US1325837A - Chusetts - Google Patents

Description

E. W. DUNBAR AND G. FERGUSON.

METHOD OF MAKING TURN SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 31. I919.

Patented Dec.

srnrns PATENT onmon.

ERNEST W. ID'UIIBAR, OF HUDSON, AND GEORGE FERGUSON, 0F WOLLASTON, MASSA- UH'USETTS, ASSIGNDRS T0 UNITED SHOE IVIAGHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPGRATION OF NEW JERSEY.

METHOD 01E MAKING- TURN-SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 23,1919.

Application filed March 31, 1919. Serial No. 286,520.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, ERNEST W. DUNBAR and GEORGE FERGUSON, citizens of the United States, residing at Hudson, in the county of ll/liddlesex, and Wollaston, in the county of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts, respectively, have invented certain Improvements in Methods of Making Turn-Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

The present invention relates to the manu facture of shoes and more especially it con cerns the manufacture of shoes of the type commonly known as turn shoes. In the manufacture of turn shoes the shoeupper is sewed to the sole by single faced stitches while the upper is inside out, the stitches being received in a shoulder or sewing rib formed on the upper side of the sole and subsequently the shoe is turned right sideout. By reason of the shoulder or sewing rib on the sole being disposed in the interior of the turned shoe it is necessary to insert a filler, sometimes termed a slip sole, in the shoe in order to provide the interior of the shoe witha smooth and level surface to engage the foot. It is customary to insert this filler or slip sole in the shoeafter the shoe has been turned right side out and before relasting the shoe, so as to avoid restricting the free turnmg of the shoe and to enable a shank stiffener to be incorporated in the shoe. This practice necessitates worki in in the interior of the shoe which is very di icult and inconvenient and, moreover, it does not admit of sufiicient accuracy in performing this operation to provide adequately for shoe comfort and appearance.

An object of the present invention is to obviate these and other disadvantages and to provide for manufacturing turn shoes with greater facility and to better advantage, as well as toinsure comfortable and satisfactory foot-engaging surfaces in the shoes.

With this object in view the present invention, in one of its aspects, contemplates a method of making turn shoes which consists in first sewing a shoe upper inside out a to a sole having arib extendmg along its upper marginal surface to receive the upper the shoe.

attaching stitches, applying to the sole a sheet filler shaped to fill the recess within the said rib, attaching the filler in the recess at the forepart of the sole turning the shoe right side out, incorporating a shank stiffener in the shoe between the unattached portion of the filler and the sole and thereafter relasting the shoe and completing its manufacture. For the purpose of illustration the sole herein shown consists of vulcanized rubber having a sewing rib extending along its upper marginal surface to receive the stitches for sewing the shoe upper to the sole, the rib terminating at substantially the heel breast line on either side. The filler, which consists of flexible sheet material such as felt or similar material, may conveniently he died out to a shape to fill the recess formed by the rib through the forepart and the shank and thus level off the upper surface of the sole flush with the top of the rib. In applying the filler to the sole it is preferably cemented in position in the recess at the forepart of the shoe and left unattached to the sole through the shank. In this way the shoe may be accurately and conveniently fitted to the sole and the shoe then readily turned without dis placing the filler. Also, bv leaving the shank portion of the filler unattached to the sole, a shank stiffener may be readily applied to the upper side of the sole and then covered by the filler prior to relasting The invention in another of its aspects, and as herein illustrated, further contemplates a method of making turn shoes which includes the use of a filler having an integral heel seat portion upon which the heel end of the shoe upper is lasted after the shoe has been turned to complete the incorporation of the filler as a unitary part of the shoe. By this procedure, if desired, the use of a shank member separate from the forepart filler, to which to fasten the lasted-in portion of the upper around the heel and to level off the shank and heel seat portion on the interior of the shoe may be avoided.

The invention in its various aspects will In the drawings,

Figure 1 illustrates in perspective a filler such as may be conveniently employed in the practice of the method of the invention;

Fig. 2 shows in perspective the application of the filler to a sole to which the upper has been secured before the shoe is turned right side out;

Fig. 3 shows the incorporation of the shank stiffener in the shoe after the shoe is turned right side out, and

Fig. 4 shows theheel portion of the shoe lasted on to the heel seat portion of the fillerand the shoe ready for the attachment of a heel.

In carrying out the invention in one manner in which it has been successively prac- -tised, a turn sole 2, together with the shoe upper, is first assembled on the last 6 with the upper turned inside out in the customary manner and as shown in Fig. 2. In the illustrated embodiment of the invention "the sole 2'is of vulcanized rubber and has a nailed seat turn shoe.

- select this kind the rib 8 to which the upper is attached produces recess through the forepart and shank of the sole whlch it is necessary to fill 1n order to provide a smooth and level fOOt-GD ZL 'lDQ' surface on the interior of the shoe. In the practice of the method of the invention the shoe upper 31s sewed inside out to the sole by means of the sewing rib in the usual manner of any i turn shoe. 2 Prior to the turning of the shoe right side outfhowever, and preferably be fore the shoe is removed from the last 6,

filler or slip sole12 is applied to-the shoe.

vThis filler,'illustrated in Fig. 1, is preferably cut out of sheet material such as felt or other flexible andwear-resisting material.

.The filler is shaped -so as'to fit within the recess formed by the sewing rib 8 through "the forepartand shankof the sole and at its heel-"end itYis provided with an integral heel .iseat portion "l tof a shape to cover the zentire heel 'seat area on the interior'of the shoe.

' In laccordance with the succeeding step in'the process this fi1ler12fis fitted into the recess on the upperside of the sole 2, "the forepart. portion of the filler being per- :m'anentl'y *attached, as by cement, to the [sole whilethe shank and heel-seat portions :of the fillerware left unattached'to the sole. iByz-fittingrthe filler 12 on to the sole 2 before the shoe is turned right side out a more convenient workin condition and greater accuracy is obtainable than where the filler is inserted in the shoe after it is turned. Preferably the filler 12 is fitted in the recess formed by the sewing rib 8 very snugly so that after the shoe is turned right side out and the sole reversely conformed (particularly transversely) to that in which it is maintained before turning, the sewing rib 8 acts to bind or contract the filler in the recess. After the filler 12 has been applied to the sole as described, the last (3 is withdrawn and the shoe turned right side out in the usual manner. The free turning of the shoe is not interfered with by the addition of the sheet filler and by reason of the attachment of the filler to the sole at the forepart it is not displaced from its predetermined location on the sole during the turning operation.

In the next step of the process the un attached shank and heel seat portion of the filler 12 is lifted up and a shank member 16 of any suitable construction is placed on the upper side of the sole, so as to lie within the sewing rib on either side of the shoe and conveniently fastened in position by a shank attaching means 20 arranged to project through a hole in the shank member as illustrated in Fig. 3. The shank and heel. seat portion of the filler is then laid down into position to cover the shank piece. Thereafter a second last is inserted in the shoe as in the usual process of making turn shoes and the heel end portion of the upper 4t lasted over on to the heel seat portion 14 of the filler. This manner of heel seat lasting on to the filler eliminates the necessity of using the usual heel seat and shank member ordinarily used in nailed seat turn shoes and in addition it completes the at tachment of the filler against displacement and incorporates the filler as a unitary part of the shoe. As in making any nail seat turn shoe, the heel seat portion of the sole is neXt fastened down on the shoe bottom as by heel seat nailing and a heel then attached to the shoe. If desired, a sock lining or other finishing layer of material may be applied to the upper side of the filler to improve the appearance of the interior of the shoe.

It will be noted that-by the practice of the method above described the operation of filling or otherwise leveling ofi the interior of the shoe after the upper has been attached can be more accurately performed than by prior methods and this without interfering or otherwise restricting the customary turn shoe operations during its manufacture. Also it is to be appreciated that the shank stiffener may be incorporated in-a shoe to better advantage inasmuch as it is positively maintained in position by the overlying filler and in additionthe cost of a shank filler suitable for use in connection with this method is much less than the cost of the present types of stiffeners. A common objection to the prior methods of filling turn shoes is that the filler is ordinarily cemented in position at one or two places and consequently in the wear of the shoe the filler tends to work loose and becomes displaced, thus causing discomforture to the wearer. The practice of this process, however, enables the filler to be incorporated in the shoe in such manner that it in fact becomes a unitary part of the shoe.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in the art of making turn shoes which consists in sewing a shoe upper inside out to a sole having a rib along its upper marginal surface to receive the upper attaching stitches, applying to the sole a sheet filler shaped to fill the recess 1 within the said rib, attaching the filler in the recess at the forepart of the sole only, turning the shoe right side out, incorporating a shank stil'ener in the shoe between the filler and the sole and thereafter relasting the shoe and completing its manufacture.

2. That improvement in the art of making turn shoes which consists in sewing a shoe upper inside out to a sole having a rib along its upper marginal surface to receive the upper attaching stitches, attaching to the forepart of the sole a sheet filler shaped to fill the recess within the rib throughout the forepart and the shank, turning the shoe right side out, inserting a shank stiffener between the unattached shank portion of the filler and the sole, completing the attachment of the filler to the sole, and thereafter performing subsequent operations to complete the manufacture of the shoe.

3. That improvement in the art of making turn shoes which consists in sewing a shoe upper inside out to a sole having a rib along its upper marginal surface to receive the upper attaching stitches, attaching to the forepart of the sole a sheet filler shaped to it the recess within the rib throughout the forepart and shank and having a heel seat portion for the attachment of the heel portion of the shoe upper, turning the shoe right side out, inserting a shank stifiener between the unattached shank portion of the filler and the sole, lasting the margin of the heel portion of the shoe upper over on to the heel seat portion of the filler and fastening it in lasted position, relasting the shoe, and thereafter performing subsequent operations to complete the manufacture of the shoe.

4:. That improvement in the art of making turn shoes which consists in sewing a shoe upper inside out to a sole having a rib along its upper marginal surface to receive the upper attaching stitches, attaching to the forepart of the sole a sheet filler shaped to fill the recess within the rib throughout the forepart and the shank and havinga heel seat portion, turning the shoe right side out, inserting a shank stiffener between the unattached shank portion of the filler and the sole, relasting the shoe, lasting the heel end of the shoe upper on to the heel seat portion of the filler, and thereafter comp1eting the manufacture of the shoe in the usual manner.

In testimony whereof we have signed our names to this specification.

ERNEST W. DUNBAR. GEORGE FERGUSON.

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