US1081197A - Seam for sewed articles. - Google Patents

Description

1. BARNETT. SRAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES. APPLIUATION-IILED MAB.. 7,' 1912.

Patented Dec. 9, 1913.l

Y i TEA-:VEL

Arronwsys f .iAcoB BABNETT, or NEW Yemen. Y. I

Een nos s nwnn ARTICLES.'

' ATo all 'wh-0m t may concern o es Be it known that I, JACOB BAnN'E'rr, a. citizen of Athe United l'States-and a resident of the city of ew York, boro'ngh of Brooklyn, in .the con y..ofKi11gs-'nnd State .of New York, lim-'einvented a Vnett". and Improved Seam for Sewed Articles, of which the fol-- lowing is a ulh clear, and exactdescription.

My inventionre'lates to an improved form' ot 4felling for edge seams of coa-ts andv other garments, and 'the object thereof is to devise n. method for securing together layers of cloth 4forming .the edge. of the garment in such a way as vto .make the felling almost inr fvisiblepwhile at .the same time providing an edge sezunfelling that can'be'worked by machinery from inside of the edge and finished with the same neatness as if it had beenfelled by hand.v A.

Mv improved form of stitching is preferablyadnpted for Woolengoods, suoli as tibet.

and the like, and is worked in snch a way that when `the seam 1s finished only one of the sections. of cloth, th'eedges of which are nnitedzneed'be doubled for Vfolded over, the edge of the other piece 'o cloth being secured directly to..tlie .folded.portion of cloth ofthe first' piece wit-hout 'heir'iI, i; -},doubled so'as to reduce th thickness ofthe coat or othengarment 4along 'the edge Where the 4seam is placed.

Ref er enee-is to be Vhad to, the 'accompanying drati'ings forming a part ot this specifiction'inwhich the saine chamctersof reference indicate the 'same parts inall the views. .Fignre 1 isa front View of the lapel and part of i coatsh'owingztwo layers', of cloth` secured together beforeftnifnin ;*F ig. 2 is an edgeview oftheparts show vnm Fig; 1'; Eig. 3 is'fa View of two'plece'so-cloth, showing thecross stitches Which-form" 'the first step in my improved felling Fig.f4is a sectional viewfshowingthe two pieces* of cloth after the hosting-.has been done and the felt has been'forrned; .1*`g. =5 is ajsectional-.view similair to that shownl in Eig. -fl 'but showing the `p o sitiofn; o the ,partaiter .the cloth. has been pllesged 51? ig. Q6 is sectional View showing the partS.-.;it the" 'straight A stitching has been forinedljand-Figsn and 8 are sectional yiewsshowing'how. the parts arefoldedq' AOnltlfre drawings; referring particularly to Fig. '1,'tl1e. ;ifnniieijal;1 representsa iece of Specincation of Letters Patent.

of the piece or layer-Q 'the layer 1 -is greater? than .the remaining portion ot the length ofeneh stitch 3 whichy Paieneaneee, wie.

Application med March 7,1912; seriaLNo. 682,096.- 1

ing beyond the edge of the same, and 2 being securedto 1 along;r Aits edges by ineens 'of a row of zigzag stitches shown at 3. This is thefrst step in the' operation forming my improved seam, and yit is to be understood here Athat the pieces'l and 2 are to be tnrned so as to bring their adjacent faces outward when the seam is finished. .i

Referring. to Fig. this Viewillustrates in detail more fullythefirst lstep in the operation of my improved method. 1n this view the piece l, Which-lies beneath the piece of cloth, Q, is seen as having its longitudinal edge extending heyond'the longitudinal edge of the piece 2, and 3 lis the'ron" of zig-Zag stitches which secures these two pie'cestogether. These stitches are'. made so that they pass through both pieces 'and 2 a short distance' from the edge of the piece 2L. and they also pass` throughthe piece l just, A over the edge of the piece 25 so as to secure the two piecesv'together by loops of thread which .passthrough the piece 1 in two places,.bnt

through the piece 2l in only onel place.: T his method of stitching to 'permit the' piece 2 to be more readily turned Whenthe sewing operation is finished. After the'two pieces have been sewed together in this Way; theV piece 2 is pushed or Worked laterallywith respect to its length;l and the lengthiof the lpiece l `to form a, welt, :1s-shown at '4f-illustratedolenrly in 4, rk-:row of'basting i stitches shown atisjthjenfpassedthrough both of the pieces 1 andQfalong one'side lof this welt or Wrinkle-and the Vgoods Inre. then Pressed, so as to force the Welter wrinkle e out flat. rs a resnltthzd;a portionof the length of eachstltch which. crosses the edge is located on the opposite'side ot the. layer. 'This position of the stitching -3 isshownin Fig. 5,`A. row offV finishing.. stitches-.- -or and passes througlr next sen-'ed thronghth'e piecell justL beyond piece 1" and through the ends ofthese =zigzag stitchesgof 'thet piece; l and the adjacent edge locks or. anchors. the" zigzagstitches,V Ap'ass-'n-1g es is ,tohold the zigzag'stitches of the piece l2.V to prevent the zigzag stitches of piece 1 from pulling out so as'to show any considerable width there- 6 which hold them down to the' face of the almost invisible,

'piece 1. As a result, when the pieces 1 and 2 are turned or folded over to bring them into the position shown in Fig. 8, only a narrow vwidthjof each of the zigzag stitches which appear on the face of the .goods shown-in Fig. d is left exposed along the meeting edges of the pieces 1 and 2. This exposed portion is vshown Vat Bin Fig. 8, and the relatively narrow width thereof will be apparent qncomp'aring the same to the width of the zigza g stitches which are shown in Fig.

ner above described, to roduc'e the finished article illustrated in 1ig. 8, the felling stitches which can be seen along the straight edge of thepiece 2 where it' is joined to the folded edge of the piece 1, are so fine as to be and the general effect is practically the same' as if the goods had been sewed by hand instead of by=machinery,. by means of which my improved form of felling is produced. l

The plait orgwrinkle 4 is obtained by means of an especial sewing apparatus, so that it can be formed at the Sametime that the basting'stitches 5 are inserted,- but obviously this lait or wrinkle can be worked by any suita le apparatus, or even by hand if desired. It will be from an inspection of Fig. 7, that the straight stitches 6 hold in, as it were, practically as much of the width: of the zigzag stitches 3 whi'hl cross the edge of the piece 2, as projects over this edge, and when the piece 2 is turned, the onlyportion of the thread which is used to form the stitches 3, which remains exposed, is the exceedingly small portion which extends through the piece 2 and thence into the piece 1 below the row of threads 6, referring to the positio'n shown,.for example, in Fig. 8. The result is the finely finished and neat eifect which it is the object of my invention to produce.

In formino thewelt 4 and ressing out'it'he seam to produce the result s own in Figz, the portion of the threads forming the stitches which pass through the pieces 1 and 2, and shown in Fig. 5, is subjected to a' force which tends to stretch them, owing to the fact that they no longer pass directly 5. As a result; when' the goods have been turned after being stitched in the manapparent, especially through both the layers but extend in a Sort of diagonal direct-ion. The threads will be looped together at a point located somewhere adjacent the innerer abut ing lsurfaces ofthe layers, 1 and 2, but the precise 4location of ,i The effect will be this point` is not materia practically the sameas if the threads extend' continuously through the two layers, so as to with the zigzag stitches which lie on the` 'surfacel forming the bottom of the layer-2.v llhenthe -parts 'are moved to the position shown in Fig.A 8', it is' these inside stitches'as they A view, and they comprise the exceedinglyv small portions of the threads which ard visible in the finished seam shown in F ig. 8. When these threads are the same color as the cloth they are practically invisible, and if the layers 1 land 2 be spread out dat after turning, the seam cannotbe n oticed,and the eifect isthe same as if the layers l and 2 formed a continuous sheet of cloth.

Having thus described my invention, 'I claim as new and .desire to secure by 'Letters Fatent:l v

1. A seam for sewed articles comprising two layers of cloth, a row of zigzag stitches uniting to the body of the other layer of cloth adjacent the edge thereof, and a row. of straight stitches which are run along the row of zigzag stitches through the other layer of cloth along the edge of the one layer to secure each of the zigzag stitches to the may be called, that are brought to-50 the edge of one of the layers of cloth A connect `the zigzag stitches on the surface i at the top ofthe layer 1, as shown in Fig. 1, 7'5

other layer at a vpoint between the ends of f the stitches, whereby when the'layersare turned, folding the other layer along its edge, only a small portion of the threads forming the stitches will be visible.

2. A seam for sewed articles comprising two layers ofV cloth, a row of zigzag stitches joining the edge of one layer of cloth to the body of another layer adjacent the edge thereof, said zigzag stitches crossing the edge ofthe one layer andpassing through the other layer, these zigzag stitches on the opposite face of the other layer being even with the edge ofthe one layer, and a row of straight stitches layer of cloth along the edge lof the one layer of cloth, to secure each of the zigzag stitches 1l passing through the other which cross thevedge of the one layer vto the' 'POYH -of' the threads forming .the stitches will be visiblef 3. A searnfor A sewed-articlescomprising two layers of cloth, a .rowof stitchesuniting hthe edge ofone of the layers of-cloth to t e body ofthe .other layer of cloth adja- A cent the edgethereof, .and means passing:

meme? v along the edge of the one eyer of cloth to secure the threads of seid stitches to the body of the otheil ayer atjacent the one layer, whereby when the iayers are turned to fold the other layer along a line' adjacent the edge of the one ayer, only e Smau poi1t tion of threads forming the said stitches will be visible.

4. A seam for sewed articles comprising two layers'of cloth, stitches uniting the edge vof one of the layers to the body oi the othez` layer adjacent the edge of the other layer,

' the portions of the lengths of the ,threads forming said stitches being greateibon the side ot' the othei layer yto which the one eyer is applied than the portions of the iengthe of the theads on the opposite side of the other layer, and means extending along' the edge ofthe one layer: and engaging the threads forming the stitches tov secure the same Yto the body of the 'other layer eioiig the-edge of the one layer, whereby, When the legers' are turned to fold the other layer around a line adjacent the edge of the one layer,ony a, email portion of the threads 25 forming seid stitches Wii he visible.

5. A'seein for sewed artioiee comprising two eye'fs of cloth, u row of zigzag stitches uniting the edge ot one Vof the layes of cloth to the 'body of the other ayer of 010th, ami 30 a row of straight stitches which are mm along the ifow of zigzag stitches through the other layer of cloth aong the ege of the one ayer to secure each: ot' the zigzag i stitches to the other layer at a point betweeii' the ends ofthe stitches, whereby when the." layers are turned, folding the other layer' aong its edge, only le small politi-on ofthe thread oming the stitches Willyhe Visihie.

In testimony Whefeo have' ysigne my 40 name to this specification in the pesence of two subscribing Witnesses. y .MooBBARNET-T.

1'itneseesz* 'WmIAM F. NICKEL,

PHE@ lD.I Roma/AUS;

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