TW201902453A - 油中水型乳化化妝料 - Google Patents
油中水型乳化化妝料 Download PDFInfo
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- TW201902453A TW201902453A TW107119787A TW107119787A TW201902453A TW 201902453 A TW201902453 A TW 201902453A TW 107119787 A TW107119787 A TW 107119787A TW 107119787 A TW107119787 A TW 107119787A TW 201902453 A TW201902453 A TW 201902453A
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- TW
- Taiwan
- Prior art keywords
- oil
- water
- powder
- polysiloxane
- emulsified cosmetic
- Prior art date
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 59
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title description 3
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 57
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 49
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 28
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- 230000002209 hydrophobic effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 20
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- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 30
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- SOAINXKLHJAHCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N [Li+].C(CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)[N+](C)(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC Chemical compound [Li+].C(CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)[N+](C)(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC SOAINXKLHJAHCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
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Abstract
本發明提供一種油中水型乳化化妝料，其即便實質上不調配紫外線散射劑，亦藉由與汗或泳池水、海水、雨等水分接觸而發揮較剛塗抹後為高之紫外線防禦效果，並且塗抹後之外觀、使用性及洗淨性也屬優異。本發明之油中水型乳化化妝料之特徵在於包含：(A)6～40質量%之紫外線吸收劑、(B)油相增黏劑、及(C)選自以下(i)～(iii)之一種以上之疏水性粉末：(i)經疏水化處理之滑石、(ii)平均粒徑為30 μm以上之聚矽氧粉末、(iii)交聯密度為40%以上之交聯型聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉末，且不含紫外線散射劑或即便含有亦為6質量%以下。
Description
本發明係關於一種油中水型乳化化妝料。更詳細而言係關於一種即便實質上不調配紫外線散射劑，亦藉由與汗或泳池水、海水、雨等水分接觸而發揮較剛塗抹後為高之紫外線防禦效果，並且塗抹後之外觀、使用性及洗淨性亦優異之油中水型乳化化妝料。
保護皮膚或毛髮免於紫外線侵害為皮膚護理、身體護理、毛髮護理中之重要課題之一，近來，認為重要的是紫外線之防禦不僅限於夏天之泳池或海中之水浴或者冬天之滑雪等戶外活動時嚴酷之紫外線條件下，而且日常生活中亦要防禦紫外線。因此，業界期待通常之化妝用化妝料或毛髮護理化妝料等亦具有紫外線防禦效果。
然而，若塗抹於皮膚之防曬化妝料與水或汗等水分接觸，則紫外線吸收劑或紫外線散射劑自塗抹之化妝料流出，不可避免地導致紫外線防禦效果降低。因此，為了防止紫外線防禦效果降低，業界不斷嘗試有各種改善防曬化妝料之耐水性或覆膜強度等舉措。
於此種嘗試之中，近年來業界提出有如下防曬化妝料，其具有藉由與水分之接觸而不使紫外線防禦效果降低反而提高效果之特異性效果(以下有時稱為「紫外線防禦能力提高效果」)。 例如專利文獻1中記載有藉由將二甲基二硬脂基銨鋰膨潤石等有機改性黏土礦物與如糊精脂肪酸酯、蔗糖脂肪酸酯、及脂肪酸或其鹽之油相增黏劑以相對於聚矽氧油除外之不揮發性液狀油分成為特定之質量比之方式進行調配，利用與水分接觸而相較於剛塗抹後，紫外線防禦效果提高。
然而，於發揮紫外線防禦能力提高效果之防曬化妝料中，尤其對於油中水型乳化形態者而言，為了實現該效果，較佳為於化妝料中將紫外線散射劑通常調配10～30質量%、至少6質量%左右。但是，若大量調配紫外線散射劑，則以氧化鈦或氧化鋅為代表之紫外線散射劑除紫外線以外亦使可見光發生散射，因此，於將化妝料塗抹於皮膚時存在產生所謂「浮白」而有損外觀之情形。進而，氧化鋅等有因其收斂作用而對皮膚賦予乾燥感，有損使用感之傾向。又，於使用旨在改善分散穩定性等而對表面實施了疏水化處理之紫外線散射劑之情形時，亦存在紫外線散射劑用肥皂等不易洗掉，導致洗淨性較差等問題。 [先前技術文獻] [專利文獻]
[專利文獻1]國際公開第2016/068298號公報
[發明所欲解決之問題]
本發明之目的在於提供一種即便實質上不調配紫外線散射劑亦可發揮紫外線防禦能力提高效果之油中水型乳化化妝料。 [解決問題之技術手段]
本發明者等為了解決上述課題反覆進行努力研究，結果發現，藉由將紫外線吸收劑與油相增黏劑及特定之疏水性粉末組合使用，而於具有紫外線防禦能力提高效果之油中水型乳化化妝料中，能夠減少紫外線散射劑之調配量或不調配紫外線散射劑，從而完成了本發明。
即，本發明提供一種油中水型乳化化妝料，其包含： (A)6～40質量%之紫外線吸收劑、 (B)油相增黏劑、及 (C)選自以下(i)～(iii)之一種以上之疏水性粉末： (i)經疏水化處理之滑石、 (ii)平均粒徑為30 μm以上之聚矽氧粉末、 (iii)交聯密度為40%以上之交聯型聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉末，且 不含紫外線散射劑或即便含有亦為6質量%以下。 [發明之效果]
本發明藉由設為上述構成，與汗或泳池水、海水、雨等水分接觸後之紫外線防禦效果相較於將化妝料剛塗抹於皮膚後有顯著之提高。進而，本發明之油中水型乳化化妝料即便實質上不調配紫外線散射劑，亦發揮優異之紫外線防禦能力提高效果，因此，不易浮白，可抑制粉末感或乾燥感，亦可利用通常之洗淨料或肥皂簡便地洗掉。 即，本發明可提供一種除紫外線防禦能力提高效果優異以外，塗抹後之外觀、使用性及洗淨性亦優異之化妝料。
如上所述，本發明之油中水型乳化化妝料之特徵在於包含：(A)紫外線吸收劑、(B)油相增黏劑、及(C)疏水性粉末。以下，對構成本發明之化妝料之各成分進行詳細說明。
＜(A)紫外線吸收劑＞ 本發明之油中水型乳化化妝料中所調配之(A)紫外線吸收劑(以下有時簡稱為「(A)成分」)可使用通常調配於防曬化妝料中者。 本發明中使用之紫外線吸收劑並無特別限定，作為具體例，可列舉：甲氧基桂皮酸乙基己酯、奧克立林、二甲聚矽氧烷二乙基亞苄基丙二酸酯、聚矽氧烷-15、第三丁基甲氧基二苯甲醯基甲烷、乙基己基三酮、二乙胺基羥基苯甲醯基苯甲酸己酯、雙乙基己氧基苯酚甲氧基苯基三、氧苯酮-3、亞甲基雙苯并三唑基四甲基丁基苯酚、苯基苯并咪唑磺酸、胡莫柳酯、水楊酸乙基己酯等有機紫外線吸收劑。
(A)成分之調配量相對於油中水型乳化化妝料總量為6～40質量%，更佳為8～35質量%，進而較佳為10～30質量%。若(A)成分之調配量未達6質量%，則不易獲得充分之紫外線防禦效果，即便調配超過40質量%，亦無法期待紫外線防禦效果與調配量增加相應地提高，且穩定性變差等，就該等方面而言欠佳。(A)成分可單獨使用1種，亦可併用2種以上。
＜(B)油相增黏劑＞ 本發明之油中水型乳化化妝料中所調配之(B)油相增黏劑(以下有時簡稱為「(B)成分」)係可調整油中水型乳化化妝料之油相黏度者。作為(B)成分，較佳為糊精脂肪酸酯、蔗糖脂肪酸酯、脂肪酸或其鹽、植物性氫化油或者固態或半固態之植物油、有機改性黏土礦物、甘油脂肪酸酯、及胺基酸系凝膠化劑。
糊精脂肪酸酯係糊精或還原糊精與高級脂肪酸之酯，只要為化妝料所通常使用者則可無特別限制地使用。糊精或還原糊精較佳為使用平均糖聚合度為3～100者。又，作為糊精脂肪酸酯之構成脂肪酸，較佳為使用碳數8～22之飽和脂肪酸。具體而言，可列舉：糊精棕櫚酸酯、糊精油酸酯、糊精硬脂酸酯、糊精肉豆蔻酸酯、糊精(棕櫚酸/2-乙基己酸)酯等。
蔗糖脂肪酸酯較佳為使用其脂肪酸為直鏈狀或支鏈狀之飽和或不飽和之碳數12至22者。具體而言，可列舉：蔗糖辛酸酯、蔗糖癸酸酯、蔗糖月桂酸酯、蔗糖肉豆蔻酸酯、蔗糖棕櫚酸酯、蔗糖硬脂酸酯、蔗糖油酸酯、蔗糖芥酸酯、蔗糖乙酸酯硬脂酸酯等。
脂肪酸可使用常溫下為固態者，例如可列舉：肉豆蔻酸、棕櫚酸、硬脂酸、山萮酸等。又，作為脂肪酸之鹽，可列舉該等之鈣鹽、鎂鹽、鋁鹽等。
植物性氫化油可列舉：氫化棕櫚仁油、氫化蓖麻油、氫化花生油、氫化菜籽油、氫化棕櫚油、氫化山茶油、氫化大豆油、氫化橄欖油、氫化澳洲胡桃油、氫化葵花籽油、氫化小麥胚芽油、氫化米胚芽油、氫化米糠油、氫化棉籽油、氫化萼梨油等。 又，亦可使用與植物性氫化油同樣地於室溫下為固態或半固態之植物油。此處，固態油意指25℃下為固體之油，半固態油意指25℃下一半量為固體之油。更具體而言，較佳為熔點為44℃～90℃之範圍且25℃下藉由B型黏度計測得之黏度為5000 mPa・s以上者、進而為10000 mPa・s以上者。作為室溫下為固態或半固態之植物油，可例示：可可脂、椰子油、棕櫚油、棕櫚仁油、木蠟、乳油木果油等。
有機改性黏土礦物係具有三層結構之膠體性含水矽酸鋁之一種，可使用將下述通式(1)所表示之黏土礦物利用四級銨鹽型陽離子界面活性劑改性而成者。 (X,Y)2-3
(Si,Al)4
O10
(OH)2
Z1/3
・nH2
O (1) (其中，X＝Al、Fe(III)、Mn(III)、Cr(III)，Y＝Mg、Fe(II)、Ni、Zn、Li，Z＝K、Na、Ca)
具體而言，將蒙脫石、皂石、鋰膨潤石等天然或合成(於該情形時式中之(OH)基被取代為氟)之蒙脫石群(市售者有Veegum、Kunipia、Laponite等)及已知為鈉矽雲母或鈉/鋰帶雲母之名稱之合成雲母(市售者有TOPY INDUSTRIES股份有限公司之Dymonite等)等黏土礦物利用四級銨鹽型陽離子界面活性劑進行處理而獲得。
此處使用之四級銨鹽型陽離子界面活性劑係下述通式(2)所表示者。 [化1](式中，R1
表示碳數10～22之烷基或苄基，R2
表示甲基或碳數10～22之烷基，R3
及R4
表示碳數1～3之烷基或羥基烷基，X表示鹵素原子或甲基硫酸鹽殘基)
作為該四級銨鹽型陽離子界面活性劑，例如可列舉：十二烷基三甲基氯化銨、肉豆蔻基三甲基氯化銨、鯨蠟基三甲基氯化銨、硬脂基三甲基氯化銨、花生基三甲基氯化銨、山萮基三甲基氯化銨、肉豆蔻基二甲基乙基氯化銨、鯨蠟基二甲基乙基氯化銨、硬脂基二甲基乙基氯化銨、花生基二甲基乙基氯化銨、山萮基二甲基乙基氯化銨、肉豆蔻基二乙基甲基氯化銨、鯨蠟基二乙基甲基氯化銨、硬脂基二乙基甲基氯化銨、花生基二乙基甲基氯化銨、山萮基二乙基甲基氯化銨、苄基二甲基肉豆蔻基氯化銨、苄基二甲基鯨蠟基氯化銨、苄基二甲基硬脂基氯化銨、苄基二甲基山萮基氯化銨、苄基甲基乙基鯨蠟基氯化銨、苄基甲基乙基硬脂基氯化銨、二山萮基二羥基乙基氯化銨、及該等之溴化物等、進而二棕櫚基丙基乙基銨甲基硫酸鹽等。於本發明之實施時，任意地選擇該等中之一種或兩種以上。
作為有機改性黏土礦物之具代表性者，可列舉：二甲基二硬脂基銨鋰膨潤石(二硬脂基二銨鋰膨潤石)、二甲基烷基銨鋰膨潤石、苄基二甲基硬脂基銨鋰膨潤石、經氯化二硬脂基二甲基銨處理之矽酸鋁鎂等。其中，尤佳為二甲基二硬脂基銨鋰膨潤石。作為市售者，較佳為Bentone 27(經苄基二甲基硬脂基氯化銨處理之鋰膨潤石：Elementis Japan公司製造)及Bentone38(經二硬脂基二甲基氯化銨處理之鋰膨潤石：Elementis Japan公司製造)。
甘油脂肪酸酯係藉由使甘油、碳數18～28之二元酸及碳數8～28之脂肪酸(其中，二元酸除外)進行反應而獲得之酯化反應生成物，只要為化妝料中通常使用者，則可無特別限制地使用。具體而言，可列舉(山萮酸/異硬脂酸/二十烷二酸)甘油酯、(山萮酸/二十烷二酸)甘油酯、(山萮酸/二十烷二酸)聚甘油-10酯等。
胺基酸系凝膠化劑可列舉：二丁基月桂醯基麩胺醯胺、二丁基乙基己醯基麩胺醯胺、聚醯胺-8、聚醯胺-3、N-月桂醯基-L-麩胺酸二丁基醯胺等。
(B)成分可單獨使用1種，亦可併用2種以上。(B)成分之調配量相對於油中水型乳化化妝料總量，較佳為0.1～15質量%，進而較佳為0.2～10質量%，更佳為0.4～8質量%。若(B)成分之調配量未達0.1質量%，則有因與水分之接觸而有損紫外線防禦效果之傾向，若調配超過15質量%，則成為高黏度，於皮膚上之延展變得厚重等就使用性之方面而言欠佳。
＜(C)疏水性粉末＞ 本發明之油中水型乳化化妝料中所調配之疏水性粉末(以下有時簡稱為「(C)成分」)係與水之相互作用較小且與水之親和性較低之粉末粒子，於通常化妝料中，大多情況下係為了改善使用性而調配。疏水性粉末除了原本疏水性之素材之粉末粒子以外，還包含以親水性或疏水性之粉末粒子作為基礎素材並對其實施疏水化處理而得之粉末。 該等之中，本發明之油中水型乳化化妝料中所調配之(C)疏水性粉末較佳為選自以下之類型(i)～(iii)： (i)經疏水化處理之滑石、 (ii)平均粒徑為30 μm以上之聚矽氧粉末、 (iii)交聯密度為40%以上之交聯型聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉末。
(i)經疏水化處理之滑石 經疏水化處理之滑石係以作為矽酸鹽系黏土礦物的滑石為基礎素材，對其表面進行疏水化處理而得之粉末。如下述實施例所示般，經疏水化處理之滑石由於不論疏水化處理之種類如何均可發揮紫外線防禦能力提高效果，故而於(C)成分中為尤佳者。 疏水化處理並無特別限制，例如可列舉：聚矽氧處理(利用甲基氫聚矽氧烷、二甲基聚矽氧烷、甲基苯基聚矽氧烷等聚矽氧油；甲基三甲氧基矽烷、乙基三甲氧基矽烷、己基三甲氧基矽烷、辛基三甲氧基矽烷等烷基矽烷；三氟甲基乙基三甲氧基矽烷、十七氟癸基三甲氧基矽烷等氟烷基矽烷等之處理)、脂肪酸處理(利用棕櫚酸、異硬脂酸、硬脂酸、月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、山萮酸、油酸、松脂酸、12-羥基硬脂酸等之處理)、脂肪酸皂處理(利用硬脂酸鋁、硬脂酸鈣、12-羥基硬脂酸等之處理)、脂肪酸酯處理(利用糊精脂肪酸酯、膽固醇脂肪酸酯、蔗糖脂肪酸酯、澱粉脂肪酸酯等之處理)等。該等疏水化處理可根據常規方法進行。疏水化處理中，就能夠對粉末粒子賦予較高之穩定性等方面而言，適宜為聚矽氧處理。 經疏水化處理之滑石可利用市售者，例如可列舉「經硬脂酸鈣處理之滑石」(藤本化學製品股份有限公司製造)。
(ii)平均粒徑為30 μm以上之聚矽氧粉末 聚矽氧粉末只要平均粒徑為30 μm以上，則可使用通常用作化妝料原料者。作為聚矽氧粉末，例如已知有甲基聚矽氧烷網狀聚合物、交聯型甲基聚矽氧烷、交聯型聚矽氧網狀型聚矽氧嵌段共聚物及矽烷化二氧化矽等，該等之中，尤佳為交聯型聚矽氧網狀型聚矽氧嵌段共聚物。
聚矽氧粉末之平均粒徑為30 μm以上，更佳為32 μm以上，進而較佳為35 μm以上。若平均粒徑未達30 μm，則有因與水分之接觸而有損紫外線防禦效果之傾向。另一方面，平均粒徑之上限並無特別限制，就使用性或穩定性之觀點而言，較佳為70 μm以下。作為聚矽氧粉末之粒度分佈，較佳為5～100 μm者。聚矽氧粉末之平均粒徑可藉由雷射繞射散射法進行測定。
作為能夠使用之聚矽氧粉末之市售者，例如可列舉：「KSP-102」(信越化學工業股份有限公司製造，(乙烯基二甲聚矽氧烷/甲聚矽氧烷倍半矽氧烷)交聯聚合物，平均粒徑：30 μm)。
(iii)交聯密度為40%以上之交聯型聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉末 交聯型聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉末(PMMA粉末)可使用交聯密度為40%以上者。交聯型聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉末之交聯密度為40%以上，更佳為42%以上，進而較佳為45%以上。於使用交聯密度未達40%之PMMA粉末之情形時，有因與水分之接觸而有損紫外線防禦效果之傾向。另一方面，交聯密度之上限並無特別限制，就使用性之觀點而言，較佳為60%以下。交聯密度可藉由溶劑膨潤法等各種公知之方法求出。
選自上述(i)～(iii)之(C)成分可單獨使用1種，亦可併用2種以上。(C)成分之調配量相對於油中水型乳化化妝料總量，較佳為3～30質量%，進而較佳為5～25質量%，更佳為5～20質量%。若(B)成分之調配量未達3質量%，則有因與水分之接觸而有損紫外線防禦效果之傾向，若調配超過30質量%，則存在產生乾澀感、卡粉、黏膩感等使用性變差之情形或難以製劑化之情形。
＜紫外線散射劑＞ 本發明之油中水型乳化化妝料即便不調配紫外線散射劑，亦可藉由含有上述(A)～(C)成分而實現紫外線防禦能力提高效果。 然而，為了進一步提高對紫外線之防禦效果等，亦可調配少量之紫外線散射劑。於本發明之油中水型乳化化妝料中調配紫外線散射劑之情形時，為了抑制因紫外線散射劑引起之浮白或使用性之降低，較佳為相對於油中水型乳化化妝料總量設為6%質量以下，較佳為設為5質量%以下，進而較佳為設為4質量%以下，尤佳為設為3質量%以下。
能夠調配於本發明之油中水型乳化化妝料中之紫外線散射劑並無特別限定，可使用化妝料中通常採用之紫外線散射劑。作為紫外線散射劑之例，可列舉：氧化鋅、氧化鈦、氧化鐵、氧化鈰、氧化鎢等微粒子狀之金屬氧化物、或將該等之表面進行各種疏水化表面處理而得者。作為疏水化表面處理劑，可使用化妝料領域中通用者，例如二甲聚矽氧烷、烷基改性聚矽氧等聚矽氧、辛基三乙氧基矽烷等烷氧基矽烷、糊精棕櫚酸酯等糊精脂肪酸酯、硬脂酸等脂肪酸。
於本發明之油中水型乳化化妝料中，除上述必需成分以外，可視需要適當調配例如油分、水、醇類、界面活性劑、油性活性劑、水性活性劑、水相增黏劑、保濕劑、抗氧化劑等化妝料中通常使用之成分。
其中，為了實現油中水型之乳化形態，本發明中可使用之界面活性劑較佳為HLB未達8之界面活性劑，尤佳為聚矽氧系界面活性劑。 作為HLB未達8之聚矽氧系界面活性劑，例如可列舉：聚氧伸烷基改性聚矽氧、聚氧伸烷基·烷基共改性聚矽氧、聚甘油改性聚矽氧及/或聚甘油·烷基共改性聚矽氧。具體例包括KF-6017(PEG-10二甲聚矽氧烷，信越化學工業股份有限公司製造)、KF-6028(PEG-9聚二甲基矽烷氧基乙基二甲聚矽氧烷，信越化學工業股份有限公司製造)、ABIL EM90(鯨蠟基PEG/PPG-10/1二甲聚矽氧烷，Evonik Goldschmidt公司製造)、KF-6038(月桂基PEG-9聚二甲基矽烷氧基乙基二甲聚矽氧烷，信越化學工業股份有限公司製造)、雙丁基二甲聚矽氧烷聚甘油-3等。 聚矽氧系界面活性劑之調配量相對於油中水型乳化化妝料總量，較佳為0.1～8質量%，進而較佳為0.2～7質量%，更佳為0.4～5質量%。
本發明之油中水型乳化化妝料不僅可以例如防曬霜、防曬乳液、防曬液之形式提供，而且亦可以賦予有防曬效果之粉餅、隔離霜(粉底)、彩妝化妝料、毛髮化妝料等之形式使用，可藉由常規方法進行製造。 [實施例]
以下列舉具體例更詳細地說明發明，但本發明並不限定於以下之實施例。又，以下之實施例等中之調配量只要無特別規定，則表示質量%。
(實施例1～10及比較例1～3) 具有以下表1及表2中揭示之組成之油中水型乳化化妝料係藉由如下方式製備：將油性成分加溫進行熔解，使粉末分散，於其中添加另外混合之水相，並利用攪拌處理進行乳化。
紫外線防禦能力提高效果之測定方法 將各例之化妝料(試樣)以2 mg/cm2
之量滴至測定板(S板)(5×5 cm之V型槽PMMA板，SPFMASTER-PA01)，用手指塗抹60秒，並乾燥15分鐘後形成塗膜，利用日立製作所股份有限公司製造之U-3500型自動記錄分光光度計測定形成之塗膜之吸光度。將未塗抹設為對照，由以下之式算出吸光度(Abs)，並累計280 nm～400 nm下之測定值。 Abs＝-log(T/To) T：試樣之透過率，To：未塗抹之透過率 將測定過之板充分浸入至硬度50～500之水中，直接在水中攪拌30分鐘(利用三一馬達，300 rpm)。其後，乾燥15～30分鐘左右直至表面之水滴消失，再次測定吸光度，根據水浴前後之Abs累計值算出Abs變化率(以下之式)作為紫外線防禦能力提高效果。 紫外線防禦能力提高效果： Abs變化率(%)＝(水浴後之Abs累計值)/(水浴前之Abs累計值)×100
[表1]
[表2]
如上述表1及表2所示，確認到即便完全不含紫外線散射劑，藉由除油相增黏劑以外還調配作為疏水性粉末之經疏水化處理之滑石(實施例1、實施例3～10)或平均粒徑為30 μm以上之聚矽氧粉末(實施例2)，Abs變化率亦超過100%，即，與水浴前相比，水浴後之紫外線防禦效果亦提高。尤其確認到經疏水化處理之滑石不論疏水化處理之種類如何，均達成紫外線防禦能力提高效果(實施例3～10)。 另一方面，於使用平均粒徑未達30 μm之聚矽氧粉末或矽酸酐(二氧化矽粉末)之情形時，Abs變化率低於100%，未見紫外線防禦能力提高效果(比較例1～3)。
(實施例11～19及比較例4～7) 製備具有下述表3中揭示之組成之油中水型乳化化妝料，與上述同樣地求出水浴前後之Abs變化率。
[表3A]
[表3B]
如表3所示，確認到只要調配有作為疏水性粉末之經疏水化處理之滑石(實施例11～12、14～19)或交聯密度為40%以上之交聯型聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉末(實施例13)，則即便與其他一般之粉末成分併用，亦可達成紫外線防禦能力提高效果(實施例11～19)。 另一方面，於不含本發明中能夠使用之特定之疏水性粉末之情形時，即便調配同等量之其他一般之粉末成分，亦無法獲得紫外線防禦能力提高效果(比較例4～7)。
(實施例20、21及比較例8) 製備具有下述表4中揭示之組成之油中水型乳化化妝料，與上述同樣地求出水浴前後之Abs變化率。
[表4]
如表4所示，確認到即便改變油相增黏劑之組合或調配量，亦可獲得紫外線防禦能力提高效果(實施例20、21)。 另一方面，於不含本發明中能夠使用之特定之疏水性粉末之情形時，於水浴攪拌後無法獲得紫外線防禦能力提高效果(比較例8)。
(實施例22～27及比較例9、10) 製備具有下述表5A及表5B中揭示之組成之油中水型乳化化妝料，與上述同樣地求出水浴前後之Abs變化率。
[表5A]
[表5B]
如表5A及表5B所示，即便油相增黏劑僅為1種，亦可獲得較高之紫外線防禦能力提高效果(實施例22～27)。另一方面，於完全不含油相增黏劑之情形時，水浴攪拌後之紫外線防禦效果顯著降低，無法獲得紫外線防禦能力提高效果(比較例9、10)。 藉此，確認到藉由將至少1種油相增黏劑與疏水性粉末組合而調配，可達成充分之紫外線防禦能力提高效果。
以下，列舉本發明之油中水型乳化化妝料之配方例。當然，本發明不受該等配方例之任何限定，而由申請專利範圍加以特定。再者，調配量全部係以相對於油中水型乳化化妝料總量之質量%表示。
配方例1.基底化妝料 (成分名) 調配量(%) 奧克立林 3 水楊酸辛酯 3 2,4-雙-[{4-(2-乙基己氧基)-2-羥基]-苯基]-6-(4-甲氧基苯基)-1,3,5-三 1 二乙胺基羥基苯甲醯基苯甲酸己酯 1 氧化鋅 3 氧化鈦 2 糊精棕櫚酸酯 4 凡士林 2 三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸 2 聚氧丁烯(9)聚氧丙烯(1)二醇 2 異硬脂酸 1 癸二酸二異丙酯 8 礦物油 3 三(2-乙基己酸)甘油酯 2 甲基聚矽氧烷 3 十甲基環五矽氧烷 20 聚氧乙烯-甲基聚矽氧烷共聚物 2 純化水 剩餘量 食鹽 適量 乙二胺四乙酸三鈉 適量 香料 適量 甘油 1 丁二醇 3 乙醇 6 經氫二甲聚矽氧烷處理之珠光劑(雲母/氧化鈦) 2 經甲基氫聚矽氧烷處理之珠光劑(雲母/氧化鈦/氧化錫) 1 經硬脂酸鈣處理之滑石(平均粒徑：7 μm) 5 矽酸酐(平均粒徑：5 μm) 1 交聯型聚矽氧·網狀型聚矽氧嵌段共聚物(平均粒徑：5 μm) 3 氧化鐵黑 1 氧化鐵黃 0.3 鐵丹 0.3
配方例2.BB霜 (成分名) 調配量(%) 奧克立林 5 胡莫柳酯 10 4-第三丁基-4'-甲氧基二苯甲醯基甲烷 1 二乙胺基羥基苯甲醯基苯甲酸己酯 2 氧化鈦 5 蔗糖乙酸酯硬脂酸酯 3 微晶蠟 1 三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸 3 聚氧丁烯(9)聚氧丙烯(1)二醇 2 異硬脂酸 1 四(2-乙基己酸)季戊四醇酯 8 α-烯烴低聚物 3 三(2-乙基己酸)甘油酯 2 甲基聚矽氧烷 3 二甲基二硬脂基銨鋰膨潤石 2 異十二烷 10 十甲基環五矽氧烷 3 聚氧乙烯-甲基聚矽氧烷共聚物 3 純化水 剩餘量 食鹽 適量 乙二胺四乙酸三鈉 適量 香料 適量 山梨糖醇 1 二丙二醇 5 乙醇 10 經甲基聚矽氧烷處理之珠光劑(雲母鈦) 2 經硬脂酸鈣處理之滑石(平均粒徑：7 μm) 10 交聯型聚矽氧·網狀型聚矽氧嵌段共聚物(平均粒徑：5 μm) 8 氧化鐵黑 1 氧化鐵黃 0.7 鐵丹 0.3
配方例3.美白乳液 (成分名) 調配量(%) 奧克立林 5 胡莫柳酯 10 對甲氧基桂皮酸2-乙基己酯 5 二乙胺基羥基苯甲醯基苯甲酸己酯 3 氧化鈦 1 氧化鋅 3 蔗糖乙酸酯硬脂酸酯 3 糊精棕櫚酸酯 2 三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸 3 聚氧丁烯(9)聚氧丙烯(1)二醇 3 四(2-乙基己酸)季戊四醇酯 5 癸二酸二異丙酯 12 三(2-乙基己酸)甘油酯 5 甲基聚矽氧烷 3 二甲基二硬脂基銨鋰膨潤石 1 異十二烷 10 十甲基環五矽氧烷 5 雙丁基二甲聚矽氧烷聚甘油-3 1 純化水 剩餘量 傳明酸 2 4-甲氧基水楊酸鉀鹽 1 食鹽 適量 乙二胺四乙酸三鈉 適量 香料 適量 甘油 3 二丙二醇 3 乙醇 8 經硬脂酸鈣處理之滑石(平均粒徑：7 μm) 5
配方例4.W/O型BB霜 (成分名) 調配量(質量%) 純化水 剩餘量 乙醇 5 乙二胺四乙酸三鈉 0.1 食鹽 0.1 焦亞硫酸鈉 0.01 苯氧基乙醇 1 甘油 5 赤藻糖醇 1 木糖醇 1 洋翻白草萃取物 0.1 玻尿酸鈉 0.1 2-O-乙基-L-抗壞血酸 0.1 甘草酸二鉀 0.05 肉豆蔻酸異丙酯 5 三(2-乙基己酸)甘油酯 5 癸二酸二異丙酯 5 苯甲酸烷基酯(C12-15) 3 甲基聚矽氧烷 6 環五矽氧烷 6 三矽烷氧基矽酸50%之環五矽氧烷溶液 2 糊精棕櫚酸酯 2 甲氧基桂皮酸2-乙基己酯 5 胡莫柳酯 5 經疏水化處理之微粒子氧化鈦(粒徑：15 nm) 3 經疏水化處理之微粒子氧化鋅(粒徑：15 nm) 3 經疏水化處理之顏料級氧化鈦 3 經疏水化處理之氧化鐵紅 適量 經疏水化處理之氧化鐵黃 適量 經疏水化處理之氧化鐵黑 適量 經疏水化處理之滑石 3 交聯型聚矽氧·網狀型聚矽氧嵌段共聚物(平均粒徑：5 μm) 6 微粒子二甲基矽烷化二氧化矽 0.5 月桂基PEG-9聚二甲基聚矽烷氧基乙基二甲聚矽氧烷 2 二甲基二硬脂基銨鋰膨潤石 1 糊精棕櫚酸酯 0.5 異硬脂酸 0.2 維生素E 0.01 香料 適量
配方例5.W/O型基底化妝料 (成分名) 調配量(質量%) 純化水 剩餘量 乙醇 10 乙二胺四乙酸三鈉 0.1 食鹽 0.1 焦亞硫酸鈉 0.01 甘油 1 木糖醇 1 洋翻白草萃取物 0.1 玻尿酸鈉 0.1 2-O-乙基-L-抗壞血酸 0.1 甘草酸二鉀 0.05 異十二烷 5 癸二酸二異丙酯 8 三(2-乙基己酸)甘油酯 5 肉豆蔻酸異丙酯 5 PBG/PPG-9/1共聚物 2 甲基聚矽氧烷 5 環五矽氧烷 3 辛醯基甲聚矽氧烷 3 高聚合胺基丙基二甲聚矽氧烷20%之二甲聚矽氧烷20 cs溶液 1 三氟烷基二甲基三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸50%二甲聚矽氧烷溶液 3 糊精棕櫚酸酯 2 甲氧基桂皮酸2-乙基己酯 5 二乙胺基羥基苯甲醯基苯甲酸己酯 1 雙乙基己氧基苯酚甲氧基苯基三 0.5 經疏水化處理之微粒子氧化鈦(粒徑：15 nm) 2 經疏水化處理之微粒子氧化鋅(粒徑：15 nm) 5 經疏水化處理之顏料級氧化鈦 5 經疏水化處理之氧化鐵紅 適量 經疏水化處理之氧化鐵黃 適量 經疏水化處理之氧化鐵黑 適量 經疏水化處理之滑石 5 交聯型聚矽氧·網狀型聚矽氧嵌段共聚物(平均粒徑：5 μm) 2 經疏水化處理之滑石 3 PEG-9聚二甲基聚矽烷氧基乙基二甲聚矽氧烷 1.5 PEG/PPG-19/19二甲聚矽氧烷50%之環五矽氧烷溶液 0.5 二甲基二硬脂基銨鋰膨潤石 0.4 異硬脂酸 0.3 維生素E 0.01 香料 適量
配方例6.W/O型毛髮用化妝料 (成分名) 調配量(質量%) 純化水 剩餘量 乙醇 8 乙二胺四乙酸三鈉 0.2 二氧化矽 0.5 甘油 1 聚氧乙烯(14)聚氧丙烯(7)二甲醚 1 狗牙薔薇果實萃取物 0.1 玻尿酸鈉 0.1 2-O-乙基-L-抗壞血酸 0.5 甘草酸二鉀 0.05 異十二烷 10 三(2-乙基己酸)甘油酯 5 肉豆蔻酸異丙酯 5 癸二酸二異丙酯 5 苯甲酸烷基酯(C12-15) 3 PBG/PPG-9/1共聚物 1 甲基聚矽氧烷 10 環五矽氧烷 3 三矽烷氧基矽酸50%之環五矽氧烷溶液 0.5 蔗糖三乙酸酯四硬脂酸酯 1 糊精棕櫚酸酯 2 甲氧基桂皮酸2-乙基己酯 5 二乙胺基羥基苯甲醯基苯甲酸己酯 2 雙乙基己氧基苯酚甲氧基苯基三 1 聚矽氧-15 3 奧克立林 5 交聯型聚矽氧·網狀型聚矽氧嵌段共聚物(平均粒徑：5 μm) 10 經硬脂酸鈣處理之滑石(平均粒徑：7 μm) 3 鯨蠟基PEG/PPG-10/1二甲聚矽氧烷 1 月桂基PEG-9聚二甲基聚矽烷氧基乙基二甲聚矽氧烷 1 二甲基二硬脂基銨鋰膨潤石 0.5 異硬脂酸 0.3 山梨醇酐倍半異硬脂酸酯 0.3 維生素E 0.01 香料 適量
Claims (4)
- 一種油中水型乳化化妝料，其包含： (A)6～40質量%之紫外線吸收劑、 (B)油相增黏劑、及 (C)選自以下(i)～(iii)之一種以上之疏水性粉末： (i)經疏水化處理之滑石、 (ii)平均粒徑為30 μm以上之聚矽氧粉末、 (iii)交聯密度為40%以上之交聯型聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉末，且 不含紫外線散射劑或即便含有亦為6質量%以下。
- 如請求項1之油中水型乳化化妝料，其中(B)油相增黏劑係選自糊精脂肪酸酯、蔗糖脂肪酸酯、脂肪酸或其鹽、植物性氫化油或者固態或半固態之植物油、有機改性黏土礦物、甘油脂肪酸酯、及胺基酸系凝膠化劑之1種或2種以上。
- 如請求項2之油中水型乳化化妝料，其中有機改性黏土礦物為二甲基二硬脂基銨鋰膨潤石。
- 如請求項1至3中任一項之油中水型乳化化妝料，其中(C)疏水性粉末為經疏水化處理之滑石。
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