US1114190A - Method of trousers-cutting. - Google Patents

Description

P. L. SCOTT.

METHOD oF TROUSERS CUTTING.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 6, 1912- THE NORRISFETERS CO.. PHaTo-LITIIJ WASHING TON. D. 1.'.

FARB. Ll SCOTT, 'OF TOLEDO, OHIO.

METHOD OF TROUSERS-CUTTING.

Specification of Letters Patent.

. Application led March 6, 1912. Serial No. 682,056.

To all whom` t may concern Be it known that I, FARB L. ScoT'r, a citi- Zen of the United States, residing at Toledo,

Lucas county, Ohio, have invented Methods of Trousers-Cutting, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to the lcutting of trousers, havingv a special utility when adopted in connection with single and double thigh measures. Tn carrying out this cutting, sets of accurate graded scales may be adopted and incorporated in a rule, thereby eliminating computations, guess work and more or less rcrude approximations.

Referring to the drawings: Figure l is a draft of a forepart of a trousers leg in ac cordance with the invention herein; 2 is a d raft of a backpart of a trousers leg; F ig. 3 is a view of one side of a rule showing certain sets of scales having particular utility the cutting ofv trousers; Fig. 4L is a view of the opposite side of the rule of Fig. 3, showing additional sets of scales having further utility in trousers cutting; and Fig. 5 is a fragmentary outline of a human form to illustrate procuring kof trousers dimensions. y

e The individual removes coat and vest and anything in trousers pockets which might interfere with obtaining proper measurements. The individual then takes his position on a slightly raised block, assumes a normal attitude, with feet neither close together nor spread apart. With the waist band of the trousers above the hip bones, the individual lwearing the old trousers may be measured properly for new trousers..

The outline in Fig. 5 is indicated nude in order that the location of the pointsr may be more clear. To procure the dimension Vil- B of Fig. l for the outseam of the trousers, measurement is taken from the waist line W, Fig. 5, just above the hip bones, to the floor 'at a point directly in front of the heel of the individual and at the outside of the foot. In order that the garment may properlyclear the floor, a deduction of fin. is made from this measurement, leaving the net outseam length. y

To procurethe inseam dimensioinnieasurement is taken from the crotch of the individual to the floor, inside of the foot and forward of the heel, with in. deduction as for the outseam. This dimension is laid out on the draft to determine the point `T from the point B.

For front rise of the trousers, the square'U is' placedclose up in the crotch of the individual with the upstanding arm of the square perpendicular to the floor, and the measurement at point Kinay be elected as desired. y u

The single thigh measurement is taken, say usually on the left side about the v'leg horizontallyandy close upto the crotch; The l double thigh measurement is taken in the same plane, but about both legs, with similar tension on themeasuring tape as used in sin gle thigh measurement;v In a parallel plane and with similar tape tension, the seat meas-.i

ure is taken-around the largest vpart ofthe buttock, as at line S,.Fig. 5. With the waisty measurement taken immediately above lthe rat-@need ocaso, i914.

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` distance to the waistband on this arm is taken. Bottom measurement at point B andr knee hip bones, quite snuglydif y desired for belted` trousers, the measurements. are vcomplete.

In proceeding with ,the.draft, main construction linef-fWjmay be laid ofi', Fig.:

TW. `To eliminate computation and inciden-` tal liability to error, afrule, Fig. 3 isk provided, having the scale 1/6 S thereon, permitting direct reading by placing the S edge of the rule along. the line B-'Wwith the T edge thereof to the right. This position ofl the rule, with the line S-'T of the rule at the point T, makes possible the location of the point S between T and W at once. The point W is determinedfby laying voff the front rise fromthe point T toward W, or away from B. Except as to thepoint S, all of the above dimensions laid out on the draft are to full scale. These points determine all of the height dimensions, andy each may have a line passed therethrough at lrightangles to the lmain .draft construction f line ioxs To facilitate the laying out of thetrouser widths onv thebasis of they dimensions procured from thefindividual, the rule of Figs. n

and i is advantageously used. Placing `the side of the rule shown in Fig. -l up, with the medial rule line B-VV alined with the construction line B-lV of the draft and the W point of the medial rule line at the point l of the draft, all is in readiness for marking the points l and 2 of the waist by using the direct reading for waist as taken from the individual. These iV-1V scales of the rule are one-eighth actual waist measures taken by the tape, and accordingly the point W of the draft is midway between the points l and 2. As there are two foreparts and two backparts to make a complete trouser waist, the yhalf of one of these four elements makes one eighth of the waist between W and the point l or lV and the point 2. Turning the rule over from its position at the point W on the draft, and moving down to the point S, the side of the rule of 3 is shown, and the scales S-S are in Position for direct marking of the points 3 and il. The lower S scale of F ig. 3 is the one which determines the point 4 and its graduations Ifrom the medial line T-S of the rule are on the basis of ive-siizteenths actual dimension, less three-sixteenths of an inch'. The upper S scale of F ig. 3 is the one iif'hi'ch determines the point 3 and its graduations from the medial line T-S of the rule are'on the basis of three-siXteenths actual dimension, plus fire-sixteenths of an inch. lll/ithout turning the rule over, place the point'TV of the rule over the point T on the draft with the line T-S of the rule alined with the draft construction line T-S, the point 6`may be laid off directly as the double `thigh dimension taken from the individual by 'the scale DT, while the point 5 is at the same time located on basis of the single thigh dimension and the use of the scale ST ofthe rule. The scale DT is live thirtys econdsv actual plus three siXteenths of an inch. The scale ST is five sixteenths actual minus three fourths of an inch. lith the arrows on the rule directed toward the left, as 'in all of these trouser draft width meas urement determinations, the rule is turned over from the position at which the singl-e and ldouble thigh markings have been made, so that the point lV of the rule falls on the poin't'lVof the draft and the line B-VV of the rule alines with the line B-VV of the draft. The actual knee measurement elected 'maybe doubled, and the readings on the W scales then directly applied, z'. e., 28 for a fourteen inch knee, etc., thus locating` the knee points 7 and S. The rule is then moved to have point B of the rule over the point B ofthe draft, and with the line B-VV of the rule alining with the line B-VV of the draft, and "the bottom width points 9, l0, are marked by reading` ofi directly on the inner Bs'cale's. These inner B scales are nine fortieths actual 'plus one sixteenth of an inch.

` Thesca-le Abeyond one of the W scales is locates the point l5.

actual and may be ininches. `By using this A scale in. may be added beyond the point 5 to determine the point l1, allowing for dress, the garment element for the left side being made this much larger than the similar fore part yelement for the right side. For this saine condition, at point 3 three eighths of an inch is taken each way, and at point l, one fourth inch each way, the respective curves fared through these points showing on Fig. l, indicate the outlines for the two elements as in practice disclosed on a common draft. The draft outlines are extended to the knee point 7 and thence to the bottom point 9. The point ll is disposed slightly below the line through T so that the seam lines 5, 7 and ll, 7 are equal. The hollowing out above E isfor foot clearance.

The difference between outseam and inseam dimensions determines the length of the curve fared fromfpoint 6, through the points #il and 2 to the point l2. The goint l2 is connected through the point W to the point l to complete the draft, the side seam line having been before extended up from the point 10, through the point S to the curve from the double thigh point 6.

Tn the backpart draft or F ig. ./1, the outer B scales ofthe rule as shown in F ig. i, are L used to determine the back part bottom widths in a similar manner to the front widths 9, lO. These back part bottom widths are accordingly marked as points 13,

lil.4 These outer B scales are three 'tenths right from the point 3. For normal back waist suppression., the radiating line in the middle, marked 7 5, to indicate 7 50 mav be used and the rule is so shifted that this `line 75 from tie point 3 is a-lined with the line 3, fi on the draft vthrough the draft point S. The intersection of the S edge of the rule with the waist line through W The angle for the seat seam for the back part is thus fixed. The length for this line is determined by using the rule scale 1,/6 S, with the scale shifted along to have the point S cf the rule center fall on'the point l5 of the draft. The direct reading for the seat measurement taken indicates the point to be marked. This marking 16 fixes the top of this back seam, when ordinary trousers are to be made. However, if the draft is for hip trousers, or trousers'tobe worn witha belt, instead of placing the point S of the rule on the pointl of the draft, the point H of the rule is placed on the point of the draft. The l/G S scale is one sixteenth actual plus seven eighths of an inch When read from the point S of the rule, While it is one sixteenth actual plus one fourth inch When e read from the point H of the rule.

single thigh measurement.

Location of draft points is above discussed particularly as to the use of the rule scales and their peculiar ready adaptation for accurate location. The ranges of the scales are suiiicient'to meet the conditions usually found in practice.

In making garments, good practice is to have the individual present a normal appearance. Accordingly it is not proper to emphasize the peculiarities of the individual by too close adherence to dimensions departing from normal. The single and double thigh measurements as taken and applied to the draft, contribute to insure proper fitting garments, especially when taken in connection with the seat measurements. As

an automatic check, it is to be noted'the DT i scale and the S scale of the vrule are adjacent, the normal dimension in one scale approximating the line of the corresponding dimension in the other. That is, an individual having a 34 in. seat measure, Vshould have 31g; in. as normal double thigh measure.

The use of the single and double thigh measurements automatically fix thel location of the legs of the individual, Whether close or far apart, and adapt the garment accordingly, also taking into account leg size as Well as leg position. With the legs of the individual set far apart on the body, the double thigh measurement Would be large relatively to the normal seat measurement.

With the individuals legs close together, the

seat measurement is relatively small as to the These single thigh, double thigh and seat measurements are the basis for observation as to back Waist suppression. With legs spaced apart, there is less angle to the back part, owing `to the flatter back, and line is used; While vwith legs close on the body, the seat is more prominent and great incline is needed, thev 7 0 line for()O being used in making the draft.

lVhat is claimed and it is desired to secure by Letters Patent is:

l. The improvement in method of measuring for trousers and plotting the draft for the patterns thereof comprisingtaking the seat circumference at the seat and single and double thigh circumferences at the crotch of the person for Whom the trousers are being drafted, applying said seat dimension di-f rectly to the draft at the seat,`and applying independently of the seat measure, the single thigh and double thigh measures directly Ato the draft at the crotch and respectively in opposite directions from a ,commonl point and independently of the seatvmeasure.

2. The method of plotting trouser drafts Which comprises providing a draft construction line, providing a bottom line near one end of the draft line andv bisected by saiddraftline, providing a Waist line at the other 'end of the ydraft line and bisected by the draft line, laying oif the crotch point on said draft line, and laying olf respectively in opposite directions from said crotch pointfsingle and double thigh dimensions. f

8. rThe method oit/determining back Waist suppression in cuttingy trouser drafts emlo in@ longitudinal and ytransverse conp b D struction lines, embodyingthe determination of the back Waist suppression` angle as to va construction line, and the marking of the direction ofthe back Waist suppression from said angle upon the draft. I

il.` The method of cutting trousers includ ing'l the determinationl of leg position as to the trunk double thigh measurement as the circumstance of the individual yat they crotch below and independentof the seat measurement as the circumference of theindividual at the seat and v-between the Waist and crotch, and applyingl said vdimensions as independent Widths tothe pattern draft v` at lcorrespondingly spaced points.

5. Thev method of cutting trousers includi'ngk the determination of' the type ofy FARB L. SCOTT.

vWitnesses: JAMES W. HARBAUGH, JAS. S. MARTIN.

Copies of this patent *may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the f Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.

It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 1,114,190, granted October 20,

1914, upon the application of Farr L. Scott, of Toledo, Ohio, for an improvement in Methods of Trousers-Cutting, an error appears in the printed specification requiring correction as follows: Page 3, line 87, for the Word circumstance read circumference; and that the said Letters Patent should be read with this correction therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Otlice.

Signed and sealed this 10th day of November, A. D., 1914.

R, F. WHITEHEAD,

[SEAL] Acting Commissioner of Paziens.

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