1250238 玖、發明說明： 【發明所屬之技術領域】 本發明係有關將一種溶劑拉紡布料進行染色與整理。 在本說明書中，名詞''LYOCELL布料"係指一種從含有LY〇CELL纖 維（即“溶劑拉紡纖維”）的短纖維紗平織或針織成的布料。這類纖維紗 可包含單純的溶劑拉紡纖維，或者，它們可包含溶劑拉紡纖維與一種或一 種以上的纖維素類型或非纖維素類型的纖維（比方說，棉、黏膠纖維、麻、 聚酷和尼龍）的混紡。此外，這種布料可另外包括不含溶劑拉纺纖維的（比 方說，前面所提到的其他纖維類型）的纖維紗，以及與該等纖維的混紡。 溶劑拉紡纖維的生產乃是藉著將一纖維素的水溶液擠押通經一吐絲 頭，進入到一凝結浴液裡（該方法被稱作、、溶劑拉纺,,法）。因此，ly〇cell 纖維的另外-種名稱就是、溶齡_維素纖維，，。這樣的—種方法在美國 專利US-A-4,246,221中有述’並且使用一水性叔胺N_氧化劑（尤指n•甲基 氧氮雜環己烷N-氧化物；NMN0)作為溶劑。溶劑拉纺纖維與其他人錢 維素纖維不同的是，其他人造纖維是藉著將纖維素製備到一可溶解的化學 衍生物裡，然後再將這衍生物的溶液擠押到一浴液裡，其將該擠押物再生 成纖維素纖維；__，包括高莫代__即是赠者方式生產 的。 【先前技術】 我們都知道’溶·紡纖維在激烈的染色和表面處理加工躺有原纖 維化的傾向，而有許多種方法來應付這個現象。既然有意要避免原_， 那麼，溶劑拉纺布料的染色和整理使用相當地溫和的加工（比方說平幅 5 1250238 布料以乳染方式加工）來進行，而域脂表面處理也使用-交聯劑來處理 經染色的布料上，以保護該等纖維在接續的祕加卫裡不致原纖維化。 另外一種應付這溶劑拉紡纖維的原纖維化傾向的方法是將這些纖維加 以處理’致以除去相當長的突出的纖維末端這些突出的纖維末端是在原 纖維化加工的第-階段（即所謂、、—次原纖維化。所形成的，而這些突出 的纖維會在布料的表面產生—飛毛的，通妓暗淡的效果，㈣布料外觀 有不良影響。另一方面，人們又喜歡在原纖維化加工（即所謂 '、二次原纖 維化）所形成的較短的原、纖維。這些較短的原纖維產生的一表面效果，其 特徵為，既、乾淨”（這樣說是因為完全不會產生飛毛的效果），而且在表 面上較短的原纖維給人-種柔軟的手感（我們稱之手感柔軟的表面„)。 當这些較短的原纖維大量地產生時，那麼，布料表面的柔軟手感會更明顯， 而這手感柔軟的表面我們稱之為、、桃皮手感表面//。 以這樣的方式來應付原纖維化傾向的實施例在國際專利 WO-A-95/30043中有述，且其涉及藉由一配合使用一種酸觸媒以及加上一 種交聯劑（比方說，N-羥甲基樹脂）進行的後處理除去在染色加工期間所 形成的、、一次原纖維化〃的產物。另外一個實施例在國際專利 WO-A-97/30204中有述，在該專利中，溶劑拉紡布料在染色之前先以一氧 化劑（比方說，次氣酸鈉或過氧化氫）的水性溶液在升高的溫度作前處理。 而另一種實施例在英國專利GB-A-2,314,568中有述，且其涉及使用該染色 機本身（比方說，一喷射染色機），配合使用一強礦物酸（比方說，硫酸） 的水溶液對該溶劑拉紡布料進行長達30分鐘到120分鐘的處理，然後在該 6 1250238 同機為裡將该布料清洗然後再開始染色 。然而，這些加工方法的每一種 P不合易控fUx產出均勻齊_的結果，而這些加工方法沒有—種曾經用來 作大規模的商業運轉。 而應付攻個問題的一個不同的方法在國際專利协細⑽刚中有 丫 '、乂及將’合劑拉紡布料在染色加工的誘使原纖維化步驟之前，進行 、处這们别處理包含使用-酸或酸供與體（比方說，檸檬酸或氯化 鎮）的水性溶液將該布料含浸，接著將該含浸過的布料在贼到咖的 门皿孔體队巾進彳了加熱處理，則丨發紐紐供與_反應。這個方法 很有效’但7^ ’由於f要使用加減體處理，這通常表示要使用-拉幅烤 箱’這個步驟是許多布料加工業者希望避免的。 有一種方法已經成功地經前運作，其涉及將已經經驗式加工作業 的溶劑拉紡布料進行_後處理，以導致原纖維化。在、次原纖維化禮 赴的突出的纖維末端在這倾處理帽著對該布料施給—纖維素酶的水 液而除去❿在接續的加工過程中所產生的怡人的、、二次原纖維化舉 個例說’在染色加碎驟（如果稍後有的話）或在接續的絲以及乾燥步 驟中，制迴轉式滾雜），以捕布·表面纽—鮮㈣軟的表面。 纖維素酶處理能夠成功地將 長纖維末端從該布料的表面除去， 時間來說，都是很昂貴的。 、、一次原纖維化〃步驟中所產生的突出的 但是，這樣的處理，就材料成本和加工 【發明内容】 本發明提供了 一種用以生產 一經染色並經整理的溶劑拉紡布料 (其有 7 1250238 著-乾淨、手感柔軟的整理）的方法，該方法包含將一溶劑拉纺布料進行 —戈力冑理使用機械的動作在該布料的表賴使原纖維化然後將 邊布料進行染色之前，再給以—滾筒處理，以生成乾淨、手感柔軟的表面； 該方法之特徵為’賴使原纖維化齡驟是在高於大氣顧境下進行的， 並使用-驗的水性溶液作為座式加工液，而該銳的溫度乃高於該水溶 液在大氣壓環境下的沸點。 該溶劑拉紡布料最好是以布料捲染的形式進行加工。另外，也有可能 以塊料或成衣形式加工。在每_種情況裡，所使關裝備應#能夠經加壓， 以使得在誘使原纖維化的步驟裡，達到所需要的溫度。最好，使用在誘使 原纖維化步驟與染色步驟裡的是同一套裝備。 可用在誘使原纖維化步驟裡的裝借的—個舉例，包含_喷射染色機， 在該染色機裡’-布料捆在空氣或液體喷射流作動下，經以循環方式輸送 通經-加工液，該空氣或液體喷射流在該布料捆上遂行機械作動。這鶴 作是在該布料捆經施壓轉進迫向機器表面時，以彎折及扭動力量，以及以 摩擦及衝壓力量形式施給的。該同—噴射染色機亦可用來進行接下來的染 色步驟。 最好是使用空氣喷射染色機。適合的市售染色機包括τι^編_，1250238 玖, invention description: [Technical field to which the invention pertains] The present invention relates to dyeing and finishing a solvent drawn fabric. In the present specification, the term ''LYOCELL fabric" refers to a fabric that is woven or knitted from a staple fiber yarn containing LY〇CELL fibers (i.e., "solvent drawn fibers"). Such fiber yarns may comprise pure solvent drawn fibers, or they may comprise solvent drawn fibers and one or more cellulose type or non-cellulosic type fibers (for example, cotton, viscose, hemp, Poly and nylon) blends. In addition, such fabrics may additionally include fiber yarns that are free of solvent-spun fibers (e.g., other fiber types previously mentioned), as well as blends with such fibers. The solvent drawn fiber is produced by extruding an aqueous solution of cellulose through a spinning head into a coagulation bath (this method is called, solvent spinning, method). Therefore, the other name of the ly〇cell fiber is, the age of dissolution, the fiber. Such a method is described in the U.S. Patent No. 4,246,221, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety in its entirety in the the the the the the the the the Solvent-spun fibers are different from others in that they are made by preparing cellulose into a soluble chemical derivative and then pushing the solution of the derivative into a bath. , which regenerates the squeezing material into cellulose fibers; __, including high modal __ is produced by the donor. [Prior Art] We all know that 'dissolved and spun fibers have a tendency to fibrillate in intense dyeing and surface treatment, and there are many ways to cope with this phenomenon. Since it is intended to avoid the original _, then the dyeing and finishing of the solvent-spun fabric is carried out using a relatively gentle process (for example, a flat 5 1250238 fabric is processed by emulsion dyeing), and the surface treatment of the domain grease is also used - cross-linking. The agent is applied to the dyed fabric to protect the fibers from fibrillation in the continuation of the secret. Another way to cope with the fibrillation tendency of the solvent drawn fibers is to treat the fibers to remove the relatively long protruding fiber ends. These protruding fiber ends are in the first stage of fibrillation processing (so-called, , - the formation of fibrillation. These prominent fibers will produce on the surface of the fabric - flying hair, dull effect, (4) the appearance of the fabric has a bad influence. On the other hand, people like to fibrillation Shorter original fibers formed by processing (so-called 'secondary fibrillation'). These short fibrils produce a surface effect characterized by being clean and clean (so that it is because it is not at all The effect of flying hair), and the shorter fibrils on the surface give a soft hand (we call the soft surface „). When these shorter fibrils are produced in large quantities, then the surface of the cloth The soft hand feels more pronounced, and this soft-feeling surface is called, the peach skin feel surface //. The embodiment in which the fibrillation tendency is dealt with in this way is Is described in WO-A-95/30043, and relates to the removal of dyeing by post-treatment with a combination of an acid catalyst and a crosslinking agent (for example, N-hydroxymethyl resin). A product of primary fibrillation enthalpy formed during processing. Another embodiment is described in International Patent No. WO-A-97/30204, in which the solvent-drawn fabric is treated with an oxidizing agent prior to dyeing ( For example, an aqueous solution of sodium hypochlorite or hydrogen peroxide is pretreated at elevated temperatures. Another embodiment is described in British Patent GB-A-2,314,568, and it relates to the use of the dyeing machine itself ( For example, a jet dyeing machine, the solvent-drawn fabric is treated with an aqueous solution of a strong mineral acid (say, sulfuric acid) for up to 30 minutes to 120 minutes, and then the same is used in the 6 1250238 The cloth is cleaned and then dyed. However, each of these processing methods does not control the results of fUx output uniformity, and these processing methods have not been used for large-scale commercial operations. A different method in the International Patent Association (10) just has the 丫 ', 乂 and the 'mixed pull fabrics before the dyeing process to induce the fibrillation step, where the treatment contains the use of - acid or acid The aqueous solution of the donor (for example, citric acid or chlorinated town) is impregnated with the fabric, and then the impregnated fabric is heated in a thief-to-coffee door-to-door body towel. New supply and _ reaction. This method is very effective 'but 7^ 'Because f is to be treated with addition and subtraction, this usually means to use - tenter oven' This step is what many fabric manufacturers want to avoid. There is a way to successfully Pre-operation, which involves the post-treatment of the solvent-drawn fabric of the already-experimental processing operation to cause fibrillation. The protruding fiber ends of the subfibrillation ceremony are treated at the end of the fabric. Applying the aqueous solution of cellulase to remove the pleasant, secondary fibrillation produced during the subsequent processing. For example, 'in the dyeing process (if there is later) or In the continuation of the wire Drying step, rotary roller made hetero) to capture cloth New Surface - (iv) fresh soft surface. Cellulase treatment can successfully remove long fiber ends from the surface of the fabric, which is expensive in time. The present invention provides a solvent-drawn fabric that is dyed and finished (which has a dyed and woven fabric) 7 1250238 A method of clean-cleaning, soft-touch finishing, which involves drawing a solvent into a fabric - the use of mechanical action on the surface of the fabric to fibrillate and then dye the side fabric And then - roller treatment to produce a clean, soft-feeling surface; the method is characterized by 'reliance of fibrillation age is carried out above atmospheric conditions, and using - tested aqueous solution as a seat The processing fluid, and the sharp temperature is higher than the boiling point of the aqueous solution under atmospheric pressure. The solvent drawn fabric is preferably processed in the form of a fabric wrap. In addition, it is also possible to process in the form of blocks or garments. In each case, the equipment should be pressurized so that the desired temperature is reached in the step of inducing fibrillation. Preferably, the same set of equipment is used in the process of inducing fibrillation and dyeing. An example of a loan that can be used in the process of inducing fibrillation, including a jet dyeing machine, in which the bundle of cloth is conveyed in a circular manner by means of an air or liquid jet. The liquid, the air or liquid jet is mechanically actuated on the bundle of cloth. This crane is applied in the form of bending and torsional power, as well as friction and punching force, when the fabric bundle is pressed and forced into the surface of the machine. The same-jet dyeing machine can also be used to carry out the subsequent dyeing step. It is best to use an air jet dyeing machine. Suitable commercially available dyeing machines include τι^编_,
Thies Luft Roto, Hisaka AJ-1，Krantz Aerodye 以及 Then AFS。 當該溶劑拉紡布料為塊料或成衣形式時，那麼，所使用的裝備可為一 傳統的封閉式染色槽，比方說，一迴轉筒式染色機。機器零件的轉動致使 機械力量被施加到在機驗_成衣或塊料，以致使所希望的原纖維化。 8 1250238 使用在誘使原纖維化步驟裡的_加工液是__的水性溶液。這最 好是-低脂的缓酸’舉個例說，有6或8個碳原子，適合的化合物成份包 括醋酸、蟻酸、檸檬酸和酒石酸。醋酸和蟻酸是較佳的化合物成份。 在該水性溶液_作麵式加讀的_濃度、加功理的溫度和時 間’就取得該誘使原纖維化步驟裡最佳的結果來說，全都是互為關聯的； 隨著處理溫度增加和處理_延長，可錢用較低的濃I通常，為了商 業上和作業上的理由，都希望把處理溫度和處理時間維持在合理的限定 裡。這是在該誘使原纖維化步驟裡，一特別合適的處理溫度在到⑽ t：之間，而在這樣的溫度裡，合適的處理時間在3〇分鐘至8〇分鐘。在這 樣的處理條件下，在該座式加工液裡的紐濃度在〇 2公克/公升到％公 克/公升之間。 在這樣寬的範圍裡’使用某特定的_會影響所使用的濃度。就醋酸 來說’特別合適的濃度在2公克/公升到％公克/公升之間，而最好是在 3公克/公升到10公克/公升之間。就蟻酸來說，特別合適的濃度在〇2 公克/公升到4公克/公升之間，而最好是〇 4公克/公升到i 2公克/公 升之間。 醋酸和蟻酸使用在本發明的方法中均是非常有效。但是，就排放水的 處理來說’使用蟻酸是較好的，因為它需要的化學氧較少。 整個的處理時間包括一開始期間，在這開始期間裡，該座式加工液經 加熱以將其升溫到所希望的處理溫度。在處理槽裡的壓力也因此增加以使 得能到達該溫度。另外，在處理的結束時有—關_，此時紐式加工 9 1250238 夜:冷部，而，綱恤以清水清洗，再進行染色步驟。這兩個期間加起來 1吊曰至y與處理綱本身相當，因此，這個步驟所花的整個時間可在⑹ 分鐘到160分鐘之間。 ,在這個步驟裡施加到該座布料上的機械動作致使在該布料表面發生原 纖維化。這原纖維化是屬所謂的、、—次原纖維化"的類型，在這樣的原纖 _過程裡，會產生相t長的突出的纖維末端，如果這些長的纖維末端留 料話，會在該布料表面造料好看的，飛毛的效果。以高的處理溫度同 才口紙處理的作用是大大地減弱這些纖維末端的力量，使得在加工過 程裡，從該布料的表面被除去。 看來，有許多纖維末端在_處理加工期間就被除去了，而所有剩下 Γ維末端在接下來㈣色妙理_裡雜料财面_擦掉。通 *在木色步驟之後所留下的所有的纖維末端全呈不附著的毛頭形式其 會在布料滾筒加卫步驟_從該布碰除去。 八 如果溶劑_麵的纟树先經上«經姆叫行平織或針織， 麼’該恤崎較价猶-峨麟作業，块 再進仃本伽的加工。這個絲（或精練）作討為—傳統的作業，在 作業裡’飾料㈣—精練液處㈣除去祕或潤滑劑。 該溶劑拉紡布料的另—種可能的處理是所謂的、性化處理'使用. =的虱氧化納溶液。如果適當的話，這個處理應當在進行本發明的於 編峨㈣獅° 理是扣 …在峨鮮的_ °細__布_-苛性化m 1250238 在歐洲專利EP-A·^中有述。另外，苛性化也增進了該布料的上毕 度’舰處理可能會減低布料的上紐，且有另外的絲是該布料的結^ 更密實，這可以協助降低在稍後聽式處理時的任何收縮_向。錢性 化之後，該树應以熱水再辑水織地清洗赠去親崎性納。了 在該布料在誘使原纖維化步驟結束時經洗務之後，最好是使用該同— 裳備進行乾燥。如果是以布繼㈣形搞布料進行加卫，難裝備^ 是:噴射染色機，更好的是，—空氣伽染色機。接下來㈣的只是將染 液導入到機减，開動機ϋ，開始染色運轉。這個染色運轉可為—傳統的 :在溶劑拉紡布料的染色加卫，制—般的作祕件，以及_般的染料和 木液配方’包括以直接染料、顧純、魏雜，和反應性染料為底的 配方。 對-些以溶劑拉纺纖維與聚酯纖維混纺而成的溶劑拉紡布料來說，該 等聚喊祕使用-分散轉染色，而該鮮步驟是將這染色作業單獨進 行，與該溶齡紡__色作業分開進行。在本發日⑽方法裡，我們發 現在作業過財巾不需要再單獨進行這個分散染色作業，因為它可以與誘 使原纖維化步驟合併進行。結果，在染液裡使用了比起在聚自旨布料的分散 木色作業中常見到的更高濃度的賊並不會妨蝴良好的品質，甚至妨礙 j /布料的日成份的染色。相反地，分錢液的存在並不干擾到該誘使 原纖維化步驟的作用。 在經洗滌以除去所有未上染的染料之後，該經染色的布料可經給以傳 、先的表面處理’包括給以_柔軟處理。這個處理可在染色與洗滌加工之後 1250238 進仃而毋料該布料進行任何乾燥的巾間步驟。 、在段’該經染色的布料的表面尚未獲制希制乾淨、手感柔 勺表ft b的外硯仍維持平坦和不均一，可能有一些不附著的織毛。為 广，彳希望的表面’該布料經給以-滾筒處理，（有時候稱作、、拍打處 )^處理在布料表面增進了所謂、、二次原纖維化〃的相當短的纖維， 在布枓表面形成均勻齊一的絨毛。這個處理最好是以_乾式處理方式進 仃，（亦即不加任何液體），且可岐該布料的最後—道的乾燥步驟。 成衣和塊料可以在一迴轉滾筒機裡進行一滾筒處理。如果以布料捲染 ^ ^BiancalaniAiro,^«) 進行滾筒處理。 鐘，使用空氣溫度 對一布料捆進行的滾筒處理通常不超過3〇到5〇分 5〇°C 到 150°C。 “二以本&明的方法生產的乾的溶劑減布料是—經染色的布料，其有 者乾淨、手感柔軟的表面。在布料表面均勻的、柔軟的絨毛予人—種怡人 的觸感以及怡人的外觀’有時候稱作1面效果#這均勻的絨毛賴一 更高的程度時，那麼，這布料表面就會具有'桃皮手感表面,/的特徵。 如同猶早提到過的，溶劑拉纺布料可能是平織的布料或是針織的布 *。在㈣種情形，本㈣的方法最好以布料捲的形式㈣是以展開平 田的形式_布料進行加卫。相反的，有需要解财料進行的所有的前 处理，（比方說’絲、精練和苛性化處理），則最好如展開平幅形式進 仃°如果針_布料有《精練，則可以展開伟形式對該布料進行精練。 12 1250238 這使得在處理一針織布料的整個加工過程當中，一直以布料捲的形式行進 、交知疋可能，這乃是相當大的作業上的好處。 【實施方式】 藉由下述的實施例，本發明可見一斑。在全部的實施例裡，所處理的 /奋劑拉紡布料的溶劑拉紡纖維均為Tencd公司所生產的TENCEL (註冊商 標）纖維。 實施例1 /合劑拉紡布料其含有單位重量179gsm (克/平方米）的平織布料， 以l/30s Ne的支數的紗以3χ 1的斜紋織法織成。該紗包含從重量的1〇〇% 的 TENCEL LYOCELL 纖維。 該布料經以平幅使用一水性精練浴液（其含有一非離子洗滌劑以及碳 酸鈉）在9〇°C的溫度進行精練。 讜經去漿的布料再經盤成一布料捆，該布料捆經置入到一空氣喷射染 色機裡。该機器事實上為一 ThiesRototumbler滾筒機，其經Thies公司採用 以使彳寸染色步驟與非染色滚筒加工步驟可在同一機器裡進行，使得該機器 在忒行運轉日守忐更多用途。該機器原設計是在高於大氣壓的壓力下使用。 然後’用在該誘使原纖維化步驟裡的處理液經導入到機器裡。它是一 水性溶液，其含有6·4公克/公升醋酸(1_>)以及2·〇公克/公升的A-Lube (一種潤滑劑）。然後，該誘使原纖維化步驟再在封閉的機器裡進行，而該 布料捆經輸送通經該處理液，並且受到由該空氣喷射流而產生的機械作 用。在這個步驟期間，該處理液經以每分鐘2t的速率加熱到達13〇t溫度， 13 Ϊ250238 亚在回於大氣壓力的壓力下，經維持 A 度45刀鐘。然後，該處理液再 經冷卻到50°C，然後流出該機器。 然後，該布料捲再在該機器裡經一連串的洗滌： 連續兩次以清水清洗，溫度在听，每次洗務is分鐘；缺後在一水 性浴液中進行恤滌，該輪_ 2心公相騎灰、2公克/ 公升的A-Lube以及2公克/公升的Sand〇 SPJ (一種洗滌劑），溫度在 3〇°C ’洗滌日销30分鐘；接著再續射如清水清洗兩次。 然後’驗處理的布料捲再在該同一機器裡，經染色，使用一種熱泳 移盡染法，作業時間為6小時，制—水性綠，其含有： 從布料«的3%的Pn>d〇n Navy Η舰染料（―為制如加 AG註冊商標） 硫酸納60公克/公升 蘇打灰20公克/公升 A-Lube從布料重量的2% 在經染色及洗膝之後，該布料經以一柔軟表面處理液處理。這是一種 水性浴液，含有0.5公克/公升的HansasGft27G7 (-種微侧康柔軟劑）、 1公克/公升的Edmiine CSA (—種陽離子型柔軟劑），以及丄公克/公升 的醋酸（40%)。軟化作業溫度在4〇t：，作業時間2〇分鐘。 在這個實施例裡上面所述的所有溼式加工步驟裡，布料捲在改裝過的 ThiesRototumbler滾筒機裡輸送速度均為每分鐘4〇〇公尺。 然後’邊柔軟表面處理液經排出，而機器先乾轉以將該布料乾燥，然 14 1250238 後，在該空氣喷射流的推動力之下，對該布料進行—乾的滚筒或拍打動作。 乾燥作業行75是藉著將空氣溫度逐漸升高⑴贼在此_監測空氣 的X氣3 S ®該布料域^時’該機||在空氣溫度乾轉分鐘， 接著在贼空氣溫度再乾轉15分鐘，而整個乾轉期間，布料捲輸送速度每 分鐘900公尺。 在加工結束時，該布料捲臟該機器取出，並經展開成全幅，經檢視 布料的表面。布频均句地染成飽滿的海軍藍，其有著均句整齊的乾淨表 面外觀’錢有著怡人的手感和柔軟絲面，由於效果顯著，其特徵為有 者桃皮手感〃表面。 實施例2 使用-溶劑拉紡布料其含有單位重量施gsm (克/平方米）的平織布 料’以l/20sNe的支數的紗以2xl的斜紋織法織成，重覆實施例丨的步驟。 該紗包含從«的6()%的TENCEL LY⑽LL _和财㈣替。的棉纖 維。 這樣經染色的布料經均勻地染成飽滿的海軍藍，其表面均勻且乾淨， 且有著手感柔軟的表面、怡人的外觀、充分地表現出具有特徵性的、、桃皮 手感表面。 實施例3 /谷劑拉紡布料其為一單位重量240 gsm (克/平方米）的針織布料， 以1/40s Ne的支數的紗以雙羅紋織法織成，其含有1〇〇%的tencel 15 1250238 LYOCELL 纖維。 3布，、4成-布料捲，並藉由在實施例i中所述的加工步驟處理， 但糾的疋，亚不進行精練作業。經如此處理過的布料經均勻地染色，其 有者均勻整齊的乾淨表科觀，以及怡人的手感柔軟的表面。 實施例4、5和6 使用三種不同的針織布料，重覆實施例3的步驟：_ 實施例4 -單面針織布料，其單位重量17Ggsm (克/平方米），以縣他的 支數的紗峨’私魏重量的π tencel ltocell麟，和從 重量的2.5%的LYCRA (萊卡）彈性纖維（LYC_美國杜邦公司註冊商 標）。 實施例5 -續紋織料’其單位重量2⑻，（克/平方米），以"Μ.的支數 的紗織成’其含有100%的TENCELLY〇CELL纖維。 實施例6 -雙羅紋泡泡布料，其單位重量別gsm (克/平方米），以丨心他 的支數的紗織成，其含有100%的TENCELLY〇CELL纖維。 所有這二種針織布料均經均勻地染色，有著均勻整齊的乾淨表面外 親，以及手感柔軟的表面。 16 Γ250238 實施例7 本發明的綠触實驗魏格_，赠視在&過財賴使原纖 維化步驟期間’將—聚酯/溶劑拉紡混紡布料的聚赋份染色的可能性。 該溶劑拉紡布料樣品為-平織布料，其經紗支數職％，其含有麵Thies Luft Roto, Hisaka AJ-1, Krantz Aerodye and Then AFS. When the solvent-drawn fabric is in the form of a block or a ready-to-wear form, then the equipment used may be a conventional closed dyeing tank, for example, a rotary drum dyeing machine. Rotation of the machine parts causes mechanical forces to be applied to the machine or garment to cause the desired fibrillation. 8 1250238 The aqueous solution used in the induced fibrillation step is an aqueous solution of __. Preferably, this is a low-fat slow-reducing acid. For example, there are 6 or 8 carbon atoms, and suitable compound components include acetic acid, formic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid. Acetic acid and formic acid are preferred compound ingredients. In the aqueous solution, the _ concentration, the temperature and the time of the addition of the surface are obtained, and the best results in the process of inducing the fibrillation are all related to each other; Addition and processing _ extension, can use a lower concentration I usually, for commercial and operational reasons, it is desirable to maintain the processing temperature and processing time within a reasonable limit. This is a particularly suitable treatment temperature in the induced fibrillation step between (10) t: and at such temperatures, a suitable treatment time is between 3 minutes and 8 minutes. Under such processing conditions, the concentration in the working fluid is between 2 gram/liter and 1 gram/liter. In such a wide range, the use of a particular _ will affect the concentration used. A particularly suitable concentration for acetic acid is between 2 gram/liter to gram/liter, and preferably between 3 gram/liter and 10 gram/liter. In the case of formic acid, a particularly suitable concentration is between 2 gram/liter to 4 gram/liter, and preferably 〇4 gram/liter to i2 gram/liter. Both acetic acid and formic acid use are very effective in the process of the invention. However, the use of formic acid is preferred in terms of the treatment of discharged water because it requires less chemical oxygen. The entire processing time includes a beginning period during which the seating fluid is heated to raise it to the desired processing temperature. The pressure in the treatment tank is also increased so that it can reach this temperature. In addition, at the end of the treatment, there is - off _, at this time, the new processing 9 1250238 night: the cold part, and the skeleton is washed with water, and then the dyeing step. These two periods add up to 1 曰 to y is equivalent to the processing itself, so the entire time spent on this step can be between (6) minutes and 160 minutes. The mechanical action applied to the fabric in this step causes fibrillation to occur on the surface of the fabric. This fibrillation is a type of so-called, sub-fibrillation " in such a fibril process, it will produce a protruding end of the fiber length, if these long ends of the fiber remain, Will produce a good-looking, flying hair effect on the surface of the fabric. The effect of treating the paper at a high processing temperature is to greatly weaken the force at the ends of the fibers so that they are removed from the surface of the fabric during processing. It seems that many of the fiber ends are removed during the processing, and all the remaining ends are wiped off in the next (four) color. All of the fiber ends left after the wood color step are in the form of unattached hair which will be removed from the cloth roll in the cloth roll step. Eight If the solvent _ face of the eucalyptus first through the «Mu ming line weaving or knitting, ah' the shirt is more expensive than the unicorn operation, the block and then into the processing of the gamma. This silk (or scouring) is for the traditional work, in the work, the decoration (4) - the scouring liquid (4) to remove the secret or lubricant. Another possible treatment of the solvent-spun fabric is the so-called, sulphuric acid solution using . If appropriate, this treatment should be carried out in the preparation of the present invention. (4) The lion is a buckle. The _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ In addition, causticization also enhances the upper end of the fabric. 'Ship handling may reduce the fabric's upper limit, and there is another wire that is denser than the fabric, which can help reduce the later processing. Any shrinkage _ direction. After the money is changed, the tree should be washed with hot water and then scoured and sent to the pro-sense. After the cloth has been washed at the end of the inducing fibrillation step, it is preferred to use the same - drying equipment for drying. If it is clothed by the cloth (four) shape to defend, it is difficult to equip ^ is: jet dyeing machine, better yet, - air gamma dyeing machine. The next step (4) is to introduce the dye solution into the machine, turn on the engine, and start the dyeing operation. This dyeing operation can be - traditional: dyeing and curing in solvent-spun fabrics, making secrets, and formulas for dyes and woods, including direct dyes, Gu Chun, Wei, and reactions. A dye-based formulation. For solvent-drawing fabrics obtained by blending solvent-spun fibers with polyester fibers, the squeaking-use-dispersion dyeing is performed separately, and the dyeing operation is carried out separately. Spinning __ color jobs are performed separately. In the method of this (10), we have found that it is not necessary to carry out this disperse dyeing operation separately because it can be combined with the inducing fibrillation step. As a result, the use of a higher concentration of thieves in the dyeing solution than in the disperse wood color work of the poly-textile fabric does not imply good quality, and even hinders the dyeing of the daily components of j/cloth. Conversely, the presence of the centrice does not interfere with the effect of the induced fibrillation step. After washing to remove all undyed dye, the dyed cloth can be subjected to a surface treatment, including a soft treatment. This treatment can be carried out at 1250238 after dyeing and washing to sample the fabric for any dry inter-tray steps. In the section, the surface of the dyed fabric has not yet been made clean, and the outer surface of the ft b is still flat and uneven, and there may be some non-attached woven wool. For the wide, 彳-desired surface, the cloth is treated with a roller, (sometimes called, beat), and the relatively short fibers that promote the so-called, secondary fibrillation on the surface of the fabric are treated. The surface of the fabric forms a uniform fluff. This treatment is preferably carried out in a dry process, that is, without any liquid, and the drying step of the last pass of the fabric. The garments and blocks can be subjected to a roller treatment in a rotary drum machine. If the fabric is dyed with ^ ^BiancalaniAiro, ^«), the drum is processed. Clock, using air temperature The drum treatment of a bundle of fabrics usually does not exceed 3 〇 to 5 〇 5 ° ° C to 150 ° C. "The dry solvent produced by this method is a dyed fabric, which has a clean, soft-touch surface. A uniform, soft fluff on the surface of the fabric gives a pleasant touch." Sense and pleasant appearance 'sometimes called 1 side effect # This uniform fluff is a higher degree, then the surface of the fabric will have a 'peach skin feel surface, / characteristics. As mentioned earlier However, the solvent-spun fabric may be a plain woven fabric or a knitted fabric*. In the case of (4), the method of (4) is preferably in the form of a fabric roll (4) in the form of a flat sheet of _ fabric. There is a need to solve all the pre-treatments of the materials, (for example, 'silk, scouring and caustic treatments', it is best to expand into a flat format. If the needle_cloth has "refined, you can expand the form." Refining the fabric. 12 1250238 This makes it possible to travel in the form of a fabric roll during the entire processing of a knitted fabric, which is a considerable operational benefit. [Embodiment] The present invention can be seen in the following examples. In all of the examples, the solvent-spun fibers of the treated/felt-spun fabrics were TENCEL (registered trademark) fibers produced by Tencd. Example 1 / A mixture of woven fabrics having a basis weight of 179 gsm (grams per square meter) of a woven fabric of 1/30 s Ne is woven by a 3 χ 1 twill weave. The yarn contains 1% by weight of the woven fabric. TENCEL LYOCELL fiber. The fabric is scoured at a temperature of 9 ° C using a water-based scouring bath containing a non-ionic detergent and sodium carbonate. The tared fabric is then woven into a bundle. The fabric bundle is placed in an air jet dyeing machine. The machine is in fact a ThiesRototumbler roller machine, which is used by Thies to allow the inch dyeing step and the non-dyed drum processing step to be carried out in the same machine. The machine was used for more purposes during the day of operation. The machine was originally designed to be used at pressures above atmospheric pressure. The treatment fluid used in the induced fibrillation step was then introduced into the machine. It is an aqueous solution containing 6.4 g/L acetic acid (1_>) and 2·〇g/L of A-Lube (a lubricant). Then, the fibrillation step is induced in a closed machine. The fabric bundle is conveyed through the treatment liquid and subjected to mechanical action by the air jet. During this step, the treatment liquid is heated to a temperature of 13 Torr at a rate of 2 t per minute, 13 Ϊ250238 Ya is maintained at A pressure for 45 knives under pressure from atmospheric pressure. The treatment liquid is then cooled to 50 ° C and then flows out of the machine. Then, the cloth roll is passed through the machine in a series of Washing: Wash twice in clean water, the temperature is listening, every wash is minute; after the lack of a bath in a water-based bath, the round _ 2 heart-like ash, 2 g / liter of A-Lube And 2 g / liter of Sand 〇 SPJ (a detergent), the temperature is 3 ° ° C 'washing daily sales for 30 minutes; then continue to spray twice as clean water. Then the 'processed fabric roll is then dyed in the same machine, using a hot-water transfer method, the working time is 6 hours, the system - water-green green, which contains: 3% Pn>d from the fabric « 〇n Navy Η 染料 染料 ( ― ― ― 60 60 60 Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Na Soft surface treatment. This is an aqueous bath containing 0.5 g/L of Hansas Gft27G7 (a kind of micro-side softener), 1 g/L of Edmiine CSA (a cationic softener), and 丄g/L of acetic acid (40%) ). The softening operation temperature is 4〇t:, and the working time is 2〇 minutes. In all of the wet processing steps described above in this embodiment, the fabric rolls were conveyed at a speed of 4 ft. per minute in a modified Thies Rototumbler drum machine. Then, the soft surface treatment liquid is discharged, and the machine first drys to dry the cloth, and after 14 1250238, under the driving force of the air jet, the cloth is subjected to a dry drum or tapping action. The drying operation line 75 is to gradually increase the temperature of the air (1) the thief is here to monitor the air X gas 3 S ® the cloth field ^ when the machine | | dry in the air temperature for a minute, then dry at the thief air temperature The transfer was carried out for 15 minutes, and during the entire dry run, the fabric roll was conveyed at a speed of 900 meters per minute. At the end of the process, the fabric roll is taken out of the machine and unrolled into a full width to examine the surface of the fabric. The cloth frequency is dyed into a full navy blue, which has a neat and clean surface appearance. The money has a pleasant touch and soft silk surface. Because of its remarkable effect, it is characterized by the peach skin feels on the surface. Example 2 A solvent-drawing fabric containing a unit weight of gsm (g/m 2 ) of a plain woven fabric' yarn of a count of 1/20 sNe was woven by a 2xl twill weave, and the procedure of Example 重 was repeated. . The yarn contains from 6 (%) of TENCEL LY (10) LL _ and Cai (four). Cotton fiber. The dyed fabric is uniformly dyed into a full navy blue, and its surface is uniform and clean, and has a soft surface, a pleasant appearance, and a characteristic, peach-feel surface. Example 3 / cereal pull-spun fabric is a knitted fabric having a unit weight of 240 gsm (g/m 2 ), and a yarn of 1/40 s Ne count is woven by double rib weave, which contains 1% by weight. Tencel 15 1250238 LYOCELL fiber. 3 cloth, 4% - cloth roll, and processed by the processing steps described in the embodiment i, but the correction is not performed. The thus treated cloth is uniformly dyed, and the others are evenly neat and clean, and a pleasant soft surface. Examples 4, 5 and 6 The procedure of Example 3 was repeated using three different knit fabrics: _ Example 4 - Single jersey fabric having a basis weight of 17 Ggsm (g/m2), counted by the count of the county The veils 'private weight π tencel ltocell lin, and 2.5% from the weight of LYCRA (Leica) elastic fiber (LYC_ US DuPont registered trademark). Example 5 - Continuation woven fabric' unit weight 2 (8), (g/m2), woven into yarns of the number of "Μ.' which contained 100% TENCELLY® CELL fiber. Example 6 - A double ribbed bubble cloth having a basis weight of gsm (grams per square meter) woven from yarn of a number of tens of thousands of TENCELLY(R) CELL fibers. All of these two knit fabrics are evenly dyed, with a neat, clean surface and a soft-touch surface. 16 Γ250238 Example 7 The green touch test of the present invention, Weige _, gives the possibility of dyeing the poly-components of the polyester/solvent-spun blended fabric during the fibrillation step during the fibrillation step. The sample of the solvent-drawn fabric is a plain woven fabric, and the warp yarn count is %, which contains a surface.
的TENCEL LYOCELL纖維，其緯紗主數彳M ΐ /文数l/53sNe，其含有ι〇〇〇/0的聚酯纖 維。整體的TENCEL/聚酯混紡比例為7〇 : 3〇 (從重量）。 在該布料樣品經精練以去除所有聚料之後，在一實驗室規模的迴轉染 色機’ - R⑽hes RGtadyer裡經加卫。該布料樣品經連同—水性處理液置 入到-染色管理，該水性處理液含有6·4公克/公升醋酸、i q _ (毫升 /公升）DS-14 (-種分散劑），以及從布料重量⑽的_瞻 (-種用來將聚S旨緯紗染色的分散轉）其處理麟布料比為2(): 1 (從重 量）。然後，該祕管再置人_齡缝經加玉。該處理賴溫度經設定 在50°C5分鐘，再以每分鐘1穴的速率經升溫到。該處理液在高於 大氣壓的壓力下經維持在13(TC溫度45分鐘，然後再經冷卻到8(rc。 然後，該布料樣品經從該染色管取出，以清水澈底清洗，然後再回到 _色管’讀將TENCEL纖維成份染色。所使_水性染色液含有從布 料重量1%的Prodon Navy H-EXL、40公克/公升的硫酸鈉，以及3公克 /公升的Ludisol (—種氧化劑）。其處理液對布料比為2〇 : i。 該布料樣品在Roaches Rotadyer迴轉染色機中，使用一種熱泳移盡染 去經染色，在该染色法裡，該布料樣品首先在染液輔助劑中經設定在 溫度5分鐘，然後再將染料加入到染液中。接著，該染液的溫度經以每分 17 1250238 鐘1.5°C的速率升高到95°C，而該處理液經維持在95t：3〇分鐘，然後經冷 P到80 C/m度。然後，以15公克/公升的濃度將碳酸鈉加到染液裡，並且 繼續將染液溫度維持在80°c45分鐘。 該經染色的布料樣品經從該染色管取出，以清水清洗，然後再在一含 有2公克/公升Sandopur SR (一種洗滌劑）的水性溶液裡在95它溫度下 洗滌20分鐘，然後再以清水清洗，然後置空氣中讓它乾燥。 該乾燥的布料樣本經在含有從布料重量2%的Hansas〇ft 27〇7和3公克 /公升的Sandadd (經缓衝的醋酸）的水性柔軟液中經柔化。該柔軟液在 —Tupesa成衣染色機中，在贼的溫度經施給到該布料樣本2〇分鐘。然 後，該布轧經在-成衣滾筒乾燥機裡，以贼溫度經滾筒乾燥％分鐘，繼 之以20分鐘的冷卻期間。 該布料樣本經均勻地染成-海軍藍，且絲乾淨、手感綠的表面。 辭感柔軟的表面並不如前述幾個實施例裡所賴商業規模試驗中所達到 的表面那麼的顯著，但是卻足以證誠處理結合將該布料的聚醋成份 的分散染色加工是可行的。 實施例8 使用-平織溶劑拉紡布料重覆實施例7的步驟，該布料的經紗支數 l/30sNe，含從重量65%的TENCEL LYQCELL _和㈣量35%的黏膠人 造纖維，而緯紗支數l/57sNe，含100%的聚醋纖維。整體的混纺比例為邾 TENCEL LYOCELL : 25黏膠人造纖維·· 29聚酯（從重量比）。 在步驟的最後，該溶劑拉紡柿触依照實施例7的布料加工的同樣 18 1250238 標準加以染色並行表面處理。 實施例9 -溶劑拉纺布料其含辑位重量24Ggsm (克 以娜的聰CELLY0CELL纖維以雙羅紋織法織成。該布料^布料， =式置一型試驗_喷射染色機梗(--。二布:: 為經5又计以鬲於大氣壓的壓力操作。 接者’用在誘使原纖維化步驟裡的處理液經導人到該機器裡。這處理 液是一水性溶液，其包含G.8公克/公升蟻酸⑽％)和4公克/八升 (―種_)。這處理液的溫度設定在机。然後，該機器再在 封閉的條件·，_布料捲_職_絲送通_器。在這 個步驟躺，贿理祕贿分鐘吹魏率祕細達13(rc溫度，並 且在高於大氣壓_力下’經維持在該溫度45分鐘。織，該處理液再經 冷部到50。(：，然後經流出該機器。 然後，該布料捲在該同一喷射染色機裡經清洗、 染色以及施以一柔軟 表面處理’使用如實施例1中所述的同樣的配方和條件。 —錢—連㈣作紐树，該布料捲經㈣傭染色機取出 ，並置入 實例1中提到的經改裝的Thies R咖U刪er機裡，如同實施例i中所 述的進行乾式拍打作業。 、 Λ R〇t〇tUmbler〉袞筒機取出之後，該布料經展開成平幅並加以檢 ' ♦料、&均勻地染色’有著均勻整齊的乾淨表面外觀，以及怡人 的手感柔軟的表面。 19The TENCEL LYOCELL fiber has a weft main number 彳M ΐ / number l/53sNe, which contains ι〇〇〇/0 polyester fiber. The overall TENCEL/polyester blend ratio is 7〇 : 3〇 (from weight). After the cloth sample was scoured to remove all the aggregates, it was reinforced in a laboratory-scale rotary dyeing machine '-R(10)hes RGtadyer. The cloth sample is placed in a dyeing management together with an aqueous treatment solution containing 6.4 g/liter acetic acid, iq _ (ml/liter) DS-14 (-dispersant), and weight from the cloth. (10) _ _ (- used to dye the poly-S weft yarn dyed dispersion) its processing lining cloth ratio of 2 (): 1 (from the weight). Then, the secret tube is re-placed. The treatment temperature was set at 50 ° C for 5 minutes and then heated to a rate of 1 point per minute. The treatment liquid is maintained at 13 at a pressure above atmospheric pressure (TC temperature for 45 minutes, and then cooled to 8 (rc. Then, the cloth sample is taken out from the dye tube, washed with water, then returned _Color tube 'reading dyes the TENCEL fiber component. The water-based dyeing solution contains 1% Prodon Navy H-EXL from the cloth, 40 g/L sodium sulfate, and 3 g/L Ludisol (an oxidizing agent). The ratio of the treatment liquid to the cloth is 2〇: i. The cloth sample is dyed in a Roaches Rotadyer rotary dyeing machine using a thermophoresis. In the dyeing method, the cloth sample is first in the dyeing aid. The medium is set at a temperature of 5 minutes, and then the dye is added to the dye solution. Then, the temperature of the dye solution is raised to 95 ° C at a rate of 17 1250 238 minutes per minute, and the treatment liquid is maintained. At 95t: 3 〇 minutes, then cold P to 80 C / m degrees. Then, sodium carbonate was added to the dye solution at a concentration of 15 g / liter, and the dye temperature was maintained at 80 ° c for 45 minutes. The dyed cloth sample is taken out from the dyeing tube to Wash with water and then wash at 95 °C for 20 minutes in an aqueous solution containing 2 g/L of Sandopur SR (a detergent), then rinse with water, then let it dry in air. The sample was softened in an aqueous softening solution containing 2% of Hansas 〇ft 27〇7 and 3 gram/liter of Sandadd (buffered acetic acid). The soft liquid was in a Tupesa garment dyeing machine. The temperature of the thief is applied to the cloth sample for 2 minutes. Then, the cloth is rolled in a clothes-drying drum dryer, and the thief temperature is dried by the drum for 1 minute, followed by a cooling period of 20 minutes. Uniformly dyed into a navy-blue, silky, green-skinned surface. The soft-sounding surface is not as significant as the surface achieved in the commercial scale tests in the previous examples, but it is sufficient to justify It is possible to combine the disperse dyeing process of the polyester component of the cloth. Example 8 The procedure of Example 7 was repeated using a plain weave solvent, and the warp count of the cloth was 1/30 sNe, containing 6 weights. 5% TENCEL LYQCELL _ and (4) 35% viscose rayon, and weft count l/57sNe, containing 100% polyester fiber. The overall blend ratio is 邾TENCEL LYOCELL: 25 viscose rayon·· 29 Polyester (from weight ratio). At the end of the step, the solvent-pulsed persimmon was dyed in parallel with the same 18 1250238 standard of the fabric processing of Example 7. Example 9 - Solvent-drawn fabric containing the binding weight 24Ggsm (Kelina's CELLY0CELL fiber is woven with double rib weave. The fabric ^ fabric, = type one test _ jet dyeing machine stalk (--. two cloth:: for the pressure of 5 after the pressure of atmospheric pressure. Receiver 'used in the process of inducing fibrillation The treatment liquid is introduced into the machine. The treatment liquid is an aqueous solution containing G. 8 g/liter of formic acid (10% by weight) and 4 g/8 liter ("species"). The temperature of this treatment liquid is set at the machine. Then, the machine is again in the closed condition, _ cloth roll _ job _ wire feed _ device. At this step, the bribe is secreted for a minute and the rate is 13 (rc temperature, and at a temperature above atmospheric pressure _ force) is maintained at that temperature for 45 minutes. The process is then passed through the cold to 50. (:, then exiting the machine. The cloth roll is then washed, dyed and subjected to a soft surface treatment in the same jet dyeing machine' using the same formulation and conditions as described in Example 1. - Money - (4) for the new tree, the fabric roll is taken out by the (4) commission dyeing machine, and placed in the modified Thies R coffee machine, as described in Example 1, for dry-scraping as described in Example i Λ 〇 R〇t〇tUmbler> After the boring machine is taken out, the fabric is unrolled into a flat sheet and inspected. ♦ Material, & uniformly dyed. It has a neat and clean surface appearance, and a pleasant soft surface. 19