US1318430A - zaleskl - Google Patents

Description

Patented Oct. 14, 1919.

6 v M Q 1M m i t Z W F. ZALESKI.

BUTTONHOLE STITCHING MACHINE.

L APPLICATION FILED APR. 11, I9l6. 1,318,48Q Patented 0ct.14,1919.

3 SHEETSSHEET 2.

F. ZALESKI.

BUTTONHOLE STITCHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED APR. 11. I9I6.

Patented Oct. 14, 1919.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3 eiaaeo.

FRANK ZALESKI, or CAMBRIDGE, msssonosnr'rs; asszen'oa v'ro was Minor summon norm MACHINE COMPANY, or .nos'ron, russaonnsnw'rs, A CORPORATION or MAINE had therein to the accompanying drawing.

This invention relates to buttonhole stitching machines, and more particularly to the well-known Reece type of buttonhole stitching machine.

The Reece buttonhole stitching machine usually both cuts and stitches'the buttonhole slit, the cutting preferably preceding the stitching. This type of machlne usually employs a movable plate or. clamp which the work is held and fed, there being twov or more stages in the feeding movement,'1ncluding the slow or intermittent movement of the work during stitching and the movement between'the cutting position and the stitching position of the work. One usual arrangement is that, upon presslng the control lever which starts the machine, the cutting of the slit is'first efl'ected, this being followed by a rapid advance of the work from the cutting place forwardly to where the stitching is to commence, a general control cam thereupon throwing out the connections performing these operations and throwing in the stitching devices, V which stitch around the margin, accom anied by a suitable slow feed of the work 0 amp and work until the circuit of the buttonhole has been completed, whereupon the stitching devices and feed are thrown out of engagement and the clamp caused to rapidly move back to initial position, upon which all driving is caused to cease and the machine brought to a stop with the needles out of the work andthe cutting and other parts in readiness for a new operation.- It has been usual to employ the main cam member not only for effecting the described control, but also for effecting the movements of the work clamp during the different stages in the operation of producing a buttonhole. Two quite sepa-' rate power belts and driving connections havebeen employed, the first more rapid in operation than the second, and the two thrown into and out of operation alternately for actuating the main cam and the other county of Middlesex and rwwonHotE-srmnme momma.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented 'oct, 14, 191% Application filed April 11, 1916. Serial No. 90,809.

parts under control of the cam itself. Certain complications resulted from this duplex drive system, which has not been as entirely effective as desirable, nor absolutely invariable in action.

The main object, therefore, of the present improvement 1s to afford a buttonhole stitching machine in which the driving or o erating mechanism is more simpleand e ective than heretofore and invariable in the uniformity of its action.

More especially an object hereof is to dispense with the duplex driving system and to provlde that a single driving part, pulley or belt, which is constantly running under power, may serve to bring about all of the operations of the machine, including the cutting, the jum ing movement following the cuttmg,.th e stitching and the feeding movement accom anying the stitching and the subsequent nal jump movement to initial position, all in the predetermined order and harmony.

It is a more detailed object hereof to sej cure the results mentioned by means of a plurality of quick-acting clutches'and stops exactly and automatically controlled, so that each successive phase or stage of the stitching operation is completed and the parts involved therein brought to a stop prior to is a right elevation of the major portion of I a buttonhole stitching machine of the Reece type embodying the present improvements.

Fig. 2- is a detached right elevation ofthe finger lever for starting the machine into operation.

. Fig. 3 is a right elevation upon a'larger scale of certain of the particular driving and stopping parts involved in this invention, certain parts shown in Fig. 1 being omitted herefrom for clearness.

. Figs. 1, 2 and 3 show the parts in their normal or stopped position occupied by them when the machine is not in operation.

Fig.4 is a view similar to Fig. 3, but at a.

- stage after the depression of the startwr and as the machlne 1s about to start 1nto movementf Fig. 5. in a similar view shows the same parts at a later-stage, the stitching and the slow feed accompanying it having commenced. r 4 Fig. 6 is a central section on the plane 66ofFig.3.',

Fig. 7 is a top plan view of the parts shown in the other figures.

Fig. 8 is a right elevation, partl in sec-. tion on the plane 88 of Fig. 11, o' a clutch device on the worm shaft by which the latter is rapidly advanced. Fig. 9' is-a similar elevation, partly in section on the'plane 9- 9 of Fig. 11, of a clutch on the worm shaftby which the latter is advanced slowly during stitching.

Fig. 10 shows the same parts viewed from the .left of Fig. 9.

Fig. 11 is-a vertical section taken on the plane 11-11 of Fig. '1.

Referring first to some of the usual parts of .the buttonhole stitching machine, a bed 20 is employed, above and below which are the Various mechanisms. Above the bed is the usual overhanging arm 21 i and below it a casing 22, containing the control disk or general cam 23. Above the front portlon of the bed is part of the stitching mechanism, including the upper needle 24, and there may be a-cooperating under stitching mechanism 25 beneath the bed. The buttonhole slit cutter is shown in the form of an arm 26 above the bed having a downward extension 27, which is engagedFat suitable times by a special cam or elevatlon 28 on the control disk 23 for actuating the c'ut-' ter. Associated with they stitching and cutting devices is a clamp plate 29 which supports clamp members 30. This device 29, 30 is adapted to be bodily moved for the purpose of shifting or feeding the work, namely, by means of a bar or frame 31 beneath the bed, the same provided with a. cam roll 32 engaging a groove 33 in the control disk 23. 1 v

The control disk or cam 23 is'a driven part of the machine, and it comes to ajsto at the end of each cycle of operations. This member not only controls the time of cutting and brings about the proper feeding of the workclamp and work, but serves, as will hereinafter more fully appear, to control the driving and stopping devices or. clutches by which thep'ower is transmittedto the disk and to the stitching and other mechanisms.

As a convenient mode of transmitting power to the disk 23 and at the same timefor reducing the rotary; speed of the driving parts, a worm 34 engages the toothed periphery of the disk, this worm being carried connecte ona shaft 35 with which the disk therefore always moves in time. The worm shaft 35 is below the bed at the rearil A second shaft 36 considerabl above the bed is apart of the train of connections for operating the stitching means, and may con-v veniently be termed the stitching shaft. This is rotated at high speed during stitching and actsthrough the needle lever 37 and other stitching connections to -operate the needles, andassociated members.

The connections by. which the rotation of-the stitch shaft 36 are caused to actuate the worm shaft 35 may include an eccentric 38 on 'the'stitch shaft, engaged by the yoke arm of a bell cra nk 39, the rearwardly extendin arm 40 of which (see Fig. 1) 'is g by rod 41' with an arm' 42, by which is actuated a friction clutch device 43, (see Figs. 9 and 10) mounted directly onthe worm shaft 35. 'By these connections the rotation of the stitch shaft causes the worm shaft to rotate intermittently, giving a stepby-step advance to the control disk 23and a corresponding feed to the work during stitchin The iction clutch device 43, just mentioned, is of a typewhich is employed at four different places in the present illus trated machine. The principle of this is thatan eccentric operates to wedge a gripping portion against the rim of the device to efl'ectively utch them together. Thus,

" the eccentric 44, which is rigid with the arm or-extension 42, loosely surrounds the shaft 35, while the rim or drum member 45 is fast upon the shaft. A ring or strap 46 surrounds the eccentric 44, and'at one'sid'e is suitably extended to afford a'gri portion 47, which lies snugly against and is adapted to be wedged against the rim 45. A spring 48 is arranged between pins on the eccentric and on vthe strap, respectively, tending to pull the latter in such direction as to-throw and maintain the grip'47 into a suitable, comparatively light contact with.

the rim 45.

Swinging the arm 42 or turning the eccentric 44' clockwise in Fig. 9 causes the grip 47 to bind moreforcibly against the rim so as to carry the shaft 35 clockwise. At the same time, the engagement of the grip and the rim being normally only a frictional engagement, it is obvious that the shaft may be turned clockwise by some other means, if

- desired, although the eccentric 44 be stationary and the clutch 43 inoperative. This clutch is supposed to operate only to effect intermittent feed during the stitching, and at certain other times when the stitching is not proceeding the clutch is inoperative and the worm shaft is rotated b other connections, as will more fully appear.

As the link or rod41 moves up and down carryin the arm 42 with it, the worm shaft 35 is a vanced clockwise as. follows. The upward movement of the arm 42turns the eccentric 44 so as to bind the grip 47 against the rim ofdrum 45. The gripping is'immediate, and the shaft partakes of the movement. When the arm 42 reaches the top of its stroke and moves downwardly, the

eccentric 44 turns counterclockwise, thus tending to release the grip from the mm and causing cessation of driving engagement, so that the parts are simply restored to position without reversely rotating the shaft. The spring 48 pulls the grip 47 in the counterclockwise movement.

This action of operatively engaging and disengaging the grip with the rim is instantaneous, so that there is no lost motion or variation in action. To render the certainty more certain, the following device may be added. Mounted on the arm 42 1s a small rocking lever 49, (see Flgs. 9 and 10).

- The inward arm of this lever projects toward the shaft 35 and is engaged between two pins 50 mounted on the strap 46. By this arrangement the lever, 1f 1t 1s swung,

.may relatively throw the strap and the grip 47 either toward or from locklng posltion.

The outer end of the lever 49 moves upwardly and downwardly with the swinging of the arm 42. A pair of contact pins 51 are located at the upper and lower ends of the path of movement of the lever 49, these ins being adjustably secured on bracket 52. %y this arrangement the lever 49 operates just as the ascending arm 42 reaches the end of its driving stroke to throw the strap and grip away from gripping position against the resistance of spring 'TlllS is accomplished by the lever striking the upper pin 51, which relatively forces downwardly the outer lever arm, thus lifting the inner lever arm and slightly turning the strap 46 clockwise. When the arm moves downwardly at its idle stroke, the extreme limit of its movement is accompanied by a contact between lever 49 and the lower pin 51, which assists the spring 48 in throwing the grip 47 into driving engagement with the rim. Thus has been described a friction feed mechanism for the worm shaft, one friction member of which is positively moved into and out of gripping engagement with the other. i

This completes the description of the illustrated feed connections by which the stitching shaft 36, when in operation, serves to slowly advance the worm shaft 35 andthe disk or main cam 23. i.

. It is deemed important, whether or not the worm shaft rotation be continuous during stitching, that the driving connections be such that, when inoperative, they do not lock the worm shaft 35, but leave it free to be advanced otherwise. As will be seen times to connect the pulley later, a devioeis employed which locks the shaft 35 agalnst possible reverse movement .Next will be described the driving belt and pulley, which are supposed to run continuously and by whichpower is communicated for all purposes of the machine; and thereafter a double clutching arrangement by which at times the stitching shaft 36 may be driven and at other times connections for causing a shifting of the work when stitching is not proceeding. For convenience I will use the term feed to designate the advance of the worm shaft and main cam and work clamp, which is effected during stitching and from the stitching shaft, Whereas the movement of the parts when the clamp shifts from initial or cutting position to stitching position and reverse I will designate a jump. The latter movement may be, and preferably is, of

much greater speed than the feed movement,

so as to minimlze loss of time between the cutting and stitching operations.

Mounted for convenience on the stitching shaft 36, but loose thereon, is the continuously running belt pulley 60, associated with which is the stitching clutch at its left (Fig. '6) and at its right the clutch which actuates connections for causing the jumping movements of the work. .The pulley 1s shown as having a hub 61. The pulley is formed with concentric recesses at its two sides, so that near the periphery at each side is an inwardly facing surface or rim 62 at the right and 63 at the left. These rims take part in the clutching operations and correspond with the rim 45 in clutch device 43 of Fig. 9.

The stitching clutch serves at the proper 60 With the stitching shaft 36, as seen in cross-section in Fig. 6, and in dotted lines in right elevation in Fig. 5.

The clutch comprises an eccentric 64. This is keyed upon the shaft 36, the pulley 60 and rim 63 being loose thereon. This arrangement is the reverse of that shown in Fig. 9. Surrounding the eccentric 64 is the strap 65 having the extension or gri portion 66 capable of binding against t e rim 63. A circularly arranged coil spring 67 tends to hold the grip 66 lightly in contact with the rim 63.

The gripping action depends upon the relative positions of the eccentric and strap, and to control their relative positions a finger 69 is extended radiall outward from the strap, and a finger 70 is extended radially outward from the eccentric.

When the fingers 69, 70 are unrestrained,

as in Fi 5, a. spring 67 holds the gri rim or relieving thepressure, an this may be accomplished by movlng the finger 69- relatively backward, so that, as compared with Fi 5,.the fingers will assume the posi--. tion of ig. 3, in which it will be seen that the grip is slightly retractedfrom the rim. This uncoupling, andalso the stopping of the stitchingshaft by impact, are both ef-. fected by means of a non-rotating dog 72, shown operative in Fig. 3, and retracted or inoperative in Fig. 5. By swinging the dog inward, as in Fig. 3, the fingers '69, 70 strlke it."- First the finger 69 strikes it, thus disengaging the clutch, the finger 70 then striklng it, thus stopping the shaft,

and the parts being held 1n this position until the dog 72 is subsequently swungoutward to cau the shaft to resume rotation.

A braking device 71 is shown in the form of a plunger 71, pressed powerfully inward by an ad ustable spring. This is initially adjusted so as not tocontact the whirling fingers 69, 70. When, however, finger 69 comes up against dog 72, the continued rotation-of the eccentric tends to force the finger outward, and the brake device 71 by spring yielding resistance to this movement.

imposes a braking force tending to slow the shaft and reduce the shockwhich occurs when the other finger impacts against the dog 72.

The swinging dog or lever 72 is shown rigidly mountedon a shaft 73, this shaft having a second rigid arm 74, the end of which rests upon the top of a cam pin 75, which extends downwardly to where it may coiiperate with a cam or elevation 76 formed on the main cam disk 23. The operation of the cam portion 76.is to lift the and arm 74 so as to throw the dog 2 into its operative position, seen in Fig. 3, and, when the cam releases the pin, a spring 77 tends to restore the parts to the Fig. 5 position. In this way automatic control of the stitching clutch 64-67 is afforded.

be turned over by the hand wheel 54 when the machine is not running, a pivoted device 78 may be used, as seen in Flg. 3, which may be swung into the indicated dotted position for the purpose of-locking the do 2 in place to prevent the stitchingclutc A from becoming operative.

the work to jump to and from stitching position when the stitch shaft is not runise,

stopped, it must been referred to. Referring now to the clutch for causing connections therefrom and other details in Fi' s. 7,8 and 11.

oose on. the hub thegrip. againstthe driving rim 62 of the pulley. When gripped, the pulley is enmechanism tobe described.

- The control -of the clutch 80-83 may be effected by a pair of fingers 84, rigid with the strap, and 85, rigid withithe eccentric, similar to the fingers 69 and 7 0, respectively, of the stitchingclutch. Fig. 4 shows the fingers 84, free and the clutchclosed, so that all the parts 80 to 85 are rotating with the pulley. Figs. 3 and 5 show these parts stopped.

The clutch connections may consist of a sprocket wheel 86, which is keyed upon the hub of the eccentric 80 and is engagedby sprocket chain 87, extending, as seen in Fig.

1, to a sprocket wheel 88 mounted on a short shaft or stud 89, which is also provided with a gear, 90, engaging a gear 91 loose on the worm shaft 35. In order that the gear .91 may advance the worm shaft for the 61 of the ulleyf 60 is an eccentric 80, the hub of w ich is also loose .on the stitchingshaft. Surrounding 'abled to drive through the clutch to the keyed to the worm shaft and engaged by strap 93, having extension or grip 94-engaging the flange or rim of the gear 91.

A spring 95 connects the eccentric and strap. By thi arrangement, when the clutch 8083 is closed, the strap connectionsand ear act to advance the worm shaft, but, w en the clutch is o ene-d, the parts are idle andthe worm shat is free to be advanced by'the iillltefrtmittent connection from the stitching I The described clutch 92-95 not only serves to advance the worm shaft during the initial and final movements of the cam disk and work support, but also during the stitching operation serves to prevent any retrograde movement of the worm shaft.

3 This type of. clutch locks the shaft against In order to permlt the stitching shaft toany but forward movement.

I will now describe the control of th clutch 80-83, which causes the jumping movements of the work support when stitch ing is not proceeding. The two fingers 84 and 85, projectin respectively. from the ec- I centric strap an 1 eccentric, have already Fig. 4 shows the clutch operative, and the fingers with the other clutch parts are whirling around counterclockwise with the driving pulley, the stitching shaft 36 being stationary. In Figs. 3

images from the rim 62 of the pulley. This disengagement or ungripping is immediately followed by the complete stoppage of the driven parts by the impact of the other finger 85 against the dog 96.

Fig. 3, im fact, shows the fingers 69, stopped by the dog 72 and the fingers 84, 85 stopped by the dog 96, so that both the stitching clutch and the jumping clutch are thrown out of action, the machine being in its final stopped condition.

The dog 96 is in the form of an arm swinging about'the same axis as the dog 7 2, not only-for compactness, but for the purpose of a certain joint cam control of the two dogs, as will later appear. The dog 96 is, therefore, of hooked shape, as shown, so as to reach around and take effect at the forward sides ofthe fingers 84, 85. At the opposite side of its axis of swingin the dog 96 is provided with an extension 9 which is pulled downward by spring 98,- which sprlng thereby tends to render the dog effective to release the clutch.

The machine is preferably to be initially started by a finger lever or other member moved at will.- Finger lever 99 is shown, which, when depressed, pulls upon rod 100, which, as seen in Fig. 3, is fast on rock shaft 101, which is also provided with rock arm 103 connected by upward link 102 with the dog 96. Thereby depressing the finger lever swings the dog from the clutch fingers and permits the clutch spring 83 to assert itself to render the clutch operative, so that the driving pulley will cause the actuation of the sprocket and gear connections to rapidly turn the worm shaft and main cam disk. It is to be understood that the cam disk, when thus initially started into operation, effects the cutting of the buttonhole before causing the jumping forward of the work clamp between cutting and stitching positions.

At'the end of the forward jumping movement the operation is to disengage the clutch S0-83 and to engage the other clutch 6467 to put the stitching shaft into rotation for the purposes of stitching and slow feeding. After the completion of the seam, the

stitching clutch has to be thrown out and the jumping clutch thrown in again, so as to restore the main cam disk and work clamp to initial position. Therefore, although the finger lever controls the original closing of the jumping clutch, the main cam is required to effect its subsequent opening and the closing of the stitching clutch, and after that the opening of the stitching clutch, and the reclosing of the jumping clutch, and finally the throwing ofi' of all power when the parts are finally stopped. A convenient joint clutch control from the cam disk or other driven parts may be as follows:

- The hub or sleeve which carries the dog 96 and e'Xtension 97 is shown in Figs. 3 to 6 as havin a downwardly extending barrel 104, whic contains a sliding pin" 105 having a tendency to rise under the influence of spring 106. At certain times the pin 105 is adapted to enter a socket 107 formed directly in a hub or collar 108, which is fast upon the shaft 73 and is located within the hub of the dog 96, which latter loosely surrounds the collar. Initially the pin is disengaged from the socket, as seen in Fig. 3, but, when the dog 96 with its downward extension 104 are swung to the Fig. 4 position, the pin engages the socket, as shown, thereby locking together the two dogs 96 and 72 and the systerns of levers, etc., connected with them, so that the subsequent cam controlof dog 72, already described, simultaneously controls dog 96.

To disengage the pin 105 from the socket 107 at the), end of all operations a slotted arm 109 is shown surrounding the lower or external part of the pin, this arm, as seen in Fig. 6, being a part of a lever which has a downward extension 110 coiiperatingv with a special cam or surface 111 on the main cam disk 23. At the final stoppageof the machine the cam 111 lifts the lever' end 110 so as to depress the pin 105 and permit both dogs 72 and 96 to become effective .to disengage both of the clutches.

The complete operation of the-mechanism may be substantially as follows: The parts being initially in the Fig. 3 position, both the stitching clutch and the otherclutch are thrown out and the driving pulley 60 is rotating at high speed, but idly, around the stitching shaft 36. The starting of the machine is effected by depressing the finger .lever 99. This retracts thev dog- 96 from the socket 107, thus temporarily locking together or consolidating the elements surrounding the shaft 73, including the dogs 72 and 96.- 8083 with the driving pulley operates through the sprockets and gears and through The rapid rotation of the clutch the clutch 92-95 to rapidly advance the worm shaft 35, thereby turning the main cam disk 23. The cam disk first operates the slit cutter 26 to cut the buttonhole at a point somewhat to the rear of the needle 24, and thereupon elevates the cutter and promptly shifts or jumps forwardly the work support or clamp from the cutting position to the stitching position. During this arm 74 rigid with dog 72. The dropping of the cam pin and-the arm 74 permits the entire clutch dog system to swing about the shaft 73, this movement being efiected by the springs 77 and 98.- This combined dog 1 shifting movement serves to throw the dog 72 outwardly and the dog 96 inwardly to the Fig. 5 position, but it will be very clear from Figs. 4 and 5 that the parts are so deslgned that the dog 96 assumes'its effective position in fr nt of the clutch fingers 84 and 85 prior to the time that the dog 72 passes out from engagement with the clutch fingers 69 and 70. Momentarily, therefore, both clutches are thrown out. This insures that the, jumping feed movement ceases before the stitching shaft and the stitching feed movements are able to commence. The'time is practically negligible, since the parts are rapidly swung under the influence of the springs from the Fig. 4 to the Fig. 5 posi- V tion, but, as stated, the overlapping of operations is prevented.

The dog 96, movin into the path of the clutch fingers, abrupt y throws out and then stops the sprocket system, which becomes completely idle, while the dog 72, retracting from the stitching clutch fingers, permits the clutch spring to assert itself to render the stitching clutch operative, and thereupon the shaft 36 commences rapid rotation with the drivin pulley. This causes the stitching operations to proceed, accompanied by the slow advance of-the main cam 23, preferably in an intermittent fashion, so as'to properly feed the work during stitching. 'This condition of aflairscontinues throughout the stitching of the buttonhole seam. The work is properly guided in a well-known manner, and the stitching devices may be oscillated to carry the seam around the end or ends of the buttonhole. When the end of the seam is reached, the stitching clutch is thrown out and the other clutch thrown-in. This is effected by the cam 76 on the main cam disk, which causes the lifting of the pin 75 from the Fig. 5 position to the Fig. 4 position,

thus throwing the entire clutch dog system over from the Fig. 5 to the Fig. 4 position.

Again we have assurance against overlapping operations in that the dog 72 is brought into position ahead of the clutch fingers 69 and 70 before the dog 96 is retracted from its effective position. Thereby the stitching clutch is first thrown out of action and the rotation of the stitching shaft abruptly stopped, followed immediately by the j umplng clutch asserting itself, it becoming effective to drive the sprockets, gears and worm shaft to turn the main cam disk, thereby shifting the work support back toits ln tial or cuttin position. At the end of this movement t e special cam 111 comes into action to swing the lever 109, and thereby pull down the pin 105. Referring to F1g. 4, it will be seen that this results in unlocklng the dog 96 from the dog 92, so that the sprlng 98 is able to swing the dog 96 inward to the Fig. 3 position, where it takes immediate effect to throw out the clutch and bring the parts to an instant stop.

The described mechanism and operation secure the advantages before recited, and other advantages will be apparent to those skilled in the art. Simplicity, effectiveness, and sure and quick action is attained at all parts of the cycle of operations. The improvement insures that the stitching operation will always begin at the same point in the bot-tonhole, since the work support is invariably brought to exactly the same point when the stitching starts. It insures uniformity in the number of stitches in the buttonhole, and the stitches are invariably led uniformly around the buttonhole. The first or jumping clutch always responds instantly in starting the machine. It is thrown out of action at exactly the right point of time, neither too soon nor too late, so that the jumping movement is bound to cease before the stitching commences. Any ossible overlapping of operations is there y prevented, resulting in avoidance of needle breakage. The same advantage results from the accurate and invariable throwing out of the stitching clutch at the proper point and always prior to the throwing in of the umping clutch for the final shifting movement of the work, thus again obviating needle breakage.

While the clutch devices 4448 and 92-95 by which the feed shaft 35 is advanced are mere one-way clutches or transmitters of forward motion, the devices 6471 and 8085 are more. than this, each being a clutch-and-stop, capable of being actually disengaged when the connections driven byit are to be stopped. Thus, when the cluteh-and-stop 6471 is opened, it also stops the stitch shaft 36 with the needle out of the work. The entire machine may be summed up in detail as combining a controller, namely, the disk. 23 from which the feed is effected, buttonhole cutting mechasaid first clutch-and-stop, connections 8848 operate the second clutch-and-stop for causing the quicker actuation of the controller from said shaft includin a one-way drive clutch for advancing sa d controller at a speed to cause suitable feed during stitching, a second clutch-and-stop 80--85 actuated tonhole cutting mechanism controlled from sa 1dcontroller, stitching mechanism, a stltchmg shaft from which the stitching mechanism is driven, a belt pulley loose on said shaft, a first clutch-and-stop between the pulley and shaft adapted when operated to stop said shaft in position with the needle out of the Work, a first dog for operating said first clutch-and-stop, connections from said shaft including a one-way drive clutch for advancing said controller at. a speed to cause suitable feed during stitching, a secondclutch-and-stop actuated from said pulley, a second dog 96 for oper-\ from said pulley, a second dog for operatating the second clutch-and-stop, connections 86-95 from said second clutch-and-stop including a one-way drive clutch for advancing said controller at a quicker speed, a starting means 99-103 for adjusting at will the second dog from operative position to and thereby the cuttin 0f the bottonhole and quicker feed of wor automatic connections actuated from the controller for thereafter restoring the second dog to operative position and immediately adjustlng the first dog from operative position to operate the first clutch-and-stop for causing stitching accompanied by the slower actuation of the controller, and for thereafter at'the completion of the buttonhole reversing both dog positions toterminate the stitching and restore the quicker feed of the work, and finally again restoring the second dog to operative position to bring the machine to rest, said controller actuated connections including a device 104 108 for detachably latching together said first and second dogs in such relation that each clutch-and-stop must discontinue driving before the other drives.

The two dogs or members 7 2, 96, for opening or closing the clutch-and-stop devices, being interconnected and related in action, constitute a duplex clutch governing means, such that when one clutch is driving the throw-in of the other throws out the former, whereby th'e'drive by each must cease as or before the other takes effect when changing speeds, all under the timing control by the cam disk 23 and at the end the dogsare so shifted that neither clutch drives, and the machine is totally stopped.

Since many matters of mere arrangement, design, combination, and detail may be variously modified without departing from the novel principles'involved in the present improvement, it is not intended to restrict the invention to such features excepting in so far as set forth in the appended claims.

What is claimed is:

1. A buttonhole. stitching and cutting machine, including in combination, a controller from which the feed is effected, butdog ing the second clutch-and-stop, connections from sald second clutch-andstop including a one-way drive clutch for advancing said controllerv at a quicker speed, a starting means for adJusting at will the second dog from operative position to operate the second clutch-and-stop for causing the quicker actuation of the controller and thereby the cutting of the buttonhole and quicker feed of work, automatic connections actuated from, the controller for thereafter restoring the second dog to operative position and immediately adjusting the first dog from operative position to operate the first clutch-and-stop for causing stitching accompanied by the slower actuation of the controller, and for thereafter at the completion of the button-hole reversing 'both dog positions to terminate the stitching and restore the quicker feed of the work, and finally again restorin the second chine to rest, said controller actuated connections including a devicefor detachably latching together said first and second dogs in such relation that each clutch-and-stop must discontinue driving before the otherand a controller automatically controlling said clutches to pass from one to the other and to throwoff power at the stopping point.

machine, including in combination, a feed means for shifting the work, a constantly rotating power pulley, a first clutch and connections from said pulley for driving the feed'means at suitable speed for stitching, a second clutch and connections from to operative position to bring the ma anism actuated through the second clutch,

- 8 A buttonhole stitching and cutting said pulley for driving the feed means at a ing, a second clutch and connections from said pulley for driving the feed means at a faster speed between stitching and cutting operations, stitching mechanism actuated through the first clutch, cutting mechanism actuated through the second clutch, and a controller automatically timing said clutches whereby the first clutch is unclutched and the stitching mechanism brought to a stop with the needle out of the work before the second clutch becomes effective.

5. A buttonhole stitching and cutting machine, including in combination, apowcr driven rotator mounted in sale machine, a

feed member, a work holder, connections whereby the feed member causes relative feed movements between the work holder and stitching means, along one route during saitching and along a different route when drive by each must cease as or before the other takes effect when changing speeds.

6. A buttonhole stitching and cutting machine, including in combination a power driven rotator mounted in said machine, a feed member, a work holder, connections whereby the feed member causes relative feed movements between the Work holder and stitching means, along one route-during stitching and along a diflerent route when shifting between stitching and cutting operations, a first clutclrand-stop device actuated from said rotator for driving the feed member at suitable speed for stitching,'a second clutch-and-stop device tuated from said rotator for driving the reed member at a faster speed between stitc' .ng and cutting operations, stitching means actuated through the first device, cutting means actuated through the second device, and a whereby the feed member causes relative feed movements between the work holder and stitching means, along one route during stitching and along a different route when shifting between stitching and cutting operations, a first clutch-and-stop device actuated from sai rotator for driving the -feed member-at suitable speed for stitching, a second clutc -and-stop device actuated from said rotator for driving the feed member at a faster speed between stitching and cutting operations, stitching means actuated through the first device,- cutting means actuated through the second device, cooperatin clutch dogs, one for each device, both actua 1e from a single controller and such controller for said dog.

8. A buttonhole stitchin and cutting machine, including in com ination, a feed member, a first clutch-and-stop device for driving the feed member at suitable speed for stitching, a second clutch-and-stop device for driving the feed member at a faster speed between stitching and cutting operations, stitching means actuated through the first device, cutting means actuated through the second device, and cooperatin' clutch dogs, one latchable to and unlatcha le from the other, a latch means therefor, and automatic control means for actuating one dog and the latch means.

9. A buttonhole stitching and cutting mafeed movements between the'work' holder and stitching means, along one route during stitching and along a different route when shifting between stitching and cutting operations, a first clutch-and-stop device actuated from said rotator for driving the feed member at suitable speed for stitching. a second clutch-and-stop device actuated from said rotator for driving the feed member at a faster speed 'between stitching and cutting operations, stitching means actuated through the first device, cutting means actuated through the second device, and coiiperating clutch dogs, one for each device, both actuable from a single controller, and timed so that one is unclutched and stopped before the other takes eflect.

10. Abuttonhole stitching and cutting machine, includin in combination, a first clutch-and-stop device for stitching and feeding, a second clutch and stop device for cutting and quick feeding, a first retractable dog normally holding the first device unclutched and stopped, a second retractable dog normally holding the second device unclutched and stopped, a spring for holding one dog in position and a means operated at will for retracting it to start the machine, means for holding such dog in retracted position latched to the other dog, automatic means for retracting the latter dog and thereby restoring the former to position and subsequently restoring the latter and thereby retracting the former, and automatic means for unlatching the former dog to permit the' spring to restore it to position.

11. A buttonhole stitching and cutting machine, including in combination, a stitchlng shaft, a driving pulley concentric therewith, a duplex clutch device associated with said pulley, a clutch dog retractable to clutch the pulley and shaft, and restorable to unclutch and stop the shaft, slow feeding connections from the shaft, a second clutch dog retractable to, clutch the pulley for causing cutting and quick feeding, and restorable to unclutch the same, said dogs'being interconnectible for harmonious cooperation.

12. A buttonhole stitchmg and cutting machine, including in combination, a stitching shaft, a driving pulley concentric therewith, a duplex clutch device associated with said pulley, a clutch do'g retractableto clutch the pulley and shaft and restorable to unclutch and stop the shaft, slow feedin connections from the shaft, a second clutc dog retractable to clutch the pulley for causing cutting and quick feeding, and restorable to unclutch the same, said dogs being interconnectible for harmonious cotiperation and adapted to disconnection for unclutching both clutches.

13. A buttonhole stitching and cutting machine, including in combination, a feed member, a stitching shaft, connections from the stitching shaft for intermittently advancing the feed member at suitable speed for stitching, a device for unclutching and stopping the stitching shaft, and power con nections operable when the stitching shaft is idle for advancing said feed member at fast speed, including a one-way driving clutch capable of-advancing the feed member and of preventing back movement thereof during the aforementioned step-by-step feed.

14. A buttonhole stitching and cutting machine including in combination a power driven rotator mounted in said machine, a work holder, means for causing relative feed movements as between the Work holder and stitching means along one route during stitching and along a difierent route when shifting between stitchin and cutting operations, a first clutch-an -stop device actuated from said rotator for driving the feed means at suitable speed for stitching, a second clutch-and-stop device actuated from said rotator for drlving the feed means at a faster speed between stitching and cutting operations, stitching means actuated through the first device, cutting mechanism actuated through the second clutch-and-stop device, and a controller automatically controlling said two devices to pass from one to the other and to throw oif power at the stopping oint.

In testimony whereof, I have aflixed my signature hereto.

FRANK ZALESKI.

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