TWI902671B - Process for steam jet bulking of multicomponent yarns, multicomponent yarns prepared therefrom, and package, stretch fabric, and article of manufacture comprising the multicomponent yarns - Google Patents

Abstract

Processes for steam jet bulking of multicomponent yarns, yarns produced via these processes, packages of wound multicomponent yarns produced via these processes, and stretch fabrics and articles of manufacture of these yarns and stretch fabrics are provided.

Description

A method for steam jet volumizing of multi-component yarns, comprising multi-component yarns produced therefrom, and packages, stretched fabrics, and products containing the multi-component yarns.

This invention relates to a process for producing bulky multicomponent yarns and to products including multicomponent yarns produced by steam curling according to this process, so as to obtain controlled tensile parameters in the processed yarn.

For applications requiring durability and compatibility with certain textile processing methods, it is desirable to produce stretched fabrics with a primary tensile component derived from non-elastic fibers.

Non-limiting examples of fibers for such stretched fabrics include multicomponent yarns, such as bicomponent filament yarns containing PET and PTT polymers. These conventional bicomponent yarns exhibit high shrinkage and retraction when thermally activated differential polymer shrinkage is used to create permanent bulk. Knitting and weaving processes using these yarns are challenging because they must accommodate the significant change in yarn length reduction to maintain weight control and produce fabrics with acceptable appearance and stretch. Unless processed through intermediate conversion steps, bicomponent yarns are limited to applications supporting fabric designs that allow for self-loosening to significantly reduce fiber length upon heat exposure. Introducing bicomponent yarns directly into package dyeing operations is inefficient due to the potential for core flattening and/or insufficient loft under winding conditions when length reduction is limited by winding conditions. Furthermore, achieving even color payoff in package dyeing processes is difficult when high yarn shrinkage occurs. If the core is not compressed under high pressure, the shrinkage of the yarn on the tube will increase the package density to the point where the dye will flow unevenly through the package. This uneven distribution of dye throughout the package, if introduced into the fabric, will result in defects or streaks.

Textile processing companies are aware of these challenges in packaged dyeing of bicomponent yarns. Various complex equipment designs have been revealed to address these challenges, including drum relaxation as disclosed in GB patent 1198035. Methods for spun yarn dyeing that significantly reduce efficiency and/or require non-traditional equipment have also been revealed.

There is a need for alternative processed multicomponent yarns of non-elastic fiber origin, methods for their production, and their use in stretched fabrics.

This invention relates to a process for initiating the bulking process of multicomponent yarns comprising thermally activated elastomer filament yarns using steam in a direct impact method with high superfeeding conditions. The pre-formation of bulk through loop winding and hot coils allows these yarns to be processed in knitting or braiding textile processing equipment to provide improved control over the tensile properties of the final fabric. The combination of monocomponent and bicomponent yarns may also reduce the number of yarns required in downstream processes and add control over the elongation generated in the final yarn. This method can be used to process a wide range of yarns, including general apparel fibers (<600 dtex) and industrial applications (>200 dtex). The process allows for the plying of multiple warp yarns, thereby increasing the dtex to the desired final level during the bulking process, while reducing the amount of yarn variants fed in. The yarn can be wound onto cardboard or plastic tubes, allowing for direct introduction into roll dyeing equipment for use in textiles requiring color before knitting or braiding.

Therefore, one aspect of this invention relates to a steam jet tumbling process for multi-component spun yarns. In this process, steam at 10 psig or greater is used as the fluid medium to overfeed the multi-component spun yarns at a high rate (e.g., overfeeding by more than 30% to an upper limit of over 300%) into a twisting nozzle to provide partial thermal tumbling and twisting of the multi-component fibers.

In one non-limiting embodiment, the resulting product is wound around a cardboard or plastic tube to allow for direct processing in further textile processing equipment.

In some non-limiting embodiments, hot water with a temperature of 60°C or higher (between 70°C and 100°C in most embodiments) is introduced before the coiling nozzle.

In some non-limiting embodiments, multiple feed yarns are twisted together a point before the nozzle inlet.

Another aspect of this invention relates to a multi-component spun yarn produced by a process for steam jet volumizing of multi-component spun yarns, wherein steam at a pressure greater than 10 psig is used as the fluid medium to overfeed the multi-component spun yarn at a high rate into a knotting nozzle to provide partial thermal volumizing and knotting of the multi-component fibers.

Another aspect of the invention relates to a package of multicomponent yarn wound on cardboard or plastic tubing. In one non-limiting embodiment, the warp-wound multicomponent yarn package generates bulk through thermal activation, resulting in a percentage bulk efficiency (%BE) greater than 15%. In another non-limiting embodiment, the warp-wound multicomponent yarn package has a package weight greater than 1 kg.

Another aspect of this invention relates to a process for preparing multi-component spun yarn knitted or woven stretched fabrics using a steam jet volumizing process. This process utilizes steam at a pressure greater than 10 psig as the fluid medium to superfeed the multi-component yarns at a high rate into a knotting nozzle, providing partial thermal volumizing and knotting/curling of the multi-component fibers.

Another aspect of this invention relates to a product comprising a multi-component spun yarn or a stretched fabric of multi-component spun yarn prepared by a process for steam jet volumizing of multi-component spun yarn, wherein steam at a pressure greater than 10 psig is used as the fluid medium to superfeed the multi-component spun yarn at a high rate into a knotting nozzle to provide partial thermal volumizing and knotting of the multi-component fibers.

1: Fix the yarn frame

2: Feeding the yarn

3: Automatic superfeeding roller

4: Applicator

5: Hot water tank

6: Steam supply source

7: Spraying lips

8: Driven traction rollers

9: Standard winding device

10: Cardboard or plastic dyeing tubes

Figure 1 is a diagram illustrating a non-limiting embodiment of the present invention used in the steam curling process of multi-component spinning.

This invention relates to a multicomponent straight-spun fiber that has the ability to create permanent bulkiness in one yarn through differential shrinkage, the multicomponent straight-spun fiber being processed to create bulkiness through direct high-pressure steam impact.

The steam jet tumbling process of this invention for multi-component spinning includes using steam as a fluid medium and pressure to overfeed the multi-component spinning yarn at high speed into a twisting nozzle to provide partial thermal tumbling through the thermal shrinkage and twisting of the multi-component fibers.

Multicomponent yarns used in the process may include side-by-side bicomponents or eccentric core-sheath bicomponents, wherein the two components exhibit differential shrinkage when exposed to heat, and this shrinkage imparts a crimped structure to the yarn. It is desirable to include one component of the yarn that is an elastic yarn in which the yarn length is significantly reduced through thermal shrinkage.

The components are selected materials and may include PET and PET with viscosity differences between the two components, PTT and PTT with viscosity differences between the two components, PTT and PET with different formulations or viscosities between the two components, PET and PBT, nylon and nylon, or other material choices known to those skilled in this technology. In addition to using bicomponent yarns, monocomponent yarns can be combined with bicomponent yarns to produce composite yarns, which can produce a special aesthetic appearance and simplify the number of yarn feeders in downstream knitting or weaving processes. One example is combining PET mono-oriented yarn and bicomponent PET/PTT yarn to create a desired stretch content with controlled stretch. The second example will be the combination of fully stretched black PET yarn and bicomponent PET/PTT yarn to create a color-mixing effect.

For the purposes of this invention, "high rate" in relation to feeding or overfeeding multicomponent yarn into a knotting nozzle means an overfeed rate greater than 30%. Therefore, in one non-limiting embodiment of this invention, the multicomponent yarn is overfed at a rate greater than 30%.

In one non-limiting embodiment, the procedure for steam-electrode multicomponent yarns for analysis involves placing the yarn of that length on an steam stage and steaming the sample for at least 30 seconds under relaxed conditions.

The vapor pressure used in this procedure can range from 10 psig to 60 psig.

In some non-limiting embodiments, the procedure further includes winding the resulting product onto a cardboard or plastic tube to allow for direct processing of loose, multi-component yarns in further textile processing equipment.

In one non-limiting embodiment, the process is aided by introducing hot water before steam is introduced to maximize the fiber temperature within the shrinkage range and increase entanglement efficiency. In one non-limiting embodiment, the water is heated to a temperature above 70°C.

In one non-limiting embodiment, multiple feed yarns are twisted together at a point before entering the twisting nozzle. This twisting increases the feed yarn's dtex. For example, if standard products for feed yarn production include 75 dtex, 150 dtex, 300 dtex, and a desired 450 dtex product, then one end of the 300 dtex yarn and one end of the 150 dtex yarn can be joined together and twisted before being introduced into the nozzle. Twisting refers to running two or more warp yarns into the same yarn guide to allow them to run together as a single yarn for the remainder of the process.

Figure 1 illustrates a non-limiting embodiment of an apparatus that can be used in the process of the present invention. As shown in Figure 1, a fixed yarn carrier 1 holds the feed yarn package and feeds the feed yarn to the superfeed roller. The feed yarn 2 can be fed as a single package or multiple strands can be combined to increase the feed dtex. The driven superfeed roller 3 feeds the yarn at a rate from 30% to 400%, faster than the post-jet speed. A hot water tank 5 with an applicator 4 introduces hot water into the yarn. A steam supply source 6 with a regulator controls the steam pressure from 10 psig to 60 psig. As shown in Figure 1, the apparatus further includes a nozzle 7 suitable for winding, such as an air curling nozzle. Non-limiting examples include ceramic or curling nozzles or other winding nozzle designs. Additionally, the apparatus includes a driven traction roller 8 and a standard take-up device 9 , which can wind the yarn onto a cardboard or plastic dyeing tube 10 with low tension. It is desirable to use steam as a fluid medium and pressure to overfeed the multi-component yarn into the winding nozzle at high rates to provide partial thermal and steam-induced bulking of the multi-component fibers. In this embodiment, it is expected that the multi-component yarn is an elastomer yarn, wherein the yarn length is reduced by 20% through heat shrinkage.

However, those skilled in this art will understand upon reading this invention that the processing conditions and equipment used can be varied to control the final amount of bulk and stretch to match the desired stretch for applications that wish to maintain low to medium stretch while possessing excellent recovery properties. The wide range of overfeeding and steam conditioning allows for variations in the potential bulk formation to match the final, predetermined product requirements. Additionally, winding conditions can be varied to allow for direct use or pre-dyeing before use in textile processing equipment.

This invention also relates to multicomponent split yarns produced by this process of steam jet volumizing for multicomponent split spinning, as well as yarn packages, fabrics, and articles made from yarns and fabrics.

The multi-component yarn produced by this process contains a large amount of bulk with lower shrinkage, allowing subsequent textile processing to be performed without additional intermediate steps. A key advantage is the ability to wind larger loads onto plastic or cardboard dyeing tubes and introduce them into the roll dyeing equipment.

The present invention utilizes a multi-component yarn package that generates bulk through thermal activation, achieving a percentage bulk efficiency (%BE) greater than 15%. This %BE is a crucial factor in determining whether a product can be processed through a package dyeing process without excessive bulking and shrinkage during dyeing, which could lead to tube flattening or impaired liquid flow, resulting in uneven dyeing. Success is achieved when this value is 15% or higher. Products using bicomponent PTT/PTT fully drawn feed yarns in the dtex range of 55 to 600 dtex have achieved %BEs ranging from 15% to 67%. Packages within this range have been successfully dyed in package dyeing processes. %BE is used as a relevant factor to control the final elongation of the yarn during further processing to achieve the desired fabric stretch value.

In one non-limiting embodiment, the roll has a roll weight of more than 1 kg. In another non-limiting embodiment, the product obtained by the fluffing process weighs two kilograms or more and has low density (low stiffness).

Products produced by this process are useful in roll dyeing for knitting and/or knitting processes, and in direct knitting and/or knitting processes, where it is desirable to control stretch properties and fabric weight through finishing processes to achieve lower shrinkage, and/or to create stretch in the warp fibers to obtain the target stretch characteristics in the form of the finished fabric. In a non-limiting embodiment, yarn produced by the process of the invention is used for knitted or knitted stretched fabrics. The final fabric garments can be used for end-use clothing such as shoes, socks, knitted pattern shirts, and shorts, which require good fabric stretch and recovery using low-temperature finishing processes to protect the accompanying fibers from high-temperature damage. In one embodiment, the use of this yarn in shoe upper fabrics allows for the use of a controlled stretch component with high resilience to eliminate the need for low-melt yarns when using elastic fiber yarns as the stretching engine, thus preventing overstretching. Loose-knit yarns are also suitable for industrial applications where the durability stretch component needs to be stable and not in an elastic fiber form.

All patents, patent applications, test procedures, priority documents, articles, publications, manuals and other documents cited herein are incorporated in their entirety by reference to the extent that the disclosure herein does not conflict with this invention and with respect to all jurisdictions that permit such incorporation.

The following test methods and examples demonstrate the invention and its capabilities. Other and different embodiments of the invention can be made, and several details can be modified and/or substituted in various obvious aspects without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Therefore, the examples are considered illustrative rather than limiting in nature.

Test methods

Percentage fluffing efficiency (%BE)

To accurately define the results of the procedure to provide information on yarn bulk and to provide a test method that allows for rapid testing and measurement of the results, the following equation is used to explain the percentage bulk processing efficiency (%BE).

%BE=((SSLB-SSLF)/(ISL-SSLF))*100

Where: ISL = Initial sample length selected for all samples **ISL:** Initial sample length selected for all samples **ISL:**

SSLF = Length of yarn after steaming when fed with two-component feedstock.

SSLB = Warp shrinkage length of spun yarn (due to evaporation).

As an example, the test method will have a 50% fluffiness processing efficiency value under the following conditions: ISL=36”

SSLF=9”

SSLB=22.5”

%BE=((22.5”-9”)/(36”-9”))*100=50%

Example

Example 1

165 dtex bicomponent PET/PTT fully stretched yarn is produced in 2 kg rolls on plastic dyeing tubes measuring 11.4” x 3”. %BE is 60%. The following process conditions are established: steam pressure of 28 psig.

Feeding rate is 360 ypm

Overfeeding rate is 250%

Haberly "A" Series Ceramic Spray Nozzle

The rate of water intake from boiling water is 40 ml/min.

Example 2

167dtex bicomponent PET/PTT stretched false twisted warp yarn is produced in 2kg packages on plastic dyeing tubes with dimensions of 11.4” x 3”. %BE is 58%. The program conditions are established as follows: Vapor pressure is 35 psig

The feeding rate is 530 ypm.

The overfeeding rate is 215%.

Haberly "A" Series Ceramic Spray Nozzle

The rate of water fed from boiling water is 40 ml/min.

Example 3

Two 165 dtex PET/PTT fully stretched yarns, twisted together at the yarn rest, are used to produce 2.7 kg packages on a plastic dyeing tube with dimensions of 11.4” x 3”. %BE is 60%. The process conditions are established as follows: steam pressure is 32 psig.

The feeding rate is 398 ypm.

The overfeeding rate was 247%.

Haberly "A" Series Ceramic Spray Nozzle

The rate of water intake from boiling water is 40 ml/min.

Example 4

165 dtex bicomponent PET/PTT fully stretched yarn was produced in 2 kg packages on plastic dyeing tubes measuring 11.4” x 3”. %BE is 19%. The following process conditions were established: steam pressure of 16 psig.

The feeding rate is 458 ypm.

Overfeeding rate is 55%

Haberly "A" Series Ceramic Spray Nozzle

The rate of water fed from boiling water is 40 ml/min.

Example 5

One warp yarn from a 165 dtex bicomponent PET/PTT fully stretched yarn was twisted with two warp yarns from an 83 dtex PET fully stretched yarn to produce 2 kg packages on a plastic dyeing tube with dimensions of 11.4” x 3”. %BE was 44%. The process conditions were established as follows: steam pressure was 36 psig.

The feeding rate is 482 ypm

Overfeeding rate is 45%

Haberly "A" Series Ceramic Spray Nozzle

The rate of water fed from boiling water is 40 ml/min.

1: Fix the yarn frame

2: Feeding the yarn

3: Automatic superfeeding roller

4: Applicator

5: Hot water tank

6: Steam supply source

7: Spraying lips

8: Driven traction rollers

9: Standard winding device

10: Cardboard or plastic dyeing tubes

Claims (13)

A method for steam jet volumizing of multi-component yarns, the method comprising: introducing hot water at a temperature of 70°C or higher into the multi-component yarn to maximize the yarn temperature; and using steam as a fluid medium and applying pressure to overfeed the multi-component yarn at a high rate into a knotting nozzle to provide partial hot volumizing and steam volumizing of the multi-component yarn, wherein the multi-component yarn is overfeeded at a rate greater than 30%, and the pressure is 10 psig to 60 psig. The method described in claim 1, wherein the coiled nozzle is an air-curled nozzle. The method of claim 1 further includes winding the resulting product onto a cardboard or plastic tube to allow direct processing of the warp-bulb multicomponent yarn in further textile processing equipment. As in claim 1, the multi-component yarns are twisted together at a point before entering the knotting nozzle. A multicomponent yarn, prepared by a steam jet volumizing process for multicomponent yarns as described in any of claims 1 to 4. A package comprising a multi-component yarn, as claimed in claim 5, wound on a cardboard or plastic tube. For example, in the package of claim 6, the package of the multi-component yarn wound in warp is made fluffy through thermal activation having a percentage bulkiness efficiency (%BE) greater than 15%. For example, the rolls requested in item 6 or 7 must have a roll weight greater than 1 kg. If the rolls requested are item 6 or 7, they have already been dyed. A stretch fabric comprising multi-component yarns as described in claim 5. An article comprising a multi-component yarn as described in claim 5. An article comprising the stretch fabric as described in claim 10. A multicomponent yarn having a percentage bulkiness (%BE) in the range of 15% to 67%, wherein the yarn is produced using a bicomponent PTT/PTT-fed yarn in the dtex range of 55 to 600 dtex, wherein the multicomponent yarn is produced by a steam jet bulking process for multicomponent yarns as described in any of claims 1 to 4.