US1383694A - Collar - Google Patents

Description

J. B. BOLTON.

COLLAR.' APPLICATION HLED FEB. 26. 1914. RENEWED ocT.29,1919.

Pateted July 5, 1921. I

2 SHEETS-SHEET I //v VE/v rol? l 490/2220 A TTOH/VEYS L. B. BOLTON.

COLLAR. y APPLICATION FILED FEB. 26.11914. RENEWED OCT. 29,1919.

Patented Jny 192i.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

/iml I M@ I L Llrl .E

JOHN BLAHESLY BOLTON, OF METHUHN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOH TO JOHN iiiANNINcI VAN m'USEMjOF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

COLLAR.

Specication of Letters Patent. Patented ully 5, 1921 Application led February 26, 1914, Serial No. 821,351. Renewed October 29, 1919. Serial No. 334,37

T o all whom t may cof/warn.' j

Be it known that I, JOHN B. BOLTON, a citizen of the United States, residing at Methuen, county of Essex, State of Massachusetts, have'invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Collars; and I do herebyl declare the .following to be -a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art-to which it appertains to make and luse th esame.

In an application for'Letters Patent of the United States, filed of even date here-v with Serial No. 821,350, I have described and claimed a collar suicientlysti to maintain its upright shapewithout the employment of starch and nevertheless sufficiently pliable, by reason of the introduction of reinforcing threads in the fabric to receive and maintain a curvilinear set vappropriate to the wearers use.

The present invention comprises a modification ofthe structure shown in my said application, and is illustrated inthe accompanying drawings, as applied to a collar of the turn-over type, for which use it is particularly adapted.

In the drawings,- i

Figure represents a collar of the turnover type embodying the present invention;

Fig.l 2 represents, in plan, a fragmentary view of a portionof the multiple ply interwoven fabric from which the collar is made,1

said view being-on `alarger scale than Fig. 1 Fig. 5 represents a cross-sectional yiew of 'fa portion of the same fabric, showing it folded along the intended upper edge of the collar; y A

Fig. 4 represents a strip offabric made up of a series ofblanks woven 1n a continuous length and adapted to be subsequently severed and to be then fashioned into individual collars 5" Fig. ia is a longitudinal section taken' along the line 4in- 4a of Fig. t showing the non-interwoven portions of the blanks; p

Figs. 5 and 6 represent, respectively, the preferred manner of forming the collar from the individual blank in such manner that one of the layers of the composite fabric shall furnish a binding edge for the free ends of the collar.

Fig. 7 is an enlarged' view showing one form of interweaving of the multiply fabric.

Referring to the drawings, c indicates the intended outerelayer .of woven fabric (for instance, of cotton lor'linen), d the intermediate reinforce and e the innermost layer. The layers d and e are likewise intended to be woven from cotton or linen, all three fabricsbeingof the usual quality familiar to the art,'eXcept that the reinforce layer,

which is preferably the intermediate one,

.- the diameter of the wire and its spun coat ing not exceeding usually, more than once or twice the gagev of the cotton or'linen thread from which the fabric d is woven.

. The copper wire with its spun coating is of the kind frequently employed in the construction of the insulated conductors of galvanometer coils and the like, and is of such softness and purity as to be susceptible of exure without tending to break. W hen in- -terwoven in the fabric, it is invisible in the completedarticle, and the'composite fabric may be scrubbed and washed, mangled, and the. like, without taking any special precautions to avoid injury to the reinforce. rIhe number of the copper wires employed will vary somewhat with the choice vof the manufacturer but will, in general, be in about the ratio of 20 to 500 of the cotton threads when cotton constitutes the remainder of the fabric layer.

It will be noted that the intermediate layer (iis of only half the width ofthe fabric, in the form illustrated in the drawings. The function ofv thus limiting` its width is to permit the fold of the fabric, corresponding to the upper edge w of the collar (see Figs. 1 and 3) to consist of the two outer soft layers c and e, thereby diminishing the vthickness vof the collar along this line of fold and therefore lessening the frictional eect of the rollers of the mangle when the collar is being washed and laundried. The

Ifabric, asa whole, that isvto say, the three layers thereof are preferably woven in a single operation upon `an appropriate loom,

' and the longitudinal'threads of the several layers are caught into the adjacent member of the series, so as to connect them together into a multiple ply interwoven fabric and avoid wrinkling, `for example, as illustrated in Fig. 7. Between the points indicated by the lines a-a of Fig. 4f, each of the individual blanks of the woven strip shown therein are narrowed on the loom toward the center, so as to conform to the prevailing style of the turn-over collars, in this respect, although it `will lbe understood that this conformation of the blank may be altered within wide limits to conform to variations in configuration as they may be determined by the choice of the manufacturer and the requirements of the trade. n .order to provide for protecting the otherwise raw edges of the freeends of the collar, the' buttonhole tabs of the several layers are not interwoven but remain separate from the intermediate layer of the fabric in the weaving operation, as indicated in Fig. 4a; so that when-the blank is cuiJ "to the configuration shown in Fig. 5, the cut edges of oneof the outside fabrics,k maybe folded reversely and stitched as shown at 7' in Fig. 6,' and so that the other outer fabric may be similarly reversed in the opposite directionand likewise sewed,y as shown at a in said Fig. 6, thereby adding to the acceptable appearance ofthe completed article.

"While,y as hereinbefore described, the reinforcing layer may be provided with softv copper reinforcing threads," these threads may be, in some instances omitted, provided thatthe yreinforcing layer is of such a char-` acter as to allow the collar asta whole toK take on a permanent set when bent to collar form, which is the main purpose and intent of the invention. This functioncan be attained, in some instances, by so close a weave of the composite fabric and such an interweave of the individual 'layers thereof that the necessity of employing threads of a kind corresponding tothe soft copper wires may be avoided. i

What claim is y y l. A shirt collar, made up of a composite fabric comprising an inner and an outer layer together with an intermediate reinforce, said inner and outer layers and said reinforce being interwoven and inherently capable, in an unstarched condition, of tak-` ing and maintaining a curvilinear set.

2. A folding shirt collar, made up of a composite fabric comprising an inner andan outer layer with an. intermediate reinforce, said reinforce being provided with threads interwoven therewith and-inherently capable in an unstarched condition of rew ceiving and maintaining a curvilinear set,

said reinforce extending upwardly tothe fabric made up of an inner and anouter.

layer of woven fiber of the entire width of the collar and an intermediate reinforcing' layer of half the width of the collar, vsaid reinforcing layer being provided with liongitudinal threads of soft metal capable of taking and maintaining a' curvilinear set, the folded'edge of the collarbeing constituted by the two outer layers.

, 4. A shirt collar made up of a composite fabric, comprising an inner` and-an outer layer of fabric,A and an intermediate rein.

forcing layer,.said several layers being interwoven, so as to avoid wrinkling when folded, and the reinforcing layer being provided with pliable longitudinal threads of amaterial inherently capable. in an `unstarched con- 4 dition of taking and maintaining a curvilinear set, the outer layers being continued beyond' the intermediate layer at the free ends of thecollar and being reversely bentl l and sewed` so as to bind said free ends. l5. A. folding shirt collar, made up of a composite fabric comprising an inner and an outerlaye'r with an intermediate reinforce',

said several layers being interwoven and inherently capable, as' a whole, ink an unstarched condition of receiving and maintaining a curvilinear'set, said reinforce eX- tending upwardly tothe folded edge of the collar.

6. Afolding collar, madeup of a neck i band portion and a folding portion woven integral therewith of multiple ply -interwoven fabric, the neck band being woven ,thicker and stier than the foldingportion,

"and the collar folding along theedge of said neck band. n

'7. Ar folding collar, Jmade up of a neck band portion and a folding portion woven integral therewith of multiple ply. interwoven fabric, one of said portions being of Q-ply interwoven fabric, and the other portion having a third layer-A of fabric interwoven therewith to `form a thickerand stiffer portion, and ythe collar folding along the edge of /said thicker portion. J l

8. A folding collar, madeup of a neckband. portion anda folding portion, the. neckband portion being `of 'multiple-,ply interwoven fabric and having an integral thin extensiony forming the fold portion of the collar.

9A. folding collar, made up of Ya neckband portion and a folding'porti'on woven integral therewith, the folding portion be,

ing of multiple-ply interwoven fabricand the neckband comprising a lthicker portion of the fabric than the folding portion.

ln testimony whereof lf aix my signature, in presence of two witnesses.

Jenn .erinnert Borrow' lFlitnesses: i

HERBERT Glenna,

WALTER Barns FARB.

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