US1206189A - Composition of matter for sizing and dyeing. - Google Patents

Description

mlmmcniv. AISEN, or CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

'comPosI'rIoN or MA'mEn FOR, SIZING AND DYEING.

No Drawing.

To all whom it may cohcern Be it known that I, MAURICE N. AISEN, a subject of the King of Roumania, residing atIJhicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented a certain new and useful Composition of Matter for Sizing and Dyeing, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to a composition of matter to be used as a sizing and dyeing bath. This composition may be used in arts where a combined sizing and dyeing operation is employed, and as a specific example I shall describe it in connection with the manufacture of hats with which Iam familiar. 1

In the manufacture of hats and particularly those of straw and hemp braids, the

stock comes to the manufacturer in its natural color, unbleached and unsized. According to the usual practice, when an order is received, the manufacturer takes from his stock a sufficient number of pieces of braid required to fill the order. This he has dyed to the desired colors and shades and the,

stock is then put through the regular operations of stitching, sizing, blockin and pressing, known to those familiar with the-art. Among the disadvantages to the manufacturer of such practice, are the following: The dyeing of the stock in lots and in the a piece in amounts 'tofill a customers order requires considerable time, and as very few hat manufacturers operate a dyeing plant in connection with their works, the dyeing must be done outside. It usually takes from ten days to two weeks to send the braid from the hat manufacturer to the dyer and.

for its return, and in the meantime the fashions as to the color or shade ordered may change, and if the'order is canceled or reduced the hat manufacturer must stand the loss of the braid which has been dyed, or it must be redyed in black. In the original packages or pieces the braid is evenly laid back and forth flat and the edges straight. When dyed in the piece the package must be opened and made loose so that the dye may reach-all parts of the package and when it' dries there is more or less distortion of the braid and the edges are more or less curled. Also the braid loses some of the stiffness which it possessed when in the original ackage or'piece, and thus renders the stitc mg a little more uneven and difiicult to accomplish. Addition- ,iSp'ecification of Letters Patent. 7

Patented ivov. 28, 191

Application filed May 15, 1814. Serial No. 838,690.

ally it renders necessary the rewinding of the braid on reelsbefore it goes to the stitching room.

The hat braid comes in packages running from forty to eighty yards each and the making of a hat usually requires more braid than. is contained in a single piece, so that in practice when the operator has stitched one package or piece of the d ed braid care must be exercised in the selection of the next piece in order that the hat shall have a unform color or shade throughout, as otherwise it may be rejected by the customer. The same care must be, exercised in the selection of the thread with which the sewing is done, as it must match as near aspossible the color'and shade of the dyed braid. This 7 requires the manufacturer to carryin stock a large number of tubes or spools of thread of various colors and shades many of which may not be used or may not be called for during the season. It is the experience of j the trade that thread manufacturers will not sell supplies in small quantities and hence the hat manufacturer is required to purchase a certain amount of each color of thread far in advance ofthe season, and if the fashion in colors changes, the unused or uncalled for colors are a loss. From the standpoint of the jobber; he must keep on hand a comparatively large stock of hats of various colors to supply a possible demand from retailers, and at the close of the season' may find himself withmany colors unsold. These hats are a lossto the jobber and are usually sold by him at much less than the actual cost; I

The above statements are sufficient to show that in the hat industry the caprices of fashion may, and they often do, entail a considerable loss upon the manufacturer because of the conditions under which he is compelled to manufacture. therefore, has been to lessen, to some extent at least, the'liability of such losses, and I have succeeded in doing so by a method they have been sewed instead of first dyeing the braid and then sewing the dyed braid as hasbeen done heretofore. In practising such method I utilize as the dye bath properties of g ue by hydrolysls thereby My purpose,

which includes the dyeing of the hats after V as nitric acid, hydrochloric acid and sulfuric 7 4 hol. To this liquid, While heated to about rendering it soluble in an organic solvent such as methyl or ethyl alcohol. As hydro-"' lyzing agents I have used mineral acids, such Example 1: I take two and one-half pounds of nitric acid 70 per cent. pure, and add one and one-jquarter pounds of formic acid 25 'per cent. pure, and three and one-half pounds of "water. These are mixed and, shaken or agitated in any conven'ient manner to produce a homogeneous mixture.

- I then add ten pounds of powdered glue and mix, taking care that the glue is well cov-v ered by the liquid. This is allowed to stand from one to three hours, and then I add alc hol as desired and shake or agitate .for about fifteen minutes.

Example 2: I take about eight to ten pounds of hydrochloric acid calculated as ydrogen chlorid pure, to fOO pounds of glue, and add the acid-to one gallon of alco- 120 to 130? F., the glue is added and the mixture allowed to stand at that tempera.-

ture, for about one hour with occasional stirring; during this time hydrolysis of the glue ensues and the glue is dissolved in the alcohol. Any suitable means 'for heating the solution ma be provided. I

Example 3:v en per cent. of potassium hydroxid, of the weight of glue to be dis-- solved, is dissolved in two gallons of alcohol and the mixture heated to about 120 F. The glue' is then added, when stirring, and the mixture heated to about 145 to 150 F. in a vessel containing means to recover the alcohol vapors. The mixture is heated at this temperature for about one hour or onehour and a half and then neutralized by the addition of a suitable acid either completely or to any desired-degree which is not harmful to the glue or to the material. treated.

I have used the'term glue in the above examples as includin gelatin, and as mean- .ing animal albuminoids and glues of gelatinic basis which heretofore, so far as known to me, have been insoluble in alcohol, acetone, ether and other orga'nicsoL vents.

' undue amount of mineral acid will in time impair the eificie'ncy of the composition as a sizing and if permitted to remain in the solution, might hydrolyze theglue to a degree which will render the composition less effective. Also the acid is apt to be harmful to cellulose braids of which the the solution, which in the. present case 1s used for sizing as well asa dye :1 bath, the following may be cited.

hits are made. I, therefore, neutralize all of the. hydrolyzing agent, or neutralize it to a degree at which its resence is not harm- 'ful to the glue or to t e'hat material. The

alcoholic solution of glue being the dye bath the bath may be readily made acid, alkaline or-neutral accqrding to the character of the;

dyestufl" used. With a asic coal tar color the bath is made slightly acid and with a substantive color, slightly alkaline; If the dyestuffis insoluble in water I dissolve it in alcohol and add to the bath. If insoluble in alcohol I dissolve it in water or by other j suitable solvent, and add to the bath, thev proportion of dyestufl' depending upon the intensity of color desired on the goods, and

[varies from one-half ounce to twenty-five ounces for a twenty gallon bath. I can use and have used the following: Basic colors such as chrysoidines, phosphms, rhodamins,

'methylene blues, cotton blues, etc. Substan-' tive or direct colors such asdiamins, 'oxamins, etc. Acid colors suchas' azo colors, chrysolns, rosindulln, allzarlns. The amount of 'colorlng matter desired is dissolved 1n its appropriatesolvent and added to the bath and thoroughly stirred therethrough.

I have found that the .presenceof -a certain,

amount'of water, even 25 to 30 per cent.,. in

the solution is not detrimentaL-the amount depending upon the coeflicients of contrac tion of the braid and the thread.

\Having prepared, thebath by adding the dyestufiv to the alcoholic sizing-solution the manufacture of a hat includes the following operations: When an order is received for hats to be of certain colors, the stock in its original unbleached and untreated condition 'and' in the original bundle or piece as it comes from the braid manufacturer, is sent to the sewing room where it is sewed on the block to the forms desired and. with little.

or no allowance for shrinkage. As the stock is used in its natural conditlon the operator uses ordinary white cotton thread for sewing the braid thereby doing away with the necessity of carr ing on hand a supply of. various colors 0 threads as the thread is dyed at the same timeand'the same color as the braid. When, however, the hat form I is to be dyed with a basic coal tar color I prefer to use a cotton thread mordanted by any of the usual and known methods for mordanting cotton. After the hat form is sewed it is sent to the sizing and dyeing room and treated as follows: Any desired 'number'of hats are placed in a wire cage suspended or supported in a vat and the latter closed air and watertight. Into the closed vat is forced the solution made as above described, that is, a sizing solution which at the same time contains a dyestuff. The solution is preferably introduced under a pressure of from ten to twenty pounds and at atemperature of from to F., and

in amount suflicient to submerge the hats or to completely fill the vat as may be desired. Thehats are allowed to remain in the solution for three to six minutes or longer as may be necessary in order that the solution may thoroughly enetrate the braid and to uniformly size an dye the braid and thread. The solution is then run off and any excess removed from the hats preferably by admitting air under pressure to the vat. The hats are then removed from the vat, hung up to dry, blocked and pressed in the usual way.

Among the advantages of the method herein described the following may be named: The hats are sewedwith the braid in its natural color and condition making it easier for the operator to handle and sew. As the dyeing is done after sewing, the coloring .of the hat is uniform and does away with the necessity of matching the pieces of braid as when the braid, as heretofore, has been dyed before sewing. It also does away with the necessity of carrying in stock a large number of tubes or spools of various colors of thread, as white thread may be used which is dyed a uniform color with the braid. By prior methods the sizing sometimes alfects the'color and causes it to .run

' to the sizing and as to the dyeing. Carry" or appear Streaky.- By the present method a the sizing being colored penetrates the fiber and makes a uniform color over the hat.

The alcohol of the bath penetrates the fiber readily, carrying both the sizing and the color and produces a more uniform result both as rates readily the time required for drying.

the hats is reduced to a minimum. The sewed hat is sized and dyed in one' operation "requiring but a few minutes instead of, as heretofore, waiting upon the dyer to dye the ing the time the chances of a change in, or a cancellation of, an order is lessened. By

being able to have an order filled in a comparatively short time it is not necessary for the jobber to keep on hand a large supply. If there should be a sudden demand for a particular color, or particular shape of hat, the order .can be filled and delivered by the manufacturer in about one-fourth the time heretofore required.

What I claim and desire to secure by Let ters Patent of the United States is 1. A composition of matter containing hydrolyzed glue in solution in an organic solvent and a dyestuff.

2. A composition of matter containing hydrolyzed glue in an alcoholic solution, and a dyestufi.

3. A composition of matter containing hydrolyzed glue in solution in alcohol and a .:basic coal tar color.

4. A sizing and dyeing solution containing hydrolyzed glue and a dyestufi'.

5. A sizing and dyeing solution containing hydrolyzed glue and a basic coal tar color.

6. A composition of matter containing a. neutral solution of hydrolyzed glue in an organic solvent, and a dye-stufi', v

7. A composition of matter containing a neutral alcoholic solution of hydrolyzed glue, and a dye-stufi'.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto" si ed my name in the presence of two sui scribing witnesses. I

MAURICE N. AISEN.

Witnesses:

E. CALDWELL, E. PASGHKE.