guiding member, a shaft extending through said sleeve and supporting said thread guiding member, means for oscillating said shaft, and separate means to oscillate said sleeve to give said looper its needle avoiding movements.

10. The combination with a work support and stitch forming mechanism including spaced needles, a looper cooperating with said spaced needles beneath the work support, of a thread laying mechanism for forming loops in a thread to be engaged by said needles above the work support, said thread laying mechanism including a thread guiding member mounted beneath the work support and projecting above and overhanging the work support, and means located beneath the work support for operating said thread guiding member.

11. The combination with a work support and stitch forming mechanism including spaced needles, and a looper cooperating with said spaced needles beneath the work support, of a thread laying mechanism including a thread guiding member mounted beneath the work supnort and extending above and overhanging said looper and means located beneath the work support for operating the thread guiding member, and a device cooperating with said thread guiding member for forming loops in the thread guided thereby and positioning the same for the entrance of the needles.

12. The combination with a work support and stitch forming mechanism, including spaced needles, a looper cooperating with the spaced needles beneath the work support, of a thread laying mechanism including a thread guiding member mounted beneath the work support and overhanging the work support and the looper and means located beneath the work support for operating the thread guiding member, and a device cooperating with said thread guiding member for forming loops in the thread guided thereby for the entrance of the needles above the work support.

In testimony whereof, I aiiix my signature in the presence of two witnesses.

JOSEPH BERGER.

Witnesses:

EARL C. CLARK, LAMBERT NELBACH.

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