US1221154A - Shoe and method of making the same. - Google Patents

Description

M.L. DODGE.

. sHoE AND METHOD or MAKING THE :.AME.

APPLICATION FILED NOV.'5| 1916.

' Patented Apr. 3, 1917.

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1o` therein. It is customary tense separate ele HILTON L. DODGE, or iinwnuaroa'r, MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE .AND M'IHOI) 0F MAKING THE SAJZIE.

Specication o1' Letters patent.

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Application filed November 6, 1916. Serial No. 129, 59;

To all 'whom it may concern: Be it known that I, MiL'roN L. Dones, a

`citire'n of the United States, and resident of' .N'ewburgfport, in the county of Essex and State'o Massachusetts, have invented cer tain new and useful Improvements in Shoes andV Methods of Making the Same, of which` the following is a specification.

This invention relates to shoes, and par ticularly to the stilfening members used,

ments for stilening the counter portion and shank portion of a-shoe, but my prent in `venti'on contemplates a counterl stifiener which, if long enough, will materially reinforce theshank of the sole without the use of. a special shank stifener. However, a

l special shank stiifener mayl also be used if it 4is desired to stillen the Shank to a greater deree than that possible with the counter' sti ener alone.

The characteristic feature ofthe counter stillener' fis that portions of' `its heeiseat flange-are lapped, one over the other, In order. toutilxze the lapped' crticns of the fia' e to s tiilen the sole, I` asten them dir y tothe sole by fastening means anchored inthe latter. If the lapped portionsA extend a considerable distance in front ofv thefbreast of the heel and are anchored directly to the shank portion of the sole, the

ilatteris stilened'to 'such degree that. seine shoes' woi1ld `not require any additional shank-Sti'llening means` However, it is Apos are fastenedw sible'to 'utilize a special shank stilener in conjunction' with thelapped portions of such flange, and the drawings show a shoe .in which' both stiiieners are incorporated.

.A defect that is found in the majority of shoes is that the forward extremities of the. counter stiilener spread one from an# "other-and enable the` shank portion of the upperto bulge, the result being an inferior fitting and unsightly shoe. This defect ex 'lists to a greater ydegree'n low shoes than in high shoes, and is particularly diicult to overcome in low shoes. A shoe made in accordanoe with my .present inventio would forward portions ofthe'counter tif A' i arranged iii.

As far as he 'fundamental principle of `the invention isponcerned, thefyfastening ofrtlle forward pportionslpf Itho counter stifhr one to @j :anchorini of such `the counter stiften: ar.

Qesired relation which' they portions to the shank portion of the sole, are

capable of being performed in turn vshoes and in shoes that are not turned, such as Welt shoes and McKay' shoes, l have illustrated a turn shoe in. the process of being matie 'accordin to this invention. my copending app ication, Serial No. 116,331, filed August 252-, 1916, Ihave disclosed. a method of making turn shoes in which the forward extremitifs'of a counter stiifener are anchored directly tothe sole of'a turned shoe In that oase the i'iaigeof the counter stiilener not lapped, and the'dorward por" tions are anchored to the sole seperately, so that the ange doos not afford sfgreat e shanlrstiffening effect as it does according to the present invention, in which the ilangeof the counter stiii'enor is lapped where it V:mehoredto the soie.

If an additional shank stiiener is used it may extend to the heel end of the .counter stilfener, and its heeLseatport-ion may have an outline thatconiorins substantially to the crease that defines ",he junction between the heel-seat Harige and upstanding yortion of l The shan: stiener would lloe arranged. tolle between the foot and the flange of the counter stiilener, so that it would provi ile a smoother tread surface for the foot than would ne the case if it were omitted. {.he shank stiifeuer may' extend further for Ward than the counter stillen/er.

0f* the aceompa nyius; drawings, which illustrate the presert invention as embodied. :in a turn shoe and in awelt shoei Figure l represents a top plan View of a shoe that has been lasted and sewn Wrong side out, and to tire sole ot which have been secured a *counterl stiener and a shank stiffener. According to the condition of the shoe the latter 4is ready to he 'turned right side out.

Fig. 2 represents a verticalcross section Fig. 3 represents a longitudinal sectiolr hrough. that portion of theshoe intersected ig. 1-, omitting the jack or' Fig. 4 represents vertical Vcross section through the heelkportien of the shoeafter ico gure includin a .oe

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the latter has been turned, replaced upon the --last, and provided with the u sual heells'eat 'nails Fig. represents afvertical cross section through that portion of the turned shoe correspondin to line 2-2 of Fig. 1 theshoe being in t e same condition as-m ig. 4.

Fig. 'represents a vertical cross sectionI teneil extending therethrough.

' the vlining Fig. 7 represents a side elevationo'f a finished shoe made in accordance with this invention the shank ortion of the sole being stillened by the ap d forward ends of the counter stiil'ener an 'by an additional stiifening member, which are fastenedv directly 'to the sole in front ofthe breast of the heel.

The same reference characters indicate the same parts wherever they occur.

The sole, u per, lining and inseam stitches are indicat at'10, 11, 12 and 13 respectively. The 'shoe according to Fig. 1 has been lasted Wrong side out, and the lining is outside the upper. In the present instance the stitches 13 extend around the heel-seat portion of the shoe, under the counter still"- enerand the pulledover marginal portion of the upperis secured to the sole by such stitches. .The lining, throughout the shank portion and forepart, isv also secured by the stitches 13, but the counter ortion 12 of is left free, so't at it may be tucked into the counter stilfene'r after the shoe'has been turned, all of which is in accordance with the method disclosed in my aforesaid vcopending application. In order to leave the counter portion 12 of the lining free such. ortion is snipped transversely, as indicated) at 12", 12", at pointsqin line with the extremities of the counter still'ener.-

The counter stiiener is indicated at 14, and its heel-seat flange is indicated at 15. The forward portions of said flange are relatively wide 'and areL arra ed in lapped relation', as shown best by ig. 2, t e lapped portions having sui'cient area to receive' one or more fasteners such 'as'that indicated at 16. fastener of any suitable form may be used', that shown inthe. present instance being a rivet split at vone endto provide tongues or spurs 17, 17. When such a fastener is used it is preferableto insert it from the bottom face of the sole, so that the ton es or spursA 17 will be upon the inside of t e shoe. If a shank stiifener such as that indicated at 18 is to be used it is arranged upon the flange of the counter stiilener prior to inserting t then driven tlirou h vtllelsole, through the lapped-portions o the Vange, and thro'ugh the shank st iener, and e tongues or spurs e fastener 16, and the latter is` the upper to the sole, arran spurs have been hammered down. .T e bulk l' yof material as shown by the drawin s is slightly exaggerated, as it would be di cult to illustrate the elements clearly if theelements lwere shown as thin as they would actually be.

A When the shoe hasprogressed to the stage represented by Fi s. 1 and 2 it is ready' to be turned right si e out,.,^`and-'.in` the course of turning it the counter portion 12 of the lining would vbe carried up over the upper edge of the counter stifl'ener and then tucked down into the latter as'represent-ed in Figs. 4 and 5l ICementI or other adhesive lsubstance may be applied to the innermfnce of the counter'stilener or to the contacting face of the lining to hold the latter securely in place. When this has been done the last 20,may be replaced in the shoe preparatory to inserting the heelseat nails 21. When the said nails are driven they pass through the sole, through the flange 15 of the counter still"- ener, through the heel-seat portion of the shankV stillener 18, through the margin'of 95 the counter portion 12 of the lining, and are turned back and clenched by the usual metal plate 22 on the last. This having been ldone and a method :of making the same, the invention, as far as it relates to the finished article, is capable of being embodied in a shoe that is made right side out, such as a welt shoe or a McKay shoe in which 'case also the lapped portions of thecounter stiffener andfthe shank stilfener would be secured directly to the sole by a 'fastener 16.

I' claim:

1. In the art of making turn shoes, the method comprising the steps' of lasting the shoe and securing the pulled-overportion of the upper to the-sole, securing directl t'o the'sole, and right side up, a stiff m0 ded counter stilfener that has a heel-seat flange, by arranging the forward extremities of such flange in lapped relation and driving a fastener through the sole and through such lapped portions of the flange, turning lthe shoe, and otherwise securing the counter stiilener by driving fasteners through the heel-seat margin of the sole and through said ila p 2. Innteart of making turn shoes, the method comprising the steps of lasting the shoe and securing the pulled-over rtionf ing, rig t side up on the sole a still molde counter stillener that has aheel-seat flange, lappng'th'e for`v lle Laarne@ 6 tions, and through said shank-stiener, turning the shoe, and driving nails through the heel-seat margin of the sole, through said ange, and through said shank-stl'ener.

3. A shoe comprising a sole, an upper, a

10 counter stifiener `having a 'heel-seat ange the forward extremities of which are lapped, one over the other, and a fastener extending through such lapped portions of said ange und being anchored in said sole, whereby1 the forward portions of said counter stiffenerare secured directly to the sole.

i 4. A shoe comprising a sole, an upper, a. counter stiti'ener having a heel-seat liange the forward extremities of which arelapped, one over the other,"a` shank stifl'ener, and a fastener extending through such lapped portions ofsaid flange, and through said shanksti'ener, and being anchored in said sole, whereby said shank-sti'ener and the for ward portions of said counter stiiener are secured directly to the sole and to each other. 5. A slice having a counter stifener therein, said counter stlffener having a heel-seat fiange thei'fcrward portions of which are lapped one over the other, and fastening means extending through said lapped por tions te secure the forward portions ofthe sti'ener against spreading. a

l (i. A shoe having a counter stiener therein, a heel, the forward ends of said counter stifi'ener being lapped one over the other in front of the lreast of the heel, and fastening means anchofed in the sole in front of the breast of the heel and extending through such lapped portions of the counter stiifener.

7. A shoe having a counter stifener therein, a heel, a shank-stiffener, and fastening means ancho red in the sole in front of the breast of tha heel and extending through said shank stfener, the forward portions of said counter sticner being between said shank sti tien er and the sole, and being a substantial distance in front of the breast of the heel, said fastening means extending through sait'A counter stiifener.

8. A shoe having a counter stiffener the forward ends of which have lapped portions fastened directly to each other.

In testimony whereof 1 have ailixed my signature.

MILTON L. DODGE.

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