1230750 玖、發明說明 【發明所屬之技術領域】 本發明爲關於一種複合紡織紗，用於形成透汗構造 (moisture management structure)。更精確言之，其係關於 一種包含嵌進一或多個疏水性纖維基體（matrix)內之親水 性纖維的改良型透汗紡織複合紗，其中在纖維樣式之間具 有漸進的變化區。此變化區起始於親水性纖維集中的複合 紗中心，並擴展至疏水性纖維佔大多數的最外層。此外， 本發明爲關於一種改良的透汗布料及衣服，其藉由單獨使 用前述複合紡織紗或與其他紗結合使用而製得。 【先前技術】 近幾年來，「結構性布料（structured fabrics)」（亦稱爲「工 藝化布料」（engineered fabrics))在許多具有商業方面的應 用領域變得非常熱門。此種結構布料之一特別重要的種類 一般稱爲「透汗」（moisture management)布料。一般而言， 此類布料利用二或多種纖維樣式在層疊構造中形成，使得 布料的二側在特性上相當不同。特別是，布料各側對於水 和水蒸氣顯現出不同的性能特徵和性質。最內層，或與穿 著者身體接觸的布料側，實質上包含疏水性纖維，而最外 層實質上則由親水性纖維所構成。 應用於透汗之質輕、雙面布料亦藉由「平板編織（plate knitting)(平織）」技術而製造。在平板編織此種布料時， 將疏水性和親水性紗二者同時喂入單一的編織針組中，使 得該二種不同的紗通過該組針中的個別的針。小心控制疏 6 312/發明說明書(補件)/92-06/92107376 1230750 水性和親水性紗的喂入和定位，所得之「平板狀」布料將 在一側僅顯示疏水性紗而另一側則僅顯示親水性紗。 透汗布料最主要的最終應用領域爲，但非限制於，運動 服、工作服、貼身內衣服、練習服和鞋類。在使用中實際 上與穿著者身體接觸的衣服中，透汗布料甩於防止或減少 對穿著者身上和靠近其身體之布料層的汗水液之聚集。液 體或蒸氣形式的汗水離開皮膚表面，並透過疏水性纖維的 擴散或芯吸（wick)，而被最外邊布料層的親水性纖維所吸 收。自皮膚表面通過疏水性纖維的汗水被外層親水性纖維 所吸收，然後離開身體並蒸發至大氣中。以此方式之自穿 著者身體至大氣中的水分傳輸，因可防止或減少皮膚表面 或靠近皮膚之布料層形成潮濕的區域，因而可增進穿著者 的舒適度。此外，藉由避免身體表面和靠近身體之布料的 汗水液之聚集，而可改善衣服的保溫値（insulating value)，使得穿著者在低溫下感到更爲溫暖，而在高溫時 因蒸發冷卻效果而感到更爲涼爽。 使得來自汗水液體和蒸氣的水分藉由前述方法而傳輸 的驅動力，有時亦稱作「推拉」（p u s h - p u 11)作用。換言之， 汗水是被疏水性纖維層所排斥而被「推」或「芯吸」（wicked) 至親水性纖維層，此處它是被吸收或「拉」走。事實上， 自皮膚至外部大氣的水分移動是藉由穿著者皮膚的內層和 大氣之間濕度上的極大差異値而所驅動。此外’藉由疏水 性和親水性纖維的結構性編排，可促進並自人身體導至此 種移動。 312/發明說明書(補件)/92-06/92107376 !23〇750 雖然透汗布料可用織布機製得，但大部分商業上感興趣 的此類布料係藉整經（warp)或圓形編織設備編織所製得。 可選擇的疏水性纖維一般爲聚酯、尼龍、或聚丙嫌聚合物 的熔紡（melt-spun)。這些纖維可爲短纖維紗、扁平連續複 絲、或變形連續複絲的形式。對於布料的親水側，最常使 用的纖維是變形（modified)的尼龍聚合物之基質者。通常 ’此種尼龍聚合物係藉由在聚合反應步驟期間對尼龍聚合 物鏈進行化學變性而賦予其親水性質。此係藉由化學添加 親水性部位做爲尼龍聚合物鏈內的片段或化學連接親水性 部位做爲尼龍聚合物鏈的分枝而達成。或者，尼龍纖維可 藉由使纖維進行將親水性部位在纖維表面或非常靠近表面 而連接至尼龍聚合物的化學反應，而使其具有話題之親水 性質。其他較少見的親水性纖維則是由變性之聚乙烯醇、 丙烯酸系、和醋酸纖維素聚合物而製得。此處再次提醒， 親水性纖維可爲短纖維紗、扁平連續複絲、或變形連續複 絲的形式。在某些情況下，棉線和變性之棉紗亦可使用做 爲親水性成分。 即使先前技藝之結構性布料在市場上已爲人所接受，其 仍有一些缺點限制它們在某些應用上的效用。其中一個較 爲重要的問題是’必須使用最少二條紗線之編織或織布設 備才能製得具有不同二側的布料。此種設備的使用導致產 品成本相當高。其他的問題例則如下所說明。 在大部分的情形下，在特定透汗結構中所使用之親水性 和疏水性纖維之間的可染色性和染料牢固性質存有極大差 8 312/發明說明書(補件)/92-06/92107376 1230750 異。由於此種差異，其難以且有甚至不可能製造染有均勻 色彩的布料。時常地，爲了獲得可以接受的結果，必須採 用二或多種染色類型以及多重染色循環。如此則會實質地 增加透汗布料的染色和完工成本。 如上所述’基於先前技藝的透汗布料係形成使得與穿著 者皮膚表面接觸的布料側爲疏水性的，同時外部布料表面 含有親水性纖維。此對透汗布料在某些重要應用上產生一 嚴重的問題。尤其是對運動服和促銷品項目（其衣服外部表 面上時常網印或轉印有名字、商標和其他顯著的設計特徵） ia成問過。此嚴重的問題會發生是因爲基於變性尼龍聚合 物的較佳之親水性纖維，其對於做爲一般使用之網印和轉 印染料和墨水的基質而言表現非常差。結果，要廣泛範圍 地將明亮鮮豔的設計印刷到先前技藝的透汗布料上不是不 可能就是非常昂貴。將親水性紗夾在兩疏水性紗之間並將 其喂入單一編織針組中的夾合平織（s a n d w i c h - p 1 a t e knitting)技術，以此種編織技術藉由形成夾合式的外部布 料表面或藉由形成布料的兩側，在一定程度內能夠改善印 刷問題。雖然此方法可確實將疏水性纖維定位在外部布料 表面使其可接受網印和轉印，但實際上其仍是一種相當困 難的技術，因爲必須將三種紗線以固定的順序喂入各個單 獨的針內。此外，不同的紗線在製造和處理時很容易就會 滑出定位（r e g i s t e r)。如此缺乏精確定位的夾合式紗構造會 導致印刷模糊。 變性之尼龍聚合物基質之較佳親水性纖維的機械性 9 312/發明說明書(補件)/92-06/92107376 1230750 質’包括耐磨性，正常爲低於大部分一般所使用的疏水性 纖維’諸如聚醋和聚丙烯。此會使編織複雜化且限制可成 功使用該等結構的應用領域。 一般使用的疏水性和親水性纖維的觸摸性質時常相當 地不同。儘管對較少使用的夾合式平織布料並不成問題， 但一般較常使用的透汗布料的兩側則顯現出極爲不同的 「手感」或「感覺」依所觸摸的布料表面而定。如此在某 些應用上，諸如貼身內衣服，則會是一嚴重的缺點。 在裁切和縫製二側具有相當不同性質的透汗布料成爲 衣服、鞋類和其他最終應用項目的過程中，必須非常小心 注意維持布料表面適當的定向和定位。若製造最終項目時 弄錯成反面側，則所得產品將無法有效地透汗。 頒予Hozuma Okada的美國專利第4,62 1，48 9號揭示一種 利用包芯紗的紡織布料，該布料聲稱可透氣，使得與穿著 者皮膚接觸的外部纖維實質上能夠全天候保持乾燥，甚至 汗水產生水蒸氣時亦然。該包芯紗包含由一束內部親水性 纖維所組成的線團，以及由複數個設置在線團外側而實質 上完全包覆內部纖維的外部疏水性纖維所組成的線套 (thread wadding) ° 【發明內容】 本發明之主要目的在於提供一種同時具有親水和疏水 性質的結構化複合紗，其可單獨使用或與其他疏水性紗結 合使用，以製得高效能的透汗布料。其進一步的目的則在 於使用一種包含親水性纖維嵌進疏水性纖維基體內的複合 10 312/發明說明書(補件)/92-06/92107376 1230750 糸單獨或結合一或多種疏水性紗，以形成被編 的汗布料。所得的透汗布料比習知布料具有相 異之透汗性質，同時可實質地克服前述習知技藝 透汗紗和布料之利用性的缺點。 本發明藉由使用空氣纏結（a i r e n t a n g丨e m e n t)變 一複絲的親水性紗沿著一複絲的疏水性紗插入一 或變形裝置以形成複合紗而可滿足前述目的。藉 制喂入速率、氣體壓力和進入噴氣之二種不同紗 料張力’離開噴氣纏結機的複合紗在其核心具有 中的親水性纖維，同時疏水性纖維則實質上集中 圍。所得的複合紗並沒有淸楚的劃分區域區分疏 纖維和親水性核心纖維。更確切地說，複合紗的 實質上係由疏水性纖維所組成，而親水性纖維則 合紗的中心。一包含親水性和疏水性纖維之混合 層落在介於複合紗的中心和外部表面之間。 已知出現在複合紗橫剖面之截面內的緊密混雜 性和親水性絲會導致比根據例如前述Okada專利 製備的習知之皮芯複合紗更快速通過外圍疏水性 到集中在中心之親水性纖維的水分傳遞。以類似 親水性和疏水性纖維緊密混雜的區域會加速來自 性纖維通過疏水性纖維而進入到大氣中的蒸氣形 移轉。 紗截面內親水性和疏水性纖維混雜的區域對於 之複合紗的透汗布料的優異效能非常地重要。此 312/發明說明書(補件)/92-〇6/92浙训 織及織成 同或較優 所限制之 形設備將 噴氣纏結 由小心控 的相對喂 實質上集 在其外 水性表面 外部表面 集中在複 物的過渡 的疏水 的教示所 纖維而進 的方法， 內部親水 式的水分 本發明 可以藉由 11 1230750 比較習知技藝之皮芯水分複合紗（其中親水性核心紗被疏 水性纖維緊緊地包覆）而了解。在此種紗線中，疏水性纖維 和親水性纖維之間的介面係與核心處親水性整捆纖維的半 徑平方成正比。對於本發明之複合紗，混雜疏水性和親水 性纖維之個別的長絲導致實質上更大的介面區域。此增大 的原因是因爲複合紗之混雜區域內的介面係與疏水性和親 水性紗之遠爲細小的個別長絲的半徑平方成正比。疏水性 和親水性成分之間的介面區域的增加不會增加可被複合紗 所帶走的水分的總量。然而，介面的增加會增加吸收的動 能，而使得透汗布料內水分的移轉變得更加快速和有效。 當衣服接觸到穿著者之皮膚表面時，此獨特的複合紗結 構導致一有效率且可迅速從與皮膚表面接觸之外部疏水性 纖維至紗的內部親水性纖維的汗水的芯吸（Wick)作用。在 遠離穿著者身體的衣服表面上，水分從內部親水性纖維通 過外部疏水性纖維而蒸發至大氣中。 在雙側透汗布料中，本發明之複合紗置換習知技藝中位 在透汗布料之外部布料表面的親水性紗。所得的雙側布料 具有一側由疏水性紗製得，而另一側則單獨含有本發明之 複合紗或其與疏水性紗的結合。在與穿著者身體接觸之透 汗衣服或其他最終應用的物品中，來自汗水的水分由皮膚 表面通過內部布料層的疏水性纖維，且之後通過外圍疏水 性基體，而進入外層複合紗的內部親水性纖維中。最後， 水分自親水性纖維蒸發，並通過複合紗的疏水性外圍纖 維，而進到大氣之中。 12 312/發明說明書(補件)/92-06/92107376 1230750 藉由使用本發明之獨特的結構化複合親水性/疏水性 紗製造透汗布料和衣服，可避免前述之習知技藝相關之產 品的問題。這些顯著改善的原因在下段中扼要敘述。 藉由對本發明之複合紗中之疏水性纖維基體內嵌進潔 淨 '晦暗或略爲灰色的親水性纖維，其可只對疏水性纖維 染色而留下親水性纖維未染色，因爲其實質上係被外部疏 水性纖維所隱蔽。又，若使用一種如聚酯的纖維做爲疏水 性成分’其將可在紗和布料表面立即接受網印和轉印。同 樣的理由’布料觸摸性質將主要取決於複合紗表面的疏水 性纖維。此外，布料的機械性質，像是耐磨性，則將主要 受複合紗結構的疏水性成分所控制。 本發明較習知技藝·爲優的一個額外特點是，其複合紗的 獨特特性可使從單一複合紗來製造透汗布料。本發明之此 一特徵可使比習知技藝所揭示之技術要求使用二或多種不 同的紗之要求更爲簡單和以更低成本的編織設備和方法來 製造。取決於所使用的編織技術，所得的透汗布料的二側 可以相同。這是本發明之一重要優點，因爲以具有可交換 二側面的布料，在製造最終產品時，工人在進行裁切和縫 製作業時則不會搞錯布料側。使用本發明之複合紗所製得 之單一紗布料具有相同的疏水性纖維曝露在二側。在衣服 中，疏水性纖維係與穿著者的身體緊密接觸。汗水因芯吸 現象快速地進入複合紗的空隙，而被嵌進疏水性纖維基體 內的親水性纖維所吸收。然後，水分透過親水性纖維傳送 到外部布料表面’而自親水性纖維蒸發，且蒸氣通過外部 312/發明說明書(補件)/92-06/92107376 ι 1230750 疏水性纖維進到大氣中。此水分傳輸現係均以相同的效率 產生，而與和穿著者接觸的布料表面和曝露至大氣與否無 關’因爲水分係自高濕度的皮膚表面移動到低濕度的大氣 中 〇 本發明之複合紗對製造類似習知技藝之布料結構的雙 側透汗布料尤爲有用。然而，在此種利用本發明之複合紗 的布料中，複合紗取代了習知技藝之成衣中遠離穿著者身 體之布料外部層所使用的親水性紗。取決於結構化透汗布 料和最終端使用衣服所希望之功效，其可單獨使用或與疏 水性紗結合使用本發明之複合紗於雙側布料的兩側。當使 用本發明之複合紗製造雙側布料時，疏水性纖維係同時在 完成品的布料的內部層和外部層的表面。結果，其可在布 料的任一側或兩側進行轉印或網印，使得複雜設計的印刷 和明亮、色彩淸晰的圖案可在完成的成衣的任一面或兩面 上顯現而不會有對主要由親水性纖維，例如變性之尼龍爲 主的纖維以網印和轉印所生之複雜性。 本發明的此些和其他目的、特徵和優點可參照以下詳盡 的說明和申請專利範圍以及圖式而變得更加明白。 【實施方式】 本發明提供一種複合紗，其包含疏水性和親水性纖維二 者的結合’其中親水性纖維係集中在紗的內部而疏水性纖 維則集中在外圍，同時在紗中心和其外圍之間的中間區域 內爲混雜二種絲之類型。又，本發明提供一種藉由僅使用 本發明之複合紗或者藉由在將與穿著者身體接觸之布料側 14 312/發明說明書(補件)/92-06/92107376 1230750 使用疏水性紗和在遠離穿著者身體之布料側使用本發明之 複合紗而製成之闻度有效的透汗布料。此外，本發明提供 一種藉由僅使用本發明之複合紗或者藉由在將與穿著者身 體接觸之布料側使用疏水性紗和在遠離穿著者身體之布料 側使用與一或多種疏水性紗捻合之本發明之複合紗而製成 之高度有效的透汗布料。同樣地，於製造透汗布料時，本 發明之複合紗可與一或多種疏水性紗捻合並可不與其他紗 一起使用。 其中親水性和疏水性纖維混雜之複合紗截面內在內部 親水性纖維集中區和外圍疏水性纖維集中區的環型 (annular)區域係本發明之複合紗重要且獨特的一個特徵。 習知的皮芯複合物’在紗截面內疏水性和親水性纖維之間 有一淸楚的過渡區。其結果，水分必·須自疏水性纖維橫貫 其至親水性纖維的介面則受到大大的限制。藉由在複合物 截面內提供一混雜疏水性和親水性纖維的區域，本發明之 複合紗可大大地增加每單位介面長度之水分必須自其穿透 而被親水性纖維所吸收的區域面積。此一*增加的每單位長 度之介面區域面積對水分轉移的動能起作用，而可增進轉 移之速率和效率。 本發明之複合紗的親水性纖維成分可爲連續扁平複絲 紗、連續變形複絲紗、或短纖維紗的形式。疏水性纖維亦 可爲扁平複絲紗、變形複絲紗、或短纖維紗的形式。然而， 若疏水性紗線爲短纖維紗的形式的話，則必須特別注意複 合紗的形成，以避免短纖維紗斷裂。此外，對於要求有高 15 312/發明說明書(補件)/9106/92107376 1230750 耐磨性的應用方面，疏水性成分的較佳形式則係連續扁平 或變形複絲紗。 圖1表示本發明大致標註爲3之複合紗之以垂直於縱軸 所取之典型截面輪廓的放大圖。親水性絲1被示爲陰影開 口圓形，而疏水性絲2則被示爲無陰影之開口圓形。由圖 1中可以見到，親水性絲係集中靠近截面的中心，而疏水 性絲則集中在複合紗的外圍。可以淸楚地見到親水性和疏 水性絲在複合紗的中心和外圍之間的中間區域混雜，而無 明顯的介面。 圖2表示沿著本發明之複合紗3之縱軸的放大圖，並顯 示親水性絲1集中靠近由疏水性絲2基體所環繞的紗芯。 和圖1 一樣，圖2說明親水性和疏水性纖維在複合紗的中 心和其外部表面之間的中間區域的混雜情形。此外，圖2 的略圖說明疏水性纖維2沿著複合紗3之縱軸而自紗外圍 至主要混雜之過渡地帶的漸進遷移，且甚至進入親水性纖 維1集中之中心區域內。同樣地，親水性纖維1在複合紗 3之中心地帶和疏水性纖維2集中之外圍之間遷移。此紗 線內纖維位置的物理交換具有加速水分傳輸進集中在複合 紗中心之親水性纖維1的功效。 依最終成品的應用而定，對於透汗布料之最佳的機械和 舒適效能所需之親水性纖維的比例，可自低的8至1 〇 %到 高的60至75 %重量比。此外，由經濟觀點而言，布料結構 內最好是避免使用比最佳透汗效能所需之量還多的親水性 纖維，因爲親水性纖維的成本實質上高於疏水性纖維。 16 312/發明說明書(補件)/92-06/92107376 1230750 本發明之透汗布料的親水性纖維含量可藉由調整製備 本發明之複合紗時所使用之疏水性對親水性纖維的比例而 改變。然而實務上，製造有限量之具有固定親水性纖維含 量的本發明標準之複合紗，然後藉由捻合一或多種疏水性 紗之複合紗而在完成的透汗布料調整親水性紗的含量，通 常是比較經濟的。圖3顯示本發明之複合紗3的放大側視 圖，其具有親水性纖維1和疏水性纖維2，二者均與基本 上包含1 0 0 %之疏水性絲之連續複絲之疏水性紗4相捻 合。以同樣方式，圖4說明本發明之複合紗3的放大側視 圖，其與二種各自基本上包含1 〇 0 %之疏水性絲之連續複絲 之疏水性紗4和5相捨合。該二種疏水性紗4和5可爲相 同或不同，依捻合之複合紗和透汗布料所要求的功效而 定。舉例而言，其中一疏水性紗可爲聚酯基質者，而另一 者則是聚丙烯基質者。此外，爲了獲得具有柔軟手感（亦 即，柔軟觸感）和高耐磨性的布料，本發明之複合紗可與其 一包含正常I·5至3丹尼（denier)之範圍的單絲的聚酯紗線 相捻合，而另一則包含低於1丹尼之微量的單一細絲。 透汗布料內的親水性纖維含量亦可藉由對本發明之複 合紗3和疏水性紗更迭編織過程而調整。 圖5之略圖顯示本發明同時含有親水性纖維1和疏水性 纖維2之單一複合紗3所製得之平面編織布料的放大平面 圖。由於本發明之複合紗獨特的結構和性質，此種簡單的 布料結構可有效於從穿著者皮膚表面處之高濕度大氣中吸 收汗水，然後自內部親水性纖維通過至另一布料側的疏水 17 312/發明說明書(補件)/92-06/921〇7376 l23〇75〇 1'生基體纖維，而蒸發所吸收的水分進入到周圍低濕度的環 境內。其與習知技藝之布料呈強烈的對比，本發明之布料 自穿著者之皮膚的濕氣傳送至大氣中的作用非常優秀，不 管是任一布料側與身體接觸均然。此外，由於布料兩側的 外部表面係實質上由疏水性布料所構成，而由單一複合紗 布料所成的衣服可立即在布料任一側或兩側上接受網印及 轉印圖案。 使用在本發明之複合紗中最令人感興趣的疏水性纖維 具有低的水分回潮値（r e g a i η V a 1 u e)。多數現行之透汗布料 和衣服之最終使用的較佳疏水性纖維係來自於聚酯或尼龍 聚合物。其他可使用在本發明之複合紗的疏水性纖維包括 來自於：聚丙烯、聚乙烯氯和聚丙烯腈聚合物的纖維。雖 然來自於聚酯和程度上較少的尼龍聚合物的疏水性纖維對 於現行商業上關注的大多數透汗布料和衣服而言係較佳 者，但實際選擇供使用於特定應用的疏水性纖維必須依據 經濟和最終應用的需求來選擇。 使用於本發明之複合紗的親水性纖維必須具有高水分 回潮値。較佳之親水性纖維係變性之6-或66-尼龍聚合物 之基質。一種尤爲有用的變性之6-尼龍纖維係商品名爲 「Hydrofil」者。AlliedSignal公司是此一產品原始的開發 者和供應者；但現在其係由環球纖維系統（Universal Fiber System, LLC)所製造和供應。其他變性之尼龍基質的產品 可供本發明之複合紗使用做爲親水性成分的有用產品包括 商品名「Quup」和「Hygra」所銷售的纖維。日本的東麗 18 312/發明說明書(補件V92-〇6/92!07376 1230750 尼龍公司以熔融擠塑變性之6 -尼龍來生產連續複絲形式 的「Quup」°「Hygra」亦是在日本生產和供應。其爲結構 化皮芯雙成分纖維，其中個別連續絲的外表面包含有疏水 性6-尼龍，而其芯則包含親水性變性之6-尼龍。此種纖維 係由優尼吉嘉公司所生產和供應。其他較少注意的親水性 纖維包括：棉、醋酸纖維素短纖維紗和絲、嫘縈、亞麻材 料、變性之丙烯酸系纖維和變性之聚乙烯醇。 如上所述，本發明之複合紗包含嵌進變形疏水性纖維基 體內的親水性纖維。根據最終產品所需要的效果，親水性 纖維可爲扁平連續絲、變形連續絲或短纖維紗的形式。疏 水性基體成分亦可爲扁平或變形連續絲的形式；但短纖維 紗的形式則較不適當，因爲空氣纏結設備內的噴氣會有使 短纖維紗斷裂之虞。 雖然亦可能有其他方法，但製造本發明之複合紗的較佳 方法係將二種纖維類型一起通過噴氣變形設備中一般所使 用之類型的噴氣。爲了確保所得之複合紗中親水性纖維朝 中心且疏水性纖維朝外圍集中，必須小心控制喂入速率。 此一目的可藉由在張力下喂入親水性纖維而達成，同時疏 水性纖維係被予以超喂。使用於製造本發明之複合紗的噴 氣紗線變形機係由一些紡織機械製造商所供應。這些製造 商中有法國的ICBT、德國的Staehle和義大利的 Menegatto。圖6說明疏水性和親水性纖維在由例如前述之 製造商所供應之噴氣變形機中的典型途徑。 在圖6中，一積極驅動器以固定速率和控制張力下將親 19 312/發明說明書(補件)/92-06/92107376 !230750 水性複絲連續紗1通過入口導件8而喂入噴氣變形裝置之 噴氣腔室9中。一超喂組合件將疏水性複絲紗2拉過供應 箱尾端，並將其以比使用於親水性紗者更高的喂入速率， 通過入口導件8而喂入噴氣腔室9。所喂入之親水性和疏 水性紗之重量相對速率必須調整使得最終的複合紗含有最 少8重量％但不多於75重量％的親水性纖維。在某一程度 上，可藉由超喂疏水性纖維達60%以使調整喂料。此外， 調整亦可藉由選擇不同的親水性和疏水性紗之丹尼（亦 即，大小）來進行以製造複合紗。在離開噴氣腔室9時，複 合紗通過一熱固化組合件1 〇。最後，一捲繞組合件1 1則 將複合紗捲成筒管（bobbin)12。 當親水性紗1和疏水性紗2通過噴氣腔室9內所維持的 猛烈、高速的空氣流時，由於喂料控制組合件6所維持的 控制張力，親水性絲可實質上保持它們的完整性。過度喂 入的疏水性紗2的個別單絲則被噴氣腔室裡的氣流猛烈地 吹擊。結果，在張力下的親水性絲被集中在離開噴氣腔室 之複合紗的中心和其附近，而疏水性絲則集中在外圍。 當在一噴氣或其他變形設備使熱塑性纖維變形時，纖維 在其離開機器的變形區域時被熱固化。圖6顯示一熱固化 腔室10正在噴氣腔室9下面。然而，由變性之尼龍聚合物 製得之親水性纖維，若曝露至一般使用於以聚酯爲基質和 某些其他之疏水性纖維的熱固化溫度的話，可能會熔化掉 。因此，當製造本發明之複合紗時，需要將使用於熱固化 疏水性纖維的溫度和停留時間最小化。對於某些疏水性和 20 312/發明說明書(補件)/92-06/92107376 1230750 親水性纖維的結合，則不可能適當地熱固化複合紗的疏水 性成分而不會損害到親水性纖維。在此種情形下’可藉由 首先變形並熱固化疏水性成分，且之後使預變形之疏水性 和親水性纖維通過噴氣變形設備，而無須加溫至熱固化區 域，如此而可製得良好品質的複合紗。此外，依複合紗所 需之性能特徵而定，較佳者爲可使親水性和疏水性紗同時 通過噴氣變形機而無須熱固化。特別是若需要非常質輕的 複合紗時，則應該如此。 【圖式簡單說明】 圖1表示本發明之複合紗內典型疏水性/親水性纖維分 布的放大圖，爲以與紗結構的長軸呈直角所取的截面略圖。 圖2表示本發明之複合紗內疏水性和親水性纖維之典型 分布的放大圖，爲沿著紗結構之長軸的側視略圖。 圖3表示本發明之複合紗與疏水性絲之紗捻合的放大 圖。 圖4表示本發明之複合紗與兩條疏水性紗捻合的放大 圖。 圖5表示根據本發明藉由僅使用單一疏水性^/親水性複 合紗以製造其中兩側實質上相同的結構，而形成一平織透 汗布料的放大平面圖。 圖6表示疏水性和親水性纖維在一噴氣變形機上處理以 製造本發明之複合紗的典型通道之槪要圖。 (元件符號說明） 1 親水性絲 21 312/發明說明書(補件)/92-06/92107376 1230750 2 疏 水 性 絲 3 複 合 紗 4 疏 水 性 紗 5 疏 水 性 紗 6 喂 料 控 制 組 合件 7 超 喂 組 合 件 8 入 □ 導 件 9 噴 氣 腔 室 10 熱 固 化 組 合 件 11 捲 繞 組 合 件 12 筒 管 312/發明說明書(補件)/92-06/921073761230750 发明 Description of the invention [Technical field to which the invention belongs] The present invention relates to a composite textile yarn for forming a sweat management structure. More specifically, it relates to an improved sweat-permeable textile composite yarn comprising hydrophilic fibers embedded in one or more hydrophobic fiber matrices, in which there is a zone of gradual change between fiber patterns. This zone of change starts at the center of the composite yarn where the hydrophilic fibers are concentrated, and extends to the outermost layer where the majority of the hydrophobic fibers are. In addition, the present invention relates to an improved sweat-permeable cloth and clothes, which are produced by using the aforementioned composite textile yarns alone or in combination with other yarns. [Previous Technology] In recent years, "structured fabrics" (also known as "engineered fabrics") have become very popular in many business applications. One of the particularly important types of structural fabrics of this type is commonly referred to as "moisture management" fabrics. Generally, such cloths are formed in a laminated structure using two or more fiber patterns, so that the two sides of the cloth are quite different in characteristics. In particular, each side of the fabric exhibits different performance characteristics and properties for water and water vapor. The innermost layer, or the side of the cloth that is in contact with the wearer's body, contains substantially hydrophobic fibers, while the outermost layer consists essentially of hydrophilic fibers. Lightweight, double-sided fabrics used for perspiration are also manufactured using "plate knitting" technology. When flat-knitting such fabrics, both hydrophobic and hydrophilic yarns are fed into a single knitting needle group at the same time so that the two different yarns pass through individual needles in the group of needles. Carefully control the feeding and positioning of sparse 6 312 / Invention Specification (Supplement) / 92-06 / 92107376 1230750 Water-based and hydrophilic yarns, the resulting "flat" fabric will only show hydrophobic yarns on one side and the other side Only hydrophilic yarns are shown. The main end-use areas for sweat-wicking fabrics are, but are not limited to, sportswear, workwear, undergarments, exercise clothes, and footwear. In clothes that actually come into contact with the wearer's body during use, sweat-permeable fabrics are thrown away to prevent or reduce the accumulation of sweat on the wearer and the layers of fabric near the body. Sweat in the form of liquid or vapor leaves the skin surface and is absorbed by the hydrophilic fibers of the outermost cloth layer through the diffusion or wicking of the hydrophobic fibers. Sweat that passes through hydrophobic fibers from the skin surface is absorbed by the outer hydrophilic fibers, then leaves the body and evaporates into the atmosphere. In this way, moisture transmission from the wearer's body to the atmosphere can prevent or reduce the formation of moist areas on the surface of the skin or the layer of fabric close to the skin, thereby increasing the comfort of the wearer. In addition, by avoiding the accumulation of sweat on the surface of the body and the cloth close to the body, the insulation value of clothes can be improved, making the wearer feel warmer at low temperatures, and due to evaporative cooling effects at high temperatures Feeling cooler. The driving force that causes moisture from sweat liquids and vapors to be transmitted by the aforementioned method is sometimes referred to as a "push-pull" (p u s h-p u 11) effect. In other words, sweat is “repelled” or “wicked” by the hydrophobic fiber layer to the hydrophilic fiber layer, where it is absorbed or “pulled” away. In fact, the movement of moisture from the skin to the outside atmosphere is driven by the great difference in humidity between the inner layer of the wearer's skin and the atmosphere. In addition, through the structural arrangement of hydrophobic and hydrophilic fibers, this movement can be facilitated and guided from the human body. 312 / Invention (Supplement) / 92-06 / 92107376! 23〇750 Although perspiration fabrics can be made using weaving mechanisms, most of these fabrics of commercial interest are warp or circular knit Made by equipment weaving. The hydrophobic fibers of choice are generally melt-spun polyester, nylon, or polypropylene polymers. These fibers may be in the form of staple fiber yarns, flat continuous multifilaments, or textured continuous multifilaments. For the hydrophilic side of the cloth, the most commonly used fiber is a matrix of modified nylon polymer. Generally, such a nylon polymer is rendered hydrophilic by chemically denaturing the nylon polymer chain during the polymerization step. This is achieved by chemically adding hydrophilic sites as fragments within the nylon polymer chain or chemically linking hydrophilic sites as branches of the nylon polymer chain. Alternatively, the nylon fiber may have a topically hydrophilic property by subjecting the fiber to a chemical reaction that attaches a hydrophilic portion to the fiber surface or very close to the surface to the nylon polymer. Other rare hydrophilic fibers are made from denatured polyvinyl alcohol, acrylic, and cellulose acetate polymers. Here again, the hydrophilic fibers may be in the form of staple fiber yarns, flat continuous multifilaments, or deformed continuous multifilaments. In some cases, cotton threads and denatured cotton yarns can also be used as hydrophilic components. Even though structural fabrics of prior art have been accepted on the market, there are still some disadvantages that limit their usefulness in certain applications. One of the more important issues is that 'weaving or weaving equipment using at least two yarns is required to make fabrics with different sides. The use of such equipment results in considerable product costs. Examples of other problems are described below. In most cases, there is a great difference between the dyeability and the fastness of the dye between the hydrophilic and hydrophobic fibers used in a specific perspiration structure. 8 312 / Explanation of the Invention (Supplement) / 92-06 / 92107376 1230750 different. Because of this difference, it is difficult and even impossible to make cloths dyed with a uniform color. Often, in order to obtain acceptable results, two or more staining types and multiple staining cycles must be used. This will substantially increase the dyeing and finishing costs of the sweat-wicking fabric. As described above, the sweat-permeable cloth system based on the prior art is formed such that the cloth side which is in contact with the wearer's skin surface is hydrophobic, and the outer cloth surface contains hydrophilic fibers. This pair of sweat-wicking fabrics poses a serious problem in some important applications. Especially for sportswear and promotional items (names, trademarks and other distinctive design features are often screen-printed or transferred on the outer surface of clothing). This serious problem occurs because of the better hydrophilic fibers based on denatured nylon polymers, which perform very poorly as substrates for screen and transfer dyes and inks for general use. As a result, it is either impossible or very expensive to print a bright and bright design on a wide range of sweat-wicking fabrics of the prior art. Sandwich-p 1 ate knitting technology in which a hydrophilic yarn is sandwiched between two hydrophobic yarns and fed into a single knitting needle group, by using this knitting technology to form a sandwich-type outer cloth surface Or by forming the two sides of the cloth, printing problems can be improved to a certain extent. Although this method does position the hydrophobic fibers on the outer fabric surface to make them screen printable and transferable, it is still a rather difficult technique, because three yarns must be fed into each individual in a fixed order. Inside the needle. In addition, different yarns easily slip out of position during manufacturing and processing (r e g i s t e r). This lack of precise positioning of the sandwiched yarn construction can result in blurred printing. Mechanical properties of the better hydrophilic fibers of denatured nylon polymer matrix 9 312 / Invention Specification (Supplements) / 92-06 / 92107376 1230750 Properties' include abrasion resistance, normally lower than most commonly used hydrophobicity Fibers' such as polyester and polypropylene. This complicates weaving and limits the areas of application where such structures can be successfully used. The touch properties of hydrophobic and hydrophilic fibers that are commonly used are often quite different. Although it is not a problem for the less commonly used sandwich-type plain woven fabrics, the sides of the more commonly used sweat-permeable fabrics show very different "feel" or "feel" depending on the surface of the fabric being touched. This can be a serious disadvantage in some applications, such as undergarments. Care must be taken in maintaining proper orientation and positioning of the fabric surface when cutting and sewing perspiration fabrics with quite different properties on both sides into clothing, footwear, and other end-use applications. If the wrong side is made when the final item is manufactured, the resulting product will not be able to effectively sweat. U.S. Patent No. 4,62 1,48 9 issued to Hozuma Okada discloses a textile fabric using core yarns that is claimed to be breathable so that the outer fibers in contact with the wearer's skin can remain substantially dry, even sweat, all day long The same is true when water vapor is generated. The core-spun yarn includes a bundle composed of a bundle of internal hydrophilic fibers, and a thread wadding composed of a plurality of external hydrophobic fibers disposed outside the bundle to substantially completely cover the internal fibers ° [ SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The main object of the present invention is to provide a structured composite yarn having both hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties, which can be used alone or in combination with other hydrophobic yarns to produce high-performance sweat-permeable fabrics. Its further purpose is to use a composite containing hydrophilic fibers embedded in a hydrophobic fiber matrix. 10 312 / Explanation of the Invention (Supplement) / 92-06 / 92107376 1230750 糸 Single or combined with one or more hydrophobic yarns to form Knitted sweat cloth. The obtained sweat-permeable fabric has different perspiration properties than the conventional cloth, and at the same time, it can substantially overcome the shortcomings of the aforementioned conventional techniques, the use of the sweat-permeable yarn and the fabric. The present invention satisfies the foregoing object by using air entanglement (a i r e n t a n g e e m e n t) to change a hydrophilic yarn of a multifilament along a hydrophobic yarn of a multifilament into an or deforming device to form a composite yarn to meet the aforementioned object. Two kinds of different yarn tensions, which are fed by the feed rate, gas pressure, and air-jet entanglement, leave the air-jet entangler with hydrophilic fibers in the core, while the hydrophobic fibers are substantially concentrated. The resulting composite yarn did not have a well-defined area to distinguish between sparse fibers and hydrophilic core fibers. More precisely, the composite yarn consists essentially of hydrophobic fibers, while the hydrophilic fibers combine at the center of the yarn. A mixed layer containing hydrophilic and hydrophobic fibers falls between the center and outer surface of the composite yarn. It is known that tightly mixed and hydrophilic yarns that appear in the cross-section of a composite yarn cross section result in faster hydrophobicity to the center of the hydrophilic fibers than the conventional sheath-core composite yarn prepared according to the aforementioned Okada patent, for example. Water transfer. Areas that are closely intermixed with similarly hydrophilic and hydrophobic fibers accelerate the vapor transfer from the fibers into the atmosphere through the hydrophobic fibers. The area where the hydrophilic and hydrophobic fibers are mixed in the yarn cross section is very important for the excellent performance of the sweat-permeable fabric of the composite yarn. This 312 / Invention Specification (Supplement) / 92-〇6 / 92 Zhejiang training weaving and weaving into the same or better limited form equipment, the air-jet entanglement is carefully controlled by the relative feed substantially outside its outer water surface The method that the surface concentrates on the transition of the hydrophobic teaching fibers of the compound, the internal hydrophilic moisture. The present invention can compare the core and core moisture composite yarn (where the hydrophilic core yarn is covered by hydrophobic fibers) by 11 1230750. Tightly wrap) and understand. In this type of yarn, the interface between the hydrophobic fibers and the hydrophilic fibers is proportional to the radius square of the hydrophilic bundle of fibers at the core. For the composite yarn of the present invention, individual filaments intermingled with hydrophobic and hydrophilic fibers result in a substantially larger interface area. The reason for this increase is because the interface system in the hybrid area of the composite yarn is directly proportional to the square of the radius of the individual filaments of the hydrophobic and hydrophilic yarns. The increase in the interface area between the hydrophobic and hydrophilic components does not increase the total amount of moisture that can be carried away by the composite yarn. However, the increase of the interface will increase the absorbed kinetic energy, and make the transfer of moisture in the sweat-permeable fabric more rapid and effective. When clothing contacts the wearer's skin surface, this unique composite yarn structure results in an efficient and rapid wicking of sweat from the outer hydrophobic fibers in contact with the skin surface to the inner hydrophilic fibers of the yarn. . On the surface of the clothing far from the wearer's body, moisture evaporates from the internal hydrophilic fibers through the external hydrophobic fibers to the atmosphere. In the double-sided sweat-absorbent fabric, the composite yarn of the present invention replaces the hydrophilic yarn which is centered on the outer fabric surface of the sweat-absorbent fabric. The obtained double-sided fabric has one side made of a hydrophobic yarn, and the other side alone contains the composite yarn of the present invention or a combination thereof with a hydrophobic yarn. In perspiration clothes or other end-use items that come in contact with the wearer's body, moisture from sweat passes from the skin surface through the hydrophobic fibers of the inner cloth layer, and then passes through the outer hydrophobic matrix to enter the inner layer of the outer composite yarn. Sex fiber. Finally, water evaporates from the hydrophilic fibers and passes through the hydrophobic outer fibers of the composite yarn into the atmosphere. 12 312 / Invention Specification (Supplement) / 92-06 / 92107376 1230750 By using the unique structured composite hydrophilic / hydrophobic yarn of the present invention to make sweat-permeable fabrics and clothes, the products related to the aforementioned conventional techniques can be avoided The problem. The reasons for these significant improvements are outlined in the next paragraph. By embedding clean 'dull or slightly gray hydrophilic fibers in the hydrophobic fiber matrix in the composite yarn of the present invention, it can dye only the hydrophobic fibers and leave the hydrophilic fibers undyed because it is essentially Concealed by external hydrophobic fibers. Further, if a fiber such as polyester is used as the hydrophobic component ', it will immediately undergo screen printing and transfer on the surface of the yarn and cloth. For the same reason, the touch properties of the cloth will mainly depend on the hydrophobic fibers on the surface of the composite yarn. In addition, the mechanical properties of the cloth, such as abrasion resistance, will be mainly controlled by the hydrophobic component of the composite yarn structure. An additional feature of the present invention that is superior to conventional techniques is that the unique characteristics of its composite yarn enable the manufacture of perspiration fabrics from a single composite yarn. This feature of the present invention makes it simpler and cheaper to manufacture the knitting equipment and method than the technique disclosed in the prior art which requires the use of two or more different yarns. Depending on the knitting technique used, the two sides of the resulting sweat-permeable fabric may be the same. This is an important advantage of the present invention, because fabrics having interchangeable two sides can be used to cut and sew on the fabric side when manufacturing the final product. A single yarn cloth made using the composite yarn of the present invention has the same hydrophobic fibers exposed on both sides. In clothing, hydrophobic fibers are in close contact with the body of the wearer. Sweat quickly enters the interstices of the composite yarn due to wicking and is absorbed by the hydrophilic fibers embedded in the hydrophobic fiber matrix. Then, the water is transmitted to the outer cloth surface through the hydrophilic fibers and evaporates from the hydrophilic fibers, and the vapor enters the atmosphere through the external 312 / Invention Specification (Supplement) / 92-06 / 92107376 ι 1230750 hydrophobic fibers. This moisture transmission is now generated with the same efficiency, regardless of whether the surface of the cloth in contact with the wearer is exposed to the atmosphere or not, because the moisture is moved from the surface of the skin with high humidity to the atmosphere with low humidity. Yarn is particularly useful for making double-sided sweat-wicking fabrics that resemble conventional fabric structures. However, in this type of cloth using the composite yarn of the present invention, the composite yarn replaces the hydrophilic yarn used in the outer layer of the cloth which is far away from the wearer's body in the garment of the conventional art. Depending on the desired efficacy of the structured sweat-wicking fabric and the most end-use garment, it can be used alone or in combination with a water-repellent yarn on the two sides of the double-sided fabric. When the double-sided cloth is produced using the composite yarn of the present invention, the hydrophobic fiber is on the surface of the inner layer and the outer layer of the cloth of the finished product at the same time. As a result, it can be transferred or screen-printed on either or both sides of the fabric, enabling complex designs to be printed and bright, sharply colored patterns to appear on either or both sides of the finished garment without the right The complexity caused by screen printing and transfer is mainly composed of hydrophilic fibers, such as denatured nylon. These and other objects, features, and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent with reference to the following detailed description and the scope of patent applications and drawings. [Embodiment] The present invention provides a composite yarn comprising a combination of both hydrophobic and hydrophilic fibers, wherein the hydrophilic fibers are concentrated in the interior of the yarn and the hydrophobic fibers are concentrated in the periphery, at the same time in the center of the yarn and its periphery. In the middle area between the two types of silk. In addition, the present invention provides a method for using a hydrophobic yarn only on the composite yarn of the present invention or on the side of the cloth which will be in contact with the wearer's body 14 312 / Invention Specification (Supplement) / 92-06 / 92107376 1230750 The perspiration-resistant cloth made of the compound yarn of the present invention which is far away from the cloth side of the wearer's body is effective in smell. In addition, the present invention provides a method of twisting one or more hydrophobic yarns by using only the composite yarn of the present invention or by using a hydrophobic yarn on the side of the cloth that will be in contact with the body of the wearer and by using a hydrophobic yarn on the side of the cloth that is away from the body of the wearer. A highly effective sweat-permeable fabric made by combining the composite yarn of the present invention. Similarly, the composite yarn of the present invention may be twisted with one or more hydrophobic yarns when manufacturing a sweat-permeable fabric, and may not be used with other yarns. Among them, the cross section of the composite yarn in which hydrophilic and hydrophobic fibers are mixed has an internal and annular area in which the hydrophilic fiber concentration region and the peripheral hydrophobic fiber concentration region are an important and unique feature of the composite yarn of the present invention. The conventional sheath-core composite 'has a delicate transition zone between hydrophobic and hydrophilic fibers in the yarn cross section. As a result, the interface between the water and the hydrophobic fibers which must pass from the hydrophobic fibers to the hydrophilic fibers is greatly limited. By providing a region of hybrid hydrophobic and hydrophilic fibers in the cross-section of the composite, the composite yarn of the present invention can greatly increase the area of the area per unit of interface length that moisture must penetrate through and be absorbed by the hydrophilic fibers. This increase in the area of the interface area per unit length contributes to the kinetic energy of moisture transfer, and can increase the rate and efficiency of the transfer. The hydrophilic fiber component of the composite yarn of the present invention may be in the form of a continuous flat multifilament yarn, a continuous deformed multifilament yarn, or a staple fiber yarn. The hydrophobic fibers may also be in the form of flat multifilament yarns, textured multifilament yarns, or staple fiber yarns. However, if the hydrophobic yarn is in the form of a staple fiber yarn, special attention must be paid to the formation of the composite yarn to avoid the staple fiber yarn from breaking. In addition, for applications requiring high abrasion resistance of 15 312 / Invention Specification (Supplement) / 9106/92107376 1230750, the preferred form of hydrophobic component is continuous flat or deformed multifilament yarn. Fig. 1 shows an enlarged view of a typical cross-sectional profile of a composite yarn generally designated 3 in the present invention taken perpendicular to the longitudinal axis. The hydrophilic filament 1 is shown as a shaded open circle, while the hydrophobic filament 2 is shown as a shaded open circle. It can be seen from Fig. 1 that the hydrophilic yarns are concentrated near the center of the cross section, while the hydrophobic yarns are concentrated on the periphery of the composite yarn. It can be clearly seen that the hydrophilic and hydrophobic yarns are mixed in the middle area between the center and the periphery of the composite yarn without an obvious interface. Fig. 2 shows an enlarged view along the longitudinal axis of the composite yarn 3 of the present invention, and shows that the hydrophilic yarn 1 is concentrated near the core of the yarn surrounded by the matrix of the hydrophobic yarn 2. Like Figure 1, Figure 2 illustrates the intermingling of hydrophilic and hydrophobic fibers in the middle region between the center of the composite yarn and its outer surface. In addition, the sketch of Fig. 2 illustrates the gradual migration of the hydrophobic fiber 2 from the yarn periphery to the main hybrid transition zone along the longitudinal axis of the composite yarn 3, and even into the central region where the hydrophilic fiber 1 is concentrated. Similarly, the hydrophilic fibers 1 migrate between the center zone of the composite yarn 3 and the periphery where the hydrophobic fibers 2 are concentrated. The physical exchange of the fiber position in this yarn has the effect of accelerating the transmission of moisture into the hydrophilic fiber 1 concentrated in the center of the composite yarn. Depending on the application of the final product, the proportion of hydrophilic fibers required for the best mechanical and comfort properties of sweat-wicking fabrics can range from as low as 8 to 10% to as high as 60 to 75% by weight. In addition, from an economic point of view, it is best to avoid using more hydrophilic fibers in the fabric structure than is required for optimal perspiration performance because hydrophilic fibers are substantially more expensive than hydrophobic fibers. 16 312 / Invention Specification (Supplement) / 92-06 / 92107376 1230750 The hydrophilic fiber content of the sweat-permeable fabric of the present invention can be adjusted by adjusting the ratio of hydrophobicity to hydrophilic fiber used in preparing the composite yarn of the present invention. change. However, in practice, a limited amount of the composite yarn of the present standard with a fixed hydrophilic fiber content is manufactured, and then the content of the hydrophilic yarn is adjusted in the finished sweat-permeable fabric by twisting one or more composite yarns of the hydrophobic yarn, It is usually more economical. FIG. 3 shows an enlarged side view of a composite yarn 3 of the present invention, which has a hydrophilic fiber 1 and a hydrophobic fiber 2, both of which are made of a hydrophobic yarn 4 of a continuous multifilament which basically comprises 100% of a hydrophobic yarn. Phase twist. In the same manner, FIG. 4 illustrates an enlarged side view of the composite yarn 3 of the present invention, which is rounded with two kinds of hydrophobic yarns 4 and 5 of continuous multifilament each containing substantially 100% of the hydrophobic yarn. The two hydrophobic yarns 4 and 5 may be the same or different, depending on the required function of the twisted composite yarn and the sweat-permeable fabric. For example, one of the hydrophobic yarns can be a polyester matrix and the other is a polypropylene matrix. In addition, in order to obtain a cloth having a soft feel (ie, a soft touch) and a high abrasion resistance, the composite yarn of the present invention may be aggregated with a monofilament containing a range of normal I · 5 to 3 denier. Ester yarns are twisted, while the other contains a single filament with a trace of less than 1 denier. The content of the hydrophilic fibers in the sweat-permeable fabric can also be adjusted by alternately knitting the composite yarn 3 and the hydrophobic yarn of the present invention. Fig. 5 is a schematic view showing an enlarged plan view of a flat knitted fabric made of a single composite yarn 3 containing both hydrophilic fibers 1 and hydrophobic fibers 2 according to the present invention. Due to the unique structure and properties of the composite yarn of the present invention, this simple cloth structure can effectively absorb sweat from the high-humidity atmosphere at the surface of the wearer's skin, and then pass from the internal hydrophilic fibers to the hydrophobic side of the other cloth side 17 312 / Invention Specification (Supplement) / 92-06 / 921〇7376 12307501 'raw matrix fiber, and the water absorbed by evaporation enters the surrounding low-humidity environment. It is in sharp contrast with the cloth of the conventional art. The cloth of the present invention has an excellent effect of transmitting moisture from the skin of the wearer to the atmosphere, even if it is in contact with the body on either side of the cloth. In addition, since the outer surfaces of both sides of the fabric are essentially composed of a hydrophobic fabric, a garment made of a single composite yarn fabric can immediately receive screen printing and transfer patterns on either or both sides of the fabric. The most interesting hydrophobic fibers used in the composite yarn of the present invention have a low moisture regain (r e g a i η V a 1 u e). Most current end-sweat fabrics and garments are preferably made from polyester or nylon polymers. Other hydrophobic fibers that can be used in the composite yarns of the present invention include fibers from: polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride, and polyacrylonitrile polymers. Although hydrophobic fibers from polyester and, to a lesser extent, nylon polymers, are better for most of the perspiration fabrics and garments of commercial interest today, hydrophobic fibers are actually selected for specific applications The choice must be based on economic and end-use needs. The hydrophilic fiber used in the composite yarn of the present invention must have a high moisture regain. Preferred hydrophilic fibers are denatured 6- or 66-nylon polymers. A particularly useful modified 6-nylon fiber is traded under the name "Hydrofil". AlliedSignal was the original developer and supplier of this product; however, it is now manufactured and supplied by Universal Fiber System, LLC. Other denatured nylon matrix products. Useful products that can be used as the hydrophilic component of the composite yarn of the present invention include fibers sold under the trade names "Quup" and "Hygra". Japan's Toray 18 312 / Invention Manual (Supplement V92-〇6 / 92! 07376 1230750 Nylon company uses melt-extrusion modified 6-nylon to produce continuous multifilament "Quup" ° "Hygra" is also in Japan Production and supply. It is a structured sheath-core bicomponent fiber, in which the outer surface of individual continuous filaments contains hydrophobic 6-nylon, and its core contains hydrophilic modified 6-nylon. Manufactured and supplied by Jia Company. Other hydrophilic fibers with less attention include cotton, cellulose acetate staple fiber yarn and silk, rayon, linen material, denatured acrylic fiber and denatured polyvinyl alcohol. As mentioned above, The composite yarn of the present invention includes hydrophilic fibers embedded in a deformed hydrophobic fiber matrix. According to the desired effect of the final product, the hydrophilic fibers may be in the form of flat continuous filaments, deformed continuous filaments, or staple fiber yarns. Hydrophobic matrix components It can also be in the form of flat or deformed continuous filaments; however, the form of staple fiber yarns is less appropriate because air jets in air-entangled equipment may cause the staple fiber yarns to break. Although it is also possible Other methods, but the preferred method for manufacturing the composite yarn of the present invention is to pass the two fiber types together through an air-jet type commonly used in air-jet texturing equipment. In order to ensure that the obtained composite yarn has a hydrophilic fiber facing the center and a hydrophobic fiber Focusing on the periphery, the feeding rate must be carefully controlled. This purpose can be achieved by feeding hydrophilic fibers under tension, while hydrophobic fibers are super-fed. Air-jet yarns used to make the composite yarn of the present invention The texturing machines are supplied by some textile machinery manufacturers. Among these manufacturers are ICBT in France, Staehle in Germany and Menegatto in Italy. Figure 6 illustrates the use of hydrophobic and hydrophilic fibers in air-jets supplied by, for example, the aforementioned manufacturers. A typical path in a texturing machine. In Figure 6, a positive drive drives a pro 19 312 / Invention Specification (Supplement) / 92-06 / 92107376 at a fixed rate and controlled tension! 230750 Water-based multifilament continuous yarn 1 through the inlet guide Piece 8 is fed into the air-jet chamber 9 of the air-jet texturing device. An overfeed assembly pulls the hydrophobic multifilament yarn 2 through the rear end of the supply box and For hydrophilic yarns, the higher feed rate is fed into the air-jet chamber 9 through the inlet guide 8. The relative rate of the weight of the fed hydrophilic and hydrophobic yarns must be adjusted so that the final composite yarn contains a minimum of 8 weights % But not more than 75% by weight of hydrophilic fibers. To a certain extent, the feed can be adjusted by overfeeding the hydrophobic fibers up to 60%. In addition, adjustment can also be made by selecting different hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties The denier (i.e., the size) of the sexual yarn is used to make the composite yarn. Upon leaving the air-jet chamber 9, the composite yarn passes through a heat-curing assembly 10. Finally, a winding assembly 11 1 turns the composite yarn It is wound into a bobbin 12. When the hydrophilic yarn 1 and the hydrophobic yarn 2 pass the violent, high-speed air flow maintained in the air-jet chamber 9, the hydrophilicity is controlled by the control tension maintained by the feeding control assembly 6. Sexual filaments can essentially maintain their integrity. The individual filaments of the over-fed hydrophobic yarn 2 were blown violently by the air flow in the air-jet chamber. As a result, the hydrophilic filaments under tension are concentrated at the center and the vicinity of the composite yarn leaving the air-jet chamber, while the hydrophobic filaments are concentrated at the periphery. When thermoplastic fibers are deformed in a jet or other deforming device, the fibers are thermally cured as they leave the deformed area of the machine. FIG. 6 shows a heat curing chamber 10 under the air-jet chamber 9. However, hydrophilic fibers made from denatured nylon polymers may melt away if exposed to the heat-curing temperature typically used for polyester-based substrates and certain other hydrophobic fibers. Therefore, when manufacturing the composite yarn of the present invention, it is necessary to minimize the temperature and residence time used for heat-curing hydrophobic fibers. For certain combinations of hydrophobicity and hydrophilic fibers, it is impossible to properly heat cure the hydrophobic component of the composite yarn without damaging the hydrophilic fibers. In this case, 'the hydrophobic component can be deformed and heat-cured first, and then the pre-deformed hydrophobic and hydrophilic fibers can be passed through the air-jet deformation equipment without heating to the heat-cured area, so that it can be made good. Quality composite yarn. In addition, depending on the required performance characteristics of the composite yarn, it is preferred to allow both hydrophilic and hydrophobic yarns to pass through the air jet texturing machine without heat curing. This is especially true if very lightweight composite yarns are required. [Brief description of the drawings] Fig. 1 shows an enlarged view of a typical hydrophobic / hydrophilic fiber distribution in the composite yarn of the present invention, and is a schematic cross-section taken at a right angle to the long axis of the yarn structure. Fig. 2 shows an enlarged view of a typical distribution of hydrophobic and hydrophilic fibers in the composite yarn of the present invention, and is a schematic side view along the long axis of the yarn structure. Fig. 3 is an enlarged view showing the twist of the composite yarn and the hydrophobic yarn of the present invention. Fig. 4 is an enlarged view showing a twist of a composite yarn and two hydrophobic yarns according to the present invention. Fig. 5 shows an enlarged plan view of a flat woven sweat fabric according to the present invention by using only a single hydrophobic ^ / hydrophilic composite yarn to produce a structure in which both sides are substantially the same. Figure 6 shows a schematic diagram of a typical channel for hydrophobic and hydrophilic fibers processed on an air jet texturing machine to make the composite yarn of the present invention. (Description of component symbols) 1 Hydrophilic yarn 21 312 / Invention specification (Supplement) / 92-06 / 92107376 1230750 2 Hydrophobic yarn 3 Composite yarn 4 Hydrophobic yarn 5 Hydrophobic yarn 6 Feeding control assembly 7 Super feeding combination Pieces 8 into □ guide 9 air-jet chamber 10 heat curing assembly 11 winding assembly 12 bobbin 312 / invention specification (supplement) / 92-06 / 92107376