US1393730A - Shoe and process of making the same - Google Patents

Description

J. F. TEEHAN.

SHOE AND PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAME.

APPLICATION FILED APR.12.1920.V

'19593;230, mm@ im. n, 1921.

2 SHEETSSHEET l.

J. F. TEEHAN.

SHOE AND PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAME.

APPLICATION EILED APR. i2, 1920* 1,393,730. laten'a Osa M9 1% L 2 SHEETS#SHEET Z.

qu., l

SHQE ANI) :FH/SCEES F MAKNG THE Application ileil April 3.2, 1929.

To all yzii/ifm?, may @0n/:ern: o

Be it known ehal; l, JoHN Tnnrran, a citizen of l@he ilnilefl States, reeiiling ai. Brei-.krom in the county of Plymouth and State of' Massachusetts, here invented new and useful improvements in Shoes and Processes of lllalring the Sammel' which elle following is a specification.

The object of the'present invention is to produce a flexible and conifere-able shoe and also an improve-Ll innereole for use therein. as Well the method or inanufaeruring the same.

ln accordance willi the )prosegui invention, the innersole is formed with a continuous ril) or lip erlenrling from the heel end, on one eide en'irely around the forepart or 'ehe shoe to izhe hee end on lle other side, to which a continuous or uninterrupted well', may be nrt shed in elle ueuel wells-sewing or inse-ain operation, the innersoie itself being split so as to provide two layers er members at the shank el lshe Shoe, as a result of which the shoe 'is highly erihle al; the shank. ln preparing fhe' innersole, which is made of leather or an equivnlen i'na'terial, l preferably ,first form and turn Athe rib or lip which 'follows the contour of the sole around the shank and forepart, and then, by a suie-able instrumenelity., the sole is Split, preferably in plane al; the base of the rihheo hat, While the innersole is illus formed into two layers, the rib on the upper layer is integrfri with and e continuation of the rilJ on the unsplit portion o1"- the innersole. A very decided advantage ie secured by this pro-- cedure, when the welt and upper are Sewell to lille innersole, Since the rentranl; :ingle or eornerformecl by the rib and the upper face or' the solo, which is engaged by the guide or' lie welle-sewing machine, is oontinuous, uninterrupted and unobstructed, and the Shoe can he fed smoothly in rela'ion to Sewing mechanism in forming the inn seam 'from heel to heel of the shoe. The innersole may he split 'from either end, so as to form the wo inlegrally connected. 121.3@ ers ai; the shank, between the heel andthe i'oreparc of the Sole, but for usual purposes it is preferable to split the innersole from ithe heel end. ylfhe two layers of the inner 'Sole are preferably permanently connes ed lgogether at the heel enel of l@he shoe when fthe 'shoe is finished. This may he accomplished by Securing the heel ends of lie layn Specification of Leters Patent.

Farfenleil (let. il, i921..

Serai No. 373,073.

ers together by suiahle faetening means 'oe fore the innereole is secured to the upper and the welt by 'die inseaining operaion, or, if desired, the Saul ende may he Secured together by the tacks and. the heel nails in Sen-.urineT the upper and heel to the shoe al; he heel ciul thereof.

Obviously the entire under Jface of the i11- nereole may be reinforced with a layer olf eitile material from loe to heel7 llie margin of which is upluu'ned in the channeling operation to form a part olf the rip-turned rib or lip. This is sometimes desirable Where the innersolo ie formed of relatively soft or spongy leather or of leaherboard.

When the shoe is completely formeel, the shank of the innersole consists of two seperate layers or members integrally connected. at one or bolli ende, but capable of separan tion in the act of flexing the Shoe, eo thee the shoe itself ie very flexible at the shank, the upper layer curving; upwardly between ies ends and hearingagainst the arch of the loot. Since ther iea relative mmemeni of the uwe layers or members o lle innereole, when the Vweffwer of the shoe is in the act of Walking, end consequently there may be a tendency el' the shoe to squeak, suoli equeaking may he obvia'erl by placing a layer of fibrous or other Suitable material between the shank members. lzfor a piece of thin canvas or oher cloth may oe oonneeerl *ro ne inner :face of one of lie members.

Figure l shows a channeled innersole with the lip er rib turned.

Figs. 2 and 3 represent sections through rhe Same on. he lines-2--2 and 3-3, of Fig. l'. l

Fig. l is a plan View! of lie innersole ee. split from the heel end.

Fig. 5 represents section on the line 5--5 of Fig'.

Fig., G ropreeen'e a longieulinal Seeion t'lxrough the inner-sole aifer the inner fece of the rib-carrying Shank member has been covered Wih a fabric layer.

Fig. 7 represente a section on the line 7e-7 of Fig. 6.

lil@

u II Fig. 8 represente a partially termed shoe,

Hill

L ii-ii or. Fig. 9.

ln preparing the innersole, indicated as a Whole at 20, l use some suitable stoclr such as leather, leather-board, or their equivalent,

which is capable of'being split, and may, if

desired, cover the upper tace thereofyvith a sheet 2l of fabric cemented in place. lior this purpose, a Lfrictioned7 fabric may be employed. Then, by a channeling; machine of suitable. design, a channel 23 is formed in the side edge ot the sole, and a lip or rib 22 is upturned, :from the 'point a at the heel end entirely around the shank and torepart to the point b at the heel end, as shown in Fig'. 2. '.1'

Then, by `a splitting machine, e. y. one having a band lrni'lfe, the innersole is split from the extremity of the heel end, through the shanlcto a transverse line c-c substanl tially coinciding with the break of the shoe, or slightly, beyond what might be termed the toe end oit the shank. This operation divides the heel and shank portion oi the innersolc into tvfo members 25, 26, which are integrally connected at their ttoru l Ward ends, the plane ot' division being co incident With the plane oi the face ot' the leather- 2-1: or at the base ot the' rib or lip. As a result,the rib or lip 22 is stormed par tially on the unsplit torepart and partially on the shank member 26, and constitutes,

it were, the upturned marginal edge oit the said shank member.

lf desired, the member 26 may be folded over the forepart of the innersole, and the inner face of the memberv 25- at the shank covered with a suitable material to prevent squeakingv when the members 25 and 26 are moved in Jrictional engagement. 27 of frictioned fabric may be employed, or any other suitable substance such as celluloid, sodium silicate or the like may be used.

1When the upper and the welt 29are inseamed to the rib or lip 22as shown in Figs. 10 and 1i, the Welt extends uninterruptedly from the heel on one side or" the innersole, around the shank and forepart to the heel on the other side. a cross section taken at the" inside of the shank, the welt and the upper are stitched to the rib or lip 22 on the 'shank member 26,

leavinoa the other shank member 25 unat- -any event, however, when the upper is lasted over the Jlace of the innersole at the heel end and is Secured-in place by tacks or other A piece ln Fig. 11, which Shows fastenings 30, the heel ends of the shank members are permanently secured together. And, innailing on the heel, the heel-attaching` nails may be caused to penetrate the two members 25 and 26. But I should not regard it as a departure from the invention it. the heel end oi the member 25 were left loose and unattached. l l

lWhen the shoe is linished and is flexed by the foot of the wearer, in the act of Walking, as shown-in Fig. 9,*the member 25 bends upwardly between its ends and .separates from the member 26, thereby rendering the shoe very much.- more flexible at the shank than would be the case .were the innersole solid and unsplit at the shank.

By reason o'tf the construction herein dev scribed, rind that the shearing action on the stitches at the juncture of the shank and forepart is materially reduced.

As already stated, in performing' the'welb ing or inseam operation, the guide extends into the corner or angle formed by the lip and the face of the innersole, and this corner extends without obstruction to the guide, from one end to the other, from heel to heel around the shank land orepart.

While l have described thev process as consistingl` of certa-in steps in Sequence, it Will be apparentthat the splitting operation een follow the cl'iauneling operation and precede' the turning: of the lip, this depending on the will ot the operator. ln fact, the sequence ot' steps may be otherwise altered, if desired, and the splitting' operation may precede the channeling; and lip-turning operations. In any such case, it is desirable for some purposes that the channeling knifev and the' splitting' knife shall operate in the same plane. though this is not essential, vfor other purposes.

Having;f thus explained the nature of my said invention and described a Way of constructing and usingr the same, although without attempting to set forth all ot the forms in which it may be made or ,all of the modes of its use, what l claim is :A

l. A welt shoe having an innersole provided with a continuous rib extending around the shank and the forepart from heel to heel, and an upper and a. Welt stitched to said rib, said innersole being,l split at the shank to provide two relatively movable integrally connected layersfor members.

2. A welt shoe comprising an innersole. having a rib extending around the shank and forepart from heel to heel, and an up per and a Welt stitched to said rilJ from end to end thereof, said innersole being split at its shank into two integrally connected `me`mbers, the plane of divisionbeing ap proximately coincident with the plane/of the juncture/of the rib and the feather .of

the insole. i

3. As a new article of manufacture, an in-a

Images