US1307232A - Jean barody - Google Patents

Description

I. BAROI JY. GUIDING AND CONTROLLING INSTRUMENT FOR CUTTING CLOTHES. APPLICATION FILED JULY 3, I915.

1,30%g32; Patented June 17, 1919.

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JEAN BARODY, OF CONSTANTINE, ALGERIA.

GUIDING AND CONTROLLING INSTRUMENT FOR CUTTING CLOTHES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented June 17, 1919.

Application filed July 3, 1915. Serial No. 37,914.

To all whom it may concern:

Beit known that I, J EAN Bnnoox, a citizen of the Republic of France, residing at Constantine, Algeria, master tailor, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Guiding and Controlling Instruments for Cutting Clothes, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in tailors pattern drafting instruments, and it consists in the constructions, combinations, and arrangements herein described and claimed.

An object of my invention is to provide a tailors drafting instrument which is so constructed with the inclusion of transparent panels and suitable scales, that a garment may be laid out with a cutting outline, from previously prepared data showing the principal controlling points in the anatomy of a person.

Another object of the invention is to provide a device as described, consisting principally of a plurality of transparent graduated hinged panels, these panels being so made that they can be seen through to enable the fixing of certain points on a garment by the aid of the graduations.

Other objects and advantages will appear in the following specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawing, in which:

' Figure 1 is a plan view of the device showing the transparent table with the hinged sections.

Fig. 2 is a cross section on the line 22 of Fig. 1, and

Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic view showing how the lines of'a garment are reproduced.

In carrying out my invention, I provide a table constructed substantially as shown in Fig. 1, consisting of six rectangular panels or sections, a, b, 0, d, e, and 7. Of these panels, a, b, and 0, are the largest, while cl, 6, and f, are the smallest. The three largest panels are hinged together as shown, and the smallest panels are hinged upon the respective ones of the larger panels, the hinges in all instances being indicated g. The arrangement thus provided, permits the entire table to be closed into an area substantially that of the central panel 6.

It is to be observed that in mentioning three of the principal points whereby the cutting outline of the garment is obtained, it is simply desired to illustrate the manner of proceeding. In actual practice there will be enough of these controlling points to enable the correct laying out of the cutting lines. It is also to be observed that the loca tion of the axial lines it and z' both on the instrument and on the garment, is a matter that is subject to some variation because obviously, one style of garment may require the location of the axial lines in different places than they are shown in Fig. 8. The drawing is intended simply to illustrate one instance and actual practice will determine the true locations of the axial lines as will be obvious without further explanation.

The panels of the table are made of some suitable transparent material as for instance, celluloid. Horizontal and vertical axial lines it and respectively, are scored upon the table substantially as shown in Fig. 1. The axial line h may be located nearer the lower guide and consequently nearer to the center of the device, if necessary. One of the end edges of the table is graduated at The graduations 9' indicate the ordinates of the horizontal axis 71..

U-shaped guides 71: are fixed upon the horizontal marginal edges of the panel a, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. The guides 70 are graduated at Z. These graduations indicate the abscissas of the vertical axis 2'. The graduations Z begin with the lowest numbers at the left on both of the scales is and are intended to aid in correctly placing a air of plates m, n in laying out a garment.

The plates m and a slide over the panel a in the grooves provided by the guides k. The plate m is narrower than the plate a. These plates may be transposed if it be desirable to do so. Both plates are graduated at 0 to coincide with the ordinates of the axis h. Theya're also graduated'at p to coincide with the abscissas of the vertical axis 2'. Both plates are made of transparent material so that a garment placed beneath the devicefis visible to the operator.

The horizontal axis h is graduated similarly as are the guides in, this being done merely for convenience in obtaining the positions of certain parts on the ordinates of the axis. Graduated lines Q are scored on the panel b. A line 1" is scored on the panel a parallel to the axis '5, and disposed near the center of the panel. The extremity of the line 1 coincides with the pole 8 located on the panel Z). A plurality of lines If radiate from the pole s. In the present instance only four of these lines are shown, although in actual practice there Will be many of these lines which Will also be numbered for convenience in carrying out the operations by the use of the device. The various lines just described are referred to simply to acquaint the reader with the locations thereof on the measuring instrument. In actual practice, these various lines will be far more elaborate in arrangement, since the various operations of drafting a garment, will require a complete system of gage lines. As stated before, it is not believed essential to the understanding of the invention, to fully illustrate and describe all of the gage lines, since the matter of their location is largely one of future determination. The panels (Z, c, and f, also have scored lines and graduated portions. All of the lines and graduated portions illustrated in Fig. l are intended to assist in locating certain points upon a garment, when the device is superposed thereon in a manner, to be explained. In order that the operation of the device may be more readily understood, attention is directed to Fig. 3. Here is shown a portion of a mans coat on Which the axes h and 2' are reproducedv for convenience in placing the instrument, by means of threads which are basted into the garment. These remain until all operations upon the garment are completed, When they -are taken out. These threads act as construction lines. I

The illustration in Fig. 3 shows a garment designed by the aid of a drafting instrument herein described. The cutting outline is produced by the aid of the scales on the panels. The transparent table is laid upon the garment spread out flat upon a table, the axes 7L and i of the instrument coinciding With the axes h and 2' temporarily fixed in the garment by means of the threads just described. It is noW that the graduations on the transparenttable, and the transparency of the table itself are utilized. The principal controlling oints of the garment Which coincidewith the principal points in the anatomy of a person, are noted on the garment from the two axes of the instrument by means of a previously prepared chart. Incidentally it may be explained that the preparation of this chart has no direct bearing onthe invention, it being suflicient to say that all of the principal points of the garment are noted on the chart and transferred to the garment by reading them off in reference to the scales of the instrument.

The garment laid out by marking a number of principal points thereon and then connecting the points With lines to obtain the outline on which to cut. The first principal point occurs at 1 at the intersection of the axes h and Other principal points 0 11 0 etc., are obtained by the same method of transference. The principal object of the instrument is to enable the transference of certain cut controlling points to a garment, from a suitable register as a previously prepared chart. To aid in this, the panels of the instrument are made transparent and have suitablyarranged scales to enable the fixingof the points. I

Vllhile the construction and arrangei'nent of the device as illustrated in the accompanying drawings is that of a generally preferred form, obviously modifications and changes may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention or the scope of the claim.

I claim:

In a tailors drafting instrument, a table comprising a plurality of transparent panels having graduations inscribed thereon, guides onthe marginal edges of one of the panels, slidable plates supported in the guides and movable across the surface of said panel, and hinges joining certain of the panels to,- gether. v

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my invention I have signed my name in presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

JEAN BARODY.

WVitnesses DEAN M. Mason, RoLIN M. AMEZIANZ.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, I). G.

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