TWI422396B - 氧化染毛劑及毛髮脫色劑 - Google Patents
氧化染毛劑及毛髮脫色劑 Download PDFInfo
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- TWI422396B TWI422396B TW098107513A TW98107513A TWI422396B TW I422396 B TWI422396 B TW I422396B TW 098107513 A TW098107513 A TW 098107513A TW 98107513 A TW98107513 A TW 98107513A TW I422396 B TWI422396 B TW I422396B
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- hair
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- 239000003051 hair bleaching agent Substances 0.000 title claims description 18
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- YZFOJNWVDCZGRX-MPQUPPDSSA-N C(CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)N[C@@H](CO)[C@@H](CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)O Chemical compound C(CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)N[C@@H](CO)[C@@H](CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)O YZFOJNWVDCZGRX-MPQUPPDSSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005151 Cholesterol Decanoate Substances 0.000 description 1
- AERBNCYCJBRYDG-UHFFFAOYSA-N D-ribo-phytosphingosine Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(O)C(N)CO AERBNCYCJBRYDG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- RJECHNNFRHZQKU-UHFFFAOYSA-N Oelsaeurecholesterylester Natural products C12CCC3(C)C(C(C)CCCC(C)C)CCC3C2CC=C2C1(C)CCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC)C2 RJECHNNFRHZQKU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 108010009736 Protein Hydrolysates Proteins 0.000 description 1
- XKMYWNHZAQUEPY-YZGJEOKZSA-N [(3s,8s,9s,10r,13r,14s,17r)-10,13-dimethyl-17-[(2r)-6-methylheptan-2-yl]-2,3,4,7,8,9,11,12,14,15,16,17-dodecahydro-1h-cyclopenta[a]phenanthren-3-yl] 12-hydroxyoctadecanoate Chemical compound C([C@@H]12)C[C@]3(C)[C@@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)CC[C@H]3[C@@H]1CC=C1[C@]2(C)CC[C@H](OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)CCCCCC)C1 XKMYWNHZAQUEPY-YZGJEOKZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JBBRZDLNVILTDL-XNTGVSEISA-N [(3s,8s,9s,10r,13r,14s,17r)-10,13-dimethyl-17-[(2r)-6-methylheptan-2-yl]-2,3,4,7,8,9,11,12,14,15,16,17-dodecahydro-1h-cyclopenta[a]phenanthren-3-yl] 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound C([C@@H]12)C[C@]3(C)[C@@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)CC[C@H]3[C@@H]1CC=C1[C@]2(C)CC[C@H](OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)C1 JBBRZDLNVILTDL-XNTGVSEISA-N 0.000 description 1
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- XUGISPSHIFXEHZ-VEVYEIKRSA-N cholesteryl acetate Chemical compound C1C=C2C[C@@H](OC(C)=O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@@H]2[C@@H]1[C@@H]1CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@@]1(C)CC2 XUGISPSHIFXEHZ-VEVYEIKRSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RJECHNNFRHZQKU-RMUVNZEASA-N cholesteryl oleate Chemical compound C([C@@H]12)C[C@]3(C)[C@@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)CC[C@H]3[C@@H]1CC=C1[C@]2(C)CC[C@H](OC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC)C1 RJECHNNFRHZQKU-RMUVNZEASA-N 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
- A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
- A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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- A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
Landscapes
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Biophysics (AREA)
- Molecular Biology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
本發明係有關氧化染毛劑及毛髮脫色劑。
以往，當施用氧化染毛劑及毛髮脫色劑時，由於該劑而對毛髮造成損傷，使施劑結束後之毛髮有變硬、觸感不佳等問題。以往，對此問題係藉由施加護髮劑或處理劑(亦即前處理劑及/或後處理劑)加以對應。
因此，為解決上述問題而有如下述之提案：
日本特開平11-349455號提出一種染毛劑，係由含有氧化染料中間體之第1劑與含有氧化劑之第2劑所組成之2劑型染毛劑，其特徵係：上述第1劑或第2劑之任一者或兩者含有蛋黃油(yolk oil)。
日本特開2002-322035號提出一種染毛處理劑，係由染毛處理前後所使用之前處理劑與後處理劑組成之染毛用處理劑，其特徵係：前處理劑含有角質(keratin)水解物及/或其衍生物，後處理劑含有至少一種選自神經醯胺、神經醯胺之衍生物、磷脂質以及磷脂質之衍生物所成組群者。此外，該文獻中記載該染毛處理劑復含有至少一種選自來自植物之蛋白質水解物、來自植物之蛋白質水解物的衍生物、來自蛋白之蛋白質水解物以及來自蛋白之蛋白質水解物的衍生物所成組群者。然而，上述處理劑並無法充分地解決上述問題，或發生如沾黏之情形而無法得到良好之毛髮質感。
[專利文獻1]日本特開平11-349455號
[專利文獻2]日本特開2002-322035號
本發明之目的係提供氧化染毛劑及毛髮脫色劑，係解決使用氧化染毛劑或毛髮脫色劑後之問題，換言之，當施用氧化染毛劑及毛髮脫色劑時，由於該劑而對毛髮造成損傷，使施劑結束後之毛髮有變硬、觸感不佳等之問題。
本發明者發現在施用氧化染毛劑及毛髮脫色劑時，使用符合解決上述問題之(1)神經醯胺類及/或固醇酯類、(2)卵磷脂或卵磷脂衍生物，以及(3)矽酮類[以下，上述(1)至(3)之3成分亦簡稱為3成分]，並且，該等3成分並不調配在前處理劑及/或後處理劑中，而是調配在氧化染毛劑及毛髮脫色劑(例如由第1劑與第2劑所組成之氧化染毛劑或毛髮脫色劑)本身中，而且，使上述3成分以特定之調配量調配，經染毛後(脫色後)之洗髮時，以手梳理的毛髮順暢不打結，染後之毛髮手感(滑順度、柔軟度)亦佳且具光澤並可持久，且在完成後毛髮之[色感]亦變佳，遂而達成本發明。特別是，如上所述，調配有3成分之氧化染毛劑在染後之手感(滑順度、柔軟度)亦佳且具光澤，而且全部完成後毛髮之[色感]亦變佳，並且如將本發明之氧化染毛劑使用在經染色之毛髮時，該等效果可進一步呈現。
本發明所使用之氧化染毛劑可廣泛使用習知之氧化染毛劑，其例可列舉如：由含有氧化染料中間體之第1劑與含有氧化劑之第2劑所組成之2劑型染毛劑。並且，本發明所使用之毛髮脫色劑亦可廣泛使用習知之毛髮脫色劑，其例可列舉如：由過硫酸鹽、鹼劑(粉末狀之物；矽酸鈉等)、增黏劑、賦形劑等組成之第1劑與雙氧水、界面活性劑等組成之第2劑所構成之漂白劑(powder bleach)；以及由鹼劑、界面活性劑等組成之第1劑與雙氧水、界面活性劑等組成之第2劑所構成之2劑型脫色劑等。
上述3成分在2劑所構成之氧化染毛劑或毛髮脫色劑中，可調配在上述第1劑與第2劑之任一劑中，或調配在兩劑中(實施例1至22係將上述3成分調配在第1劑中，而實施例23係將上述3成分調配在第2劑中)。
該3成分之調配量為了達到上述效果，神經醯胺類及/或固醇酯類之調配量一般為氧化染毛劑或毛髮脫色劑之總重量的0.005至2.5重量%，以0.025至1.5重量%為佳，以0.05至1重量%為更佳；而且卵磷脂或卵磷脂衍生物之調配量一般為0.005至1.5重量%，以0.025至1重量%為佳，以0.05至0.5重量%為更佳；並且矽酮類之調配量一般為0.025至5.0重量%，以0.05至2.5重量%為佳，以0.1至1.5重量%為更佳。然而，本發明所使用之氧化染毛劑或毛髮脫色劑並不僅限於2劑型者，亦可使用2劑以上所構成之劑型，例如3劑所構成之劑型者。另外，除了氧化染毛劑或毛髮脫色劑之外，上述3成分亦可調配在酸性染毛料中。
本發明所使用之神經醯胺類係包含神經醯胺及其衍生物。該神經醯胺及其衍生物可列舉如：在人類角質層之細胞間脂質中約佔50%的神經鞘脂(sphingolipid)(存在於人類角質層的神經醯胺可例舉如下述神經醯胺1至7之構造者)、植物神經醯胺之一種的由米糠(米胚芽)萃取精製而得之米糠神經鞘醣脂(Rice bran sphingoglycolipid)、作為神經醯胺前驅物且大多含在植物性神經醯胺中的植物鞘胺醇(Phytosphingosine)、N-硬脂醯氧基二十七烷醯基植物鞘胺醇、N-硬脂醯基植物鞘胺醇、N-硬脂醯基鞘胺醇、N-油醯基植物鞘胺醇、N-2-羥基硬脂醯基植物鞘胺醇等。
再者，本發明中可達到與神經醯胺類相同效果之物質，可使用固醇酯類取代上述神經醯胺類，亦可與上述神經醯胺類一起使用。該固醇酯類之例可列舉如：膽固醇乙酸酯、膽固醇壬酸酯、膽固醇硬脂酸酯、膽固醇異硬脂酸酯、膽固醇油酸酯、植物固醇油酸酯、N-月桂醯-L-麩胺酸二(膽固醇基/山嵛基/辛基月桂基)、N-月桂醯-L-麩胺酸二(膽固醇基/辛基月桂基)、N-月桂醯-L-麩胺酸二(植物固醇/山嵛基/辛基月桂基)、N-月桂醯-L-麩胺酸二(植物固醇/辛基月桂基)、膽固醇12-羥基硬脂酸酯、植物固醇12-羥基硬脂酸酯、膽固醇澳洲堅果油脂肪酸酯、植物固醇澳洲堅果油脂肪酸酯、植物固醇異硬脂酸酯、膽固醇軟質羊毛脂脂肪酸酯、膽固醇硬質羊毛脂脂肪酸酯、膽固醇長鏈分枝脂肪酸酯、膽固醇長鏈α-羥基脂肪酸酯等。
在該等膽固醇酯類中，以染完後毛髮之恰當的柔軟度之觀點而言，係以下述物質為佳：N-月桂醯-L-麩胺酸二(膽固醇基/山嵛基/辛基月桂基)、N-月桂醯-L-麩胺酸二(膽固醇基/辛基月桂基)、N-月桂醯-L-麩胺酸二(植物固醇/山嵛基/辛基月桂基)、N-月桂醯-L-麩胺酸二(植物固醇/辛基月桂基)、膽固醇軟質羊毛脂脂肪酸酯、膽固醇硬質羊毛脂脂肪酸酯、膽固醇長鏈分枝脂肪酸酯、膽固醇長鏈α-羥基脂肪酸酯等。
本發明中使用之卵磷脂係指含磷脂質之脂質製品，如原料可列舉如：以蛋黃為原料之「蛋黃卵磷脂」、以大豆為原料之「大豆卵磷脂」(例如：氫化大豆卵磷脂)等。
本發明中所使用之矽酮類，可使用一般化妝品原料所使用之矽酮。此種矽酮可列舉如：二甲基矽酮、胺基改質矽酮以及高聚合度矽酮等。
本發明之氧化染毛劑及毛髮脫色劑中，可依需要而調配一般氧化染毛劑及毛髮脫色劑中所使用之成分。
將Beaulax公司製造之髮束(BS-B3A)以一般漂白劑進行20分鐘之漂白處理。以經上述處理之髮束為B，以不經任何處理之髮束為A。使用下述表1至4之配方所構成之第1劑與表5之配方所示之第2劑以1：1之比例混合而成之染毛劑或脫色劑，塗佈於髮束後放置20分鐘後，以一般使用之洗髮精洗淨。然後，塗上護髮劑後進行沖水，再以吹風機使完全乾燥。將該結果示於下表。
另外，表中之←係指該欄之量與左欄所示調配量相同。
上表中，(2S,3R)-2-十八醯基胺基十八烷-1,3-二醇係相當於神經醯胺2之物質。
除了使用下表6所示配方之染髮劑第1劑以及下表7所示配方之染髮劑第2劑之外，對與上述實施例1至22以及比較例1至7之相同毛髮進行染色。
上述之表1至表4以及表7之評價係由專門評審員(美容師)依下述之評價基準進行。
將實施例1至23，以及比較例1至7之染毛劑或脫色劑塗佈於髮束A，放置20分鐘後，以一般使用之洗髮精洗
淨後，對以手梳理髮束之順暢度進行評價。
評價基準：◎：以手梳理之順暢度極佳○：以手梳理之順暢度良好△：以手梳理之順暢度尚可×：以手梳理之順暢度差，頭髮有糾結的情形
將上述髮束洗淨後，塗佈下述表8所示之護髮劑(1)並加以沖洗，以吹風機使之完全乾燥後再對其光澤度進行評價。
評價基準：◎：極有光澤○：有光澤△：稍有光澤×：毫無光澤，有毛茸茸感
對上述髮束之滑順度進行評價。評價基準：◎：滑順度極佳○：滑順度佳△：滑順度尚可×：有乾澀感
對上述髮束之柔軟度進行評價。評價基準：
◎：柔軟度極佳○：柔軟度佳△：柔軟度尚可×：有粗硬感
對上述髮束之色感進行評價。評價基準：◎：超入色，有亮麗感○：入色，有亮麗感△：稍有入色，有亮麗感×：有退色感
對上述各評價項目之效果可持續到何種程度之評估。評價基準：◎：各評價項目之效果持續1個月以上○：各評價項目之效果持續1個月△：各評價項目之效果持續2週×：各評價項目之效果無法持續
使用比較例8之第1劑與表5之第2劑以1：1之比例混合而成之染毛劑進行塗佈並放置20分鐘後，以一般使用之洗髮精洗淨。然後，塗佈上述表8之護髮劑(2)後進行沖水，再以吹風機使完全乾燥。評價基準係與上述1至6之評價基準的相同方法進行。
分別使用實施例3及比較例8之第1劑與表5所示之第2劑以1：1之比例混合而成之染毛劑，塗佈於髮束A並放置20分鐘後，以一般使用之洗髮精洗淨。然後，塗佈上述表8所示之護髮劑(1)後進行沖水，再以吹風機使完全乾燥。
分別使用實施例3及比較例8之第1劑與表5所示之第2劑以1：1之比例混合而成之染毛劑，塗佈於髮束B並放置20分鐘後，以一般使用之洗髮精洗淨。然後，塗佈上述表8所示之護髮劑(1)後進行沖水，再以吹風機使完全乾燥。
將染毛劑塗佈於髮束，放置20分鐘後，以一般使用之洗髮精洗淨後，對以手梳理髮束之順暢度，對實施例3之評價結果高出比較例8之評價結果的程度進行評價。
5：以手梳理之順暢度大為提高
4：以手梳理之順暢度提高
3：以手梳理之順暢度稍有提高
2：以手梳理之順暢度相同
1：以手梳理之順暢度變差
將上述髮束洗淨後，塗佈下述表8所示之護髮劑(1)並加以沖洗，以吹風機使之完全乾燥後，對其光澤度評價實施例3之評價結果高出比較例8之評價結果的程度。
5：光澤度大為提高
4：光澤度提高
3：光澤度稍有提高
2：光澤度相同
1：光澤度變差
對於上述髮束之滑順度，評價實施例3之評價結果高出比較例8之評價結果的程度。
5：滑順度大為提高
4：滑順度提高
3：滑順度稍有提高
2：滑順度相同
1：滑順度變差
對於上述髮束之柔軟度，評價實施例3之評價結果高出比較例8之評價結果的程度。
5：柔軟度大為提高
4：柔軟度提高
3：柔軟度稍有提高
2：柔軟度相同
1：柔軟度變差
對於上述髮束之色感，評價實施例3之評價結果高出比較例8之評價結果的程度。
5：色感大為提高
4：色感提高
3：色感稍有提高
2：色感相同
1：色感變差
對於上述各評價項目之效果可持續到何種程度，評價實施例3之評價結果高出比較例8之評價結果的程度。
5：持久度大為提高
4：持久度提高
3：持久度稍有提高
2：持久度相同
1：持久度變差
依上述實施例24以及25之評價基準，將上述評價項目之評價結果示於下表9。
Claims (3)
- 一種氧化染毛劑，其中，至少含有0.005至2.5重量%之神經醯胺類及/或固醇酯類，0.005至1.5重量%之卵磷脂或卵磷脂衍生物，以及0.025至5重量%之矽酮類。
- 如申請專利範圍第1項之氧化染毛劑，其係用於經染色之毛髮者。
- 一種毛髮脫色劑，其中，至少含有0.005至2.5重量%之神經醯胺類及/或固醇酯類，0.005至1.5重量%之卵磷脂或卵磷脂衍生物，以及0.025至5重量%之矽酮類。
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| EP2906301B1 (en) | 2012-10-15 | 2022-09-07 | L'Oréal | Aqueous wax dispersions and hair styling compositions containing them |
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| US10413496B2 (en) | 2012-10-15 | 2019-09-17 | L'oreal | Aqueous wax dispersions |
| US9566221B2 (en) | 2012-11-09 | 2017-02-14 | L'oreal | Methods for altering the color and appearance of hair |
| BR112015010449B1 (pt) | 2012-11-09 | 2019-12-24 | Oreal | método para alterar a aparência do cabelo |
| US10653611B2 (en) * | 2013-09-02 | 2020-05-19 | L'oreal | Hair care composition comprising amino silicone, fatty alcohol and paraffin oil |
| US10561596B2 (en) | 2014-04-11 | 2020-02-18 | L'oreal | Compositions and dispersions containing particles comprising a polymer |
| JP6640483B2 (ja) * | 2015-07-31 | 2020-02-05 | ホーユー株式会社 | 染毛剤組成物 |
| FR3089794B1 (fr) * | 2018-12-18 | 2021-01-29 | Oreal | Composition solide pour la coloration ou l’éclaircissement des fibres kératiniques comprenant un phospholipide |
| JP7299760B2 (ja) * | 2019-05-31 | 2023-06-28 | 高砂香料工業株式会社 | マスキング香料組成物 |
| DE102019218231A1 (de) * | 2019-11-26 | 2021-05-27 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Mittel zum Färben von keratinischem Material mit Aminosilikon, farbgebender Verbindung und phosphorhaltigem Tensid |
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