TW201912861A - Double jersey - Google Patents

Abstract

Provided is a double knit in which a first knitting yarn and a second knitting yarn are knitted by plating, wherein the first knitting yarn comprises a composite yarn including a first polyurethane yarn, and a non-elastic yarn other than the first polyurethane yarn; and the second knitting yarn comprises a second polyurethane yarn.

Description

Double knitted fabric

The invention relates to a double-faced knitted fabric knitted by adding yarn.

When a knitted fabric containing polyurethane yarns and yarns other than polyurethane yarns is used for clothes, it has high stretchability or style characteristics, and an excellent wearing feeling can be obtained.

Patent Document 1 discloses a yarn made of polyurethane fiber, synthetic fiber, regenerated fiber, natural fiber, etc. of polyester yarn, nylon, acrylic, polyvinyl alcohol, etc. with a heat deformation starting temperature of 150 to 190 ° C Double-faced knitted fabric woven with additional yarn. According to Patent Document 1, weaving in such a way that yarns other than elastic yarns appear on both sides of the knitted fabric and elastic yarns appear on the inside of the knitted fabric, it is possible to obtain a cut portion that does not require finishing (without hemming), and the occurrence of yarn run or curl is suppressed Knitted fabric. [Prior Technical Literature] [Patent Literature]

[Patent Document 1] International Publication No. 2009/011440 pamphlet

In recent years, in order to add value to knitted fabrics, a technology for further improving the elasticity of knitted fabrics has been sought. In order to increase the stretchability of the knitted fabric of Patent Document 1, it is considered to increase the content of polyurethane yarn. However, polyurethane yarn is not easily dyed. Therefore, if the content of the polyurethane yarn in the knitted fabric is increased, the warp marking phenomenon of the polyurethane yarn exposed on the surface of the knitted fabric is likely to occur. In addition, the mass per unit area of the knitted fabric tends to increase. In order to maintain the elasticity of the knitted fabric while reducing the mass or thickness per unit area of the knitted fabric, it is necessary to reduce yarns other than polyurethane yarns. In this case, as a result, the content ratio of the polyurethane yarn increases, so the warp marking phenomenon easily occurs.

The object of the present invention is to provide a double-faced knitted fabric that is less prone to warp marking and has an elasticity equal to or greater than that of conventional knitted fabrics, and at the same time can reduce the mass or thickness of the knitted fabric per unit area. [Means to solve the problem]

The present invention relates to a double-faced knitted fabric obtained by knitting a first knitting yarn and a second knitting yarn. The first knitting yarn includes a composite yarn, and the composite yarn includes a first polyurethane yarn and a 1 Non-elastic yarn other than polyurethane yarn, the second braid includes the second polyurethane yarn.

According to this double-faced knitted fabric (hereinafter referred to as a knitted fabric for short), the warp marking phenomenon is not likely to occur, and has the same durability and stretchability as the conventional knitted fabric, and can reduce the mass per unit area or thickness.

The fineness of the composite yarn is preferably from 19 to 112 dtex from the viewpoint of improving the knitability and obtaining a double-knit fabric with high stretchability.

From the same viewpoint, the fineness of the first polyurethane yarn is preferably 11 to 56 dtex.

The fineness of the non-elastic yarn is preferably 8 to 56 dtex from the viewpoint of easy prevention of warp marking or yarn running of the double-faced knitted fabric.

The heat deformation starting temperature of the first polyurethane yarn and the second polyurethane yarn is preferably 150 to 190 ° C. This is because when the double-faced knitted fabric is heat-set, the first polyurethane yarns or the second polyurethane yarns are easily deformed in contact with each other, and in this state, it is easy to be appropriately shaped.

After stretching the double-faced knitted fabric to the weft direction at a stretch rate of 300 ± 20 mm / min to 80% elongation, return to the original state at a rate of 300 ± 20 mm / min, perform this treatment 3 times, and repeat the above 3 times ST1 stress to elongation ₍₃₀₎ 30% elongation point of time when processing the third contraction process returns to the above-described stress SR1 elongation 30% of the time point ₍₃₀₎ of the power value P1 is obtained by dividing the total 2 _{( 30)} Preferably 70 to 180 cN. In this case, the double-faced knitted fabric has high stretchability.

The value of the power value P1 ₍₃₀₎ divided by the mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric is preferably 0.55 to 1.1 cN ･ m ² / g.

In addition, after stretching the double-faced knitted fabric in the weft direction at a stretch rate of 300 ± 20 mm / min to 80% elongation, it is restored to its original state at a rate of 300 ± 20 mm / min, and this treatment is performed 3 times, the third time The stress SR1 ₍₁₅₎ at the time point when the shrinkage recovers to 15% elongation during the above treatment is preferably 20 to 100 cN. In this case, the double-faced knitted fabric has a high shrinkage force even in a low-elongation area.

The value obtained by dividing the above stress SR1 ₍₁₅₎ by the mass per unit area of the double-face knitted fabric is preferably 0.07 to 1 cN ･ m ² / g.

The mass per unit area of the double-face knitted fabric is preferably 100 to 260 g / m ² . Even such a light double-faced knitted fabric has high stretchability. [Effect of invention]

According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a double-faced knitted fabric that is less likely to cause warp marking and has an elasticity equal to or higher than that of a conventional knitted fabric.

The double-faced knitted fabric of this embodiment includes the first knitting yarn and the second knitting yarn. The first braided yarn includes a composite yarn including a first polyurethane yarn and a non-elastic yarn other than the first polyurethane yarn, and the second braided yarn includes a second polyurethane yarn. The double-faced knitted fabric is obtained by knitting the first braided yarn on both surfaces of the double-faced knitted fabric, and the second braided yarn is arranged inside the double-faced knitted fabric.

In this specification, non-elastic yarn means yarn other than elastic yarn. Here, the elastic yarn refers to a yarn having an elongation of 100% or more under a load of 5 cN and a recovery rate of 90% or more after 100% elongation.

By knitting a composite yarn including the first polyurethane yarn and the non-elastic yarn and the second polyurethane yarn, and weaving it with the conventional polyurethane yarn and the non-elastic yarn Compared with the double-sided knitted fabric, it does not increase the mass per unit area, but can increase the proportion of polyurethane yarn contained in the double-sided knitted fabric. In other words, in order to maintain the stretching force of the double-sided knitted fabric while reducing the mass or thickness per unit area, it is not necessary to reduce the yarns other than the polyurethane yarn as in the conventional double-sided knitted fabric. Therefore, the warp marking phenomenon caused by the increase in the proportion of polyurethane yarn can be suppressed. Therefore, according to the present embodiment, it is possible to obtain a double-faced knitted fabric having an expansion force equal to or higher than that in the past, while suppressing the warp marking phenomenon.

In addition, when heat setting is performed on the double-faced knitted fabric, the first polyurethane yarns or the second polyurethane yarns are in contact with each other and deformed, and are appropriately shaped in this state. Therefore, the double-sided knitted fabric can maintain high expansion and contraction force. In addition, this double-faced knitted fabric is also less likely to deform, slip off stitches, slack, fray, yarn run, curl, etc., and has excellent durability. Therefore, even after cutting in an arbitrary shape formed by a straight line, a curve, or a combination of a curve and a straight line, etc., it is possible to omit the hemming step of closing the cut portion.

[First knitting yarn] The first knitting yarn includes a composite yarn including a first polyurethane yarn and a non-elastic yarn other than the first polyurethane yarn.

In the first braided yarn, in addition to the composite yarn including the first polyurethane yarn and the non-elastic yarn, synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, polyvinyl alcohol, etc. can also be used; Cellulose fibers; natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, silk, etc .; and these composite fibers. Especially polyester, nylon and regenerated cellulose fibers are preferred. These yarns may be interwoven on the surface where the first braid is arranged. In particular, if the same yarn as the yarn selected as the non-elastic yarn is used as the yarn other than this composite yarn, the cost associated with fabric manufacturing can be reduced. However, from the viewpoint that the warp patterning phenomenon does not easily occur, and it is easy to obtain an elasticity equal to or greater than that of the conventional double-faced knitted fabric, in the first braided yarn, the composite yarn The proportion of total yarn) is preferably 90% by mass or more.

(Composite yarn) A composite yarn includes a first polyurethane yarn and a non-elastic yarn other than the first polyurethane yarn. The form of the composite yarn is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include a covered yarn, a twisted yarn, or a entangled yarn (for example, an air-entangled yarn). In particular, the composite yarn is preferably a covered yarn. This makes it easy to exert the stretchability of the first polyurethane yarn.

The covering yarn may be a single covering yarn (SCY) with a non-elastic yarn wrapped around the first polyurethane yarn in a single layer, or may be a double covering in different directions around the first polyurethane yarn Double covered yarn (DCY) with layers of non-elastic yarn wound. In particular, from the viewpoint that the obtained double-faced knitted fabric is easily thinned and the air permeability of the double-faced knitted fabric is easily improved, the single-covered yarn is preferable.

In the case where the composite yarn is a covered yarn and a twisted yarn, the twist number is preferably 100 to 1800 T / m. When the number of twists is 100 T / m or more, the processing stability when weaving a double-faced knitted fabric is easily improved, the ratio of the first polyurethane yarn coating is increased, and the warp phenomenon is less likely to occur. In addition, if it is 1800 T / m or less, the binding force on the first polyurethane yarn is reduced, and the stretchability is not easily damaged.

When the composite yarn is an interlaced yarn, the interlaced number is preferably 30 to 150 pieces / m. If the number of crossovers is 30 / m or more, the processing stability during weaving is high, and if it is 150 / m or less, the ratio of the first polyurethane yarn coating will not become too high, and the first polyamine Formate yarns are easy to set with each other moderately.

When producing the covering yarn and the interlacing yarn, the ratio (drawing ratio) at which the first polyurethane yarn is stretched is preferably 1.8 to 3.8. When the draw ratio is 1.8 or more, the phenomenon that the fineness of the composite yarn becomes too large or the yarn length becomes too short is suppressed. In addition, when the draw ratio is 3.8 or less, fluffing or yarn breakage does not occur, and damage during knitting of the double-faced knitted fabric and other processing is easily suppressed.

The fineness of the composite yarn is preferably 19 to 112 dtex, and preferably 34 to 67 dtex. When the fineness is 19 dtex or more, when a double-sided knitted fabric including the first and second braided yarns is heat-set, wire breakage is easily suppressed, and a reduction in elongation recoverability or stretch force of the double-sided knitted fabric is unlikely to occur. In addition, when the fineness is 112 dtex or less, the braidability is easily improved, and the phenomenon of excessive stretch force of the double-sided knitted fabric is suppressed.

(First Polyurethane Yarn) The fineness of the first polyurethane yarn is preferably from 11 to 56 dtex, and preferably from 15 to 44 dtex. If the fineness is 11 dtex or more, when the double-sided knitted fabric including the first and second braided yarns is heat-set, the yarn breakage is easily suppressed, and the reduction in elongation recoverability or stretch force of the double-sided knitted fabric is unlikely to occur. If the fineness is 56 dtex or less, the braidability is easily improved, and the phenomenon of excessive stretch force of the double-faced knitted fabric is suppressed.

The heat deformation starting temperature of the first polyurethane yarn is preferably 150 to 190 ° C. As a result, when heat-setting or the like is performed on the double-faced knitted fabric, the first polyurethane yarns are in contact with each other and are easily deformed. On the other hand, the deformed first polyurethane yarns are not completely shaped, but can be shaped appropriately. In addition, even when the double-faced knitted fabric is heat-set at a high temperature of 195 to 205 ° C., the first polyurethane yarn is not easily brittle, so the stretchability or strength is not easily damaged. Here, the heat deformation starting temperature of the polyurethane yarn can be measured by, for example, the following method.

(Heat deformation initiation temperature) It can be measured using a thermal stress tester (for example, KE-2S manufactured by Old Bell Textile Engineering Co., Ltd.). A jig with hooks is installed above and below the testing machine, and the polyurethane yarn to be tested is hanked between the upper and lower hooks 10 times. With the initial load of 20 cN applied to the twisted polyurethane yarn, the circumference of the polyurethane yarn was heated at 2.2 ° C./sec, and the application to the twisted polyurethane was measured The load of the yarn becomes the temperature at 20 cN again. This measurement was performed twice, and the average value of the two measured values was set as the thermal deformation starting temperature.

The first polyurethane yarn can be used alone, or two or more polyurethane yarns can be used in combination.

(Non-elastic yarn) The non-elastic yarn included in the first braid is, for example, a fiber having an elastic modulus lower than that of the first polyurethane yarn. As such fibers, synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, and polyvinyl alcohol; regenerated cellulose fibers such as rayon; natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, and silk; and composite fibers of these types can be used. Especially polyester, nylon and regenerated cellulose fibers are preferred. Non-elastic yarns can be used alone or in combination of two or more. In particular, in the case of performing sulfonate treatment and heat setting treatment to be described later on the double-faced knitted fabric, the non-elastic yarn preferably contains polyester, nylon, and regenerated cellulose fiber. This is because even after adding the sulfonate-containing treatment liquid, heat setting is performed at a high temperature (for example, 195 to 205 ° C.), and the embrittlement of the yarn such as yellowing is easily suppressed.

The fineness of the non-elastic yarn is to satisfy the fineness ratio of the first polyurethane yarn to the non-elastic yarn: the non-elastic yarn / first polyurethane yarn is preferably in the range of 0.3 to 3. When the above-mentioned fineness ratio is 0.3 or more, the warp marking phenomenon is unlikely to occur, and the appearance or tactile feel of the double-sided knitted fabric is improved. In addition, when the fineness ratio is 3 or less, the occurrence of yarn run is easily suppressed.

Specifically, the fineness of the non-elastic yarn is preferably 8 to 56 dtex, and preferably 15 to 44 dtex. If the fineness is 8 dtex or more, it is not easy to break the yarn, and it is easy to suppress the excessive ratio of the first polyurethane yarn exposed on the surface of the composite yarn. If the fineness is 56 dtex or less, the stretchability of the first polyurethane yarn is easily exerted, and the stretchability of the entire composite yarn is improved. In addition, the case where the above-mentioned exposure ratio of the first polyurethane yarn is too small is suppressed, and the effect of preventing yarn run-off is easily obtained.

[Second braid] The second braid contains the second polyurethane yarn. The second braided yarn may include, in addition to the second polyurethane yarn, yarns exemplified by yarns other than the composite yarn in the first braided yarn. However, from the viewpoint that the warp warping phenomenon is less likely to occur and it is easy to obtain the same or more stretching force as the conventional double-sided knitted fabric, the second polyurethane yarn accounts for 90% of the second braided yarn. It is better if the quality is above%.

(Second polyurethane yarn) The fineness of the second polyurethane yarn is preferably from 11 to 56 dtex, and preferably from 17 to 44 dtex. If the fineness is 11 dtex or more, when a double-faced knitted fabric including the first and second knitting yarns is heat-set, the broken yarn is easily suppressed, and the elongation recovery of the double-faced knitted fabric or the reduction in stretch force is unlikely to occur. If the fineness is 56 dtex or less, the braidability is easily improved, and the excessive stretch force of the double-face knitted fabric is suppressed.

The heat deformation starting temperature of the second polyurethane yarn is preferably 150 to 190 ° C. In this way, in the case of processing such as heat setting of the double-faced knitted fabric, the second polyurethane yarns are in contact with each other and are easily deformed. On the other hand, the deformed second polyurethane yarns are not completely shaped with each other Can be properly stereotyped. In addition, even when the double-faced knitted fabric is heat-set at a high temperature of 195 to 205 ° C, the second polyurethane yarn is not easily embrittled, so stretchability or strength is not easily damaged.

[Double Knitted Fabric] The double knit fabric of the present embodiment is added yarn knitting such that the first knitting yarn is arranged on both surfaces of the double knit fabric and the second knitting yarn is arranged inside the double knit fabric Double-sided knitted fabric.

The fineness ratio of the composite yarn contained in the double-faced knitted fabric to the second polyurethane yarn: the second polyurethane yarn / composite yarn is preferably 0.3 to 3, and preferably 0.5 to 2. When the above-mentioned fineness ratio is less than 0.3, the warp marking phenomenon is likely to occur, and the appearance or feel of the double-sided knitted fabric may be reduced. In addition, if the fineness ratio is greater than 3, the occurrence of yarn run is less likely to be suppressed.

The mass ratio of the non-elastic yarn to the first polyurethane yarn and the second polyurethane yarn in the entire double knitted fabric: non-elastic yarn / first polyurethane yarn and second polyurethane The formate yarn is preferably 0.75 to 4, preferably 1 to 3. When the above-mentioned mass ratio is less than 0.75, warp markings are likely to occur, and the appearance or feel of the double-faced knitted fabric is impaired. In addition, if the above-mentioned mass ratio is greater than 4, the occurrence of yarn run-off is less likely to be suppressed.

The thickness of the double-face knitted fabric is preferably 380 to 600 μm. As long as the thickness is within the above range, the wearing feeling when the double-sided knitted fabric is made into clothes and used is easily improved.

In addition, the mass per unit area of the double-face knitted fabric is preferably 100 to 260 g / m ^{2, and} preferably 120 to 200 g / m ² . When the mass per unit area of the double-face knitted fabric is 100 g / m ² or more, sufficient strength can be obtained. In addition, when the mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric is 260 g / m ² or less, the wearing feeling when the double-sided knitted fabric is used as clothing and used is easily improved.

The product of the warp density and weft density of the double-face knitted fabric is preferably 5000 / square inch or more. The larger the product of warp density and weft density, the tension applied to each yarn loop is easily reduced when the double-sided knitted fabric is extended in the warp and weft directions. Therefore, even when the force (constraint force) for maintaining the yarn loop is small, the occurrence of yarn run is easily suppressed.

The elongation of clothing (knitted fabric) when worn is generally 20 to 30%. Therefore, it is preferable that the double-faced knitted fabric exhibit a sufficient tightening feeling (tightening force) under such an elongation. In addition, it is preferable that a sufficient tightening feeling can be obtained even when the elongation is low (for example, the elongation is 10 to 15%).

Stretch the double-faced knitted fabric to the weft direction of the double-faced knitted fabric at an extension speed of 300 ± 20 mm / min to an extension of 80%, then return to the original state at a speed of 300 ± 20 mm / min, and perform this treatment 3 times. In the third treatment, the sum of the stress ST1 ₍₃₀₎ at the time point of elongation to 30% elongation and the stress SR1 ₍₃₀₎ at the time point of contraction to 30% elongation is divided by 2 to obtain the power value P1 _{(30 )} , Preferably 70 ~ 180cN. When the power value P1 _{(30) is} within this range, a sufficient tightening feeling can be easily obtained from the double-face knitted fabric.

In addition to extending the double-faced knitted fabric in the warp direction, the power value P2 ₍₃₀₎ obtained in the same manner as above is preferably 70 to 180 cN. In addition, there will be power value P1 of the weft direction ₍₃₀₎ and the power value P2 in the warp direction ₍₃₀₎ referred to the total power value P ₍₃₀₎ of the case. Similarly, the stress ST1 _{(30) in the} weft direction and ST2 _{(30) in the} warp direction are collectively referred to as the stress ST ₍₃₀₎ , and the stress SR1 _{(30) in the} weft direction and SR2 _{(30) in the} warp direction are collectively referred to as This is the case of stress SR ₍₃₀₎ .

When elongating the double-faced knitted fabric in the weft direction, the value of dividing the power value P1 ₍₃₀₎ by the mass per unit area of the double-faced knitted fabric is preferably 0.55 to 1.1 cN ･ m ² / g. When the above value is in this range, even if the fabric is light in texture, a sufficient tightening feeling can be obtained.

Stretch the double-faced knitted fabric to the weft direction at a stretch speed of 300 ± 20mm / min to 80% elongation, then return to the original state at a speed of 300 ± 20mm / min, perform this treatment 3 times, the third time The stress SR1 ₍₁₅₎ at the time point when the contraction recovers to 15% elongation is preferably 20 to 100 cN, preferably 25 to 50 cN. In this case, the double-faced knitted fabric has a high shrinkage force even in a low-elongation area.

In order to obtain a good wearing feeling, the stress SR2 ₍₁₅₎ measured in the same manner as the stress SR1 ₍₁₅₎ for the warp direction of the double-face knitted fabric is preferably 10 to 100 cN, preferably 25 to 50 cN. In addition, the stresses SR1 ₍₁₅₎ and SR2 _{(15) may be} collectively referred to as stress SR ₍₁₅₎ .

Similar to the power value P ₍₃₀₎ , the power value P ₍₁₅₎ can be restored to the 15% elongation time by the stress ST ₍₁₅₎ at the time of elongation to 15% elongation and shrinkage during the third treatment The total point stress SR ₍₁₅₎ is calculated by dividing by 2. The power value P1 ₍₁₅₎ when the double-sided knitted fabric is extended and recovered in the weft direction is preferably 38 to 80 cN. When the power value P1 _{(15) is} in this range, a sufficient sense of tightness can be obtained. In addition, the power value P2 ₍₁₅₎ at the time of extending and recovering the double-faced knitted fabric in the warp direction is preferably 15 to 55 cN. Here, stress ST ₍₁₅₎ ST1 is the stress direction of the weft ₍₁₅₎ in the warp direction and ST2 ₍₁₅₎ is a generic term, the value of power P ₍₁₅₎ is a power value Pl weft direction ₍₁₅₎ and the warp direction Generic term for power value P2 ₍₁₅₎ .

When elongating the double-faced knitted fabric in the weft direction, the value of the power value P1 ₍₁₅₎ divided by the mass per unit area of the double-faced knitted fabric is preferably 0.2 to 0.5 cN ･ m ² / g. When the above value is in this range, even if the fabric is light in texture, a sufficient sense of tightness can be obtained.

In addition, when the double-faced knitted fabric is elongated in the weft direction, the value of dividing the above-mentioned stress SR1 ₍₁₅₎ by the mass per unit area of the double-faced knitted fabric is preferably 0.07 to 1 cN ･ m ² / g. When the above value is in this range, the double knitting material is light, and at the same time, it can show a sufficient sense of tightness.

(power value) The power value can be measured by, for example, the following method. Three test pieces with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 16 cm were cut from the double-sided knitted fabric in the weft direction and the warp direction respectively. A test piece with a length of 16 cm in the weft direction is used to obtain the power value in the weft direction, and a test piece with a length of 16 cm in the warp direction is used to obtain the power value in the warp direction. If a test piece of this size cannot be cut from the double-sided knitted fabric to be measured, a test piece smaller than this size can also be used. However, the smaller the test piece, the larger the measurement error, so it is better to cut out and take a test piece close to the above-mentioned size for measurement within the possible range.

Each stress was measured using a constant-speed tensile tester (Autograph, manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, AG-500D). When the test piece is mounted on the testing machine, the length of the portion of the test piece clamped by the upper clamp (hereinafter also referred to as the upper clamp length) is 2.5 cm, and the length of the portion of the test piece clamped by the lower clamp (hereinafter also referred to as the lower clamp The length is 3.5 cm, and the distance between the upper jig and the lower jig (hereinafter referred to as the clamping interval) is set to 10 cm. Extend the gripping interval to an extension of 80% at a stretch rate of 300 ± 20mm / min in the direction of the weft or warp, and then return to the original state at a speed of 300 ± 20mm / min. During 3 treatments, the stress ST ₍₃₀₎ (or ST ₍₁₅₎ ) at the time of elongation to 30% (or 15%) of elongation and the stress SR _{( 30)} (or SR ₍₁₅₎ ). The power value is obtained by dividing the sum of the stress ST ₍₃₀₎ (or ST ₍₁₅₎ ) and the stress SR ₍₃₀₎ (or SR ₍₁₅₎ ) by two. The average value of the three test pieces is defined as the power value P ₍₃₀₎ (or P ₍₁₅₎ ).

The elongation (constant load elongation) when the load of 14.7 N is applied in the warp direction and the weft direction of the double knitted fabric is preferably 100% or more. When the constant load elongation is more than 100%, the wearing feeling of clothes made of double-faced knitted fabric is easily improved. In addition, the elongation recovery rate of the double-faced knitted fabric obtained based on the constant load elongation is preferably 90% or more. When the elongation recovery rate of the double-faced knitted fabric is 90% or more, the feeling of wearing and shape retention are easily improved. The constant load elongation and elongation recovery rate of the double-faced knitted fabric can be measured by, for example, the following method.

(Constant load elongation) Three test pieces with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 16 cm were cut from the double-sided knitted fabric in the weft and warp directions respectively. A test piece with a length of 16 cm in the weft direction is used for the measurement of the constant load elongation in the weft direction, and a test piece with a length of 16 cm in the warp direction is used for the measurement of the constant load elongation in the warp direction. The constant load elongation was measured using a constant speed elongation type tensile tester (Autograph, manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, AG-500D). Install the test piece in the test piece holder of the tensile tester and make the clamping interval 10 cm, and then measure the elongation when the test piece is applied with a load of 14.7 N in the weft or warp direction at an elongation speed of 300 mm / minute . The environment during the measurement was a temperature of 20 ° C and a relative humidity of 65%.

(Elongation recovery rate) Three test pieces with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 16 cm were cut from the double-faced knitted fabric in the weft direction and the warp direction respectively. A test piece with a length of 16 cm in the weft direction is used for measuring the recovery rate of elongation in the weft direction, and a test piece with a length of 16 cm in the warp direction is used for measuring the recovery of elongation in the warp direction. The elongation recovery rate was measured using a constant speed elongation type tensile tester (Autograph, manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, AG-500D). A toothed jig was used for the test piece jig part of the testing machine. Mount the test piece to the testing machine, and make the upper grip length 2.5 cm and the lower grip length 3.5 cm. Measure the elongation under the conditions in Table 1 according to the fixed load elongation. Repeat the elongation recovery 3 times at a speed of 30 ± 2 cm / min, and draw the elongation recovery curve. Read the set elongation and residual elongation, and calculate the recovery rate from the following formula (1).

Recovery rate (%) = (L-L0) / L × 100 (1) (where L is the set elongation and L0 is the residual elongation)

[Table 1]

[Knitting of double-faced knitted fabric] The double-faced knitted fabric of the present embodiment can be woven appropriately by weft knitting such as plain knitting, rib knitting, double knitting, circular knitting, interlocking knitting, or the like. In particular, double-sided knitted fabrics are preferably woven on the basis of interlocking knitting. In this way, a double-sided knitted fabric with the same structure and smooth surface and moderate expansion and contraction can be obtained.

[Sulfonate Treatment of Double Knitted Fabric] When heat setting is performed on the double knitted fabric, it is preferable to perform sulfonate treatment from the viewpoint of suppressing yellowing or embrittlement of the non-elastic yarn. The sulfonate treatment is performed by immersing the double-faced knitted fabric in a treatment solution containing sulfonate. The treatment liquid containing sulfonate refers to an aqueous solution containing sulfonate, non-volatile acid, chelating agent and the like. Sodium benzenesulfonate can be used as the sulfonate. Non-volatile acid can use tartaric acid and so on. As the chelating agent, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or the like can be used. The composition and concentration of the treatment liquid can be appropriately adjusted according to the type of yarn contained in the double-face knitted fabric. For example, an aqueous solution containing 4% by mass of sodium benzenesulfonate, 1% by mass of tartaric acid, and 0.1% by mass of EDTA can be used as the treatment liquid.

The treatment time, treatment temperature, and the like of the sulfonate treatment are not particularly limited, and can be appropriately determined according to the type and the like of the yarn contained in the double-face knitted fabric.

[Heat setting of double-sided knitted fabric] Double-sided knitted fabric is preferably heat-set. By performing heat setting, the first polyurethane yarns or the second polyurethane yarns are in contact with each other, and are appropriately set in a deformed state. By this, a double-faced knitted fabric with no yarn run or curl can be obtained.

The temperature conditions for heat setting may be appropriately set according to the type of yarn contained in the double-face knitted fabric. For example, when both the first and second polyurethane yarns have a thermal deformation starting temperature of 150 to 190 ° C, heat setting is preferably performed under the conditions of 195 to 205 ° C. In addition, by performing sulfonate treatment before heat setting, even in the case of heat treatment at a high temperature of 195 to 205 ° C, the embrittlement and yellowing of the non-elastic yarn included in the composite yarn can be suppressed. Heat setting can be dry heat setting or wet heat setting.

[Others] The double-sided knitted fabric may be subjected to processing usually performed on the knitted fabric such as refining, dyeing, resin processing, fuzzing, waxing processing, etc. by a conventionally known method. Finally, final setting such as heat treatment is performed so that the completion density becomes the design value.

The present invention will be further described in detail below by examples, but the present invention is not limited by the following examples.

[Example 1] (1) Preparation of composite yarn A covered yarn was produced as a composite yarn. The core yarn of the covering yarn is 22dtex polyurethane yarn (the first polyurethane yarn, manufactured by Toray Opelontex Co., Ltd.), LYCRA (registered trademark) T-127C, and the heat deformation starting temperature is 178 ℃ ), The sheath yarn is 22dtex / 7f nylon filament (non-elastic yarn). Using a yarn covering machine, the core yarn was stretched at a draw ratio of 2.3, and at the same time, the sheath yarn was wrapped around the core yarn with a twist number of 300 T / m and Z twist to obtain a single covered yarn (composite yarn). The fineness of the composite yarn is 28.6 dtex.

(2) Weaving of a double-faced knitted fabric using the composite yarn and 22dtex / 7f nylon filament obtained as the first braid, 33dtex polyurethane yarn (second polyurethane yarn) , The initial temperature of thermal deformation 178 ℃) as the second series. Using the double circular knitting machine (diameter 303.07cm, pitch 40) made by Fukuhara Seiki Co., Ltd., the first and second knitting threads are simultaneously fed from the same thread feeder to both sides of the disc / cylinder The needles are interwoven with an additional yarn knitting, and the second polyurethane yarn is arranged inside the knitted fabric into a smooth knitted structure, and knitted into a double-faced knitted fabric. The 22dtex / 7f nylon filament is interwoven with the composite yarn obtained in (1) one by one alternately.

(3) Treatment of double-faced knitted fabric After the obtained double-faced knitted fabric is refined, it contains 4% by mass of sodium benzenesulfonate, 1% by mass of tartaric acid (non-volatile acid), and 0.1% by mass of EDTA (chelating agent). Immerse in aqueous solution and at room temperature for 5 seconds. Then, the double-faced knitted fabric was set with dry heat at 195 ° C for 1 minute.

Then, as the dye, Aminyl Yellow FD-3RL (Sumitomo Chemical Industry Co., Ltd., 0.3% owf (on weight fabric)), Aminyl Red FD-GL (Sumitomo Chemical Industry (Co., Ltd., 0.3% owf), Aminyl Blue FD-GL (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., 0.3% owf) was used to dye the double-faced knitted fabric at 100 ° C according to the usual formula at a flow dyeing machine.

Next, the double-sided knitted fabric was brought into contact with a wet pad containing a finished resin PARASILICON G-284 (manufactured by Ohara Paragium Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.6 mass% at 170 ° C. for 1 minute to perform final setting. The finished density of the obtained double-faced knitted fabric was 126 weft / inch, 55 warp / inch. In the whole double-faced knitted fabric, the non-elastic yarn and the first polyurethane yarn and the second polyamine The mass ratio of formate yarn is 3.9. The thickness of the double-faced knitted fabric was 560 μm, and the mass W per unit area was 173 g / m ² .

(4) Evaluation The following evaluation was performed on the obtained double-faced knitted fabric. The results are shown in Table 2. (power value) Three test pieces with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 16 cm were cut from the obtained double-faced knitted fabric in the weft direction and the warp direction respectively. A test piece with a length of 16 cm in the weft direction is used to obtain the power value in the weft direction, and a test piece with a length of 16 cm in the warp direction is used to obtain the power value in the warp direction. The upper clamping length is set to 2.5cm, the lower clamping length is set to 3.5cm, and the clamping interval is set to 10cm, using a constant speed elongation tensile tester (Autograph, manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, AG-500D). Determination.

In the direction corresponding to the weft or warp direction of the obtained double-faced knitted fabric, stretch the clamping interval to 80% elongation at a stretching speed of 300 ± 20 mm / min, and then at a speed of 300 ± 20 mm / min The speed is restored to the original state, this process is performed 3 times, and the stress ST ₍₃₀₎ (or ST ₍₁₅₎ ) and the stress at the time point of the elongation to 30% elongation (or 15% elongation) at the third treatment are restored to The sum of the stress SR ₍₃₀₎ (or SR ₍₁₅₎ ) at the time point of 30% elongation (or 15% elongation) is divided by 2 to obtain the power value. The average power value of the test piece 3, when the weft direction as power value P1 _{(30) (or} P1 _(15)), as power value P2 _{(30) (or} P2 ₍₁₅₎₎ when the warp direction. In addition, the power values P1 ₍₃₀₎ and P1 ₍₁₅₎ obtained by dividing the value of the mass W per unit area of the double-face knitted fabric and SR1 ₍₁₅₎ by the double-face knitted fabric The value of mass W per unit area.

(Constant load extension) Three test pieces with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 16 cm were cut from the obtained double-faced knitted fabric in the weft direction and the warp direction respectively. A test piece with a length of 16 cm in the weft direction is used for the measurement of the constant load elongation in the weft direction, and a test piece with a length of 16 cm in the warp direction is used for the measurement of the constant load elongation in the warp direction. Install a test piece on a constant-speed elongation type tensile tester (Autograph, manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, AG-500D) so that the clamping interval becomes 10 cm, and measure the test piece along the weft direction or warp at an elongation speed of 300 mm / minute. The elongation when 14.7N load is applied in the line direction. The environment during the measurement was a temperature of 20 ° C and a relative humidity of 65%.

(Elongation recovery rate) Three test pieces with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 16 cm were cut from the obtained double-faced knitted fabric in the weft direction and the warp direction respectively. A test piece with a length of 16 cm in the weft direction is used for measuring the recovery rate of elongation in the weft direction, and a test piece with a length of 16 cm in the warp direction is used for measuring the recovery of elongation in the warp direction. The elongation recovery rate was measured by a constant-speed elongation type tensile tester (Autograph, manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, AG-500D). A toothed jig was used for the test piece jig part of the testing machine. The test piece was attached to a testing machine, and the upper grip length was 2.5 cm and the lower grip length was 3.5 cm, and the elongation was measured under the conditions in Table 1. Then, the recovery of elongation was performed at a speed of 30 ± 2 cm / min, repeated 3 times, and an elongation recovery curve was drawn. Read the set elongation and residual elongation, and calculate the recovery rate from formula (1).

(Tightening feeling) From the value of the stress SR1 _{(15) in} the weft direction, the tightening feeling was evaluated according to the following criteria. Best: SR1 ₍₁₅₎ is 25-50cN Good: SR1 ₍₁₅₎ is more than 20cN and less than 25cN, or more than 50cN and less than 100cN Bad: SR1 _{(15) is} less than 20cN, or more than 100cN

(Dress of wearing) In the above-mentioned evaluation of tightening feeling, the result of evaluating the value of the stress SR2 _{(15) in the} warp direction according to the following criteria was used to evaluate the feeling of wearing. Specifically, among the above-mentioned evaluations regarding the stress SR1 ₍₁₅₎ and the following evaluations regarding the stress SR2 ₍₁₅₎ , the evaluation result of the feeling of wearing is evaluated by the person with a low evaluation. Best: SR2 ₍₁₅₎ is 25-50cN Good: SR2 ₍₁₅₎ is 10 or more and less than 25cN, or more than 50cN and less than 100cN Bad: SR2 _{(15) is} less than 10cN, or more than 100cN

(Warp pattern phenomenon) The double-sided knitted fabric is elongated by 30% in the vertical and horizontal directions, and the warp pattern phenomenon is judged visually. Best: There is little warp pattern phenomenon, and almost no glare is observed. Good: A little glare was observed due to the meridional marking phenomenon. Bad: Severe glare was observed due to the meridional marking phenomenon.

[Example 2] In the same manner as Example 1, except that 22 dtex polyurethane yarn (second polyurethane yarn, heat deformation starting temperature 178 ° C.) was used for the second braided yarn A double-faced knitted fabric is produced such that the polyurethane yarn is arranged inside the knitted fabric. The finished density of the double-faced knitted fabric was 134 wefts / inch, 57 warp / inches, the thickness was 440 μm, and the mass W per unit area was 135 g / m ² . In the entire double knitted fabric, the mass ratio of the non-elastic yarn to the first polyurethane yarn and the second polyurethane yarn was 2.2. Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the obtained double-faced knitted fabric.

[Example 3] The composite yarn obtained in Example 1 was defined as the first braided yarn and 22 dtex polyurethane yarn (second polyurethane yarn, heat deformation starting temperature of 178 ° C) as Except for the second braided yarn, in the same manner as in Example 1, a double-sided knitted fabric was produced so that the second polyurethane yarn was arranged inside the knitted fabric. The finished density of the double-faced knitted fabric was 138 wefts / inch, 57 warp / inches, the thickness was 410 μm, and the mass W per unit area was 179 g / m ² . In the entire double knitted fabric, the mass ratio of the non-elastic yarn to the first polyurethane yarn and the second polyurethane yarn was 1.1. Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the obtained double-faced knitted fabric.

[Comparative Example 1] As the braided yarn, the first braided yarn containing the composite yarn obtained in Example 1 and 22dtex / 7f nylon filament and 56dtex / 48f nylon filament was used. Using the double circular knitting machine (diameter 271.17cm, pitch 40) made by Fukuhara Seiki Co., Ltd., the first knitting thread was fed from the same yarn feeder as the 56dtex / 48f nylon filament to the disc / The needles on both sides of the cylinder are interwoven by adding yarns, and the nylon filaments of 56dtex / 48f are arranged inside the knitted fabric into a smooth knitted structure to produce a double-sided knitted fabric. The 22dtex / 7f nylon filament is interwoven with the composite yarn obtained in Example 1 one by one alternately. The finished density of the double-face knitted fabric was 102 wefts / inch, 56 warp / inches, the thickness was 570 μm, and the mass W per unit area was 250 g / m ² . Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the obtained double-faced knitted fabric.

[Comparative Example 2] 44dtex polyurethane yarn and 33dtex / 34f nylon filament were used as the braided yarn. Using a double circular knitting machine (diameter 303.07cm, pitch 40) made by Fukuhara Seiki Co., Ltd., 44dtex polyurethane yarn and 33dtex / 34f nylon filament are fed simultaneously from the same yarn feeder The needles on the both sides of the disc / cylinder are interwoven by adding yarn, and the knitted fabric is woven so that the polyurethane yarn is arranged inside the knitted fabric to produce a double-sided knitted fabric. The finished density of the double-faced knitted fabric was 112 wefts / inch, 77 warp / inches, the thickness was 595 μm, and the mass W per unit area was 254 g / m ² . The obtained double-faced knitted fabric was evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 2.

[Comparative Example 3] Except for using 22dtex / 20f nylon filaments instead of 33dtex / 34f nylon filaments, in the same manner as in Comparative Example 2, the yarn was fed to the disc / cylinder simultaneously from the same yarn feeder The needles on both sides are interwoven with an additional yarn knitting, and the double-sided knitted fabric is produced by knitting a smooth knitting structure such that the polyurethane yarn is arranged inside the knitted fabric. The finished density of the double-faced knitted fabric was 120 wefts / inch, 63 warp / inch, thickness was 510 μm, and the mass W per unit area was 183 g / m ² . Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the obtained double-faced knitted fabric.

[Table 2] [Industry availability]

The double-faced knitted fabric of the present invention is a double-faced knitted fabric that is less prone to warp marking and has the same or more stretching force as the conventional double-sided knitted fabric, and can reduce the mass or thickness per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric . Therefore, it is suitable to use cloth as clothing excellent in wearability and durability.

Claims (10)

A double-faced knitted fabric made by weaving a first braided yarn and a second braided yarn, the first braided yarn including a composite yarn, the composite yarn including a first polyurethane yarn and the first poly For non-elastic yarns other than urethane yarns, the second braided yarn includes a second polyurethane yarn. The double-sided knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fineness of the aforementioned composite yarn is 19 to 112 dtex. The double-faced knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fineness of the first polyurethane yarn is 11 to 56 dtex. The double-faced knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the fineness of the aforementioned non-elastic yarn is 8 to 56 dtex. The double-faced knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the thermal deformation starting temperature of the first polyurethane yarn and the second polyurethane yarn is 150 to 190 ° C. For the double-faced knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, the power value P1 ₍₃₀₎ is 70 to 180 cN, and the power value P1 ₍₃₀₎ is obtained according to the following: After the direction is stretched to an extension of 80% at a stretching speed of 300 ± 20mm / min, return to the original state at a speed of 300 ± 20mm / min, perform this treatment 3 times, and extend the third treatment to the extension 30 The sum of the stress ST1 ₍₃₀₎ at the% time point and the stress SR1 ₍₃₀₎ at the time point at which the contraction was restored to 30% at the time of the third treatment is divided by two. For the double-sided knitted fabric of claim 6, the value of the power value P1 ₍₃₀₎ divided by the mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric is 0.55 to 1.1 cN ･ m ² / g. If the double-faced knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7, stretches the double-faced knitted fabric to the weft direction at a stretching speed of 300 ± 20 mm / min to 80% of the elongation, at 300 ± 20 mm / min The speed is restored to the original state, and this treatment is performed three times. The stress SR1 ₍₁₅₎ at the time point of contraction and recovery to 15% of the elongation during the third treatment is 20 to 100 cN. For the double-sided knitted fabric of claim 8, the value of the stress SR1 ₍₁₅₎ divided by the mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric is 0.07 to 1 cN ･ m ² / g. The double-faced knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the mass per unit area of the double-faced knitted fabric is 100 to 260 g / m ² .